There are many methods to centre workpieces for turning. They all
seemed laborious to me. The method I have devised may be a case of
reinventing the wheel but for me it was a discovery so I thought I'd
post it in case it helps fellow woodturning enthusiasts. I use a self-
centering four jaw chuck (my preference is a scroll chuck for speed of
adjustment but a keyed chuck does the job). The centre hole of the
chuck is fitted with a metal bung, either threaded or with a small
shoulder to stop it dropping through. (Threaded is better as it stays
in place when the workpiece is pulled away). The bung has a sharp
nipple turned on it in the centre. To use, place the chuck on its back
on a firm surface. Set the jaws to the right dimension and hammer the
two ends of the stock down onto it. This of cause not only marks it
but dents it for easy mounting. Very accurate, very fast.
Hope it helps
Exbrat

wrote:
There are many methods to centre workpieces for turning. They all
seemed laborious to me. The method I have devised may be a case of
reinventing the wheel but for me it was a discovery so I thought I'd
post it in case it helps fellow woodturning enthusiasts. I use a self-
centering four jaw chuck (my preference is a scroll chuck for speed of
adjustment but a keyed chuck does the job). The centre hole of the
chuck is fitted with a metal bung, either threaded or with a small
shoulder to stop it dropping through. (Threaded is better as it stays
in place when the workpiece is pulled away). The bung has a sharp
nipple turned on it in the centre. To use, place the chuck on its back
on a firm surface. Set the jaws to the right dimension and hammer the
two ends of the stock down onto it. This of cause not only marks it
but dents it for easy mounting. Very accurate, very fast.
Hope it helps
Exbrat

Somehow I got lost there. Do you have a picture?

--
Gerald Ross
Cochran, GA

Those are my principles. If you don't
like them I have others. (Groucho Marx)

"Gerald Ross" wrote: Somehow I got lost there. Do you have a picture?
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
I got everything except how you center the work.

"Leo Lichtman" wrote in message
...

"Gerald Ross" wrote: Somehow I got lost there. Do you have a picture?
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
I got everything except how you center the work.


Sounds to me like he's talking about a dowel center:

http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?p...FRQyZAodlDV3Kg

....or something similar. Drop one into the center hole in the chuck, then
let the chuck jaws center the workpiece over the point. Tap on the opposite
end of the workpiece to mark the center. Reverse the workpiece and repeat.

B.

On Nov 26, 1:57 am, "Buddy Matlosz" wrote:
"Leo Lichtman" wrote in message

...

"Gerald Ross" wrote: Somehow I got lost there. Do you have a picture?
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
I got everything except how you center the work.

Sounds to me like he's talking about a dowel center:

http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?p...l%20center&gcl...

...or something similar. Drop one into the center hole in the chuck, then
let the chuck jaws center the workpiece over the point. Tap on the opposite
end of the workpiece to mark the center. Reverse the workpiece and repeat.

B.

Buddy, you've got it. (Saves my having to work out how to send a
picture for Gerald) The 'dowel centre' that I made on my metal-working
lathe is the same design as the dowel centres shown in your link, but
the body is threaded (1/2" BSP) to fit into the chuck mounting hole.
The sharp nipple is conically shaped, about 1/8" across at its base.
By giving the workpiece a good tap the conical dent made in the
workpiece is quite sufficient to easily mount the workpiece between
the forked centre in the head stock and the tail stock centre. If you
don't have access to a metal lathe then a bung/plug turned out of
hardwood with a masonary nail in the centre would do. Make the plug
long enough to rest on the work bench (i.e. flush with the chuck
backplate) so it doesn't get knocked through when you hit the
workpiece. To prevent your workpiece pulling the plug out, put a small
shoulder on the bottom of the plug (as opposed to the top as is the
case with the dowel centres mentioned) and insert it via the back of
the chuck. (That's why I threaded my plug). As I mentioned, I'm not up
to speed on posting pictures but I would be happy to email one should
it still be thought useful.

Thanks for your interest in my post.

Exbrat

Hi Exbrat, Thanks for offering your method of centering regular shaped
stock. I hope your post will stimulate us to post (and repost because we
often get in a technique rut, plus we forget previous suggestions and
seldom use the archives) our ideas and try other's variations on common
turning methods. Rote is good, but thinking is better.

I thought to try your method to make the tail dimple in small slightly
irregular square stock for centering in a scroll chuck (I'm making lots
of Darrell's icicles).
I haven't tried it, but from my armchair I'd think your method wouldn't
work for spindles smaller than the hole in the chuck body because there
would be nothing to set the dowel pin against. right/wrong?

Thanks again for posting your suggestion.
Keep em coming!


Turn to Safety, Arch
Fortiter


http://community.webtv.net/almcc/MacsMusings

Sorry Exbrat, I forgot about turning an adapter to fit inside the hole
to fix and center the pin. I have a metal lathe and plan to try making
one.


Turn to Safety, Arch
Fortiter


http://community.webtv.net/almcc/MacsMusings

On Nov 26, 3:52 pm, (Arch) wrote:
Hi Exbrat, Thanks for offering your method of centering regular shaped
stock. I hope your post will stimulate us to post (and repost because we
often get in a technique rut, plus we forget previous suggestions and
seldom use the archives) our ideas and try other's variations on common
turning methods. Rote is good, but thinking is better.

I thought to try your method to make the tail dimple in small slightly
irregular square stock for centering in a scroll chuck (I'm making lots
of Darrell's icicles).
I haven't tried it, but from my armchair I'd think your method wouldn't
work for spindles smaller than the hole in the chuck body because there
would be nothing to set the dowel pin against. right/wrong?

Thanks again for posting your suggestion.
Keep em coming!

Turn to Safety, Arch
Fortiter

http://community.webtv.net/almcc/MacsMusings

Hi Arch, I don't know what Darrel's icicles are but last week I turned
a couple of dozen legs for doll's house furniture. They were 1/4"
square. The limiting factor is the smallest that the chuck jaws close
down to. Mine close down to about 3/16". Smaller than that would
require jaw shoes/shimming. The plug must of course clear the back of
the jaws to allow them to close that far, which my threaded plug can
do. (I've drilled two holes in the surface of the plug to facilitate
fitting/removal with a vertical peg spanner). If you make a plug that
is not threaded, it must be long enough to protrude out of the back of
the chuck to rest against the work bench that the chuck is lying on to
take the force of the mallet blows - a hammer risks damaging the
indent youv'e just made on the first end unless you are careful. For
irregular but identical cross-sectioned workpieces (e.g. purposely off
centre or rectangular etc.) I use an independent four jawed chuck.

hth Exbrat

On Sun, 25 Nov 2007 09:50:58 -0800 (PST), wrote:

There are many methods to centre workpieces for turning. They all
seemed laborious to me. The method I have devised may be a case of
reinventing the wheel but for me it was a discovery so I thought I'd
post it in case it helps fellow woodturning enthusiasts. I use a self-
centering four jaw chuck (my preference is a scroll chuck for speed of
adjustment but a keyed chuck does the job). The centre hole of the
chuck is fitted with a metal bung, either threaded or with a small
shoulder to stop it dropping through. (Threaded is better as it stays
in place when the workpiece is pulled away). The bung has a sharp
nipple turned on it in the centre. To use, place the chuck on its back
on a firm surface. Set the jaws to the right dimension and hammer the
two ends of the stock down onto it. This of cause not only marks it
but dents it for easy mounting. Very accurate, very fast.
Hope it helps
Exbrat

Or, they could just buy one of these.. lol


mac

Please remove splinters before emailing

On Nov 26, 7:02 pm, mac davis wrote:
On Sun, 25 Nov 2007 09:50:58 -0800 (PST), wrote:
There are many methods to centre workpieces for turning. They all
seemed laborious to me. The method I have devised may be a case of
reinventing the wheel but for me it was a discovery so I thought I'd
post it in case it helps fellow woodturning enthusiasts. I use a self-
centering four jaw chuck (my preference is a scroll chuck for speed of
adjustment but a keyed chuck does the job). The centre hole of the
chuck is fitted with a metal bung, either threaded or with a small
shoulder to stop it dropping through. (Threaded is better as it stays
in place when the workpiece is pulled away). The bung has a sharp
nipple turned on it in the centre. To use, place the chuck on its back
on a firm surface. Set the jaws to the right dimension and hammer the
two ends of the stock down onto it. This of cause not only marks it
but dents it for easy mounting. Very accurate, very fast.
Hope it helps
Exbrat

Or, they could just buy one of these.. lol

mac

Please remove splinters before emailing- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

Mac, if you know of a supplier/manufacturer who stocks/makes such
chuck accessories covering the most common headstock spindle threads
please share your source. I personally haven't seen such an accessory
on the market. Of course one can get one's local machinist to knock
the accessory up at a price. All I was offering was the idea.

Exbrat

On Mon, 26 Nov 2007 10:45:34 -0800 (PST), wrote:


Or, they could just buy one of these.. lol


Mac, if you know of a supplier/manufacturer who stocks/makes such
chuck accessories covering the most common headstock spindle threads
please share your source. I personally haven't seen such an accessory
on the market. Of course one can get one's local machinist to knock
the accessory up at a price. All I was offering was the idea.

Exbrat

As I understood it, you wanted something to fit in your chuck, have a point and
tap stock to mark it, right?
I still like the link I gave you for a wall mounted one, but how about this:
http://www.pennstateind.com/store/lcentqc1.html
I have one ordered, but just because I'm tired of taking the chuck off the
spindle just to do a few minutes of work between centers...


mac

Please remove splinters before emailing

"mac davis" wrote in message
...
On Mon, 26 Nov 2007 10:45:34 -0800 (PST), wrote:


Or, they could just buy one of these.. lol


Mac, if you know of a supplier/manufacturer who stocks/makes such
chuck accessories covering the most common headstock spindle threads
please share your source. I personally haven't seen such an accessory
on the market. Of course one can get one's local machinist to knock
the accessory up at a price. All I was offering was the idea.

Exbrat

As I understood it, you wanted something to fit in your chuck, have a
point and
tap stock to mark it, right?
(clip)I still like the link I gave you for a wall mounted one, but how
about this:
http://www.pennstateind.com/store/lcentqc1.html (clip)
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
Mac. was there a link to a wall mounted centering device? I'd like to look
at it, but I don't see the link.

Regardiong the center in this link, it looks to me like it must be held by
the closed jaws, so it would mark the work, but not center it. Am I seeing
it right?

On Nov 26, 8:07 pm, mac davis wrote:
On Mon, 26 Nov 2007 10:45:34 -0800 (PST), wrote:

Or, they could just buy one of these.. lol

Mac, if you know of a supplier/manufacturer who stocks/makes such
chuck accessories covering the most common headstock spindle threads
please share your source. I personally haven't seen such an accessory
on the market. Of course one can get one's local machinist to knock
the accessory up at a price. All I was offering was the idea.

Exbrat

As I understood it, you wanted something to fit in your chuck, have a point and
tap stock to mark it, right?
I still like the link I gave you for a wall mounted one, but how about this:http://www.pennstateind.com/store/lcentqc1.html
I have one ordered, but just because I'm tired of taking the chuck off the
spindle just to do a few minutes of work between centers...

mac

Please remove splinters before emailing

No mac. A misunderstanding. I wanted something that centers the
workpieces quickly and accurately over a sharp spiggot, poised to be
hammered down onto it. The workpiece can be any dimension that the
four jaw chuck can take. The chuck does not need to be mounted on the
lathe. It is best lying it on its back on the work bench. The
technique shown in your link is one I have used for many years using
countersink bits for small workpieces and homemade parallel shaft
forked center for large workpieces.

Exbrat

A pic to ABPW would REALLY be helpful. I'm a newby but I'm having trouble
visualizing what you did here. Thanks for the contribution.


wrote in message
...
On Nov 26, 1:57 am, "Buddy Matlosz" wrote:
"Leo Lichtman" wrote in message

...

"Gerald Ross" wrote: Somehow I got lost there. Do you have a picture?
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
I got everything except how you center the work.

Sounds to me like he's talking about a dowel center:

http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?p...l%20center&gcl...

...or something similar. Drop one into the center hole in the chuck, then
let the chuck jaws center the workpiece over the point. Tap on the
opposite
end of the workpiece to mark the center. Reverse the workpiece and
repeat.

B.

Buddy, you've got it. (Saves my having to work out how to send a
picture for Gerald) The 'dowel centre' that I made on my metal-working
lathe is the same design as the dowel centres shown in your link, but
the body is threaded (1/2" BSP) to fit into the chuck mounting hole.
The sharp nipple is conically shaped, about 1/8" across at its base.
By giving the workpiece a good tap the conical dent made in the
workpiece is quite sufficient to easily mount the workpiece between
the forked centre in the head stock and the tail stock centre. If you
don't have access to a metal lathe then a bung/plug turned out of
hardwood with a masonary nail in the centre would do. Make the plug
long enough to rest on the work bench (i.e. flush with the chuck
backplate) so it doesn't get knocked through when you hit the
workpiece. To prevent your workpiece pulling the plug out, put a small
shoulder on the bottom of the plug (as opposed to the top as is the
case with the dowel centres mentioned) and insert it via the back of
the chuck. (That's why I threaded my plug). As I mentioned, I'm not up
to speed on posting pictures but I would be happy to email one should
it still be thought useful.

Thanks for your interest in my post.

Exbrat

Looks like a modification of the Robert Sorby steb centre.

Tom
"mac davis" wrote in message
...
On Mon, 26 Nov 2007 10:45:34 -0800 (PST), wrote:


Or, they could just buy one of these.. lol


Mac, if you know of a supplier/manufacturer who stocks/makes such
chuck accessories covering the most common headstock spindle threads
please share your source. I personally haven't seen such an accessory
on the market. Of course one can get one's local machinist to knock
the accessory up at a price. All I was offering was the idea.

Exbrat

As I understood it, you wanted something to fit in your chuck, have a
point and
tap stock to mark it, right?
I still like the link I gave you for a wall mounted one, but how about
this:
http://www.pennstateind.com/store/lcentqc1.html
I have one ordered, but just because I'm tired of taking the chuck off the
spindle just to do a few minutes of work between centers...


mac

Please remove splinters before emailing

On Nov 27, 11:28 am, "Tom Dougall" wrote:
Looks like a modification of the Robert Sorby steb centre.

Tom"mac davis" wrote in message

...



On Mon, 26 Nov 2007 10:45:34 -0800 (PST), wrote:

Or, they could just buy one of these.. lol

Mac, if you know of a supplier/manufacturer who stocks/makes such
chuck accessories covering the most common headstock spindle threads
please share your source. I personally haven't seen such an accessory
on the market. Of course one can get one's local machinist to knock
the accessory up at a price. All I was offering was the idea.

Exbrat

As I understood it, you wanted something to fit in your chuck, have a
point and
tap stock to mark it, right?
I still like the link I gave you for a wall mounted one, but how about
this:
http://www.pennstateind.com/store/lcentqc1.html
I have one ordered, but just because I'm tired of taking the chuck off the
spindle just to do a few minutes of work between centers...

mac

Please remove splinters before emailing- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

Hi Tom, No it's not like the Robert Sorby steb centre. That, as I see
it, is just another drive center with a parallel shaft that can be
fitted into a chuck as opposed to a morse taper shanked drive center
fitting into the headstock direct. It has its uses of course as it
obviates the need for swapping out the chuck all the time. As I
mentioned in my post to Mac, I use a countersink bit for small
workpieces and a home made (modified old Forstner bit) for larger
work. So, back to my idea. It is not another drive center! It's a way
of accurately and rapidly marking and indenting regular sectioned
workpieces ready for mounting between centers.

Hi Patrick and Gerald Ross, We must have reached a thousand words so I
think a picture(s) is right. I'll do that. Just have to buff up on
how. The pointer to ABPW has put me on the right path. Watch that
space. May take me a few hours.

Exbrat

On Mon, 26 Nov 2007 21:03:51 GMT, "Leo Lichtman"
wrote:

Mac. was there a link to a wall mounted centering device? I'd like to look
at it, but I don't see the link.

Yep.. from Lee Valley, of course..

http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.a...at=1,330,49237

Ok for spindle work, but sort of useless for bowls, IMO..

Regardiong the center in this link, it looks to me like it must be held by
the closed jaws, so it would mark the work, but not center it. Am I seeing
it right?

yep.. I probably misunderstood the OP..
Sounded like he wanted a pointy thing in his chuck, with the chuck lying flat on
a bench, so he could mark center??

I've been using the same $3 plastic center finder for years, with a spring
punch..


mac

Please remove splinters before emailing

On Tue, 27 Nov 2007 10:28:23 GMT, "Tom Dougall"
wrote:

Looks like a modification of the Robert Sorby steb centre.

IMO, it's just a way to have a drive center mount where my chuck screw goes, so
I can leave the chuck in the spindle.. just lazy.. ;-]

Tom
"mac davis" wrote in message
.. .
On Mon, 26 Nov 2007 10:45:34 -0800 (PST), wrote:


Or, they could just buy one of these.. lol


Mac, if you know of a supplier/manufacturer who stocks/makes such
chuck accessories covering the most common headstock spindle threads
please share your source. I personally haven't seen such an accessory
on the market. Of course one can get one's local machinist to knock
the accessory up at a price. All I was offering was the idea.

Exbrat

As I understood it, you wanted something to fit in your chuck, have a
point and
tap stock to mark it, right?
I still like the link I gave you for a wall mounted one, but how about
this:
http://www.pennstateind.com/store/lcentqc1.html
I have one ordered, but just because I'm tired of taking the chuck off the
spindle just to do a few minutes of work between centers...


mac

Please remove splinters before emailing



mac

Please remove splinters before emailing

On Nov 27, 5:44 am, "Patrick" pfischerATATATATWavecable.com wrote:
A pic to ABPW would REALLY be helpful. I'm a newby but I'm having trouble
visualizing what you did here. Thanks for the contribution.

wrote in message

...



On Nov 26, 1:57 am, "Buddy Matlosz" wrote:
"Leo Lichtman" wrote in message

...

"Gerald Ross" wrote: Somehow I got lost there. Do you have a picture?
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
I got everything except how you center the work.

Sounds to me like he's talking about a dowel center:

http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?p...l%20center&gcl...

...or something similar. Drop one into the center hole in the chuck, then
let the chuck jaws center the workpiece over the point. Tap on the
opposite
end of the workpiece to mark the center. Reverse the workpiece and
repeat.

B.

Buddy, you've got it. (Saves my having to work out how to send a
picture for Gerald) The 'dowel centre' that I made on my metal-working
lathe is the same design as the dowel centres shown in your link, but
the body is threaded (1/2" BSP) to fit into the chuck mounting hole.
The sharp nipple is conically shaped, about 1/8" across at its base.
By giving the workpiece a good tap the conical dent made in the
workpiece is quite sufficient to easily mount the workpiece between
the forked centre in the head stock and the tail stock centre. If you
don't have access to a metal lathe then a bung/plug turned out of
hardwood with a masonary nail in the centre would do. Make the plug
long enough to rest on the work bench (i.e. flush with the chuck
backplate) so it doesn't get knocked through when you hit the
workpiece. To prevent your workpiece pulling the plug out, put a small
shoulder on the bottom of the plug (as opposed to the top as is the
case with the dowel centres mentioned) and insert it via the back of
the chuck. (That's why I threaded my plug). As I mentioned, I'm not up
to speed on posting pictures but I would be happy to email one should
it still be thought useful.

Thanks for your interest in my post.

Exbrat- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

Hi again Patrick and Gerald

I have uploaded some pictures onto group http://groups.google.co.uk/group/wa-woodturning-chat
It seemed to be the easiest to get to. My first attempt to upload pics
to a Google Group. Hope it worked.

Exbrat

On Nov 27, 5:03 pm, mac davis wrote:
On Mon, 26 Nov 2007 21:03:51 GMT, "Leo Lichtman"
wrote:

Mac. was there a link to a wall mounted centering device? I'd like to look
at it, but I don't see the link.

Yep.. from Lee Valley, of course..

http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.a...at=1,330,49237

Ok for spindle work, but sort of useless for bowls, IMO..

Regardiong the center in this link, it looks to me like it must be held by
the closed jaws, so it would mark the work, but not center it. Am I seeing
it right?

yep.. I probably misunderstood the OP..
Sounded like he wanted a pointy thing in his chuck, with the chuck lying flat on
a bench, so he could mark center??

I've been using the same $3 plastic center finder for years, with a spring
punch..

mac

Please remove splinters before emailing

Mac, Here's a link to some pics I've just uploaded
http://groups.google.co.uk/group/wa-woodturning-chat
Hope that gives you a better idea of what I was posting about.

I too have been using a plastic center marking tool for years. I hope
you'll agree that I've improved on that a little. Cost me nothing, not
even $3.00.

Exbrat

"Exbrat" wrote: Mac, Here's a link to some pics I've just uploaded
http://groups.google.co.uk/group/wa-woodturning-chat
Hope that gives you a better idea of what I was posting about. (clip)
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
The first thing i noticed was that you are using a 4-jaw machinist's
chuck--the jaws appear to be tapered to a rounded nose. When you adjust it
to act as a guide to center the wood, these jaws should slip nicely over the
wood surface, allowing you to set the thing fior a fairly close fit. Those
of us who use chucks like the One-way have jaws that are curved and
serrated, and I have a hunch the action will not be as smooth.

I have an idea. With the chuck on the lathe, you could mount the wood in
the jaws, and then bring the threaded center punch in from the rear to mark
it. This would require a really long Allen wrench or screw driver. It
would save the step of removing the chuck from the lathe.

On Nov 27, 8:56 pm, "Leo Lichtman"
wrote:
"Exbrat" wrote: Mac, Here's a link to some pics I've just uploaded
http://groups.google.co.uk/group/wa-woodturning-chat
Hope that gives you a better idea of what I was posting about. (clip)

^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
The first thing i noticed was that you are using a 4-jaw machinist's
chuck--the jaws appear to be tapered to a rounded nose. When you adjust it
to act as a guide to center the wood, these jaws should slip nicely over the
wood surface, allowing you to set the thing fior a fairly close fit. Those
of us who use chucks like the One-way have jaws that are curved and
serrated, and I have a hunch the action will not be as smooth.

I have an idea. With the chuck on the lathe, you could mount the wood in
the jaws, and then bring the threaded center punch in from the rear to mark
it. This would require a really long Allen wrench or screw driver. It
would save the step of removing the chuck from the lathe.

Hi Leo
When I'm doing a run of between centers spindle turning, my four jaw
chuck really is lying around. My scroll chuck is a wood-turning chuck
with serrated jaws, however, it is easily eased open or closed a tad
by a slight nudge on the scroll plate tommy bar. See photo 5 on link
http://groups.google.co.uk/group/wa-woodturning-chat . Should you want
to indent the workpiece when mounted, I suggest, rather than using an
allen wrench and the Center Plug I made up, drill a hole through the
center of a Center Plug and make the indent with a sliding fit
sharpened steel rod. (A sort of very long center punch) and a hammer.
Thanks for your interest.

Exbrat

On Tue, 27 Nov 2007 10:39:32 -0800 (PST), Exbrat wrote:

Mac, Here's a link to some pics I've just uploaded
http://groups.google.co.uk/group/wa-woodturning-chat
Hope that gives you a better idea of what I was posting about.

I too have been using a plastic center marking tool for years. I hope
you'll agree that I've improved on that a little. Cost me nothing, not
even $3.00.

Exbrat

I guess I'm sort of confused as to use...
You replaced a center finder with a scroll chuck and pointed nipple?

There has to be something I'm missing here... this is for finding and marking
center for spindle turning, right?

If I am understanding this, couldn't you put the stock to be cantered in the
chuck and center punch it from the back of the chuck?


mac

Please remove splinters before emailing

On Tue, 27 Nov 2007 19:56:48 GMT, "Leo Lichtman"
wrote:

I have an idea. With the chuck on the lathe, you could mount the wood in
the jaws, and then bring the threaded center punch in from the rear to mark
it. This would require a really long Allen wrench or screw driver. It
would save the step of removing the chuck from the lathe.

Great Minds Think Alike...

Good point on the chuck, too.. I'd never used a metal chuck and had little idea
how it functioned compared to a wood lathe chuck..


mac

Please remove splinters before emailing

On Tue, 27 Nov 2007 13:09:51 -0800 (PST), Exbrat wrote:


Hi Leo
When I'm doing a run of between centers spindle turning, my four jaw
chuck really is lying around. My scroll chuck is a wood-turning chuck
with serrated jaws, however, it is easily eased open or closed a tad
by a slight nudge on the scroll plate tommy bar. See photo 5 on link
http://groups.google.co.uk/group/wa-woodturning-chat . Should you want
to indent the workpiece when mounted, I suggest, rather than using an
allen wrench and the Center Plug I made up, drill a hole through the
center of a Center Plug and make the indent with a sliding fit
sharpened steel rod. (A sort of very long center punch) and a hammer.
Thanks for your interest.

Exbrat

Ahh... that brought on up from the memory banks..

A teacher that did a lot of lamps showed my his knock-out bar and it had a very
small hole in the end with a pin in it.. he ran it through the spindle as if he
was knocking out a Morse taper and it center punched his lamp body for
drilling..


mac

Please remove splinters before emailing

On Nov 28, 12:27 am, mac davis wrote:
On Tue, 27 Nov 2007 10:39:32 -0800 (PST), Exbrat wrote:
Mac, Here's a link to some pics I've just uploaded
http://groups.google.co.uk/group/wa-woodturning-chat
Hope that gives you a better idea of what I was posting about.

I too have been using a plastic center marking tool for years. I hope
you'll agree that I've improved on that a little. Cost me nothing, not
even $3.00.

Exbrat

I guess I'm sort of confused as to use...
You replaced a center finder with a scroll chuck and pointed nipple?

There has to be something I'm missing here... this is for finding and marking
center for spindle turning, right?

If I am understanding this, couldn't you put the stock to be cantered in the
chuck and center punch it from the back of the chuck?

mac

Please remove splinters before emailing

You must have missed my post to Leo on 27th. That's exactly what I
suggested. That approach is ok if your self-centering four jaw chuck
is left mounted most of the time, even for a job lot of a couple of
dozen spindles using a drive center such as the Robert Sorby steb
centre.

As I see it, using that approach I'd have to:-

1. Mount each blank. Close up the tail stock (guessing the center at
the tail - better removing tail center and using empty tailstock to
take hammer blow otherwise you will end up with an off center indent
at the tail end).
2. (In my case remove outboard accessory). Insert spiked rod and give
it a hammer blow. Open up the tail stock and reverse and do other end.
3. Repeat 1. and 2. a couple of dozen times.
4. Fit drive center and start turning.


Time is money. I'd beat that hands down. 3 or 4 seconds per workpiece
to center mark and indent (providing I'm not making four-poster
beds!).

Ref your post on 27th about the Veritas Center Marker. Good link.
Thanks. Excellent, simple idea.

You said "Ok for spindle work, but sort of useless for bowls, IMO.. "

Would be easy enough to knock one up with 8" sides to take up to 16"
bowls. Just needs a sliding marker knife. e.g. a 1" to 2" piece of
hacksaw blade, sharpened to a knife edge and clamped at about the
workpiece center (with, say, 1/8" protruding) in a narrow diagonal
groove bisecting the 90 deg cradle.

Exbrat

On Nov 28, 3:40 am, Maxwell Lol wrote:
Exbrat writes:
Mac, Here's a link to some pics I've just uploaded
http://groups.google.co.uk/group/wa-woodturning-chat
Hope that gives you a better idea of what I was posting about.

At first I thought the screw center I have that fits in my Nova check
would work (if I replace the screw with a point) - but then I realized
that this center only stays in place when the chuck is tightened.

So it's no good. The Sorby steb center has the same problem.

If you cannot use the center hole of your chuck to house a spiked
insert could you perhaps mount a spike on a steel plate, possibly a
cruciform shape to avoid the jaws when they close, and position it
snuggly (interference fit) on the front of the chuck backplate. It
would be possible to do that on my chuck but I am not familiar with
the Nova.

Exbrat

On Wed, 28 Nov 2007 01:42:37 -0800 (PST), Exbrat wrote:

On Nov 28, 12:27 am, mac davis wrote:
On Tue, 27 Nov 2007 10:39:32 -0800 (PST), Exbrat wrote:
Mac, Here's a link to some pics I've just uploaded
http://groups.google.co.uk/group/wa-woodturning-chat
Hope that gives you a better idea of what I was posting about.

I too have been using a plastic center marking tool for years. I hope
you'll agree that I've improved on that a little. Cost me nothing, not
even $3.00.

Exbrat

I guess I'm sort of confused as to use...
You replaced a center finder with a scroll chuck and pointed nipple?

There has to be something I'm missing here... this is for finding and marking
center for spindle turning, right?

If I am understanding this, couldn't you put the stock to be cantered in the
chuck and center punch it from the back of the chuck?

mac

Please remove splinters before emailing

You must have missed my post to Leo on 27th. That's exactly what I
suggested. That approach is ok if your self-centering four jaw chuck
is left mounted most of the time, even for a job lot of a couple of
dozen spindles using a drive center such as the Robert Sorby steb
centre.

As I see it, using that approach I'd have to:-

1. Mount each blank. Close up the tail stock (guessing the center at
the tail - better removing tail center and using empty tailstock to
take hammer blow otherwise you will end up with an off center indent
at the tail end).
2. (In my case remove outboard accessory). Insert spiked rod and give
it a hammer blow. Open up the tail stock and reverse and do other end.
3. Repeat 1. and 2. a couple of dozen times.
4. Fit drive center and start turning.


Time is money. I'd beat that hands down. 3 or 4 seconds per workpiece
to center mark and indent (providing I'm not making four-poster
beds!).

Ref your post on 27th about the Veritas Center Marker. Good link.
Thanks. Excellent, simple idea.

You said "Ok for spindle work, but sort of useless for bowls, IMO.. "

Would be easy enough to knock one up with 8" sides to take up to 16"
bowls. Just needs a sliding marker knife. e.g. a 1" to 2" piece of
hacksaw blade, sharpened to a knife edge and clamped at about the
workpiece center (with, say, 1/8" protruding) in a narrow diagonal
groove bisecting the 90 deg cradle.

Exbrat

Whatever works for you, I guess... A minute or 2 with a center finder works for
me..
Everyone turns with different techniques and goals and mine is to relax and not
stress.. If it isn't fun any more I'll find something else that is..
If I ever get into the "time is money" production mode, I'll import my stuff
from China.. YMWV


mac

Please remove splinters before emailing