My wife has an Adirondack chair her son made for her. It's been
sitting in the back yard for years. I tried to get her to let me paint
it or at least seal it, but she wanted it to weather.

Well, not it's broken. A clumbsy relative fell on it and broke one of
the arms. It's a very clean break. I want to glue it back together for
whatever life it has left.

Is yellow glue as good as it gets for this or it there something
better? It's made of redwood.

"Prof Wonmug" wrote in message
...
My wife has an Adirondack chair her son made for her. It's been
sitting in the back yard for years. I tried to get her to let me paint
it or at least seal it, but she wanted it to weather.

Well, not it's broken. A clumbsy relative fell on it and broke one of
the arms. It's a very clean break. I want to glue it back together for
whatever life it has left.

Is yellow glue as good as it gets for this or it there something
better? It's made of redwood.



Yellow glue will work for a while. You would be better off with a clear
epoxy glue.

On Tue, 8 Sep 2009 18:30:23 -0500, "Leon"
wrote:


"Prof Wonmug" wrote in message
.. .
My wife has an Adirondack chair her son made for her. It's been
sitting in the back yard for years. I tried to get her to let me paint
it or at least seal it, but she wanted it to weather.

Well, not it's broken. A clumbsy relative fell on it and broke one of
the arms. It's a very clean break. I want to glue it back together for
whatever life it has left.

Is yellow glue as good as it gets for this or it there something
better? It's made of redwood.

Yellow glue will work for a while. You would be better off with a clear
epoxy glue.

Any particular variety or brand? 1-minute? 5-minute? 1 ton? 5 ton? Is
there one that's better for wood.

I've worked with yellow glue for a long time and have a feel for how
to use it. I always seem to have a few problems with epoxy -- and I
seem to always get it all over myself. It's like those plastic peanuts
that literally fly out of the box and arrange themselves all over me.
Still, not as bad as crazy glue, which I am convinced is named for the
users, not the glue itself.

If you can really select anything on the planet then you couldn't do
better than System Three brand T-88 epoxy. This is what I use on my
Adirondack chairs in construction and I don't think you could find
anything better for a repair either... or you could show your love you
really care for her and buy a new chair from me ;^) www.sonomaproducts.com.
End of season sale!

On Sep 8, 4:49*pm, Prof Wonmug wrote:
On Tue, 8 Sep 2009 18:30:23 -0500, "Leon"
wrote:







"Prof Wonmug" wrote in message
.. .
My wife has an Adirondack chair her son made for her. It's been
sitting in the back yard for years. I tried to get her to let me paint
it or at least seal it, but she wanted it to weather.

Well, not it's broken. A clumbsy relative fell on it and broke one of
the arms. It's a very clean break. I want to glue it back together for
whatever life it has left.

Is yellow glue as good as it gets for this or it there something
better? It's made of redwood.

Yellow glue will work for a while. *You would be better off with a clear
epoxy glue.

Any particular variety or brand? 1-minute? 5-minute? 1 ton? 5 ton? Is
there one that's better for wood.

I've worked with yellow glue for a long time and have a feel for how
to use it. I always seem to have a few problems with epoxy -- and I
seem to always get it all over myself. It's like those plastic peanuts
that literally fly out of the box and arrange themselves all over me.
Still, not as bad as crazy glue, which I am convinced is named for the
users, not the glue itself.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

"Prof Wonmug" wrote:

Any particular variety or brand? 1-minute? 5-minute? 1 ton? 5 ton?
Is
there one that's better for wood.

Stay away from the quick (1-5 minute) stuff.

If you are anywhere near a West Marine store they will have West
System in all kind of kits which will include mixing sticks, mixing
cups, gloves, etc.

May be a little pricey, but it's "One Stop Shopping" and probably
every clerk in there has done some epoxy repair of some kind.

Have fun.

Lew

On Tue, 8 Sep 2009 17:12:17 -0700 (PDT), "SonomaProducts.com"
wrote:

If you can really select anything on the planet then you couldn't do
better than System Three brand T-88 epoxy. This is what I use on my
Adirondack chairs in construction and I don't think you could find
anything better for a repair either... or you could show your love you
really care for her and buy a new chair from me ;^) www.sonomaproducts.com.
End of season sale!

Livermore? Well, shucks, you're just up the road a piece. 'course,
right now, you're a mite hard to get to with the Bay Bridge shut down.
;-) Maybe we'll stop on by and take a gander.

I called around and no one carries T-88. What about Gorilla Glue?

I think just yellow glue would be insufficient as it is not outdoor nor
waterproof.
- shear strength is needed in the repair that the glue may not be able to
provide.

I would suggest epoxy, as it is waterproof, and can give the strength
needed.
Depending on the break, consider adding a spline or biscuit to ensure shear
strength is added back.
This might make a nearly invisible repair.

The son who built the chair, may have a recommendation. He may even still
have the pattern and be able to produce a new arm.



"Prof Wonmug" wrote in message
...
My wife has an Adirondack chair her son made for her. It's been
sitting in the back yard for years. I tried to get her to let me paint
it or at least seal it, but she wanted it to weather.

Well, not it's broken. A clumbsy relative fell on it and broke one of
the arms. It's a very clean break. I want to glue it back together for
whatever life it has left.

Is yellow glue as good as it gets for this or it there something
better? It's made of redwood.

On Wed, 09 Sep 2009 00:19:45 GMT, "Lew Hodgett"
wrote:


"Prof Wonmug" wrote:

Any particular variety or brand? 1-minute? 5-minute? 1 ton? 5 ton?
Is
there one that's better for wood.

Stay away from the quick (1-5 minute) stuff.

If you are anywhere near a West Marine store they will have West
System in all kind of kits which will include mixing sticks, mixing
cups, gloves, etc.

May be a little pricey, but it's "One Stop Shopping" and probably
every clerk in there has done some epoxy repair of some kind.

Have fun.

Lew

Yep, there's one about 20-30 minutes away. But with my history with
epoxy, wouldn't I be in mortal danger with a marine epoxy? I'd hate to
get my mast stuck to the wrong thing...

The problem with "good epoxy" is that it doesn't come in mini usage
packaging.
There are a number of brands ... West System, Cold Cure, System Three, East
System , MAS....

I agree that you should not use the 5 minute syringe" type.

Given your admissions, If you are near any Marinas or boat repair / boat
builder - they work with epoxy all the time, and might be worth the call,
or wait until the bridge is back in operation and have Sonomaproducts look
at it.



"Prof Wonmug" wrote in message
...
On Tue, 8 Sep 2009 17:12:17 -0700 (PDT), "SonomaProducts.com"
wrote:

If you can really select anything on the planet then you couldn't do
better than System Three brand T-88 epoxy. This is what I use on my
Adirondack chairs in construction and I don't think you could find
anything better for a repair either... or you could show your love you
really care for her and buy a new chair from me ;^)
www.sonomaproducts.com.
End of season sale!

Livermore? Well, shucks, you're just up the road a piece. 'course,
right now, you're a mite hard to get to with the Bay Bridge shut down.
;-) Maybe we'll stop on by and take a gander.

I called around and no one carries T-88. What about Gorilla Glue?

"Matt" wrote in message
...
The problem with "good epoxy" is that it doesn't come in mini usage
packaging.
There are a number of brands ... West System, Cold Cure, System Three,
East System , MAS....

I agree that you should not use the 5 minute syringe" type.

Given your admissions, If you are near any Marinas or boat repair / boat
builder - they work with epoxy all the time, and might be worth the call,
or wait until the bridge is back in operation and have Sonomaproducts look
at it.


IIRC "the bridge" was back in action for rush hour traffic this morning.
At least the news indicated that.

"Prof Wonmug" wrote:

Yep, there's one about 20-30 minutes away. But with my history with
epoxy, wouldn't I be in mortal danger with a marine epoxy? I'd hate
to
get my mast stuck to the wrong thing...

I know it sounds crazy, but..................

READ THE DIRECTIONS FIRST.

BTW, you have all variety of epoxy retaiklers in the Bay area.

You are not limited to W/M.


Have fun.

Lew

Prof Wonmug wrote:
My wife has an Adirondack chair her son made for her. It's been
sitting in the back yard for years. I tried to get her to let me paint
it or at least seal it, but she wanted it to weather.

Well, not it's broken. A clumbsy relative fell on it and broke one of
the arms. It's a very clean break. I want to glue it back together for
whatever life it has left.

Is yellow glue as good as it gets for this or it there something
better? It's made of redwood.

Everybody's suggesting epoxy, but wouldn't this be a good candidate for
Titebond III? I've used it on some exterior repairs and so far it's
been bulletproof...

--
"Even if your wife is happy but you're unhappy, you're still happier
than you'd be if you were happy and your wife was unhappy." - Red Green
To reply, eat the taco.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/bbqboyee/

"Steve Turner" wrote:

Everybody's suggesting epoxy, but wouldn't this be a good candidate
for Titebond III?

When it comes to repairs, quality epoxy is in a class by itself, if
for no other reason than it's ability to fill gaps and provide
strength in the process.

Again, for outdoor repairs, epoxy is in a class by itself.

Note the emphasis on "REPAIRS".

Lew

Lew Hodgett wrote:
"Steve Turner" wrote:

Everybody's suggesting epoxy, but wouldn't this be a good candidate
for Titebond III?

When it comes to repairs, quality epoxy is in a class by itself, if
for no other reason than it's ability to fill gaps and provide
strength in the process.

Again, for outdoor repairs, epoxy is in a class by itself.

Note the emphasis on "REPAIRS".

Lew

I've been using epoxy for probably half your life (a *long* time - LOL)
so I'm no stranger to it, but given the condition of the chair and how
much life is probably left in it I just think Titebond III would be a
no-brainer. There are just so many variables with epoxy; viscosity,
fillers, mixing ratios, curing times, special solvents required for
cleanup, etc. (not to mention that the good **** is *expensive*). And
dried-out redwood is going to *drink* that stuff if it's too runny
and/or slow curing; the joint will be weak if that happens. And if it's
me, I'm sure as hell going to get little drops of epoxy all over the
place; on my fingers, on the workpiece, fingerprints on the workpiece...
Just give me some Titebond III and a couple of clamps and I'm done.

Sorry Lew. :-)

--
"Even if your wife is happy but you're unhappy, you're still happier
than you'd be if you were happy and your wife was unhappy." - Red Green
To reply, eat the taco.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/bbqboyee/

Is it really that difficult to keep your hands off of your mast for an
entire 30 minutes cure time?

On Sep 8, 5:55*pm, Prof Wonmug wrote:
On Wed, 09 Sep 2009 00:19:45 GMT, "Lew Hodgett"





wrote:

"Prof Wonmug" wrote:

Any particular variety or brand? 1-minute? 5-minute? 1 ton? 5 ton?
Is
there one that's better for wood.

Stay away from the quick (1-5 minute) stuff.

If you are anywhere near a West Marine store they will have West
System in all kind of kits which will include mixing sticks, mixing
cups, gloves, etc.

May be a little pricey, but it's "One Stop Shopping" and probably
every clerk in there has done some epoxy repair of some kind.

Have fun.

Lew

Yep, there's one about 20-30 minutes away. But with my history with
epoxy, wouldn't I be in mortal danger with a marine epoxy? I'd hate to
get my mast stuck to the wrong thing...- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

Gorilla glue has some great advertising and a catchy name but every
real test I have seen ALWAYS puts it at the bottom of the list in
every category. Poly glues are probably OK and better than yellow glue
for this application. I would say it depends on the break. Glue might
not be the best answer in any case, it might need a splint or to scab
in a piece, etc.

On Sep 8, 5:41*pm, Prof Wonmug wrote:
On Tue, 8 Sep 2009 17:12:17 -0700 (PDT), "SonomaProducts.com"

wrote:
If you can really select anything on the planet then you couldn't do
better than System Three brand T-88 epoxy. This is what I use on my
Adirondack chairs in construction and I don't think you could find
anything better for a repair either... or you could show your love you
really care for her and buy a new chair from me ;^)www.sonomaproducts.com.
End of season sale!

Livermore? Well, shucks, you're just up the road a piece. 'course,
right now, you're a mite hard to get to with the Bay Bridge shut down.
;-) Maybe we'll stop on by and take a gander.

I called around and no one carries T-88. What about Gorilla Glue?

"Steve Turner" wrote:

I've been using epoxy for probably half your life (a *long* time -
LOL) so I'm no stranger to it, but given the condition of the chair
and how much life is probably left in it I just think Titebond III
would be a no-brainer. There are just so many variables with epoxy;
viscosity, fillers, mixing ratios, curing times, special solvents
required for cleanup, etc. (not to mention that the good **** is
*expensive*). And dried-out redwood is going to *drink* that stuff
if it's too runny and/or slow curing; the joint will be weak if that
happens. And if it's me, I'm sure as hell going to get little drops
of epoxy all over the place; on my fingers, on the workpiece,
fingerprints on the workpiece... Just give me some Titebond III and
a couple of clamps and I'm done.

I probably have left more epoxy unused in the bottom of the bucket
than a 1,000 repairs like this would use.

The point being that since I buy epoxy in 500 pound drums (55 gal), I
get a very good price on the stuff so can't really comment on the
retail price of epoxy; however, epoxy pricing is very much quantity
sensitive.

Prices in the $60-$90 for a gallon kit are not uncommon.

As far as the viscosity issue is concerned, anything above 60F on the
low end and out of direct sunlight on the high end works for me.

As far as proper mixing is concerned, throw away plastic cups (1OZ
thru 4OZ) insure accurate mixing.

A 30 lb bag of micro-balloons is about $25 which will last most people
at least two lifetimes.

Unless you want to develop contact dermatitis, you WILL use disposable
latex gloves which leave no fingerprintsG.

DAMHIKT.

If you need long open times, epoxy and a SLOW hardener will give you
30 minutes with out pushing it.

TiteBond II is less than half that, can't comment on T/B III.

Guess the message is that like anything else, if you follow the known
epoxy mixing and handling rules, the rewards are worth it.

T/BIII doesn't show me it it worth the shelf space in my shop, but
then I'm prejudiced.


Lew

It's funny... I have to agree - Gorilla Glue is awful stuff. Everytime
I've used it, I've been disapointed. However, Gorilla Tape - now that
stuff is incredible. Never found anything close. Wonder why they suck
at making glue, but excel with tape?



On Sep 9, 12:25*am, "SonomaProducts.com" wrote:
Gorilla glue has some great advertising and a catchy name but every
real test I have seen ALWAYS puts it at the bottom of the list in
every category. Poly glues are probably OK and better than yellow glue
for this application. I would say it depends on the break. Glue might
not be the best answer in any case, it might need a splint or to scab
in a piece, etc.

Prof Wonmug wrote:

I called around and no one carries T-88. What about Gorilla Glue?

Awful! Use epoxy, any epoxy.

--

dadiOH
____________________________

dadiOH's dandies v3.06...
....a help file of info about MP3s, recording from
LP/cassette and tips & tricks on this and that.
Get it at http://mysite.verizon.net/xico

Prof Wonmug wrote:
My wife has an Adirondack chair her son made for her. It's been
sitting in the back yard for years. I tried to get her to let me paint
it or at least seal it, but she wanted it to weather.

Well, not it's broken. A clumbsy relative fell on it and broke one of
the arms. It's a very clean break. I want to glue it back together for
whatever life it has left.

Is yellow glue as good as it gets for this or it there something
better? It's made of redwood.

I presume you mean that he split a piece off of one of the arms?

Personally I'd get out my old can of Weldwood Plastic Resin Glue. The
stuff's hard to find nowadays and you have to buy a pound of it for ten
bucks or so (that pound will likely last you the rest of your life) but it's
good stuff. As for durability, it's FAA approved for structural use on
production aircraft. Epoxy has all the glamor these days but the old
workhorse is cheap and good. Do read the label though and use it exactly as
directed.

Another alternative, find the nearest Woodcraft and see what they've
got--they should have T88 epoxy in a 1.6 ounce syringe for 20 bucks or
so--that should do the job nicely.

Or Titebond III--it's not going to be immersed and there should be enough
irregularity in the split to serve as a key and prevent creep.

On Tue, 08 Sep 2009 16:29:32 -0700, Prof Wonmug wrote:

My wife has an Adirondack chair her son made for her. It's been
sitting in the back yard for years. I tried to get her to let me paint
it or at least seal it, but she wanted it to weather.

Well, not it's broken. A clumbsy relative fell on it and broke one of
the arms. It's a very clean break. I want to glue it back together for
whatever life it has left.

Is yellow glue as good as it gets for this or it there something
better? It's made of redwood.


Use carpenters "waterproof" wood glue. Titebond or Elmers. I have
two redwood Adirondack chairs, going on their 16th year. I use a
clear "Flood" product, goes on milky and dries clear. (The
instructions say it dires in 24 hours, but it remains sticky for a
week.) You can bring back the red color if you clean it.

On Tue, 08 Sep 2009 16:49:12 -0700, Prof Wonmug wrote:

Any particular variety or brand? 1-minute? 5-minute? 1 ton? 5 ton? Is
there one that's better for wood.

I've worked with yellow glue for a long time and have a feel for how to
use it. I always seem to have a few problems with epoxy -- and I seem to
always get it all over myself.

While epoxy may be the best solution, if you're hesitant to use it I
think you'd do fine with Titebond III. Unless you're storing the chair
underwater :-).

--
Intelligence is an experiment that failed - G. B. Shaw

On Tue, 8 Sep 2009 17:12:17 -0700 (PDT), "SonomaProducts.com"
wrote:

If you can really select anything on the planet then you couldn't do
better than System Three brand T-88 epoxy. This is what I use on my
Adirondack chairs in construction and I don't think you could find
anything better for a repair either

OK. The T-88 just arrived. I couldn't find it in anuy local stores, so
I ordered it online.

A couple of questions:

The wood is very VERY dry. It was never finished or sealed in any way.
It's been sitting in the sun for 4-5 years. The entire chair weighs
next to nothing.

Should I dampen the surfaces before applying t6he T-88?

If so, how much and how long beforehand?

Any other preparation? The surfaces are clean and (very) dry.

I was planning on using a cheap brush to apply the epoxy. Any better
suggestions?

Thanks

PS: The bottle says to wear rubber gloves. Is that necessary for one
little patch?

Prof Wonmug wrote:
On Tue, 8 Sep 2009 17:12:17 -0700 (PDT), "SonomaProducts.com"
wrote:

If you can really select anything on the planet then you couldn't do
better than System Three brand T-88 epoxy. This is what I use on my
Adirondack chairs in construction and I don't think you could find
anything better for a repair either

OK. The T-88 just arrived. I couldn't find it in anuy local stores, so
I ordered it online.

A very good epoxy, and probably well suited to this job because it's a
bit thicker than some and won't soak into the wood like water. It also
cures in a reasonable amount of time.

A couple of questions:

The wood is very VERY dry. It was never finished or sealed in any way.
It's been sitting in the sun for 4-5 years. The entire chair weighs
next to nothing.

Should I dampen the surfaces before applying t6he T-88?

NO. This is epoxy, not polyurethane glue.

If so, how much and how long beforehand?

Any other preparation? The surfaces are clean and (very) dry.

You mean like sanding or the like? You could, but I doubt it would make
a lot of difference. I would brush an initial coat on both surfaces and
let it soak in for a while (10 minutes or so; if memory serves, T-88
takes a good half hour or more to start getting thick), and brush on
more if the wood drinks it up; you don't want the mating surfaces
starved of glue. I still think the Titebond III would have been the
easier choice, but I think you'll be fine.

I was planning on using a cheap brush to apply the epoxy. Any better
suggestions?

Nope, that'll do it.

Thanks

PS: The bottle says to wear rubber gloves. Is that necessary for one
little patch?

Your call; I probably wouldn't. As I recall, the cleanup solvent for
this epoxy is white vinegar, so I would have some of that handy.

--
Free bad advice available here.
To reply, eat the taco.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/bbqboyee/

On Thu, 17 Sep 2009 22:42:44 -0500, Steve Turner
wrote:

Prof Wonmug wrote:
On Tue, 8 Sep 2009 17:12:17 -0700 (PDT), "SonomaProducts.com"
wrote:

If you can really select anything on the planet then you couldn't do
better than System Three brand T-88 epoxy. This is what I use on my
Adirondack chairs in construction and I don't think you could find
anything better for a repair either

OK. The T-88 just arrived. I couldn't find it in anuy local stores, so
I ordered it online.

A very good epoxy, and probably well suited to this job because it's a
bit thicker than some and won't soak into the wood like water. It also
cures in a reasonable amount of time.

A couple of questions:

The wood is very VERY dry. It was never finished or sealed in any way.
It's been sitting in the sun for 4-5 years. The entire chair weighs
next to nothing.

Should I dampen the surfaces before applying t6he T-88?

NO. This is epoxy, not polyurethane glue.

I thought I read somewhere that dampening the surfaces a bit will keep
very dry wood from soaking up too much of the glue (expoy) leaving a
starved joint.

If so, how much and how long beforehand?

Any other preparation? The surfaces are clean and (very) dry.

You mean like sanding or the like? You could, but I doubt it would make
a lot of difference.

I think sanding would make things worse. It was a clean break along
the grain. The arm received a shearing force and the wood split
lengthwise. I am planning on fitting the pieces together. I already
tested it without any glue and they fit almost perfectly.

I would brush an initial coat on both surfaces and
let it soak in for a while (10 minutes or so; if memory serves, T-88
takes a good half hour or more to start getting thick), and brush on
more if the wood drinks it up; you don't want the mating surfaces
starved of glue.

The instructions say to let it sit for 30 minutes on wood. If there
are any dry spots, apply more.

I still think the Titebond III would have been the
easier choice, but I think you'll be fine.

I heard you, but I've used Titebond before, so this was a chance to
get some experience with a high-end epoxy. I've only used the
quick-set epoxies before.

I was planning on using a cheap brush to apply the epoxy. Any better
suggestions?

Nope, that'll do it.

Thanks

PS: The bottle says to wear rubber gloves. Is that necessary for one
little patch?

Your call; I probably wouldn't. As I recall, the cleanup solvent for
this epoxy is white vinegar, so I would have some of that handy.

Yes, it says to use white vinegar.

"Prof Wonmug" wrote:

A couple of questions:

Should I dampen the surfaces before applying t6he T-88?

Get a small can of denatured alcohol at the hardware store.

On the way home stop at Harbor Freight and get a box of latex surgical
gloves (About $5/box of 50 pairs) and depending on how big the patch
is some plumber's acid brushes and/or some 2" chip brushes.

Total cost, less than $10 with tax.

You will also want some throw away cups.

Mix up some epoxy, delute it about 5% with the alcohol and apply it to
the wood allowing it to soak into the wood.

Apply 2-3 coats as needed.

Wait about 2-4 hours, mix up some more epoxy and apply it to the wood
over the previous thinned epoxy.

Throw cups, brushes, gloves, etc in the trash, get a beer, and brag
about your accomplishments.

BTW, wear OLD shirt, no matter how careful you are, you will probably
get some on the shirt.

(Guys who regularly use epoxy buy a lot of clothes from the Salvation
Army store)

If you get any epoxy on your bare skin, strip down and get into the
shower as quickly as possible.

If you ever get sensitized to epoxy, you will wish you hadn't.

Have fun.

Lew

On Thu, 17 Sep 2009 22:14:03 -0700, "Lew Hodgett"
wrote:


"Prof Wonmug" wrote:

A couple of questions:

Should I dampen the surfaces before applying t6he T-88?

Get a small can of denatured alcohol at the hardware store.

On the way home stop at Harbor Freight and get a box of latex surgical
gloves (About $5/box of 50 pairs) and depending on how big the patch
is some plumber's acid brushes and/or some 2" chip brushes.

Total cost, less than $10 with tax.

You will also want some throw away cups.

Mix up some epoxy, delute it about 5% with the alcohol and apply it to
the wood allowing it to soak into the wood.

Is that 1 oart alcohol to 19 parts epoxy? In other words, just a small
amount of alcohol?

Apply 2-3 coats as needed.

To both sides, right?

How long between coats?

Wait about 2-4 hours, mix up some more epoxy and apply it to the wood
over the previous thinned epoxy.

Throw cups, brushes, gloves, etc in the trash, get a beer, and brag
about your accomplishments.

BTW, wear OLD shirt, no matter how careful you are, you will probably
get some on the shirt.

I should be so lucky as to only get it on my shirt.

(Guys who regularly use epoxy buy a lot of clothes from the Salvation
Army store)

If you get any epoxy on your bare skin, strip down and get into the
shower as quickly as possible.

Is this stuff more "toxic" than the 5-minute epoxies? I've used them
many times, typically get a fair amount on my hands, and never had a
reaction.

If you ever get sensitized to epoxy, you will wish you hadn't.

Have fun.

Lew

I get a bit on me now and then but do usually wear gloves. The
instructions are pretty clear they don't want you getting it on your
skin so I assume it has some level of toxicity. If you have some
gloves available, I would use them.

I usually mix up some in a dixie cup or bowl. I let it thicken for 10
minutes or so then slather it on pretty thick. I usually use a trimmed
flux brush but I am doing little areas. I don't think you can go wrong
with this stuff. Doing a pre-glue or "sizing" as some suggest is
probably a great idea if you are gluing any end grain, good for yellow
glue also, but I wouldn't think it is necessary on face gluing no
matter how dry. This stuff is thick.


On Sep 17, 10:47*pm, Prof Wonmug wrote:
On Thu, 17 Sep 2009 22:14:03 -0700, "Lew Hodgett"





wrote:

"Prof Wonmug" wrote:

A couple of questions:

Should I dampen the surfaces before applying t6he T-88?

Get a small can of denatured alcohol at the hardware store.

On the way home stop at Harbor Freight and get a box of latex surgical
gloves (About $5/box of 50 pairs) and depending on how big the patch
is some plumber's acid brushes and/or some 2" chip brushes.

Total cost, less than $10 with tax.

You will also want some throw away cups.

Mix up some epoxy, delute it about 5% with the alcohol and apply it to
the wood allowing it to soak into the wood.

Is that 1 oart alcohol to 19 parts epoxy? In other words, just a small
amount of alcohol?

Apply 2-3 coats as needed.

To both sides, right?

How long between coats?

Wait about 2-4 hours, mix up some more epoxy and apply it to the wood
over the previous thinned epoxy.

Throw cups, brushes, gloves, etc in the trash, get a beer, and brag
about your accomplishments.

BTW, wear OLD shirt, no matter how careful you are, you will probably
get some on the shirt.

I should be so lucky as to only get it on my shirt.

(Guys who regularly use epoxy buy a lot of clothes from the Salvation
Army store)

If you get any epoxy on your bare skin, strip down and get into the
shower as quickly as possible.

Is this stuff more "toxic" than the 5-minute epoxies? I've used them
many times, typically get a fair amount on my hands, and never had a
reaction.



If you ever get sensitized to epoxy, you will wish you hadn't.

Have fun.

Lew- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

"Lew Hodgett" wrote in message
...

"Prof Wonmug" wrote:

A couple of questions:

Should I dampen the surfaces before applying t6he T-88?

Get a small can of denatured alcohol at the hardware store.

On the way home stop at Harbor Freight and get a box of latex surgical
gloves (About $5/box of 50 pairs) and depending on how big the patch is
some plumber's acid brushes and/or some 2" chip brushes.

I used a pair of those on my last epoxy job. They really helped make the
task
a breeze--especially when wiping off the excess.



BTW, wear OLD shirt, no matter how careful you are, you will probably get
some on the shirt.

(Guys who regularly use epoxy buy a lot of clothes from the Salvation Army
store)

I recently stopped in at Goodwill to buy more pants for yard work.
Turned out they had one pair that fit me but they are nicer than the pants
I usually wear, and like new. So I still need to buy more pants for yard
work...

Bill

"Prof Wonmug" wrote:

Is that 1 oart alcohol to 19 parts epoxy? In other words, just a
small
amount of alcohol?

Just a smell.

I just eyeball it, it's not critical, anything from 4%-6%.

Know the old joke about a dry martini?

How much vermouth in a dry martini?

Stand on the other side of the room and spell "vermouth" quietlyG.

To both sides, right?

Absolutely.

How long between coats?

5 minutes maybe, you are simply trying to get the epoxy to penetrate
the and seal the wood and establish a base for the final coat.

Didn't understand this was a chair arm repair when I made previous
post.

With that info, I would wait maybe 15 minutes after last coat of
thinned epoxy, the apply finish coat and clamp pieces only enough to
hold pieces in position.

I should be so lucky as to only get it on my shirt.

Old clothes RULE.

Is this stuff more "toxic" than the 5-minute epoxies? I've used them
many times, typically get a fair amount on my hands, and never had a
reaction.

NO but being exposed to epoxy is cumulative.

One day you wake up and are sensitized.

BTW, wrap your clamp pads with some waxed paper or plastic so the pads
so they won't leave any marks on the wood.

Have fun.

Lew

On Thu, 17 Sep 2009 23:30:50 -0700, "Lew Hodgett"
wrote:


"Prof Wonmug" wrote:

Is that 1 oart alcohol to 19 parts epoxy? In other words, just a
small
amount of alcohol?

Just a smell.

I just eyeball it, it's not critical, anything from 4%-6%.

Know the old joke about a dry martini?

How much vermouth in a dry martini?

Stand on the other side of the room and spell "vermouth" quietlyG.

To both sides, right?

Absolutely.

How long between coats?

5 minutes maybe, you are simply trying to get the epoxy to penetrate
the and seal the wood and establish a base for the final coat.

Didn't understand this was a chair arm repair when I made previous
post.

With that info, I would wait maybe 15 minutes after last coat of
thinned epoxy, the apply finish coat and clamp pieces only enough to
hold pieces in position.

Yep, that's what the instructions say. Do not clamp too hard.

I should be so lucky as to only get it on my shirt.

Old clothes RULE.

Is this stuff more "toxic" than the 5-minute epoxies? I've used them
many times, typically get a fair amount on my hands, and never had a
reaction.

NO but being exposed to epoxy is cumulative.

One day you wake up and are sensitized.

I didn't know that. Thanks. I'll get some gloves.

BTW, wrap your clamp pads with some waxed paper or plastic so the pads
so they won't leave any marks on the wood.

Have fun.

Lew

On Fri, 18 Sep 2009 02:25:11 -0400, "Bill"
wrote:


"Lew Hodgett" wrote in message
.. .

"Prof Wonmug" wrote:

A couple of questions:

Should I dampen the surfaces before applying t6he T-88?

Get a small can of denatured alcohol at the hardware store.

On the way home stop at Harbor Freight and get a box of latex surgical
gloves (About $5/box of 50 pairs) and depending on how big the patch is
some plumber's acid brushes and/or some 2" chip brushes.

I used a pair of those on my last epoxy job. They really helped make the
task
a breeze--especially when wiping off the excess.



BTW, wear OLD shirt, no matter how careful you are, you will probably get
some on the shirt.

(Guys who regularly use epoxy buy a lot of clothes from the Salvation Army
store)

I recently stopped in at Goodwill to buy more pants for yard work.
Turned out they had one pair that fit me but they are nicer than the pants
I usually wear, and like new. So I still need to buy more pants for yard
work...

Reminds me of the joke about the guy who couldn't afford to send his
shirts to the cleaners, so he donated them to the Goodwill, then went
in and bought them back for 25 cents after they cleaned them. ;-)

Prof Wonmug" wrote:

I didn't know that. Thanks. I'll get some gloves.

Harbor Freight is your friend when it comes to consumables like latex
surgical gloves.

Lew

On Thu, 17 Sep 2009 22:14:03 -0700, "Lew Hodgett"
wrote:


"Prof Wonmug" wrote:

A couple of questions:

Should I dampen the surfaces before applying t6he T-88?

Get a small can of denatured alcohol at the hardware store.

Denatured alcohol is just ethyl alcohol with some stuff added to make
undrinkable, right?

I have a bottle of rubbing alcohol. It says it's 70% ethyl alcohol.
The inactive ingredients are acetone, denatonium benzoate, methyl
isobutyl ketone, and water. Can I use it to dilute the epoxy?

"Prof Wonmug" wrote:

I have a bottle of rubbing alcohol. It says it's 70% ethyl alcohol.

Leave that crap in the medicine cabinet.

It contains water.

No good for epoxy.

Lew

On Fri, 18 Sep 2009 09:27:56 -0700, "Lew Hodgett"
wrote:


"Prof Wonmug" wrote:

I have a bottle of rubbing alcohol. It says it's 70% ethyl alcohol.

Leave that crap in the medicine cabinet.

Crap? Have you tried it with a little OJ or a beer chaser?

On Thu, 17 Sep 2009 23:30:50 -0700, "Lew Hodgett"
wrote:


"Prof Wonmug" wrote:

Is that 1 oart alcohol to 19 parts epoxy? In other words, just a
small
amount of alcohol?

Just a smell.

I just eyeball it, it's not critical, anything from 4%-6%.

I put two ribbons of epoxy in a dish, mixed a bit, and added a splash
of denatured alcohol. As far as I could tell, this did not affect the
epoxy mixture at all. It was just as thick as before.

I applied one coat to the two pieces. as far as I could tell, it did
not penetrate at all. It certainly did not disappear.

Now, I am reluctant to apply 2-3 coats of fear of getting too much
build-up and losing the nice fit from the clean (ragged) break.

I think I'll just apply it full strength and clamp.

"Prof Wonmug" wrote:

I think I'll just apply it full strength and clamp.

Go for it.

Lew

Prof Wonmug wrote:
On Thu, 17 Sep 2009 23:30:50 -0700, "Lew Hodgett"
wrote:

"Prof Wonmug" wrote:

Is that 1 oart alcohol to 19 parts epoxy? In other words, just a
small
amount of alcohol?
Just a smell.

I just eyeball it, it's not critical, anything from 4%-6%.

I put two ribbons of epoxy in a dish, mixed a bit, and added a splash
of denatured alcohol. As far as I could tell, this did not affect the
epoxy mixture at all. It was just as thick as before.

I applied one coat to the two pieces. as far as I could tell, it did
not penetrate at all. It certainly did not disappear.

Now, I am reluctant to apply 2-3 coats of fear of getting too much
build-up and losing the nice fit from the clean (ragged) break.

I think I'll just apply it full strength and clamp.

I wasn't going to say anything because Lew appears to know more about
epoxy than most other humans, but I didn't think the alcohol thing was
going to work. System Three T-88 appears to be a bit of a different
animal relative to most other epoxies. The "clean up with white
vinegar" thing puzzled me right away; nothing short of lacquer thinner
or acetone would touch most of the other brands I've used.

--
See Nad. See Nad go. Go Nad!
To reply, eat the taco.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/bbqboyee/

"Steve Turner" wrote:

I wasn't going to say anything because Lew appears to know more
about epoxy than most other humans, but I didn't think the alcohol
thing was going to work. System Three T-88 appears to be a bit of a
different animal relative to most other epoxies. The "clean up with
white vinegar" thing puzzled me right away; nothing short of lacquer
thinner or acetone would touch most of the other brands I've used.

Have no direct experience with T-88; however, have used several
thousand pounds of S-3 laminating resin.

From the sounds of it, appears T-88 is loaded with some type of
filler(s) which would mean getting the alcohol absorbed into the mix
may require a lot of elbow grease.

As far as clean up is concerned, nothing short of stripping down and
taking as cold a shower as you can tolerate has ever worked for me.

Solvents such as lacquer thinner, acetone, white vinegar, etc, never
worked very well for me.

A scrub brush with Boraxo and cold water gets off the heavy stuff
until you hit the shower.

Lew