Hi,

I bought a zero clearance insert for my Unisaw. This is the first time I've
owned one, and I'm a bit puzzled as to how to make the slot. My first
instinct was to lower the blade completely under the table, turn on the
power, then slowly raise the blade with the new insert in place. However,
even when the blade is at its lowest point, the bottom of the insert hits
it. I couldn't possibly run the saw this way to get the slot started.

What am I missing??

TIA

-m

"Steve" wrote in message
...

Be VERY careful now -- you want to continue "not missing anything"!

The Delta inserts have a clearance pre-cut.


- Nate

"Nate" wrote in message
...

"Steve" wrote in message
...

Be VERY careful now -- you want to continue "not missing anything"!

The Delta inserts have a clearance pre-cut.


- Nate

I was just relating to the aftermarket UHMW insert blank I worked on last
week.
It required a bit of bandsaw work to clear space for the splitter before I
could even begin to lower it onto the table saw blade.
--
-- Steve
www.ApacheTrail.com/ww/




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"Steve" wrote:


"Nate" wrote in message
...

"Steve" wrote in message
...

Be VERY careful now -- you want to continue "not missing anything"!

The Delta inserts have a clearance pre-cut.


- Nate

I was just relating to the aftermarket UHMW insert blank I worked on
last week.
It required a bit of bandsaw work to clear space for the splitter
before I could even begin to lower it onto the table saw blade.

Lower it onto the blade? I always slowly raise the blade into the already
fastened insert. Lowering the insert onto a blade sounds pretty risky:
assuming you are talking about cutting the zero clearance throat.

LD

In article , "Steve"
wrote:

Just lay the ZCTP into the opening (with the saw blade fully lowered).
Carefully(!) hold the plate up with your fingers and start the saw blade
spinning.

Be VERY careful now -- you want to continue "not missing anything"!

Lightly / gingerly / (insert your own phrase ) lower the plate onto the
whirling blade. Press it on down 'til it lays level in the throat.
Now begin to raise the blade on through the plate.

This is generally the way I do it - you can also use the fence to ensure
the insert is lowered parallel to the blade. An alternative is to mount
a smaller diameter blade that allows the insert to be fully seated
before turning the saw on but then you need to be sure both blades make
the same kerf width.

--
Owen Lowe and his Fly-by-Night Copper Company
____

"To know the world intimately is the beginning of caring."
-- Ann Hayman Zwinger

In article %K0fd.3947$8R.3884@trnddc02,
Lobby Dosser wrote:

Jeez, I missed the start of this. Unfriggin believable!

I think if you saw it done you'd not be so squeamish. The blade is fully
lowered below the surface of the table- it's just that the blade won't
let the very front of the insert fully seat by an amount just shy of
3/4" (I just went out and set up a mock kerf cutting). The rear of the
insert is in the throat and resting on the rear lugs - you're only
pivoting the front downward to fully seat on the front lugs. When you're
done the blade is still below the top of the insert's surface so you
aren't exposing yourself to a bare blade. Stand to the very side of the
saw so that you can hold the back of the insert with one hand and lower
the front with the other.

What do you imagine could happen that would make this method so unsafe?
The insert is secure left to right by the throat opening. It's
registered and resting on the rear lugs - all downward motion (as I
mentioned, about 3/4") of the insert is stopped once it hits the forward
lugs and by then it's fully secured by the front of the throat opening.

It's really no different than a plunge cut on a table saw or a
table-mounted router.

--
Owen Lowe and his Fly-by-Night Copper Company
____

"To know the world intimately is the beginning of caring."
-- Ann Hayman Zwinger

Fly-by-Night CC wrote:

In article %K0fd.3947$8R.3884@trnddc02,
Lobby Dosser wrote:

Jeez, I missed the start of this. Unfriggin believable!

I think if you saw it done you'd not be so squeamish. The blade is
fully lowered below the surface of the table- it's just that the blade
won't let the very front of the insert fully seat by an amount just
shy of 3/4" (I just went out and set up a mock kerf cutting). The rear
of the insert is in the throat and resting on the rear lugs - you're
only pivoting the front downward to fully seat on the front lugs. When
you're done the blade is still below the top of the insert's surface
so you aren't exposing yourself to a bare blade. Stand to the very
side of the saw so that you can hold the back of the insert with one
hand and lower the front with the other.

What do you imagine could happen that would make this method so
unsafe? The insert is secure left to right by the throat opening. It's
registered and resting on the rear lugs - all downward motion (as I
mentioned, about 3/4") of the insert is stopped once it hits the
forward lugs and by then it's fully secured by the front of the throat
opening.

It's really no different than a plunge cut on a table saw or a
table-mounted router.


Other than having your hands far too close to the path of the blade? I
may be over cautious, but I've got all my fingers. I've made several zero
clearance inserts and in all cases I've manged to lower the blade enough
to allow screwing the insert to the table prior to cutting the slot.

Something I'll definitely be checking if I buy another saw.

LD

"Lobby Dosser" wrote in message
news:sw2fd.3958$8R.1579@trnddc02...
Fly-by-Night CC wrote:

In article %K0fd.3947$8R.3884@trnddc02,
Lobby Dosser wrote:

Jeez, I missed the start of this. Unfriggin believable!

I think if you saw it done you'd not be so squeamish. The blade is
fully lowered below the surface of the table- it's just that the blade
won't let the very front of the insert fully seat by an amount just
shy of 3/4" (I just went out and set up a mock kerf cutting). The rear
of the insert is in the throat and resting on the rear lugs - you're
only pivoting the front downward to fully seat on the front lugs. When
you're done the blade is still below the top of the insert's surface
so you aren't exposing yourself to a bare blade. Stand to the very
side of the saw so that you can hold the back of the insert with one
hand and lower the front with the other.

What do you imagine could happen that would make this method so
unsafe? The insert is secure left to right by the throat opening. It's
registered and resting on the rear lugs - all downward motion (as I
mentioned, about 3/4") of the insert is stopped once it hits the
forward lugs and by then it's fully secured by the front of the throat
opening.

It's really no different than a plunge cut on a table saw or a
table-mounted router.


Other than having your hands far too close to the path of the blade? I
may be over cautious, but I've got all my fingers. I've made several zero
clearance inserts and in all cases I've manged to lower the blade enough
to allow screwing the insert to the table prior to cutting the slot.

Something I'll definitely be checking if I buy another saw.

LD

I'll have to admit that I thought "is he friggin' kidding?" when the first
person posted about lowering the insert by hand onto the blade. Hey, if he
and Owen feel safe doing that, more power to them. I wouldn't feel safe
doing it. But, as I think Owen mentioned, it's pretty simple matter to just
throw the 8" blade from the dado kit on to make the cut, if need be.

todd

Owen Lowe notes:

What do you imagine could happen that would make this method so unsafe?
The insert is secure left to right by the throat opening. It's
registered and resting on the rear lugs - all downward motion (as I
mentioned, about 3/4") of the insert is stopped once it hits the forward
lugs and by then it's fully secured by the front of the throat opening.

It's really no different than a plunge cut on a table saw or a
table-mounted router.

Yeah, it is. The piece is too small to grip safely.

Charlie Self
"When we are planning for posterity, we ought to remember that virtue is not
hereditary." Thomas Paine

"Steve" wrote in message
:
: Lightly / gingerly / (insert your own phrase ) lower the plate onto the
: whirling blade. Press it on down 'til it lays level in the throat.
: Now begin to raise the blade on through the plate.
:

You're nuts.

Why not throw a smaller blade in there to establish a pre-cut and then run
the 10"?
I know it's boring and safe but it sure beats cleaning blood off the walls
when you only have stumps where fingers used to be.

-Brian

Steve wrote:
Lightly / gingerly / (insert your own phrase ) lower the plate onto the
whirling blade. Press it on down 'til it lays level in the throat.
Now begin to raise the blade on through the plate.


I think you forgot the step just prior to this.

"Be sure you are wearing a diaper".

UA100

patriarch wrote:
You may want to google the archives regarding these inserts. There was a
good thread, humourous and informative, on making these yourself, sometime
in the last year or so. Originated by Unisaw A100, I believe.


Good? Humorous? Informative? Me? I think it must have
been that Greg Millen guy.

Anyways, for anyone wanting to re-read, here it is.

UA100


The following presumes you have a right tilting Delta
Unisaw. Please make the necessary adjustments for your make
of saw, insert thickness and blade tilt direction.

How To Make A Zero Clearance Insert With Splitter:

1) Go to Home Depot/Lowes and give an eye up to the stack
of 1/2" MDF.

2) Find a sheet that hasn't been dinged by the fork lift
tines during the twice weekly Warehouse Rodeo and Jousting
Championship.

3) Wrestle the sheet off and onto one of the (insert color
here) flat carts.

4) Wheel it back to the nice man at the Safety Speed-Cut
panel saw.

5) Instruct him to make cross cuts at about 32". You may
choose to use another size(s). Exercise this option now.

6) Load the cut sheets back onto the cart, stand in line,
let everyone know how peeved you are that you are being made
to stand in line, make an ass of yourself and then pay the
nice people at the check out.

7) When back at the shop set aside one piece for a table
saw sled to be built later. Set another aside for future
projects or jigs and fixtures.

8) With the last piece begin ripping the sheet into pieces
1/16"ish wider than your table saw blade insert.

9) Cross cut the pieces 1/16"ish longer than your insert.

10) Make a template. Here's where people usually chime in
to just use your present insert to make the new inserts. I
prefer to make a template for reasons that will be made
known shortly.

11) Start with your OEM insert and trace a line around it
onto one of the MDF blanks.

12) Band saw (jig saw) the rounded ends off.

13) Go back to Home Depot/Lowes and buy some 3M (Scotch)
No. 4011 Exterior Mounting Tape. It has a proper amount of
tackiness but isn't so think that the template/item being
cut will shift thus spoiling the cut.

14) Double face tape the MDF to the OEM insert with
4-pieces of tape 1" long. Press together using hand
pressure.

15) Load router table with router bit having a bearing on
top. Raise bit until the cutter is a red cubic hair or so
above the thickness of the MDF.

16) Run the MDF/OEM insert sandwich into the bit and trim
off all edges and ends.

17) Go back to Home Depot/Lowes and purchase a box of 1/2-8
flat head Phillips sheet metal screws.

18) Using the OEM insert to locate, drill and countersink
the face of your template for four of these screws.

19) Insert screws so that points just peek out by 1/32"ish.

20) Using this template take another of the MDF blanks and
press the pointy end screw side onto the blank.

21) Rout off the excess as you did above with the template
and OEM insert.

22) Rinse and repeat until all blanks are routed.

23) Drill and countersink the face of the MDF insert for
leveling screws. Step 20 will have pre-located these for
you. Insert 1/2-8 flat head Phillips screws into freshly
drilled and countersunk holes so tips are just coming
through.

24) Into the edge of each template drill and countersink a
hole for a 3/4" course thread drywall screw of other screw
of your choosing. Do the same with one screw on the end of
the MDF insert. Be sure to oversize this hole so the screw
does not split the MDF. This screw hole is not structural.

25) Insert screws into freshly drilled and countersunk
holes.

26) Place MDF insert into blade opening in table saw.
Check for fit. Adjust leveling screws so insert is flush
with the saw table. Adjust the edge screws in or out for
perfect snug fit.

26) Repeat the above with three blanks for every saw blade
you own, i.e., you have four blades then fit up twelve
inserts.

27) Using your dado set place onto the saw arbor the two
outside cutters.

28) Insert MDF insert into blade opening and park the saw
fence over it but to the wide side away from the line of the
dado set below.

29) Raise dado set until the cutters are just starting to
bulge through the face of the MDF insert.

30) Repeat until all inserts are done.

31) Replace dado cutters with your saw blade and repeat the
raising through though this time raise the blade as high as
it will go.

32) Carefully measure from the fence side face of the saw
blade to the fence side edge of the insert and set saw fence
at that setting.

33) Feed one of the inserts into the saw blade for 1 1/2".
Stop and withdraw.

34) Set up porty planer and begin planing stock to a
thickness that matches the kerf made in the last step.
Note: Don't presume that you only need to plane the wood to
the advertised blade kerf unless your saw has zero run out.

35) Cut and fit the freshly planed stock into the kerf.
Let it stick out a minimum of 1/4" plus the thickness of
whatever material you expect to be cutting, i.e., for 3/4"
material you will want this to stand 1".

36) Glue freshly trimmed, freshly planed stock into kerf
slot in the MDF insert. When dry, insert MDF insert into
saw blade opening and rip a piece of wood. Check to see
that there is no gap between the wood and the freshly glued,
freshly trimmed, freshly planed stock.

37) Repeat until all inserts for all inserts are done.

38) Set aside balance of insert blanks to be used at a
later date or for when you set up for dado cutting.

39) Post your horrible experience at Home Depot/Lowes on
rec.woodorking and make an ass of yourself.

UA100

Infidelwillcrushyou wrote:
PLEASE NEVER LOWER ANYTHING ON TO THE BLADE!!!!!!!!!!

You may have purchased the wrong insert for your saw. The correct insert
should not have this issue.


That's not exactly true; it's quite common. The proper response is to put a
single dado blade in the saw, then raise that blade through the insert. Whereas
a 10" blade doesn't have the clearance, a 8" blade shouldn't have a bit of
trouble.



--
Mortimer Schnerd, RN


http://www.mortimerschnerd.com

On Sun, 24 Oct 2004 21:49:45 -0700, "Mike Pio"
wrote:

Hi,

I bought a zero clearance insert for my Unisaw. This is the first time I've
owned one, and I'm a bit puzzled as to how to make the slot. My first
instinct was to lower the blade completely under the table, turn on the
power, then slowly raise the blade with the new insert in place. However,
even when the blade is at its lowest point, the bottom of the insert hits
it. I couldn't possibly run the saw this way to get the slot started.

What am I missing??

TIA

-m


Howdy,

You have lots of good suggestions already, but I will add another
thought:

Shine a light into the saw to see if any crud is preventing lowering
the blade a bit more. You may have all the clearance you need.

HTH,

--
Kenneth

If you email... Please remove the "SPAMLESS."

Common problem with just about every brand of Tablesaw...even when
lowered a 10 inch blade will not allow the insert to be lowered flush
with the saws table ...

As others have said just use a smaller blade... I find that easier
then using a router etc to precut a shallow grouve in the bottom of
the insert...

Just remember to "clamp" down the insert (2 x 4's or using the
fence...when you raise the blade...

Piece of cake really.....

Bob Griffiths
On Sun, 24 Oct 2004 21:49:45 -0700, "Mike Pio"
wrote:

Hi,

I bought a zero clearance insert for my Unisaw. This is the first time I've
owned one, and I'm a bit puzzled as to how to make the slot. My first
instinct was to lower the blade completely under the table, turn on the
power, then slowly raise the blade with the new insert in place. However,
even when the blade is at its lowest point, the bottom of the insert hits
it. I couldn't possibly run the saw this way to get the slot started.

What am I missing??

TIA

-m

"Steve" wrote in message
...

You aren't missing anything (yet).

Just lay the ZCTP into the opening (with the saw blade fully lowered).
Carefully(!) hold the plate up with your fingers and start the saw blade
spinning.

Be VERY careful now -- you want to continue "not missing anything"!

Lightly / gingerly / (insert your own phrase ) lower the plate onto the
whirling blade. Press it on down 'til it lays level in the throat.
Now begin to raise the blade on through the plate.


Steve, I think you are an idiot

Put the new insert on top of the original one. Put a 2x4 on to of it,
running font to back and clamp it to the saw. Then start up the saw and
raise the bade.

"Frank J. Vitale" wrote in message
ink.net...
Put the new insert on top of the original one. Put a 2x4 on to of it,
running font to back and clamp it to the saw. Then start up the saw and
raise the bade.


How do you align the new insert perfectly with the bottom one?

What do you imagine could happen that would make this method so unsafe?
The insert is secure left to right by the throat opening. It's
registered and resting on the rear lugs - all downward motion (as I
mentioned, about 3/4") of the insert is stopped once it hits the forward
lugs and by then it's fully secured by the front of the throat opening.

I imagine the leading edge of the spinning saw blade could catch the stock
and send it spinning up and back ala kickback and startling the operator
into a reflexive action resulting in one of those Sawstop hotdog
demonstrations, only without the hotdog.

Lee


--
To e-mail, replace "bucketofspam" with "dleegordon"

Very carefully! Actually I used that method to cut an insert without
the aid of a smaller diameter blade. One way to do it is align a
straight edge against one long edge of the original insert, lay the new
insert on top, making sure that the front or rear edge is correctly
positioned, tape it down and then clamp a board over the whole thing.
Start up the saw and bring the blade up through the new insert. Shut
her down, remove both inserts, install the new insert, cover with a
board ( clamped to the table top)off to the side of the slot, and finish
cutting the insert to the maximum exposure of the blade.

David

Leon wrote:

"Frank J. Vitale" wrote in message
ink.net...

Put the new insert on top of the original one. Put a 2x4 on to of it,
running font to back and clamp it to the saw. Then start up the saw and
raise the bade.



How do you align the new insert perfectly with the bottom one?

On Mon, 25 Oct 2004 06:06:22 GMT, patriarch
wrote:

Or, also safely, install the factory Unisaw insert, and double stick tape
the zero clearance plate over it. Then clamp the sandwich to the table top
with a tubafor and a couple of clamps, and raise your blade slowly through
the zero clearance plate.

I use these methods all of the time with shop-made zero clearance inserts.
I'm really nervous about the method Steve recommends...

You may want to google the archives regarding these inserts. There was a
good thread, humourous and informative, on making these yourself, sometime
in the last year or so. Originated by Unisaw A100, I believe.

Patriarch

I've never had one that I couldn't lower the blade enough to miss, but
if I did...
I might try the partially installed insert thing like the answer that
scared everyone, but with your 2x4 method... at least my hand(s) would
be a few feet from the blade in case the insert bound or something..

On Mon, 25 Oct 2004 04:01:55 -0500, Unisaw A100
wrote:

Steve wrote:
Lightly / gingerly / (insert your own phrase ) lower the plate onto the
whirling blade. Press it on down 'til it lays level in the throat.
Now begin to raise the blade on through the plate.


I think you forgot the step just prior to this.

"Be sure you are wearing a diaper".

UA100
I think that step might be "have the ambulance parked outside and your
medical insurance card clenched between your teeth"..

Couple of brads to hold until the kerf's made....

"David" wrote in message
news
Very carefully! Actually I used that method to cut an insert without
the aid of a smaller diameter blade. One way to do it is align a
straight edge against one long edge of the original insert, lay the new
insert on top, making sure that the front or rear edge is correctly
positioned, tape it down and then clamp a board over the whole thing.
Start up the saw and bring the blade up through the new insert. Shut
her down, remove both inserts, install the new insert, cover with a
board ( clamped to the table top)off to the side of the slot, and finish
cutting the insert to the maximum exposure of the blade.

David

Leon wrote:

"Frank J. Vitale" wrote in message
ink.net...

Put the new insert on top of the original one. Put a 2x4 on to of it,
running font to back and clamp it to the saw. Then start up the saw and
raise the bade.



How do you align the new insert perfectly with the bottom one?

"Mike Pio" wrote:

I couldn't possibly run the saw this way to get the slot started.

I had the same problem with my saw (a General 650), where the blade can be
lowered just a little more than 1/4" below the surface, but not the full
1/2" required. I do not (yet) own a dado or a smaller blade....

So to make mine, I used a 1/4" straight bit in the router, set to 1/4"
depth, and used an edge guide set so the cut groove is the where the blade
will be. If you don't have an edge guide, use whatever method you like to
cut measured straight grooves. Make the groove extend about 4" front and
back of blade center. This will leave 1/4" of material to host the zero
clearance slot.

I could now lock down the insert sitting flush before raising the saw blade
through it.(again, this requires that the blade be lowered at least 1/4"
below table surface).

As an added benefit (YMMV), the sides of the insert's zero clearance slot
are now only 1/4" deep, rather than 1/2", which means less noise, and I
would think less wear on the sides of the blade's teeth.

/rick.

" What do you imagine could happen that would make this method so unsafe?
The insert is secure left to right by the throat opening. It's
registered and resting on the rear lugs - all downward motion (as I
mentioned, about 3/4") of the insert is stopped once it hits the forward
lugs and by then it's fully secured by the front of the throat opening."

This is EXACTLY the kind of thinking that resulted in my losing the dip
joint of my left ring finger. I cannot believe anybody in this NG would
give advice like this.

!!!!!TRUST ME, THAT IS THE MOST MORONIC PIECE OF ADVICE I HAVE SEEN IN
PRINT!!!!

Things happen so quickly with your fingers so close to that spinning
blade...

--
-Jim
©¿©¬

The first answer to this question still makes the most sense. Start
with a smaller diameter blade and raise it through the insert. Then
install your larger blade. It worked great for me and I do not see why
people are suggesting all these high risk approaches.

Dick

On Sun, 24 Oct 2004 21:49:45 -0700, "Mike Pio"
wrote:

Hi,

I bought a zero clearance insert for my Unisaw. This is the first time I've
owned one, and I'm a bit puzzled as to how to make the slot. My first
instinct was to lower the blade completely under the table, turn on the
power, then slowly raise the blade with the new insert in place. However,
even when the blade is at its lowest point, the bottom of the insert hits
it. I couldn't possibly run the saw this way to get the slot started.

What am I missing??

TIA

-m



got a 7-1/4" skilsaw blade? mount that in your unisaw to start the
cut.

"Todd Fatheree" wrote:

"Lobby Dosser" wrote in message
news:sw2fd.3958$8R.1579@trnddc02...
Fly-by-Night CC wrote:

In article %K0fd.3947$8R.3884@trnddc02,
Lobby Dosser wrote:

Jeez, I missed the start of this. Unfriggin believable!

I think if you saw it done you'd not be so squeamish. The blade is
fully lowered below the surface of the table- it's just that the
blade won't let the very front of the insert fully seat by an
amount just shy of 3/4" (I just went out and set up a mock kerf
cutting). The rear of the insert is in the throat and resting on
the rear lugs - you're only pivoting the front downward to fully
seat on the front lugs. When you're done the blade is still below
the top of the insert's surface so you aren't exposing yourself to
a bare blade. Stand to the very side of the saw so that you can
hold the back of the insert with one hand and lower the front with
the other.

What do you imagine could happen that would make this method so
unsafe? The insert is secure left to right by the throat opening.
It's registered and resting on the rear lugs - all downward motion
(as I mentioned, about 3/4") of the insert is stopped once it hits
the forward lugs and by then it's fully secured by the front of the
throat opening.

It's really no different than a plunge cut on a table saw or a
table-mounted router.


Other than having your hands far too close to the path of the blade?
I may be over cautious, but I've got all my fingers. I've made
several zero clearance inserts and in all cases I've manged to lower
the blade enough to allow screwing the insert to the table prior to
cutting the slot.

Something I'll definitely be checking if I buy another saw.

LD

I'll have to admit that I thought "is he friggin' kidding?" when the
first person posted about lowering the insert by hand onto the blade.
Hey, if he and Owen feel safe doing that, more power to them. I
wouldn't feel safe doing it.


But, as I think Owen mentioned, it's
pretty simple matter to just throw the 8" blade from the dado kit on
to make the cut, if need be.

I can see doing that to get clearance for the blade on the insert. Then
pull the dado blade and make the final cut with the desired blade.


todd

"Lee Gordon" wrote:

What do you imagine could happen that would make this method so
unsafe? The insert is secure left to right by the throat opening. It's
registered and resting on the rear lugs - all downward motion (as I
mentioned, about 3/4") of the insert is stopped once it hits the
forward lugs and by then it's fully secured by the front of the throat
opening.

I imagine the leading edge of the spinning saw blade could catch the
stock and send it spinning up and back ala kickback and startling the
operator into a reflexive action resulting in one of those Sawstop
hotdog demonstrations, only without the hotdog.

Or the Mayo, or the Lettuce, or the Sawstop ...


Lee

In article ,
otforme (Charlie Self) wrote:

It's really no different than a plunge cut on a table saw or a
table-mounted router.

Yeah, it is. The piece is too small to grip safely

Well, I'm comfortable making the kerf with this method. By all means
don't perform anything if you have doubts about your safety. Fear or
nervousness can quickly lead to mishaps.

||||/ \||||

See? Still got all 10.

--
Owen Lowe and his Fly-by-Night Copper Company
____

"To know the world intimately is the beginning of caring."
-- Ann Hayman Zwinger

mac davis wrote:
I think that step might be "have the ambulance parked outside and your
medical insurance card clenched between your teeth"..


Yahbut I think if you'd poll most any EMT you'd find they
would appreciate it and thus do a better job if the fecal
matter is/was well contained.

Not saying you shouldn't be ready, specially with the
insurance card within reach.

UA100

"Fly-by-Night CC" wrote in message newsnlnlowe-

||||/ \||||

See? Still got all 10.


Yah but now they are all the same length... That does not count. LOL

how bout loading a smaller blade into the saw, then raise that into the
fastened down throat plate, after this, you can put the ten inch blade back..?

On Sun, 24 Oct 2004 21:49:45 -0700, "Mike Pio"
wrote:

Hi,

I bought a zero clearance insert for my Unisaw. This is the first time I've
owned one, and I'm a bit puzzled as to how to make the slot. My first
instinct was to lower the blade completely under the table, turn on the
power, then slowly raise the blade with the new insert in place. However,
even when the blade is at its lowest point, the bottom of the insert hits
it. I couldn't possibly run the saw this way to get the slot started.

What am I missing??


I usually run a slot on the underside of the insert with the outer
blades from a dado set, just to give it enough relief for the 10"
blade to fit.

Then I clamp on a piece of waste stock over the insert, clamp it down,
and run the 10" blade up very slowly.


Regards,
Tom.

"People funny. Life a funny thing." Sonny Liston

Thomas J.Watson - Cabinetmaker (ret.)
tjwatson1ATcomcastDOTnet (real email)
http://home.comcast.net/~tjwatson1

I don't know about other saws, but my Sears lowers a 10 inch blade
well below the insert.

"Bob G." wrote:

Common problem with just about every brand of Tablesaw...even when
lowered a 10 inch blade will not allow the insert to be lowered flush
with the saws table ...

As others have said just use a smaller blade... I find that easier
then using a router etc to precut a shallow grouve in the bottom of
the insert...

Just remember to "clamp" down the insert (2 x 4's or using the
fence...when you raise the blade...

Piece of cake really.....

Bob Griffiths
On Sun, 24 Oct 2004 21:49:45 -0700, "Mike Pio"
wrote:

Hi,

I bought a zero clearance insert for my Unisaw. This is the first time I've
owned one, and I'm a bit puzzled as to how to make the slot. My first
instinct was to lower the blade completely under the table, turn on the
power, then slowly raise the blade with the new insert in place. However,
even when the blade is at its lowest point, the bottom of the insert hits
it. I couldn't possibly run the saw this way to get the slot started.

What am I missing??

TIA

-m

On Mon, 25 Oct 2004 13:53:51 -0700, Fly-by-Night CC
calmly ranted:

In article ,
otforme (Charlie Self) wrote:

It's really no different than a plunge cut on a table saw or a
table-mounted router.

Yeah, it is. The piece is too small to grip safely

Well, I'm comfortable making the kerf with this method. By all means
don't perform anything if you have doubts about your safety. Fear or
nervousness can quickly lead to mishaps.

||||/ \||||

See? Still got all 10.

Yabbut, it looks like you've pared 'em all down to the same
length now, Owie. What'd you use, the routah or the crosscut
sled, or a Radio Alarm Saur? Huh, huh, huh? Got pics?


--
"Excess regulation and government spending destroy jobs and increase
unemployment. Every regulator we fire results in the creation of over
150 new jobs, enough to hire the ex-regulator, the unemployed, and
the able-bodied poor." -Michael Badnarik

VOTE LIBERTARIAN ON NOVEMBER 2, 2004 OR YOU WON'T CHANGE ANYTHING.

In article ,
Larry Jaques wrote:

Yabbut, it looks like you've pared 'em all down to the same
length now, Owie. What'd you use, the routah or the crosscut
sled, or a Radio Alarm Saur? Huh, huh, huh? Got pics?

N-o-t-a. Lathe work wears out my fingers as I check for flats and rough
spots and while friction polishing. The gloves I usually wear have all
worn out in the fingertips...
















--
Owen Lowe and his Fly-by-Night Copper Company
____

"To know the world intimately is the beginning of caring."
-- Ann Hayman Zwinger

On Tue, 26 Oct 2004 01:41:26 GMT, "George E. Cawthon"
wrote:

I don't know about other saws, but my Sears lowers a 10 inch blade
well below the insert.

My powermatic won't drop below the inserts I make from 1/2" stock.

On Mon, 25 Oct 2004 13:53:51 -0700, Fly-by-Night CC
wrote:

In article ,
otforme (Charlie Self) wrote:

It's really no different than a plunge cut on a table saw or a
table-mounted router.

Yeah, it is. The piece is too small to grip safely

Well, I'm comfortable making the kerf with this method. By all means
don't perform anything if you have doubts about your safety. Fear or
nervousness can quickly lead to mishaps.

||||/ \||||

See? Still got all 10.

well, don't know about fear being all that bad....
I have a healthy fear/respect for the moving things in the shop, and
if I ever lose that, I'll quit.... IMHO, when you get too comfortable
and safe feeling, you're going to make one of those "I KNEW better,
but...." mistakes and lose some skin..

On Mon, 25 Oct 2004 18:44:08 -0700, Larry Jaques
wrote:

On Mon, 25 Oct 2004 13:53:51 -0700, Fly-by-Night CC
calmly ranted:

In article ,
otforme (Charlie Self) wrote:

It's really no different than a plunge cut on a table saw or a
table-mounted router.

Yeah, it is. The piece is too small to grip safely

Well, I'm comfortable making the kerf with this method. By all means
don't perform anything if you have doubts about your safety. Fear or
nervousness can quickly lead to mishaps.

||||/ \||||

See? Still got all 10.

Yabbut, it looks like you've pared 'em all down to the same
length now, Owie. What'd you use, the routah or the crosscut
sled, or a Radio Alarm Saur? Huh, huh, huh? Got pics?

hell, any good wood worker know that for a surface that flat, you need
a jointer...