On 9/28/2011 2:26 PM, -MIKE- wrote:
On 9/28/11 2:05 PM, Greg Guarino wrote:
On 9/28/2011 2:49 PM, dpb wrote:
On 9/28/2011 12:32 PM, Greg Guarino wrote:
On 9/28/2011 1:25 PM, dpb wrote:
On 9/28/2011 12:18 PM, dpb wrote:
...

I'd venture the brushes failing at that time had nothing in common w/
the fact that it was the door(s) being cut; it was just there time in
...

...it was just THEIR time...

That makes sense, except that the saw has gotten pretty light use over
the years. Maybe it was a grammar problem ...

Any thoughts on which blade/saw combo would be better?

Is this a composite solid-core (from the particle-wood tree, etc., ...
) or a solid-wood door?

In this case, it's the standard HD article, so more likely the former.


It shouldn't matter. Even Masonite, veneered doors often have a pine
frame around the perimeter. But back to my first point, it shouldn't
matter. The door had nothing to do with it.

Either the saw is really underpowered for whatever reason. or your blade
was really dull. Any carbide tooth blade in a decent saw would cut
through a solid door with minimal effort, whether it's cutting solid
wood, or termite vomit.

I wasn't asking for that reason but for consideration of finish...

A combination 24T will do reasonably well. If it is veneered you'll
have better luck minimizing splinter/tearout in the surface if you score
the line w/ a sharp knife first. Also, covering the cut area w/ a layer
of masking or painters tape serves to help minimize that as well as
provides a protection against marring a finished surface w/ the
baseplate of the saw.

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