On Mon, 09 Feb 2004 02:42:47 GMT, Tim Carver
brought forth from the murky depths:

Larry, I used 2 54" pieces of 3/8" by 3" cold finish steel bar, bolted
to the sides of the saw, parallel to the miter slots, with the edge
dropped just slightly (.01") below the tablesaw surface.

You could do the same thing with wood, of course; 1x4 maple or 3/4" x
4" ply would be about right. These pieces are the sole support for
the top, so the area under the top behind the saw is totally free for
storage. The table top itself is 1.25" Fnnform with a .5" UHMW top
screwed to it. Te drawer slides are just screwed to the edges of the
Finnform. I made it a very tight fit on purpose, and I've never had
the table move as work slides over it, not that it would really matter
if it did, the support would be moving with the work, which would be
fine.

I have a cab saw, and I've never seen any indication of tipping when

Dina's a 1920's model on wheels and is a bit busty (top heavy).
I was planning on putting a caster on the bottom of the extension.
The existing table is made from waxed 1/2" Baltic birch ply and would
take a pair of glides on the bottom without any problem. Glued blocks
would handle the transition from wood to metal.


the table is extended with material on it, but perhaps this wouldn't
work as well with a contractor saw. Just to be sure, I bolted my saw
down for safety. I certainly wouldn't let the total go much more
than 27" behind the saw without a leg to support it. There is no
reason really that you couldn't have a support leg on a caster if you
wanted, though. In my case, I want that space, I have a tool cabinet
under there.

I was thinking a rolling sled storage slot might be handy there.
Thanks for the reply.


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