I got a call this morning from a friend in the States... He picked up my lathe
at Woodcraft in Sacramento and is on his way down!!

My wife and I spend all day rearranging the shop...
Put a lot of non-shop stuff away, made other stuff more compact, even turned her
"break area" into a work station for her wood burning..

The ol' Jet is 4 feet closer to a wall now and there's a huge open space near a
220v outlet for the Nova XP..
Life is GOOD!


mac

Please remove splinters before emailing

mac davis wrote:
I got a call this morning from a friend in the States... He picked up my lathe
at Woodcraft in Sacramento and is on his way down!!

My wife and I spend all day rearranging the shop...
Put a lot of non-shop stuff away, made other stuff more compact, even turned her
"break area" into a work station for her wood burning..

The ol' Jet is 4 feet closer to a wall now and there's a huge open space near a
220v outlet for the Nova XP..
Life is GOOD!


mac

Please remove splinters before emailing

I'm jealous. Mine is only 120v. Today I roughed out a 15 inch Bradford
Pear bowl on it. The hardest part was cutting the circle on my
bandsaw--it must have weighed 50 pounds.

Congratulations. Did you get the cast Iron stand?

--
Gerald Ross
Cochran, GA

When you don't know what you're doing,
do it neatly.

On Mon, 28 Jan 2008 19:44:44 -0500, Gerald Ross wrote:

mac davis wrote:
I got a call this morning from a friend in the States... He picked up my lathe
at Woodcraft in Sacramento and is on his way down!!

My wife and I spend all day rearranging the shop...
Put a lot of non-shop stuff away, made other stuff more compact, even turned her
"break area" into a work station for her wood burning..

The ol' Jet is 4 feet closer to a wall now and there's a huge open space near a
220v outlet for the Nova XP..
Life is GOOD!


mac

Please remove splinters before emailing

I'm jealous. Mine is only 120v. Today I roughed out a 15 inch Bradford
Pear bowl on it. The hardest part was cutting the circle on my
bandsaw--it must have weighed 50 pounds.

Congratulations. Did you get the cast Iron stand?

Nope... hassled with them for 2 weeks and gave in..
Woodcraft said that they could order the "universal" stand but that if I really
wanted the cast iron legs, I'd have to order them factory direct...

If the stand really sucks, I'll order the leg set..


mac

Please remove splinters before emailing

"mac davis" wrote in message
...
I got a call this morning from a friend in the States... He picked up my
lathe
at Woodcraft in Sacramento and is on his way down!!

My wife and I spend all day rearranging the shop...
Put a lot of non-shop stuff away, made other stuff more compact, even
turned her
"break area" into a work station for her wood burning..

The ol' Jet is 4 feet closer to a wall now and there's a huge open space
near a
220v outlet for the Nova XP..
Life is GOOD!


mac

Please remove splinters before emailing

Enjoy !

Congrats Mac!

I'm sure you will turning the spindles off that thing in short order.
Nothing like getting a new tool you are really looking forward to
using.

Robert

"mac davis" wrote in message
...
I got a call this morning from a friend in the States... He picked up my
lathe
at Woodcraft in Sacramento and is on his way down!!

My wife and I spend all day rearranging the shop...
Put a lot of non-shop stuff away, made other stuff more compact, even
turned her
"break area" into a work station for her wood burning..

The ol' Jet is 4 feet closer to a wall now and there's a huge open space
near a
220v outlet for the Nova XP..
Life is GOOD!


You won't need to have both ends open for work with this one. The factory
stand is double-splayed, though, and will have a pretty big footprint.
Bernie made his tin stand more rigide by plywooding. Might want to take a
look. http://groups.msn.com/NovaOwners/

I built my stand to minimize footprint and maximize stability. Got your
chuck adapters in the shipment?

mac davis wrote:
On Mon, 28 Jan 2008 19:44:44 -0500, Gerald Ross wrote:

mac davis wrote:
I got a call this morning from a friend in the States... He picked up my lathe
at Woodcraft in Sacramento and is on his way down!!

My wife and I spend all day rearranging the shop...
Put a lot of non-shop stuff away, made other stuff more compact, even turned her
"break area" into a work station for her wood burning..

The ol' Jet is 4 feet closer to a wall now and there's a huge open space near a
220v outlet for the Nova XP..
Life is GOOD!


mac

Please remove splinters before emailing

I'm jealous. Mine is only 120v. Today I roughed out a 15 inch Bradford
Pear bowl on it. The hardest part was cutting the circle on my
bandsaw--it must have weighed 50 pounds.

Congratulations. Did you get the cast Iron stand?

Nope... hassled with them for 2 weeks and gave in..
Woodcraft said that they could order the "universal" stand but that if I really
wanted the cast iron legs, I'd have to order them factory direct...

If the stand really sucks, I'll order the leg set..


mac
If I had known or noticed how it catches shavings I would have set the
base on the stand and marked where the cross-pieces are between the
ways then cut out holes in the top of the stand so shavings could fall
through. They really pile up and it's either scrap your knuckles
digging them out or use the vacuum.

That's my biggest complaint. They didn't have the cast iron legs when
I got mine.

It's still a thrill to turn that baby on and hear it hum.

Gerald Ross
Cochran, GA

When you don't know what you're doing,
do it neatly.

On Tue, 29 Jan 2008 01:25:55 -0800 (PST), "
wrote:

Congrats Mac!

I'm sure you will turning the spindles off that thing in short order.
Nothing like getting a new tool you are really looking forward to
using.

Robert
Thanks.. it seems like a really nice lathe.. very smooth and quiet..
I thought that I had my Jet 1442 tuned pretty well and had little or no
vibration.. Then I turned the Nova on last night and realized how my Jet
practically jumps around compared to the new one..

Just spent MORE money this morning, though..
I knew I'd need adapters for the larger spindle size, but thought that I'd be
able to use my tool rest assortment from the Jet.. NOPE.. the posts are at least
an inch too short..


mac

Please remove splinters before emailing

On Tue, 29 Jan 2008 11:02:00 GMT, "George" wrote:

You won't need to have both ends open for work with this one. The factory
stand is double-splayed, though, and will have a pretty big footprint.
Bernie made his tin stand more rigide by plywooding. Might want to take a
look. http://groups.msn.com/NovaOwners/

I built my stand to minimize footprint and maximize stability. Got your
chuck adapters in the shipment?

The stand is HUGE.. I think they might have sent one for extended bed or
something..
The stance is the same or less than the iron legs on the Jet, but it's 2 feet
longer than the lathe...
It does seem very stable, though.. something that I wasn't expecting..

I got the spindle adapter a week ago..lol



mac

Please remove splinters before emailing

On Tue, 29 Jan 2008 06:25:11 -0500, Gerald Ross wrote:

If I had known or noticed how it catches shavings I would have set the
base on the stand and marked where the cross-pieces are between the
ways then cut out holes in the top of the stand so shavings could fall
through. They really pile up and it's either scrap your knuckles
digging them out or use the vacuum.

That's my biggest complaint. They didn't have the cast iron legs when
I got mine.

It's still a thrill to turn that baby on and hear it hum.

I'm thinking of shimming the lathe an inch or so higher on the stand, to get
chip clearance and raise the spindle height a little... It's over an inch lower
than the spindle of my 14" jet..

I know the better way would be to put 2x4's across the stand ends, but I'm
thinking about the chips collecting..

BTW.. it still starts at a default 500 rpm, but the readout tells you that it
will.. lol
What a damn nag.. tells you to wear your face shield every time you turn it
on...


mac

Please remove splinters before emailing

"mac davis" wrote in message
news
On Tue, 29 Jan 2008 01:25:55 -0800 (PST), "
wrote:

Congrats Mac!

I'm sure you will turning the spindles off that thing in short order.
Nothing like getting a new tool you are really looking forward to
using.

Robert
Thanks.. it seems like a really nice lathe.. very smooth and quiet..
I thought that I had my Jet 1442 tuned pretty well and had little or no
vibration.. Then I turned the Nova on last night and realized how my Jet
practically jumps around compared to the new one..

Just spent MORE money this morning, though..
I knew I'd need adapters for the larger spindle size, but thought that I'd
be
able to use my tool rest assortment from the Jet.. NOPE.. the posts are at
least
an inch too short..


The standard rest has to be one of the best I've used, and the offset post
on the banjo is something you won't have to learn to love, it'll put a smile
on your face every time you snug up to the turning.

I have the short rest, and it's nice when you're doing something less than
10" long. All I added was a longer 1" post for my iron curved rest.
Ol'Blue had a taller banjo.

You may find yourself in a dilemma if you plan on using both lathes, because
the grind angles for your JET won't be the optimum for the new rests. I
shortened up my bevels to a more "Irish" grind within weeks of transitioning
to the 3000 to take advantage of the flat top. Took some nose off of my
forged gouges, too.

On Tue, 29 Jan 2008 18:28:32 GMT, "George" wrote:


The standard rest has to be one of the best I've used, and the offset post
on the banjo is something you won't have to learn to love, it'll put a smile
on your face every time you snug up to the turning.

The Jet has an offset, also...
It took me a while to figure out why the banjo was so LONG.. until I was
hollowing out a little box this morning and realized that you can swivel the
head to 45 degrees and still use the standard rest..

My only bitch so far is that the height lock for the tool rest can only be used
from one position.. I took advantage of the jet's 3 threaded holes to move the
locking lever to the side..
Not a big thing, but I find myself hitting the banjo lock when I'm adjusting the
rest height..

I have the short rest, and it's nice when you're doing something less than
10" long. All I added was a longer 1" post for my iron curved rest.
Ol'Blue had a taller banjo.

I ordered several rests from Woodcraft this morning: 4" & 6" straight, small and
large bowl curves and 2 posts..
Gotta be set up for bowls AND pens..

You may find yourself in a dilemma if you plan on using both lathes, because
the grind angles for your JET won't be the optimum for the new rests. I
shortened up my bevels to a more "Irish" grind within weeks of transitioning
to the 3000 to take advantage of the flat top. Took some nose off of my
forged gouges, too.

Most of the rests that I use/used on the jet were flat top.. a nice (Delta)
French curve, a 4" flat top rest and a box scraper rest..
None of those fit the Nova, since they either came with shorter posts or I
*damn* cut an inch or so OFF the posts to make them fit..

Unless I have "turning company", I'm planning on using the Jet mostly for
buffing.. I may do some spindle turning on it if the Nova won't handle it..
I don't think I've ever turned anything more than 24", though..


mac

Please remove splinters before emailing

mac davis wrote:
On Tue, 29 Jan 2008 06:25:11 -0500, Gerald Ross wrote:

If I had known or noticed how it catches shavings I would have set the
base on the stand and marked where the cross-pieces are between the
ways then cut out holes in the top of the stand so shavings could fall
through. They really pile up and it's either scrap your knuckles
digging them out or use the vacuum.

That's my biggest complaint. They didn't have the cast iron legs when
I got mine.

It's still a thrill to turn that baby on and hear it hum.

I'm thinking of shimming the lathe an inch or so higher on the stand, to get
chip clearance and raise the spindle height a little... It's over an inch lower
than the spindle of my 14" jet..

I know the better way would be to put 2x4's across the stand ends, but I'm
thinking about the chips collecting..

BTW.. it still starts at a default 500 rpm, but the readout tells you that it
will.. lol
What a damn nag.. tells you to wear your face shield every time you turn it
on...


mac

Please remove splinters before emailing

It starts at the second setting. I changed that setting to 450 and the
lower setting to 200, because I found myself changing down for
sanding. So far I have not had the mojo to turn anything at the
highest speed but I have been turning some Christmas tree ornaments at
2500. To me that is really humming. I do not keep the set screw in the
chuck. It stays in a baggie with the allen wrench hanging on a nail. I
only put it in when I know I'm gonna do some reverse sanding. I forgot
to loosen it enough and wound up filing the last thread where I munged
it up.

--
Gerald Ross
Cochran, GA

When you don't know what you're doing,
do it neatly.

mac davis wrote:
On Tue, 29 Jan 2008 11:02:00 GMT, "George" wrote:

You won't need to have both ends open for work with this one. The factory
stand is double-splayed, though, and will have a pretty big footprint.
Bernie made his tin stand more rigide by plywooding. Might want to take a
look. http://groups.msn.com/NovaOwners/

I built my stand to minimize footprint and maximize stability. Got your
chuck adapters in the shipment?

The stand is HUGE.. I think they might have sent one for extended bed or
something..
The stance is the same or less than the iron legs on the Jet, but it's 2 feet
longer than the lathe...
It does seem very stable, though.. something that I wasn't expecting..

I got the spindle adapter a week ago..lol



mac

Please remove splinters before emailing
I got the bed extension. It lets me slide the tailstock way down out
of the way when it is not needed.

--
Gerald Ross
Cochran, GA

When you don't know what you're doing,
do it neatly.

Sounds good Mac. We want to see some stuff soon. If you want, send me pics
and I will put them on a separate page.

--
God bless and safe turning
Darrell Feltmate
Truro, NS Canada
http://aroundthewoods.com
http://roundopinions.blogspot.com
"mac davis" wrote in message
...
On Tue, 29 Jan 2008 18:28:32 GMT, "George" wrote:


The standard rest has to be one of the best I've used, and the offset post
on the banjo is something you won't have to learn to love, it'll put a
smile
on your face every time you snug up to the turning.

The Jet has an offset, also...
It took me a while to figure out why the banjo was so LONG.. until I was
hollowing out a little box this morning and realized that you can swivel
the
head to 45 degrees and still use the standard rest..

My only bitch so far is that the height lock for the tool rest can only be
used
from one position.. I took advantage of the jet's 3 threaded holes to move
the
locking lever to the side..
Not a big thing, but I find myself hitting the banjo lock when I'm
adjusting the
rest height..

I have the short rest, and it's nice when you're doing something less than
10" long. All I added was a longer 1" post for my iron curved rest.
Ol'Blue had a taller banjo.

I ordered several rests from Woodcraft this morning: 4" & 6" straight,
small and
large bowl curves and 2 posts..
Gotta be set up for bowls AND pens..

You may find yourself in a dilemma if you plan on using both lathes,
because
the grind angles for your JET won't be the optimum for the new rests. I
shortened up my bevels to a more "Irish" grind within weeks of
transitioning
to the 3000 to take advantage of the flat top. Took some nose off of my
forged gouges, too.

Most of the rests that I use/used on the jet were flat top.. a nice
(Delta)
French curve, a 4" flat top rest and a box scraper rest..
None of those fit the Nova, since they either came with shorter posts or I
*damn* cut an inch or so OFF the posts to make them fit..

Unless I have "turning company", I'm planning on using the Jet mostly for
buffing.. I may do some spindle turning on it if the Nova won't handle
it..
I don't think I've ever turned anything more than 24", though..


mac

Please remove splinters before emailing

On Jan 28, 4:25 pm, mac davis wrote:
I got a call this morning from a friend in the States... He picked up my lathe
at Woodcraft in Sacramento and is on his way down!!

My wife and I spend all day rearranging the shop...
Put a lot of non-shop stuff away, made other stuff more compact, even turned her
"break area" into a work station for her wood burning..

The ol' Jet is 4 feet closer to a wall now and there's a huge open space near a
220v outlet for the Nova XP..
Life is GOOD!

mac

Please remove splinters before emailing


Congratulations Mac,

I've used Teknatool lathes and chucks for many years. When I got my
Nova 3000 several years ago, I mounted on the stand that I was using
for my Record CL-3 lathe. The mounting was a 2"x12" flat board.
Cleaning out the chips under the bed was a pita. When I built the
actual stand for the Nova 3000, I used two 2" x 6" boards for the top
of the base. They were spaced apart about 2" so that the shavings
could fall through the lathe bed and right on down below. I keep a box
top under the opening to catch most of the shavings. My whole stand is
built of 2" x 6" boards, making the legs approximately 5" square as
they touch the floor. It has a box built in about a foot off the floor
that I filled with railroad spikes that I had. The stand is solid and
the lathe never even sways. When I got my DVR it simply replaced the
Nova 3000, an extension was necessary because I also ordered a bed
extension with the new lathe. I've never been sorry. That lets me get
the tailstock out of the way when turning on a faceplate or a chuck.

Good luck with the new lathe. I think you will love it.

Fred Holder
http://www.fholder.com

On Tue, 29 Jan 2008 17:13:04 -0500, Gerald Ross wrote:

It starts at the second setting. I changed that setting to 450 and the
lower setting to 200, because I found myself changing down for
sanding. So far I have not had the mojo to turn anything at the
highest speed but I have been turning some Christmas tree ornaments at
2500. To me that is really humming. I do not keep the set screw in the
chuck. It stays in a baggie with the allen wrench hanging on a nail. I
only put it in when I know I'm gonna do some reverse sanding. I forgot
to loosen it enough and wound up filing the last thread where I munged
it up.

I decided that 500 was ok, and if I wanted less speed at startup, I could go to
#1 before starting.. The lathes that I'm used to had bottom speeds of 450 &
500..

I changed the last 3 presets to 750, 1,500 & 2,100 for pens and buffing..

The vacuum setup is very strange... a bearing on a tube that just slides into
the handwheel and a hose slides onto that??
I'm sure used to way more exotic setups! lol


mac

Please remove splinters before emailing

On Tue, 29 Jan 2008 17:16:54 -0500, Gerald Ross wrote:

I got the bed extension. It lets me slide the tailstock way down out
of the way when it is not needed.

For the price of the bed extension, I'll work at 45 degrees or move it off the
lathe..lol

I just got an email from Teknatool saying that the 220 conversion is the same
jumper as on the 3000 dvr..


mac

Please remove splinters before emailing

On Tue, 29 Jan 2008 22:37:29 GMT, "Darrell Feltmate"
wrote:

Sounds good Mac. We want to see some stuff soon. If you want, send me pics
and I will put them on a separate page.

Well, I have a few hundred pictures so far, Darrell.. I just have to work on my
damn gallery..
Turnings a lot more fun than web work and product photography,,lol


mac

Please remove splinters before emailing

On Tue, 29 Jan 2008 16:00:47 -0800 (PST), Fred Holder
wrote:

Congratulations Mac,
Thank you, Sir..

I've used Teknatool lathes and chucks for many years. When I got my
Nova 3000 several years ago, I mounted on the stand that I was using
for my Record CL-3 lathe. The mounting was a 2"x12" flat board.
Cleaning out the chips under the bed was a pita. When I built the
actual stand for the Nova 3000, I used two 2" x 6" boards for the top
of the base. They were spaced apart about 2" so that the shavings
could fall through the lathe bed and right on down below.

Yep.. that's how my Jet 1442 is.. falls through the rails instead of building up
between them..

I keep a box top under the opening to catch most of the shavings.

yep.lol My system is 2 banker's box lids on the top shelf, about 3" under the
rails..

My whole stand is built of 2" x 6" boards, making the legs approximately 5" square as
they touch the floor. It has a box built in about a foot off the floor
that I filled with railroad spikes that I had. The stand is solid and
the lathe never even sways. When I got my DVR it simply replaced the
Nova 3000, an extension was necessary because I also ordered a bed
extension with the new lathe. I've never been sorry. That lets me get
the tailstock out of the way when turning on a faceplate or a chuck.

SO far, I've only bumped my arm on the tailstock once.. then I realized that the
xp tool rest works well with the headstock at 45 degrees, so I don't think it
will be a problem..
I really don't need a long bed..

Good luck with the new lathe. I think you will love it.


mac

Please remove splinters before emailing

mac davis wrote:
On Tue, 29 Jan 2008 17:13:04 -0500, Gerald Ross wrote:

It starts at the second setting. I changed that setting to 450 and the
lower setting to 200, because I found myself changing down for
sanding. So far I have not had the mojo to turn anything at the
highest speed but I have been turning some Christmas tree ornaments at
2500. To me that is really humming. I do not keep the set screw in the
chuck. It stays in a baggie with the allen wrench hanging on a nail. I
only put it in when I know I'm gonna do some reverse sanding. I forgot
to loosen it enough and wound up filing the last thread where I munged
it up.

I decided that 500 was ok, and if I wanted less speed at startup, I could go to
#1 before starting.. The lathes that I'm used to had bottom speeds of 450 &
500..

I changed the last 3 presets to 750, 1,500 & 2,100 for pens and buffing..

The vacuum setup is very strange... a bearing on a tube that just slides into
the handwheel and a hose slides onto that??
I'm sure used to way more exotic setups! lol


mac

Please remove splinters before emailing

It is made for a vacuum cleaner hookup. I took a male quick connect
and ground off the threads enough that it would fit inside, then
epoxied it in place. Very quick hookup to the vacuum pump. I mounted
the switch for the vacuum pump in a metal box with a strong magnet
glued to the back. This sits on the back of the headstock in easy
reach. The vacuum gauge sticks on the front over the digital readout,
again, with a magnet.

--
Gerald Ross
Cochran, GA

When you do a good deed, get a
receipt, in case heaven is like the IRS.

On Tue, 29 Jan 2008 20:34:58 -0500, Gerald Ross wrote:

The vacuum setup is very strange... a bearing on a tube that just slides into
the handwheel and a hose slides onto that??
I'm sure used to way more exotic setups! lol


It is made for a vacuum cleaner hookup. I took a male quick connect
and ground off the threads enough that it would fit inside, then
epoxied it in place. Very quick hookup to the vacuum pump. I mounted
the switch for the vacuum pump in a metal box with a strong magnet
glued to the back. This sits on the back of the headstock in easy
reach. The vacuum gauge sticks on the front over the digital readout,
again, with a magnet.

I wondered about that, but like no vacuum cleaner nozzle that I've seen...
I Mickey Moused it for now... I found a couple of old hoses from the wife's POS
power painter and the outside OD of the hose is a pretty good match with the
inside of the vac connector..
I got lucky on the other end, too.. the inside OD of the hose just fits on the
barb fitting that I was using in my shop-built rotary valve..lol


mac

Please remove splinters before emailing

On Tue, 29 Jan 2008 20:06:51 -0600, Steve Russell
wrote:

Hello Mac,

Congrats on getting your new baby! Let us know how you get on and what
you're turning... Best of luck to you!

Thanks, Steve...
I see already that I'm going to have a LOT of questions...

Do you ever use the "soft" or "hard" settings?


mac

Please remove splinters before emailing

In article ,
mac davis wrote:

On Tue, 29 Jan 2008 20:34:58 -0500, Gerald Ross wrote:

The vacuum setup is very strange... a bearing on a tube that just slides
into
the handwheel and a hose slides onto that??
I'm sure used to way more exotic setups! lol


It is made for a vacuum cleaner hookup. I took a male quick connect
and ground off the threads enough that it would fit inside, then
epoxied it in place. Very quick hookup to the vacuum pump. I mounted
the switch for the vacuum pump in a metal box with a strong magnet
glued to the back. This sits on the back of the headstock in easy
reach. The vacuum gauge sticks on the front over the digital readout,
again, with a magnet.

I wondered about that, but like no vacuum cleaner nozzle that I've seen...
I Mickey Moused it for now... I found a couple of old hoses from the wife's
POS
power painter and the outside OD of the hose is a pretty good match with the
inside of the vac connector..
I got lucky on the other end, too.. the inside OD of the hose just fits on
the
barb fitting that I was using in my shop-built rotary valve..lol


mac

Please remove splinters before emailing

I used a piece of clear-flex hose I bought from a hardware store to run
from the adapter to the vacuum

--
--------------------------------------------------------
Personal e-mail is the n7bsn but at amsat.org
This posting address is a spam-trap and seldom read
RV and Camping FAQ can be found at
http://www.ralphandellen.us/rv

In article ,
mac davis wrote:

On Tue, 29 Jan 2008 20:06:51 -0600, Steve Russell

wrote:

Hello Mac,

Congrats on getting your new baby! Let us know how you get on and what
you're turning... Best of luck to you!

Thanks, Steve...
I see already that I'm going to have a LOT of questions...

Do you ever use the "soft" or "hard" settings?

I haven't, but Steve (with the 1 year of Demo's he did) may have used
them

--
--------------------------------------------------------
Personal e-mail is the n7bsn but at amsat.org
This posting address is a spam-trap and seldom read
RV and Camping FAQ can be found at
http://www.ralphandellen.us/rv

On Thu, 31 Jan 2008 05:23:06 -0800, Ralph E Lindberg wrote:


I wondered about that, but like no vacuum cleaner nozzle that I've seen...
I Mickey Moused it for now... I found a couple of old hoses from the wife's
POS power painter and the outside OD of the hose is a pretty good match with the
inside of the vac connector..
I got lucky on the other end, too.. the inside OD of the hose just fits on
the barb fitting that I was using in my shop-built rotary valve..lol


I used a piece of clear-flex hose I bought from a hardware store to run from the adapter to the vacuum

A vacuum pump or shop vac, Ralph?


mac

Please remove splinters before emailing

On Thu, 31 Jan 2008 05:23:44 -0800, Ralph E Lindberg wrote:

In article ,
mac davis wrote:

On Tue, 29 Jan 2008 20:06:51 -0600, Steve Russell

wrote:

Hello Mac,

Congrats on getting your new baby! Let us know how you get on and what
you're turning... Best of luck to you!

Thanks, Steve...
I see already that I'm going to have a LOT of questions...

Do you ever use the "soft" or "hard" settings?

I haven't, but Steve (with the 1 year of Demo's he did) may have used
them

I used the "hard" setting this morning on a log mounted for a wing bowl..
Figured that since I was starting at about 300 rpm that I'd try it..

No difference that I could tell, but I wasn't really watching the tachometer..


mac

Please remove splinters before emailing

"mac davis" wrote in message
...

I used the "hard" setting this morning on a log mounted for a wing bowl..
Figured that since I was starting at about 300 rpm that I'd try it..

No difference that I could tell, but I wasn't really watching the
tachometer..


Where you'll want soft start is with soft, wet wood. Puts less starting
shock on the hold. With dry, dense stuff, probably not a hill of beans.

If you get a bidirectional pin chuck it's a real good idea to start soft so
the shock doesn't embed the roll pin in the wood. Enough hard starts and
you can lose your wedge hold. I still start the heavy stuff spinning by
hand out of habit even though I've got a unidirectional pin chuck with
superior holding power now. The 3000 doesn't offer soft start.

Would also make a difference if you're using a crush hold on a piece that's
waaay out of balance, whether by intent or accident. If you've divided the
force over a broad area, and secured a shoulder or mortise bottom to the
front of the jaws to resist tilt, probably not much difference either.

On Thu, 31 Jan 2008 21:03:54 GMT, "George" wrote:

It's not soft start, George.. it's the sensor setting for catches and rpm loss..
The computer is supposed to constantly monitor the spindle and if it detects a
catch, stop the motor within 1 revolution..
Also, if you're a "poker, not a peeler", the computer senses heavy chisel or
sanding action and adds power to maintain rpm's..
From what I understand of the manual, at low speeds the chisel movement is
faster than the spindle speed, so besides normal mode, there's "soft" for light
work under 500 rpm and "hard" for heavy or unbalanced pieces under 500 rpm..

I'm guessing that if you were roughing out something like a wing bowl at 200 or
300 rpm and were in Normal mode, the computer would be more likely to think you
had a catch and stop the motor..

BTW.. as to soft start, I like the ability to start the lathe at 100 (my lowest
preset) and see how it spins before choosing another speed..
I never thought I'd like digital this much...

"mac davis" wrote in message
.. .

I used the "hard" setting this morning on a log mounted for a wing bowl..
Figured that since I was starting at about 300 rpm that I'd try it..

No difference that I could tell, but I wasn't really watching the
tachometer..


Where you'll want soft start is with soft, wet wood. Puts less starting
shock on the hold. With dry, dense stuff, probably not a hill of beans.

If you get a bidirectional pin chuck it's a real good idea to start soft so
the shock doesn't embed the roll pin in the wood. Enough hard starts and
you can lose your wedge hold. I still start the heavy stuff spinning by
hand out of habit even though I've got a unidirectional pin chuck with
superior holding power now. The 3000 doesn't offer soft start.

Would also make a difference if you're using a crush hold on a piece that's
waaay out of balance, whether by intent or accident. If you've divided the
force over a broad area, and secured a shoulder or mortise bottom to the
front of the jaws to resist tilt, probably not much difference either.


mac

Please remove splinters before emailing

"mac davis" wrote in message
...
On Thu, 31 Jan 2008 21:03:54 GMT, "George" wrote:

It's not soft start, George.. it's the sensor setting for catches and rpm
loss..
The computer is supposed to constantly monitor the spindle and if it
detects a
catch, stop the motor within 1 revolution..

Ah, the equivalent of lower belt tension for we conventional guys, eh? Here
I figured they'd finally put something into those digital gizmos that meant
something. Soft start would sure be nice, and probably wouldn't involve
more than a buck three fifty of electronics. Believe it is out there on
other lathes. Still remember my amazement when I got my first electronic
router. I had the death grip on the handle to keep it from jumping, and ...
nothing. Should have seen the smile on my face.

Get that tail center engaged before spinning the wings and other out-of
balance pieces to prevent flop then. And if you're trying to avoid scarring
from your hold, consider a hand spin to get going.

In article ,
mac davis wrote:

On Thu, 31 Jan 2008 05:23:06 -0800, Ralph E Lindberg
wrote:


I wondered about that, but like no vacuum cleaner nozzle that I've seen...
I Mickey Moused it for now... I found a couple of old hoses from the
wife's
POS power painter and the outside OD of the hose is a pretty good match
with the
inside of the vac connector..
I got lucky on the other end, too.. the inside OD of the hose just fits on
the barb fitting that I was using in my shop-built rotary valve..lol


I used a piece of clear-flex hose I bought from a hardware store to run from
the adapter to the vacuum

A vacuum pump or shop vac, Ralph?


mac

Please remove splinters before emailing

Shop Vac, the hose (`1inch) fit the adapter like a glove

--
--------------------------------------------------------
Personal e-mail is the n7bsn but at amsat.org
This posting address is a spam-trap and seldom read
RV and Camping FAQ can be found at
http://www.ralphandellen.us/rv

On Fri, 01 Feb 2008 11:01:12 GMT, "George" wrote:

Ah, the equivalent of lower belt tension for we conventional guys, eh?

Not really, but I would of liked to have that ability with my jet with Reeves
drive..
This doesn't spin the belt (which it doesn't have) it stops the lathe..
Here I figured they'd finally put something into those digital gizmos that meant
something. Soft start would sure be nice, and probably wouldn't involve
more than a buck three fifty of electronics. Believe it is out there on
other lathes. Still remember my amazement when I got my first electronic
router. I had the death grip on the handle to keep it from jumping, and ...
nothing. Should have seen the smile on my face.

It might have soft start, for all I know.. I'm a computer consultant and don't
understand some of the manual.. You can set power curves, coefficient and a
bunch of other things that I'd probably screw up the machine trying to do..

Get that tail center engaged before spinning the wings and other out-of
balance pieces to prevent flop then. And if you're trying to avoid scarring
from your hold, consider a hand spin to get going.

Well, starting at 100 rpm is pretty low drama, but I use the tailstock whenever
I can.. Not only safer but easier on the lathe's bearings..


mac

Please remove splinters before emailing

On Fri, 01 Feb 2008 08:22:30 -0600, Steve Russell
wrote:

Hello Mac,

I used both the 110V and 220V models for two show seasons. Most of my demos
were on the 110V for the first season, 220V for the second season. I never
changed the electronics as they came from the manufacturer, so I can't say
for sure which setting I was using. I would guess it was the soft though...

Probably Normal, Steve.. factory default..

The lathes were great and worked very well. I would have no problems
recommending one to a turner. Since I'm from Texas, I would opt for the 220V
model for the extra power, but the 110V worked very good as well. Take care
and all the best to you and yours!

Same model now, the XP.. just a jumper change and plug it into 220v.. and add
1/4 HP, supposedly..
I don't think I "need" 2 hp, but I try to run as many machines on 220 as I can
to ease the load on the 110 circuits..


mac

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On Fri, 01 Feb 2008 07:42:21 -0800, Ralph E Lindberg wrote:

I used a piece of clear-flex hose I bought from a hardware store to run from
the adapter to the vacuum

A vacuum pump or shop vac, Ralph?


Shop Vac, the hose (`1inch) fit the adapter like a glove

ahh... I still have my Sears shop vac and don't think I could put up with
hearing that for long periods.. lol

I bought a used Gast vac pump from Bill Noble a few years ago and love it..


mac

Please remove splinters before emailing

"mac davis" wrote in message
...

.. just a jumper change and plug it into 220v.. and add
1/4 HP, supposedly..

That's a myth.

In article ,
"CW" wrote:

"mac davis" wrote in message
...

.. just a jumper change and plug it into 220v.. and add
1/4 HP, supposedly..

That's a myth.

Or not.... See Teknatool's own comments
http://www.teknatool.com/products/La...a%20_DVRXP.htm

--
--------------------------------------------------------
Personal e-mail is the n7bsn but at amsat.org
This posting address is a spam-trap and seldom read
RV and Camping FAQ can be found at
http://www.ralphandellen.us/rv

In message , Ralph E
Lindberg writes
In article ,
"CW" wrote:

"mac davis" wrote in message
...

.. just a jumper change and plug it into 220v.. and add
1/4 HP, supposedly..

That's a myth.

Or not.... See Teknatool's own comments
http://www.teknatool.com/products/La...a%20_DVRXP.htm

OK without going into a deep explanation, a simple basic explanation. (
and remember its been over 25 years since I learnt this, so I have
probably muddled it quite a bit )

Wire resistance produces a volt drop over a known length of wire. Wires
have limited current carrying capability (hence fuses), but not
voltage.

This is why overhead power lines carry power at say 400000 volts to
allow for volt drop If they carried 220Volt there would be arguably 1
Volt if your lucky by the time it gets to your house, so not much power
on a 100A fuse

Automotive systems use 12V but in the past some used 6V, the power
rating for a Battery on a 12V system is double that of a 6volt system
but no change in physical size. Hence why they are researching higher
voltage 72V systems, more power same space (all this onboard
electronics)

Now assume 30 volts were lost in the lathe motor due to volt drop
starting with 110 will give 80 but starting with 220 will give 190 190
is 2x80

so for 1amp using VxI 80x1 = 80W 190x1=190W

I know this is a very basic, but hopefully this simple explanation will
point you in the right direction
--
John

On Fri, 1 Feb 2008 17:15:34 -0800, "CW" wrote:


"mac davis" wrote in message
.. .

.. just a jumper change and plug it into 220v.. and add
1/4 HP, supposedly..

That's a myth.

Dunno.. but it it's not true, it's more of an advertising ripoff then a myth..


mac

Please remove splinters before emailing

"Ralph E Lindberg" wrote in message
...
In article ,
"CW" wrote:

"mac davis" wrote in message
...

.. just a jumper change and plug it into 220v.. and add
1/4 HP, supposedly..

That's a myth.

Or not.... See Teknatool's own comments
http://www.teknatool.com/products/La...a%20_DVRXP.htm

Yeah, and Craftsman puts out a shop vac with 6 horsepower.

On Sat, 2 Feb 2008 12:43:18 -0800, "CW" wrote:


"Ralph E Lindberg" wrote in message
...
In article ,
"CW" wrote:

"mac davis" wrote in message
...

.. just a jumper change and plug it into 220v.. and add
1/4 HP, supposedly..

That's a myth.

Or not.... See Teknatool's own comments
http://www.teknatool.com/products/La...a%20_DVRXP.htm

Yeah, and Craftsman puts out a shop vac with 6 horsepower.

My old one sure SOUNDS like it..


mac

Please remove splinters before emailing