On Thu, 29 Sep 2011 07:27:26 -0400, Greg Guarino
wrote:

On 9/29/2011 3:03 AM, Morgans wrote:
"Greg Guarino" wrote in message ...

On 9/28/2011 6:33 PM, Larry Jaques wrote:
Use a guide rail for the cut.

Always.
-------------------------------------------
Not necessary, if you have good circular saw skills.

Exactly why I use the guide rail.

But seriously, I've got an aluminum guide for just that purpose which
doesn't weigh any more than the straight edge a better craftsman would
need to make the pencil line. Two spring clamps and voila, perfect cut.

I've seen doors cut freehand and know better than to ever try it
(again) myself. DAMHIKT, but the others I've seen were much worse.

--
Live in the sunshine, swim the sea, drink the wild air…
-- Ralph Waldo Emerson

On Thu, 29 Sep 2011 05:58:10 -0700 (PDT), Robatoy
wrote:

On Sep 28, 11:39*pm, -MIKE- wrote:
On 9/28/11 10:20 PM, Steve Barker wrote:

On 9/28/2011 3:09 PM, -MIKE- wrote:
On 9/28/11 2:51 PM, Father Haskell wrote:
Set the blade to full depth. Runs cooler with less strain
on the motor.

How is that?

less cut being made at a time.

if you have the blade just *barely* through a inch and a half piece,
then you have almost four inches of cut being made. if you have it at
full depth, you are almost straight up and down with the cut and only
making 1- 1/2" at at time.

Like I've been saying, if you have to worry about heat or bogging down,
you need a new saw and/or blade.
There are other, better, reasons to keep the saw blade up.


My saw has a variable mootness adjustment.

AND a built-in guide.

LJ--I'm gettin' itchier.

--
Live in the sunshine, swim the sea, drink the wild air…
-- Ralph Waldo Emerson

On 9/28/2011 12:14 PM, Greg Guarino wrote:
The last time I did this I burned up my circular saw, or more
specifically, the brushes. I cut four doors that day, in fairly quick
succession. I'm no genius with a circular saw, but I thought I had done
it right. I used a fence as a guide and set the blade to protrude maybe
a half-inch below the bottom of the door. I tried not to go too fast.
This was a year ago, by the way.

I've since replaced the brushes and the saw works fine. It's a
pedestrian Skil model and has a fairly coarse 7-1/4" blade on it. I've
also got a much older saw with a 6-1/2" 40 tooth blade. I have another
brand-new HD solid-core door to cut down. It's the thinner variety that
they sell, 1-1/4"?

Tips, besides having an extra set of brushes around? Something to coat
the blade with to reduce friction, maybe? Cutting half the depth first?
(That doesn't sound like a good idea to me, but if you're too afraid to
ask, you don't learn)

Now that all the suggestions are in, I'll add the one that will really
work, although might be out side of your budget.

http://www.festoolusa.com/products/p...aw-561438.html

On Thu, 29 Sep 2011 08:50:52 -0500, Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet
wrote:
Now that all the suggestions are in, I'll add the one that will really
work, although might be out side of your budget.
http://www.festoolusa.com/products/p...aw-561438.html

KNEW that was coming!

On 9/29/2011 9:34 AM, Dave wrote:
On Thu, 29 Sep 2011 08:50:52 -0500, Leonlcb11211@swbelldotnet
wrote:
Now that all the suggestions are in, I'll add the one that will really
work, although might be out side of your budget.
http://www.festoolusa.com/products/p...aw-561438.html

KNEW that was coming!

;!)

On 9/29/11 6:27 AM, Greg Guarino wrote:
On 9/29/2011 3:03 AM, Morgans wrote:
"Greg Guarino" wrote in message ...

On 9/28/2011 6:33 PM, Larry Jaques wrote:
Use a guide rail for the cut.

Always.
-------------------------------------------
Not necessary, if you have good circular saw skills.

Exactly why I use the guide rail.

But seriously, I've got an aluminum guide for just that purpose which
doesn't weigh any more than the straight edge a better craftsman would
need to make the pencil line. Two spring clamps and voila, perfect cut.

Lots of things aren't "necessary" but we still use them.
Especially when we're talking about having one chance to make a perfect
cut on an expensive door.


--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com

---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply

On 9/29/11 7:58 AM, Robatoy wrote:

My saw has a variable mootness adjustment.


"Like"


--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com

---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply

On 9/28/2011 3:51 PM, Father Haskell wrote:

Set the blade to full depth. Runs cooler with less strain
on the motor. You don't gain any safety advantage by
setting a portable saw light, since your fingers are
well-shielded by a 2" thick slab of wood.

I seem to remember being taught to have the blade protrude only a
half-inch or so. It might have been shop class, or maybe my Dad, but
either way it would have been in the Seventies. I don't specifically
remember it being a safety tip.

It seems undeniable that the blade would contact less of the work if it
is used at full depth, especially with a thick piece of wood, and thus
present less of a strain to the motor. But are there any consequences
for the cut itself? It seems to me that the teeth would cut through the
top surface of the wood nearly vertically. Would that not tend to chip
it more than if the angle had been smaller?

On 9/29/11 2:12 PM, Greg Guarino wrote:
On 9/28/2011 3:51 PM, Father Haskell wrote:

Set the blade to full depth. Runs cooler with less strain on the
motor. You don't gain any safety advantage by setting a portable
saw light, since your fingers are well-shielded by a 2" thick slab
of wood.

I seem to remember being taught to have the blade protrude only a
half-inch or so. It might have been shop class, or maybe my Dad, but
either way it would have been in the Seventies. I don't specifically
remember it being a safety tip.

It seems undeniable that the blade would contact less of the work if
it is used at full depth, especially with a thick piece of wood, and
thus present less of a strain to the motor. But are there any
consequences for the cut itself? It seems to me that the teeth would
cut through the top surface of the wood nearly vertically. Would that
not tend to chip it more than if the angle had been smaller?


Seems to me I would want as many teeth as possible in contact with the
cutting area to get the smoothest cut. But that's just me.
I mean, I don't mind my saw blade getting all red hot and my saw bogging
down and melting the brushes.


--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com

---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply

"Greg Guarino" wrote in message ...

On 9/28/2011 3:51 PM, Father Haskell wrote:

Set the blade to full depth. Runs cooler with less strain
on the motor. You don't gain any safety advantage by
setting a portable saw light, since your fingers are
well-shielded by a 2" thick slab of wood.

I seem to remember being taught to have the blade protrude only a
half-inch or so. It might have been shop class, or maybe my Dad, but
either way it would have been in the Seventies. I don't specifically
remember it being a safety tip.

It seems undeniable that the blade would contact less of the work if it
is used at full depth, especially with a thick piece of wood, and thus
present less of a strain to the motor. But are there any consequences
for the cut itself? It seems to me that the teeth would cut through the
top surface of the wood nearly vertically. Would that not tend to chip
it more than if the angle had been smaller?
------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
It will chip out more but the chip out will be on the bottom. The overall
finish will be worse though. Now, can we have a three day thread on how to
sharpen a pointy stick?

On 9/29/2011 3:24 PM, CW wrote:
It will chip out more but the chip out will be on the bottom. The
overall finish will be worse though.

I'll stick with the shallower cut then.

Now, can we have a three day thread
on how to sharpen a pointy stick?

Ignorance is the default state for human beings as regards most topics.
Overcoming it frequently involves asking, politely. I have expended
quite a lot of verbiage answering questions from fledgling musicians
over the years, often on what seemed like "pointy-stick" level questions
to me. But I was a beginner once also, and would have appreciated some
good advice. Thanks for yours.

On Thu, 29 Sep 2011 15:12:34 -0400, Greg Guarino wrote:

On 9/28/2011 3:51 PM, Father Haskell wrote:

Set the blade to full depth. Runs cooler with less strain
on the motor. You don't gain any safety advantage by
setting a portable saw light, since your fingers are
well-shielded by a 2" thick slab of wood.

I seem to remember being taught to have the blade protrude only a
half-inch or so. It might have been shop class, or maybe my Dad, but
either way it would have been in the Seventies. I don't specifically
remember it being a safety tip.

I was taught that the entire tooth should stick out so the gullets can clear.
Any more just caused increased chipping and more dust to fly.

It seems undeniable that the blade would contact less of the work if it
is used at full depth, especially with a thick piece of wood, and thus
present less of a strain to the motor. But are there any consequences
for the cut itself? It seems to me that the teeth would cut through the
top surface of the wood nearly vertically. Would that not tend to chip
it more than if the angle had been smaller?

Yes. More chipping. TANSTAAFL.

Why not plane it down - with an electric plane.

Martin

On 9/28/2011 3:09 PM, -MIKE- wrote:
On 9/28/11 2:51 PM, Father Haskell wrote:
Set the blade to full depth. Runs cooler with less strain
on the motor.

How is that?

On Thu, 29 Sep 2011 17:08:20 -0400, Greg Guarino
wrote:

On 9/29/2011 3:24 PM, CW wrote:
It will chip out more but the chip out will be on the bottom. The
overall finish will be worse though.

I'll stick with the shallower cut then.

CW needs a new blade with more than 3 teeth left on it. Don't listen
to him.

A layer of masking tape on both sides will keep chipping to a minimum.
Peel the freshly-cut-in-half tape off -toward- the cut to keep from
pulling chips up. Now seal that bottom WELL so it can't absorb water!

--
Win first, Fight later.

--martial principle of the Samurai

On Thu, 29 Sep 2011 20:40:25 -0500, Martin Eastburn
wrote:

Why not plane it down - with an electric plane.

I picked up one of the little HF electric planers and they're
wonderful to use. I use mine to taper plywood for ramps and such. It's
a real timesaver. Some day, I'll remember to take the shop vac and
hook it up so it's not so bloody messy.

BUT, sawing a door with a circ saw is the best method I've ever used.

--
Win first, Fight later.

--martial principle of the Samurai

Greg Guarino wrote in news:j5vkkr$6ba$1@dont-
email.me:

The last time I did this I burned up my circular saw, or more
specifically, the brushes. I cut four doors that day, in fairly quick
succession. I'm no genius with a circular saw, but I thought I had done
it right. I used a fence as a guide and set the blade to protrude maybe
a half-inch below the bottom of the door. I tried not to go too fast.
This was a year ago, by the way.

I've since replaced the brushes and the saw works fine. It's a
pedestrian Skil model and has a fairly coarse 7-1/4" blade on it. I've
also got a much older saw with a 6-1/2" 40 tooth blade. I have another
brand-new HD solid-core door to cut down. It's the thinner variety that
they sell, 1-1/4"?

Tips, besides having an extra set of brushes around? Something to coat
the blade with to reduce friction, maybe? Cutting half the depth first?
(That doesn't sound like a good idea to me, but if you're too afraid to
ask, you don't learn)


If your Skil is like mine, you may want to blow it out with some
compressed air. I had some gunk stuck in the upper guard (old trex
shavings) and as soon as I cleaned it out the saw ran much better. On
the initial cut, I thought it was time to replace the blade, but on the
final cut there was no doubt that it was ok.

Interestingly, it looked like the size of the sawdust particles decreased
as well. Maybe the blade was running at speed and taking smaller bites?

Puckdropper

"Martin Eastburn" wrote:

Why not plane it down - with an electric plane.
-----------------
What?

And use the tool designed to do the job!

Surely you jest.

Lew

On 9/28/2011 10:37 PM, Larry Jaques wrote:
On Wed, 28 Sep 2011 22:22:15 -0500, Steve Barker
wrote:

On 9/28/2011 10:14 PM, Larry Jaques wrote:
On Wed, 28 Sep 2011 19:37:22 -0400, wrote:

But the blade needs to be CLEAN. A pitch-encrusted blade takes more
than twice the power a clean blade takes - particularly in petrified
saw-dust. A good shot with something like "brake kleen" will disolve
the crud very quickly and you won't believe the difference in the cut.

Safer, and usually also handy, is SimpleGreen. Soak the blade in it
for 15-30 minutes, rinse (the pine tar falls off), and reinstall. Save
the soak for a dozen or more blades. It lasts when bottled. I use a
regular old pie tin for holding the solution.

nothing unsafe about brakleen, but it won't cut pitch like carb cleaner
will.

Brakleen works great on carbs, too, both for starting and cleaning the
exterior, if you're unlucky enough to still be stuck with one.

I don't particularly like breathing all those VOCs, and you have to
use a bit of caution with any flame near its use, and you don't want
to spray/drip onto any painted surfaces with it. I only use it
outside on windy days.g

SimpleGreen is much easier.

So, -yeah-, Brakleen has safety concerns...if you're awake enough.

--
Live in the sunshine, swim the sea, drink the wild air…
-- Ralph Waldo Emerson


a: brakleen is not flammable
b: brakleen will not hurt paint. we use it all the time to remove tar
c: brakleen will not clean the junk off a carb that needs to come off.

--
Steve Barker
remove the "not" from my address to email

On 9/29/11 11:21 PM, Lew Hodgett wrote:
"Martin Eastburn" wrote:

Why not plane it down - with an electric plane.
-----------------
What?

And use the tool designed to do the job!

Surely you jest.

Lew


That can take quite a while and make a heck of a lot of sawdust if you
need to remove an inch or more.


--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com

---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply

On Thu, 29 Sep 2011 23:29:11 -0500, Steve Barker
wrote:

On 9/28/2011 10:37 PM, Larry Jaques wrote:
On Wed, 28 Sep 2011 22:22:15 -0500, Steve Barker
wrote:

On 9/28/2011 10:14 PM, Larry Jaques wrote:
On Wed, 28 Sep 2011 19:37:22 -0400, wrote:

But the blade needs to be CLEAN. A pitch-encrusted blade takes more
than twice the power a clean blade takes - particularly in petrified
saw-dust. A good shot with something like "brake kleen" will disolve
the crud very quickly and you won't believe the difference in the cut.

Safer, and usually also handy, is SimpleGreen. Soak the blade in it
for 15-30 minutes, rinse (the pine tar falls off), and reinstall. Save
the soak for a dozen or more blades. It lasts when bottled. I use a
regular old pie tin for holding the solution.

nothing unsafe about brakleen, but it won't cut pitch like carb cleaner
will.

Brakleen works great on carbs, too, both for starting and cleaning the
exterior, if you're unlucky enough to still be stuck with one.

I don't particularly like breathing all those VOCs, and you have to
use a bit of caution with any flame near its use, and you don't want
to spray/drip onto any painted surfaces with it. I only use it
outside on windy days.g

SimpleGreen is much easier.

So, -yeah-, Brakleen has safety concerns...if you're awake enough.

a: brakleen is not flammable
b: brakleen will not hurt paint. we use it all the time to remove tar
c: brakleen will not clean the junk off a carb that needs to come off.

Hmm, the stuff I have now is not Brakleen, it's O'Reilly Brake Parts
Cleaner and it contains methanol, acetone, and toluene.
EXTREMELY FLAMMABLE.

Brakleen containes Tetrachloroethylene, chloroethylene, and petroleum
distillates.
Hmm, NONflammable.
http://www.rwsidley.com/MSDS/crc%20brakleen.pdf

Brakleen non-chlorinated contains methanol, acetone, heptane, and
toluene.
EXTREMELY FLAMMABLE.
http://www.crcindustries.com/faxdocs/msds/5088.pdf

--
In the depth of winter, I finally learned
that within me there lay an invincible summer.
-- Albert Camus

On 9/30/2011 12:29 AM, Steve Barker wrote:
On 9/28/2011 10:37 PM, Larry Jaques wrote:

Brakleen works great on carbs, too, both for starting and cleaning the
exterior, if you're unlucky enough to still be stuck with one.

I don't particularly like breathing all those VOCs, and you have to
use a bit of caution with any flame near its use, and you don't want
to spray/drip onto any painted surfaces with it. I only use it
outside on windy days.g


a: brakleen is not flammable

It most certainly is.
http://www.crcind.com/wwwcrc/msds/AB11261-3.htm
2. Hazard Identification
Health and Safety: Extremely flammable
5. Fire-fighting Measures
Flash point: 0 deg C

b: brakleen will not hurt paint. we use it all the time to remove tar

It most certainly will. Refer to the MSDS: it's 5 to 10% acetone. You
won't see the damage to the paint until you use it the second or third
time in the same spot, after the acetone has removed the clear coat.

c: brakleen will not clean the junk off a carb that needs to come off.

That's probably true.

Dougy posts "maybe and then maybe not" but just wants to be seen as an
expert without actually knowing anything.

--------------
"Doug Miller" wrote in message ...
That's probably true.

-------------
c: brakleen will not clean the junk off a carb that needs to come
off.

On Fri, 30 Sep 2011 08:38:22 -0400, "m II" wrote:
Dougy posts "maybe and then maybe not" but just wants to be seen as an
expert without actually knowing anything.

Certainly better than you're repeated demonstration of how to be an
asshole.

On Sep 28, 12:18*pm, dpb wrote:
On 9/28/2011 12:14 PM, Greg Guarino wrote:



The last time I did this I burned up my circular saw, or more
specifically, the brushes. I cut four doors that day, in fairly quick
succession. I'm no genius with a circular saw, but I thought I had done
it right. I used a fence as a guide and set the blade to protrude maybe
a half-inch below the bottom of the door. I tried not to go too fast.
This was a year ago, by the way.

I've since replaced the brushes and the saw works fine. It's a
pedestrian Skil model and has a fairly coarse 7-1/4" blade on it. I've
also got a much older saw with a 6-1/2" 40 tooth blade. I have another
brand-new HD solid-core door to cut down. It's the thinner variety that
they sell, 1-1/4"?

Tips, besides having an extra set of brushes around? Something to coat
the blade with to reduce friction, maybe? Cutting half the depth first?
(That doesn't sound like a good idea to me, but if you're too afraid to
ask, you don't learn)

I'd venture the brushes failing at that time had nothing in common w/
the fact that it was the door(s) being cut; it was just there time in
all likelihood.

No surprising tips other than to be sure the blade isn't _terribly_ dull
and is intended for the general purpose--iow, don't use a plywood or
no-set finish blade...

--

I have to think the brushes were on the way out anyway. I cut several
oak veneer six panel doors a year ago with a 30+ year old circular saw
with no power issues. I consulted with a finish carpenter and he said
the best way to ensure a clean cut, with the veneer doors, was to use
a new, inexpensive, carbide-tip, thin-kerf blade. Dewalt and Irwin
sell them for less than $10 at home improvement stores. That is what
I did, using a clamped on straightedge, and it was a no-brainer.
Don't forget to apply finish to the bottom fresh-cut edge and give it
time to cure before installation (especially above carpet)..

RonB

On 9/29/2011 11:54 PM, Puckdropper wrote:
Greg wrote in news:j5vkkr$6ba$1@dont-
email.me:


If your Skil is like mine, you may want to blow it out with some
compressed air. I had some gunk stuck in the upper guard (old trex
shavings) and as soon as I cleaned it out the saw ran much better. On
the initial cut, I thought it was time to replace the blade, but on the
final cut there was no doubt that it was ok.

Interestingly, it looked like the size of the sawdust particles decreased
as well. Maybe the blade was running at speed and taking smaller bites?

Puckdropper

Good tip. I'll check that out.

On 9/29/2011 5:34 PM, zzzzzzzzzz wrote:
On Thu, 29 Sep 2011 15:12:34 -0400, Greg wrote:

On 9/28/2011 3:51 PM, Father Haskell wrote:

Set the blade to full depth. Runs cooler with less strain
on the motor. You don't gain any safety advantage by
setting a portable saw light, since your fingers are
well-shielded by a 2" thick slab of wood.

I seem to remember being taught to have the blade protrude only a
half-inch or so. It might have been shop class, or maybe my Dad, but
either way it would have been in the Seventies. I don't specifically
remember it being a safety tip.

I was taught that the entire tooth should stick out so the gullets can clear.
Any more just caused increased chipping and more dust to fly.

It seems undeniable that the blade would contact less of the work if it
is used at full depth, especially with a thick piece of wood, and thus
present less of a strain to the motor. But are there any consequences
for the cut itself? It seems to me that the teeth would cut through the
top surface of the wood nearly vertically. Would that not tend to chip
it more than if the angle had been smaller?

Yes. More chipping. TANSTAAFL.

AITOOWDUTA?

(Am I The Only One Who Doesn't Understand These Acronyms?)

Yes, I looked it up, but geez, I'm becoming a neanderthal, I guess.

On Sep 30, 8:51*am, Greg Guarino wrote:
On 9/29/2011 5:34 PM, wrote:



On Thu, 29 Sep 2011 15:12:34 -0400, Greg *wrote:

On 9/28/2011 3:51 PM, Father Haskell wrote:

Set the blade to full depth. *Runs cooler with less strain
on the motor. *You don't gain any safety advantage by
setting a portable saw light, since your fingers are
well-shielded by a 2" thick slab of wood.

I seem to remember being taught to have the blade protrude only a
half-inch or so. It might have been shop class, or maybe my Dad, but
either way it would have been in the Seventies. I don't specifically
remember it being a safety tip.

I was taught that the entire tooth should stick out so the gullets can clear.
Any more just caused increased chipping and more dust to fly.

It seems undeniable that the blade would contact less of the work if it
is used at full depth, especially with a thick piece of wood, and thus
present less of a strain to the motor. But are there any consequences
for the cut itself? It seems to me that the teeth would cut through the
top surface of the wood nearly vertically. Would that not tend to chip
it more than if the angle had been smaller?

Yes. *More chipping. *TANSTAAFL.

AITOOWDUTA?

(Am I The Only One Who Doesn't Understand These Acronyms?)

Yes, I looked it up, but geez, I'm becoming a neanderthal, I guess.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

As I read the OP comment, my first thought was I wonder if the blade
was put in backwards. It would still cut but very slowly and
eventually could burn up the brushes. The teeth need to be pointed up
from the bottom at the front of the blade. When cutting with a
circular saw, the cutting action is done on the bottom of the wood,
which pulls the saw down onto the top of th wood surface.

Rob

rlz wrote:


As I read the OP comment, my first thought was I wonder if the blade
was put in backwards. It would still cut but very slowly and
eventually could burn up the brushes. The teeth need to be pointed up
from the bottom at the front of the blade. When cutting with a
circular saw, the cutting action is done on the bottom of the wood,
which pulls the saw down onto the top of th wood surface.


Actually, it is very common for certain types of cuts, to install the blade
backwards. It does not burn up the brushes.

--

-Mike-

Yep, when I cut through my aluminum siding to install a new window, I
reversed a ply blade to prevent destroying the aluminum.

It didn't hook the alum and destroy it. Rather it kept scoring and
cutting if you will.

On 9/30/2011 8:22 PM, Mike Marlow wrote:
rlz wrote:


As I read the OP comment, my first thought was I wonder if the blade
was put in backwards. It would still cut but very slowly and
eventually could burn up the brushes. The teeth need to be pointed up
from the bottom at the front of the blade. When cutting with a
circular saw, the cutting action is done on the bottom of the wood,
which pulls the saw down onto the top of th wood surface.


Actually, it is very common for certain types of cuts, to install the blade
backwards. It does not burn up the brushes.

On Sat, 01 Oct 2011 11:57:21 -0400, tiredofspam nospam.nospam.com
wrote:

Yep, when I cut through my aluminum siding to install a new window, I
reversed a ply blade to prevent destroying the aluminum.

It didn't hook the alum and destroy it. Rather it kept scoring and
cutting if you will.
Not a good idea with brazed carbide blades though!!!

On 9/30/2011 8:22 PM, Mike Marlow wrote:
rlz wrote:


As I read the OP comment, my first thought was I wonder if the blade
was put in backwards. It would still cut but very slowly and
eventually could burn up the brushes. The teeth need to be pointed up
from the bottom at the front of the blade. When cutting with a
circular saw, the cutting action is done on the bottom of the wood,
which pulls the saw down onto the top of th wood surface.


Actually, it is very common for certain types of cuts, to install the blade
backwards. It does not burn up the brushes.

Having a hard time forming a complete sentence with proper grammar?

------------------------
"Dave" wrote in message
...
Certainly better than you're repeated demonstration of how to be an
asshole.

On 10/1/2011 5:32 PM, wrote:
On Sat, 01 Oct 2011 11:57:21 -0400, tiredofspamnospam.nospam.com
wrote:

Yep, when I cut through my aluminum siding to install a new window, I
reversed a ply blade to prevent destroying the aluminum.

It didn't hook the alum and destroy it. Rather it kept scoring and
cutting if you will.
Not a good idea with brazed carbide blades though!!!

Agreed... the ply blade was a finish ply ... steel plate. Yes you are
right the carbide might be quickly thrown off.. I own a Porter Cable
lefty saw. I mounted a blade backward one time by accident... The labels
are for righty saws... The carbide survived somehow... When I saw the
smoke from the burning I was confused, but stopped to look.
Boy what a dumbass I was.

On 9/30/2011 8:22 PM, Mike Marlow wrote:
rlz wrote:


As I read the OP comment, my first thought was I wonder if the blade
was put in backwards. It would still cut but very slowly and
eventually could burn up the brushes. The teeth need to be pointed up
from the bottom at the front of the blade. When cutting with a
circular saw, the cutting action is done on the bottom of the wood,
which pulls the saw down onto the top of th wood surface.


Actually, it is very common for certain types of cuts, to install the blade
backwards. It does not burn up the brushes.

On Sun, 2 Oct 2011 08:34:44 -0400, "m II" wrote:

Having a hard time forming a complete sentence with proper grammar?

Honestly, the "you're" was inserted on purpose to show that you really
are an ass hole and a hypocritical one too.

On 9/30/2011 9:55 AM, Greg Guarino wrote:
On 9/29/2011 11:54 PM, Puckdropper wrote:
Greg wrote in news:j5vkkr$6ba$1@dont-
email.me:


If your Skil is like mine, you may want to blow it out with some
compressed air. I had some gunk stuck in the upper guard (old trex
shavings) and as soon as I cleaned it out the saw ran much better. On
the initial cut, I thought it was time to replace the blade, but on the
final cut there was no doubt that it was ok.

Interestingly, it looked like the size of the sawdust particles decreased
as well. Maybe the blade was running at speed and taking smaller bites?

Puckdropper

Good tip. I'll check that out.

For the 80th post in this thread, I can report that the job was
completed without incident. I used the 24 tooth blade in the 7-1/4"
Skil, with the depth set to just expose the "gullets" (I learned another
new word!). I used the aluminum guide I mentioned upthread, and
painter's tape. The cut was nice and smooth, with no splintering to
speak of and the saw and brushes performed without complaint.

Thanks again.