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#1
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I recently reviewed the Dust Deputy DIY (Cyclone Only) and was very
pleased with the results. For those of you (like me) with a small shop that relies on a shop-vac for saw dust clean-up and extraction this thing is a must. http://www.garagewoodworks.com/Dust_Deputy.php NO AFFILIATION YADA YADA YADA!! Just a very happy end-user. Brian www.garagewoodworks.com |
#2
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GarageWoodworks wrote:
I recently reviewed the Dust Deputy DIY (Cyclone Only) and was very pleased with the results. For those of you (like me) with a small shop that relies on a shop-vac for saw dust clean-up and extraction this thing is a must. http://www.garagewoodworks.com/Dust_Deputy.php NO AFFILIATION YADA YADA YADA!! Just a very happy end-user. Brian www.garagewoodworks.com do you think would this work for micron or submicron particles? i've been looking for something like this for my sandblaster. |
#3
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On 01/15/2010 12:51 PM, charlie wrote:
GarageWoodworks wrote: I recently reviewed the Dust Deputy DIY (Cyclone Only) and was very pleased with the results. For those of you (like me) with a small shop that relies on a shop-vac for saw dust clean-up and extraction this thing is a must. http://www.garagewoodworks.com/Dust_Deputy.php NO AFFILIATION YADA YADA YADA!! Just a very happy end-user. Brian www.garagewoodworks.com do you think would this work for micron or submicron particles? i've been looking for something like this for my sandblaster. I'm sure it would help. Exactly how much is tough to say. ClearVue had what I consider a better design in their CV06, based on Bill Pentz's improvements to give better separation and reduced resistance. However, Oneida took out a patent on the design and forced them to stop selling it (even though the design was public well before Oneida patented it). Anyways, they still sell the conversion lid, which is arguably the slickest solution for portable shopvac use though it does require a particular shopvac. http://www.clearvuecyclones.com/Ridgid_Conversion.htm Chris |
#4
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![]() "charlie" wrote in message ... GarageWoodworks wrote: I recently reviewed the Dust Deputy DIY (Cyclone Only) and was very pleased with the results. For those of you (like me) with a small shop that relies on a shop-vac for saw dust clean-up and extraction this thing is a must. http://www.garagewoodworks.com/Dust_Deputy.php NO AFFILIATION YADA YADA YADA!! Just a very happy end-user. Brian www.garagewoodworks.com do you think would this work for micron or submicron particles? i've been looking for something like this for my sandblaster. That would probably depend on the filter in the vacuum. Typically the cyclone type separators simply separate the large debris from the fine dust. The fine dust is usually captured by a different filter. |
#5
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On Jan 15, 2:34*pm, "Leon" wrote:
"charlie" wrote in message ... GarageWoodworks wrote: I recently reviewed the Dust Deputy DIY (Cyclone Only) and was very pleased with the results. *For those of you (like me) with a small shop that relies on a shop-vac for saw dust clean-up and extraction this thing is a must. http://www.garagewoodworks.com/Dust_Deputy.php NO AFFILIATION YADA YADA YADA!! * Just a very happy end-user. Brian www.garagewoodworks.com do you think would this work for micron or submicron particles? i've been looking for something like this for my sandblaster. That would probably depend on the filter in the vacuum. *Typically the cyclone type separators simply separate the large debris from the fine dust. The fine dust is usually captured by a different filter. Not accurate. I had some very fine saw dust in the bucket in my review. Almost no sawdust ended up in the shop vac or attached to the filter. |
#6
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On Jan 15, 1:51*pm, "charlie" wrote:
GarageWoodworks wrote: I recently reviewed the Dust Deputy DIY (Cyclone Only) and was very pleased with the results. *For those of you (like me) with a small shop that relies on a shop-vac for saw dust clean-up and extraction this thing is a must. http://www.garagewoodworks.com/Dust_Deputy.php NO AFFILIATION YADA YADA YADA!! * Just a very happy end-user. Brian www.garagewoodworks.com do you think would this work for micron or submicron particles? i've been looking for something like this for my sandblaster. I'm also sure it would help significantly. I'm tempted to try talcum powder to see how well it performs. |
#7
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![]() "GarageWoodworks" wrote in message ... I recently reviewed the Dust Deputy DIY (Cyclone Only) and was very pleased with the results. For those of you (like me) with a small shop that relies on a shop-vac for saw dust clean-up and extraction this thing is a must. http://www.garagewoodworks.com/Dust_Deputy.php NO AFFILIATION YADA YADA YADA!! Just a very happy end-user. Brian www.garagewoodworks.com Pretty cool... I have often wondered about these type portable units. You mention that you used a 5 gal bucket and you could use have used a 10 gal bucket. I wonder if the size of the container really matters as long as it is at least 5 gal and is air tight. The reason I ask is that you mentioned the tendency for the unit to tip. If you attached a larger container to the unit it may not be so easily tipped. Additionally you might consider using a longer hose to get to where you need to go so that you could fasten the bucket down. I use a 20' flexible hose with my DC and that works very well, not having to move the DC, except to empty it. |
#8
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On Jan 15, 2:53*pm, "Leon" wrote:
"GarageWoodworks" wrote in message ... I recently reviewed the Dust Deputy DIY (Cyclone Only) and was very pleased with the results. *For those of you (like me) with a small shop that relies on a shop-vac for saw dust clean-up and extraction this thing is a must. http://www.garagewoodworks.com/Dust_Deputy.php NO AFFILIATION YADA YADA YADA!! * Just a very happy end-user. Brian www.garagewoodworks.com Pretty cool... I have often wondered about these type portable units. You mention that you used a 5 gal bucket and you could use have used a 10 gal bucket. * I wonder if the size of the container really matters as long as it is at least 5 gal and is air tight. The reason I ask is that you mentioned the tendency for the unit to tip. *If you attached a larger container to the unit it may not be so easily tipped. Additionally you might consider using a longer hose to get to where you need to go so that you could fasten the bucket down. I use a 20' flexible hose with my DC and that works very well, not having to move the DC, except to empty it. You can use a bucket/drum upto 10 gallons. I have a larger bucket that I intend to use, but I wanted to do the review using a bucket that most people would have access to. This thing is really cool and is very SOLID (thick plastic and heavy). |
#9
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GarageWoodworks wrote:
On Jan 15, 2:34 pm, "Leon" wrote: "charlie" wrote in message ... GarageWoodworks wrote: I recently reviewed the Dust Deputy DIY (Cyclone Only) and was very pleased with the results. For those of you (like me) with a small shop that relies on a shop-vac for saw dust clean-up and extraction this thing is a must. http://www.garagewoodworks.com/Dust_Deputy.php NO AFFILIATION YADA YADA YADA!! Just a very happy end-user. Brian www.garagewoodworks.com do you think would this work for micron or submicron particles? i've been looking for something like this for my sandblaster. That would probably depend on the filter in the vacuum. Typically the cyclone type separators simply separate the large debris from the fine dust. The fine dust is usually captured by a different filter. Not accurate. I had some very fine saw dust in the bucket in my review. Almost no sawdust ended up in the shop vac or attached to the filter. That's dependent on the definition of "fine". It's difficult to generate micron or submicron w/ a saw; even most sanding dust is larger than that. The effectiveness of a cyclone separator depends on the mass of the particulate being great enough that its inertia will be too large for it (the particle) to follow the curvature of the air stream. Smaller/lighter means they will be entrained in the air flow and follow it rather than being separated. -- |
#10
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On Jan 15, 3:31*pm, dpb wrote:
GarageWoodworks wrote: On Jan 15, 2:34 pm, "Leon" wrote: "charlie" wrote in message ... GarageWoodworks wrote: I recently reviewed the Dust Deputy DIY (Cyclone Only) and was very pleased with the results. *For those of you (like me) with a small shop that relies on a shop-vac for saw dust clean-up and extraction this thing is a must. http://www.garagewoodworks.com/Dust_Deputy.php NO AFFILIATION YADA YADA YADA!! * Just a very happy end-user. Brian www.garagewoodworks.com do you think would this work for micron or submicron particles? i've been looking for something like this for my sandblaster. That would probably depend on the filter in the vacuum. *Typically the cyclone type separators simply separate the large debris from the fine dust. The fine dust is usually captured by a different filter. Not accurate. *I had some very fine saw dust in the bucket in my review. * Almost no sawdust ended up in the shop vac or attached to the filter. That's dependent on the definition of "fine". *It's difficult to generate micron or submicron w/ a saw; even most sanding dust is larger than that. That depends on your definition/utilization of micron and submicron. The width of a 4/4 board could be measured in microns. The effectiveness of a cyclone separator depends on the mass of the particulate being great enough that its inertia will be too large for it (the particle) to follow the curvature of the air stream. Smaller/lighter means they will be entrained in the air flow and follow it rather than being separated. -- |
#11
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![]() "GarageWoodworks" wrote in message ... I recently reviewed the Dust Deputy DIY (Cyclone Only) and was very pleased with the results. For those of you (like me) with a small shop that relies on a shop-vac for saw dust clean-up and extraction this thing is a must. I got one recently (on sale at Woodcraft) and have been pleased. I did have two problems. First, the plastic connectors on the hose that connects the cyclone to the shop vac split when hooked up to the cyclone although it was simple to fix that with duct tape and a hose-clamp. I was going to contact the company and ask for new connectors but there seemed little point considering a permanent fix was cheap and easy (and the new connectors would probably have split too). Second, the cyclone did not work at all with the really narrow hose on my old shop vac, it seemed to reduce airflow so much that the hose kept clogging. However once I used a wider after-market hose (from Mr. Nozzle--also on sale at Woodcraft) the cyclone worked very well--so now I'm completely happy with it. BTW, I recommend those hoses from Mr. Nozzle, I'm going to get at least one more so I don't have to move one hose between multiple applications. One trick to prevent the cyclone from tipping over is to use two 5-gallon buckets nested with something heavy like a weight-lifting plate between the two buckets. That way you can easily empty the top bucket and leave the weight in the bottom one. I assume I'm not the only one with unused weigh-lifting gear in the garage. Of course if you have a sufficiently large shop vac you can fasten the cyclone right to the shop vac. |
#12
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On Jan 15, 3:56*pm, "DGDevin" wrote:
"GarageWoodworks" wrote in message ... I recently reviewed the Dust Deputy DIY (Cyclone Only) and was very pleased with the results. *For those of you (like me) with a small shop that relies on a shop-vac for saw dust clean-up and extraction this thing is a must. I got one recently (on sale at Woodcraft) and have been pleased. *I did have two problems. *First, the plastic connectors on the hose that connects the cyclone to the shop vac split when hooked up to the cyclone although it was simple to fix that with duct tape and a hose-clamp. *I was going to contact the company and ask for new connectors but there seemed little point considering a permanent fix was cheap and easy (and the new connectors would probably have split too). *Second, the cyclone did not work at all with the really narrow hose on my old shop vac, it seemed to reduce airflow so much that the hose kept clogging. *However once I used a wider after-market hose (from Mr. Nozzle--also on sale at Woodcraft) the cyclone worked very well--so now I'm completely happy with it. BTW, I recommend those hoses from Mr. Nozzle, I'm going to get at least one more so I don't have to move one hose between multiple applications. One trick to prevent the cyclone from tipping over is to use two 5-gallon buckets nested with something heavy like a weight-lifting plate between the two buckets. *That way you can easily empty the top bucket and leave the weight in the bottom one. Neat idea! *I assume I'm not the only one with unused weigh-lifting gear in the garage. *Of course if you have a sufficiently large shop vac you can fasten the cyclone right to the shop vac. |
#13
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![]() "GarageWoodworks" wrote in message ... That would probably depend on the filter in the vacuum. Typically the cyclone type separators simply separate the large debris from the fine dust. The fine dust is usually captured by a different filter. Not accurate. I had some very fine saw dust in the bucket in my review. Almost no sawdust ended up in the shop vac or attached to the filter. Fine dust normally does not take up much space, it compacts well. Would'nt that be what you actually did find in your shop vac? |
#14
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![]() "GarageWoodworks" wrote in message ... You can use a bucket/drum upto 10 gallons. I have a larger bucket that I intend to use, but I wanted to do the review using a bucket that most people would have access to. This thing is really cool and is very SOLID (thick plastic and heavy). Understood, but going beyond what the instructions called for, do you know of any reason that you could not use an air tight 20 gal container? |
#15
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On Fri, 15 Jan 2010 15:36:05 -0600, "Leon"
wrote: Understood, but going beyond what the instructions called for, do you know of any reason that you could not use an air tight 20 gal container? Is the dust dropped in or blown in? If it's blown in, wouldn't an air tight container interfere with the collection of the dust? |
#16
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On Jan 15, 4:36*pm, "Leon" wrote:
"GarageWoodworks" wrote in message ... You can use a bucket/drum upto 10 gallons. * I have a larger bucket that I intend to use, but I wanted to do the review using a bucket that most people would have access to. *This thing is really cool and is very SOLID (thick plastic and heavy). Understood, but going beyond *what the instructions called for, do you know of any reason that you could not use an air tight 20 gal container? I don't see any reason why you couldn't. The limiting factor with increased bucket volume will be your shop vac strength. The larger the volume, the harder the vacuum has to work and vacuum suction should drop. I guess it's the same with duct work and a central shop vac. If the duct work run is too long, suction suffers. |
#17
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On Jan 15, 4:41*pm, wrote:
On Fri, 15 Jan 2010 15:36:05 -0600, "Leon" wrote: Understood, but going beyond *what the instructions called for, do you know of any reason that you could not use an air tight 20 gal container? Is the dust dropped in or blown in? If it's blown in, wouldn't an air tight container interfere with the collection of the dust? It's dropped in. It spins around the cyclone and stays on the outside edge due to centripetal force. The air flow stays in the center moving in the opposite direction of dust flow (fall due to gravity). |
#18
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On Fri, 15 Jan 2010 13:48:38 -0800 (PST), GarageWoodworks
It's dropped in. It spins around the cyclone and stays on the outside edge due to centripetal force. The air flow stays in the center moving in the opposite direction of dust flow (fall due to gravity). Ok thanks. I have exactly zero experience with a cyclone dust collector. |
#19
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On Jan 15, 4:41*pm, wrote:
On Fri, 15 Jan 2010 15:36:05 -0600, "Leon" wrote: Understood, but going beyond *what the instructions called for, do you know of any reason that you could not use an air tight 20 gal container? Is the dust dropped in or blown in? If it's blown in, wouldn't an air tight container interfere with the collection of the dust? See this link for a better explanation: http://www.farrapc.com/products/cycl...-cyclone-works |
#20
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On Jan 15, 4:48*pm, GarageWoodworks
wrote: On Jan 15, 4:41*pm, wrote: On Fri, 15 Jan 2010 15:36:05 -0600, "Leon" wrote: Understood, but going beyond *what the instructions called for, do you know of any reason that you could not use an air tight 20 gal container? Is the dust dropped in or blown in? If it's blown in, wouldn't an air tight container interfere with the collection of the dust? It's dropped in. *It spins around the cyclone and stays on the outside edge due to centripetal force. *The air flow stays in the center moving in the opposite direction of dust flow (fall due to gravity). centrifugal NOT centripetal |
#21
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On Fri, 15 Jan 2010 13:50:48 -0800 (PST), GarageWoodworks
See this link for a better explanation: http://www.farrapc.com/products/cycl...-cyclone-works Looking at the link, it sounds very similar to the eye of a tornado where the centre of it is calm and everything just drops down. |
#22
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On 01/15/2010 03:51 PM, GarageWoodworks wrote:
On Jan 15, 4:48 pm, GarageWoodworks It's dropped in. It spins around the cyclone and stays on the outside edge due to centripetal force. The air flow stays in the center moving in the opposite direction of dust flow (fall due to gravity). centrifugal NOT centripetal Nah, you were right the first time. Chris |
#23
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On 01/15/2010 03:46 PM, GarageWoodworks wrote:
On Jan 15, 4:36 pm, "Leon" wrote: Understood, but going beyond what the instructions called for, do you know of any reason that you could not use an air tight 20 gal container? I don't see any reason why you couldn't. The limiting factor with increased bucket volume will be your shop vac strength. The larger the volume, the harder the vacuum has to work and vacuum suction should drop. Sorry, this is completely wrong. As long as the lid is airtight, it matters not at all how big the container is. Given that you're reducing the pressure in the container the only difference from a larger container is that it will take a fraction of a second longer to get suction at the end of the hose when you turn on the vac (since you need to suck the air out of the container first). I guess it's the same with duct work and a central shop vac. If the duct work run is too long, suction suffers. Long duct runs result in an increase in static pressure in the ductwork. For a given amount of suction from the blower, this results in less airflow. This is totally separate from the size of the cyclone container. Chris |
#24
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On Jan 15, 6:26*pm, Chris Friesen wrote:
On 01/15/2010 03:46 PM, GarageWoodworks wrote: On Jan 15, 4:36 pm, "Leon" wrote: Understood, but going beyond *what the instructions called for, do you know of any reason that you could not use an air tight 20 gal container? I don't see any reason why you couldn't. *The limiting factor with increased bucket volume will be your shop vac strength. *The larger the volume, the harder the vacuum has to work and vacuum suction should drop. Sorry, this is completely wrong. *As long as the lid is airtight, it matters not at all how big the container is. *Given that you're reducing the pressure in the container the only difference from a larger container is that it will take a fraction of a second longer to get suction at the end of the hose when you turn on the vac (since you need to suck the air out of the container first). I guess it's the same with duct work and a central shop vac. *If the duct work run is too long, suction suffers. Long duct runs result in an increase in static pressure in the ductwork. *For a given amount of suction from the blower, this results in less airflow. *This is totally separate from the size of the cyclone container. Chris I stand corrected. Thank you. |
#25
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On 1/15/2010 3:33 PM, Leon wrote:
wrote in message ... That would probably depend on the filter in the vacuum. Typically the cyclone type separators simply separate the large debris from the fine dust. The fine dust is usually captured by a different filter. Not accurate. I had some very fine saw dust in the bucket in my review. Almost no sawdust ended up in the shop vac or attached to the filter. Fine dust normally does not take up much space, it compacts well. Would'nt that be what you actually did find in your shop vac? That would seem to be a reasonable guess, but I've been using a pair of cyclone separators in series for almost eight years now - see http://www.iedu.com/DeSoto/Misc/dustcoll.gif for a photo - to collect dust from the CNC router with results that you might find surprising: the first barrel traps all of the coarse stuff, and the second barrel traps the /really/ fine stuff. The surprising part is that the DC has _never_ been emptied and that there is more dust on the outside of the bags than inside... ....and the main reason for the dust on the outside of the bag is that I sometimes forget (but only for a very short while) to turn on the DC. ![]() -- Morris Dovey DeSoto Solar DeSoto, Iowa USA http://www.iedu.com/DeSoto/ |
#26
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On Fri, 15 Jan 2010 13:53:41 -0600, "Leon"
wrote: Pretty cool... I have often wondered about these type portable units. You mention that you used a 5 gal bucket and you could use have used a 10 gal bucket. I wonder if the size of the container really matters as long as it is at least 5 gal and is air tight. The reason I ask is that you mentioned the tendency for the unit to tip. If you attached a larger container to the unit it may not be so easily tipped. Additionally you might consider using a longer hose to get to where you need to go so that you could fasten the bucket down. I use a 20' flexible hose with my DC and that works very well, not having to move the DC, except to empty it. I have a different one, the one from clearvuecyclones, but it's on a 30 gal steel drum. It's then hooked up to a network of 2-1/2" clear pvc piping with blast gates. What's really fun is if I forgot to open a gate the flex hosing between the cyclone and the piping shrinks and it will lift one end of the drum up in the air. They really are very effective. It's hooked up to my TS, SCMS, router table, spindle sander, and now my CNC, as well as a hose for my hand held sanders and general shop cleanup. There is never anything in the base of the vacuum unless I let the drum overflow. Which I really try to avoid as that drum is mighty heavy when it's full, but happens anyway at least twice a year. You could do a 55 gal drum if you wanted, but I wouldn't want to be the one to have to empty it. I clean the HEPA filter in the Fein every 3 months or so. Without the cyclone it would be at least every week. A couple caveats. If you suck up a long piece of scrap it gets wedged at the inlet of the cyclone and this gives a starting point to create a blockage. Light fluffy stuff like hand plane shavings or from a large forstner bit tend to just circle around inside the cyclone without falling down until you shut off the vac. Burnt out the motor in the Fein after 3 years just recently. Bought another one. Now they've got variable power like the Festools. Now I don't have to partially open another blast gate when I use the ROS and it's REALLY quiet when you turn it down to level 2. -Kevin |
#27
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![]() "Morris Dovey" wrote in message ... On 1/15/2010 3:33 PM, Leon wrote: Snip Fine dust normally does not take up much space, it compacts well. Would'nt that be what you actually did find in your shop vac? That would seem to be a reasonable guess, but I've been using a pair of cyclone separators in series for almost eight years now - see I can certainly see how that probably works better... with 2 containers before the DC. I was referring more to how Brian pictures his set up. His shows 1 single main collection bucket and a shop vac. I would assume that what you find in your second bucket would be what Brian might find in his shop vac. The syatem pictured here, http://www.oneida-air.com/gorilla_landing.php shows a main waste collection bucket and at the bottom of the pleted filter a smaller container to collect the fine dust that does not get caught by the cyclone. Your set up would appear to be more closely described as a 3 stage vs. 2 stage collection system. http://www.iedu.com/DeSoto/Misc/dustcoll.gif for a photo - to collect dust from the CNC router with results that you might find surprising: the first barrel traps all of the coarse stuff, and the second barrel traps the /really/ fine stuff. Actually, pretty much what I would have expected. The surprising part is that the DC has _never_ been emptied and that there is more dust on the outside of the bags than inside... No doubt. ...and the main reason for the dust on the outside of the bag is that I sometimes forget (but only for a very short while) to turn on the DC. ![]() Yeah, LOL.... I noticed yesterday as I was cutting with my BS that there was dust flying out every where. Took me 3 seperate cuts brfore I decided to see what was going on. I came to the quick conclusion that the 20' hose running back to the DC probably should actually have been hooked up to the BS rather than simply laying on the floor 5 feet away. The DC was sucking its heart out and I was getting no pleasure, so to speak. |
#28
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![]() "Kevin" wrote in message news ![]() On Fri, 15 Jan 2010 13:53:41 -0600, "Leon" wrote: Snip I have a different one, the one from clearvuecyclones, but it's on a 30 gal steel drum. It's then hooked up to a network of 2-1/2" clear pvc piping with blast gates. What's really fun is if I forgot to open a gate the flex hosing between the cyclone and the piping shrinks and it will lift one end of the drum up in the air. LOL... I have a 20' x 4" hose hose attached to my DC and if I don't need 20' I run the hose up to a hook near the ceiling. Often the hose will hang about 4 inches above the floor and if I have the DC running the hose will gently swing around occasionally making contact with the floor. Reminds me of an elephant's trunk sniffing around for peanuts. Snip I clean the HEPA filter in the Fein every 3 months or so. Without the cyclone it would be at least every week. I have a Festool with dual HEPA filters and I have always used it with a bag. I do not use a cyclone or other container to catch the debris. The vac gets it all. I use the vac with my sanders and Domino 95% of the time and have been using it for almost 3 years. I have yet to clean or even see any dust on the HEPA filters. Are you using a bag with your Fein or have you considered doing that along with the cyclone to preserve the HEPA filters? Also in my case the bags don't seem to cut down on the flow until they are absolutely "packed" full of debris. Oddly enough I have sanded 3 kitchens plus all of my new bedroom furniture plus numerous other projects and cut in excess of 2000 mortises with my Domino and I am still only working on my second 22 liter bag. I checked the bag yesterday and it is about 25% filled. |
#29
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On Sat, 16 Jan 2010 00:44:44 -0600, "Leon"
wrote: "Kevin" wrote in message I clean the HEPA filter in the Fein every 3 months or so. Without the cyclone it would be at least every week. I have a Festool with dual HEPA filters and I have always used it with a bag. I do not use a cyclone or other container to catch the debris. The vac gets it all. I use the vac with my sanders and Domino 95% of the time and have been using it for almost 3 years. I have yet to clean or even see any dust on the HEPA filters. Are you using a bag with your Fein or have you considered doing that along with the cyclone to preserve the HEPA filters? Also in my case the bags don't seem to cut down on the flow until they are absolutely "packed" full of debris. Oddly enough I have sanded 3 kitchens plus all of my new bedroom furniture plus numerous other projects and cut in excess of 2000 mortises with my Domino and I am still only working on my second 22 liter bag. I checked the bag yesterday and it is about 25% filled. I don't use the Fein filters, I use one from Gore which is quite affordable and well made. That was one of my reasons for going with the Fein, a source for inexpensive filters. I'm not sure if the Fein bags would work with it but I guess they are cheap enough it would be worth trying. The saws and router table are where most of the debris is coming from but most of that doesn't make it to the filter. -Kevin |
#31
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Ken Moffett wrote:
GarageWoodworks wrote in news:71f4cf3c-e33c-4dc7-995b- legro ups.com: I recently reviewed the Dust Deputy DIY (Cyclone Only) and was very pleased with the results. For those of you (like me) with a small shop that relies on a shop-vac for saw dust clean-up and extraction this thing is a must. http://www.garagewoodworks.com/Dust_Deputy.php NO AFFILIATION YADA YADA YADA!! Just a very happy end-user. Brian www.garagewoodworks.com I'm a little late to this, but I wanted to share some modifications to the Dust Deputy bucket setup. Pictures are posted over on alt.binaries.pictures.woodworking 1. Rather than glue the cyclonic separator to the lid with silicone sealer, per instructions, I made a foam gasket. Easier to move to a new container in the future, if I need to. 2. The rigid latching edges on the lid's rim make it very hard to get the lid off to empty the bucket. I cut away the latches on the outer lip. Since the latches also hold the o- ring in place, I used spots of silicone sealer under it to hold it in place. 3. With the lid latches removed the lid can just pop off...and that's a good thing. I made three small clips out of strips of aluminum. They hook over the lid's rim and catch under one of the buckets annular ribs. 4. I wanted to make disposing of the saw dust easy, so I used garbage bags to line the bucket. Since the vacuum would suck the bag into the separator, I added a plywood weight, with finger holes, to hold the bag down and open. 5. I can't believe how well that seperator setup works. I use a ShopVac with the accourdian paper filter. It would plug very quickly with fine saw dust. With the Dust Deputy I was able to fill the bucket 2/3s full and had only a miniscule amount of sawdusw in the ShopVac. Be aware that this is a knock-off of the Clearvue Mini, and that Oneida is abusing the patent office to prevent sale of that product. Hey, Osama, Oneida Air Systems. |
#32
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Posted to rec.woodworking
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I bought a dust deputy a few years back and never got to use it becasue it was in two pieces ( flimsily made) so I just put it on the shelf for another day. Today I thought I'd finally try and fix it so I could use it. I contacted oneida who said there are two glues available but when I looked they say they do not stick to polyethelene. I understand this is a common problem with the older plastic dust deputy's which Oneida confirm it is and tell me they changed the design.
Am I glad I bought it - NO Would I buy another - No Way Would I recommend it - You would be a fool to buy one of these. Don't waste your money on this cheap flimsy bit of plastic. What am I going to do now. maybe make a youtube video to warn others and then throw it in the junk. |
#33
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#34
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On 4/23/14, 10:28 AM, wrote:
I bought a dust deputy a few years back and never got to use it becasue it was in two pieces ( flimsily made) so I just put it on the shelf for another day. Today I thought I'd finally try and fix it so I could use it. I contacted oneida who said there are two glues available but when I looked they say they do not stick to polyethelene. I understand this is a common problem with the older plastic dust deputy's which Oneida confirm it is and tell me they changed the design. Am I glad I bought it - NO Would I buy another - No Way Would I recommend it - You would be a fool to buy one of these. Don't waste your money on this cheap flimsy bit of plastic. What am I going to do now. maybe make a youtube video to warn others and then throw it in the junk. Are you saying it was damaged/broken on arrival? Don't you think they would've accepted a return and replaced it immediately had you notified them sooner than "a few years?" You're ripping on a company because of your foolishness and ripping on a product you never used. I look forward to your youtube video about this. Be sure to do two things. 1. Mention you didn't act on the situation until "a few years." 2. Turn off the youtube comments option unless you're want to read two hundred comments from people telling you what an idiot you are. :-) I won't go as far as calling you an idiot, but they certainly won't hold back. I think you're just frustrated and needed to vent and I get that. We've all done similar foolish things and that doesn't make us foolish... just temporarily for a time. :-) You paid the stupid tax, now move on.... but don't post that video unless you're a glutton for punishment. -- -MIKE- "Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life" --Elvin Jones (1927-2004) -- http://mikedrums.com ---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply |
#35
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![]() wrote in message ... I bought a dust deputy a few years back and never got to use it becasue it was in two pieces ( flimsily made) so I just put it on the shelf for another day. Today I thought I'd finally try and fix it so I could use it. I contacted oneida who said there are two glues available but when I looked they say they do not stick to polyethelene. I understand this is a common problem with the older plastic dust deputy's which Oneida confirm it is and tell me they changed the design. Am I glad I bought it - NO Would I buy another - No Way Would I recommend it - You would be a fool to buy one of these. Don't waste your money on this cheap flimsy bit of plastic. What am I going to do now. maybe make a youtube video to warn others and then throw it in the junk. Like this one? https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bs3uYLWpDYU Actually their products are ok, but their service sucks. |
#36
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Posted to rec.woodworking
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On 4/23/2014 10:28 AM, wrote:
I bought a dust deputy a few years back and never got to use it becasue it was in two pieces ( flimsily made) so I just put it on the shelf for another day. Today I thought I'd finally try and fix it so I could use it. I contacted oneida who said there are two glues available but when I looked they say they do not stick to polyethelene. I understand this is a common problem with the older plastic dust deputy's which Oneida confirm it is and tell me they changed the design. Am I glad I bought it - NO Would I buy another - No Way Would I recommend it - You would be a fool to buy one of these. Don't waste your money on this cheap flimsy bit of plastic. What am I going to do now. maybe make a youtube video to warn others and then throw it in the junk. I have one I purchases about 5 years ago and it came in one piece. All I had to do was bolt it to my chosen buck with lid. I could have purchased said buckets and hardware but why would I spend $70 more for 2 buckets with lids one with hole and some other useless hardware. I purchased 2 buckets at Lowes with lids for less than $10. It hasn't given me any grief other than my own stupidity of buying the wrong type lid so the first lid failed. I will eventually cut out an MDF lid, but for now it works good. -- All the Best Dale Miller Cookeville, Tennessee ASP since February 2005 Registered Linux User: #317401 Linux since June 2003 Registered Ubuntu User #26423 (cut the spam to reply) __ |
#37
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#38
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#39
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Posted to rec.woodworking
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This subject is one I'm very familiar with. I spent the past 5 years working on a research project in Chemical Engineering. Cyclonic Separators (also known as hydrocyclones) are a staple in this field. It's not Rocket Science, that's my other hobby... But seriously, if you understand a little algebra, you can find plug-and-chug formulas on the internet. If you understand calculus, there are some in-depth descriptions of the theory on-line, as well as some excellent text books*. All of the "operational" separators were made from 316 stainless due to the heat and possible reactivity, but we made several out of cardboard (and foamboard) and duct tape to add onto shopvacs to help clean up various spills.
*search for design and construction of cyclonic separators - the textbook we used is "Gas Cyclones and Swirl Tubes: Principles, Design, and Operation" by Hoffman and Stein - you might find a copy at your local library, or they might be able to get you a copy. |
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