On 9/28/11 8:22 PM, Father Haskell wrote:
On Sep 28, 7:40 pm, wrote:
On Wed, 28 Sep 2011 12:51:21 -0700 (PDT), Father Haskell









wrote:
On Sep 28, 1:14 pm, Greg wrote:
The last time I did this I burned up my circular saw, or more
specifically, the brushes. I cut four doors that day, in fairly quick
succession. I'm no genius with a circular saw, but I thought I had done
it right. I used a fence as a guide and set the blade to protrude maybe
a half-inch below the bottom of the door. I tried not to go too fast.
This was a year ago, by the way.

I've since replaced the brushes and the saw works fine. It's a
pedestrian Skil model and has a fairly coarse 7-1/4" blade on it. I've
also got a much older saw with a 6-1/2" 40 tooth blade. I have another
brand-new HD solid-core door to cut down. It's the thinner variety that
they sell, 1-1/4"?

Tips, besides having an extra set of brushes around? Something to coat
the blade with to reduce friction, maybe? Cutting half the depth first?
(That doesn't sound like a good idea to me, but if you're too afraid to
ask, you don't learn)

Set the blade to full depth. Runs cooler with less strain
on the motor. You don't gain any safety advantage by
setting a portable saw light, since your fingers are
well-shielded by a 2" thick slab of wood.

Correct - full depth cut causes the shortest tooth path through the
wood - meaning the least wasted power.

Right. Only reason a table saw blade is set to cut low
is to limit how deep a dado it can cut through your hand.

Well... there's always the fact that you might not want to cut all the
way through your saw horses or have to set your plywood up on the edges
of 2x4's to keep from cutting though your workbench or concrete floor.

In any case, I still contend it's a moot point. If you're blade is
running too hot or your saw is bogging down, it's time for a new saw
and/or blade.


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-MIKE-

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