I have an older Craftsman table saw and I want to make some zero clearance table inserts out of some 1/4" MDF. The problem I have is that the top of the 10" blade is almost even with the top of the table. How does one get to install the insert without killing himself?

"silver_18038" wrote in message

I have an older Craftsman table saw and I want to make some zero
clearance table inserts out of some 1/4" MDF. The problem I have is
that the top of the 10" blade is almost even with the top of the table.
How does one get to install the insert without killing himself?

Got an 8" dado stack? If so, use one of the 8" blades, not a chipper, to
make the initial cut.

You can also route out enough clearance for the 10" blade with a router if
need be.

--
www.e-woodshop.net
Last update: 6/1/07
KarlC@ (the obvious)

In article , "Swingman" wrote:
"silver_18038" wrote in message

I have an older Craftsman table saw and I want to make some zero
clearance table inserts out of some 1/4" MDF. The problem I have is
that the top of the 10" blade is almost even with the top of the table.
How does one get to install the insert without killing himself?

Got an 8" dado stack? If so, use one of the 8" blades, not a chipper, to
make the initial cut.

If you don't have an 8" dado set, a 7-1/4" circular-saw blade would do the job
as well.

You can also route out enough clearance for the 10" blade with a router if
need be.

That's really the easiest, especially if you have a router table.

--
Regards,
Doug Miller (alphageek at milmac dot com)

It's time to throw all their damned tea in the harbor again.

On Thu, 12 Jul 2007 21:36:58 +0100, silver_18038 wrote:


I have an older Craftsman table saw and I want to make some zero
clearance table inserts out of some 1/4" MDF. The problem I have is
that the top of the 10" blade is almost even with the top of the table.
How does one get to install the insert without killing himself?


I too have an older Craftsman TS. What I did to cut the zero clearance
inserts was to install a 8" blade on the saw, then raise it to cut the
slot. I then re-installed the 10" blade and finished the cut.
Hope this helps.

Paul T.


http://www.USENETHOST.com 100% Uncensored , 100% Anonymous, 5$/month Only!

(Doug Miller) wrote in
:

In article , "Swingman"
wrote:
"silver_18038" wrote in message

I have an older Craftsman table saw and I want to make some zero
clearance table inserts out of some 1/4" MDF. The problem I have is
that the top of the 10" blade is almost even with the top of the
table. How does one get to install the insert without killing
himself?

Got an 8" dado stack? If so, use one of the 8" blades, not a chipper,
to make the initial cut.

If you don't have an 8" dado set, a 7-1/4" circular-saw blade would do
the job as well.

snip

Well, maybe two, installed side by side. They really are narrow kerf...

Patriarch

"silver_18038" wrote in message
...

I have an older Craftsman table saw and I want to make some zero
clearance table inserts out of some 1/4" MDF. The problem I have is
that the top of the 10" blade is almost even with the top of the table.
How does one get to install the insert without killing himself?




--
silver_18038
Perhaps it wasn't a 10" saw when it left the store. They sold quite a few
9" saws as well.

I don't know how old my Craftsman is, but it does have a repulsion induction
motor which was
discontinued in 1953. I mention this fact because there is ample room
between the top of a
10" blade and the saw table.

And, my saw will only accept a 1/8" insert.

Jim

In article , Patriarch wrote:
(Doug Miller) wrote in
:

In article , "Swingman"
wrote:
"silver_18038" wrote in message

I have an older Craftsman table saw and I want to make some zero
clearance table inserts out of some 1/4" MDF. The problem I have is
that the top of the 10" blade is almost even with the top of the
table. How does one get to install the insert without killing
himself?

Got an 8" dado stack? If so, use one of the 8" blades, not a chipper,
to make the initial cut.

If you don't have an 8" dado set, a 7-1/4" circular-saw blade would do
the job as well.

snip

Well, maybe two, installed side by side. They really are narrow kerf...

Depends on the blade...

--
Regards,
Doug Miller (alphageek at milmac dot com)

It's time to throw all their damned tea in the harbor again.

On Thu, 12 Jul 2007 21:36:58 +0100, silver_18038
wrote:


I have an older Craftsman table saw and I want to make some zero
clearance table inserts out of some 1/4" MDF. The problem I have is
that the top of the 10" blade is almost even with the top of the table.
How does one get to install the insert without killing himself?

I'd check out what you can BUY, first..

I just bought 2 for my Ridgid/Craftsman TS for about $20 or $25 each from Lee
Valley...
Ok, they lied to me about them fitting my say, but I got them to work.. *g*

Even if you make your own, check out the pictures of the factory made ones..
For one thing, you'll notice that they come as "left or right" cut...
Why? They have the slot started for you, so that you can install it over the
lowered blade and then raise the blade...



mac

Please remove splinters before emailing

mac davis wrote:
I'd check out what you can BUY, first..

I just bought 2 for my Ridgid/Craftsman TS for about $20 or $25 each from Lee
Valley...
Ok, they lied to me about them fitting my say, but I got them to work.. *g*

I'll bet I can crank out 10-12 of them in the amount of time it took to
get yours to work! G

http://www.bburke.com/images/545_zci_w_splitter.jpg

The first one takes all the time, the rest of the stack takes just a few
minutes. I've got 'em made for common bevel cuts, different dado
widths, etc... Some even have glued-in splitters.

Weird plate thickness? Rout a rabbet all the way around the bottom
edge, to set the insert slightly below the surface, and bring it back up
with leveling set screws.

As Swingman said, use a single dado end blade to make the initial cut,
if necessary. They're not furniture, no need to get fancy, just whip
'em out.

"silver_18038" wrote in message
...

I have an older Craftsman table saw and I want to make some zero
clearance table inserts out of some 1/4" MDF. The problem I have is
that the top of the 10" blade is almost even with the top of the table.
How does one get to install the insert without killing himself?

Some table saw book I read had this procedure.

1. Carpet tape the new insert to the old, carefully aligning.
2. Put the old insert in the table saw. The new will be "standing proud."
3. Clamp a 2x4 over the inserts, covering them completely.
4. Start the saw and slowly raise the blade. This makes the initial cut on
the new insert.

-- Mark

Doug Miller wrote:
In article , Patriarch wrote:
(Doug Miller) wrote in
:

In article , "Swingman"
wrote:
"silver_18038" wrote in message
I have an older Craftsman table saw and I want to make some zero
clearance table inserts out of some 1/4" MDF. The problem I have is
that the top of the 10" blade is almost even with the top of the
table. How does one get to install the insert without killing
himself?
Got an 8" dado stack? If so, use one of the 8" blades, not a chipper,
to make the initial cut.
If you don't have an 8" dado set, a 7-1/4" circular-saw blade would do
the job as well.
snip

Well, maybe two, installed side by side. They really are narrow kerf...

Depends on the blade...

Damn few (any?) will have large enough arbor hole to get on the tablesaw
shaft, though...

--

In article ,
silver_18038 wrote:

I have an older Craftsman table saw and I want to make some zero
clearance table inserts out of some 1/4" MDF. The problem I have is
that the top of the 10" blade is almost even with the top of the table.
How does one get to install the insert without killing himself?




--
silver_18038

Here's what I do: Put the stock insert in the saw; Lift up one end so it
is slightly raised above the table. Bring the fence over til it just touches
the raised insert. Lock the fence in this position. Raise the operator
end of the stock insert slightly above the table, and clamp a block of
wood to the fence that is just touching the front of the insert.
Drop the insert into place. Put the new ZCI on top of the stock insert,
with it's front end touching the block of wood. Clamp a second block
to the fence on top of the ZCI. Hold the ZCI in place with a push block,
start the saw, raise the blade, & cut the slot.


--
Make it as simple as possible, but no simpler.

Larry Wasserman - Baltimore Maryland - lwasserm(a)sdf. lonestar. org

On Fri, 13 Jul 2007 18:00:18 GMT, B A R R Y wrote:

mac davis wrote:
I'd check out what you can BUY, first..

I just bought 2 for my Ridgid/Craftsman TS for about $20 or $25 each from Lee
Valley...
Ok, they lied to me about them fitting my say, but I got them to work.. *g*

I'll bet I can crank out 10-12 of them in the amount of time it took to
get yours to work! G

http://www.bburke.com/images/545_zci_w_splitter.jpg

The first one takes all the time, the rest of the stack takes just a few
minutes. I've got 'em made for common bevel cuts, different dado
widths, etc... Some even have glued-in splitters.

Weird plate thickness? Rout a rabbet all the way around the bottom
edge, to set the insert slightly below the surface, and bring it back up
with leveling set screws.

As Swingman said, use a single dado end blade to make the initial cut,
if necessary. They're not furniture, no need to get fancy, just whip
'em out.

You probably could, Barry... because you're done them before and know what
you're doing... You probably have a source for hi-tech slippy-slidy material for
it near you..

I wanted it NOW for a new TS and didn't want to design and make one with
whatever materials I found lying out in the desert...
I'm learning the TS to improve my turning... I really don't want to take time
off from turning to reinvent the wheel to save a few bucks..

I needed 2.. zero tolerance, which I could probably live without, and dado,
which I figured might save a finger someday...
If I ever need one for a bevel cut, after I learn what that is and if I have a
need for it, I'll decide to build one..

Though I also love building jigs and stuff, I'm not interested enough in the saw
to build one to save $40...





mac

Please remove splinters before emailing

"silver_18038" wrote in message
I have an older Craftsman table saw and I want to make some zero
clearance table inserts out of some 1/4" MDF. The problem I have is
that the top of the 10" blade is almost even with the top of the table.
How does one get to install the insert without killing himself?

Buy a cheap 8" blade to make an initial cut and if necessary, with the 10"
blade installed but not turning, hand cut some width of the initial cut to
allow the top of the 10" blade to protrude. Then it's only a matter of
turning the saw on and completing the cut.

On Fri, 13 Jul 2007 18:33:05 -0700, mac davis
wrote:

You probably could, Barry... because you're done them before and know what
you're doing... You probably have a source for hi-tech slippy-slidy material for
it near you..

What material? My inserts are waxed plywood.

---------------------------------------------
** http://www.bburke.com/woodworking.html **
---------------------------------------------

On Fri, 13 Jul 2007 18:33:05 -0700, mac davis
wrote:


Though I also love building jigs and stuff, I'm not interested enough in the saw
to build one to save $40...

Understood.

I just wanted to make the point about duplication for the lurkers.
NEVER make ONE of a cheap, useful item while the stuff is set up. G

---------------------------------------------
** http://www.bburke.com/woodworking.html **
---------------------------------------------

On Sat, 14 Jul 2007 10:53:07 GMT, B A R R Y wrote:

On Fri, 13 Jul 2007 18:33:05 -0700, mac davis
wrote:

You probably could, Barry... because you're done them before and know what
you're doing... You probably have a source for hi-tech slippy-slidy material for
it near you..

What material? My inserts are waxed plywood.

---------------------------------------------
** http://www.bburke.com/woodworking.html **
---------------------------------------------

Cool.. I can get plywood in Mexicali.. Only 3 hours away..
It would/wood only cost about 15 gallons of gas and half a day to save a few
bucks by making my own..


mac

Please remove splinters before emailing

mac davis wrote:
On Sat, 14 Jul 2007 10:53:07 GMT, B A R R Y wrote:

On Fri, 13 Jul 2007 18:33:05 -0700, mac davis
wrote:

You probably could, Barry... because you're done them before and know what
you're doing... You probably have a source for hi-tech slippy-slidy material for
it near you..
What material? My inserts are waxed plywood.

---------------------------------------------
** http://www.bburke.com/woodworking.html **
---------------------------------------------

Cool.. I can get plywood in Mexicali.. Only 3 hours away..
It would/wood only cost about 15 gallons of gas and half a day to save a few
bucks by making my own..


mac

Please remove splinters before emailing
Don't you have any mesquite down there that you could resaw, let dry
for a year, shape it to fit your insert, etc...?

On Sat, 14 Jul 2007 07:37:07 -0700, mac davis
wrote:


Cool.. I can get plywood in Mexicali.. Only 3 hours away..
It would/wood only cost about 15 gallons of gas and half a day to save a few
bucks by making my own..

That's why property is cheap. G

---------------------------------------------
** http://www.bburke.com/woodworking.html **
---------------------------------------------

On Sat, 14 Jul 2007 09:37:35 -0500, user wrote:


Don't you have any mesquite down there that you could resaw, let dry
for a year, shape it to fit your insert, etc...?

Sort of a "sore" topic...

Everyone told me about all the ironwood and mesquite "laying around the
desert"....

We almost bought a desert rail to go get some... real rational thinking, spend 8
or 10 thousand bucks to go find a few bucks in wood.. lol

Went on 3 "scouting" trips with the local 4x4 club here and didn't find ANYTHING
usable..

Being in the middle of a huge desert reserve, you can only take down wood, and
what little there was on the ground was old, termite munched, rotted and a great
home for scorpions and rattlesnakes...

We're going to Yuma soon for a shopping trip...
She goes to wally world, etc... I go to Lowes and harbor freight...

I've found that the best way to smuggle lumber across the border is to bury it
in groceries.. lol




mac

Please remove splinters before emailing

On Sat, 14 Jul 2007 17:28:31 -0400, B A R R Y wrote:

On Sat, 14 Jul 2007 07:37:07 -0700, mac davis
wrote:


Cool.. I can get plywood in Mexicali.. Only 3 hours away..
It would/wood only cost about 15 gallons of gas and half a day to save a few
bucks by making my own..

That's why property is cheap. G

---------------------------------------------
** http://www.bburke.com/woodworking.html **
---------------------------------------------

For sure... Sometimes it's almost like we're in a foreign country.. lol

Kind of scary, though, how prices are going up...
A friend that's a Realtor here said that our house would sell for about $350k...
more than twice what it cost for the land and building the house last year!

We built our house for about $60 or $65 a foot... it's around $100 a foot now
and all the builders have a huge waiting list..





mac

Please remove splinters before emailing

mac davis wrote:
On Sat, 14 Jul 2007 09:37:35 -0500, user wrote:


Don't you have any mesquite down there that you could resaw, let dry
for a year, shape it to fit your insert, etc...?

Sort of a "sore" topic...

Everyone told me about all the ironwood and mesquite "laying around the
desert"....

We almost bought a desert rail to go get some... real rational thinking, spend 8
or 10 thousand bucks to go find a few bucks in wood.. lol

Went on 3 "scouting" trips with the local 4x4 club here and didn't find ANYTHING
usable..

Being in the middle of a huge desert reserve, you can only take down wood, and
what little there was on the ground was old, termite munched, rotted and a great
home for scorpions and rattlesnakes...

We're going to Yuma soon for a shopping trip...
She goes to wally world, etc... I go to Lowes and harbor freight...

I've found that the best way to smuggle lumber across the border is to bury it
in groceries.. lol

Graduated Yuma in '72. Been back about 6 times since, 4 of those in
last 7 years. Which Wally World? There's 3 of them now. The original on
Pacific Ave. The 2nd on Ave B and 28thStreet and I believe they just
finished the new one out in the Foothills.
And Harbor Freight is on 16th St. and about Arizona
But I can't remember for the life of me where Lowes in located at!



mac

Please remove splinters before emailing

"dpb" wrote in message ...
Doug Miller wrote:
If you don't have an 8" dado set, a 7-1/4" circular-saw blade would do
the job as well.
snip

Well, maybe two, installed side by side. They really are narrow
kerf...

Depends on the blade...

Damn few (any?) will have large enough arbor hole to get on the tablesaw
shaft, though...


????????????????????????

In article , dpb wrote:
Doug Miller wrote:
In article , Patriarch
wrote:
(Doug Miller) wrote in
:

In article , "Swingman"
wrote:
"silver_18038" wrote in message
I have an older Craftsman table saw and I want to make some zero
clearance table inserts out of some 1/4" MDF. The problem I have is
that the top of the 10" blade is almost even with the top of the
table. How does one get to install the insert without killing
himself?
Got an 8" dado stack? If so, use one of the 8" blades, not a chipper,
to make the initial cut.
If you don't have an 8" dado set, a 7-1/4" circular-saw blade would do
the job as well.
snip

Well, maybe two, installed side by side. They really are narrow kerf...

Depends on the blade...

Damn few (any?) will have large enough arbor hole to get on the tablesaw
shaft, though...

What in the world are you talking about? 5/8" arbor is standard for both.

--
Regards,
Doug Miller (alphageek at milmac dot com)

It's time to throw all their damned tea in the harbor again.

On Sun, 15 Jul 2007 16:27:39 -0500, user wrote:

We're going to Yuma soon for a shopping trip...
She goes to wally world, etc... I go to Lowes and harbor freight...

I've found that the best way to smuggle lumber across the border is to bury it
in groceries.. lol

Graduated Yuma in '72. Been back about 6 times since, 4 of those in
last 7 years. Which Wally World? There's 3 of them now. The original on
Pacific Ave. The 2nd on Ave B and 28thStreet and I believe they just
finished the new one out in the Foothills.
And Harbor Freight is on 16th St. and about Arizona
But I can't remember for the life of me where Lowes in located at!


I'm pretty sure that Yuma has one, but I think that we go to Lowes when we're in
El Centro and Home Depot when in Yuma...
Easier because it's close to Sears, Harbor Freight and the stores my wife goes
to after she drops me at HF.. lol

She goes to a "super walmart" on the main drag... senior moment prevents me from
remembering the street name, but it's across the street from a Von's...

We used to go to Calexico/El Centro to shop until we tried Yuma...
Just about an hour farther from San Felipe but cleaner, nicer and better
stores.. (no duty free though)



mac

Please remove splinters before emailing