On 6/1/2011 10:47 PM, Edward Hennessey wrote:

"Leon" lcb11211@swbelldotnet wrote in message
...
I have been using a Kreg miter gauge for about 6-8 years now and have
been berry happy with it. Until now.

Today I pulled the brass idexing pin out and adjusted for a 22.5
degree cut and replaced the indexing pin. Felt tight. With difficulty
I pulled it out after the cut and returned it to the 90 degree
setting. Then I had to make that 22.5 degree cut again and the brass
indexing pin would not come out. Pliers and finally vice grips would
not do any thing but twist the pin. I finally had to use a drift to
bound the pin out from the bottom side and the pin is still way too
tight to put back down the hole.

Any recommendations on another brand?

Those that might suggest the Osbourne or the Delta version need not do
so, been there done that.

Incra has been a consideration but I do often cut wide boards and I
don't want the gauge hanging off the table.

JessEm looks great but is out of production, apparently they could not
maintain tolerances.

Sooooooooo

L:


After some recommendations here on TS accessories, I went
a bump up and got the Incra 1000SE. Waiting and looking, it
came to me locally for 120 + the government. The HD was
a contender. But the superior refinements of degree selection
on the SE, confirmed by comparing accounts of experiences,
prodded the decision.

I like it. My saw is left-tilt and it goes on the left side. No
operation has commanded positioning it on the right yet.
I'd guess it might take 5 minutes to switch it the first time,
and a lot less once you get the motions on autoprogram.

The adjustable, expansive Teflon washers to snug up the
miter bar in the slot had one out of position and three
that did need the indicated tuning. If you expand them
so the slot gets into the no-go zone, flip them up
and set the slit line back further before adjusting.

If you want to cut degrees into tenths, it will. You
can use the flip stop as a hold down on your board
for operations where you aren't using it
as a stop.

There was one slip in the directions. You need to loosen
the clamp knob before peforming continuous angle
adjustments in step 2 of "Changing Angle Settings".
Honestly, if you a guy that far and didn't do it, put
the traffic cone on the head...but they mentioned it
where appropriate elsewhere and should have there.

A ball hex key is supplied for various adjustments.
Were I to make a lot of them, I'd be replacing some
of the frequently involved hex screws with thumbscrews.
If the stop rods were graduated, that would have been
nice too. The unit works well without those improvements.
Will you be able to make finicky cuts measuring better
than you can measuring and making a trial cut? No.

There's a toothed engagement strip to fix the positioning
of the flip stop when it's moved. They give you a
lifetime replacment on said strip. But if you honestly
loosen the flip stop enough so it clears the strip
when you move it, you'll never have to use the
guarantee.

Would I buy it again? Hear the hearbeat. And I checked
a range of reviews with a unanimous report of the
same cardiac response.

Good luck.

Regards,

Edward Hennessey


You mention the HD as a contender, which one is that?

If I need to do accurate miters, I use my Dubby sled, each degree of
adjustment requires about 1/4" of fence movement, basically it would be
difficult to miss a setting with that much movement needed to change the
angle 1 degree. The degree scale is at the opposite end of the fence
pivot point.

Basically I like the flip stops and am not that concerned about multiple
angle cuts since 99.9% of my cuts are at 90 degrees. I just want to
know that if it looks like the gauge is set on 90 it absolutely is. The
Kreg indexing pin assured me of that.

Thanks again for the review.