Or do I come out about even if I just by the premade kit from Home
Depot or Lowe's. A guy at the store said I might save $50.00.
Thanks.

When I had to make the same decsion, I found that they were similar in
price. The difference was speed. We paid for the HD shed, and the guy
built it in a day. It would have taken me several weekends.

--
Rusty Myers
Austin, TX

"jm" wrote in message
om...
Or do I come out about even if I just by the premade kit from Home
Depot or Lowe's. A guy at the store said I might save $50.00.
Thanks.

"jm" wrote in message
om...
Or do I come out about even if I just by the premade kit from Home
Depot or Lowe's. A guy at the store said I might save $50.00.
Thanks.

You would build it to be more sturdy, at the same price, if you built it
yourself. Plus the best reason to build it yourself, is that you built it
yourself. :-)
--
Jim in NC--

Morgans wrote:


"jm" wrote in message
om...
Or do I come out about even if I just by the premade kit from Home
Depot or Lowe's. A guy at the store said I might save $50.00.
Thanks.

You would build it to be more sturdy, at the same price, if you built it
yourself. Plus the best reason to build it yourself, is that you built it
yourself. :-)


You also get to choose better quality materials. I bought a kit this
summer; a lot of the boards were green at the time. Now they're warped.

You probably already have some idea as to the value of your time:
either you have more time or more money available.

A consideration would be what to do to make it durable - like caulking
and painting. A dozen tubes of caulk and a gallon of first-rate paint
($30) would go a long way.

On 21 Aug 2003 04:23:04 -0700, (jm) wrote:

Or do I come out about even if I just by the premade kit from Home
Depot or Lowe's. A guy at the store said I might save $50.00.
Thanks.

In article , Joe Shmoe wrote:
Morgans wrote:


"jm" wrote in message
om...
Or do I come out about even if I just by the premade kit from Home
Depot or Lowe's. A guy at the store said I might save $50.00.
Thanks.

You'll save more than that. My boys and I built a shed two years ago for $950
that would have cost us $1300 to buy from Lowe's, and have a better product.

You would build it to be more sturdy, at the same price, if you built it
yourself. Plus the best reason to build it yourself, is that you built it
yourself. :-)

Yep. And I got an added bonus in having my sons (age 13 and 10 at the time)
help me with it.

You also get to choose better quality materials. I bought a kit this
summer; a lot of the boards were green at the time. Now they're warped.

I used treated plywood for the floor. The kits use standard plywood, and
treated is available as an outrageously overpriced option.

I also hand-picked the 2x4s for studs and rafters. I'm sure I got much better
wood than I would have in a kit.



--
Regards,
Doug Miller (alphageek-at-milmac-dot-com)

On 21 Aug 2003 04:23:04 -0700, (jm) wrote:

Or do I come out about even if I just by the premade kit from Home
Depot or Lowe's. A guy at the store said I might save $50.00.
Thanks.


One advantage you have building it yourself is that you can have
ultimate input in the design, Look at the prebuilt models and pick and
choose what you like about each.

I just did this and came out about even in price. The difference for me was
the quality of materials. I was able to use better materials than they use.
Also, I was able to have a custom design. I could not have used a standard
design for my intended use. I spent about four hours on design and then one
day building the shed. I spent time over several more days painting it.

Brian

jm wrote in message
om...
Or do I come out about even if I just by the premade kit from Home
Depot or Lowe's. A guy at the store said I might save $50.00.
Thanks.

If you do not consider what your time is worth, you can save a bundle. I am
getting ready to build my own and will save about $800 on an 8 by 14 room.

"jm" wrote in message
om...
Or do I come out about even if I just by the premade kit from Home
Depot or Lowe's. A guy at the store said I might save $50.00.
Thanks.

my shed cost more than a pre built (Tuff Shed) but it looks WAY better,
and fits the limited area I had to place it in. It also is painted to
match the house, the roof is very similar to the roof of the house, and
I enjoyed building it from scratch, with all plans contained solely
within my head. I used something called Sturdifloor, IIRC for the
floor, which is super solid. I insulated the ceiling and the walls that
are in the sun. Since it is against a fence and near the house, a lot
of it is pretty much in the shade. In the middle of a hot summer day,
it's cooler in there than my house. oh, yeah, I also installed two
vents at the gable ends for cross ventilation. It has one window, a
metal Stanley door and enough headroom for my 6' 4" self to stand in. I
went at least $400 over predicted cost and mashed one fingernail.
Shortly after I finished, I then bought a framing nailer!

the exterior is tongue and groove exterior siding that I primed with
LOTS of Bin primer and then two coats of Kelly Moore Oyster semi gloss
exterior latex enamel. After 5 years the paint still looks great.

Oh, and rather than run electricity to the shed, I installed a solar
powered light for those after dark visits. Got that at HD for about $65
IIRC.

dave

jm wrote:

Or do I come out about even if I just by the premade kit from Home
Depot or Lowe's. A guy at the store said I might save $50.00.
Thanks.

Do you think the price would have been the same for if you had it built
with the better quality of materials and custom design. Comparing apples to
apples I bet you came out farther ahead than the same price.



"Brian Mahaney" wrote in message
...
I just did this and came out about even in price. The difference for me
was
the quality of materials. I was able to use better materials than they
use.
Also, I was able to have a custom design. I could not have used a
standard
design for my intended use. I spent about four hours on design and then
one
day building the shed. I spent time over several more days painting it.

Brian

jm wrote in message
om...
Or do I come out about even if I just by the premade kit from Home
Depot or Lowe's. A guy at the store said I might save $50.00.
Thanks.

john:

I went through this same problem a couple of years ago. I elected
to build because the local sheds (like TuffShed) were about
$1200 for the size I wanted and the materials for what I
wanted to build were about equal. However, my materials were WAY
better. Ceder siding, T&G ply flooring, etc. Also I had
some friends help which was fun and in the end, I also
justified some of the tools I bought to do the shed.

Would the shed gone up faster if I bought it from a
company? Yes, of course. Would it look better? Not
necessarily and I would have missed out on learning
a lot of carpentry. My time was not in the equation, since
I wrote it off as a learning experience.

I'd say, if you need it soon - buy it, but if you
want to learn and have fun learning - build it yourself!

MJ Wallace

"Brian Mahaney" wrote in message
...
I just did this and came out about even in price. The difference for me
was
the quality of materials. I was able to use better materials than they
use.
Also, I was able to have a custom design. I could not have used a
standard
design for my intended use. I spent about four hours on design and then
one
day building the shed. I spent time over several more days painting it.

Brian

jm wrote in message
om...
Or do I come out about even if I just by the premade kit from Home
Depot or Lowe's. A guy at the store said I might save $50.00.
Thanks.



Where did you get the plans?

What plans and where did you get them? I have found plans that were good on
parts of the shed, but shady on other parts.

For example, I found one where the floor was well explained, but the roof,
which looked complicated to me (but it is an "ordinary" room the upside V
shape; sorry don't know what else to call it - gable?). I don't know how to
cut rafters. It looked hard. Maybe it is. I don't know, but I couldn't
tell what angle to cut them at or how the roof fit on the walls.

"Leon" wrote in message
. ..
If you do not consider what your time is worth, you can save a bundle. I
am
getting ready to build my own and will save about $800 on an 8 by 14 room.

"jm" wrote in message
om...
Or do I come out about even if I just by the premade kit from Home
Depot or Lowe's. A guy at the store said I might save $50.00.
Thanks.

I know I have asked others in this thread, so sorry; maybe I shoud start
another thread, but what plans did you use?


"Phil" wrote in message
...
I did on 10' x 10' and considerably better to boot.

jm wrote:

Or do I come out about even if I just by the premade kit from Home
Depot or Lowe's. A guy at the store said I might save $50.00.
Thanks.

After looking at sheds built locally and the ones in a kit, I ordered plans
for the one I liked and am now building it. I originally wanted a 12X16 with
a gambrel roof, (spelling?) which would have cost me around $1500 to $1800
to be built by one of the companies here.
I opted to change the plans I bought to make it 12X20 (would have cost
$24-$2900 to have built) and figure the costs will be around $1200. Not
counting the cost of the foundation which I built on concrete piers to raise
it 12"-20" above ground level because of potential high water in the back of
my property. The foundation would have cost more if I had that built. I also
bought a nail gun, PC 350RH and a compressor, which I wanted anyway. So to
me I have the enjoyment of building it, the knowledge I gained the extra
tools, and will come out much better than what would have been built for
much more money. My time has been well spent in the project plus the added
company and friendship from a neighbor who has been helping.
C Cole

"jm" wrote in message
om...
Or do I come out about even if I just by the premade kit from Home
Depot or Lowe's. A guy at the store said I might save $50.00.
Thanks.

"jm" writes:
I know I have asked others in this thread, so sorry; maybe I shoud start
another thread, but what plans did you use?



What I did was scope out the sheds at the shed shop, and build one similar.

No plans[*]. 8'x12', stud wall construction 24" o.c. 3/4" T&G floor on 2x8
joists on 24" centers with 2x12 PT frame resting on pre-existing concrete
pad. T1-11 exterior, asphalt shingle roof (using 2x4 rafters). If I were
to do it again, I'd use 1/2" or 3/4" sheathing on the roof rather than
3/8" (which may require beefier rafters) - but we have no snow load to
worry about here. Installed a window on one of the long sides.

As it was to be used for hardwood lumber storage, I doubled up three of the
studs on one long wall, notched them in three places (3/4" x 3.5" notch on facing
sides of the studs) and bolted some short (18") 2x4s in the notches to support
the lumber horizontally.

Total cost about $800 and two weekends vs. the shed shop's $2500.
[*] Well, I drew my own prior to construction and did a full scale
floorplan on the living room carpet using masking tape to test out
the dimensions and usability (door and window locations were constrained
by the location of the shed). Do consider where your T1-11 exterior
sheathing joints will end up vis-a-vis the studs in the studwall. DAMHIKT.

Good excuse to get a framing nailer.

On Thu, 21 Aug 2003 22:09:33 GMT, "jm"
wrote:

For example, I found one where the floor was well explained, but the roof,
which looked complicated to me (but it is an "ordinary" room the upside V
shape; sorry don't know what else to call it - gable?). I don't know how to
cut rafters. It looked hard. Maybe it is. I don't know, but I couldn't
tell what angle to cut them at or how the roof fit on the walls.

Framing the roof (even a simple gable roof) is a bit more complex
than building the walls and ensuring that they are plumb. The problem
is that this will probably be the only roof you ever frame, so the
learning curve is not very useful in the future.

Simple method - go measure an identical shed and replicate that
structure.

Less simple method - watch a professional crew frame a roof on a new
house.

More complex method - purchase a book on roof framing such as "Roof
Framing" by Marshall Gross.

The method basically involves -
1. Install the ridge beam parallel to the centerline of the building
and elevated such that the roof pitch is at least 4/12 so it will
drain. It is temporarily supported at the proper height until the
common rafters are installed to support it from the tops of the walls.
2. Install ceiling joists to hold the tops of the walls in the plumb
position.
3. Cut the common rafters at the proper angle to meet the ridge beam.
Cut the birdsmouth on the other end of the rafter such that it sits
flat on top of the wall with sufficient extension to allow for fascia
board (where guttering would be placed) to be at least 12-24" from the
outside of the walls.
4. Nail all common rafters in place. Remove temporary ridge beam
supports.
5. Install vertical studs in each gable (the triangular areas at each
end of the ridge beam) to support siding to cover these openings.
6. Place roof decking over common rafters beginning at the bottom.
7. Install felt, flashing and shingles or other roofing material.

You will need several 8' stepladders during some of these steps.
Borrow as needed and make sure they are 300# rated.

I drew my own plans up with AutoCad.


"Leon" wrote in message
. ..
If you do not consider what your time is worth, you can save a bundle. I
am
getting ready to build my own and will save about $800 on an 8 by 14 room.

"jm" wrote in message
om...
Or do I come out about even if I just by the premade kit from Home
Depot or Lowe's. A guy at the store said I might save $50.00.
Thanks.

One thing to remember about using T&G plywood for the flooring is that the
T&G will take up about 1/2" from the width for each row. If you put down 3
rows of it, you will be 1 1/2 inch from the width of 12' which you would
expect if you did not know. If you use T-11 siding which overlays on the
edges, it comes out to being the correct width when you put it up. (T-11
siding is wider than 48" to make up the difference,) (T&G plywood is not as
the tongue sets in a 1/2" when butted against the other sheet.) I found out
the hard way and had to cut down the width of the shed by 1 1/2" to get the
proper floor dimensions to work out without having to buy and cut another
row of plywood to get the extra needed. You can't just add an inch and a
half.. but would have to rip the sheets to give a proper width to get it
nailed down. So make sure you measure the plywood you are going to use
before you make your final layout for your base and walls to see that it is
going to be what you think it is.
C Cole


"jm" wrote in message
om...
Or do I come out about even if I just by the premade kit from Home
Depot or Lowe's. A guy at the store said I might save $50.00.
Thanks.

Where did you order the plans from? Which plan?

"C Cole" wrote in message
...
After looking at sheds built locally and the ones in a kit, I ordered
plans
for the one I liked and am now building it. I originally wanted a 12X16
with
a gambrel roof, (spelling?) which would have cost me around $1500 to $1800
to be built by one of the companies here.
I opted to change the plans I bought to make it 12X20 (would have cost
$24-$2900 to have built) and figure the costs will be around $1200. Not
counting the cost of the foundation which I built on concrete piers to
raise
it 12"-20" above ground level because of potential high water in the back
of
my property. The foundation would have cost more if I had that built. I
also
bought a nail gun, PC 350RH and a compressor, which I wanted anyway. So to
me I have the enjoyment of building it, the knowledge I gained the extra
tools, and will come out much better than what would have been built for
much more money. My time has been well spent in the project plus the added
company and friendship from a neighbor who has been helping.
C Cole

"jm" wrote in message
om...
Or do I come out about even if I just by the premade kit from Home
Depot or Lowe's. A guy at the store said I might save $50.00.
Thanks.

I bought a shed a number of years ago for $1400. It's a 10'x12' aluminum
skinned, 2x4 walls & rafters, t&g pt floors, 2x8 foundation, a couple of
windows, pre-wired, and a 48" door. It's made by Robin's Sheds. Best one
I've looked at. Comes with a 20 year warranty. It's half way there now and
still in excellent shape. Completely waterproof and has survived a
hurricane (cat 1) and several tropical storms here in FL. I'd be hard
pressed to make one for significantly less at the same quality. I figure my
time is worth something too.

The best advice I can give about a shed is calculate what size you want,
then add at least another 50%!!! By the time I get my riding mower,
generator, bikes, and camping equipment in there, that sucker is full. No,
I didn't have all that crap when I bought it... which is why I suggest
buying/building a bigger shed than you currently need. :-)

jm wrote:

"Brian Mahaney" wrote in message
...
I just did this and came out about even in price. The difference for me
was
the quality of materials. I was able to use better materials than they
use.
Also, I was able to have a custom design. I could not have used a
standard
design for my intended use. I spent about four hours on design and then
one
day building the shed. I spent time over several more days painting it.

Brian

jm wrote in message
om...
Or do I come out about even if I just by the premade kit from Home
Depot or Lowe's. A guy at the store said I might save $50.00.
Thanks.



Where did you get the plans?

The answer jm is that he said he designed it. You don't
need plans for a simple shed, all you have to do is know
standard construction, and you get that from looking a books
that explain construction. E.g., buildings are designed
around 4 foot increments (or 2 foot increments) so that
everything works together. Studs, rafter, joists on 18 inch
centers (or 24 inch centers). Base plates, top plates,
frames around windows and doors, etc. Roofs are simple, the
only problem is deciding what you want. More problem than
its worth but certainly simple is to just construct roof
trusses instead of using rafters.

Remember, it is only a shed so let yourself go; use plywood
such as T11 and forget standard framing construction and let
the plywood be the major structural member with
reinforcements and triangles where necessary to provide
strength and rigidity. For sizes of 10 by 10 and larger,
though, you should consider 2 x 4 studs.

In article , GeorgeC-
says...


jm wrote:

"Brian Mahaney" wrote in message
...
I just did this and came out about even in price. The difference for me
was
the quality of materials. I was able to use better materials than they
use.
Also, I was able to have a custom design. I could not have used a
standard
design for my intended use. I spent about four hours on design and then
one
day building the shed. I spent time over several more days painting it.

Brian

jm wrote in message
om...
Or do I come out about even if I just by the premade kit from Home
Depot or Lowe's. A guy at the store said I might save $50.00.
Thanks.



Where did you get the plans?

The answer jm is that he said he designed it. You don't
need plans for a simple shed, all you have to do is know
standard construction, and you get that from looking a books
that explain construction. E.g., buildings are designed
around 4 foot increments (or 2 foot increments) so that
everything works together. Studs, rafter, joists on 18 inch

uh, shouldn't that be 16 inch centers?

Thomas Kendrick wrote:

On Thu, 21 Aug 2003 22:09:33 GMT, "jm"
wrote:

For example, I found one where the floor was well explained, but the roof,
which looked complicated to me (but it is an "ordinary" room the upside V
shape; sorry don't know what else to call it - gable?). I don't know how to
cut rafters. It looked hard. Maybe it is. I don't know, but I couldn't
tell what angle to cut them at or how the roof fit on the walls.

Framing the roof (even a simple gable roof) is a bit more complex
than building the walls and ensuring that they are plumb. The problem
is that this will probably be the only roof you ever frame, so the
learning curve is not very useful in the future.

Simple method - go measure an identical shed and replicate that
structure.

Less simple method - watch a professional crew frame a roof on a new
house.

More complex method - purchase a book on roof framing such as "Roof
Framing" by Marshall Gross.

The method basically involves -
1. Install the ridge beam parallel to the centerline of the building
and elevated such that the roof pitch is at least 4/12 so it will
drain. It is temporarily supported at the proper height until the
common rafters are installed to support it from the tops of the walls.
2. Install ceiling joists to hold the tops of the walls in the plumb
position.
3. Cut the common rafters at the proper angle to meet the ridge beam.
Cut the birdsmouth on the other end of the rafter such that it sits
flat on top of the wall with sufficient extension to allow for fascia
board (where guttering would be placed) to be at least 12-24" from the
outside of the walls.
4. Nail all common rafters in place. Remove temporary ridge beam
supports.
5. Install vertical studs in each gable (the triangular areas at each
end of the ridge beam) to support siding to cover these openings.
6. Place roof decking over common rafters beginning at the bottom.
7. Install felt, flashing and shingles or other roofing material.

You will need several 8' stepladders during some of these steps.
Borrow as needed and make sure they are 300# rated.

There is no need for temporary support of the ridge, you
just make it a permanent part of the gable. But the better
way is to build the gable ends on the ground and then lift
into place and nail them on the top plate, then nail up the
ridge. And you don't need to cut rafters at the plate; just
nail into plate and ceiling joist and extend far enough for
an overhang. Then you fill in between each joist/rafter
with a full sized 2x4.

On 21 Aug 2003 04:23:04 -0700, (jm) wrote:

Or do I come out about even if I just by the premade kit from Home
Depot or Lowe's. A guy at the store said I might save $50.00.
Thanks.
But how much is the experience of doing the whole project yourself worth to you?

I waited until I was 46 to overhaul my first engine (100k+ miles later and still
chugs along just fine) and 58 to do my first construction (the shed) and I
wouldn't trade the experiences gained for anything.
I knew only a little of house construction but there were lots of books
available on the subject that helped me out. I drew the plans up on AutoCad to
be very similar to the one it replaced that termites dined upon. I followed
house construction guidelines for the most part, most of the best materials I
could find, was careful, and it is one heck of a lot better built than the house
it sits behind. Sure it took a couple of months off & on of planning, problem
solving & building and I didn't feel too good when my son's friend came by &
told me he & his dad built theirs (twice as big as the one I built) in a couple
of weekends but I am very happy with the results.G
You can find some plans & shed building books at the borg and check your library
as well. You can also try taking measurements off a shed you see that you like
if you know the homeowners. Keep in mind it is only a shed. You can make
mistakes there that are not all that costly to straighten out and don't forget,
you will get a tremendous amount of advice from your neighbors...some of it
good.G
It is a project that, when you are done, you will step back and say "Gee. I wish
I had done that a little differently. Hmm. Maybe on the next one....."
You can't find that in a kit.

Kiyu