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#21
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Doug Miller wrote:
In article , "dadiOH" wrote: Doug Miller wrote: Then remeasure. You will find that: - your block is 152mm long. - you want a 6mm border at each end. No he doesn't, he wants 1/4" and 6mm doesn't equal that. Close but no cigar, so much for metric unless you can measure 6.35mm on that tape ![]() Do you *really* think that 0.35 millimeters (less than 14 thousandths of an inch) is going to be noticeable? Or are you just trying to be argumentative? Had enough of that from SWMBO this past week, don't need it from you too. Just pointing out that metric isn't the be-all and end-all ![]() -- dadiOH ____________________________ dadiOH's dandies v3.06... ....a help file of info about MP3s, recording from LP/cassette and tips & tricks on this and that. Get it at http://mysite.verizon.net/xico |
#22
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On Sat, 20 Aug 2011 10:46:19 -0700, Paul wrote:
My math skills are non existent beyond basic math, and I'm trying to figure out how to space holes evenly along a center line in an area. Let's say I have a rectulanglar block, 6" long ,less 1/4" on each end for a border and I want to evenly space 6- 3/4" holes. How do you figure that? No math required - just arithmetic :-). If you want a 1/4" border at each end, the center of each of the end holes has to be 5/8" (1/4" + 3/8") from its end. That leaves 4 3/4" between those 2 holes. In that space you have to put 4 more holes with 5 spaces between holes. 4 3/4" divided by 5 gives a spacing of just over 15/16" (4.75 / 5 = 0.95). Since that doesn't come out even, you need to take the slop (1/16") and redistribute it to each end. So instead of the centers of the end holes being 5/8" from the end, they should be 21/32" from the end. Or you could just ignore the slop and have one space be 1/16" wider than the others :-). I hope you're aware that those holes are only going to have 3/16" of wood between each pair. -- Intelligence is an experiment that failed - G. B. Shaw |
#23
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On Sat, 20 Aug 2011 20:53:17 +0000, Doug Miller wrote:
No he doesn't, he wants 1/4" and 6mm doesn't equal that. Close but no cigar, so much for metric unless you can measure 6.35mm on that tape ![]() Do you *really* think that 0.35 millimeters (less than 14 thousandths of an inch) is going to be noticeable? Or are you just trying to be argumentative? I bought some wood taps and dies once to make some wooden vise screws. I used a 1" dowel (yes it was 1") for the screw. I cut threads in it and the hole to receive it with no problem. But the screw wouldn't fit. Turns out the tap and die were 25mm, not 1" (25.4). So yes, it can make a difference. I got a fresh dowel and turned it down to 25mm or a little less. -- Intelligence is an experiment that failed - G. B. Shaw |
#24
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On Saturday, August 20, 2011 3:41:49 PM UTC-7, Mike Marlow wrote:
whit3rd wrote: On Saturday, August 20, 2011 10:46:19 AM UTC-7, Paul wrote: My math skills are non existent beyond basic math, and I'm trying to figure out how to space [6] holes evenly First, locate hole #1 and #6 (mark the centers on the work). Then connect those centers with a line. Draw a second line through #1, and mark off six equal spacings on that second line (any spacing that comes out evenly on your ruler will do). Adjust a bevel so that one arm is on the secondary line, and the other arm connects #6 secondary to #6-actual. Then with that bevel set, trace from the other marks on the secondary line to the original line. I hope the OP could follow that - cause I sure couldn't... It's the compass-and-straightedge method to evenly divide a line segment: make a second line that is measured off into N equal bits, connect the Nth mark on second line to the end of the primary line segment to make a triangle, then (using a bevel in this case to replicate the angle) by simlar triangles, construct the equally spaced points on the original line segment. It doesn't really need any ruler at all (dividers can make equal-size divisions). |
#25
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In article , "dadiOH" wrote:
Doug Miller wrote: In article , "dadiOH" wrote: Doug Miller wrote: Then remeasure. You will find that: - your block is 152mm long. - you want a 6mm border at each end. No he doesn't, he wants 1/4" and 6mm doesn't equal that. Close but no cigar, so much for metric unless you can measure 6.35mm on that tape ![]() Do you *really* think that 0.35 millimeters (less than 14 thousandths of an inch) is going to be noticeable? Or are you just trying to be argumentative? Had enough of that from SWMBO this past week, don't need it from you too. Just pointing out that metric isn't the be-all and end-all ![]() No, but it sure makes the calculations a LOT easier. Reduces the risk of error, too, because you're always adding either integers or decimals -- not mixed fractions. |
#26
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In article , Larry Blanchard wrote:
On Sat, 20 Aug 2011 20:53:17 +0000, Doug Miller wrote: No he doesn't, he wants 1/4" and 6mm doesn't equal that. Close but no cigar, so much for metric unless you can measure 6.35mm on that tape ![]() Do you *really* think that 0.35 millimeters (less than 14 thousandths of an inch) is going to be noticeable? Or are you just trying to be argumentative? I bought some wood taps and dies once to make some wooden vise screws. I used a 1" dowel (yes it was 1") for the screw. I cut threads in it and the hole to receive it with no problem. But the screw wouldn't fit. Turns out the tap and die were 25mm, not 1" (25.4). So yes, it can make a difference. I got a fresh dowel and turned it down to 25mm or a little less. Totally different context. When you're talking about fitting a shaft into a hole, tolerances of 0.005" or less can be critical. When you're talking about a border around something, the difference between 1/4" and 6mm is unlikely to be important to anyone, or indeed even noticeable. |
#27
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On 2011-08-20 13:46:19 -0400, "Paul" said:
a rectulanglar block, 6" long ,less 1/4" on each end for a border and I want to evenly space 6- 3/4" holes Here's a way to do it by only actually measuring two points. The rest is mechaincal division. SInce you're spacing 3/4' holes within 5 1/2 inches, you've already defined a 1/4" border on each end. The radius of your hole is 3/8". Thus, the centerpoint of each outer hole is 5/8" from the edge. Mark those points. Now, draw a line though each point, parallel to the ends of the board. Since you're marking the center points of 4 holes and using the center point of the other outer hole as your terminus, choose a number easily divisible by five (like, oh, 7.5 or 10). Lay the zero point of your ruler on one line. Swing the ruler until your chosen number lies on the other line you've already drawn. Then, just mark the correct divisions (1 1/2, 3... or 2,4, 6...) and you've marked the center points for the other four holes. Draw lines through those points and parallel to the ends crossing your center line, and you're done. You can, of course, tell people how brutal the math was in calculating those points... but if you wanted to add the same dimension (x2) outside your row of holes as between each hole, the math is more than I want to deal with. |
#28
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whit3rd wrote in
. com: First, locate hole #1 and #6 (mark the centers on the work). Then connect those centers with a line. Draw a second line through #1, and mark off six equal spacings on that second line (any spacing that comes out evenly on your ruler will do). Adjust a bevel so that one arm is on the secondary line, and the other arm connects #6 secondary to #6-actual. Then with that bevel set, trace from the other marks on the secondary line to the original line. I hope the OP could follow that - cause I sure couldn't... It's the compass-and-straightedge method to evenly divide a line segment: make a second line that is measured off into N equal bits, connect the Nth mark on second line to the end of the primary line segment to make a triangle, then (using a bevel in this case to replicate the angle) by simlar triangles, construct the equally spaced points on the original line segment. It doesn't really need any ruler at all (dividers can make equal-size divisions). An interesting method. Here's the first hit for a webpage describing the method: http://www.mathopenref.com/constdividesegment.html Sometimes geometry is much easier than algebra. I apologize in advance if the flash app at the top is something undesired. I don't have flash installed on my system so I can't see it. Puckdropper |
#29
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On Aug 20, 1:46*pm, "Paul" wrote:
My math skills are non existent beyond basic math, and I'm trying to figure out how to space holes evenly along a center line in an area. Let's say I have a rectulanglar block, 6" long ,less 1/4" on each end for a border and I want to evenly space 6- 3/4" holes. How do you figure that? My daughter-in-law says you can do that in one of those cheap home design programs. That would be ideal for me. Anyone use one of those programs that knows if they can be used for that? Thanks. Equal divisions on a line using a ruler held at an angle. No calculation required. http://www.tpub.com/math1/19.htm and http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lYiDDjpWsuk Online calculators: http://www.virginiarailingandgates.com/calculations.asp There's an app for that: http://www.gabrioconstruction.com/BalusterPro/Home.html R |
#30
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On 08/20/2011 01:46 PM, Paul wrote:
My math skills are non existent beyond basic math, and I'm trying to figure out how to space holes evenly along a center line in an area. Let's say I have a rectulanglar block, 6" long ,less 1/4" on each end for a border and I want to evenly space 6- 3/4" holes. How do you figure that? My daughter-in-law says you can do that in one of those cheap home design programs. That would be ideal for me. Anyone use one of those programs that knows if they can be used for that? Thanks. You don't need math: Set the ruler (or tape measure) on a diagonal across the piece so that the 6" mark is even with one end the 0" is on the other end. Mark off 1" increments on the diagonal. You can also use even multiples of the spaces needed, say 30" and mark off every 2" for 15 spaces. John |
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