wood is the preferred floor for several reasons:

1. drop a chisel, tip down, onto a concrete floor. what do you get? a
damaged tool. drop it on wood instead. what do you get? satisfaction!

2. easier on the feet and legs.

3. a bit warmer than a concrete slab.

That's all that comes to mind at the moment. I'm sure others will chime in.

dave

Puff Griffis wrote:

Why the wood floor Dave and is this in preference to concrete ? I am about to set up a new shop and wondered what was better.
Puff

"Bay Area Dave" wrote in message m...

I installed a retractable reel about a week ago but will be relocating
it from near the compressor to nearly the center of the shop, because
there is only about 21' feet of hose which gets caught up on the TS and
other equipment when I drag it over to the workbench on the wall
opposite the reel.

Five wall cabinets to hold and hide lots of stuff! Plus keep most of
the dust off those items.

An overhead retractable 110V cord with a 3-outlet molded plug.

Can I give more than three? Here goes:

painted the walls semi-gloss white.

Lot's of light: 11 4 foot fluorescents in a two car "studio" g

Weather striped the door to stop drafts; the shop is much warmer in the
winter because of that one improvement.

Just added a TV last week to supplement the CD player, cassette
player/radio.


What I'd like to have but won't (do to one thing or another)

1. Utility basin
2. A John
3. more R-O-O-M
4. higher ceiling
5. wood floor



dave





Rich Stern wrote:


I just finished a project and was cleaning up the shop, moving stuff around to
get at all the sawdust, putting tools back, etc. I was musing about changes
I've made to my workshop over the years, thinking about the successes and the
failures. Here's what I came up with for my best three:

1) Compressed air from an overhead, retractable reel. How the heck did I get
through the early years without this? I leave my portable compressor hooked up
via quick disconnect to a feed line for the overhead reel. I can disconnect
and roll out quickly if I need the compressor in the yard, garage, or at a
neighbor's. The reel also has a quick disconnect, stuffed with a blowgun when
not using any other air tools. This setup is great for woodworking, but the
air gets used for all kinds of other tasks, too.

2) Stopped overcrowding the shop with machines. For years, my semi-portable
power tools were set up and ready to work. Visions of moving from station to
station with effortless efficiency. I thought it made projects go faster. The
opposite is true. As I run low on space, the shop gets messy and projects
begin to crawl. Now I take out the miter saw, belt/disk sander, scroll saw,
etc. only when needed. The rest of the time, I enjoy the free space around the
bigger machines. The shop stays much cleaner.

3) Rolling tool chest. You know, the mechanic's type. Just a low end,
stacking unit from Lowes. Measuring tools, wrenches, sockets, screwdrivers,
drill bits, etc, stay organized and dust free, and I can wheel the thing around
if needed. My pegboarding of all this stuff never stayed organized. Somehow,
I manage to keep it neat in the rolling cabinet.

What are your best three easy imrpovements?

BTW, the burst pressure of L is MORE than 2,600 PSI. I couldn't find
the exact figure, but it's MORE than that. also, the 175 PSI figure I
mentioned was for a 2 stage, 3 phase compressor I had for the auto shop...

dave

Mark and Kim Smith wrote:

Hmmmm, a couple of questions. What pressure are you running your air
system at and does anyone know the pressure rating of "L" copper??

Bay Area Dave wrote:

just got done moving the air hose reel from the wall opposite my work
bench, to overhead, near the bench. Why didn't I install one years
ago??? Used 1/2" "L" copper pipe. Was a breeze to install except for
getting to one of the mounting screws behind the reel. Attacked it
with a quarter inch ratchet and ultra short phillips bit.

dave

Rich Stern wrote:

I just finished a project and was cleaning up the shop, moving stuff
around to
get at all the sawdust, putting tools back, etc. I was musing about
changes
I've made to my workshop over the years, thinking about the successes
and the
failures. Here's what I came up with for my best three:

1) Compressed air from an overhead, retractable reel. How the heck
did I get
through the early years without this? I leave my portable compressor
hooked up
via quick disconnect to a feed line for the overhead reel. I can
disconnect
and roll out quickly if I need the compressor in the yard, garage, or
at a
neighbor's. The reel also has a quick disconnect, stuffed with a
blowgun when
not using any other air tools. This setup is great for woodworking,
but the
air gets used for all kinds of other tasks, too.

2) Stopped overcrowding the shop with machines. For years, my
semi-portable
power tools were set up and ready to work. Visions of moving from
station to
station with effortless efficiency. I thought it made projects go
faster. The
opposite is true. As I run low on space, the shop gets messy and
projects
begin to crawl. Now I take out the miter saw, belt/disk sander,
scroll saw,
etc. only when needed. The rest of the time, I enjoy the free space
around the
bigger machines. The shop stays much cleaner.

3) Rolling tool chest. You know, the mechanic's type. Just a low end,
stacking unit from Lowes. Measuring tools, wrenches, sockets,
screwdrivers,
drill bits, etc, stay organized and dust free, and I can wheel the
thing around
if needed. My pegboarding of all this stuff never stayed organized.
Somehow,
I manage to keep it neat in the rolling cabinet.

What are your best three easy imrpovements?

On 06 Feb 2004 04:38:59 GMT, (Rich Stern) scribbled:

What are your best three easy imrpovements?

1. One day I got ****ed off at all the extensions and blowing
breakers, and installed two new circuits with outlets on the ceiling
every 6' or so. Wired like a (Canadian?) kitchen so the two plugs in
each duplex outlet are on separate circuits. It helps that the ceiling
is only a little over 7' high.

2. Put wheels on my Makita 2040 planer.

3. Put in 4 low temperature 8'fluorescent fixtures. They start up even
when the shop is at 20 below (-4F, Keith).

4. Got me a cheap Crappy Tire rolling mechanic's tool box. I keep my
measuring tools, sandpaper, drill bits and accessories, ratchet set in
separate drawers.

5. Put in a cheap IKEA-style termite-puke bookcase that we had around
to keep all my fasteners.

6. Screwed a few 1X3s to the ceiling joists. Great for storing planes,
pipe clamps, etc..

Ok, it's more than three but, as you all know, there are three kinds
of people, those who can count and those who can't.

Luigi
Note the new email address.
Please adjust your krillfiles (tmAD) accordingly
Replace "nonet" with "yukonomics" for real email address

I've been reading the threads on using plastic pipe of various material
and problems with them either shrapneling or blowing. Shops I work in
use the systems built back in the 50's, 60's and 70's consisting of
galvanized pipe. Tried and true systems. So why not use the tried and
true ways I tend to ask myself?? The ol' "Pay me now or pay me later"
If you treat them right ( bleed moisture nightly, etc ) they'll last
forever. Or, you can keep patching your plastic pipe over and over.
Even if you saved money up front, you'll probably lose that in materials
for repair and labor to do it. Don't know as I have no experience with
plastic. Just the concerns I read from others.

As for "L" copper, sounds like it has the proper rating so it'll work
just fine. Same way to assemble?? By soldering joints, etc? As for 2
stage, 3 phase etc, type of compressor, that doesn't mean anything.
What counts the most is the setting of your relief valve or "popoff"
valve in your system. Most are set at 150 psi. Most systems run at 120
psi or so. Most all "bought" compressors have the relief valve built
in, no need to add it to the system. A nice thing to add would be an
automatic spitter to bleed off moisture and scare folks that aren't used
to hearing such a thing!

Along the automotive lines, if you need something flexible in a
permanent air line, hydraulic one-wire hose would work. It'll get you
around corners pretty easy and last forever. Too tough to use at the
tool end though. It has a working pressure of 2500 ( for 3/8" if I
remember correctly. Should increase for larger sizes. Largest size I
have worked with was about 2" on a 35 ton rough terrain crane. ) With a
burst much higher than that. We're talking Parker or Aeroquip stuff.
And no need to press fittings as both manufacturers make reusable fittings.

Bay Area Dave wrote:

BTW, the burst pressure of L is MORE than 2,600 PSI. I couldn't find
the exact figure, but it's MORE than that. also, the 175 PSI figure I
mentioned was for a 2 stage, 3 phase compressor I had for the auto
shop...

dave

Mark and Kim Smith wrote:

Hmmmm, a couple of questions. What pressure are you running your
air system at and does anyone know the pressure rating of "L" copper??

Bay Area Dave wrote:

just got done moving the air hose reel from the wall opposite my
work bench, to overhead, near the bench. Why didn't I install one
years ago??? Used 1/2" "L" copper pipe. Was a breeze to install
except for getting to one of the mounting screws behind the reel.
Attacked it with a quarter inch ratchet and ultra short phillips bit.

dave

Rich Stern wrote:

I just finished a project and was cleaning up the shop, moving
stuff around to
get at all the sawdust, putting tools back, etc. I was musing
about changes
I've made to my workshop over the years, thinking about the
successes and the
failures. Here's what I came up with for my best three:

1) Compressed air from an overhead, retractable reel. How the heck
did I get
through the early years without this? I leave my portable
compressor hooked up
via quick disconnect to a feed line for the overhead reel. I can
disconnect
and roll out quickly if I need the compressor in the yard, garage,
or at a
neighbor's. The reel also has a quick disconnect, stuffed with a
blowgun when
not using any other air tools. This setup is great for
woodworking, but the
air gets used for all kinds of other tasks, too.

2) Stopped overcrowding the shop with machines. For years, my
semi-portable
power tools were set up and ready to work. Visions of moving from
station to
station with effortless efficiency. I thought it made projects go
faster. The
opposite is true. As I run low on space, the shop gets messy and
projects
begin to crawl. Now I take out the miter saw, belt/disk sander,
scroll saw,
etc. only when needed. The rest of the time, I enjoy the free
space around the
bigger machines. The shop stays much cleaner.

3) Rolling tool chest. You know, the mechanic's type. Just a low
end,
stacking unit from Lowes. Measuring tools, wrenches, sockets,
screwdrivers,
drill bits, etc, stay organized and dust free, and I can wheel the
thing around
if needed. My pegboarding of all this stuff never stayed
organized. Somehow,
I manage to keep it neat in the rolling cabinet.

What are your best three easy imrpovements?

On Sun, 08 Feb 2004 06:42:08 GMT, Bay Area Dave wrote:

wood is the preferred floor for several reasons:

1. drop a chisel, tip down,

Do they ever land any other way? G

Barry

Mark and Kim Smith wrote:

As for "L" copper, sounds like it has the proper rating so it'll work
just fine. Same way to assemble?? By soldering joints, etc?

Many indusrial applications are being done with copper. One advantave oer
pipe is ease of change. Want to add another branch? With pipe, you may
have to break 10 joints from the new spot to the nearest union. With
copper, you just cut and put in a "T" where needed. --
Ed

http://pages.cthome.net/edhome

Weegie wrote:
1. One day I got ****ed off at all the extensions and blowing
breakers, and installed two new circuits with outlets on the ceiling
every 6' or so. Wired like a (Canadian?) kitchen so the two plugs in
each duplex outlet are on separate circuits. It helps that the ceiling
is only a little over 7' high.

So far I have the one outlet above the assembly area bench
but I'm leaning towards another in a spot where the jointer,
planer, band saw and An Ultimate Router Table have decided
were a good spot to call their home. None get used
simultaneously so one circuit should/would work out with a
4-way box.

2. Put wheels on my Makita 2040 planer.

sigh... I found a nicely constructed roll around rack mount
(for A/V devices) for free and it recently began it's new
life as a roll around for the Delta lunch box planer.

3. Put in 4 low temperature 8'fluorescent fixtures. They start up even
when the shop is at 20 below (-4F, Keith).

Sweater weather, right?

4. Got me a cheap Crappy Tire rolling mechanic's tool box. I keep my
measuring tools, sandpaper, drill bits and accessories, ratchet set in
separate drawers.

Not gone there yet as I have entirely too much/many foot
prints already. Maybe I'll have me something once I've
eBay'd a few things more. In the mean time, my next big
project are some cabinets along two walls with shallow
drawers. I calc'd out that two 8'ish cabinets would mean
making 60ish drawer/trays. I'm figuring this would be
tantamount to going from dirt roads to an 8-lane Interstate
(highway Luigi).

5. Put in a cheap IKEA-style termite-puke bookcase that we had around
to keep all my fasteners.

Something similar/the same, I made shallow (3" deep)
cabinets (from scrap/you don't really even need a back for
these) that are sprinkled about the shoppe for
infrastructure items. On the up side, I've not had to go
digging for anything in the last three years.

6. Screwed a few 1X3s to the ceiling joists. Great for storing planes,
pipe clamps, etc..

Similar but different, we have 3" diameter cardboard tubes
left over from our plotter at work. Some of these have
ended up in between the joists for holding "better
rippings", dowels and anything else that's long and skinny.

Ok, it's more than three but, as you all know, there are three kinds
of people, those who can count and those who can't.

The math works for me.

UA100

On Sun, 08 Feb 2004 03:36:56 GMT, Tim Carver
brought forth from the murky depths:

2) Mounted my outfeed table top on 28" drawer slides. The table is
28" deep,so when it's pushed in, it doesn't get in my way. When I
push it out, it extends out to 56" behind the saw (60" past the blade)
which is just long enough to handle 8' stock, and I can move it in and
out without even walking around to the back of the saw. After
suffering for years with temp supports and and later a large fixed
table that took too much room, I'm really happy with this solution.

Great! I've been trying to come up with something similar on wheels
for Dina and you found it for me. Do you have part of the sliding
section as a flat area with a stop to make it work? Slots in the
immovable part for the larger sled? Thanks for the ideas!

------------- -----------
T===========| | slider ||stop
S===========| | ||
------------- -----------


3) Replaced shelves under my bench with simple shallow
pullouts. This was so easy to do it isn't funny, and it improved the
cleanliness of my shop a ton, because I can now get a lot more stuff
neatly arranged on the pullouts than I ever could on the shelves.

In visualizing what you did, I decided that my smaller tailed tools
would benefit by being placed on a shallow sliding drawer under the
assembly table. I think I'll add one to the mechanics vise bench, too.
Now to find an Accuride set that slides both ways for the pair on
the assembly bench and devise a simple center detent to keep it in
place when I roll the bench around. A spring-loaded inline skate
wheel in a rounded V-groove ought to do the trick.

-
The only reason I would take up exercising is || http://diversify.com
so that I could hear heavy breathing again. || Programmed Websites

yep, I used some leftover 4" light guage PVC leftovers, cut in 6" long
pieces and screwed to the joists ~24" apart. any little diameter "good
stuff" that will span 2 or more gets saved there.

BRuce

Unisaw A100 wrote:
Weegie wrote:

1. One day I got ****ed off at all the extensions and blowing
breakers, and installed two new circuits with outlets on the ceiling
every 6' or so. Wired like a (Canadian?) kitchen so the two plugs in
each duplex outlet are on separate circuits. It helps that the ceiling
is only a little over 7' high.


So far I have the one outlet above the assembly area bench
but I'm leaning towards another in a spot where the jointer,
planer, band saw and An Ultimate Router Table have decided
were a good spot to call their home. None get used
simultaneously so one circuit should/would work out with a
4-way box.


2. Put wheels on my Makita 2040 planer.


sigh... I found a nicely constructed roll around rack mount
(for A/V devices) for free and it recently began it's new
life as a roll around for the Delta lunch box planer.


3. Put in 4 low temperature 8'fluorescent fixtures. They start up even
when the shop is at 20 below (-4F, Keith).


Sweater weather, right?


4. Got me a cheap Crappy Tire rolling mechanic's tool box. I keep my
measuring tools, sandpaper, drill bits and accessories, ratchet set in
separate drawers.


Not gone there yet as I have entirely too much/many foot
prints already. Maybe I'll have me something once I've
eBay'd a few things more. In the mean time, my next big
project are some cabinets along two walls with shallow
drawers. I calc'd out that two 8'ish cabinets would mean
making 60ish drawer/trays. I'm figuring this would be
tantamount to going from dirt roads to an 8-lane Interstate
(highway Luigi).


5. Put in a cheap IKEA-style termite-puke bookcase that we had around
to keep all my fasteners.


Something similar/the same, I made shallow (3" deep)
cabinets (from scrap/you don't really even need a back for
these) that are sprinkled about the shoppe for
infrastructure items. On the up side, I've not had to go
digging for anything in the last three years.


6. Screwed a few 1X3s to the ceiling joists. Great for storing planes,
pipe clamps, etc..


Similar but different, we have 3" diameter cardboard tubes
left over from our plotter at work. Some of these have
ended up in between the joists for holding "better
rippings", dowels and anything else that's long and skinny.


Ok, it's more than three but, as you all know, there are three kinds
of people, those who can count and those who can't.


The math works for me.

UA100

--
---

BRuce

On 06 Feb 2004 04:38:59 GMT, (Rich Stern) wrote:

What are your best three easy imrpovements?

1) More lighting. Including lolw-voltage halogens over work areas.

2) Painted the concrete floor to keep dust down. Painted the walls
flat white at the same time.

3) Cabinets with doors. Can't believe the amount of dust I was
always chasing off tools and supplies.

Ongoing project that looks liek a good bet:

Getting *everything* off the floor. Wall mount as much as possible,
no storage on the floor under shelves or benches. I want at least a
foot of clearance above the floor wall to wall, the ease of cleaning
up makes it worth the lost space.

Jeff

The number 1 best thing I ever did for my shop was to buy ($90) a 96
drawer card file catalog from a university. Unbelievably useful and
handy. Can put bolts/screws in drawes per size;blades for hand
plane/planer/jointer/hand jointer in drawers per tool, etc.



On Sun, 08 Feb 2004 01:36:20 GMT, "Rob V" wrote:

Now thats a drive by gloat if I ever heard one!

great read!

Thanks
_Rob
"charlie b" wrote in message
...
This is initially going to sound crazy but here goes.

Grade school kids
brooms
"huge vacuum cleaner" (their term for "dust collector").

Now the words - kids, cleaning, dusting - and the phrase
"tidying" up don't normally go together - when they're
at home. But in a SHOP...

Maybe it's ALL THAT POWER - dust collector's muted roar,
the sound of a large volume of air being sucked into
a four inch hose, the way things magically disappear
as the end of the hose approaches them or the sound of
small pieces of all sorts of things rattling their way
through the pipes on their way to who knows where.

All of my "stationary" tools are on wheels and normally
reside against a wall. They get pulled out when used
and push back when done - leaving wood residue behind
them. Out of sight, out of mind. But, after a kid, or
a team of kids have sucked everything that they can
reach into that four inch hose, they start looking
UNDER and BEHIND things.

In BIG VACUUM CLEANER mode, kids become prospectors
searching for the Mother Load. Discovering all the
sawdust that collects under a cabinet saw is a cause
for squeeling rejoicing. That will prompt a search
through my "sticks and dowel" storage tubes for an
arm extender to get to the otherwise inaccessible
sawdust. And like gold miners, they'll stick with
"the gold vein" until it's all gone.

When they discover more "treasures" behind the tools
on wheels they'll hound you until you move them out
of the way so they can continue their prospecting.

After finding and taking care of everything the dust
collector can handle, they find brooms and start
sweeping small to medium cut offs into two or three
piles - to be gone through for later "glue stuff
together, use your imagination, sculpture/projects"
The rejects go in a scrap box for kindling and "the
good stuff" goes into each one's large zip lock
stash bag.

When "the room full of heavy stuff that generates
sawdust" has been picked clean they move on to the
"quiet gluing and bug spitting room" (bug spit to
them is shellac to the rest of us - but bug spit
sounds cooler). Here they can't use the HUGE
VACUUM CLEANER - they know curlies will clog it
up (earlier learning experience) - so it's brooms
and brushes. The interesting curlies get saved
for a future creative project and the rest get
stuffed in a "fireplace fire starter stuff" bag.
All those little pieces that dovetails and tenons
create are each examined carefully for some
wonderful use, the rejects going in a kindling
box.

As a bonus for me, they also find every nut, bolt,
screw and anything else I'd dropped and couldn't
find. Those go in the "stuff that was found and
will be sorted out and put away later" can. One
of these discoveries will prompt a "what's this
and what's it for" question and one of my "too
much information" lectures. I've learned to pay
attention, so when their eyes start to glaze over
I let them get back to The Hunt.

In less than an hour the cleaning tornado moves
on, other games to play. I'm left with a nice
clean shop (it's still cluttered but relatively
clean) bags of kids project parts, a bag
of fire lighting curlies and a box of kindling.
I'm also exhausted and inspired.

Exhausted because I've had to mediate at least a
dozen "he got to vacuum for 10 minutes and I only
got to vacuum for a minute", "I found that first
and she took it", "why can't I use the push broom
this time?", "she says this is from a pin socket
and I say it's from a tail socket" disputes.

Exhausted because I've had to watch them like
a hawk to keep them from bumping their heads
while crawling under power equiptment searching
for treasure, trying to move a wheeled cart
supporting a disk and spindle sander away from
the wall to get to who knows what behind it ...

The inspiration comes from listening to all
the wonderful ideas they have for a piece of
scrap they found and saved.

Inspired because they got me to look for useful
stuff in what would otherwise be "just scrap".

For those who'e had their teeth on edge, worrying
about kids in the shop:

The sharp handtools are in wall hanging tool
cabinets behind a SCMS station and are out of
reach of kids and, with the doors closed - out
site, out of mind.

All power tools are unplugged, and those that can
be "locked down" are locked down BEFORE the human
tornadoes get started.

I've got one of those powerful magnates on a stick
things and use it when emptying the cyclone garbage
can - finding the iron bearing parts that shouldn't
have been vacuumed up in the first place.

To date there's been only one injury. While
crawling around under the sliding table of my
combination machine (a Robland X31 for the curious)
looking for more sawdust to vacuum up, and despite
my repeated "watch your head" warnings, one girl
tried to get up while under the sliding table and
dinged her eyebrow.

That prompted a "que tip and peroxide - neopsorene
- big gauze eyepatch with four big pieces of tape to
hold it in place - just for dramatic effect - medical
emergency production with an audience enjoying every
act of the three act drama, The star of this production,
with her "eye make up" was in all her glory, basking in
the attention of her fans - "Does it really hurt
bad?" - "You gonna have to get stitches?" - "Think
you'll lose your eye?"

Of course the tape and the gauze came off before she
went home and her "gaping wound" lost some of it's
shock value - a shiny neosporened eyebrow just isn't
all that noteworthy.

Maybe, in addition to eye protection, ear muffs rubber
gloves and safety glasses, I should add a helmet or
two.

Nothing to buy, no slick jig or fixture, no new use
for an existing tool- a single, free in terms of
dollars, shop improvement. Clean shop and another
one of those priceless experiences.

charlie b

Edwin Pawlowski wrote:

Mark and Kim Smith wrote:


As for "L" copper, sounds like it has the proper rating so it'll work
just fine. Same way to assemble?? By soldering joints, etc?



Many indusrial applications are being done with copper. One advantave oer
pipe is ease of change. Want to add another branch? With pipe, you may
have to break 10 joints from the new spot to the nearest union. With
copper, you just cut and put in a "T" where needed. --
Ed

http://pages.cthome.net/edhome



Sounds like the way to go these days!!

Rich Stern wrote:

What are your best three easy imrpovements?

Just one. Getting the rest of the family to call it "the shop" instead of
"the garage" ie, the place to toss everything that isn't wanted somewhere
else. g "The shop" is just a one car garage and I've grudgingly allowed
a treadmill, freezer and stepper to also occupy the space. ANYTHING else
not related to shop work is assumed to have been misplaced in the shop
instead of the trashcan.

I had to be pretty ruthless. Boxes of useful stuff, roller blades, etc.
went in the trash & were hauled away. ;-)

But then, I've been to any number of US Army "charm schools." Why not put
to use what I've learned? g

-- Mark

On Sun, 08 Feb 2004 13:37:44 -0600, Lawrence A. Ramsey
wrote:

The number 1 best thing I ever did for my shop was to buy ($90) a 96
drawer card file catalog from a university. Unbelievably useful and
handy. Can put bolts/screws in drawes per size;blades for hand
plane/planer/jointer/hand jointer in drawers per tool, etc.

Those things really are handy. I check the local used office
furniture warehouse on a regular basis for something similar. One
day, I'll have one too!

Barry

On Sun, 08 Feb 2004 12:27:57 GMT, B a r r y B u r k e J r . wrote:

On Sun, 08 Feb 2004 06:42:08 GMT, Bay Area Dave wrote:

wood is the preferred floor for several reasons:

1. drop a chisel, tip down,

Do they ever land any other way? G

If you wrap a piece of buttered toast around the handle, butter
pointing outwards, then it will land on the handle

--

Frank

http://www.freebsd.org/

What are your best three easy imrpovements?

1. Getting all the bicycles and crap out of the shed, and making it
officially a "shop."

2. De-rusting at last (not exactly easy, but cheap) that old Morgan front
vise, then flattening my benchtop and grafting a flat hardwood top onto it,
then drilling a grid of dog holes.

I can't come up with a #3 because I bought a lathe for Christmas, and I've
been too busy covering every surface in my shop with ribbons of wood to use
or take care of any of the rest of it. It's a real mess, actually.
Turning blanks on my table saw, turning blanks on my workbench, scraps of
too-short wood all over the floor. Moved the belt sander onto a stand in
front of the workbench so it's close to the lathe... Used all my Scary
Sharp(tm) paper to sand spindles and bowls...

It was the best thing and the worst thing I've done in years.

--
Michael McIntyre ---- Silvan
Linux fanatic, and certified Geek; registered Linux user #243621
http://www.geocities.com/Paris/Rue/5407/

On Sun, 08 Feb 2004 15:29:23 GMT, Larry Jaques
wrote:

On Sun, 08 Feb 2004 03:36:56 GMT, Tim Carver
brought forth from the murky depths:

2) Mounted my outfeed table top on 28" drawer slides. The table is
28" deep,so when it's pushed in, it doesn't get in my way. When I
push it out, it extends out to 56" behind the saw (60" past the blade)
which is just long enough to handle 8' stock, and I can move it in and
out without even walking around to the back of the saw. After
suffering for years with temp supports and and later a large fixed
table that took too much room, I'm really happy with this solution.

Great! I've been trying to come up with something similar on wheels
for Dina and you found it for me. Do you have part of the sliding
section as a flat area with a stop to make it work? Slots in the
immovable part for the larger sled? Thanks for the ideas!

Larry, I used 2 54" pieces of 3/8" by 3" cold finish steel bar, bolted
to the sides of the saw, parallel to the miter slots, with the edge
dropped just slightly (.01") below the tablesaw surface.

You could do the same thing with wood, of course; 1x4 maple or 3/4" x
4" ply would be about right. These pieces are the sole support for
the top, so the area under the top behind the saw is totally free for
storage. The table top itself is 1.25" Fnnform with a .5" UHMW top
screwed to it. Te drawer slides are just screwed to the edges of the
Finnform. I made it a very tight fit on purpose, and I've never had
the table move as work slides over it, not that it would really matter
if it did, the support would be moving with the work, which would be
fine.

I have a cab saw, and I've never seen any indication of tipping when
the table is extended with material on it, but perhaps this wouldn't
work as well with a contractor saw. Just to be sure, I bolted my saw
down for safety. I certainly wouldn't let the total go much more
than 27" behind the saw without a leg to support it. There is no
reason really that you couldn't have a support leg on a caster if you
wanted, though. In my case, I want that space, I have a tool cabinet
under there.

The drawer slides are screwed to the insides of the bars, with the top
of the slides flush with the top of the bar (remember,.01 down from
the saw top). There are no stops, the table travel stops when the
drawer slides reach the end of their travel. Remember, that far edge
is 60" out from the back of the blade, long enough for 8' stock. If I
need more (e.g, if I'm ripping a 12 footer) I have to use a temporary
support.

One bar is bolted to the left side of the saw, the other is bolted to
the right side of the right wing (I happen not to be using a left
wing, because I have a sliding table).I bolted the left side bar to
the saw thru the holes where the left wing would normally attach. On
the right side, I drilled the right side of the wing in 3 places and
bolted the bar to the outside of the right wing.

The following detail is confusing, and it doesn't really have much to
do with the sliding table idea, but it does explain why I chose to
support the sliding table with steel instead of wood. Remember, I had
an extra wing. I used it behind the right wing. It is supported on
the right by the right steel bar, giving me an 8" by 54" right hand
side wing. This is why I chose steel for the support bar. Wood would
be fine for the support bars if you weren't doing this.

If anybody's interested in this, I'll post a pic. I've kind got a lot
of stuff going on here which complicates things, but the sliding
outfeed is really pretty easy and simple.






------------- -----------
T===========| | slider ||stop
S===========| | ||
------------- -----------


3) Replaced shelves under my bench with simple shallow
pullouts. This was so easy to do it isn't funny, and it improved the
cleanliness of my shop a ton, because I can now get a lot more stuff
neatly arranged on the pullouts than I ever could on the shelves.

In visualizing what you did, I decided that my smaller tailed tools
would benefit by being placed on a shallow sliding drawer under the
assembly table. I think I'll add one to the mechanics vise bench, too.
Now to find an Accuride set that slides both ways for the pair on
the assembly bench and devise a simple center detent to keep it in
place when I roll the bench around. A spring-loaded inline skate
wheel in a rounded V-groove ought to do the trick.
If you ever find such slides, please let me know! I want to add some
2 way drawers under the right side of my saw, to store panels under
construction.

-
The only reason I would take up exercising is || http://diversify.com
so that I could hear heavy breathing again. || Programmed Websites

Tim Carver

On Sun, 08 Feb 2004 04:06:18 GMT, "Rob V" wrote:

Tim,

Can you give more details and pics on #2?
Rob -
See my reply to Larry Jacques (I accidentally sent this post twice, so
it's a prior thread). . Also, I will post a pic on ABPW.


Also - where did you get that shroud you mentioned in #1?
I made it out of freezer curtain material. It's flexible vinyl, about
1/8" thick. It comes in 3' wide rolls. They sell it by the
foot at Multi-Craft plastics in Portland, I suspect any plastic
supplier would have it. I'll post a pic of this on ABPW too.


Thanks
-Rob

"Tim Carver" wrote in message
.. .
On 06 Feb 2004 04:38:59 GMT, (Rich Stern) wrote:

What are your best three easy imrpovements?

1) I tried for years to come up with an effective dust collection
solution for my SCMS. I've tried using a box behind the saw,
etcetera. Every solution either compromised the cuts the saw could
make, or didn't do a great job collecting the dust. Well,
I finally tried making a shroud out of that flexible plastic that's
used for freezer curtains. A couple of hours of fiddling around, and
Voila! It works! I now have a dust free miter station. It's a
flexible shroud that attaches to the saw and moves with it, and it
doesn't restrict any cut (extreme left miter+bevel, etc) that the saw
is capable of making. Very low effort for a large environmental
improvement, IMO.

2) Mounted my outfeed table top on 28" drawer slides. The table is
28" deep,so when it's pushed in, it doesn't get in my way. When I
push it out, it extends out to 56" behind the saw (60" past the blade)
which is just long enough to handle 8' stock, and I can move it in and
out without even walking around to the back of the saw. After
suffering for years with temp supports and and later a large fixed
table that took too much room, I'm really happy with this solution.

3) Replaced shelves under my bench with simple shallow
pullouts. This was so easy to do it isn't funny, and it improved the
cleanliness of my shop a ton, because I can now get a lot more stuff
neatly arranged on the pullouts than I ever could on the shelves.




Tim Carver



Tim Carver

On Sat, 07 Feb 2004 23:00:55 -0800, Luigi Zanasi
scribbled:

On 06 Feb 2004 04:38:59 GMT, (Rich Stern) scribbled:

What are your best three easy imrpovements?

snip of my previous six improvements

How could I forget improvement No. 7 (actually should be #1),
especially considering Silvan's vulgar hijacking of another thread to
the topic I am about to bring up.

1. A pee bucket. A plastic bucket filled with sawdust. I no longer
need to walk out to the garden beds (during the winter) or the compost
heap (during the summer). The stuff just gets dumped on the compost in
the spring: a good combination of nitrogen and carbon. No smell. Thank
you, Doug Stowe.

Luigi
Note the new email address.
Please adjust your krillfiles (tmAD) accordingly
Replace "nonet" with "yukonomics" for real email address

On Sun, 08 Feb 2004 15:29:23 GMT, Larry Jaques
wrote:


Great! I've been trying to come up with something similar on wheels
for Dina and you found it for me. Do you have part of the sliding
section as a flat area with a stop to make it work? Slots in the
immovable part for the larger sled? Thanks for the ideas!

I posted a couple of pics to ABPW.

Tim Carver

On Sun, 08 Feb 2004 04:06:18 GMT, "Rob V" wrote:

Tim,

Can you give more details and pics on #2?

I posted a couple of pics to ABPW.

Tim Carver

On Mon, 09 Feb 2004 02:42:47 GMT, Tim Carver
brought forth from the murky depths:

Larry, I used 2 54" pieces of 3/8" by 3" cold finish steel bar, bolted
to the sides of the saw, parallel to the miter slots, with the edge
dropped just slightly (.01") below the tablesaw surface.

You could do the same thing with wood, of course; 1x4 maple or 3/4" x
4" ply would be about right. These pieces are the sole support for
the top, so the area under the top behind the saw is totally free for
storage. The table top itself is 1.25" Fnnform with a .5" UHMW top
screwed to it. Te drawer slides are just screwed to the edges of the
Finnform. I made it a very tight fit on purpose, and I've never had
the table move as work slides over it, not that it would really matter
if it did, the support would be moving with the work, which would be
fine.

I have a cab saw, and I've never seen any indication of tipping when

Dina's a 1920's model on wheels and is a bit busty (top heavy).
I was planning on putting a caster on the bottom of the extension.
The existing table is made from waxed 1/2" Baltic birch ply and would
take a pair of glides on the bottom without any problem. Glued blocks
would handle the transition from wood to metal.


the table is extended with material on it, but perhaps this wouldn't
work as well with a contractor saw. Just to be sure, I bolted my saw
down for safety. I certainly wouldn't let the total go much more
than 27" behind the saw without a leg to support it. There is no
reason really that you couldn't have a support leg on a caster if you
wanted, though. In my case, I want that space, I have a tool cabinet
under there.

I was thinking a rolling sled storage slot might be handy there.
Thanks for the reply.


--
REMEMBER: First you pillage, then you burn.
---
http://diversify.com Full Service Website Development

Luigi Zanasi wrote:
1. A pee bucket. A plastic bucket filled with sawdust. I no longer
need to walk out to the garden beds (during the winter) or the compost
heap (during the summer). The stuff just gets dumped on the compost in
the spring: a good combination of nitrogen and carbon. No smell. Thank
you, Doug Stowe.


Can you explain this further? Can you post a picture on
abpw?

UA100

Larry Jaques wrote:
I was thinking a rolling sled storage slot might be handy there.


Ah yes. In my case, above the outfeed table, to the right
and against the wall. 13"ish deep, 42" high and 32" front
to back. Maybe some dividers to keep the larger sleds from
banging into each other.

Also, somewhere to park the saw fence when it's not
needed/being used. I'm thinking under the right hand
extension, 'tween the saw cabinet and cabinet under the saw
extension.

And then, a place to park/store blades.

And then, somewhere for the push stick/feeder blocks.

And then, some place for the zero tolerance inserts.

And then... Sheesh! We ain't even stepped away from the
saw table and I'm already at five.

UA100

I'll offer one.

http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.a...rency=2&S ID=

I picked up a 12' sho-vac hose + wands for my shopvac at Lee Valley. Now, I
don't have to drag my sho vac all over the shop to tidy up. From unther the
outfeed table (where my shopvac usually lives) I can just about reach
everything.

It's more narrow than a notmal shopvac hose, so it's more flexible, but
since it's designed with a smooth interior, it does not take much of a
suction hit.

I vac *much* more fequently, now that it's less fuss to get it done.

My only beef with this product is that it could really use a 20" extension
so that I don't have to bend over so much to get to the floor.

are you listening Robin?

-Steve

Sure - love to see a pic.


"Tim Carver" wrote in message
...
On Sun, 08 Feb 2004 15:29:23 GMT, Larry Jaques
wrote:

On Sun, 08 Feb 2004 03:36:56 GMT, Tim Carver
brought forth from the murky depths:

2) Mounted my outfeed table top on 28" drawer slides. The table is
28" deep,so when it's pushed in, it doesn't get in my way. When I
push it out, it extends out to 56" behind the saw (60" past the blade)
which is just long enough to handle 8' stock, and I can move it in and
out without even walking around to the back of the saw. After
suffering for years with temp supports and and later a large fixed
table that took too much room, I'm really happy with this solution.

Great! I've been trying to come up with something similar on wheels
for Dina and you found it for me. Do you have part of the sliding
section as a flat area with a stop to make it work? Slots in the
immovable part for the larger sled? Thanks for the ideas!

Larry, I used 2 54" pieces of 3/8" by 3" cold finish steel bar, bolted
to the sides of the saw, parallel to the miter slots, with the edge
dropped just slightly (.01") below the tablesaw surface.

You could do the same thing with wood, of course; 1x4 maple or 3/4" x
4" ply would be about right. These pieces are the sole support for
the top, so the area under the top behind the saw is totally free for
storage. The table top itself is 1.25" Fnnform with a .5" UHMW top
screwed to it. Te drawer slides are just screwed to the edges of the
Finnform. I made it a very tight fit on purpose, and I've never had
the table move as work slides over it, not that it would really matter
if it did, the support would be moving with the work, which would be
fine.

I have a cab saw, and I've never seen any indication of tipping when
the table is extended with material on it, but perhaps this wouldn't
work as well with a contractor saw. Just to be sure, I bolted my saw
down for safety. I certainly wouldn't let the total go much more
than 27" behind the saw without a leg to support it. There is no
reason really that you couldn't have a support leg on a caster if you
wanted, though. In my case, I want that space, I have a tool cabinet
under there.

The drawer slides are screwed to the insides of the bars, with the top
of the slides flush with the top of the bar (remember,.01 down from
the saw top). There are no stops, the table travel stops when the
drawer slides reach the end of their travel. Remember, that far edge
is 60" out from the back of the blade, long enough for 8' stock. If I
need more (e.g, if I'm ripping a 12 footer) I have to use a temporary
support.

One bar is bolted to the left side of the saw, the other is bolted to
the right side of the right wing (I happen not to be using a left
wing, because I have a sliding table).I bolted the left side bar to
the saw thru the holes where the left wing would normally attach. On
the right side, I drilled the right side of the wing in 3 places and
bolted the bar to the outside of the right wing.

The following detail is confusing, and it doesn't really have much to
do with the sliding table idea, but it does explain why I chose to
support the sliding table with steel instead of wood. Remember, I had
an extra wing. I used it behind the right wing. It is supported on
the right by the right steel bar, giving me an 8" by 54" right hand
side wing. This is why I chose steel for the support bar. Wood would
be fine for the support bars if you weren't doing this.

If anybody's interested in this, I'll post a pic. I've kind got a lot
of stuff going on here which complicates things, but the sliding
outfeed is really pretty easy and simple.






------------- -----------
T===========| | slider ||stop
S===========| | ||
------------- -----------


3) Replaced shelves under my bench with simple shallow
pullouts. This was so easy to do it isn't funny, and it improved the
cleanliness of my shop a ton, because I can now get a lot more stuff
neatly arranged on the pullouts than I ever could on the shelves.

In visualizing what you did, I decided that my smaller tailed tools
would benefit by being placed on a shallow sliding drawer under the
assembly table. I think I'll add one to the mechanics vise bench, too.
Now to find an Accuride set that slides both ways for the pair on
the assembly bench and devise a simple center detent to keep it in
place when I roll the bench around. A spring-loaded inline skate
wheel in a rounded V-groove ought to do the trick.
If you ever find such slides, please let me know! I want to add some
2 way drawers under the right side of my saw, to store panels under
construction.

-
The only reason I would take up exercising is || http://diversify.com
so that I could hear heavy breathing again. || Programmed Websites

Tim Carver

On Mon, 09 Feb 2004 10:11:53 GMT, Unisaw A100
wrote:

Luigi Zanasi wrote:
1. A pee bucket. A plastic bucket filled with sawdust. I no longer
need to walk out to the garden beds (during the winter) or the compost
heap (during the summer). The stuff just gets dumped on the compost in
the spring: a good combination of nitrogen and carbon. No smell. Thank
you, Doug Stowe.


Can you explain this further? Can you post a picture on
abpw?

UA100






NOOOOOO......

Since when is urine good for compost and/or vegetation?


"Bridger" wrote in message
...
On Mon, 09 Feb 2004 10:11:53 GMT, Unisaw A100
wrote:

Luigi Zanasi wrote:
1. A pee bucket. A plastic bucket filled with sawdust. I no longer
need to walk out to the garden beds (during the winter) or the compost
heap (during the summer). The stuff just gets dumped on the compost in
the spring: a good combination of nitrogen and carbon. No smell. Thank
you, Doug Stowe.


Can you explain this further? Can you post a picture on
abpw?

UA100






NOOOOOO......

On Mon, 09 Feb 2004 15:34:43 GMT, "Bill"
wrote:

Since when is urine good for compost and/or vegetation?


since the beginning.

there is such a thing as too much, of course, but that's quite a bit.








Luigi Zanasi wrote:
1. A pee bucket. A plastic bucket filled with sawdust. I no longer
need to walk out to the garden beds (during the winter) or the compost
heap (during the summer). The stuff just gets dumped on the compost in
the spring: a good combination of nitrogen and carbon. No smell. Thank
you, Doug Stowe.

On Sun, 08 Feb 2004 15:29:23 GMT, Larry Jaques
wrote:

Now to find an Accuride set that slides both ways for the pair on
the assembly bench and devise a simple center detent to keep it in
place when I roll the bench around. A spring-loaded inline skate
wheel in a rounded V-groove ought to do the trick.

Larry -

Couldn't you just use 2 sets of box slides for this? One pair would
be attached to the pullout. The outer pair would pull out from the
opposite side; when you pull out from that side, the inner pair and
the pullout would move as a unit. You would have full extension in
both directions, and I think there would be a pretty good detent in
the center position, since the standard accuride slides have detents
to help keep them closed. You would have to drill the slide
component of the outer pair to match the mounting holes in the box of
the inner pair. And you would need to keep the profile of the
fasteners that attach the box of the inner pair to the slide of the
outer pair to a minimum - pop rivets would probably work nicely. Or
you could use 1/4" masonite or something similar
as an adapter between the outer and inner pairs if you want to avoid
drilling and riveting the slides.

If you do know of a slide actually designed to open both ways, please
let me know, as this solution obviously has some drawbacks (cost,
double slide thickness, reduced load capacity).


Tim Carver

On Mon, 09 Feb 2004 10:17:43 GMT, Unisaw A100
brought forth from the murky depths:

Larry Jaques wrote:
I was thinking a rolling sled storage slot might be handy there.


Ah yes. In my case, above the outfeed table, to the right
and against the wall. 13"ish deep, 42" high and 32" front
to back. Maybe some dividers to keep the larger sleds from
banging into each other.

Also, somewhere to park the saw fence when it's not
needed/being used. I'm thinking under the right hand
extension, 'tween the saw cabinet and cabinet under the saw
extension.

And then, a place to park/store blades.

You have more than one blade?


And then, somewhere for the push stick/feeder blocks.

I have one peg for the blade wrench/earmuffs and a couple
of brass eyelets hanging from the right extension table
but I think a drawer will be more handy some day. It could
handle height and angle gauges, too.


And then, some place for the zero tolerance inserts.

Or Dina's cast-arn 3/8-inch-gaper insert.


And then... Sheesh! We ain't even stepped away from the
saw table and I'm already at five.

Never ending, wot?


--
REMEMBER: First you pillage, then you burn.
---
http://diversify.com Full Service Website Development

On Mon, 09 Feb 2004 10:11:53 GMT, Unisaw A100
brought forth from the murky depths:

Luigi Zanasi wrote:
1. A pee bucket. A plastic bucket filled with sawdust. I no longer
need to walk out to the garden beds (during the winter) or the compost
heap (during the summer). The stuff just gets dumped on the compost in
the spring: a good combination of nitrogen and carbon. No smell. Thank
you, Doug Stowe.

Can you explain this further? Can you post a picture on
abpw?

Maybe he could send you a couple bites so you could smell
and taste it, too? (You midwesterners are a strange lot.)


--
REMEMBER: First you pillage, then you burn.
---
http://diversify.com Full Service Website Development

What are your best three easy imrpovements?

I put these in order of how much they added to my enjoyment of using my shop.

1. Proper bench.

2. Proper lighting/electrical work.

3. Acquiring adequate space.


David

This is one of the things I like most about this group. So much
valuable information for us newbies! **** in a bucket and my
woodworking improves. Awesome! lol What's next, drinking beer while
using the table saw?


Luigi Zanasi wrote in message . ..
On Sat, 07 Feb 2004 23:00:55 -0800, Luigi Zanasi
scribbled:

On 06 Feb 2004 04:38:59 GMT, (Rich Stern) scribbled:

What are your best three easy imrpovements?

snip of my previous six improvements

How could I forget improvement No. 7 (actually should be #1),
especially considering Silvan's vulgar hijacking of another thread to
the topic I am about to bring up.

1. A pee bucket. A plastic bucket filled with sawdust. I no longer
need to walk out to the garden beds (during the winter) or the compost
heap (during the summer). The stuff just gets dumped on the compost in
the spring: a good combination of nitrogen and carbon. No smell. Thank
you, Doug Stowe.

Luigi
Note the new email address.
Please adjust your krillfiles (tmAD) accordingly
Replace "nonet" with "yukonomics" for real email address

On Mon, 09 Feb 2004 10:11:53 GMT, Unisaw A100
scribbled:

Luigi Zanasi wrote:
1. A pee bucket. A plastic bucket filled with sawdust. I no longer
need to walk out to the garden beds (during the winter) or the compost
heap (during the summer). The stuff just gets dumped on the compost in
the spring: a good combination of nitrogen and carbon. No smell. Thank
you, Doug Stowe.


Can you explain this further? Can you post a picture on
abpw?

Can't post the pitcher 'cause I ain't got one, and I ain't got a
digital camera, and it would take too long to take a pitcher, get it
developed, scan it and post it. But hopefully, verbal instructions
will suffice.

1. First, you need to find a bucket. Best are the taller 23-litre (6
gallons Keith, 5 gallons Jeff) plastic ones, but the 19 or 16 litre
ones also work in a pinch. The tall ones can be found in any Italian
grocery store in September or at your local home-brewing shop.

2. Take the lid off the bucket. This is by no means obvious or easy.
Those lids are stuck on permanently. Your best bet is to use a
retractable Olfa knife with a fresh blade to cut open the top. But be
careful not to let the knife slip or you might cut a gash in your
thigh (not to speak of other parts of your anatomy close to your
thigh), and end up having to go to the hospital to get stitched up.
DAMHIKT. You may then use the knife to hijack a plane.

3. Follow the instructions on the 23-litre pail. i.e. transfer the
grape juice to a fermenter and add yeast. After it has stopped
fermenting, rack off the young wine into a carboy and add sulfite. You
may continue with the winemaking process in other containers, but the
bucket is now ready to use.

4. If you're tall and don't have a home brew shop or an Italian
grocery store nearby, you might consider first investing in penis
enlargement pills to improve your aim to the shorter buckets. Penis
enlargement pills are available everywhere on the internet. Coming to
think of it, they would be useful even with the taller buckets, unless
you're really short.

5. If you don't have an Italian grocery store or U-Brew near you, you
could go to your local airstrip and talk to the bush plane mechanics.
They get their lubricating oil in 19-litre (5 gallons, Keith) pails.
Once you have the bucket, you will need to dump the remaining oil down
the sewer and thoroughly wash the pail with detergent and TSP.

6. Put in a bit of dirt or compost at the bottom of the pail.

7. Get a shovel or dust pan, go under your table saw and fill the pail
with sawdust. Do not use cedar, walnut, redwood or any tropical
hardwood sawdust. Those are bad for your plants and don't compost very
well. Maple, birch & poplar are best. Oak & resinous conifers are OK.

8. When the urge takes you, step to the bucket, take careful aim and
let go.

9. You may use a stick to mix the compost every once in while.

10. Use the wine you made in #4 as salad dressing. Or get your SO to
put it in fancy bottles and add herbs and sell it at the craft fair
alongside your pukey ducks. Do not put the wine in the compost, the
acetic acid had a deleterious effect.

11. Every once in while, when you've accumulated enough sawdust under
your table saw to fill up a bucket, empty the pee bucket in the
compost and go back to #6.

Luigi
Replace "nonet" with "yukonomics" for real email address

On Mon, 09 Feb 2004 15:34:43 GMT, "Bill"
scribbled:

Since when is urine good for compost and/or vegetation?

Since forever. It's one of things that make horse manure a good
fertiliser. According to an article in a Canadian gardening magazine a
few years back, urine is actually a 10-1-1 fertiliser very high in
nitrogen. Like other fertilisers, undiluted, it will "burn" plants,
but diluted 10 to one, it works very well. East Asian farmers have
been using human wastes as fertiliser for thousands of years.

In a compost bin, an important consideration is the ratio of nitrogen
to carbon. If you use sawdust in your compost, you need to add a high
nitrogen component like urine or grass clippings, otherwise it will
take forever to rot.

Luigi
Replace "nonet" with "yukonomics" for real email address

On 9 Feb 2004 12:09:39 -0800, (Chip) scribbled:

This is one of the things I like most about this group. So much
valuable information for us newbies! **** in a bucket and my
woodworking improves. Awesome! lol What's next, drinking beer while
using the table saw?

By peeing in a bucket, you end up spending more time in the shop and
less time walking to and fro to your usual urine depository, not to
speak of more time walking to and fro trying to decide whether you can
hold it in a while longer, more time in the shop means you spend more
time learning and thereby improve your wooddorking . What's so hard to
unnerstand?

Luigi
Replace "nonet" with "yukonomics" for real email address

On Mon, 09 Feb 2004 16:33:13 GMT, Tim Carver
brought forth from the murky depths:

On Sun, 08 Feb 2004 15:29:23 GMT, Larry Jaques
wrote:

Now to find an Accuride set that slides both ways for the pair on
the assembly bench and devise a simple center detent to keep it in
place when I roll the bench around. A spring-loaded inline skate
wheel in a rounded V-groove ought to do the trick.

Larry -

Couldn't you just use 2 sets of box slides for this? One pair would
be attached to the pullout. The outer pair would pull out from the
opposite side; when you pull out from that side, the inner pair and
the pullout would move as a unit. You would have full extension in

Yeah, mounting pairs to both sides of floating 1x3s might
work just fine.


both directions, and I think there would be a pretty good detent in
the center position, since the standard accuride slides have detents
to help keep them closed. You would have to drill the slide

Hmm, you might be right and the standard self-closing detents
might be enough by themselves.


--snip--
If you do know of a slide actually designed to open both ways, please
let me know, as this solution obviously has some drawbacks (cost,
double slide thickness, reduced load capacity).

Don't forget extra weight and complexity.

I asked Accuride's website form for more info and the rep just
overnighted (!) a catalog to me. I'll check it out more once
my neck gets better. ('Twas Chiro time today after something
went wrong on Saturday when stretching to pick up a measly
one gallon paint bucket. Go figure.)


--
Impeach 'em ALL!
----------------------------------------------------
http://diversify.com Website Application Programming

In article , UnisawA100
@wi.rr.com says...
Luigi Zanasi wrote:
1. A pee bucket. A plastic bucket filled with sawdust. I no longer
need to walk out to the garden beds (during the winter) or the compost
heap (during the summer). The stuff just gets dumped on the compost in
the spring: a good combination of nitrogen and carbon. No smell. Thank
you, Doug Stowe.


Can you explain this further? Can you post a picture on
abpw?


Please don't. Keeter, what are you thinkin'? :-)



UA100

On Sun, 08 Feb 2004 20:03:28 -0800, Luigi Zanasi
wrote:

On 06 Feb 2004 04:38:59 GMT, (Rich Stern) scribbled:

What are your best three easy imrpovements?

1. A pee bucket. A plastic bucket filled with sawdust.

Tagging on here, as RS's original is gone...

French Cleats around the entire perimeter of the shop at 6' off the
floor.

I'm a bit suprised that no one else has mentioned these, but maybe I'm
just less definite about where I want things when I originally hang
'em. ; Installing french cleats around the shop, ("studio"ackshully,
since 12X16's too small to be a "shop."), has been one of the best
things I've done for myself.

1.) Find the PERFECT! place to hang something.
2.) Cleat it 'n' hang it.
3.) Decide, (usually within a day or two), that the original
spot was a STUPID place to hang it.
4.) Lift it off cleat and move it in 10 seconds or less.

I forget where I read about 'em, but they've been the biggest bang for
the buck in the entire sh-- "studio."

Michael