john hamilton wrote:
Novice has small angle grinder (takes discs 115 mm with central hole
diameter 22mm). The discs i've already got for it are for grinding
tiles and metal.

Having knocked down a very old cedar garden shed, I want to cut up
all the wood. I'm wondering if i buy one of the diamond discs
available for it, whether that would be reasonably ok for cutting
wood with? I cannot find any discs that are said to be specifially
for wood for this type of angle grinder.

Some of the shed cladding wood is very thin (with nails all over the
place) so i think the usual circular saw for wood would be a bit too
hefty and vigourous on this thin wood of the shed. Grateful for any
suggestions on the best type of circular disc to go for. Thanks.

Well, no.

First, the basic rule is the inverse relationship between tooth size and
material hardness: The harder the material, the smaller the teeth
(generally). For cutting granite, you use diamonds; for cutting soft wood
you use something like 24/tpi.

Second, a circular saw with a demolition blade won't even hiccup with a
nail.

Third, if the wood is too flimsy, stack up several pieces and cut the lot.

Me? I'd burn the stuff in situ and be done with it.

Bruce wrote:
On Sun, 16 May 2010 11:25:02 +0000 (UTC),
(Andrew Gabriel) wrote:
I have one of these on the shelf in the garage, but the drill gave up
(the day I just bought several new blades for it, of course).
It worked well for 10+ years, before dedicated circular saws were
available at affordable prices. B&D had a load of drill attachments
of that form. My father also had the circular saw one, but also the
jigsaw and the hedgecutter attachments (and probably some I've
forgotten).

Somewhere I think I also still have the Vertical Drill Stand and the
Horizontal Drill Stand (aka bench-grinder conversion tool)!

My father had the B&D circular saw attachment and the finishing sander
attachment. I inherited them and used them for a few years.

When I finally got around to buying a Bosch circular saw, I wondered
why on earth I had struggled on with the clunky B&D attachment.

As Andrew alluded to, because of the prohibitive cost back then. I can
remember my parents buying their first (and only - Mum still has it!)
B&D drill in the early 70s. It was a 2-speed hammer job, and IIRC it
cost 30-40 GBP, which would be worth probably ten times that in todays
money. They certainly weren't a common part of people's household stuff
as they are today. Presumably other portable power tools must have been
similarly priced, accounting for the plethora of attachments you used to
buy for them. God it was a PITA always swapping them over though!

David

Harry Bloomfield wrote:
tony sayer presented the following explanation :
In article , Harry
Bloomfield scribeth thus
spamlet has brought this to us :
I also did almost buy a reciprocating saw in either Aldi of Lidl
when they were going v cheap last year. At the time though, I
thought I'd always be fit enough to use hand saws...

The reciprocating saw will fit and cut, where you cannot possibly get
a hand saw into. I have found mine to be particularly useful for
cutting tree roots, whilst still buried in the ground.


Bet you go thru the blades doing that;!...

No, none have worn out yet. I've managed to cut 12" trees down with it,
lots of roots and cut 4" alloy bar stock.

What's the travel like on the blades of those saws? I certainly have a
need for a rough'n ready powered saw for that sort of use, but had
always thought they looked a bit too small, and Alligator-types were a
bit OTT/out of my price range. But taking out a 12" tree sounds
reasonably impressive...

David

Lobster formulated on Sunday :
What's the travel like on the blades of those saws? I certainly have a need
for a rough'n ready powered saw for that sort of use, but had always thought
they looked a bit too small, and Alligator-types were a bit OTT/out of my
price range. But taking out a 12" tree sounds reasonably impressive...

Travel is about 2" and the blade was 9" long, so I had to cut from
three sides to get all the way through.

--
Regards,
Harry (M1BYT) (L)
http://www.ukradioamateur.co.uk

DanG wrote:
Your mind is made up so I know this is a waste of time. Your wild
ass statement about a diamond blade kicking back and cutting a
man's neck is pure hyperbola, fiction, and prevarication. A
diamond blade would be very hard pressed to cut your hand if you
ran it into your hand at full speed. They do an excellent job
cutting really hard things like glass and tile, they really suck
on anything else.

It wasn't a diamond blade
http://www.metro.co.uk/news/627085-m...sed-power-tool


--
Dave - The Medway Handyman
www.medwayhandyman.co.uk

On Sun, 16 May 2010 13:20:40 -0400, aemeijers
wrote:

wrote:
On Sun, 16 May 2010 09:35:11 +0100, Harry Bloomfield
wrote:

spamlet has brought this to us :
I also did almost buy a reciprocating saw in either Aldi of Lidl when they
were going v cheap last year. At the time though, I thought I'd always be
fit enough to use hand saws...
The reciprocating saw will fit and cut, where you cannot possibly get a
hand saw into. I have found mine to be particularly useful for cutting
tree roots, whilst still buried in the ground.
With the right blade the sawzall will cut just about anything, just
about anywhere.
And unlike the cheap clones, it will do it decade after decade.

Valid, but only relevant if you are making money with it, or use it a
LOT. For occasional users like me, a cheap knockoff like my B&D corded
that I bought almost new at a garage sale for 20? bucks, is probably
more than sufficient. It probably wouldn't last a month on an active
jobsite, but at a dozen or so cuts a year, it will outlast me.

My Millwaukee Sawzall cost me $15.00. Got it for nothing and bought
the part that had worn out and fixed it. With the cheap ones, when
they quit they are DONE because generally parts are unavailable.

Don't get me wrong- Milwaukee tools (at least the pro-grade they used to
sell at the supply houses- never looked at the big-box versions) are
great, but for those of us with limited demands and a limited budget,
they are overkill. Like buying Snap-on wrenches to change the lawnmower
sparkplug once a year.

John Rumm wrote:

On 17/05/2010 02:15, DanG wrote:
-snip-

I have no idea what an alligator saw is. I've been in the
commercial contracting business for over 50 years so please
enlighten me as I may need one some day.

Its a reciprocating saw with twin counter moving blades.

http://www.dewalt.co.uk/powertools/p...s/catno/DW390/

Cool tool. I don't think they are available in the US. all I get
when I search for Alligator saw is those chainsaw/loppers with the
scissor action-
http://www.buzzillions.com/reviews/b...lp1000-reviews

The downside of a reciprocating saw is their tendency to pull light
material back and forth if it isn't secured.

Can you, for instance, cut a small branch off a tree and keep both
hands on the saw without it shaking the bejeebers out of the tree?

Jim

On Sun, 16 May 2010 21:42:40 +0100, John Rumm
wrote:

On 15/05/2010 23:02, js.b1 wrote:
On May 15, 10:03 pm, wrote:
What you need is a reciprocating saw with a demolition blade.
It is one long blade (not two, like the other post implied),
that goes back and forth like a handsaw.

I think there are 2 types...
- Alligator saw - double blades like a hedge trimmer
- Demolition saw - single blade that just pumps away

There are a few variations:

http://www.diyfaq.org.uk/powertools/recipsaw.htm


Checked out that page and have even more tool-envy. I've never seen
a Scorpion saw in the US, either.g [and searches of B& D's US site
don't show it]

Jim

John Rumm wrote:
On 16/05/2010 19:28, Lobster wrote:
Bruce wrote:
On Sun, 16 May 2010 11:25:02 +0000 (UTC),
(Andrew Gabriel) wrote:
I have one of these on the shelf in the garage, but the drill gave up
(the day I just bought several new blades for it, of course).
It worked well for 10+ years, before dedicated circular saws were
available at affordable prices. B&D had a load of drill attachments
of that form. My father also had the circular saw one, but also the
jigsaw and the hedgecutter attachments (and probably some I've
forgotten).

Somewhere I think I also still have the Vertical Drill Stand and the
Horizontal Drill Stand (aka bench-grinder conversion tool)!

My father had the B&D circular saw attachment and the finishing sander
attachment. I inherited them and used them for a few years.
When I finally got around to buying a Bosch circular saw, I wondered
why on earth I had struggled on with the clunky B&D attachment.

As Andrew alluded to, because of the prohibitive cost back then. I can
remember my parents buying their first (and only - Mum still has it!)
B&D drill in the early 70s. It was a 2-speed hammer job, and IIRC it
cost 30-40 GBP, which would be worth probably ten times that in todays
money. They certainly weren't a common part of people's household stuff
as they are today. Presumably other portable power tools must have been
similarly priced, accounting for the plethora of attachments you used to
buy for them. God it was a PITA always swapping them over though!

I recall my mother buying a B&D suitcase in the early 80's, that came
with a 2 speed hammer drill and a bunch of accessories. Cost was £84
IIRC from Argos (or possibly the catalogue shop that preceded it. These
included the circular saw that got a fair bit of use (but with hindsight
was pretty poor!), an orbital sander (not too bad), and a jigsaw (had
the ergonomics of a ****ed off octopus!) The drill itself is still
going... although it gets little use these days.


Wow- portable power tools for home use seemingly took a long winding
road in UK. (Maybe because of the different power?) All those tools you
described were available at realistic prices in the states by late 60s
early 70s- as stand-alone tools, not a 'Transformer' kit. Most homes
that had even a rudimentary workbench had a 3/8" drill, a small saber
saw, and a cheap circular saw. Sanders and such were usually only
purchased if the Mrs. was into furniture refinishing or something. This
was stuff for repairs and backyard construction of kid-stuff, not for
fine cabinetry.

Of course, my experience may be atypical- I grew up in a construction
company, and most of the kids I hung out with had fathers known to have
swung a hammer or two in their day.

--
aem sends...

"Harry Bloomfield" wrote in message
. uk...
spamlet has brought this to us :
I also did almost buy a reciprocating saw in either Aldi of Lidl when
they were going v cheap last year. At the time though, I thought I'd
always be fit enough to use hand saws...

The reciprocating saw will fit and cut, where you cannot possibly get a
hand saw into. I have found mine to be particularly useful for cutting
tree roots, whilst still buried in the ground.

--
Regards,
Harry (M1BYT) (L)

I tend to put a chain round roots - leaving a bit of the stump attached -
and then jacking the stump out of the ground using fence posts for leverage.
Of course, I'm talking garden sized things rather than large native trees...

S

It happens that aemeijers formulated :
Wow- portable power tools for home use seemingly took a long winding road in
UK. (Maybe because of the different power?) All those tools you described
were available at realistic prices in the states by late 60s early 70s- as
stand-alone tools, not a 'Transformer' kit. Most homes that had even a
rudimentary workbench had a 3/8" drill, a small saber saw, and a cheap
circular saw. Sanders and such were usually only purchased if the Mrs. was
into furniture refinishing or something. This was stuff for repairs and
backyard construction of kid-stuff, not for fine cabinetry.

The stand-alone power tools started to become affordable for DIY from
around the mid 80's in the UK. From around 2000 the prices have really
fallen, due to all of the cheap imported stuff.

My father's only power tool was a B&D drill from the 1960's, which I
know cost a small fortune when he bought it. It was beautifully made
and was still in pristine condition when I disposed of it a few years
ago - its relatively small chuck made it not very practical for modern
usage.




--
Regards,
Harry (M1BYT) (L)
http://www.ukradioamateur.co.uk

On 15 May,

Having knocked down a very old cedar garden shed, I want to cut up all the
wood.

Not with an angle grinder!

I have one of the few wood cutters for an angle grinder - the
Arbortech disk. It's also just about the scariest power tool I use (I
refuse to use a Lancelot angle grinder disk) I've never seen a saw
blade for an angle grinder and wouldn't trust it at that speed anyway.

This is not a good idea.

In article ,
Harry Bloomfield wrote:
It happens that aemeijers formulated :
Wow- portable power tools for home use seemingly took a long winding
road in UK. (Maybe because of the different power?) All those tools
you described were available at realistic prices in the states by
late 60s early 70s- as stand-alone tools, not a 'Transformer' kit.
Most homes that had even a rudimentary workbench had a 3/8" drill, a
small saber saw, and a cheap circular saw. Sanders and such were
usually only purchased if the Mrs. was into furniture refinishing or
something. This was stuff for repairs and backyard construction of
kid-stuff, not for fine cabinetry.

The stand-alone power tools started to become affordable for DIY from
around the mid 80's in the UK. From around 2000 the prices have really
fallen, due to all of the cheap imported stuff.

My father's only power tool was a B&D drill from the 1960's, which I
know cost a small fortune when he bought it. It was beautifully made
and was still in pristine condition when I disposed of it a few years
ago - its relatively small chuck made it not very practical for modern
usage.

I still have my first drill, bought in the early '60s. Cost IIRC 11 quid -
pretty well a week's take home for me and I wasn't in a badly paid job.
3/8th chuck two speed B&D - all aluminium and painted blue. It still works
well - but I did have it overhauled at B&D in the 70s as I had a mate who
worked at the factory in Spennymoor? and at least the gearbox was changed
as that is now gold. Had a circular saw and jigsaw attachment for it -
both pretty useless.

--
*Plagiarism saves time *

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

On Sun, 16 May 2010 20:55:11 +0100, "The Medway Handyman"
wrote the following:

DanG wrote:
Your mind is made up so I know this is a waste of time. Your wild
ass statement about a diamond blade kicking back and cutting a
man's neck is pure hyperbola, fiction, and prevarication. A
diamond blade would be very hard pressed to cut your hand if you
ran it into your hand at full speed. They do an excellent job
cutting really hard things like glass and tile, they really suck
on anything else.

It wasn't a diamond blade
http://www.metro.co.uk/news/627085-m...sed-power-tool

He evidently used a 7-1/4" blade in a 7" angle grinder. (or whatever
your metric equivalent is, eh? 184mm, or 9"/230mm?)
Thanks to Murphy's Law, the Darwin Award is being given to the idiot.

That's one more cleanup in the gene pool, thank goodness.

--
Work and struggle and never accept an evil that you can change.
-- Andre Gide

Tim Watts wrote:

I saw some discs in Alsford Timber the other day that were available in
9" and 12" (might have been a 4-odd inch too) that were advertised for
wood, especially tree roots. They had some almighty lumps (1/8-1/4") of
abrasive (maybe carbide) suck on the side. Looked bloody viscous

You definitely want a low-viscosity blade.

On Sun, 16 May 2010 21:40:27 +0100, John Rumm
wrote the following:

On 17/05/2010 02:15, DanG wrote:

Your mind is made up so I know this is a waste of time. Your wild
ass statement about a diamond blade kicking back and cutting a
man's neck is pure hyperbola, fiction, and prevarication. A

Hardly - a quick google will show that angle grinder fatalities are not
uncommon. In fact a builder died at a junior school local to me a few
years ago as a result of copping a diamond blade to the neck. He bled to
death on the scene in front of his son before medical help could get there.

Granted not all of these are the direct results of kickback as such -
but some form of loss of control of the tool or falling onto is
typically the cause.

diamond blade would be very hard pressed to cut your hand if you
ran it into your hand at full speed. They do an excellent job

There is good Makita safety video that quite nicely demonstrates the
common lower leg injuries that occur when a grinder with diamond blade
hits a typical bit of meat under clothing.

A diamond blade would be slower, but it would abrade all the way to
the arbor if it had a few extra seconds. Conclusion: All tools are
dangerous. Use care, use daily!


I have no idea what an alligator saw is. I've been in the
commercial contracting business for over 50 years so please
enlighten me as I may need one some day.

Its a reciprocating saw with twin counter moving blades.

http://www.dewalt.co.uk/powertools/p...s/catno/DW390/

Oh, I thought you were referring to the little electric chainsaw.
http://fwd4.me/OUH

--snip--
Your links refer to accidents which could have happened with any sort
of saw, not just a grinder.

--
Work and struggle and never accept an evil that you can change.
-- Andre Gide

"John Rumm" wrote in message
o.uk...
On 17/05/2010 02:15, DanG wrote:

Your mind is made up so I know this is a waste of time. Your wild
ass statement about a diamond blade kicking back and cutting a
man's neck is pure hyperbola, fiction, and prevarication. A

Hardly - a quick google will show that angle grinder fatalities are not
uncommon. In fact a builder died at a junior school local to me a few
years ago as a result of copping a diamond blade to the neck. He bled to
death on the scene in front of his son before medical help could get
there.

Granted not all of these are the direct results of kickback as such - but
some form of loss of control of the tool or falling onto is typically the
cause.

diamond blade would be very hard pressed to cut your hand if you
ran it into your hand at full speed. They do an excellent job

There is good Makita safety video that quite nicely demonstrates the
common lower leg injuries that occur when a grinder with diamond blade
hits a typical bit of meat under clothing.

cutting really hard things like glass and tile, they really suck
on anything else.

Just because something is sub optimal for cutting flesh, does not mean it
won't.

I have no idea what an alligator saw is. I've been in the
commercial contracting business for over 50 years so please
enlighten me as I may need one some day.

Its a reciprocating saw with twin counter moving blades.

http://www.dewalt.co.uk/powertools/p...s/catno/DW390/

You may not be strong enough to hang onto a grinder when the blade
hits something, be it a tree root or whatever, but I sure as hell
am and have done so, though that is NOT the object when using the
tool.

Rather than continuing the willy waving, perhaps we can agree that an
angle grinder is not the tool for this job and leave it at that?

The reason most us have said to not use the grinder with a blade
has much more to do with the OP's opening line which said that he
was not experienced. Let it alone.

I really hate it when people babble and pontificate about things
of which they have no experience. If you have information or
experience to share, have at: otherwise, sit back and listen
(read).

Perhaps you might care to review some of these: (Warning, some of these
are graphic)

http://www.head-face-med.com/content/4/1/1
http://www.sswahs.nsw.gov.au/liverpool/trauma/45m.html
http://www.news.com.au/breaking-news...-1225820724743
http://www.citizen.co.za/index/artic...sc=122382,1,22

--

Here's one nearly done in by his digital video camera ..

http://news.bbc.co.uk/2/hi/uk_news/8683750.stm

On Sun, 16 May 2010 20:28:16 +0100, Harry Bloomfield
wrote the following:

Lobster formulated on Sunday :
What's the travel like on the blades of those saws? I certainly have a need
for a rough'n ready powered saw for that sort of use, but had always thought
they looked a bit too small, and Alligator-types were a bit OTT/out of my
price range. But taking out a 12" tree sounds reasonably impressive...

Travel is about 2" and the blade was 9" long, so I had to cut from
three sides to get all the way through.

All three sides of that round tree, Harry? chortle

My 2-decade old Remington chainsaw nearly bit the dust last week when
I let a rental worker (needed an extra body for digging out those
pampas grass clusters) use it. It had been cracked already, but the
bar and chain now bounce around a 7" arc at the tip. It still works,
and I cut down 2 dozen hedge trunks with it, but it's on its last leg.
Hmm, what to replace it with...maybe a chainsaw-on-a-pole.

--
Work and struggle and never accept an evil that you can change.
-- Andre Gide

Larry Jaques wrote:


My 2-decade old Remington chainsaw nearly bit the dust last week when
I let a rental worker (needed an extra body for digging out those
pampas grass clusters) use it. It had been cracked already, but the
bar and chain now bounce around a 7" arc at the tip. It still works,
and I cut down 2 dozen hedge trunks with it, but it's on its last leg.
Hmm, what to replace it with...maybe a chainsaw-on-a-pole.

Ummmmm... hey Larry - if your bar is that broken that it traverses a 7" arc,
then it's a no brainer - it's junk. At least the bar is. This one is too
obvious to even spend time talking about...

--

-Mike-

John Rumm wrote:

Rather than continuing the willy waving, perhaps we can agree that an
angle grinder is not the tool for this job and leave it at that?



I think that is what most of the people who really understand angle grinders
have been saying.

--

-Mike-

Jim Elbrecht wrote:


The downside of a reciprocating saw is their tendency to pull light
material back and forth if it isn't secured.


Downside??? You have to be willing to hold and use the tool properly.
Anything less does not result in a "downside".

--

-Mike-

Mike Marlow wrote:
Jim Elbrecht wrote:

The downside of a reciprocating saw is their tendency to pull light
material back and forth if it isn't secured.


Downside??? You have to be willing to hold and use the tool properly.
Anything less does not result in a "downside".

That is why they have that flexible foot on them, to press up against
the work being cut. Sounds like somebody was trying to reach too far.
Like any power cutting tool, you gotta plan your cut before you pull the
trigger. No saw works well to cut the end off a spring hanging in
mid-air. That is why those tree-pruning saws on the long poles are of
such limited usefulness, other than right up by the trunk or a thick
main branch.

--
aem sends...

On Sun, 16 May 2010 23:28:22 +0100, John Rumm
wrote:

On 16/05/2010 22:07, Jim Elbrecht wrote:
On Sun, 16 May 2010 21:42:40 +0100, John Rumm
wrote:

On 15/05/2010 23:02, js.b1 wrote:
On May 15, 10:03 pm, wrote:
What you need is a reciprocating saw with a demolition blade.
It is one long blade (not two, like the other post implied),
that goes back and forth like a handsaw.

I think there are 2 types...
- Alligator saw - double blades like a hedge trimmer
- Demolition saw - single blade that just pumps away

There are a few variations:

http://www.diyfaq.org.uk/powertools/recipsaw.htm


Checked out that page and have even more tool-envy. I've never seen
a Scorpion saw in the US, either.g [and searches of B& D's US site
don't show it]

Ah, well I *had* one of those. Took me ages to find someone to give it
away too! ;-)

A bit like:

http://www.amazon.co.uk/Black-Decker.../dp/B00032II4A

Only in England you say???
Pity!! (NOT)

They seem to be very popular, but I can't understand why! I can only
assume they are bought by infrequent DIYers who have not had the chance
to use a proper recip saw or a decent jigsaw.

They have a very short stroke, and fairly fine teeth so cut very slowly.
They use B&D single source blades that are expensive. They vibrate
excessively. The larger saw looking blade tends to set up side to side
vibration so much that the end tends to hack a wide trench out of the
wood rather than cutting it. It has a jigsaw mode where it behaves just
like the worst jigsaw you have ever used only not as well.

On Sun, 16 May 2010 22:20:03 -0400, "Mike Marlow"
wrote the following:

Larry Jaques wrote:


My 2-decade old Remington chainsaw nearly bit the dust last week when
I let a rental worker (needed an extra body for digging out those
pampas grass clusters) use it. It had been cracked already, but the
bar and chain now bounce around a 7" arc at the tip. It still works,
and I cut down 2 dozen hedge trunks with it, but it's on its last leg.
Hmm, what to replace it with...maybe a chainsaw-on-a-pole.

Ummmmm... hey Larry - if your bar is that broken that it traverses a 7" arc,
then it's a no brainer - it's junk. At least the bar is. This one is too
obvious to even spend time talking about...

No, it's the plastic housing, or what's left of it, which is allowing
the bar/chain/adjuster assembly to move around. What has amazed me is
that it hasn't come off and self-destructed. It still cuts wood! And
yes, I was quite careful and haven't used it again. I hope to replace
it tomorrow, but I only use it once or twice a season. This was the
second time this Spring.

--
Facts are stubborn things; and whatever may be our wishes, our
inclinations, or the dictates of our passion, they cannot alter
the state of facts and evidence. -- John Adams, December 1770
'Argument in Defense of the Soldiers in the Boston Massacre Trials'

Mike Marlow wrote:

Jim Elbrecht wrote:


The downside of a reciprocating saw is their tendency to pull light
material back and forth if it isn't secured.


Downside??? You have to be willing to hold and use the tool properly.
Anything less does not result in a "downside".


Anchor the work and use the foot.

Tip: Quick-Grip clamps are crap for anchoring work you are trying to cut
with a reciprocating saw. The vibration loosens the clamps and you wind up
resetting them multiple times. Not that I'd know that, it happened to
somebody who lives in my neighborhood.


--

There is never a situation where having more rounds is a disadvantage

Rob Leatham

"aemeijers" wrote in message
...
Mike Marlow wrote:
Jim Elbrecht wrote:

The downside of a reciprocating saw is their tendency to pull light
material back and forth if it isn't secured.


Downside??? You have to be willing to hold and use the tool properly.
Anything less does not result in a "downside".

That is why they have that flexible foot on them, to press up against the
work being cut. Sounds like somebody was trying to reach too far. Like any
power cutting tool, you gotta plan your cut before you pull the trigger.
No saw works well to cut the end off a spring hanging in mid-air. That is
why those tree-pruning saws on the long poles are of such limited
usefulness, other than right up by the trunk or a thick main branch.

Thick branches and right up against the trunk is the Intended use.

"Jim Elbrecht" wrote in message
...


The downside of a reciprocating saw is their tendency to pull light
material back and forth if it isn't secured.

Can you, for instance, cut a small branch off a tree and keep both
hands on the saw without it shaking the bejeebers out of the tree?

That is what the foot is for, to stop the material being pulled forwards by
the cutting stroke.
You don't have to hold it tightly at all.

Rather than continuing the willy waving, perhaps we can agree that an
angle grinder is not the tool for this job and leave it at that?

The reason most us have said to not use the grinder with a blade
has much more to do with the OP's opening line which said that he
was not experienced. Let it alone.

I really hate it when people babble and pontificate about things
of which they have no experience. If you have information or
experience to share, have at: otherwise, sit back and listen
(read).

Perhaps you might care to review some of these: (Warning, some of these
are graphic)


Never mind the "graphic" bits the text is bad enough;!....


"A thorough secondary survey should be performed in the situation of a
shattered disc as several anatomical sites may be affected. In
particular perineal or scrotal injuries occur if the operator straddles
the object being cut and can be missed [2]. Overhead use of angle
grinders has been associated with fatal intracranial injury and should
be avoided [5]. A number of articles have been published to warn of
these specific dangers [6,7]. In order to reduce the risks of injury
there are general guidelines about the use of power tools such as
checking they are maintained and on the use of protective clothing [7].
Specific guidance on the use of angle grinders is shown in Table 2.


--
Tony Sayer

John Rumm wrote:
On 16/05/2010 17:09, js.b1 wrote:
On May 16, 4:42 pm, stuart wrote:
John Rumm wrote:
Multiply by the blade circumference... so for a 190mm blade at 4500 rpm
that is 4500 x 0.19 x pi = 2686 m/sec

Heh-heh, blade tip travelling at beyond even rail gun projectile
hypersonic speed would be fun.

I knew I could count on you :-)

RPS = 4500rpm / 60 = 75
Circumference is 2*Pi*R = 2 * 3.14 * 0.19/2 = 0.59m
Circumferential speed = 75 * 0.49 = 44m/sec.

Well what's a factor of 60 between friends ;-)

Yup, my bad - sorry!



What an old boss of mine would term a "slip-up" rather than a mistake :-)

In article ,
aemeijers wrote:
Downside??? You have to be willing to hold and use the tool properly.
Anything less does not result in a "downside".

That is why they have that flexible foot on them, to press up against
the work being cut. Sounds like somebody was trying to reach too far.
Like any power cutting tool, you gotta plan your cut before you pull the
trigger. No saw works well to cut the end off a spring hanging in
mid-air. That is why those tree-pruning saws on the long poles are of
such limited usefulness, other than right up by the trunk or a thick
main branch.

Any CSI fans will know that seems to be their tool of choice. Usually for
cutting plasterboard to reveal the dead body behind. But never with the
foot up against the board.

Strange their walls never seem to have studs...

--
*Why do we say something is out of whack? What is a whack?

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

Larry Jaques wrote:
On Sun, 16 May 2010 22:20:03 -0400, "Mike Marlow"
wrote the following:

Larry Jaques wrote:


My 2-decade old Remington chainsaw nearly bit the dust last week
when I let a rental worker (needed an extra body for digging out
those pampas grass clusters) use it. It had been cracked already,
but the bar and chain now bounce around a 7" arc at the tip. It
still works, and I cut down 2 dozen hedge trunks with it, but it's
on its last leg. Hmm, what to replace it with...maybe a
chainsaw-on-a-pole.

Ummmmm... hey Larry - if your bar is that broken that it traverses a
7" arc, then it's a no brainer - it's junk. At least the bar is.
This one is too obvious to even spend time talking about...

No, it's the plastic housing, or what's left of it, which is allowing
the bar/chain/adjuster assembly to move around. What has amazed me is
that it hasn't come off and self-destructed. It still cuts wood! And
yes, I was quite careful and haven't used it again. I hope to replace
it tomorrow, but I only use it once or twice a season. This was the
second time this Spring.

I didn't notice your last comment in your first post until just now Larry.
I just bought a chainsaw on a pole this year. I have lots of branches to
prune around our yard since we live in the woods. Finally broke down and
bought one of the chainsaw pruner attachements for my string trimmer. Quite
impressive in what it will do. Sure does beat setting up a ladder and
hauling a chainsaw up to prune. I can get around 12' of reach with this and
that's enough to get most of what I'm usually after. Got mine at the
factory reconditioned store for $49 - half the retail price.

We were somewhere around Barstow, on the edge of the desert, when the
drugs began to take hold. I remember "DanG" saying
something like:

Your mind is made up so I know this is a waste of time. Your wild
ass statement about a diamond blade kicking back and cutting a
man's neck is pure hyperbola, fiction, and prevarication. A
diamond blade would be very hard pressed to cut your hand if you
ran it into your hand at full speed.
I really hate it when people babble and pontificate about things
of which they have no experience. If you have information or
experience to share, have at: otherwise, sit back and listen
(read).

Know-all ****wit.

On Sun, 16 May 2010 23:27:28 -0400, aemeijers
wrote the following:

Mike Marlow wrote:
Jim Elbrecht wrote:

The downside of a reciprocating saw is their tendency to pull light
material back and forth if it isn't secured.


Downside??? You have to be willing to hold and use the tool properly.
Anything less does not result in a "downside".

That is why they have that flexible foot on them, to press up against
the work being cut. Sounds like somebody was trying to reach too far.
Like any power cutting tool, you gotta plan your cut before you pull the
trigger. No saw works well to cut the end off a spring hanging in
mid-air. That is why those tree-pruning saws on the long poles are of
such limited usefulness, other than right up by the trunk or a thick
main branch.

They're of great use, but only if you know how to limb a tree.

1) Make a quick bottom cut a few inches out from the intended final
cut. This keeps the branch from ripping the bark off all the way down
the tree if it breaks during cutting.

2) Move out 1/4 inch and make the top cut, taking the branch off.

3) Carefully cut the stub close to the trunk so it can scab properly.

It takes a few extra minutes to do right, but it saves the tree.

Details: For recip saws and manual, you have to be close enough to the
branch to hold it still. For higher, off-ground cuts, you need a
chainsaw-on-a-stick which automatically holds the branch to itself
while it cuts.

--
Facts are stubborn things; and whatever may be our wishes, our
inclinations, or the dictates of our passion, they cannot alter
the state of facts and evidence. -- John Adams, December 1770
'Argument in Defense of the Soldiers in the Boston Massacre Trials'

On Mon, 17 May 2010 07:26:14 -0400, "Mike Marlow"
wrote the following:

Larry Jaques wrote:
On Sun, 16 May 2010 22:20:03 -0400, "Mike Marlow"
wrote the following:

Larry Jaques wrote:


My 2-decade old Remington chainsaw nearly bit the dust last week
when I let a rental worker (needed an extra body for digging out
those pampas grass clusters) use it. It had been cracked already,
but the bar and chain now bounce around a 7" arc at the tip. It
still works, and I cut down 2 dozen hedge trunks with it, but it's
on its last leg. Hmm, what to replace it with...maybe a
chainsaw-on-a-pole.

Ummmmm... hey Larry - if your bar is that broken that it traverses a
7" arc, then it's a no brainer - it's junk. At least the bar is.
This one is too obvious to even spend time talking about...

No, it's the plastic housing, or what's left of it, which is allowing
the bar/chain/adjuster assembly to move around. What has amazed me is
that it hasn't come off and self-destructed. It still cuts wood! And
yes, I was quite careful and haven't used it again. I hope to replace
it tomorrow, but I only use it once or twice a season. This was the
second time this Spring.

I didn't notice your last comment in your first post until just now Larry.
I just bought a chainsaw on a pole this year. I have lots of branches to
prune around our yard since we live in the woods. Finally broke down and
bought one of the chainsaw pruner attachements for my string trimmer. Quite
impressive in what it will do. Sure does beat setting up a ladder and
hauling a chainsaw up to prune. I can get around 12' of reach with this and
that's enough to get most of what I'm usually after. Got mine at the
factory reconditioned store for $49 - half the retail price.

Cool. I'm looking at the Homelite at HD for $99. It telescopes to 15'
(Har! That includes your 7' height. and down to 42", which will
keep me from having to squat or bend over for most cuts. Squatting
kills my foot these days.

Do these gas trimmer attachments keep the motor upside down when
running, or how do they work? It seems like that would be a problem.

--
Facts are stubborn things; and whatever may be our wishes, our
inclinations, or the dictates of our passion, they cannot alter
the state of facts and evidence. -- John Adams, December 1770
'Argument in Defense of the Soldiers in the Boston Massacre Trials'

On Mon, 17 May 2010 09:35:06 +0100, stuart noble
wrote the following:

John Rumm wrote:
On 16/05/2010 17:09, js.b1 wrote:
On May 16, 4:42 pm, stuart wrote:
John Rumm wrote:
Multiply by the blade circumference... so for a 190mm blade at 4500 rpm
that is 4500 x 0.19 x pi = 2686 m/sec

Heh-heh, blade tip travelling at beyond even rail gun projectile
hypersonic speed would be fun.

I knew I could count on you :-)

RPS = 4500rpm / 60 = 75
Circumference is 2*Pi*R = 2 * 3.14 * 0.19/2 = 0.59m
Circumferential speed = 75 * 0.49 = 44m/sec.

Well what's a factor of 60 between friends ;-)

Yup, my bad - sorry!

What an old boss of mine would term a "slip-up" rather than a mistake :-)

Murphy Math.

--
Facts are stubborn things; and whatever may be our wishes, our
inclinations, or the dictates of our passion, they cannot alter
the state of facts and evidence. -- John Adams, December 1770
'Argument in Defense of the Soldiers in the Boston Massacre Trials'

Advertise it as "free firewood, cut it up and haul it away".

Pete Stanaitis
--------------------

john hamilton wrote:

Novice has small angle grinder (takes discs 115 mm with central hole
diameter 22mm). The discs i've already got for it are for grinding tiles and
metal.

Having knocked down a very old cedar garden shed, I want to cut up all the
wood. I'm wondering if i buy one of the diamond discs available for it,
whether that would be reasonably ok for cutting wood with? I cannot find
any discs that are said to be specifially for wood for this type of angle
grinder.

Some of the shed cladding wood is very thin (with nails all over the place)
so i think the usual circular saw for wood would be a bit too hefty and
vigourous on this thin wood of the shed. Grateful for any suggestions on
the best type of circular disc to go for. Thanks.

"Larry Jaques" wrote in message
...


Do these gas trimmer attachments keep the motor upside down when
running, or how do they work? It seems like that would be a problem.


Nope - you hold the trimmer head in the normal fashion, except pointed
upward.

--

-Mike-

Subject

Glad to see a lot of new partipican from the UK on this thread.

Welcome to the wreck.

Lew

On Mon, 17 May 2010 12:26:50 -0400, "Mike Marlow"
wrote the following:


"Larry Jaques" wrote in message
.. .


Do these gas trimmer attachments keep the motor upside down when
running, or how do they work? It seems like that would be a problem.


Nope - you hold the trimmer head in the normal fashion, except pointed
upward.

By trimmer "head" I meant "the engine end", Mike.

Normal trimmer: Engine/gas tank upright (45 degrees?) when working end
is down. Now, when you take the string spool off and put a saw on the
end, then tilt it 90-135 degrees upward, doesn't the engine end up
upside down? If not, why not?

--
Facts are stubborn things; and whatever may be our wishes, our
inclinations, or the dictates of our passion, they cannot alter
the state of facts and evidence. -- John Adams, December 1770
'Argument in Defense of the Soldiers in the Boston Massacre Trials'

Lobby Dosser wrote:
"aemeijers" wrote in message
...
Mike Marlow wrote:
Jim Elbrecht wrote:

The downside of a reciprocating saw is their tendency to pull light
material back and forth if it isn't secured.


Downside??? You have to be willing to hold and use the tool
properly. Anything less does not result in a "downside".

That is why they have that flexible foot on them, to press up against
the work being cut. Sounds like somebody was trying to reach too far.
Like any power cutting tool, you gotta plan your cut before you pull
the trigger. No saw works well to cut the end off a spring hanging in
mid-air. That is why those tree-pruning saws on the long poles are of
such limited usefulness, other than right up by the trunk or a thick
main branch.

Thick branches and right up against the trunk is the Intended use.

I get that- trouble is, there are a lot of branches I need to trim that
fall between the thumb-size the rope powered lopper will cut, and the
thick ones the sawblade will get a bite on. I don't wanna take the whole
side off the tree, I just want to trim away where it rubs the roof and
siding, and gets into the TV antenna.

--
aem sends...