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Prof Wonmug Prof Wonmug is offline
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Default Yellow glue or ??? for Adirondack chair?

On Thu, 17 Sep 2009 22:42:44 -0500, Steve Turner
wrote:

Prof Wonmug wrote:
On Tue, 8 Sep 2009 17:12:17 -0700 (PDT), "SonomaProducts.com"
wrote:

If you can really select anything on the planet then you couldn't do
better than System Three brand T-88 epoxy. This is what I use on my
Adirondack chairs in construction and I don't think you could find
anything better for a repair either


OK. The T-88 just arrived. I couldn't find it in anuy local stores, so
I ordered it online.


A very good epoxy, and probably well suited to this job because it's a
bit thicker than some and won't soak into the wood like water. It also
cures in a reasonable amount of time.

A couple of questions:

The wood is very VERY dry. It was never finished or sealed in any way.
It's been sitting in the sun for 4-5 years. The entire chair weighs
next to nothing.

Should I dampen the surfaces before applying t6he T-88?


NO. This is epoxy, not polyurethane glue.


I thought I read somewhere that dampening the surfaces a bit will keep
very dry wood from soaking up too much of the glue (expoy) leaving a
starved joint.

If so, how much and how long beforehand?

Any other preparation? The surfaces are clean and (very) dry.


You mean like sanding or the like? You could, but I doubt it would make
a lot of difference.


I think sanding would make things worse. It was a clean break along
the grain. The arm received a shearing force and the wood split
lengthwise. I am planning on fitting the pieces together. I already
tested it without any glue and they fit almost perfectly.

I would brush an initial coat on both surfaces and
let it soak in for a while (10 minutes or so; if memory serves, T-88
takes a good half hour or more to start getting thick), and brush on
more if the wood drinks it up; you don't want the mating surfaces
starved of glue.


The instructions say to let it sit for 30 minutes on wood. If there
are any dry spots, apply more.

I still think the Titebond III would have been the
easier choice, but I think you'll be fine.


I heard you, but I've used Titebond before, so this was a chance to
get some experience with a high-end epoxy. I've only used the
quick-set epoxies before.

I was planning on using a cheap brush to apply the epoxy. Any better
suggestions?


Nope, that'll do it.

Thanks

PS: The bottle says to wear rubber gloves. Is that necessary for one
little patch?


Your call; I probably wouldn't. As I recall, the cleanup solvent for
this epoxy is white vinegar, so I would have some of that handy.


Yes, it says to use white vinegar.