Novice has small angle grinder (takes discs 115 mm with central hole
diameter 22mm). The discs i've already got for it are for grinding tiles and
metal.

Having knocked down a very old cedar garden shed, I want to cut up all the
wood. I'm wondering if i buy one of the diamond discs available for it,
whether that would be reasonably ok for cutting wood with? I cannot find
any discs that are said to be specifially for wood for this type of angle
grinder.

Some of the shed cladding wood is very thin (with nails all over the place)
so i think the usual circular saw for wood would be a bit too hefty and
vigourous on this thin wood of the shed. Grateful for any suggestions on
the best type of circular disc to go for. Thanks.

On Sat, 15 May 2010 21:00:53 +0100, "john hamilton"
wrote:

Novice has small angle grinder (takes discs 115 mm with central hole
diameter 22mm). The discs i've already got for it are for grinding tiles and
metal.

Having knocked down a very old cedar garden shed, I want to cut up all the
wood. I'm wondering if i buy one of the diamond discs available for it,
whether that would be reasonably ok for cutting wood with? I cannot find
any discs that are said to be specifially for wood for this type of angle
grinder.

No. A grinder will more likely start the wood on fire than cut it. There is
good reason you don't find wood "blades" for an angle grinder. It's
absolutely the wrong tool for the job.

Some of the shed cladding wood is very thin (with nails all over the place)
so i think the usual circular saw for wood would be a bit too hefty and
vigourous on this thin wood of the shed. Grateful for any suggestions on
the best type of circular disc to go for. Thanks.

A circular saw will work fine. Be careful with nails, though. A circular saw
will cut them (as long as you don't care about the blade) but it might throw
them too. Wear *lots* of protection. A "Sawsall" (reciprocating saw) is a
better tool for the job, though.

Diamond blade plus angle grinder on a treet stump killed someone
recently (kickback into neck). Suicidal.

You can use a cheap jigsaw with wood ripping blade if you cut them
over a table. Very quick unless stuff is 2in thick.
You can use a reciprocating saw - like a normal handsaw but two blades
driven like hedge trimmer blades, but they cost somewhat more (better
for chopping thro old studwork).

I would not suggest even a handheld circular because of the risk - you
are working "sloppy-fast" which could result in kickback or accidents.
The jigsaw would probably be best for thin cladding (shiplap etc), a
lot quicker than you realise.

On Sat, 15 May 2010 21:00:53 +0100, "john hamilton"
wrote:

Novice has small angle grinder (takes discs 115 mm with central hole
diameter 22mm). The discs i've already got for it are for grinding tiles and
metal.

Having knocked down a very old cedar garden shed, I want to cut up all the
wood. I'm wondering if i buy one of the diamond discs available for it,
whether that would be reasonably ok for cutting wood with? I cannot find
any discs that are said to be specifially for wood for this type of angle
grinder.

Some of the shed cladding wood is very thin (with nails all over the place)
so i think the usual circular saw for wood would be a bit too hefty and
vigourous on this thin wood of the shed. Grateful for any suggestions on
the best type of circular disc to go for. Thanks.


The best "circular disc" is the one on your "circular saw". It was
mentioned about using the right tool for the job.

Got a sharp axe, matches maybe?

john hamilton wrote:
Novice has small angle grinder (takes discs 115 mm with central hole
diameter 22mm). The discs i've already got for it are for grinding tiles and
metal.

Having knocked down a very old cedar garden shed, I want to cut up all the
wood. I'm wondering if i buy one of the diamond discs available for it,
whether that would be reasonably ok for cutting wood with? I cannot find
any discs that are said to be specifially for wood for this type of angle
grinder.

Some of the shed cladding wood is very thin (with nails all over the place)
so i think the usual circular saw for wood would be a bit too hefty and
vigourous on this thin wood of the shed. Grateful for any suggestions on
the best type of circular disc to go for. Thanks.


I see by your message headers you seem to be in the UK. Here in the
states we have something called 'Harbor Freight' that sells low-end
(mainly Chinese) power tools at very low prices. They aren't any good
for fine woodworking, but for something like this they would be more
than adequate. Search online, in your local phone book, or in the
second-tier shopping centers near where you live. Odds are there is
something like that over there. What you need is a reciprocating saw
with a demolition blade. It is one long blade (not two, like the other
post implied), that goes back and forth like a handsaw. It would make
short work of your pile of salvage lumber. You are trying to salvage it,
right? If this is just for burning, a plain axe will do what you need,
or even a plain handsaw.

The reciprocating saw likely would have made the demolition process a
lot less painful, as well. I only use mine once a year or so, but for
certain jobs, it is a lifesaver.

--
aem sends...

On May 15, 4:00*pm, "john hamilton" wrote:
Novice has small angle grinder (takes discs 115 mm with central hole
diameter 22mm). The discs i've already got for it are for grinding tiles and
metal.

Having knocked down a very old cedar garden shed, I want to cut up all the
wood. I'm wondering if i buy one of the diamond discs available for it,
whether that would be reasonably ok for cutting wood with? *I cannot find
any discs that are said to be specifially for wood for this type of angle
grinder.

Some of the shed cladding wood is very thin (with nails all over the place)
so i think the usual circular saw for wood would be a bit too hefty and
vigourous on this thin wood of the shed. * Grateful for any suggestions on
the best type of circular disc to go for. * Thanks.

A wood cutting plade for an angle grinder is available. I is a disk
with chainsaw teeth on it. Think it is used for carving. Definitly not
what you want.

Jimmie

On Sat, 15 May 2010 13:22:33 -0700 (PDT), js.b1 wrote:

The jigsaw would probably be best for thin cladding (shiplap etc), a
lot quicker than you realise.

The OP hasn't said what he intends to do with the cut wood. If it's
for a wood burner reasonably uniform size and few splinters is
desirable. Sawing would be the best, I used my table saw (and an old
blade) to cut down the shiplap from our shed refurbishment. That was
for the open fire.

If it's just to make managable for a bonfire, the quickest will be
snapping though over ones knee will probably end up with a bruised
knee fairly quickly. Much better to have a block on the ground a few
inches high and tough pair of boots and use your weight or a stomp to
break it up. I reckon that will be faster than a jigsaw and you still
have the problem of holding the timber.

--
Cheers
Dave.

On Sat, 15 May 2010 15:16:35 -0500, "
wrote the following:

On Sat, 15 May 2010 21:00:53 +0100, "john hamilton"
wrote:

Novice has small angle grinder (takes discs 115 mm with central hole
diameter 22mm). The discs i've already got for it are for grinding tiles and
metal.

Having knocked down a very old cedar garden shed, I want to cut up all the
wood. I'm wondering if i buy one of the diamond discs available for it,
whether that would be reasonably ok for cutting wood with? I cannot find
any discs that are said to be specifially for wood for this type of angle
grinder.

No. A grinder will more likely start the wood on fire than cut it. There is
good reason you don't find wood "blades" for an angle grinder. It's
absolutely the wrong tool for the job.

Tell that to Arbortech and King Arthur Tools. They sell carbide
carving discs and rotary chain saw heads for angle grinders. g


Some of the shed cladding wood is very thin (with nails all over the place)
so i think the usual circular saw for wood would be a bit too hefty and
vigourous on this thin wood of the shed. Grateful for any suggestions on
the best type of circular disc to go for. Thanks.

A circular saw will work fine. Be careful with nails, though. A circular saw
will cut them (as long as you don't care about the blade) but it might throw
them too. Wear *lots* of protection. A "Sawsall" (reciprocating saw) is a
better tool for the job, though.

Yeah, carbide circular saw or demolition-bladed sawzall are the way to
go.

--
Work and struggle and never accept an evil that you can change.
-- Andre Gide

"john hamilton" wrote in message
...
Novice has small angle grinder (takes discs 115 mm with central hole
diameter 22mm). The discs i've already got for it are for grinding tiles
and metal.

Having knocked down a very old cedar garden shed, I want to cut up all the
wood. I'm wondering if i buy one of the diamond discs available for it,
whether that would be reasonably ok for cutting wood with? I cannot find
any discs that are said to be specifially for wood for this type of angle
grinder.

Some of the shed cladding wood is very thin (with nails all over the
place) so i think the usual circular saw for wood would be a bit too hefty
and vigourous on this thin wood of the shed. Grateful for any
suggestions on the best type of circular disc to go for. Thanks.

Sounds scary and dangerous. I would not recommend it. But there is a carving
disc for the mini grinder.

http://www.woodcraft.com/Product/200...rking-Kit.aspx

The capacity for this thing to grab things and throw them into your body is
probably infinite. The only way I would use anything like this if the
material was locked down into a big, secure vise. I would also wear gloves,
face protection and heavy clothing.

In some ways this is like cutting small limbs with a chain saw. The saw
grabs anything that is not solidly secured and throws it. And a certain
percentage of the time it hits you. And it hurts.

The number one rule of cutting anything small like this is to secure the
stock before cutting it. Any movement of the stock can be dangerous.

On May 15, 10:03*pm, aemeijers wrote:
What you need is a reciprocating saw with a demolition blade.
It is one long blade (not two, like the other post implied),
that goes back and forth like a handsaw.

I think there are 2 types...
- Alligator saw - double blades like a hedge trimmer
- Demolition saw - single blade that just pumps away

Unsure which is cheaper, but more search strings :-)

Alligator saws are more useful for general cutting.
Demolition saws, well they are certainly good at that.

"js.b1" wrote in message
...
Diamond blade plus angle grinder on a treet stump killed someone
recently (kickback into neck). Suicidal.

You can use a cheap jigsaw with wood ripping blade if you cut them
over a table. Very quick unless stuff is 2in thick.
You can use a reciprocating saw - like a normal handsaw but two blades
driven like hedge trimmer blades, but they cost somewhat more (better
for chopping thro old studwork).

I would not suggest even a handheld circular because of the risk - you
are working "sloppy-fast" which could result in kickback or accidents.
The jigsaw would probably be best for thin cladding (shiplap etc), a
lot quicker than you realise.

I have a very cheap Wilkinson's 'Swallow' jigsaw which came with a good
selection of blades. After making up maybe 20' of fence going up a steep
slope, from old rescued fence boards of all different lengths, I was amazed
at how easy it was to put a nice profile right along the top using one of
the longer coarsish blades. Should be fine for your shed.

I also did almost buy a reciprocating saw in either Aldi of Lidl when they
were going v cheap last year. At the time though, I thought I'd always be
fit enough to use hand saws...

S

On 15/05/10 21:00, john hamilton wrote:
Novice has small angle grinder (takes discs 115 mm with central hole
diameter 22mm). The discs i've already got for it are for grinding tiles and
metal.

Having knocked down a very old cedar garden shed, I want to cut up all the
wood. I'm wondering if i buy one of the diamond discs available for it,
whether that would be reasonably ok for cutting wood with? I cannot find
any discs that are said to be specifially for wood for this type of angle
grinder.

Some of the shed cladding wood is very thin (with nails all over the place)
so i think the usual circular saw for wood would be a bit too hefty and
vigourous on this thin wood of the shed. Grateful for any suggestions on
the best type of circular disc to go for. Thanks.



I saw some discs in Alsford Timber the other day that were available in
9" and 12" (might have been a 4-odd inch too) that were advertised for
wood, especially tree roots. They had some almighty lumps (1/8-1/4") of
abrasive (maybe carbide) suck on the side. Looked bloody viscous - sadly
I can't remember the name.

A google for angle grinder and tree roots might turn up something... Or
ring Alsfords in Hastings (assuming you're in the UK) and ask them what
those ******* evil discs on the front counter in the display stand are
called...

--
Tim Watts

Hung parliament? Rather have a hanged parliament.

Tim Watts wrote in
:

On 15/05/10 21:00, john hamilton wrote:
Novice has small angle grinder (takes discs 115 mm with central hole
diameter 22mm). The discs i've already got for it are for grinding
tiles and metal.

Having knocked down a very old cedar garden shed, I want to cut up
all the wood. I'm wondering if i buy one of the diamond discs
available for it, whether that would be reasonably ok for cutting
wood with? I cannot find any discs that are said to be specifially
for wood for this type of angle grinder.

Some of the shed cladding wood is very thin (with nails all over the
place) so i think the usual circular saw for wood would be a bit too
hefty and vigourous on this thin wood of the shed. Grateful for any
suggestions on the best type of circular disc to go for. Thanks.



I saw some discs in Alsford Timber the other day that were available
in 9" and 12" (might have been a 4-odd inch too) that were advertised
for wood, especially tree roots. They had some almighty lumps
(1/8-1/4") of abrasive (maybe carbide) suck on the side. Looked
bloody viscous - sadly I can't remember the name.

A google for angle grinder and tree roots might turn up something...
Or ring Alsfords in Hastings (assuming you're in the UK) and ask them
what those ******* evil discs on the front counter in the display
stand are called...


diamond discs would gum up from resins and overheat quickly.
They are made for ceramics and metals,not wood.

--
Jim Yanik
jyanik
at
localnet
dot com

On 15/05/10 23:53, Jim Yanik wrote:
Tim wrote in
:

On 15/05/10 21:00, john hamilton wrote:
Novice has small angle grinder (takes discs 115 mm with central hole
diameter 22mm). The discs i've already got for it are for grinding
tiles and metal.

Having knocked down a very old cedar garden shed, I want to cut up
all the wood. I'm wondering if i buy one of the diamond discs
available for it, whether that would be reasonably ok for cutting
wood with? I cannot find any discs that are said to be specifially
for wood for this type of angle grinder.

Some of the shed cladding wood is very thin (with nails all over the
place) so i think the usual circular saw for wood would be a bit too
hefty and vigourous on this thin wood of the shed. Grateful for any
suggestions on the best type of circular disc to go for. Thanks.



I saw some discs in Alsford Timber the other day that were available
in 9" and 12" (might have been a 4-odd inch too) that were advertised
for wood, especially tree roots. They had some almighty lumps
(1/8-1/4") of abrasive (maybe carbide) suck on the side. Looked
bloody viscous - sadly I can't remember the name.

A google for angle grinder and tree roots might turn up something...
Or ring Alsfords in Hastings (assuming you're in the UK) and ask them
what those ******* evil discs on the front counter in the display
stand are called...


diamond discs would gum up from resins and overheat quickly.
They are made for ceramics and metals,not wood.


It wasn't a diamond disc - very clearly nothing like one to the eye - in
fact I've never seen anything like it before...

--
Tim Watts

Hung parliament? Rather have a hanged parliament.

"Tim Watts" wrote in message
...
On 15/05/10 23:53, Jim Yanik wrote:
Tim wrote in
:

On 15/05/10 21:00, john hamilton wrote:
Novice has small angle grinder (takes discs 115 mm with
central hole
diameter 22mm). The discs i've already got for it are for
grinding
tiles and metal.

Having knocked down a very old cedar garden shed, I want to
cut up
all the wood. I'm wondering if i buy one of the diamond discs
available for it, whether that would be reasonably ok for
cutting
wood with? I cannot find any discs that are said to be
specifially
for wood for this type of angle grinder.

Some of the shed cladding wood is very thin (with nails all
over the
place) so i think the usual circular saw for wood would be a
bit too
hefty and vigourous on this thin wood of the shed. Grateful
for any
suggestions on the best type of circular disc to go for.
Thanks.



I saw some discs in Alsford Timber the other day that were
available
in 9" and 12" (might have been a 4-odd inch too) that were
advertised
for wood, especially tree roots. They had some almighty lumps
(1/8-1/4") of abrasive (maybe carbide) suck on the side.
Looked
bloody viscous - sadly I can't remember the name.

A google for angle grinder and tree roots might turn up
something...
Or ring Alsfords in Hastings (assuming you're in the UK) and
ask them
what those ******* evil discs on the front counter in the
display
stand are called...


diamond discs would gum up from resins and overheat quickly.
They are made for ceramics and metals,not wood.


It wasn't a diamond disc - very clearly nothing like one to the
eye - in fact I've never seen anything like it before...

--
Tim Watts

Hung parliament? Rather have a hanged parliament.

I've seen 4" blades for angle grinders that incorporate a chainsaw
chain. They're used for coarse shaping for carvings. In fact, I
saw one in use making a totem pole in Alaska and it really worked
well.

I also have seen a 4" disk with extremely coarse carbide crystals
on it, but it was for use in an oscillating saw that just looked
like an angle grinder, and was used more for sanding than for
cutting.

--
Nonny
On most days,
it's just not worth
the effort of chewing
through the restraints..

aemeijers wrote:

john hamilton wrote:
Novice has small angle grinder (takes discs 115 mm with central hole
diameter 22mm). The discs i've already got for it are for grinding tiles
and metal.

Having knocked down a very old cedar garden shed, I want to cut up all
the wood. I'm wondering if i buy one of the diamond discs available for
it,
whether that would be reasonably ok for cutting wood with? I cannot find
any discs that are said to be specifially for wood for this type of angle
grinder.

Some of the shed cladding wood is very thin (with nails all over the
place) so i think the usual circular saw for wood would be a bit too
hefty and
vigourous on this thin wood of the shed. Grateful for any suggestions
on
the best type of circular disc to go for. Thanks.


I see by your message headers you seem to be in the UK. Here in the
states we have something called 'Harbor Freight' that sells low-end
(mainly Chinese) power tools at very low prices. They aren't any good
for fine woodworking, but for something like this they would be more
than adequate. Search online, in your local phone book, or in the
second-tier shopping centers near where you live. Odds are there is
something like that over there. What you need is a reciprocating saw
with a demolition blade. It is one long blade (not two, like the other
post implied), that goes back and forth like a handsaw. It would make
short work of your pile of salvage lumber. You are trying to salvage it,
right? If this is just for burning, a plain axe will do what you need,
or even a plain handsaw.

The reciprocating saw likely would have made the demolition process a
lot less painful, as well. I only use mine once a year or so, but for
certain jobs, it is a lifesaver.


What he said. I had to replace my evaporative cooler and got a
reciprocating saw to cut up the old one. I looked at Harbor Freight and
decided that going with a good Milwaukee Sawzall was going to be more cost
effective in the long run. It doesn't cut pretty, but it is quick and
effective at reducing large pieces of junk to small pieces of junk.



--

There is never a situation where having more rounds is a disadvantage

Rob Leatham

js.b1 wrote:

Diamond blade plus angle grinder on a treet stump killed someone
recently (kickback into neck). Suicidal.

Bull. Diamond wheel on an angle grinder is the wrong combination, but not
for that reason. Kickback has nothing to do with the wheel on the grinder,
but instead has everything to do with where on contacts the wheel.
Suicidal? Not at all. One stupid move on the part of a user does not make
a tool suicidal.


You can use a cheap jigsaw with wood ripping blade if you cut them
over a table. Very quick unless stuff is 2in thick.
You can use a reciprocating saw - like a normal handsaw but two blades
driven like hedge trimmer blades, but they cost somewhat more (better
for chopping thro old studwork).

A reciprocating saw more typically just has one blade that simply, well...
reciprocates.


I would not suggest even a handheld circular because of the risk - you
are working "sloppy-fast" which could result in kickback or accidents.
The jigsaw would probably be best for thin cladding (shiplap etc), a
lot quicker than you realise.

It's fairly difficult to develop kickback with a circular saw. Not
impossible, but not easy. A circular saw would make a good choice for
materials 1/2" and up. Below that, I'd probably just break the stuff over
my knee...

--

-Mike-

spamlet has brought this to us :
I also did almost buy a reciprocating saw in either Aldi of Lidl when they
were going v cheap last year. At the time though, I thought I'd always be
fit enough to use hand saws...

The reciprocating saw will fit and cut, where you cannot possibly get a
hand saw into. I have found mine to be particularly useful for cutting
tree roots, whilst still buried in the ground.

--
Regards,
Harry (M1BYT) (L)
http://www.ukradioamateur.co.uk

Mike Marlow wrote:
js.b1 wrote:

Diamond blade plus angle grinder on a treet stump killed someone
recently (kickback into neck). Suicidal.

Bull. Diamond wheel on an angle grinder is the wrong combination,
but not for that reason. Kickback has nothing to do with the wheel
on the grinder, but instead has everything to do with where on
contacts the wheel. Suicidal? Not at all. One stupid move on the
part of a user does not make a tool suicidal.

More like homicidal then. You wouldn't get me within 10' of one. Madness.


--
Dave - The Medway Handyman
www.medwayhandyman.co.uk

In article ,
The Medway Handyman wrote:
Mike Marlow wrote:
js.b1 wrote:

Diamond blade plus angle grinder on a treet stump killed someone
recently (kickback into neck). Suicidal.

Bull. Diamond wheel on an angle grinder is the wrong combination,
but not for that reason. Kickback has nothing to do with the wheel
on the grinder, but instead has everything to do with where on
contacts the wheel. Suicidal? Not at all. One stupid move on the
part of a user does not make a tool suicidal.

More like homicidal then. You wouldn't get me within 10' of one.
Madness.

Angle grinders scare me enough when used on the things they're meant for,
with the correct blade. Dunno what I'm doing on this group. ;-)

--
*Half the people in the world are below average.

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

In article , Harry
Bloomfield scribeth thus
spamlet has brought this to us :
I also did almost buy a reciprocating saw in either Aldi of Lidl when they
were going v cheap last year. At the time though, I thought I'd always be
fit enough to use hand saws...

The reciprocating saw will fit and cut, where you cannot possibly get a
hand saw into. I have found mine to be particularly useful for cutting
tree roots, whilst still buried in the ground.


Bet you go thru the blades doing that;!...

Which one have U got?..


73's
--
Tony Sayer

On Sun, 16 May 2010 10:09:46 +0100, "Dave Plowman (News)"
wrote:

In article ,
The Medway Handyman wrote:
Mike Marlow wrote:
js.b1 wrote:

Diamond blade plus angle grinder on a treet stump killed someone
recently (kickback into neck). Suicidal.

Bull. Diamond wheel on an angle grinder is the wrong combination,
but not for that reason. Kickback has nothing to do with the wheel
on the grinder, but instead has everything to do with where on
contacts the wheel. Suicidal? Not at all. One stupid move on the
part of a user does not make a tool suicidal.

More like homicidal then. You wouldn't get me within 10' of one.
Madness.

Angle grinders scare me enough when used on the things they're meant for,
with the correct blade. Dunno what I'm doing on this group. ;-)


Time you bought that pressure washer. :-)

tony sayer presented the following explanation :
In article , Harry
Bloomfield scribeth thus
spamlet has brought this to us :
I also did almost buy a reciprocating saw in either Aldi of Lidl when they
were going v cheap last year. At the time though, I thought I'd always be
fit enough to use hand saws...

The reciprocating saw will fit and cut, where you cannot possibly get a
hand saw into. I have found mine to be particularly useful for cutting
tree roots, whilst still buried in the ground.


Bet you go thru the blades doing that;!...

No, none have worn out yet. I've managed to cut 12" trees down with it,
lots of roots and cut 4" alloy bar stock.


Which one have U got?..

The blue black Aldi variable speed one. The spring which closes the
lever for foot adjustment seems to have weakened (may just be choked up
with saw dust), other than that it works well.

--
Regards,
Harry (M1BYT) (L)
http://www.ukradioamateur.co.uk

Nonny wrote:

"Tim Watts" wrote in message
...
On 15/05/10 23:53, Jim Yanik wrote:
Tim wrote in
:

On 15/05/10 21:00, john hamilton wrote:
Novice has small angle grinder (takes discs 115 mm with central hole
diameter 22mm). The discs i've already got for it are for grinding
tiles and metal.

Having knocked down a very old cedar garden shed, I want to cut up
all the wood. I'm wondering if i buy one of the diamond discs
available for it, whether that would be reasonably ok for cutting
wood with? I cannot find any discs that are said to be specifially
for wood for this type of angle grinder.

Some of the shed cladding wood is very thin (with nails all over the
place) so i think the usual circular saw for wood would be a bit too
hefty and vigourous on this thin wood of the shed. Grateful for any
suggestions on the best type of circular disc to go for. Thanks.



I saw some discs in Alsford Timber the other day that were available
in 9" and 12" (might have been a 4-odd inch too) that were advertised
for wood, especially tree roots. They had some almighty lumps
(1/8-1/4") of abrasive (maybe carbide) suck on the side. Looked
bloody viscous - sadly I can't remember the name.

A google for angle grinder and tree roots might turn up something...
Or ring Alsfords in Hastings (assuming you're in the UK) and ask them
what those ******* evil discs on the front counter in the display
stand are called...


diamond discs would gum up from resins and overheat quickly.
They are made for ceramics and metals,not wood.


It wasn't a diamond disc - very clearly nothing like one to the eye -
in fact I've never seen anything like it before...

--
Tim Watts

Hung parliament? Rather have a hanged parliament.

I've seen 4" blades for angle grinders that incorporate a chainsaw
chain. They're used for coarse shaping for carvings. In fact, I saw
one in use making a totem pole in Alaska and it really worked well.

I also have seen a 4" disk with extremely coarse carbide crystals on it,
but it was for use in an oscillating saw that just looked like an angle
grinder, and was used more for sanding than for cutting.

A sawblade has individual teeth is so that the debris from the material
being cut can be thrown clear of the next tooth. If the blade cannot
clear itself, there is just friction but no cutting.
In the old days B&D used to do a 5" circular saw blade as a drill
attachment. Can't imagine what it could have been used for, but at least
it wasn't spinning at 10,000 rpm

In article ,
stuart noble writes:
A sawblade has individual teeth is so that the debris from the material
being cut can be thrown clear of the next tooth. If the blade cannot
clear itself, there is just friction but no cutting.
In the old days B&D used to do a 5" circular saw blade as a drill
attachment. Can't imagine what it could have been used for, but at least
it wasn't spinning at 10,000 rpm

I have one of these on the shelf in the garage, but the drill gave up
(the day I just bought several new blades for it, of course).
It worked well for 10+ years, before dedicated circular saws were
available at affordable prices. B&D had a load of drill attachments
of that form. My father also had the circular saw one, but also the
jigsaw and the hedgecutter attachments (and probably some I've
forgotten).

However, this brings up an important point... An angle grinder spins
much faster than the safe operating speed for a circular saw blade,
so don't even think about going there.

--
Andrew Gabriel
[email address is not usable -- followup in the newsgroup]

On Sun, 16 May 2010 11:25:02 +0000 (UTC),
(Andrew Gabriel) wrote:

I have one of these on the shelf in the garage, but the drill gave up
(the day I just bought several new blades for it, of course).
It worked well for 10+ years, before dedicated circular saws were
available at affordable prices. B&D had a load of drill attachments
of that form. My father also had the circular saw one, but also the
jigsaw and the hedgecutter attachments (and probably some I've
forgotten).


My father had the B&D circular saw attachment and the finishing sander
attachment. I inherited them and used them for a few years.

When I finally got around to buying a Bosch circular saw, I wondered
why on earth I had struggled on with the clunky B&D attachment.

On May 16, 4:26*am, "Mike Marlow"
wrote:
js.b1 wrote:
Diamond blade plus angle grinder on a treet stump killed someone
recently (kickback into neck). Suicidal.

Bull. *Diamond wheel on an angle grinder is the wrong combination, but not
for that reason. *Kickback has nothing to do with the wheel on the grinder,

****wit.

A diamond disc will not cut wood due to the mimimal depth of the
cutting surfaces, it will instead burn through whilst spinning at
circa 10,000 RPM.

A diamond disc with sintered tabs, several long teeth interspersed by
gaps, will snag on the wood fibres - flinging unsecured wood at some
function of the 80m/sec disc speed, kicking back off sufficiently
immovable wood or shredding wood into a fibrous pulp rather than
efficiently cutting. With sintered tab on wood there is some risk of
ejecting a tab or a limited risk of catastrophic disc fracturing from
a tab gap (most discs have the tab slot ending at a circular hole to
reduce crack propogation across the disc causing separation which at
circa 10,000rpm would be unpleasant).

A diamond disc that is continuous (does not have a tabbed perimeter)
will just bounce off the surface or burn through.


This is exactly how someone killed themselves with a diamond disc in
an angle grinder, it kicked back off a tree stump and embedded itself
in their neck severing an artery. Most likely a tabbed diamond disc
where the slots snagged on a particularly resilient group of wood
fibres so launching the grinder up into the victim's neck.

Any blade for wood cutting at angle-grinder RPM will need to have a
very robust disc construction, very robust teeth to resist the peak
shear forces along with an appropriate tip cutting angle, and large
inter teeth gap to handle the extremely high material ejection levels
at such high RPM. That is to say teeth gaps of several millimetres
compared to the sub-milimetre gap for diamond cutting brick particle
ejection.


A reciprocating saw more typically just has one blade that simply, well....
reciprocates.

Alligator saw has double blades, demolition saw has single blade. An
alligator saw is a lot more useful to a DIYer.

js.b1 wrote:

On May 16, 4:26 am, "Mike Marlow"
wrote:
js.b1 wrote:
Diamond blade plus angle grinder on a treet stump killed someone
recently (kickback into neck). Suicidal.

Bull. Diamond wheel on an angle grinder is the wrong combination,
but not for that reason. Kickback has nothing to do with the wheel
on the grinder,

****wit.

Potty mouth.


A diamond disc will not cut wood due to the mimimal depth of the
cutting surfaces, it will instead burn through whilst spinning at
circa 10,000 RPM.

Don't use many angle grinders do you? Regardless of the 10,000 RPM, it
still does not approach the speed of a simple circular saw or a sawzall.


This is exactly how someone killed themselves with a diamond disc in
an angle grinder, it kicked back off a tree stump and embedded itself
in their neck severing an artery. Most likely a tabbed diamond disc
where the slots snagged on a particularly resilient group of wood
fibres so launching the grinder up into the victim's neck.

It's clear you don't use an angle grinder much. Any wheel in an angle
grinder is capable of kick back. All you have to do is contact the leading
edge of the rotating wheel. To my point - it's not a matter of the wheel in
use, it's a matter of where you contact it.


--

-Mike-

Don't use many angle grinders do you? Regardless of the 10,000 RPM, it
still does not approach the speed of a simple circular saw or a sawzall.


My simple circular saw RPM is less than half that. Peripheral speed
unknown though

Harry Bloomfield wrote:
spamlet has brought this to us :
I also did almost buy a reciprocating saw in either Aldi of Lidl
when they were going v cheap last year. At the time though, I
thought I'd always be fit enough to use hand saws...

The reciprocating saw will fit and cut, where you cannot possibly get
a hand saw into. I have found mine to be particularly useful for
cutting tree roots, whilst still buried in the ground.

And there's always harbor freight for a cheap source. Better than using an angle
grinder and having an accident.

Stuart wrote:
In article ,
stuart noble wrote:
In the old days B&D used to do a 5" circular saw blade as a drill
attachment.

Yup, had one of those

Can't imagine what it could have been used for,

It was usefull for cutting sheet material or ripping down the odd
floorboard :-)


Yes, I can imagine ripping a floorboard with that thing :-)

John Rumm wrote:
On 16/05/2010 14:48, stuart noble wrote:

Don't use many angle grinders do you? Regardless of the 10,000 RPM, it
still does not approach the speed of a simple circular saw or a sawzall.


My simple circular saw RPM is less than half that. Peripheral speed
unknown though

Multiply by the blade circumference... so for a 190mm blade at 4500 rpm
that is 4500 x 0.19 x pi = 2686 m/sec


I knew I could count on you :-)

"Harry Bloomfield" wrote in message
. uk...


The blue black Aldi variable speed one. The spring which closes the lever
for foot adjustment seems to have weakened (may just be choked up with saw
dust), other than that it works well.

I have an even cheaper PPro one I bought in a clearance and it does roots
really well.
It says maximum cut 100mm but it cuts anything the blade fits, I have some
10" green wood blades and it works fine.
For demolition I have some tungsten tipped blades and just cut through the
wood and metal.
The whole lot was ~£20.

On May 16, 4:42*pm, stuart noble wrote:
John Rumm wrote:
Multiply by the blade circumference... so for a 190mm blade at 4500 rpm
that is 4500 x 0.19 x pi = 2686 m/sec

Heh-heh, blade tip travelling at beyond even rail gun projectile
hypersonic speed would be fun.

I knew I could count on you :-)

RPS = 4500rpm / 60 = 75
Circumference is 2*Pi*R = 2 * 3.14 * 0.19/2 = 0.59m
Circumferential speed = 75 * 0.49 = 44m/sec.

At 4,500rpm you have almost 100 miles per hour. At 10,000rpm you have
200 miles per hour. Quite a few angle grinders run 12,000rpm, still
far below the sound barrier.

Due to the way an angle grinder is mechanically driven, stopping one
in motion as with a tree root will hurl the saw at speed. A chainsaw
will not do this hence eminently less dangeous than a freakin angle
grinder.

Alligator saw is expensive but handles both demolition & general
precise wood cutting, a jigsaw with a wood ripping blade is cheaper.

Bob F wrote:
Harry Bloomfield wrote:
spamlet has brought this to us :
I also did almost buy a reciprocating saw in either Aldi of Lidl
when they were going v cheap last year. At the time though, I
thought I'd always be fit enough to use hand saws...
The reciprocating saw will fit and cut, where you cannot possibly get
a hand saw into. I have found mine to be particularly useful for
cutting tree roots, whilst still buried in the ground.

And there's always harbor freight for a cheap source. Better than using an angle
grinder and having an accident.


OP is in the UK- No HF over there, but they likely have something similar.

--
aem sends...

stuart noble wrote:
Don't use many angle grinders do you? Regardless of the 10,000 RPM,
it still does not approach the speed of a simple circular saw or a
sawzall.

My simple circular saw RPM is less than half that. Peripheral speed
unknown though

You are correct - my error in the way I stated that. I meant to say it does
not approach the speed of the cut of a circular saw.

--

-Mike-

On Sun, 16 May 2010 09:35:11 +0100, Harry Bloomfield
wrote:

spamlet has brought this to us :
I also did almost buy a reciprocating saw in either Aldi of Lidl when they
were going v cheap last year. At the time though, I thought I'd always be
fit enough to use hand saws...

The reciprocating saw will fit and cut, where you cannot possibly get a
hand saw into. I have found mine to be particularly useful for cutting
tree roots, whilst still buried in the ground.
With the right blade the sawzall will cut just about anything, just
about anywhere.
And unlike the cheap clones, it will do it decade after decade.

On Sun, 16 May 2010 09:07:00 -0400, "Mike Marlow"
wrote:

js.b1 wrote:

On May 16, 4:26 am, "Mike Marlow"
wrote:
js.b1 wrote:
Diamond blade plus angle grinder on a treet stump killed someone
recently (kickback into neck). Suicidal.

Bull. Diamond wheel on an angle grinder is the wrong combination,
but not for that reason. Kickback has nothing to do with the wheel
on the grinder,

****wit.

Potty mouth.


A diamond disc will not cut wood due to the mimimal depth of the
cutting surfaces, it will instead burn through whilst spinning at
circa 10,000 RPM.

Don't use many angle grinders do you? Regardless of the 10,000 RPM, it
still does not approach the speed of a simple circular saw or a sawzall.


This is exactly how someone killed themselves with a diamond disc in
an angle grinder, it kicked back off a tree stump and embedded itself
in their neck severing an artery. Most likely a tabbed diamond disc
where the slots snagged on a particularly resilient group of wood
fibres so launching the grinder up into the victim's neck.

It's clear you don't use an angle grinder much. Any wheel in an angle
grinder is capable of kick back. All you have to do is contact the leading
edge of the rotating wheel. To my point - it's not a matter of the wheel in
use, it's a matter of where you contact it.
And MOST people who know enough to use the angle grinder safely would
also know enough, and have the equipment available, to use the right
tool for the job.

To safely act as a saw, a rotating tool should also have a "shoe",
like a circular saw.

And it's not the RPM that counts, it's the surface (cutting) speed. A
5" blade needs to run a LOT faster than a 10" blade to give the same
cutting speed, or to have the same danger of throwing a tip

On Sun, 16 May 2010 14:48:43 +0100, stuart noble
wrote:


Don't use many angle grinders do you? Regardless of the 10,000 RPM, it
still does not approach the speed of a simple circular saw or a sawzall.


My simple circular saw RPM is less than half that. Peripheral speed
unknown though
Just checked a couple saws. One, a 6.5" runs 3700RPM for a cutting
speed of 6269sfpm.
Another, 7.25" @ 5000 rpm for 9490sfpm.
a 5" grinder @10,000 rpm is 13090 sfpm -

wrote:
On Sun, 16 May 2010 09:35:11 +0100, Harry Bloomfield
wrote:

spamlet has brought this to us :
I also did almost buy a reciprocating saw in either Aldi of Lidl when they
were going v cheap last year. At the time though, I thought I'd always be
fit enough to use hand saws...
The reciprocating saw will fit and cut, where you cannot possibly get a
hand saw into. I have found mine to be particularly useful for cutting
tree roots, whilst still buried in the ground.
With the right blade the sawzall will cut just about anything, just
about anywhere.
And unlike the cheap clones, it will do it decade after decade.

Valid, but only relevant if you are making money with it, or use it a
LOT. For occasional users like me, a cheap knockoff like my B&D corded
that I bought almost new at a garage sale for 20? bucks, is probably
more than sufficient. It probably wouldn't last a month on an active
jobsite, but at a dozen or so cuts a year, it will outlast me.

Don't get me wrong- Milwaukee tools (at least the pro-grade they used to
sell at the supply houses- never looked at the big-box versions) are
great, but for those of us with limited demands and a limited budget,
they are overkill. Like buying Snap-on wrenches to change the lawnmower
sparkplug once a year.

--
aem sends...