I've had a Craftsman job site table saw for a couple of years now and
have been having a hard time trying to find a zero clearance insert for
it. The inserts that come with it are metal rectangles that hook/latch
into the table top. Here's a link to the saw:
http://www.sears.com/sr/javasr/produ...OL& ihtoken=1

I know this is a long shot, but does anyone have ideas on where I can
find a zero clearance TP for it? Thanks in advance.


Bob

Bob Mill wrote:
I've had a Craftsman job site table saw for a couple of years now and
have been having a hard time trying to find a zero clearance insert for
it. The inserts that come with it are metal rectangles that hook/latch
into the table top. Here's a link to the saw:
http://www.sears.com/sr/javasr/produ...OL& ihtoken=1

I know this is a long shot, but does anyone have ideas on where I can
find a zero clearance TP for it? Thanks in advance.


Bob

I make my own out of plywood. A tip I haven't tried yet is using those
white plastic kitchen cutting boards to make inserts.

"Bob Mill" wrote in message
oups.com...
I've had a Craftsman job site table saw for a couple of years now and
have been having a hard time trying to find a zero clearance insert for
it. The inserts that come with it are metal rectangles that hook/latch
into the table top. Here's a link to the saw:
http://www.sears.com/sr/javasr/produ...OL& ihtoken=1

I know this is a long shot, but does anyone have ideas on where I can
find a zero clearance TP for it? Thanks in advance.


Bob


Use some doublesided tape to attach your old plate to piece of high quality
plywood, use a templae bit in your router and you're in business.

That's kinda was I was thinking, but here's a dumb question. Since
they old insert clipped into the table, but plywood insert isn't going
to be able to do that. How do you guys secure your homemade insert
into the opening?

Thanks for all the help.


Bob

C & E wrote:
"Bob Mill" wrote in message
oups.com...
I've had a Craftsman job site table saw for a couple of years now and
have been having a hard time trying to find a zero clearance insert for
it. The inserts that come with it are metal rectangles that hook/latch
into the table top. Here's a link to the saw:
http://www.sears.com/sr/javasr/produ...OL& ihtoken=1

I know this is a long shot, but does anyone have ideas on where I can
find a zero clearance TP for it? Thanks in advance.


Bob


Use some doublesided tape to attach your old plate to piece of high quality
plywood, use a templae bit in your router and you're in business.

Bob Mill wrote:
That's kinda was I was thinking, but here's a dumb question. Since
they old insert clipped into the table, but plywood insert isn't going
to be able to do that. How do you guys secure your homemade insert
into the opening?


Mine just sits in there on the four 'feet' that protrude into the
opening. You could wrap some tape around the perimieter of your
existing a few times so that when you rout it will be slightly
oversized. Then sand for a snug fit.

RayV wrote:
Bob Mill wrote:
That's kinda was I was thinking, but here's a dumb question. Since
they old insert clipped into the table, but plywood insert isn't going
to be able to do that. How do you guys secure your homemade insert
into the opening?


Mine just sits in there on the four 'feet' that protrude into the
opening. You could wrap some tape around the perimieter of your
existing a few times so that when you rout it will be slightly
oversized. Then sand for a snug fit.

If you're making a zero clearance insert, I'd look for a way to secure
it to the table beyond a friction fit. I'd be afraid of the blade
grabbing the thing and sending it flying.

Have you thought about drilling/tapping a few screw holes in the saw
body below the insert?

On 16 Nov 2006 10:45:08 -0800, "RayV" wrote:


Bob Mill wrote:
That's kinda was I was thinking, but here's a dumb question. Since
they old insert clipped into the table, but plywood insert isn't going
to be able to do that. How do you guys secure your homemade insert
into the opening?


Mine just sits in there on the four 'feet' that protrude into the
opening. You could wrap some tape around the perimieter of your
existing a few times so that when you rout it will be slightly
oversized. Then sand for a snug fit.

In the OP, the OP said he had one of those benchtop saws. The inserts
in those are generally A) very thin (even thinner than my old
Crapsman), and 2) don't have the traditional four 'feet' that the
bigger boys do. A method for securing the insert may need to be a
little more sophisticated than for larger saws.

To answer Bob Mill's question, those of us rolling our own on the big
iron generally put a pin (clipped off nail) at the back of the insert
which slides under the saw table (which is essentially what the OEM
inserts have/do). That holds down the rear. Since all the force on the
front of the insert is from the descending teeth on the front of the
blade, the insert has no inclination to rise at the front.

--
LRod

Master Woodbutcher and seasoned termite

Shamelessly whoring my website since 1999

http://www.woodbutcher.net

Proud participant of rec.woodworking since February, 1997

email addy de-spam-ified due to 1,000 spams per month.
If you can't figure out how to use it, I probably wouldn't
care to correspond with you anyway.

Subject

Make your own using existing insert as a pattern for either a scroll
saw or a router with a pattern bit.

I make mine using 3 layers of nominal 1/4" scrap hardboard held
together with double back tape.

Gives me a finished thickness or about 5/8" which is just what I need.

Have lots of inserts that are basically job specific since they are so
easy to make.

Lew

Bob Mill wrote:

That's kinda was I was thinking, but here's a dumb question. Since
they old insert clipped into the table, but plywood insert isn't going
to be able to do that. How do you guys secure your homemade insert
into the opening?

snip

I don't; however, after placing a blank plate in the opening, move the
fence just over the edge of the insert to hold it down while the blade
is lifted up to cut thru the blank insert.

After that, it is unnecessary to secure the plate.

Gravity does the job.

Lew

A common problem with this group is that nobody seems to really read and
understand many questions.

I too have this saw and I have also wondered how to make my own zero
clearance inserts. The two challenges that I see are the "ears" that fit
into the recesses at the one end plus the fact that the insert can only be
about 1/4" thick due to that rod that pivots with the blade mount.

I haven't done it yet, but I was thinking of using 1/4" baltic birch
plywood, using the existing insert as a template and routing as one person
suggested. That might get an insert of the right shape and thickness to
work. Then for the "ears" I was thinking of using little tabs of 1/4"
baltic birch plywood and glue them and or screw them to the insert in the
right locations and see if that works. Don't forget to drill the two holes
at the front of the insert for the mounting/adjustment screws.

"Bob Mill" wrote in message
oups.com...
That's kinda was I was thinking, but here's a dumb question. Since
they old insert clipped into the table, but plywood insert isn't going
to be able to do that. How do you guys secure your homemade insert
into the opening?

Thanks for all the help.


Bob

C & E wrote:
"Bob Mill" wrote in message
oups.com...
I've had a Craftsman job site table saw for a couple of years now and
have been having a hard time trying to find a zero clearance insert for
it. The inserts that come with it are metal rectangles that hook/latch
into the table top. Here's a link to the saw:
http://www.sears.com/sr/javasr/produ...OL& ihtoken=1

I know this is a long shot, but does anyone have ideas on where I can
find a zero clearance TP for it? Thanks in advance.


Bob


Use some doublesided tape to attach your old plate to piece of high
quality
plywood, use a templae bit in your router and you're in business.

In article .com,
Bob Mill wrote:
That's kinda was I was thinking, but here's a dumb question. Since
they old insert clipped into the table, but plywood insert isn't going
to be able to do that. How do you guys secure your homemade insert
into the opening?


I make mine with a small tab at the back that just slips under the saw
table top when the insert is in place. The blade rotation makes it
unlikely that the insert will raise at the front of the insert. At
least, I've never had any trouble with that. I couldn't get to your
link, does your saw use a sheet metal insert?



..
--
A man who throws dirt loses ground.

Larry Wasserman - Baltimore Maryland -

Yes, the insert(s) that came with the saw are around 1/4" thick.


On Nov 17, 2:59 am, () wrote:
In article .com,

Bob Mill wrote:
That's kinda was I was thinking, but here's a dumb question. Since
they old insert clipped into the table, but plywood insert isn't going
to be able to do that. How do you guys secure your homemade insert
into the opening?I make mine with a small tab at the back that just slips under the saw
table top when the insert is in place. The blade rotation makes it
unlikely that the insert will raise at the front of the insert. At
least, I've never had any trouble with that. I couldn't get to your
link, does your saw use a sheet metal insert?

.
--
A man who throws dirt loses ground.

Larry Wasserman - Baltimore Maryland -

Thanks for all the ideas.

Doug - I'm glad to hear that I'm not alone with this saw. I was
thinking of doing the same thing you were suggesting. However, I was
thinking that I could use picture hooks for the ears. You know those
hooks you can hang on your wall with nail and they have all little hook
for the picture wire? I was thinking on bending the hook straight and
screwing it to the insert.



On Nov 16, 8:35 pm, "Doug Brown" wrote:
A common problem with this group is that nobody seems to really read and
understand many questions.

I too have this saw and I have also wondered how to make my own zero
clearance inserts. The two challenges that I see are the "ears" that fit
into the recesses at the one end plus the fact that the insert can only be
about 1/4" thick due to that rod that pivots with the blade mount.

I haven't done it yet, but I was thinking of using 1/4" baltic birch
plywood, using the existing insert as a template and routing as one person
suggested. That might get an insert of the right shape and thickness to
work. Then for the "ears" I was thinking of using little tabs of 1/4"
baltic birch plywood and glue them and or screw them to the insert in the
right locations and see if that works. Don't forget to drill the two holes
at the front of the insert for the mounting/adjustment screws.

"Bob Mill" wrote in ooglegroups.com...

That's kinda was I was thinking, but here's a dumb question. Since
they old insert clipped into the table, but plywood insert isn't going
to be able to do that. How do you guys secure your homemade insert
into the opening?

Thanks for all the help.

Bob

C & E wrote:
"Bob Mill" wrote in message
groups.com...
I've had a Craftsman job site table saw for a couple of years now and
have been having a hard time trying to find a zero clearance insert for
it. The inserts that come with it are metal rectangles that hook/latch
into the table top. Here's a link to the saw:
http://www.sears.com/sr/javasr/produ...e=Yes&pid=0092...

I know this is a long shot, but does anyone have ideas on where I can
find a zero clearance TP for it? Thanks in advance.

Bob

Use some doublesided tape to attach your old plate to piece of high
quality
plywood, use a templae bit in your router and you're in business.

"Bob Mill" wrote in message
oups.com...
That's kinda was I was thinking, but here's a dumb question. Since
they old insert clipped into the table, but plywood insert isn't going
to be able to do that. How do you guys secure your homemade insert
into the opening?

Go to a hardware store or Lowe's and get a card of the little
adhesive-backed rubber "dots". These are the ones used to cushion cabinet
doors; or you stick them to the bottom of objects to protect table tops
(must be rubber or soft plastic). Stuck to the edge of the insert they
provide just enough friction to keep a fairly well-sized insert in place.

Bob Mill wrote:
How do you guys secure your homemade insert
into the opening?

I put a nail or headless screw into the edge farthest from the operator,
duplicating the tab on my factory inserts.

(4) hex screws let me level the insert in the opening.