The last time I did this I burned up my circular saw, or more
specifically, the brushes. I cut four doors that day, in fairly quick
succession. I'm no genius with a circular saw, but I thought I had done
it right. I used a fence as a guide and set the blade to protrude maybe
a half-inch below the bottom of the door. I tried not to go too fast.
This was a year ago, by the way.

I've since replaced the brushes and the saw works fine. It's a
pedestrian Skil model and has a fairly coarse 7-1/4" blade on it. I've
also got a much older saw with a 6-1/2" 40 tooth blade. I have another
brand-new HD solid-core door to cut down. It's the thinner variety that
they sell, 1-1/4"?

Tips, besides having an extra set of brushes around? Something to coat
the blade with to reduce friction, maybe? Cutting half the depth first?
(That doesn't sound like a good idea to me, but if you're too afraid to
ask, you don't learn)

On 9/28/2011 12:14 PM, Greg Guarino wrote:
The last time I did this I burned up my circular saw, or more
specifically, the brushes. I cut four doors that day, in fairly quick
succession. I'm no genius with a circular saw, but I thought I had done
it right. I used a fence as a guide and set the blade to protrude maybe
a half-inch below the bottom of the door. I tried not to go too fast.
This was a year ago, by the way.

I've since replaced the brushes and the saw works fine. It's a
pedestrian Skil model and has a fairly coarse 7-1/4" blade on it. I've
also got a much older saw with a 6-1/2" 40 tooth blade. I have another
brand-new HD solid-core door to cut down. It's the thinner variety that
they sell, 1-1/4"?

Tips, besides having an extra set of brushes around? Something to coat
the blade with to reduce friction, maybe? Cutting half the depth first?
(That doesn't sound like a good idea to me, but if you're too afraid to
ask, you don't learn)

I'd venture the brushes failing at that time had nothing in common w/
the fact that it was the door(s) being cut; it was just there time in
all likelihood.

No surprising tips other than to be sure the blade isn't _terribly_ dull
and is intended for the general purpose--iow, don't use a plywood or
no-set finish blade...

--

On 9/28/2011 12:18 PM, dpb wrote:
....

I'd venture the brushes failing at that time had nothing in common w/
the fact that it was the door(s) being cut; it was just there time in
....

....it was just THEIR time...

--

dpb wrote:
On 9/28/2011 12:18 PM, dpb wrote:
...

I'd venture the brushes failing at that time had nothing in common w/
the fact that it was the door(s) being cut; it was just there time in
...

...it was just THEIR time...

--


whose time? ; )

On 9/28/2011 1:25 PM, dpb wrote:
On 9/28/2011 12:18 PM, dpb wrote:
...

I'd venture the brushes failing at that time had nothing in common w/
the fact that it was the door(s) being cut; it was just there time in
...

...it was just THEIR time...

That makes sense, except that the saw has gotten pretty light use over
the years. Maybe it was a grammar problem ...

Any thoughts on which blade/saw combo would be better?

On Wed, 28 Sep 2011 13:32:50 -0400, Greg Guarino wrote:

On 9/28/2011 1:25 PM, dpb wrote:
On 9/28/2011 12:18 PM, dpb wrote:
...

I'd venture the brushes failing at that time had nothing in common w/
the fact that it was the door(s) being cut; it was just there time in
...

...it was just THEIR time...

That makes sense, except that the saw has gotten pretty light use over
the years. Maybe it was a grammar problem ...

Could be some corrosion on the commutator that took them out. The other
thought is to make sure that the shoe is parallel to the blade. It may have
gotten whacked somewhere along the line.

Any thoughts on which blade/saw combo would be better?

For a general purpose circular saw blade, I've liked the narrow kerf Diablo
blades. That's pretty much all I used in the cordless saw. For a saw, well,
Festool! (somebody had to say it ;-)

Greg Guarino wrote:

Any thoughts on which blade/saw combo would be better?

The coarse one.

--

dadiOH
____________________________

dadiOH's dandies v3.06...
....a help file of info about MP3s, recording from
LP/cassette and tips & tricks on this and that.
Get it at http://mysite.verizon.net/xico

On 9/28/2011 12:32 PM, Greg Guarino wrote:
On 9/28/2011 1:25 PM, dpb wrote:
On 9/28/2011 12:18 PM, dpb wrote:
...

I'd venture the brushes failing at that time had nothing in common w/
the fact that it was the door(s) being cut; it was just there time in
...

...it was just THEIR time...

That makes sense, except that the saw has gotten pretty light use over
the years. Maybe it was a grammar problem ...

Any thoughts on which blade/saw combo would be better?

Is this a composite solid-core (from the particle-wood tree, etc., ...
) or a solid-wood door?

--

On 9/28/2011 2:49 PM, dpb wrote:
On 9/28/2011 12:32 PM, Greg Guarino wrote:
On 9/28/2011 1:25 PM, dpb wrote:
On 9/28/2011 12:18 PM, dpb wrote:
...

I'd venture the brushes failing at that time had nothing in common w/
the fact that it was the door(s) being cut; it was just there time in
...

...it was just THEIR time...

That makes sense, except that the saw has gotten pretty light use over
the years. Maybe it was a grammar problem ...

Any thoughts on which blade/saw combo would be better?

Is this a composite solid-core (from the particle-wood tree, etc., ...
) or a solid-wood door?

In this case, it's the standard HD article, so more likely the former.

On 9/28/11 2:05 PM, Greg Guarino wrote:
On 9/28/2011 2:49 PM, dpb wrote:
On 9/28/2011 12:32 PM, Greg Guarino wrote:
On 9/28/2011 1:25 PM, dpb wrote:
On 9/28/2011 12:18 PM, dpb wrote:
...

I'd venture the brushes failing at that time had nothing in common w/
the fact that it was the door(s) being cut; it was just there time in
...

...it was just THEIR time...

That makes sense, except that the saw has gotten pretty light use over
the years. Maybe it was a grammar problem ...

Any thoughts on which blade/saw combo would be better?

Is this a composite solid-core (from the particle-wood tree, etc., ...
) or a solid-wood door?

In this case, it's the standard HD article, so more likely the former.


It shouldn't matter. Even Masonite, veneered doors often have a pine
frame around the perimeter. But back to my first point, it shouldn't
matter. The door had nothing to do with it.

Either the saw is really underpowered for whatever reason. or your blade
was really dull. Any carbide tooth blade in a decent saw would cut
through a solid door with minimal effort, whether it's cutting solid
wood, or termite vomit.


--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com

---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply

On Sep 28, 1:14*pm, Greg Guarino wrote:
The last time I did this I burned up my circular saw, or more
specifically, the brushes. I cut four doors that day, in fairly quick
succession. I'm no genius with a circular saw, but I thought I had done
it right. I used a fence as a guide and set the blade to protrude maybe
a half-inch below the bottom of the door. I tried not to go too fast.
This was a year ago, by the way.

I've since replaced the brushes and the saw works fine. It's a
pedestrian Skil model and has a fairly coarse 7-1/4" blade on it. I've
also got a much older saw with a 6-1/2" 40 tooth blade. I have another
brand-new HD solid-core door to cut down. It's the thinner variety that
they sell, 1-1/4"?

Tips, besides having an extra set of brushes around? Something to coat
the blade with to reduce friction, maybe? Cutting half the depth first?
(That doesn't sound like a good idea to me, but if you're too afraid to
ask, you don't learn)

Set the blade to full depth. Runs cooler with less strain
on the motor. You don't gain any safety advantage by
setting a portable saw light, since your fingers are
well-shielded by a 2" thick slab of wood.

On 9/28/11 2:51 PM, Father Haskell wrote:
Set the blade to full depth. Runs cooler with less strain
on the motor.

How is that?


--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com

---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply

On Sep 28, 4:09*pm, -MIKE- wrote:
On 9/28/11 2:51 PM, Father Haskell wrote:

Set the blade to full depth. *Runs cooler with less strain
on the motor.

How is that?

Shorter path through the wood. Easier for the gullets
to eject chips.

On 9/28/2011 2:26 PM, -MIKE- wrote:
On 9/28/11 2:05 PM, Greg Guarino wrote:
On 9/28/2011 2:49 PM, dpb wrote:
On 9/28/2011 12:32 PM, Greg Guarino wrote:
On 9/28/2011 1:25 PM, dpb wrote:
On 9/28/2011 12:18 PM, dpb wrote:
...

I'd venture the brushes failing at that time had nothing in common w/
the fact that it was the door(s) being cut; it was just there time in
...

...it was just THEIR time...

That makes sense, except that the saw has gotten pretty light use over
the years. Maybe it was a grammar problem ...

Any thoughts on which blade/saw combo would be better?

Is this a composite solid-core (from the particle-wood tree, etc., ...
) or a solid-wood door?

In this case, it's the standard HD article, so more likely the former.


It shouldn't matter. Even Masonite, veneered doors often have a pine
frame around the perimeter. But back to my first point, it shouldn't
matter. The door had nothing to do with it.

Either the saw is really underpowered for whatever reason. or your blade
was really dull. Any carbide tooth blade in a decent saw would cut
through a solid door with minimal effort, whether it's cutting solid
wood, or termite vomit.

I wasn't asking for that reason but for consideration of finish...

A combination 24T will do reasonably well. If it is veneered you'll
have better luck minimizing splinter/tearout in the surface if you score
the line w/ a sharp knife first. Also, covering the cut area w/ a layer
of masking or painters tape serves to help minimize that as well as
provides a protection against marring a finished surface w/ the
baseplate of the saw.

--

On 9/28/2011 5:02 PM, dpb wrote:
On 9/28/2011 2:26 PM, -MIKE- wrote:
On 9/28/11 2:05 PM, Greg Guarino wrote:
On 9/28/2011 2:49 PM, dpb wrote:
On 9/28/2011 12:32 PM, Greg Guarino wrote:
On 9/28/2011 1:25 PM, dpb wrote:
On 9/28/2011 12:18 PM, dpb wrote:
...

I'd venture the brushes failing at that time had nothing in
common w/
the fact that it was the door(s) being cut; it was just there
time in
...

...it was just THEIR time...

That makes sense, except that the saw has gotten pretty light use over
the years. Maybe it was a grammar problem ...

Any thoughts on which blade/saw combo would be better?

Is this a composite solid-core (from the particle-wood tree, etc., ...
) or a solid-wood door?

In this case, it's the standard HD article, so more likely the former.


It shouldn't matter. Even Masonite, veneered doors often have a pine
frame around the perimeter. But back to my first point, it shouldn't
matter. The door had nothing to do with it.

Either the saw is really underpowered for whatever reason. or your blade
was really dull. Any carbide tooth blade in a decent saw would cut
through a solid door with minimal effort, whether it's cutting solid
wood, or termite vomit.

I wasn't asking for that reason but for consideration of finish...

A combination 24T will do reasonably well. If it is veneered you'll have
better luck minimizing splinter/tearout in the surface if you score the
line w/ a sharp knife first. Also, covering the cut area w/ a layer of
masking or painters tape serves to help minimize that as well as
provides a protection against marring a finished surface w/ the
baseplate of the saw.

--
Thanks. I used a knife and tape (and cut with the more important side of
the doors "down) the last time I did it. I plan to again.

Even though the saw had not been in any way over-used over it's
lifetime, I also suspected that the brushes may have been ready to fail.
But I've found that when I ask a question here, I frequently get good
advice from directions that I hadn't anticipated.

On 9/28/11 4:02 PM, dpb wrote:
A combination 24T will do reasonably well. If it is veneered you'll have
better luck minimizing splinter/tearout in the surface if you score the
line w/ a sharp knife first. Also, covering the cut area w/ a layer of
masking or painters tape serves to help minimize that as well as
provides a protection against marring a finished surface w/ the
baseplate of the saw.


I've also applied a sacrificial base plate for a circular saw. This
protects the door from scuffs and it keeps the upper side of the veneer
from splintering.

1/8" to 1/4" Hardboard works great because of the smooth face. Carpet
tape works great for sticking the hardboard to the base plate of the
saw. Tape the hardboard on with the blade all the way up, then turn on
the saw and drop the blade into the hardboard. If you saw won't
completely hide the blade, use a smaller diameter blade with the same kerf.


--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com

---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply

On Sep 28, 4:10*pm, Father Haskell wrote:
On Sep 28, 4:09*pm, -MIKE- wrote:

On 9/28/11 2:51 PM, Father Haskell wrote:

Set the blade to full depth. *Runs cooler with less strain
on the motor.

How is that?

Shorter path through the wood. *Easier for the gullets
to eject chips.

Makes sense to me.

On 9/28/11 5:17 PM, Robatoy wrote:
On Sep 28, 4:10 pm, Father wrote:
On Sep 28, 4:09 pm, wrote:

On 9/28/11 2:51 PM, Father Haskell wrote:

Set the blade to full depth. Runs cooler with less strain
on the motor.

How is that?

Shorter path through the wood. Easier for the gullets
to eject chips.

Makes sense to me.

It does, but it's also a moot point with a decent saw and blade.


--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com

---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply

On Wed, 28 Sep 2011 17:19:50 -0400, Greg Guarino
wrote:

On 9/28/2011 5:02 PM, dpb wrote:
On 9/28/2011 2:26 PM, -MIKE- wrote:
On 9/28/11 2:05 PM, Greg Guarino wrote:
On 9/28/2011 2:49 PM, dpb wrote:
On 9/28/2011 12:32 PM, Greg Guarino wrote:
On 9/28/2011 1:25 PM, dpb wrote:
On 9/28/2011 12:18 PM, dpb wrote:
...

I'd venture the brushes failing at that time had nothing in
common w/
the fact that it was the door(s) being cut; it was just there
time in
...

...it was just THEIR time...

That makes sense, except that the saw has gotten pretty light use over
the years. Maybe it was a grammar problem ...

Any thoughts on which blade/saw combo would be better?

Is this a composite solid-core (from the particle-wood tree, etc., ...
) or a solid-wood door?

In this case, it's the standard HD article, so more likely the former.


It shouldn't matter. Even Masonite, veneered doors often have a pine
frame around the perimeter. But back to my first point, it shouldn't
matter. The door had nothing to do with it.

Either the saw is really underpowered for whatever reason. or your blade
was really dull. Any carbide tooth blade in a decent saw would cut
through a solid door with minimal effort, whether it's cutting solid
wood, or termite vomit.

I wasn't asking for that reason but for consideration of finish...

A combination 24T will do reasonably well. If it is veneered you'll have
better luck minimizing splinter/tearout in the surface if you score the
line w/ a sharp knife first. Also, covering the cut area w/ a layer of
masking or painters tape serves to help minimize that as well as
provides a protection against marring a finished surface w/ the
baseplate of the saw.

--
Thanks. I used a knife and tape (and cut with the more important side of
the doors "down) the last time I did it. I plan to again.

Even though the saw had not been in any way over-used over it's
lifetime, I also suspected that the brushes may have been ready to fail.
But I've found that when I ask a question here, I frequently get good
advice from directions that I hadn't anticipated.

Use a guide rail for the cut. Any wandering will be eliminated so the
blade should stay at full speed all the way.

Tape, knife, guide, new blade, and an easy push on the saw should add
up to giving you a quick and easy door trimming, Greg.

--
Live in the sunshine, swim the sea, drink the wild air…
-- Ralph Waldo Emerson

On Wed, 28 Sep 2011 12:51:21 -0700 (PDT), Father Haskell
wrote:

On Sep 28, 1:14*pm, Greg Guarino wrote:
The last time I did this I burned up my circular saw, or more
specifically, the brushes. I cut four doors that day, in fairly quick
succession. I'm no genius with a circular saw, but I thought I had done
it right. I used a fence as a guide and set the blade to protrude maybe
a half-inch below the bottom of the door. I tried not to go too fast.
This was a year ago, by the way.

I've since replaced the brushes and the saw works fine. It's a
pedestrian Skil model and has a fairly coarse 7-1/4" blade on it. I've
also got a much older saw with a 6-1/2" 40 tooth blade. I have another
brand-new HD solid-core door to cut down. It's the thinner variety that
they sell, 1-1/4"?

Tips, besides having an extra set of brushes around? Something to coat
the blade with to reduce friction, maybe? Cutting half the depth first?
(That doesn't sound like a good idea to me, but if you're too afraid to
ask, you don't learn)

Set the blade to full depth. Runs cooler with less strain
on the motor.

Agreed!


You don't gain any safety advantage by
setting a portable saw light, since your fingers are
well-shielded by a 2" thick slab of wood.

Um, one shouldn't have their fingers anywhere -near- the saw blade
while it is cutting, Dad. Besides, your suggestion there just put
someone at risk of a multiple severing of fingers. Smooth!

--
Live in the sunshine, swim the sea, drink the wild air…
-- Ralph Waldo Emerson

On Wed, 28 Sep 2011 17:19:59 -0500, -MIKE- wrote:

On 9/28/11 5:17 PM, Robatoy wrote:
On Sep 28, 4:10 pm, Father wrote:
On Sep 28, 4:09 pm, wrote:

On 9/28/11 2:51 PM, Father Haskell wrote:

Set the blade to full depth. Runs cooler with less strain
on the motor.

How is that?

Shorter path through the wood. Easier for the gullets
to eject chips.

Makes sense to me.

It does, but it's also a moot point with a decent saw and blade.

Should get a cleaner cut with the depth set to minimum, too.

On Wed, 28 Sep 2011 14:26:18 -0500, -MIKE-
wrote:

On 9/28/11 2:05 PM, Greg Guarino wrote:
On 9/28/2011 2:49 PM, dpb wrote:
On 9/28/2011 12:32 PM, Greg Guarino wrote:
On 9/28/2011 1:25 PM, dpb wrote:
On 9/28/2011 12:18 PM, dpb wrote:
...

I'd venture the brushes failing at that time had nothing in common w/
the fact that it was the door(s) being cut; it was just there time in
...

...it was just THEIR time...

That makes sense, except that the saw has gotten pretty light use over
the years. Maybe it was a grammar problem ...

Any thoughts on which blade/saw combo would be better?

Is this a composite solid-core (from the particle-wood tree, etc., ...
) or a solid-wood door?

In this case, it's the standard HD article, so more likely the former.


It shouldn't matter. Even Masonite, veneered doors often have a pine
frame around the perimeter. But back to my first point, it shouldn't
matter. The door had nothing to do with it.

Either the saw is really underpowered for whatever reason. or your blade
was really dull. Any carbide tooth blade in a decent saw would cut
through a solid door with minimal effort, whether it's cutting solid
wood, or termite vomit.
But the blade needs to be CLEAN. A pitch-encrusted blade takes more
than twice the power a clean blade takes - particularly in petrified
saw-dust. A good shot with something like "brake kleen" will disolve
the crud very quickly and you won't believe the difference in the cut.

On Wed, 28 Sep 2011 19:25:56 +0000 (UTC), (Edward A.
Falk) wrote:

In article , dpb wrote:

I'd venture the brushes failing at that time had nothing in common w/
the fact that it was the door(s) being cut; it was just there time in
all likelihood.

I'm inclined to agree. I don't see how overloading a motor would cause
the brushes to fail, unless perhaps due to a heavier-than-normal arc
causing excess erosion. I'd think that overloading the motor would be
more likely to burn out windings.

Besides, if the brushes failed, aren't they easily replaceable?
If the brushes get hot enough the brush springs loose tension - then
the brushes arc - which makes them run hotter - and the cycle repeats
itself.

On Wed, 28 Sep 2011 12:51:21 -0700 (PDT), Father Haskell
wrote:

On Sep 28, 1:14Â*pm, Greg Guarino wrote:
The last time I did this I burned up my circular saw, or more
specifically, the brushes. I cut four doors that day, in fairly quick
succession. I'm no genius with a circular saw, but I thought I had done
it right. I used a fence as a guide and set the blade to protrude maybe
a half-inch below the bottom of the door. I tried not to go too fast.
This was a year ago, by the way.

I've since replaced the brushes and the saw works fine. It's a
pedestrian Skil model and has a fairly coarse 7-1/4" blade on it. I've
also got a much older saw with a 6-1/2" 40 tooth blade. I have another
brand-new HD solid-core door to cut down. It's the thinner variety that
they sell, 1-1/4"?

Tips, besides having an extra set of brushes around? Something to coat
the blade with to reduce friction, maybe? Cutting half the depth first?
(That doesn't sound like a good idea to me, but if you're too afraid to
ask, you don't learn)

Set the blade to full depth. Runs cooler with less strain
on the motor. You don't gain any safety advantage by
setting a portable saw light, since your fingers are
well-shielded by a 2" thick slab of wood.
Correct - full depth cut causes the shortest tooth path through the
wood - meaning the least wasted power.

On Sep 28, 7:40*pm, wrote:
On Wed, 28 Sep 2011 12:51:21 -0700 (PDT), Father Haskell









wrote:
On Sep 28, 1:14*pm, Greg Guarino wrote:
The last time I did this I burned up my circular saw, or more
specifically, the brushes. I cut four doors that day, in fairly quick
succession. I'm no genius with a circular saw, but I thought I had done
it right. I used a fence as a guide and set the blade to protrude maybe
a half-inch below the bottom of the door. I tried not to go too fast.
This was a year ago, by the way.

I've since replaced the brushes and the saw works fine. It's a
pedestrian Skil model and has a fairly coarse 7-1/4" blade on it. I've
also got a much older saw with a 6-1/2" 40 tooth blade. I have another
brand-new HD solid-core door to cut down. It's the thinner variety that
they sell, 1-1/4"?

Tips, besides having an extra set of brushes around? Something to coat
the blade with to reduce friction, maybe? Cutting half the depth first?
(That doesn't sound like a good idea to me, but if you're too afraid to
ask, you don't learn)

Set the blade to full depth. *Runs cooler with less strain
on the motor. *You don't gain any safety advantage by
setting a portable saw light, since your fingers are
well-shielded by a 2" thick slab of wood.

*Correct - full depth cut causes the shortest tooth path through the
wood - meaning the least wasted power.

Right. Only reason a table saw blade is set to cut low
is to limit how deep a dado it can cut through your hand.

On 9/28/2011 6:33 PM, Larry Jaques wrote:
Use a guide rail for the cut.

Always.

On 9/28/11 8:22 PM, Father Haskell wrote:
On Sep 28, 7:40 pm, wrote:
On Wed, 28 Sep 2011 12:51:21 -0700 (PDT), Father Haskell









wrote:
On Sep 28, 1:14 pm, Greg wrote:
The last time I did this I burned up my circular saw, or more
specifically, the brushes. I cut four doors that day, in fairly quick
succession. I'm no genius with a circular saw, but I thought I had done
it right. I used a fence as a guide and set the blade to protrude maybe
a half-inch below the bottom of the door. I tried not to go too fast.
This was a year ago, by the way.

I've since replaced the brushes and the saw works fine. It's a
pedestrian Skil model and has a fairly coarse 7-1/4" blade on it. I've
also got a much older saw with a 6-1/2" 40 tooth blade. I have another
brand-new HD solid-core door to cut down. It's the thinner variety that
they sell, 1-1/4"?

Tips, besides having an extra set of brushes around? Something to coat
the blade with to reduce friction, maybe? Cutting half the depth first?
(That doesn't sound like a good idea to me, but if you're too afraid to
ask, you don't learn)

Set the blade to full depth. Runs cooler with less strain
on the motor. You don't gain any safety advantage by
setting a portable saw light, since your fingers are
well-shielded by a 2" thick slab of wood.

Correct - full depth cut causes the shortest tooth path through the
wood - meaning the least wasted power.

Right. Only reason a table saw blade is set to cut low
is to limit how deep a dado it can cut through your hand.

Well... there's always the fact that you might not want to cut all the
way through your saw horses or have to set your plywood up on the edges
of 2x4's to keep from cutting though your workbench or concrete floor.

In any case, I still contend it's a moot point. If you're blade is
running too hot or your saw is bogging down, it's time for a new saw
and/or blade.


--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com

---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply

On 9/28/11 9:42 PM, Greg Guarino wrote:
On 9/28/2011 6:33 PM, Larry Jaques wrote:
Use a guide rail for the cut.

Always.

I've but them with the little rip fence that attaches to my circ saw
with perfect results.


--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com

---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply

On Wed, 28 Sep 2011 19:37:22 -0400, wrote:

But the blade needs to be CLEAN. A pitch-encrusted blade takes more
than twice the power a clean blade takes - particularly in petrified
saw-dust. A good shot with something like "brake kleen" will disolve
the crud very quickly and you won't believe the difference in the cut.

Safer, and usually also handy, is SimpleGreen. Soak the blade in it
for 15-30 minutes, rinse (the pine tar falls off), and reinstall. Save
the soak for a dozen or more blades. It lasts when bottled. I use a
regular old pie tin for holding the solution.

--
Live in the sunshine, swim the sea, drink the wild air…
-- Ralph Waldo Emerson

On Wed, 28 Sep 2011 15:17:56 -0700 (PDT), Robatoy
wrote:

On Sep 28, 4:10*pm, Father Haskell wrote:
On Sep 28, 4:09*pm, -MIKE- wrote:

On 9/28/11 2:51 PM, Father Haskell wrote:

Set the blade to full depth. *Runs cooler with less strain
on the motor.

How is that?

Shorter path through the wood. *Easier for the gullets
to eject chips.

Makes sense to me.

Eez true, too, mi compadre.

--
Live in the sunshine, swim the sea, drink the wild air…
-- Ralph Waldo Emerson

On 9/28/2011 2:51 PM, Father Haskell wrote:
On Sep 28, 1:14 pm, Greg wrote:
The last time I did this I burned up my circular saw, or more
specifically, the brushes. I cut four doors that day, in fairly quick
succession. I'm no genius with a circular saw, but I thought I had done
it right. I used a fence as a guide and set the blade to protrude maybe
a half-inch below the bottom of the door. I tried not to go too fast.
This was a year ago, by the way.

I've since replaced the brushes and the saw works fine. It's a
pedestrian Skil model and has a fairly coarse 7-1/4" blade on it. I've
also got a much older saw with a 6-1/2" 40 tooth blade. I have another
brand-new HD solid-core door to cut down. It's the thinner variety that
they sell, 1-1/4"?

Tips, besides having an extra set of brushes around? Something to coat
the blade with to reduce friction, maybe? Cutting half the depth first?
(That doesn't sound like a good idea to me, but if you're too afraid to
ask, you don't learn)

Set the blade to full depth. Runs cooler with less strain
on the motor. You don't gain any safety advantage by
setting a portable saw light, since your fingers are
well-shielded by a 2" thick slab of wood.

but you might cut the saw horse in two....


--
Steve Barker
remove the "not" from my address to email

On 9/28/2011 3:09 PM, -MIKE- wrote:
On 9/28/11 2:51 PM, Father Haskell wrote:
Set the blade to full depth. Runs cooler with less strain
on the motor.

How is that?



less cut being made at a time.

if you have the blade just *barely* through a inch and a half piece,
then you have almost four inches of cut being made. if you have it at
full depth, you are almost straight up and down with the cut and only
making 1- 1/2" at at time.

--
Steve Barker
remove the "not" from my address to email

On 9/28/2011 10:14 PM, Larry Jaques wrote:
On Wed, 28 Sep 2011 19:37:22 -0400, wrote:

But the blade needs to be CLEAN. A pitch-encrusted blade takes more
than twice the power a clean blade takes - particularly in petrified
saw-dust. A good shot with something like "brake kleen" will disolve
the crud very quickly and you won't believe the difference in the cut.

Safer, and usually also handy, is SimpleGreen. Soak the blade in it
for 15-30 minutes, rinse (the pine tar falls off), and reinstall. Save
the soak for a dozen or more blades. It lasts when bottled. I use a
regular old pie tin for holding the solution.

--
Live in the sunshine, swim the sea, drink the wild air…
-- Ralph Waldo Emerson


nothing unsafe about brakleen, but it won't cut pitch like carb cleaner
will.


--
Steve Barker
remove the "not" from my address to email

On Wed, 28 Sep 2011 22:22:15 -0500, Steve Barker
wrote:

On 9/28/2011 10:14 PM, Larry Jaques wrote:
On Wed, 28 Sep 2011 19:37:22 -0400, wrote:

But the blade needs to be CLEAN. A pitch-encrusted blade takes more
than twice the power a clean blade takes - particularly in petrified
saw-dust. A good shot with something like "brake kleen" will disolve
the crud very quickly and you won't believe the difference in the cut.

Safer, and usually also handy, is SimpleGreen. Soak the blade in it
for 15-30 minutes, rinse (the pine tar falls off), and reinstall. Save
the soak for a dozen or more blades. It lasts when bottled. I use a
regular old pie tin for holding the solution.

nothing unsafe about brakleen, but it won't cut pitch like carb cleaner
will.

Brakleen works great on carbs, too, both for starting and cleaning the
exterior, if you're unlucky enough to still be stuck with one.

I don't particularly like breathing all those VOCs, and you have to
use a bit of caution with any flame near its use, and you don't want
to spray/drip onto any painted surfaces with it. I only use it
outside on windy days. g

SimpleGreen is much easier.

So, -yeah-, Brakleen has safety concerns...if you're awake enough.

--
Live in the sunshine, swim the sea, drink the wild air…
-- Ralph Waldo Emerson

On Wed, 28 Sep 2011 22:18:11 -0500, Steve Barker
wrote:

On 9/28/2011 2:51 PM, Father Haskell wrote:
On Sep 28, 1:14 pm, Greg wrote:
The last time I did this I burned up my circular saw, or more
specifically, the brushes. I cut four doors that day, in fairly quick
succession. I'm no genius with a circular saw, but I thought I had done
it right. I used a fence as a guide and set the blade to protrude maybe
a half-inch below the bottom of the door. I tried not to go too fast.
This was a year ago, by the way.

I've since replaced the brushes and the saw works fine. It's a
pedestrian Skil model and has a fairly coarse 7-1/4" blade on it. I've
also got a much older saw with a 6-1/2" 40 tooth blade. I have another
brand-new HD solid-core door to cut down. It's the thinner variety that
they sell, 1-1/4"?

Tips, besides having an extra set of brushes around? Something to coat
the blade with to reduce friction, maybe? Cutting half the depth first?
(That doesn't sound like a good idea to me, but if you're too afraid to
ask, you don't learn)

Set the blade to full depth. Runs cooler with less strain
on the motor. You don't gain any safety advantage by
setting a portable saw light, since your fingers are
well-shielded by a 2" thick slab of wood.

but you might cut the saw horse in two....

Or your work mutt. (Hi, O'Deen!)

--
Live in the sunshine, swim the sea, drink the wild air…
-- Ralph Waldo Emerson

On 9/28/11 10:20 PM, Steve Barker wrote:
On 9/28/2011 3:09 PM, -MIKE- wrote:
On 9/28/11 2:51 PM, Father Haskell wrote:
Set the blade to full depth. Runs cooler with less strain
on the motor.

How is that?



less cut being made at a time.

if you have the blade just *barely* through a inch and a half piece,
then you have almost four inches of cut being made. if you have it at
full depth, you are almost straight up and down with the cut and only
making 1- 1/2" at at time.


Like I've been saying, if you have to worry about heat or bogging down,
you need a new saw and/or blade.
There are other, better, reasons to keep the saw blade up.


--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com

---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply

"Greg Guarino" wrote in message ...

On 9/28/2011 6:33 PM, Larry Jaques wrote:
Use a guide rail for the cut.

Always.
-------------------------------------------
Not necessary, if you have good circular saw skills.

I score both sides of the door, and stay about a 32nd back from the score
mark. No problems.

-- Jim in NC

On 9/29/2011 3:03 AM, Morgans wrote:
"Greg Guarino" wrote in message ...

On 9/28/2011 6:33 PM, Larry Jaques wrote:
Use a guide rail for the cut.

Always.
-------------------------------------------
Not necessary, if you have good circular saw skills.

Exactly why I use the guide rail.

But seriously, I've got an aluminum guide for just that purpose which
doesn't weigh any more than the straight edge a better craftsman would
need to make the pencil line. Two spring clamps and voila, perfect cut.

On Sep 28, 11:39*pm, -MIKE- wrote:
On 9/28/11 10:20 PM, Steve Barker wrote:









On 9/28/2011 3:09 PM, -MIKE- wrote:
On 9/28/11 2:51 PM, Father Haskell wrote:
Set the blade to full depth. Runs cooler with less strain
on the motor.

How is that?

less cut being made at a time.

if you have the blade just *barely* through a inch and a half piece,
then you have almost four inches of cut being made. if you have it at
full depth, you are almost straight up and down with the cut and only
making 1- 1/2" at at time.

Like I've been saying, if you have to worry about heat or bogging down,
you need a new saw and/or blade.
There are other, better, reasons to keep the saw blade up.


My saw has a variable mootness adjustment.

Second that!

Try one and you'll never go back

--------------
wrote in message ...
For a general purpose circular saw blade, I've liked the narrow kerf
Diablo
blades.