On Sep 28, 12:18*pm, dpb wrote:
On 9/28/2011 12:14 PM, Greg Guarino wrote:



The last time I did this I burned up my circular saw, or more
specifically, the brushes. I cut four doors that day, in fairly quick
succession. I'm no genius with a circular saw, but I thought I had done
it right. I used a fence as a guide and set the blade to protrude maybe
a half-inch below the bottom of the door. I tried not to go too fast.
This was a year ago, by the way.

I've since replaced the brushes and the saw works fine. It's a
pedestrian Skil model and has a fairly coarse 7-1/4" blade on it. I've
also got a much older saw with a 6-1/2" 40 tooth blade. I have another
brand-new HD solid-core door to cut down. It's the thinner variety that
they sell, 1-1/4"?

Tips, besides having an extra set of brushes around? Something to coat
the blade with to reduce friction, maybe? Cutting half the depth first?
(That doesn't sound like a good idea to me, but if you're too afraid to
ask, you don't learn)

I'd venture the brushes failing at that time had nothing in common w/
the fact that it was the door(s) being cut; it was just there time in
all likelihood.

No surprising tips other than to be sure the blade isn't _terribly_ dull
and is intended for the general purpose--iow, don't use a plywood or
no-set finish blade...

--

I have to think the brushes were on the way out anyway. I cut several
oak veneer six panel doors a year ago with a 30+ year old circular saw
with no power issues. I consulted with a finish carpenter and he said
the best way to ensure a clean cut, with the veneer doors, was to use
a new, inexpensive, carbide-tip, thin-kerf blade. Dewalt and Irwin
sell them for less than $10 at home improvement stores. That is what
I did, using a clamped on straightedge, and it was a no-brainer.
Don't forget to apply finish to the bottom fresh-cut edge and give it
time to cure before installation (especially above carpet)..

RonB