"Steve Turner" wrote:

I've been using epoxy for probably half your life (a *long* time -
LOL) so I'm no stranger to it, but given the condition of the chair
and how much life is probably left in it I just think Titebond III
would be a no-brainer. There are just so many variables with epoxy;
viscosity, fillers, mixing ratios, curing times, special solvents
required for cleanup, etc. (not to mention that the good **** is
*expensive*). And dried-out redwood is going to *drink* that stuff
if it's too runny and/or slow curing; the joint will be weak if that
happens. And if it's me, I'm sure as hell going to get little drops
of epoxy all over the place; on my fingers, on the workpiece,
fingerprints on the workpiece... Just give me some Titebond III and
a couple of clamps and I'm done.

I probably have left more epoxy unused in the bottom of the bucket
than a 1,000 repairs like this would use.

The point being that since I buy epoxy in 500 pound drums (55 gal), I
get a very good price on the stuff so can't really comment on the
retail price of epoxy; however, epoxy pricing is very much quantity
sensitive.

Prices in the $60-$90 for a gallon kit are not uncommon.

As far as the viscosity issue is concerned, anything above 60F on the
low end and out of direct sunlight on the high end works for me.

As far as proper mixing is concerned, throw away plastic cups (1OZ
thru 4OZ) insure accurate mixing.

A 30 lb bag of micro-balloons is about $25 which will last most people
at least two lifetimes.

Unless you want to develop contact dermatitis, you WILL use disposable
latex gloves which leave no fingerprintsG.

DAMHIKT.

If you need long open times, epoxy and a SLOW hardener will give you
30 minutes with out pushing it.

TiteBond II is less than half that, can't comment on T/B III.

Guess the message is that like anything else, if you follow the known
epoxy mixing and handling rules, the rewards are worth it.

T/BIII doesn't show me it it worth the shelf space in my shop, but
then I'm prejudiced.


Lew