I have been using a Kreg miter gauge for about 6-8 years now and have
been berry happy with it. Until now.

Today I pulled the brass idexing pin out and adjusted for a 22.5 degree
cut and replaced the indexing pin. Felt tight. With difficulty I
pulled it out after the cut and returned it to the 90 degree setting.
Then I had to make that 22.5 degree cut again and the brass indexing pin
would not come out. Pliers and finally vice grips would not do any
thing but twist the pin. I finally had to use a drift to bound the pin
out from the bottom side and the pin is still way too tight to put back
down the hole.

Any recommendations on another brand?

Those that might suggest the Osbourne or the Delta version need not do
so, been there done that.

Incra has been a consideration but I do often cut wide boards and I
don't want the gauge hanging off the table.

JessEm looks great but is out of production, apparently they could not
maintain tolerances.

Sooooooooo

On Jun 1, 5:21*pm, Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet wrote:
I have been using a Kreg miter gauge for about 6-8 years now and have
been berry happy with it. *Until now.

Today I pulled the brass idexing pin out and adjusted for a 22.5 degree
cut and replaced the indexing pin. *Felt tight. *With difficulty I
pulled it out after the cut and returned it to the 90 degree setting.
Then I had to make that 22.5 degree cut again and the brass indexing pin
would not come out. *Pliers and finally vice grips would not do any
thing but twist the pin. *I finally had to use a drift to bound the pin
out from the bottom side and the pin is still way too tight to put back
down the hole.

Any recommendations on another brand?

Those that might suggest the Osbourne or the Delta version need not do
so, been there done that.

Incra has been a consideration but I do often cut wide boards and I
don't want the gauge hanging off the table.

JessEm looks great but is out of production, apparently they could not
maintain tolerances.

Sooooooooo

If you have been berry happy with the Kreg, are you sure you want to
back away now? Is there a fix?

RonB

On 6/1/2011 6:21 PM, Leon wrote:
I have been using a Kreg miter gauge for about 6-8 years now and have
been berry happy with it. Until now.

Today I pulled the brass idexing pin out and adjusted for a 22.5 degree
cut and replaced the indexing pin. Felt tight. With difficulty I pulled
it out after the cut and returned it to the 90 degree setting. Then I
had to make that 22.5 degree cut again and the brass indexing pin would
not come out. Pliers and finally vice grips would not do any thing but
twist the pin. I finally had to use a drift to bound the pin out from
the bottom side and the pin is still way too tight to put back down the
hole.

Any recommendations on another brand?

Those that might suggest the Osbourne or the Delta version need not do
so, been there done that.

Incra has been a consideration but I do often cut wide boards and I
don't want the gauge hanging off the table.

JessEm looks great but is out of production, apparently they could not
maintain tolerances.

Sooooooooo
Hard to beat an INCRA 1000SE

In article , lcb11211
@swbelldotnet says...

I have been using a Kreg miter gauge for about 6-8 years now and have
been berry happy with it. Until now.

Today I pulled the brass idexing pin out and adjusted for a 22.5 degree
cut and replaced the indexing pin. Felt tight. With difficulty I
pulled it out after the cut and returned it to the 90 degree setting.
Then I had to make that 22.5 degree cut again and the brass indexing pin
would not come out. Pliers and finally vice grips would not do any
thing but twist the pin. I finally had to use a drift to bound the pin
out from the bottom side and the pin is still way too tight to put back
down the hole.

First thing I'd do is call Kreg and see if they have any sage advice.

Any recommendations on another brand?

Those that might suggest the Osbourne or the Delta version need not do
so, been there done that.

Incra has been a consideration but I do often cut wide boards and I
don't want the gauge hanging off the table.

I don't understand what you mean by "hanging off the table". If you
mean you want a gage without an attached fence, Incra has several of
them, and the fence can be removed from any of them without any
difficulty.

On 6/1/2011 6:05 PM, RonB wrote:
On Jun 1, 5:21 pm, Leonlcb11211@swbelldotnet wrote:
I have been using a Kreg miter gauge for about 6-8 years now and have
been berry happy with it. Until now.

Today I pulled the brass idexing pin out and adjusted for a 22.5 degree
cut and replaced the indexing pin. Felt tight. With difficulty I
pulled it out after the cut and returned it to the 90 degree setting.
Then I had to make that 22.5 degree cut again and the brass indexing pin
would not come out. Pliers and finally vice grips would not do any
thing but twist the pin. I finally had to use a drift to bound the pin
out from the bottom side and the pin is still way too tight to put back
down the hole.

Any recommendations on another brand?

Those that might suggest the Osbourne or the Delta version need not do
so, been there done that.

Incra has been a consideration but I do often cut wide boards and I
don't want the gauge hanging off the table.

JessEm looks great but is out of production, apparently they could not
maintain tolerances.

Sooooooooo

If you have been berry happy with the Kreg, are you sure you want to
back away now? Is there a fix?

RonB


Pounding the brass pin out flared the tapered end and distorted the pin
and the hole it went into. I have a letter in to Kreg.

On 6/1/2011 6:07 PM, "__ Bøb __" wrote:


On 6/1/2011 6:21 PM, Leon wrote:
I have been using a Kreg miter gauge for about 6-8 years now and have
been berry happy with it. Until now.

Today I pulled the brass idexing pin out and adjusted for a 22.5 degree
cut and replaced the indexing pin. Felt tight. With difficulty I pulled
it out after the cut and returned it to the 90 degree setting. Then I
had to make that 22.5 degree cut again and the brass indexing pin would
not come out. Pliers and finally vice grips would not do any thing but
twist the pin. I finally had to use a drift to bound the pin out from
the bottom side and the pin is still way too tight to put back down the
hole.

Any recommendations on another brand?

Those that might suggest the Osbourne or the Delta version need not do
so, been there done that.

Incra has been a consideration but I do often cut wide boards and I
don't want the gauge hanging off the table.

JessEm looks great but is out of production, apparently they could not
maintain tolerances.

Sooooooooo
Hard to beat an INCRA 1000SE

I am actually looking real hard at that one, on line. ;~)

Which side of the blade do you use yours? My Kreg was easily and
quickly switchable, it took 3 or 4 seconds to readjust the fence from
one side to the other.

I prefer cutting on the left side of the blade but for longer pieces I
switch over to the right side.

On 6/1/2011 6:20 PM, J. Clarke wrote:
In articlenpKdnXUORqgfJnvQnZ2dnUVZ5oydnZ2d@giganews. com, lcb11211
@swbelldotnet says...

I have been using a Kreg miter gauge for about 6-8 years now and have
been berry happy with it. Until now.

Today I pulled the brass idexing pin out and adjusted for a 22.5 degree
cut and replaced the indexing pin. Felt tight. With difficulty I
pulled it out after the cut and returned it to the 90 degree setting.
Then I had to make that 22.5 degree cut again and the brass indexing pin
would not come out. Pliers and finally vice grips would not do any
thing but twist the pin. I finally had to use a drift to bound the pin
out from the bottom side and the pin is still way too tight to put back
down the hole.

First thing I'd do is call Kreg and see if they have any sage advice.

Any recommendations on another brand?

Those that might suggest the Osbourne or the Delta version need not do
so, been there done that.

Incra has been a consideration but I do often cut wide boards and I
don't want the gauge hanging off the table.

I don't understand what you mean by "hanging off the table". If you
mean you want a gage without an attached fence, Incra has several of
them, and the fence can be removed from any of them without any
difficulty.


Say your board is 12" wide, most all but the smallest of gauges have to
hang off the front side of the fence to allow room for the board to
sit. The higher end Incras typically stick out way back behind the
fence. Basically I am not too sure how much of the guide bar ends up
being out of the slot.

Leon wrote:

Say your board is 12" wide, most all but the smallest of gauges have
to hang off the front side of the fence to allow room for the board
to sit. The higher end Incras typically stick out way back behind the
fence. Basically I am not too sure how much of the guide bar ends up
being out of the slot.

You might try a table saw sled.

Here's one:
http://www.mywoodprojects.com/plans/crosscutsled.aspx

Leon wrote:


Pounding the brass pin out flared the tapered end and distorted the
pin and the hole it went into. I have a letter in to Kreg.

A letter? Aren't those museum items these days?

--

-Mike-

In article , lcb11211
@swbelldotnet says...

On 6/1/2011 6:20 PM, J. Clarke wrote:
In articlenpKdnXUORqgfJnvQnZ2dnUVZ5oydnZ2d@giganews. com, lcb11211
@swbelldotnet says...

I have been using a Kreg miter gauge for about 6-8 years now and have
been berry happy with it. Until now.

Today I pulled the brass idexing pin out and adjusted for a 22.5 degree
cut and replaced the indexing pin. Felt tight. With difficulty I
pulled it out after the cut and returned it to the 90 degree setting.
Then I had to make that 22.5 degree cut again and the brass indexing pin
would not come out. Pliers and finally vice grips would not do any
thing but twist the pin. I finally had to use a drift to bound the pin
out from the bottom side and the pin is still way too tight to put back
down the hole.

First thing I'd do is call Kreg and see if they have any sage advice.

Any recommendations on another brand?

Those that might suggest the Osbourne or the Delta version need not do
so, been there done that.

Incra has been a consideration but I do often cut wide boards and I
don't want the gauge hanging off the table.

I don't understand what you mean by "hanging off the table". If you
mean you want a gage without an attached fence, Incra has several of
them, and the fence can be removed from any of them without any
difficulty.


Say your board is 12" wide, most all but the smallest of gauges have to
hang off the front side of the fence to allow room for the board to
sit. The higher end Incras typically stick out way back behind the
fence. Basically I am not too sure how much of the guide bar ends up
being out of the slot.

About as much as on the miter gage that typically comes with the saw.

You're not obligated to use the Incra fence with the Incra miter gage.
If it's too thick you can bolt on a piece of blind stop molding or
whatever else you find to be of appropriate thickness.

On 6/1/2011 7:48 PM, HeyBub wrote:
Leon wrote:

Say your board is 12" wide, most all but the smallest of gauges have
to hang off the front side of the fence to allow room for the board
to sit. The higher end Incras typically stick out way back behind the
fence. Basically I am not too sure how much of the guide bar ends up
being out of the slot.

You might try a table saw sled.

Here's one:
http://www.mywoodprojects.com/plans/crosscutsled.aspx



Actually I have a left and right side Dubby jig/sled. I want something
quick and easy and absolutely dead on for squaring the ends of boards.

On 6/1/2011 8:12 PM, J. Clarke wrote:
In article5bKdnagi5snZUHvQnZ2dnUVZ5uGdnZ2d@giganews. com, lcb11211
@swbelldotnet says...

On 6/1/2011 6:20 PM, J. Clarke wrote:
In articlenpKdnXUORqgfJnvQnZ2dnUVZ5oydnZ2d@giganews. com, lcb11211
@swbelldotnet says...

I have been using a Kreg miter gauge for about 6-8 years now and have
been berry happy with it. Until now.

Today I pulled the brass idexing pin out and adjusted for a 22.5 degree
cut and replaced the indexing pin. Felt tight. With difficulty I
pulled it out after the cut and returned it to the 90 degree setting.
Then I had to make that 22.5 degree cut again and the brass indexing pin
would not come out. Pliers and finally vice grips would not do any
thing but twist the pin. I finally had to use a drift to bound the pin
out from the bottom side and the pin is still way too tight to put back
down the hole.

First thing I'd do is call Kreg and see if they have any sage advice.

Any recommendations on another brand?

Those that might suggest the Osbourne or the Delta version need not do
so, been there done that.

Incra has been a consideration but I do often cut wide boards and I
don't want the gauge hanging off the table.

I don't understand what you mean by "hanging off the table". If you
mean you want a gage without an attached fence, Incra has several of
them, and the fence can be removed from any of them without any
difficulty.


Say your board is 12" wide, most all but the smallest of gauges have to
hang off the front side of the fence to allow room for the board to
sit. The higher end Incras typically stick out way back behind the
fence. Basically I am not too sure how much of the guide bar ends up
being out of the slot.

About as much as on the miter gage that typically comes with the saw.

You're not obligated to use the Incra fence with the Incra miter gage.
If it's too thick you can bolt on a piece of blind stop molding or
whatever else you find to be of appropriate thickness.


So far you would have to be a mind reader to have a clue what I am
talking about, that is not your fault. ;~)

What I am really trying to say is I am more concerned with what is
actually behind the miter gauge fence. The fence is not the problem as
much as the miter gauge it self, behind the fence.

My Kreg jig guide bar is 24" long, 16" is in front of the fence and the
gauge itself is only 6" deep. The incra jigs tend to use up a lot of
the bar behind the fence. It appears in the pictures that perhaps a
much greater portion of some Incra guide bars may be hanging off the
front edge of the TS when cutting wide boards or panels. I see that a
possible problem if only 10~12 inches of the bar is in front of the
fence. Ill have to take a hands on look.

On 6/1/2011 8:12 PM, Mike Marlow wrote:
Leon wrote:


Pounding the brass pin out flared the tapered end and distorted the
pin and the hole it went into. I have a letter in to Kreg.

A letter? Aren't those museum items these days?


Umm er uh....e-Letter. ;~)

http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=30603

Don't know if this DeWalt DW7470 is any good, but for $75 it might be.


--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com

---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply

On 6/1/2011 11:02 PM, -MIKE- wrote:
http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=30603

Don't know if this DeWalt DW7470 is any good, but for $75 it might be.



Looks like a less expensive re-branded Osborne to me!
http://www.osbornemfg.com/

I personally use an Osborne and really like it for accuracy and
stability but, I also keep a sled handy and use it far more than I ever
thought I would.

--
Digger
Bob O'Dell

In article , lcb11211
@swbelldotnet says...

On 6/1/2011 8:12 PM, Mike Marlow wrote:
Leon wrote:


Pounding the brass pin out flared the tapered end and distorted the
pin and the hole it went into. I have a letter in to Kreg.

A letter? Aren't those museum items these days?


Umm er uh....e-Letter. ;~)

Actually paper letters are more likely to get results than email.

On 6/1/2011 10:02 PM, -MIKE- wrote:
http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=30603

Don't know if this DeWalt DW7470 is any good, but for $75 it might be.




Basicaly an Osbourn. I had an EB-2 Osbourne several years ago for a
couple of days. The concept is good but the execution has an inherant
flaw. The fence will swing to 45 degrees both ways. The telescoping
arm in its closed position, 45 degree setting is plenty sturdy. That
all goes out the window then going to the other 45 degree setting with
the telescoping arm extended to its extreme. The one I had and the
others in the store were very wobbly with the arm telescoped out. You
could easily grab the fence and move it back and forth.

Might explain why you can get the real MaCoy these days for under $100.
IIRC I paid about $180.

"Leon" lcb11211@swbelldotnet wrote in message
...
I have been using a Kreg miter gauge for about 6-8 years now and have been
berry happy with it. Until now.

Today I pulled the brass idexing pin out and adjusted for a 22.5 degree
cut and replaced the indexing pin. Felt tight. With difficulty I pulled
it out after the cut and returned it to the 90 degree setting. Then I had
to make that 22.5 degree cut again and the brass indexing pin would not
come out. Pliers and finally vice grips would not do any thing but twist
the pin. I finally had to use a drift to bound the pin out from the
bottom side and the pin is still way too tight to put back down the hole.

Any recommendations on another brand?

Those that might suggest the Osbourne or the Delta version need not do so,
been there done that.

Incra has been a consideration but I do often cut wide boards and I don't
want the gauge hanging off the table.

JessEm looks great but is out of production, apparently they could not
maintain tolerances.

Sooooooooo

L:


After some recommendations here on TS accessories, I went
a bump up and got the Incra 1000SE. Waiting and looking, it
came to me locally for 120 + the government. The HD was
a contender. But the superior refinements of degree selection
on the SE, confirmed by comparing accounts of experiences,
prodded the decision.

I like it. My saw is left-tilt and it goes on the left side. No
operation has commanded positioning it on the right yet.
I'd guess it might take 5 minutes to switch it the first time,
and a lot less once you get the motions on autoprogram.

The adjustable, expansive Teflon washers to snug up the
miter bar in the slot had one out of position and three
that did need the indicated tuning. If you expand them
so the slot gets into the no-go zone, flip them up
and set the slit line back further before adjusting.

If you want to cut degrees into tenths, it will. You
can use the flip stop as a hold down on your board
for operations where you aren't using it
as a stop.

There was one slip in the directions. You need to loosen
the clamp knob before peforming continuous angle
adjustments in step 2 of "Changing Angle Settings".
Honestly, if you a guy that far and didn't do it, put
the traffic cone on the head...but they mentioned it
where appropriate elsewhere and should have there.

A ball hex key is supplied for various adjustments.
Were I to make a lot of them, I'd be replacing some
of the frequently involved hex screws with thumbscrews.
If the stop rods were graduated, that would have been
nice too. The unit works well without those improvements.
Will you be able to make finicky cuts measuring better
than you can measuring and making a trial cut? No.

There's a toothed engagement strip to fix the positioning
of the flip stop when it's moved. They give you a
lifetime replacment on said strip. But if you honestly
loosen the flip stop enough so it clears the strip
when you move it, you'll never have to use the
guarantee.

Would I buy it again? Hear the hearbeat. And I checked
a range of reviews with a unanimous report of the
same cardiac response.

Good luck.

Regards,

Edward Hennessey

On 6/1/2011 10:47 PM, Edward Hennessey wrote:

"Leon" lcb11211@swbelldotnet wrote in message
...
I have been using a Kreg miter gauge for about 6-8 years now and have
been berry happy with it. Until now.

Today I pulled the brass idexing pin out and adjusted for a 22.5
degree cut and replaced the indexing pin. Felt tight. With difficulty
I pulled it out after the cut and returned it to the 90 degree
setting. Then I had to make that 22.5 degree cut again and the brass
indexing pin would not come out. Pliers and finally vice grips would
not do any thing but twist the pin. I finally had to use a drift to
bound the pin out from the bottom side and the pin is still way too
tight to put back down the hole.

Any recommendations on another brand?

Those that might suggest the Osbourne or the Delta version need not do
so, been there done that.

Incra has been a consideration but I do often cut wide boards and I
don't want the gauge hanging off the table.

JessEm looks great but is out of production, apparently they could not
maintain tolerances.

Sooooooooo

L:


After some recommendations here on TS accessories, I went
a bump up and got the Incra 1000SE. Waiting and looking, it
came to me locally for 120 + the government. The HD was
a contender. But the superior refinements of degree selection
on the SE, confirmed by comparing accounts of experiences,
prodded the decision.

I like it. My saw is left-tilt and it goes on the left side. No
operation has commanded positioning it on the right yet.
I'd guess it might take 5 minutes to switch it the first time,
and a lot less once you get the motions on autoprogram.

The adjustable, expansive Teflon washers to snug up the
miter bar in the slot had one out of position and three
that did need the indicated tuning. If you expand them
so the slot gets into the no-go zone, flip them up
and set the slit line back further before adjusting.

If you want to cut degrees into tenths, it will. You
can use the flip stop as a hold down on your board
for operations where you aren't using it
as a stop.

There was one slip in the directions. You need to loosen
the clamp knob before peforming continuous angle
adjustments in step 2 of "Changing Angle Settings".
Honestly, if you a guy that far and didn't do it, put
the traffic cone on the head...but they mentioned it
where appropriate elsewhere and should have there.

A ball hex key is supplied for various adjustments.
Were I to make a lot of them, I'd be replacing some
of the frequently involved hex screws with thumbscrews.
If the stop rods were graduated, that would have been
nice too. The unit works well without those improvements.
Will you be able to make finicky cuts measuring better
than you can measuring and making a trial cut? No.

There's a toothed engagement strip to fix the positioning
of the flip stop when it's moved. They give you a
lifetime replacment on said strip. But if you honestly
loosen the flip stop enough so it clears the strip
when you move it, you'll never have to use the
guarantee.

Would I buy it again? Hear the hearbeat. And I checked
a range of reviews with a unanimous report of the
same cardiac response.

Good luck.

Regards,

Edward Hennessey


Thanks for the review. At the moment my biggest problem with the Incras
equiped with the flip stop and expandable fence is the hassle of
switching sides.

The Kreg takes a couple of seconds with no tools, but it is not
expandable. The Incra appears to take perhaps 5 minutes to switch from
the left to the right side of the blade. And yes I use both sides about
evenly.

"Edward Hennessey" wrote in message
m...

"Leon" lcb11211@swbelldotnet wrote in message
...
I have been using a Kreg miter gauge for about 6-8 years now and have been
berry happy with it. Until now.

Today I pulled the brass idexing pin out and adjusted for a 22.5 degree
cut and replaced the indexing pin. Felt tight. With difficulty I pulled
it out after the cut and returned it to the 90 degree setting. Then I had
to make that 22.5 degree cut again and the brass indexing pin would not
come out. Pliers and finally vice grips would not do any thing but twist
the pin. I finally had to use a drift to bound the pin out from the
bottom side and the pin is still way too tight to put back down the hole.

Any recommendations on another brand?

Those that might suggest the Osbourne or the Delta version need not do
so, been there done that.

Incra has been a consideration but I do often cut wide boards and I don't
want the gauge hanging off the table.

JessEm looks great but is out of production, apparently they could not
maintain tolerances.

Sooooooooo

L:

Looks like there was one slip in my head.
The paragraph below is ammended for sense.


There was one slip in the directions. You need to loosen
the clamp knob before peforming continuous angle
adjustments in step 2 of "Changing Angle Settings".
Honestly, if A GUY GETS that far and DOESN'T do it, put
the traffic cone on the head...but they mentioned it
where appropriate elsewhere and should have there.

On 6/1/2011 10:47 PM, Edward Hennessey wrote:

"Leon" lcb11211@swbelldotnet wrote in message
...
I have been using a Kreg miter gauge for about 6-8 years now and have
been berry happy with it. Until now.

Today I pulled the brass idexing pin out and adjusted for a 22.5
degree cut and replaced the indexing pin. Felt tight. With difficulty
I pulled it out after the cut and returned it to the 90 degree
setting. Then I had to make that 22.5 degree cut again and the brass
indexing pin would not come out. Pliers and finally vice grips would
not do any thing but twist the pin. I finally had to use a drift to
bound the pin out from the bottom side and the pin is still way too
tight to put back down the hole.

Any recommendations on another brand?

Those that might suggest the Osbourne or the Delta version need not do
so, been there done that.

Incra has been a consideration but I do often cut wide boards and I
don't want the gauge hanging off the table.

JessEm looks great but is out of production, apparently they could not
maintain tolerances.

Sooooooooo

L:


After some recommendations here on TS accessories, I went
a bump up and got the Incra 1000SE. Waiting and looking, it
came to me locally for 120 + the government. The HD was
a contender. But the superior refinements of degree selection
on the SE, confirmed by comparing accounts of experiences,
prodded the decision.

I like it. My saw is left-tilt and it goes on the left side. No
operation has commanded positioning it on the right yet.
I'd guess it might take 5 minutes to switch it the first time,
and a lot less once you get the motions on autoprogram.

The adjustable, expansive Teflon washers to snug up the
miter bar in the slot had one out of position and three
that did need the indicated tuning. If you expand them
so the slot gets into the no-go zone, flip them up
and set the slit line back further before adjusting.

If you want to cut degrees into tenths, it will. You
can use the flip stop as a hold down on your board
for operations where you aren't using it
as a stop.

There was one slip in the directions. You need to loosen
the clamp knob before peforming continuous angle
adjustments in step 2 of "Changing Angle Settings".
Honestly, if you a guy that far and didn't do it, put
the traffic cone on the head...but they mentioned it
where appropriate elsewhere and should have there.

A ball hex key is supplied for various adjustments.
Were I to make a lot of them, I'd be replacing some
of the frequently involved hex screws with thumbscrews.
If the stop rods were graduated, that would have been
nice too. The unit works well without those improvements.
Will you be able to make finicky cuts measuring better
than you can measuring and making a trial cut? No.

There's a toothed engagement strip to fix the positioning
of the flip stop when it's moved. They give you a
lifetime replacment on said strip. But if you honestly
loosen the flip stop enough so it clears the strip
when you move it, you'll never have to use the
guarantee.

Would I buy it again? Hear the hearbeat. And I checked
a range of reviews with a unanimous report of the
same cardiac response.

Good luck.

Regards,

Edward Hennessey


You mention the HD as a contender, which one is that?

If I need to do accurate miters, I use my Dubby sled, each degree of
adjustment requires about 1/4" of fence movement, basically it would be
difficult to miss a setting with that much movement needed to change the
angle 1 degree. The degree scale is at the opposite end of the fence
pivot point.

Basically I like the flip stops and am not that concerned about multiple
angle cuts since 99.9% of my cuts are at 90 degrees. I just want to
know that if it looks like the gauge is set on 90 it absolutely is. The
Kreg indexing pin assured me of that.

Thanks again for the review.

On 6/1/2011 10:41 PM, J. Clarke wrote:
In articleMYOdnck8rJyvYXvQnZ2dnUVZ5gidnZ2d@giganews. com, lcb11211
@swbelldotnet says...

On 6/1/2011 8:12 PM, Mike Marlow wrote:
Leon wrote:


Pounding the brass pin out flared the tapered end and distorted the
pin and the hole it went into. I have a letter in to Kreg.

A letter? Aren't those museum items these days?


Umm er uh....e-Letter. ;~)

Actually paper letters are more likely to get results than email.


I have had pretty good luck with Kreg responding when using their on
line contact method.

On 6/1/2011 11:08 PM, Edward Hennessey wrote:

"Edward Hennessey" wrote in message
m...

"Leon" lcb11211@swbelldotnet wrote in message
...
I have been using a Kreg miter gauge for about 6-8 years now and have
been berry happy with it. Until now.

Today I pulled the brass idexing pin out and adjusted for a 22.5
degree cut and replaced the indexing pin. Felt tight. With difficulty
I pulled it out after the cut and returned it to the 90 degree
setting. Then I had to make that 22.5 degree cut again and the brass
indexing pin would not come out. Pliers and finally vice grips would
not do any thing but twist the pin. I finally had to use a drift to
bound the pin out from the bottom side and the pin is still way too
tight to put back down the hole.

Any recommendations on another brand?

Those that might suggest the Osbourne or the Delta version need not
do so, been there done that.

Incra has been a consideration but I do often cut wide boards and I
don't want the gauge hanging off the table.

JessEm looks great but is out of production, apparently they could
not maintain tolerances.

Sooooooooo

L:

Looks like there was one slip in my head.
The paragraph below is ammended for sense.


There was one slip in the directions. You need to loosen
the clamp knob before peforming continuous angle
adjustments in step 2 of "Changing Angle Settings".
Honestly, if A GUY GETS that far and DOESN'T do it, put
the traffic cone on the head...but they mentioned it
where appropriate elsewhere and should have there.



I think I understood the first time.. ;~) Im a partial mind reader.

On 6/1/11 10:46 PM, Leon wrote:
On 6/1/2011 10:02 PM, -MIKE- wrote:
http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=30603

Don't know if this DeWalt DW7470 is any good, but for $75 it might be.




Basicaly an Osbourn. I had an EB-2 Osbourne several years ago for a
couple of days. The concept is good but the execution has an inherant
flaw. The fence will swing to 45 degrees both ways. The telescoping arm
in its closed position, 45 degree setting is plenty sturdy. That all
goes out the window then going to the other 45 degree setting with the
telescoping arm extended to its extreme. The one I had and the others in
the store were very wobbly with the arm telescoped out. You could easily
grab the fence and move it back and forth.

Might explain why you can get the real MaCoy these days for under $100.
IIRC I paid about $180.

Thanks for the real life info.


--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com

---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply

"Leon" lcb11211@swbelldotnet wrote in message
...
On 6/1/2011 10:47 PM, Edward Hennessey wrote:

"Leon" lcb11211@swbelldotnet wrote in message
...
I have been using a Kreg miter gauge for about 6-8 years now and have
been berry happy with it. Until now.

Today I pulled the brass idexing pin out and adjusted for a 22.5
degree cut and replaced the indexing pin. Felt tight. With difficulty
I pulled it out after the cut and returned it to the 90 degree
setting. Then I had to make that 22.5 degree cut again and the brass
indexing pin would not come out. Pliers and finally vice grips would
not do any thing but twist the pin. I finally had to use a drift to
bound the pin out from the bottom side and the pin is still way too
tight to put back down the hole.

Any recommendations on another brand?

Those that might suggest the Osbourne or the Delta version need not do
so, been there done that.

Incra has been a consideration but I do often cut wide boards and I
don't want the gauge hanging off the table.

JessEm looks great but is out of production, apparently they could not
maintain tolerances.

Sooooooooo

L:


After some recommendations here on TS accessories, I went
a bump up and got the Incra 1000SE. Waiting and looking, it
came to me locally for 120 + the government. The HD was
a contender. But the superior refinements of degree selection
on the SE, confirmed by comparing accounts of experiences,
prodded the decision.

I like it. My saw is left-tilt and it goes on the left side. No
operation has commanded positioning it on the right yet.
I'd guess it might take 5 minutes to switch it the first time,
and a lot less once you get the motions on autoprogram.

The adjustable, expansive Teflon washers to snug up the
miter bar in the slot had one out of position and three
that did need the indicated tuning. If you expand them
so the slot gets into the no-go zone, flip them up
and set the slit line back further before adjusting.

If you want to cut degrees into tenths, it will. You
can use the flip stop as a hold down on your board
for operations where you aren't using it
as a stop.

There was one slip in the directions. You need to loosen
the clamp knob before peforming continuous angle
adjustments in step 2 of "Changing Angle Settings".
Honestly, if you a guy that far and didn't do it, put
the traffic cone on the head...but they mentioned it
where appropriate elsewhere and should have there.

A ball hex key is supplied for various adjustments.
Were I to make a lot of them, I'd be replacing some
of the frequently involved hex screws with thumbscrews.
If the stop rods were graduated, that would have been
nice too. The unit works well without those improvements.
Will you be able to make finicky cuts measuring better
than you can measuring and making a trial cut? No.

There's a toothed engagement strip to fix the positioning
of the flip stop when it's moved. They give you a
lifetime replacment on said strip. But if you honestly
loosen the flip stop enough so it clears the strip
when you move it, you'll never have to use the
guarantee.

Would I buy it again? Hear the hearbeat. And I checked
a range of reviews with a unanimous report of the
same cardiac response.

Good luck.

Regards,

Edward Hennessey


You mention the HD as a contender, which one is that?

If I need to do accurate miters, I use my Dubby sled, each degree of
adjustment requires about 1/4" of fence movement, basically it would be
difficult to miss a setting with that much movement needed to change the
angle 1 degree. The degree scale is at the opposite end of the fence
pivot point.

Basically I like the flip stops and am not that concerned about multiple
angle cuts since 99.9% of my cuts are at 90 degrees. I just want to know
that if it looks like the gauge is set on 90 it absolutely is. The Kreg
indexing pin assured me of that.

Thanks again for the review.

Leon:

The clock beat me up at 3 chimes after 12 yesterday,
so that must mean I rose at 15 o'clock???

If you can read my re-fried mind, my friend,
you must be
a cryptanalyst and a real good cook.

My comments were meant to apply to the
HD. In this parallel universe of you waking
people I got the designations mixed in the
no-funhouse mirror. To affirm, my misgiven
intent was to discuss the HD. The SE is the
one on which I passed. As far as I can determine--pulling
my eyelids open to make sure of what I write--the
only difference between the HD (mine) and the
SE (the contender) is the HD has a superior angle
protractor with vernier cursor adjustment. The
SE fits your requirements for less money.

http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_no...1000HD&x=0&y=0

Above is a page that will lead you to both units.
There are 9 reviews for the HD (mine as discussed)
and 74 for the SE. A survey will give you
the drift. They want 160 for the HD and 123
for the SE. As said, I paid 120 and tax for the
HD.

If you can play the waiting game, go to
www.camelcamelcamel.com and you can set a
price tracker for any Amazon item you want.
If the item has been queried in the camelx3 system,
you may get a decent time/price history for it.
Should you care to register there, you can set
price alerts for the stammering camel to let
you know when prices drop.

Right now, I'm going to drop into the
bedbedbed.

Regards,

Edward Hennessey

On 6/1/2011 7:18 PM, Leon wrote:
On 6/1/2011 8:12 PM, J. Clarke wrote:
In article5bKdnagi5snZUHvQnZ2dnUVZ5uGdnZ2d@giganews. com, lcb11211
@swbelldotnet says...

On 6/1/2011 6:20 PM, J. Clarke wrote:
In articlenpKdnXUORqgfJnvQnZ2dnUVZ5oydnZ2d@giganews. com, lcb11211
@swbelldotnet says...

I have been using a Kreg miter gauge for about 6-8 years now and have
been berry happy with it. Until now.

Today I pulled the brass idexing pin out and adjusted for a 22.5 degree
cut and replaced the indexing pin. Felt tight. With difficulty I
pulled it out after the cut and returned it to the 90 degree setting.
Then I had to make that 22.5 degree cut again and the brass indexing pin
would not come out. Pliers and finally vice grips would not do any
thing but twist the pin. I finally had to use a drift to bound the pin
out from the bottom side and the pin is still way too tight to put back
down the hole.

First thing I'd do is call Kreg and see if they have any sage advice.

Any recommendations on another brand?

Those that might suggest the Osbourne or the Delta version need not do
so, been there done that.

Incra has been a consideration but I do often cut wide boards and I
don't want the gauge hanging off the table.

I don't understand what you mean by "hanging off the table". If you
mean you want a gage without an attached fence, Incra has several of
them, and the fence can be removed from any of them without any
difficulty.


Say your board is 12" wide, most all but the smallest of gauges have to
hang off the front side of the fence to allow room for the board to
sit. The higher end Incras typically stick out way back behind the
fence. Basically I am not too sure how much of the guide bar ends up
being out of the slot.

About as much as on the miter gage that typically comes with the saw.

You're not obligated to use the Incra fence with the Incra miter gage.
If it's too thick you can bolt on a piece of blind stop molding or
whatever else you find to be of appropriate thickness.


So far you would have to be a mind reader to have a clue what I am talking about, that is not your fault. ;~)

What I am really trying to say is I am more concerned with what is actually behind the miter gauge fence. The fence is not the problem as much as the miter gauge it self, behind
the fence.

My Kreg jig guide bar is 24" long, 16" is in front of the fence and the gauge itself is only 6" deep. The incra jigs tend to use up a lot of the bar behind the fence. It appears in
the pictures that perhaps a much greater portion of some Incra guide bars may be hanging off the front edge of the TS when cutting wide boards or panels. I see that a possible
problem if only 10~12 inches of the bar is in front of the fence. Ill have to take a hands on look.

I have the Incra 1000HD. The miter bar is 17.75 inches. There is only 8.5 inches in
front of the fence. The fence is 1.5 inches thick so you could gain some by using
a thinner fence.

Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet wrote in
:

Thanks for the review. At the moment my biggest problem with the Incras
equiped with the flip stop and expandable fence is the hassle of
switching sides.

The Kreg takes a couple of seconds with no tools, but it is not
expandable. The Incra appears to take perhaps 5 minutes to switch from
the left to the right side of the blade. And yes I use both sides about
evenly.

What I have is the same or similar. Switching between left and right of
sawblade isn't much of a problem. A bigger one might be that it really
needs to have the full width(depth) of the fence on the saw table.
And, for smaller things I'd like some better holddown method ...

Opinion of a newbie at the craft, but I have had this miterfence for quite
a while ...

--
Best regards
Han
email address is invalid

Mine is indeed the Incra 1000 SE, with a Woodcraft label on it. It does
have a vernier on it for gauging 1/10 of degree increments.


--
Best regards
Han
email address is invalid

On 6/1/2011 11:41 PM, Dan Coby wrote:
On 6/1/2011 7:18 PM, Leon wrote:
On 6/1/2011 8:12 PM, J. Clarke wrote:
In article5bKdnagi5snZUHvQnZ2dnUVZ5uGdnZ2d@giganews. com, lcb11211
@swbelldotnet says...

On 6/1/2011 6:20 PM, J. Clarke wrote:
In articlenpKdnXUORqgfJnvQnZ2dnUVZ5oydnZ2d@giganews. com, lcb11211
@swbelldotnet says...

I have been using a Kreg miter gauge for about 6-8 years now and have
been berry happy with it. Until now.

Today I pulled the brass idexing pin out and adjusted for a 22.5
degree
cut and replaced the indexing pin. Felt tight. With difficulty I
pulled it out after the cut and returned it to the 90 degree setting.
Then I had to make that 22.5 degree cut again and the brass
indexing pin
would not come out. Pliers and finally vice grips would not do any
thing but twist the pin. I finally had to use a drift to bound the
pin
out from the bottom side and the pin is still way too tight to put
back
down the hole.

First thing I'd do is call Kreg and see if they have any sage advice.

Any recommendations on another brand?

Those that might suggest the Osbourne or the Delta version need
not do
so, been there done that.

Incra has been a consideration but I do often cut wide boards and I
don't want the gauge hanging off the table.

I don't understand what you mean by "hanging off the table". If you
mean you want a gage without an attached fence, Incra has several of
them, and the fence can be removed from any of them without any
difficulty.


Say your board is 12" wide, most all but the smallest of gauges have to
hang off the front side of the fence to allow room for the board to
sit. The higher end Incras typically stick out way back behind the
fence. Basically I am not too sure how much of the guide bar ends up
being out of the slot.

About as much as on the miter gage that typically comes with the saw.

You're not obligated to use the Incra fence with the Incra miter gage.
If it's too thick you can bolt on a piece of blind stop molding or
whatever else you find to be of appropriate thickness.


So far you would have to be a mind reader to have a clue what I am
talking about, that is not your fault. ;~)

What I am really trying to say is I am more concerned with what is
actually behind the miter gauge fence. The fence is not the problem as
much as the miter gauge it self, behind
the fence.

My Kreg jig guide bar is 24" long, 16" is in front of the fence and
the gauge itself is only 6" deep. The incra jigs tend to use up a lot
of the bar behind the fence. It appears in
the pictures that perhaps a much greater portion of some Incra guide
bars may be hanging off the front edge of the TS when cutting wide
boards or panels. I see that a possible
problem if only 10~12 inches of the bar is in front of the fence. Ill
have to take a hands on look.

I have the Incra 1000HD. The miter bar is 17.75 inches. There is only
8.5 inches in
front of the fence. The fence is 1.5 inches thick so you could gain some
by using
a thinner fence.

]
Hummmmm, half the length that mine is. thanks

On 6/1/2011 11:41 PM, Dan Coby wrote:
On 6/1/2011 7:18 PM, Leon wrote:
On 6/1/2011 8:12 PM, J. Clarke wrote:
In article5bKdnagi5snZUHvQnZ2dnUVZ5uGdnZ2d@giganews. com, lcb11211
@swbelldotnet says...

On 6/1/2011 6:20 PM, J. Clarke wrote:
In articlenpKdnXUORqgfJnvQnZ2dnUVZ5oydnZ2d@giganews. com, lcb11211
@swbelldotnet says...

I have been using a Kreg miter gauge for about 6-8 years now and have
been berry happy with it. Until now.

Today I pulled the brass idexing pin out and adjusted for a 22.5
degree
cut and replaced the indexing pin. Felt tight. With difficulty I
pulled it out after the cut and returned it to the 90 degree setting.
Then I had to make that 22.5 degree cut again and the brass
indexing pin
would not come out. Pliers and finally vice grips would not do any
thing but twist the pin. I finally had to use a drift to bound the
pin
out from the bottom side and the pin is still way too tight to put
back
down the hole.

First thing I'd do is call Kreg and see if they have any sage advice.

Any recommendations on another brand?

Those that might suggest the Osbourne or the Delta version need
not do
so, been there done that.

Incra has been a consideration but I do often cut wide boards and I
don't want the gauge hanging off the table.

I don't understand what you mean by "hanging off the table". If you
mean you want a gage without an attached fence, Incra has several of
them, and the fence can be removed from any of them without any
difficulty.


Say your board is 12" wide, most all but the smallest of gauges have to
hang off the front side of the fence to allow room for the board to
sit. The higher end Incras typically stick out way back behind the
fence. Basically I am not too sure how much of the guide bar ends up
being out of the slot.

About as much as on the miter gage that typically comes with the saw.

You're not obligated to use the Incra fence with the Incra miter gage.
If it's too thick you can bolt on a piece of blind stop molding or
whatever else you find to be of appropriate thickness.


So far you would have to be a mind reader to have a clue what I am
talking about, that is not your fault. ;~)

What I am really trying to say is I am more concerned with what is
actually behind the miter gauge fence. The fence is not the problem as
much as the miter gauge it self, behind
the fence.

My Kreg jig guide bar is 24" long, 16" is in front of the fence and
the gauge itself is only 6" deep. The incra jigs tend to use up a lot
of the bar behind the fence. It appears in
the pictures that perhaps a much greater portion of some Incra guide
bars may be hanging off the front edge of the TS when cutting wide
boards or panels. I see that a possible
problem if only 10~12 inches of the bar is in front of the fence. Ill
have to take a hands on look.

I have the Incra 1000HD. The miter bar is 17.75 inches. There is only
8.5 inches in
front of the fence. The fence is 1.5 inches thick so you could gain some
by using
a thinner fence.

Hummmmm, half the length that mine is. thanks

On 6/2/2011 6:44 AM, Han wrote:
Leonlcb11211@swbelldotnet wrote in
:

Thanks for the review. At the moment my biggest problem with the Incras
equiped with the flip stop and expandable fence is the hassle of
switching sides.

The Kreg takes a couple of seconds with no tools, but it is not
expandable. The Incra appears to take perhaps 5 minutes to switch from
the left to the right side of the blade. And yes I use both sides about
evenly.

What I have is the same or similar. Switching between left and right of
sawblade isn't much of a problem. A bigger one might be that it really
needs to have the full width(depth) of the fence on the saw table.
And, for smaller things I'd like some better holddown method ...

Do you not find switching the fence extension to the other side a
problem/PIA? In my case I might do this 3`4 times a day. With the Kreg
you loosen 2 wing nuts, slide the fence and tighten the wing nuts. But
then again I have no fence extension.I guess I could leave the fence
extension off un less I needed to use it....There is a thought.

For small pieces I use the eraser on the end of a new pencil as a hold
down.



Opinion of a newbie at the craft, but I have had this miterfence for quite
a while ...

On 6/1/2011 10:02 PM, -MIKE- wrote:
http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=30603

Don't know if this DeWalt DW7470 is any good, but for $75 it might be.

IMO they all have some undesirable traits but, for sheer repeatable
accuracy I've never been able to beat my Woodhaven ...

I know you don't like it, but mine works and yours doesn't! g, d & r

--
www.e-woodshop.net
Last update: 4/15/2010
KarlC@ (the obvious)

On 6/1/2011 11:40 PM, Edward Hennessey wrote:

"Leon" lcb11211@swbelldotnet wrote in message
...
On 6/1/2011 10:47 PM, Edward Hennessey wrote:

"Leon" lcb11211@swbelldotnet wrote in message
...
I have been using a Kreg miter gauge for about 6-8 years now and have
been berry happy with it. Until now.

Today I pulled the brass idexing pin out and adjusted for a 22.5
degree cut and replaced the indexing pin. Felt tight. With difficulty
I pulled it out after the cut and returned it to the 90 degree
setting. Then I had to make that 22.5 degree cut again and the brass
indexing pin would not come out. Pliers and finally vice grips would
not do any thing but twist the pin. I finally had to use a drift to
bound the pin out from the bottom side and the pin is still way too
tight to put back down the hole.

Any recommendations on another brand?

Those that might suggest the Osbourne or the Delta version need not do
so, been there done that.

Incra has been a consideration but I do often cut wide boards and I
don't want the gauge hanging off the table.

JessEm looks great but is out of production, apparently they could not
maintain tolerances.

Sooooooooo

L:


After some recommendations here on TS accessories, I went
a bump up and got the Incra 1000SE. Waiting and looking, it
came to me locally for 120 + the government. The HD was
a contender. But the superior refinements of degree selection
on the SE, confirmed by comparing accounts of experiences,
prodded the decision.

I like it. My saw is left-tilt and it goes on the left side. No
operation has commanded positioning it on the right yet.
I'd guess it might take 5 minutes to switch it the first time,
and a lot less once you get the motions on autoprogram.

The adjustable, expansive Teflon washers to snug up the
miter bar in the slot had one out of position and three
that did need the indicated tuning. If you expand them
so the slot gets into the no-go zone, flip them up
and set the slit line back further before adjusting.

If you want to cut degrees into tenths, it will. You
can use the flip stop as a hold down on your board
for operations where you aren't using it
as a stop.

There was one slip in the directions. You need to loosen
the clamp knob before peforming continuous angle
adjustments in step 2 of "Changing Angle Settings".
Honestly, if you a guy that far and didn't do it, put
the traffic cone on the head...but they mentioned it
where appropriate elsewhere and should have there.

A ball hex key is supplied for various adjustments.
Were I to make a lot of them, I'd be replacing some
of the frequently involved hex screws with thumbscrews.
If the stop rods were graduated, that would have been
nice too. The unit works well without those improvements.
Will you be able to make finicky cuts measuring better
than you can measuring and making a trial cut? No.

There's a toothed engagement strip to fix the positioning
of the flip stop when it's moved. They give you a
lifetime replacment on said strip. But if you honestly
loosen the flip stop enough so it clears the strip
when you move it, you'll never have to use the
guarantee.

Would I buy it again? Hear the hearbeat. And I checked
a range of reviews with a unanimous report of the
same cardiac response.

Good luck.

Regards,

Edward Hennessey


You mention the HD as a contender, which one is that?

If I need to do accurate miters, I use my Dubby sled, each degree of
adjustment requires about 1/4" of fence movement, basically it would
be difficult to miss a setting with that much movement needed to
change the angle 1 degree. The degree scale is at the opposite end of
the fence pivot point.

Basically I like the flip stops and am not that concerned about
multiple angle cuts since 99.9% of my cuts are at 90 degrees. I just
want to know that if it looks like the gauge is set on 90 it
absolutely is. The Kreg indexing pin assured me of that.

Thanks again for the review.

Leon:

The clock beat me up at 3 chimes after 12 yesterday,
so that must mean I rose at 15 o'clock???

If you can read my re-fried mind, my friend,
you must be
a cryptanalyst and a real good cook.

My comments were meant to apply to the
HD. In this parallel universe of you waking
people I got the designations mixed in the
no-funhouse mirror. To affirm, my misgiven
intent was to discuss the HD. The SE is the
one on which I passed. As far as I can determine--pulling
my eyelids open to make sure of what I write--the
only difference between the HD (mine) and the
SE (the contender) is the HD has a superior angle
protractor with vernier cursor adjustment. The
SE fits your requirements for less money.

http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_no...1000HD&x=0&y=0


Above is a page that will lead you to both units.
There are 9 reviews for the HD (mine as discussed)
and 74 for the SE. A survey will give you
the drift. They want 160 for the HD and 123
for the SE. As said, I paid 120 and tax for the
HD.

If you can play the waiting game, go to
www.camelcamelcamel.com and you can set a
price tracker for any Amazon item you want.
If the item has been queried in the camelx3 system,
you may get a decent time/price history for it.
Should you care to register there, you can set
price alerts for the stammering camel to let
you know when prices drop.

Right now, I'm going to drop into the
bedbedbed.

Regards,

Edward Hennessey




Thank you! I get it now, HD as in 1000HD. LOL I'll check the reviews.

On 6/2/2011 7:09 AM, Swingman wrote:
On 6/1/2011 10:02 PM, -MIKE- wrote:
http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=30603

Don't know if this DeWalt DW7470 is any good, but for $75 it might be.

IMO they all have some undesirable traits but, for sheer repeatable
accuracy I've never been able to beat my Woodhaven ...

I know you don't like it, but mine works and yours doesn't! g, d & r


I have a Domino.,... ;~)

Actually I was looking at the Woodhaven, I keep thinking you have the
JDS miter gauge. Actually the Kreg is very much like the Woodhaven.

Looks like Woodhaven also uses a brass indexing pin but uses brass in
the common indexing holes, perhaps that would prevent the seize problem
I had yesterday.

Now if only I could get more details that their web site offers....

On 6/2/2011 7:09 AM, Swingman wrote:
On 6/1/2011 10:02 PM, -MIKE- wrote:
http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=30603

Don't know if this DeWalt DW7470 is any good, but for $75 it might be.

IMO they all have some undesirable traits but, for sheer repeatable
accuracy I've never been able to beat my Woodhaven ...

I know you don't like it, but mine works and yours doesn't! g, d & r

Not @you, Mike ... Leon.

--
www.e-woodshop.net
Last update: 4/15/2010
KarlC@ (the obvious)

On 6/2/2011 7:20 AM, Leon wrote:
On 6/2/2011 7:09 AM, Swingman wrote:
On 6/1/2011 10:02 PM, -MIKE- wrote:
http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=30603

Don't know if this DeWalt DW7470 is any good, but for $75 it might be.

IMO they all have some undesirable traits but, for sheer repeatable
accuracy I've never been able to beat my Woodhaven ...

I know you don't like it, but mine works and yours doesn't! g, d & r


I have a Domino.,... ;~)

I have a Multi-Router ... take that!

Actually I was looking at the Woodhaven, I keep thinking you have the
JDS miter gauge. Actually the Kreg is very much like the Woodhaven.

Looks like Woodhaven also uses a brass indexing pin but uses brass in
the common indexing holes, perhaps that would prevent the seize problem
I had yesterday.

Now if only I could get more details that their web site offers....

Come and get it. It's yours anytime you want to use it/give it a try. As
you know, basically between shops and its not being used at all.

--
www.e-woodshop.net
Last update: 4/15/2010
KarlC@ (the obvious)

Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet wrote in
:

Do you not find switching the fence extension to the other side a
problem/PIA? In my case I might do this 3`4 times a day.

Yes it is a pain, but I bet that when you've done it a few times, it'll
take less than a minute in all.

With the Kreg you loosen 2 wing nuts, slide the fence and tighten the
wing nuts. But then again I have no fence extension.I guess I could
leave the fence extension off un less I needed to use it....There is a
thought.

Then the fence becomes real short ... Unlessyou fix somekind of auxiliary
fence to it, but then /it/ will have to switch between left and right .

For small pieces I use the eraser on the end of a new pencil as a hold
down.

THANKS!!


--
Best regards
Han
email address is invalid

On 6/2/2011 7:24 AM, Swingman wrote:
On 6/2/2011 7:20 AM, Leon wrote:
On 6/2/2011 7:09 AM, Swingman wrote:
On 6/1/2011 10:02 PM, -MIKE- wrote:
http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=30603

Don't know if this DeWalt DW7470 is any good, but for $75 it might be.

IMO they all have some undesirable traits but, for sheer repeatable
accuracy I've never been able to beat my Woodhaven ...

I know you don't like it, but mine works and yours doesn't! g, d & r


I have a Domino.,... ;~)

I have a Multi-Router ... take that!

Actually I was looking at the Woodhaven, I keep thinking you have the
JDS miter gauge. Actually the Kreg is very much like the Woodhaven.

Looks like Woodhaven also uses a brass indexing pin but uses brass in
the common indexing holes, perhaps that would prevent the seize problem
I had yesterday.

Now if only I could get more details that their web site offers....

Come and get it. It's yours anytime you want to use it/give it a try. As
you know, basically between shops and its not being used at all.


Well thank you but I don't want to change you miter slot settings from
your saw to mine and then back again....

I am not sure the thing is available any more. I visited all the
dealers that Woodhaven listed and none show the miter gauge and one
listed the Deluxe as discontinued.. ;~( Next time I am over I'll try to
take a closer look.

On 6/2/2011 8:41 AM, Leon wrote:


Looks like Woodhaven also uses a brass indexing pin but uses brass in
the common indexing holes, perhaps that would prevent the seize problem
I had yesterday.

I have had a Woodhaven basic model for a number of years and it stays
where you put it every single time.

The two big setting of 90 and 45 are set with a registration pin and
will not move.

I also have my original 1966 Delta miter guage that came with my 12/14
saw and it is "very" accurate even 46 years later.

It also weighs in at about 20 lbs.

I would get on the horn with Kreg...they are very nice folks.

I forget who they bought that miter guage deal from.

On Thu, 02 Jun 2011 07:09:34 -0500, Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet
wrote:

On 6/1/2011 11:40 PM, Edward Hennessey wrote:
If you can play the waiting game, go to
www.camelcamelcamel.com and you can set a
price tracker for any Amazon item you want.

Right now, I'm going to drop into the
bedbedbed.

Hopefully, that wasn't with a camelcamelcamel, Ed.


Thank you! I get it now, HD as in 1000HD. LOL I'll check the reviews.

Right, not sold at Home Depot. He fooled me at first, too.

--
Remember, in an emergency, dial 1911.