I got a Delta 28-475x band saw a little while ago. Since it is winter,
the garage is a little cold so I can't do as much wood working now as I
want to. The question I have is do most people replace the metal table
insert that comes with any bandsaw? The I received doesn't sit flush
with the table top (up a little higher) so I was going to buy a phenolic
one...not only for this reason but to create a zero-clearance insert.
Has anyone used the ZC inserts or had problems with the 'stock' one not
sitting flush with the table top?


Thanks,
Dave

Dave wrote:

I got a Delta 28-475x band saw a little while ago. Since it is winter,
the garage is a little cold so I can't do as much wood working now as I
want to. The question I have is do most people replace the metal table
insert that comes with any bandsaw? The I received doesn't sit flush
with the table top (up a little higher) so I was going to buy a phenolic
one...not only for this reason but to create a zero-clearance insert.
Has anyone used the ZC inserts or had problems with the 'stock' one not
sitting flush with the table top?


Thanks,
Dave

You could (gasp!) MAKE one. g

Dave

"Dave" wrote in message
...
I got a Delta 28-475x band saw a little while ago. Since it is winter,
the garage is a little cold so I can't do as much wood working now as I
want to. The question I have is do most people replace the metal table
insert that comes with any bandsaw? The I received doesn't sit flush
with the table top (up a little higher) so I was going to buy a phenolic
one...not only for this reason but to create a zero-clearance insert.
Has anyone used the ZC inserts or had problems with the 'stock' one not
sitting flush with the table top?


I've had the plastic ones in mine for years. Started with the thought, as
you seem to have, that it would be a zero clearance. Then I found out that
all the dust that used to fall through was now carried back upward. First
time you tilt the table, you'll discover the width you want open in the one
you use all the time. Have a zero available for narrow short work.

If your metal one is pretty good other than the thickness, you can clean the
seat, make sure it doesn't rock, and lap the top.

I made one from plywood with a little replacable hardboard insert. The
original metal insert sat flush but I had an accident; I forgot to retension
the blade it jumped ship and bit into the insert. I could care less about
the insert but it trashed a pricey blade. The other reason was for zero
clearance.

FWIW I shimmed to height with masking tape.

Just make one


"Dave" wrote in message
...
I got a Delta 28-475x band saw a little while ago. Since it is winter,
the garage is a little cold so I can't do as much wood working now as I
want to. The question I have is do most people replace the metal table
insert that comes with any bandsaw? The I received doesn't sit flush
with the table top (up a little higher) so I was going to buy a phenolic
one...not only for this reason but to create a zero-clearance insert.
Has anyone used the ZC inserts or had problems with the 'stock' one not
sitting flush with the table top?


Thanks,
Dave

"George" George@least wrote in message
...

"Dave" wrote in message
...
I got a Delta 28-475x band saw a little while ago. Since it is winter,
the garage is a little cold so I can't do as much wood working now as I
want to. The question I have is do most people replace the metal table
insert that comes with any bandsaw? The I received doesn't sit flush
with the table top (up a little higher) so I was going to buy a phenolic
one...not only for this reason but to create a zero-clearance insert.
Has anyone used the ZC inserts or had problems with the 'stock' one not
sitting flush with the table top?


I've had the plastic ones in mine for years. Started with the thought, as
you seem to have, that it would be a zero clearance. Then I found out
that all the dust that used to fall through was now carried back upward.
First time you tilt the table, you'll discover the width you want open in
the one you use all the time. Have a zero available for narrow short
work.

If your metal one is pretty good other than the thickness, you can clean
the seat, make sure it doesn't rock, and lap the top.

Most of the metal inserts I've seen are light, soft aluminum. They're easy
to level with a belt sander, but after one managed to get snatched away, I
took to wearing gloves to do that job. Turn the sander upside down, of
course. The finest belt grit you have. Check frequently, because the stuff
cuts FAST!

I buffed mine to a mirror like sheen to bring it down to level. Sheen
didn't last long but the buffing wheel cut it quite quickly
"Charles Self" wrote in message
...
"George" George@least wrote in message
...

"Dave" wrote in message
...
I got a Delta 28-475x band saw a little while ago. Since it is winter,
the garage is a little cold so I can't do as much wood working now as I
want to. The question I have is do most people replace the metal table
insert that comes with any bandsaw? The I received doesn't sit flush
with the table top (up a little higher) so I was going to buy a
phenolic
one...not only for this reason but to create a zero-clearance insert.
Has anyone used the ZC inserts or had problems with the 'stock' one not
sitting flush with the table top?


I've had the plastic ones in mine for years. Started with the thought,
as
you seem to have, that it would be a zero clearance. Then I found out
that all the dust that used to fall through was now carried back upward.
First time you tilt the table, you'll discover the width you want open
in
the one you use all the time. Have a zero available for narrow short
work.

If your metal one is pretty good other than the thickness, you can clean
the seat, make sure it doesn't rock, and lap the top.

Most of the metal inserts I've seen are light, soft aluminum. They're easy
to level with a belt sander, but after one managed to get snatched away, I
took to wearing gloves to do that job. Turn the sander upside down, of
course. The finest belt grit you have. Check frequently, because the stuff
cuts FAST!