The last time I did this I burned up my circular saw, or more
specifically, the brushes. I cut four doors that day, in fairly quick
succession. I'm no genius with a circular saw, but I thought I had done
it right. I used a fence as a guide and set the blade to protrude maybe
a half-inch below the bottom of the door. I tried not to go too fast.
This was a year ago, by the way.

I've since replaced the brushes and the saw works fine. It's a
pedestrian Skil model and has a fairly coarse 7-1/4" blade on it. I've
also got a much older saw with a 6-1/2" 40 tooth blade. I have another
brand-new HD solid-core door to cut down. It's the thinner variety that
they sell, 1-1/4"?

Tips, besides having an extra set of brushes around? Something to coat
the blade with to reduce friction, maybe? Cutting half the depth first?
(That doesn't sound like a good idea to me, but if you're too afraid to
ask, you don't learn)

On 9/28/2011 12:14 PM, Greg Guarino wrote:
The last time I did this I burned up my circular saw, or more
specifically, the brushes. I cut four doors that day, in fairly quick
succession. I'm no genius with a circular saw, but I thought I had done
it right. I used a fence as a guide and set the blade to protrude maybe
a half-inch below the bottom of the door. I tried not to go too fast.
This was a year ago, by the way.

I've since replaced the brushes and the saw works fine. It's a
pedestrian Skil model and has a fairly coarse 7-1/4" blade on it. I've
also got a much older saw with a 6-1/2" 40 tooth blade. I have another
brand-new HD solid-core door to cut down. It's the thinner variety that
they sell, 1-1/4"?

Tips, besides having an extra set of brushes around? Something to coat
the blade with to reduce friction, maybe? Cutting half the depth first?
(That doesn't sound like a good idea to me, but if you're too afraid to
ask, you don't learn)

I'd venture the brushes failing at that time had nothing in common w/
the fact that it was the door(s) being cut; it was just there time in
all likelihood.

No surprising tips other than to be sure the blade isn't _terribly_ dull
and is intended for the general purpose--iow, don't use a plywood or
no-set finish blade...

--

On 9/28/2011 12:18 PM, dpb wrote:
....

I'd venture the brushes failing at that time had nothing in common w/
the fact that it was the door(s) being cut; it was just there time in
....

....it was just THEIR time...

--

dpb wrote:
On 9/28/2011 12:18 PM, dpb wrote:
...

I'd venture the brushes failing at that time had nothing in common w/
the fact that it was the door(s) being cut; it was just there time in
...

...it was just THEIR time...

--


whose time? ; )

On 9/28/2011 1:25 PM, dpb wrote:
On 9/28/2011 12:18 PM, dpb wrote:
...

I'd venture the brushes failing at that time had nothing in common w/
the fact that it was the door(s) being cut; it was just there time in
...

...it was just THEIR time...

That makes sense, except that the saw has gotten pretty light use over
the years. Maybe it was a grammar problem ...

Any thoughts on which blade/saw combo would be better?

On Wed, 28 Sep 2011 13:32:50 -0400, Greg Guarino wrote:

On 9/28/2011 1:25 PM, dpb wrote:
On 9/28/2011 12:18 PM, dpb wrote:
...

I'd venture the brushes failing at that time had nothing in common w/
the fact that it was the door(s) being cut; it was just there time in
...

...it was just THEIR time...

That makes sense, except that the saw has gotten pretty light use over
the years. Maybe it was a grammar problem ...

Could be some corrosion on the commutator that took them out. The other
thought is to make sure that the shoe is parallel to the blade. It may have
gotten whacked somewhere along the line.

Any thoughts on which blade/saw combo would be better?

For a general purpose circular saw blade, I've liked the narrow kerf Diablo
blades. That's pretty much all I used in the cordless saw. For a saw, well,
Festool! (somebody had to say it ;-)

Second that!

Try one and you'll never go back

--------------
wrote in message ...
For a general purpose circular saw blade, I've liked the narrow kerf
Diablo
blades.

Greg Guarino wrote:

Any thoughts on which blade/saw combo would be better?

The coarse one.

--

dadiOH
____________________________

dadiOH's dandies v3.06...
....a help file of info about MP3s, recording from
LP/cassette and tips & tricks on this and that.
Get it at http://mysite.verizon.net/xico

On 9/28/2011 12:32 PM, Greg Guarino wrote:
On 9/28/2011 1:25 PM, dpb wrote:
On 9/28/2011 12:18 PM, dpb wrote:
...

I'd venture the brushes failing at that time had nothing in common w/
the fact that it was the door(s) being cut; it was just there time in
...

...it was just THEIR time...

That makes sense, except that the saw has gotten pretty light use over
the years. Maybe it was a grammar problem ...

Any thoughts on which blade/saw combo would be better?

Is this a composite solid-core (from the particle-wood tree, etc., ...
) or a solid-wood door?

--

On 9/28/2011 2:49 PM, dpb wrote:
On 9/28/2011 12:32 PM, Greg Guarino wrote:
On 9/28/2011 1:25 PM, dpb wrote:
On 9/28/2011 12:18 PM, dpb wrote:
...

I'd venture the brushes failing at that time had nothing in common w/
the fact that it was the door(s) being cut; it was just there time in
...

...it was just THEIR time...

That makes sense, except that the saw has gotten pretty light use over
the years. Maybe it was a grammar problem ...

Any thoughts on which blade/saw combo would be better?

Is this a composite solid-core (from the particle-wood tree, etc., ...
) or a solid-wood door?

In this case, it's the standard HD article, so more likely the former.

On Sep 28, 12:18*pm, dpb wrote:
On 9/28/2011 12:14 PM, Greg Guarino wrote:



The last time I did this I burned up my circular saw, or more
specifically, the brushes. I cut four doors that day, in fairly quick
succession. I'm no genius with a circular saw, but I thought I had done
it right. I used a fence as a guide and set the blade to protrude maybe
a half-inch below the bottom of the door. I tried not to go too fast.
This was a year ago, by the way.

I've since replaced the brushes and the saw works fine. It's a
pedestrian Skil model and has a fairly coarse 7-1/4" blade on it. I've
also got a much older saw with a 6-1/2" 40 tooth blade. I have another
brand-new HD solid-core door to cut down. It's the thinner variety that
they sell, 1-1/4"?

Tips, besides having an extra set of brushes around? Something to coat
the blade with to reduce friction, maybe? Cutting half the depth first?
(That doesn't sound like a good idea to me, but if you're too afraid to
ask, you don't learn)

I'd venture the brushes failing at that time had nothing in common w/
the fact that it was the door(s) being cut; it was just there time in
all likelihood.

No surprising tips other than to be sure the blade isn't _terribly_ dull
and is intended for the general purpose--iow, don't use a plywood or
no-set finish blade...

--

I have to think the brushes were on the way out anyway. I cut several
oak veneer six panel doors a year ago with a 30+ year old circular saw
with no power issues. I consulted with a finish carpenter and he said
the best way to ensure a clean cut, with the veneer doors, was to use
a new, inexpensive, carbide-tip, thin-kerf blade. Dewalt and Irwin
sell them for less than $10 at home improvement stores. That is what
I did, using a clamped on straightedge, and it was a no-brainer.
Don't forget to apply finish to the bottom fresh-cut edge and give it
time to cure before installation (especially above carpet)..

RonB

On Sep 28, 1:14*pm, Greg Guarino wrote:
The last time I did this I burned up my circular saw, or more
specifically, the brushes. I cut four doors that day, in fairly quick
succession. I'm no genius with a circular saw, but I thought I had done
it right. I used a fence as a guide and set the blade to protrude maybe
a half-inch below the bottom of the door. I tried not to go too fast.
This was a year ago, by the way.

I've since replaced the brushes and the saw works fine. It's a
pedestrian Skil model and has a fairly coarse 7-1/4" blade on it. I've
also got a much older saw with a 6-1/2" 40 tooth blade. I have another
brand-new HD solid-core door to cut down. It's the thinner variety that
they sell, 1-1/4"?

Tips, besides having an extra set of brushes around? Something to coat
the blade with to reduce friction, maybe? Cutting half the depth first?
(That doesn't sound like a good idea to me, but if you're too afraid to
ask, you don't learn)

Set the blade to full depth. Runs cooler with less strain
on the motor. You don't gain any safety advantage by
setting a portable saw light, since your fingers are
well-shielded by a 2" thick slab of wood.

On 9/28/11 2:51 PM, Father Haskell wrote:
Set the blade to full depth. Runs cooler with less strain
on the motor.

How is that?


--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com

---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply

On Sep 28, 4:09*pm, -MIKE- wrote:
On 9/28/11 2:51 PM, Father Haskell wrote:

Set the blade to full depth. *Runs cooler with less strain
on the motor.

How is that?

Shorter path through the wood. Easier for the gullets
to eject chips.

On Sep 28, 4:10*pm, Father Haskell wrote:
On Sep 28, 4:09*pm, -MIKE- wrote:

On 9/28/11 2:51 PM, Father Haskell wrote:

Set the blade to full depth. *Runs cooler with less strain
on the motor.

How is that?

Shorter path through the wood. *Easier for the gullets
to eject chips.

Makes sense to me.

On 9/28/11 5:17 PM, Robatoy wrote:
On Sep 28, 4:10 pm, Father wrote:
On Sep 28, 4:09 pm, wrote:

On 9/28/11 2:51 PM, Father Haskell wrote:

Set the blade to full depth. Runs cooler with less strain
on the motor.

How is that?

Shorter path through the wood. Easier for the gullets
to eject chips.

Makes sense to me.

It does, but it's also a moot point with a decent saw and blade.


--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com

---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply

On Wed, 28 Sep 2011 15:17:56 -0700 (PDT), Robatoy
wrote:

On Sep 28, 4:10*pm, Father Haskell wrote:
On Sep 28, 4:09*pm, -MIKE- wrote:

On 9/28/11 2:51 PM, Father Haskell wrote:

Set the blade to full depth. *Runs cooler with less strain
on the motor.

How is that?

Shorter path through the wood. *Easier for the gullets
to eject chips.

Makes sense to me.

Eez true, too, mi compadre.

--
Live in the sunshine, swim the sea, drink the wild air…
-- Ralph Waldo Emerson

On 9/28/2011 3:09 PM, -MIKE- wrote:
On 9/28/11 2:51 PM, Father Haskell wrote:
Set the blade to full depth. Runs cooler with less strain
on the motor.

How is that?



less cut being made at a time.

if you have the blade just *barely* through a inch and a half piece,
then you have almost four inches of cut being made. if you have it at
full depth, you are almost straight up and down with the cut and only
making 1- 1/2" at at time.

--
Steve Barker
remove the "not" from my address to email

On 9/28/11 10:20 PM, Steve Barker wrote:
On 9/28/2011 3:09 PM, -MIKE- wrote:
On 9/28/11 2:51 PM, Father Haskell wrote:
Set the blade to full depth. Runs cooler with less strain
on the motor.

How is that?



less cut being made at a time.

if you have the blade just *barely* through a inch and a half piece,
then you have almost four inches of cut being made. if you have it at
full depth, you are almost straight up and down with the cut and only
making 1- 1/2" at at time.


Like I've been saying, if you have to worry about heat or bogging down,
you need a new saw and/or blade.
There are other, better, reasons to keep the saw blade up.


--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com

---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply

On Sep 28, 11:39*pm, -MIKE- wrote:
On 9/28/11 10:20 PM, Steve Barker wrote:









On 9/28/2011 3:09 PM, -MIKE- wrote:
On 9/28/11 2:51 PM, Father Haskell wrote:
Set the blade to full depth. Runs cooler with less strain
on the motor.

How is that?

less cut being made at a time.

if you have the blade just *barely* through a inch and a half piece,
then you have almost four inches of cut being made. if you have it at
full depth, you are almost straight up and down with the cut and only
making 1- 1/2" at at time.

Like I've been saying, if you have to worry about heat or bogging down,
you need a new saw and/or blade.
There are other, better, reasons to keep the saw blade up.


My saw has a variable mootness adjustment.

Why not plane it down - with an electric plane.

Martin

On 9/28/2011 3:09 PM, -MIKE- wrote:
On 9/28/11 2:51 PM, Father Haskell wrote:
Set the blade to full depth. Runs cooler with less strain
on the motor.

How is that?

On Thu, 29 Sep 2011 20:40:25 -0500, Martin Eastburn
wrote:

Why not plane it down - with an electric plane.

I picked up one of the little HF electric planers and they're
wonderful to use. I use mine to taper plywood for ramps and such. It's
a real timesaver. Some day, I'll remember to take the shop vac and
hook it up so it's not so bloody messy.

BUT, sawing a door with a circ saw is the best method I've ever used.

--
Win first, Fight later.

--martial principle of the Samurai

"Martin Eastburn" wrote:

Why not plane it down - with an electric plane.
-----------------
What?

And use the tool designed to do the job!

Surely you jest.

Lew

On 9/29/11 11:21 PM, Lew Hodgett wrote:
"Martin Eastburn" wrote:

Why not plane it down - with an electric plane.
-----------------
What?

And use the tool designed to do the job!

Surely you jest.

Lew


That can take quite a while and make a heck of a lot of sawdust if you
need to remove an inch or more.


--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com

---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply

On Wed, 28 Sep 2011 12:51:21 -0700 (PDT), Father Haskell
wrote:

On Sep 28, 1:14*pm, Greg Guarino wrote:
The last time I did this I burned up my circular saw, or more
specifically, the brushes. I cut four doors that day, in fairly quick
succession. I'm no genius with a circular saw, but I thought I had done
it right. I used a fence as a guide and set the blade to protrude maybe
a half-inch below the bottom of the door. I tried not to go too fast.
This was a year ago, by the way.

I've since replaced the brushes and the saw works fine. It's a
pedestrian Skil model and has a fairly coarse 7-1/4" blade on it. I've
also got a much older saw with a 6-1/2" 40 tooth blade. I have another
brand-new HD solid-core door to cut down. It's the thinner variety that
they sell, 1-1/4"?

Tips, besides having an extra set of brushes around? Something to coat
the blade with to reduce friction, maybe? Cutting half the depth first?
(That doesn't sound like a good idea to me, but if you're too afraid to
ask, you don't learn)

Set the blade to full depth. Runs cooler with less strain
on the motor.

Agreed!


You don't gain any safety advantage by
setting a portable saw light, since your fingers are
well-shielded by a 2" thick slab of wood.

Um, one shouldn't have their fingers anywhere -near- the saw blade
while it is cutting, Dad. Besides, your suggestion there just put
someone at risk of a multiple severing of fingers. Smooth!

--
Live in the sunshine, swim the sea, drink the wild air…
-- Ralph Waldo Emerson

On Wed, 28 Sep 2011 12:51:21 -0700 (PDT), Father Haskell
wrote:

On Sep 28, 1:14Â*pm, Greg Guarino wrote:
The last time I did this I burned up my circular saw, or more
specifically, the brushes. I cut four doors that day, in fairly quick
succession. I'm no genius with a circular saw, but I thought I had done
it right. I used a fence as a guide and set the blade to protrude maybe
a half-inch below the bottom of the door. I tried not to go too fast.
This was a year ago, by the way.

I've since replaced the brushes and the saw works fine. It's a
pedestrian Skil model and has a fairly coarse 7-1/4" blade on it. I've
also got a much older saw with a 6-1/2" 40 tooth blade. I have another
brand-new HD solid-core door to cut down. It's the thinner variety that
they sell, 1-1/4"?

Tips, besides having an extra set of brushes around? Something to coat
the blade with to reduce friction, maybe? Cutting half the depth first?
(That doesn't sound like a good idea to me, but if you're too afraid to
ask, you don't learn)

Set the blade to full depth. Runs cooler with less strain
on the motor. You don't gain any safety advantage by
setting a portable saw light, since your fingers are
well-shielded by a 2" thick slab of wood.
Correct - full depth cut causes the shortest tooth path through the
wood - meaning the least wasted power.

On Sep 28, 7:40*pm, wrote:
On Wed, 28 Sep 2011 12:51:21 -0700 (PDT), Father Haskell









wrote:
On Sep 28, 1:14*pm, Greg Guarino wrote:
The last time I did this I burned up my circular saw, or more
specifically, the brushes. I cut four doors that day, in fairly quick
succession. I'm no genius with a circular saw, but I thought I had done
it right. I used a fence as a guide and set the blade to protrude maybe
a half-inch below the bottom of the door. I tried not to go too fast.
This was a year ago, by the way.

I've since replaced the brushes and the saw works fine. It's a
pedestrian Skil model and has a fairly coarse 7-1/4" blade on it. I've
also got a much older saw with a 6-1/2" 40 tooth blade. I have another
brand-new HD solid-core door to cut down. It's the thinner variety that
they sell, 1-1/4"?

Tips, besides having an extra set of brushes around? Something to coat
the blade with to reduce friction, maybe? Cutting half the depth first?
(That doesn't sound like a good idea to me, but if you're too afraid to
ask, you don't learn)

Set the blade to full depth. *Runs cooler with less strain
on the motor. *You don't gain any safety advantage by
setting a portable saw light, since your fingers are
well-shielded by a 2" thick slab of wood.

*Correct - full depth cut causes the shortest tooth path through the
wood - meaning the least wasted power.

Right. Only reason a table saw blade is set to cut low
is to limit how deep a dado it can cut through your hand.

On 9/28/11 8:22 PM, Father Haskell wrote:
On Sep 28, 7:40 pm, wrote:
On Wed, 28 Sep 2011 12:51:21 -0700 (PDT), Father Haskell









wrote:
On Sep 28, 1:14 pm, Greg wrote:
The last time I did this I burned up my circular saw, or more
specifically, the brushes. I cut four doors that day, in fairly quick
succession. I'm no genius with a circular saw, but I thought I had done
it right. I used a fence as a guide and set the blade to protrude maybe
a half-inch below the bottom of the door. I tried not to go too fast.
This was a year ago, by the way.

I've since replaced the brushes and the saw works fine. It's a
pedestrian Skil model and has a fairly coarse 7-1/4" blade on it. I've
also got a much older saw with a 6-1/2" 40 tooth blade. I have another
brand-new HD solid-core door to cut down. It's the thinner variety that
they sell, 1-1/4"?

Tips, besides having an extra set of brushes around? Something to coat
the blade with to reduce friction, maybe? Cutting half the depth first?
(That doesn't sound like a good idea to me, but if you're too afraid to
ask, you don't learn)

Set the blade to full depth. Runs cooler with less strain
on the motor. You don't gain any safety advantage by
setting a portable saw light, since your fingers are
well-shielded by a 2" thick slab of wood.

Correct - full depth cut causes the shortest tooth path through the
wood - meaning the least wasted power.

Right. Only reason a table saw blade is set to cut low
is to limit how deep a dado it can cut through your hand.

Well... there's always the fact that you might not want to cut all the
way through your saw horses or have to set your plywood up on the edges
of 2x4's to keep from cutting though your workbench or concrete floor.

In any case, I still contend it's a moot point. If you're blade is
running too hot or your saw is bogging down, it's time for a new saw
and/or blade.


--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com

---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply

On 9/28/2011 2:51 PM, Father Haskell wrote:
On Sep 28, 1:14 pm, Greg wrote:
The last time I did this I burned up my circular saw, or more
specifically, the brushes. I cut four doors that day, in fairly quick
succession. I'm no genius with a circular saw, but I thought I had done
it right. I used a fence as a guide and set the blade to protrude maybe
a half-inch below the bottom of the door. I tried not to go too fast.
This was a year ago, by the way.

I've since replaced the brushes and the saw works fine. It's a
pedestrian Skil model and has a fairly coarse 7-1/4" blade on it. I've
also got a much older saw with a 6-1/2" 40 tooth blade. I have another
brand-new HD solid-core door to cut down. It's the thinner variety that
they sell, 1-1/4"?

Tips, besides having an extra set of brushes around? Something to coat
the blade with to reduce friction, maybe? Cutting half the depth first?
(That doesn't sound like a good idea to me, but if you're too afraid to
ask, you don't learn)

Set the blade to full depth. Runs cooler with less strain
on the motor. You don't gain any safety advantage by
setting a portable saw light, since your fingers are
well-shielded by a 2" thick slab of wood.

but you might cut the saw horse in two....


--
Steve Barker
remove the "not" from my address to email

On Wed, 28 Sep 2011 22:18:11 -0500, Steve Barker
wrote:

On 9/28/2011 2:51 PM, Father Haskell wrote:
On Sep 28, 1:14 pm, Greg wrote:
The last time I did this I burned up my circular saw, or more
specifically, the brushes. I cut four doors that day, in fairly quick
succession. I'm no genius with a circular saw, but I thought I had done
it right. I used a fence as a guide and set the blade to protrude maybe
a half-inch below the bottom of the door. I tried not to go too fast.
This was a year ago, by the way.

I've since replaced the brushes and the saw works fine. It's a
pedestrian Skil model and has a fairly coarse 7-1/4" blade on it. I've
also got a much older saw with a 6-1/2" 40 tooth blade. I have another
brand-new HD solid-core door to cut down. It's the thinner variety that
they sell, 1-1/4"?

Tips, besides having an extra set of brushes around? Something to coat
the blade with to reduce friction, maybe? Cutting half the depth first?
(That doesn't sound like a good idea to me, but if you're too afraid to
ask, you don't learn)

Set the blade to full depth. Runs cooler with less strain
on the motor. You don't gain any safety advantage by
setting a portable saw light, since your fingers are
well-shielded by a 2" thick slab of wood.

but you might cut the saw horse in two....

Or your work mutt. (Hi, O'Deen!)

--
Live in the sunshine, swim the sea, drink the wild air…
-- Ralph Waldo Emerson

On 9/28/2011 3:51 PM, Father Haskell wrote:

Set the blade to full depth. Runs cooler with less strain
on the motor. You don't gain any safety advantage by
setting a portable saw light, since your fingers are
well-shielded by a 2" thick slab of wood.

I seem to remember being taught to have the blade protrude only a
half-inch or so. It might have been shop class, or maybe my Dad, but
either way it would have been in the Seventies. I don't specifically
remember it being a safety tip.

It seems undeniable that the blade would contact less of the work if it
is used at full depth, especially with a thick piece of wood, and thus
present less of a strain to the motor. But are there any consequences
for the cut itself? It seems to me that the teeth would cut through the
top surface of the wood nearly vertically. Would that not tend to chip
it more than if the angle had been smaller?

On 9/29/11 2:12 PM, Greg Guarino wrote:
On 9/28/2011 3:51 PM, Father Haskell wrote:

Set the blade to full depth. Runs cooler with less strain on the
motor. You don't gain any safety advantage by setting a portable
saw light, since your fingers are well-shielded by a 2" thick slab
of wood.

I seem to remember being taught to have the blade protrude only a
half-inch or so. It might have been shop class, or maybe my Dad, but
either way it would have been in the Seventies. I don't specifically
remember it being a safety tip.

It seems undeniable that the blade would contact less of the work if
it is used at full depth, especially with a thick piece of wood, and
thus present less of a strain to the motor. But are there any
consequences for the cut itself? It seems to me that the teeth would
cut through the top surface of the wood nearly vertically. Would that
not tend to chip it more than if the angle had been smaller?


Seems to me I would want as many teeth as possible in contact with the
cutting area to get the smoothest cut. But that's just me.
I mean, I don't mind my saw blade getting all red hot and my saw bogging
down and melting the brushes.


--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com

---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply

"Greg Guarino" wrote in message ...

On 9/28/2011 3:51 PM, Father Haskell wrote:

Set the blade to full depth. Runs cooler with less strain
on the motor. You don't gain any safety advantage by
setting a portable saw light, since your fingers are
well-shielded by a 2" thick slab of wood.

I seem to remember being taught to have the blade protrude only a
half-inch or so. It might have been shop class, or maybe my Dad, but
either way it would have been in the Seventies. I don't specifically
remember it being a safety tip.

It seems undeniable that the blade would contact less of the work if it
is used at full depth, especially with a thick piece of wood, and thus
present less of a strain to the motor. But are there any consequences
for the cut itself? It seems to me that the teeth would cut through the
top surface of the wood nearly vertically. Would that not tend to chip
it more than if the angle had been smaller?
------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
It will chip out more but the chip out will be on the bottom. The overall
finish will be worse though. Now, can we have a three day thread on how to
sharpen a pointy stick?

On 9/29/2011 3:24 PM, CW wrote:
It will chip out more but the chip out will be on the bottom. The
overall finish will be worse though.

I'll stick with the shallower cut then.

Now, can we have a three day thread
on how to sharpen a pointy stick?

Ignorance is the default state for human beings as regards most topics.
Overcoming it frequently involves asking, politely. I have expended
quite a lot of verbiage answering questions from fledgling musicians
over the years, often on what seemed like "pointy-stick" level questions
to me. But I was a beginner once also, and would have appreciated some
good advice. Thanks for yours.

On Thu, 29 Sep 2011 17:08:20 -0400, Greg Guarino
wrote:

On 9/29/2011 3:24 PM, CW wrote:
It will chip out more but the chip out will be on the bottom. The
overall finish will be worse though.

I'll stick with the shallower cut then.

CW needs a new blade with more than 3 teeth left on it. Don't listen
to him.

A layer of masking tape on both sides will keep chipping to a minimum.
Peel the freshly-cut-in-half tape off -toward- the cut to keep from
pulling chips up. Now seal that bottom WELL so it can't absorb water!

--
Win first, Fight later.

--martial principle of the Samurai

On Thu, 29 Sep 2011 15:12:34 -0400, Greg Guarino wrote:

On 9/28/2011 3:51 PM, Father Haskell wrote:

Set the blade to full depth. Runs cooler with less strain
on the motor. You don't gain any safety advantage by
setting a portable saw light, since your fingers are
well-shielded by a 2" thick slab of wood.

I seem to remember being taught to have the blade protrude only a
half-inch or so. It might have been shop class, or maybe my Dad, but
either way it would have been in the Seventies. I don't specifically
remember it being a safety tip.

I was taught that the entire tooth should stick out so the gullets can clear.
Any more just caused increased chipping and more dust to fly.

It seems undeniable that the blade would contact less of the work if it
is used at full depth, especially with a thick piece of wood, and thus
present less of a strain to the motor. But are there any consequences
for the cut itself? It seems to me that the teeth would cut through the
top surface of the wood nearly vertically. Would that not tend to chip
it more than if the angle had been smaller?

Yes. More chipping. TANSTAAFL.

On 9/29/2011 5:34 PM, zzzzzzzzzz wrote:
On Thu, 29 Sep 2011 15:12:34 -0400, Greg wrote:

On 9/28/2011 3:51 PM, Father Haskell wrote:

Set the blade to full depth. Runs cooler with less strain
on the motor. You don't gain any safety advantage by
setting a portable saw light, since your fingers are
well-shielded by a 2" thick slab of wood.

I seem to remember being taught to have the blade protrude only a
half-inch or so. It might have been shop class, or maybe my Dad, but
either way it would have been in the Seventies. I don't specifically
remember it being a safety tip.

I was taught that the entire tooth should stick out so the gullets can clear.
Any more just caused increased chipping and more dust to fly.

It seems undeniable that the blade would contact less of the work if it
is used at full depth, especially with a thick piece of wood, and thus
present less of a strain to the motor. But are there any consequences
for the cut itself? It seems to me that the teeth would cut through the
top surface of the wood nearly vertically. Would that not tend to chip
it more than if the angle had been smaller?

Yes. More chipping. TANSTAAFL.

AITOOWDUTA?

(Am I The Only One Who Doesn't Understand These Acronyms?)

Yes, I looked it up, but geez, I'm becoming a neanderthal, I guess.

On Sep 30, 8:51*am, Greg Guarino wrote:
On 9/29/2011 5:34 PM, wrote:



On Thu, 29 Sep 2011 15:12:34 -0400, Greg *wrote:

On 9/28/2011 3:51 PM, Father Haskell wrote:

Set the blade to full depth. *Runs cooler with less strain
on the motor. *You don't gain any safety advantage by
setting a portable saw light, since your fingers are
well-shielded by a 2" thick slab of wood.

I seem to remember being taught to have the blade protrude only a
half-inch or so. It might have been shop class, or maybe my Dad, but
either way it would have been in the Seventies. I don't specifically
remember it being a safety tip.

I was taught that the entire tooth should stick out so the gullets can clear.
Any more just caused increased chipping and more dust to fly.

It seems undeniable that the blade would contact less of the work if it
is used at full depth, especially with a thick piece of wood, and thus
present less of a strain to the motor. But are there any consequences
for the cut itself? It seems to me that the teeth would cut through the
top surface of the wood nearly vertically. Would that not tend to chip
it more than if the angle had been smaller?

Yes. *More chipping. *TANSTAAFL.

AITOOWDUTA?

(Am I The Only One Who Doesn't Understand These Acronyms?)

Yes, I looked it up, but geez, I'm becoming a neanderthal, I guess.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

As I read the OP comment, my first thought was I wonder if the blade
was put in backwards. It would still cut but very slowly and
eventually could burn up the brushes. The teeth need to be pointed up
from the bottom at the front of the blade. When cutting with a
circular saw, the cutting action is done on the bottom of the wood,
which pulls the saw down onto the top of th wood surface.

Rob

On 9/28/2011 12:14 PM, Greg Guarino wrote:
The last time I did this I burned up my circular saw, or more
specifically, the brushes. I cut four doors that day, in fairly quick
succession. I'm no genius with a circular saw, but I thought I had done
it right. I used a fence as a guide and set the blade to protrude maybe
a half-inch below the bottom of the door. I tried not to go too fast.
This was a year ago, by the way.

I've since replaced the brushes and the saw works fine. It's a
pedestrian Skil model and has a fairly coarse 7-1/4" blade on it. I've
also got a much older saw with a 6-1/2" 40 tooth blade. I have another
brand-new HD solid-core door to cut down. It's the thinner variety that
they sell, 1-1/4"?

Tips, besides having an extra set of brushes around? Something to coat
the blade with to reduce friction, maybe? Cutting half the depth first?
(That doesn't sound like a good idea to me, but if you're too afraid to
ask, you don't learn)

Now that all the suggestions are in, I'll add the one that will really
work, although might be out side of your budget.

http://www.festoolusa.com/products/p...aw-561438.html

On Thu, 29 Sep 2011 08:50:52 -0500, Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet
wrote:
Now that all the suggestions are in, I'll add the one that will really
work, although might be out side of your budget.
http://www.festoolusa.com/products/p...aw-561438.html

KNEW that was coming!