On Wed, 28 Sep 2011 14:26:18 -0500, -MIKE-
wrote:

On 9/28/11 2:05 PM, Greg Guarino wrote:
On 9/28/2011 2:49 PM, dpb wrote:
On 9/28/2011 12:32 PM, Greg Guarino wrote:
On 9/28/2011 1:25 PM, dpb wrote:
On 9/28/2011 12:18 PM, dpb wrote:
...

I'd venture the brushes failing at that time had nothing in common w/
the fact that it was the door(s) being cut; it was just there time in
...

...it was just THEIR time...

That makes sense, except that the saw has gotten pretty light use over
the years. Maybe it was a grammar problem ...

Any thoughts on which blade/saw combo would be better?

Is this a composite solid-core (from the particle-wood tree, etc., ...
) or a solid-wood door?

In this case, it's the standard HD article, so more likely the former.


It shouldn't matter. Even Masonite, veneered doors often have a pine
frame around the perimeter. But back to my first point, it shouldn't
matter. The door had nothing to do with it.

Either the saw is really underpowered for whatever reason. or your blade
was really dull. Any carbide tooth blade in a decent saw would cut
through a solid door with minimal effort, whether it's cutting solid
wood, or termite vomit.
But the blade needs to be CLEAN. A pitch-encrusted blade takes more
than twice the power a clean blade takes - particularly in petrified
saw-dust. A good shot with something like "brake kleen" will disolve
the crud very quickly and you won't believe the difference in the cut.