On 9/28/11 4:02 PM, dpb wrote:
A combination 24T will do reasonably well. If it is veneered you'll have
better luck minimizing splinter/tearout in the surface if you score the
line w/ a sharp knife first. Also, covering the cut area w/ a layer of
masking or painters tape serves to help minimize that as well as
provides a protection against marring a finished surface w/ the
baseplate of the saw.


I've also applied a sacrificial base plate for a circular saw. This
protects the door from scuffs and it keeps the upper side of the veneer
from splintering.

1/8" to 1/4" Hardboard works great because of the smooth face. Carpet
tape works great for sticking the hardboard to the base plate of the
saw. Tape the hardboard on with the blade all the way up, then turn on
the saw and drop the blade into the hardboard. If you saw won't
completely hide the blade, use a smaller diameter blade with the same kerf.


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