Anyone using this beast?
How good a unit is it?
Any drawbacks?

In article MSaRi.15421$G25.14167@edtnps89,
wrote:

Anyone using this beast?
How good a unit is it?
Any drawbacks?

Yes, reasonable quality, mine had some minor fit and finish issues,
quickly resolved. There are some reports that the percentage of poor
quality units has increased with the move to China

--
--------------------------------------------------------
Personal e-mail is the n7bsn but at amsat.org
This posting address is a spam-trap and seldom read
RV and Camping FAQ can be found at
http://www.ralphandellen.us/rv

On Wed, 17 Oct 2007 08:24:23 -0500, Steve Russell
wrote:

Hello,

I used a DVR-XP extensively when I was demonstrating woodturning at The
Woodworking Shows. I found it to be a very capable lathe, although I would
have preferred a dial to change the speed, in lieu of the buttons on the
controller (a minor nit pick).

My unit was mounted to a steel stand and I quickly found out that it was
difficult to clean under the bedway (in the centre of the rails) because of
the amount of clearance under the unit. If you have an air compressor, you
could easily just blow it out after each use, but when I was on the road
demonstrating it was always a problem (another minor nit pick).

The only other thing I noticed was the bedways... I would have liked to see
more mass in the bedways, given the capacity of this lathe and the amount of
forces that would be generated when turning items near the capacity of the
unit. Although the size and mass of the bedways were increased over the
previous Nova lathe model, I still would have liked to have seen some more
"beef" in the bedway section.

In turning, the XP had ample power for the pieces I was turning and it
performed very well, with very good torque - even when taking large cuts in
green wood bowls with an Irish ground bowl gouge. In its price range, it's
definitely worth a look. Take care and all the best to you and yours!

Steve.. I've been considering this lathe as a move up from my jet 1442vs..
I like the lathe on paper and appreciate the belt-less drive and all..

My question is on low speed.. the ads all say 100 to 3,000 rpm or whatever and I
was wondering why they'd limit it that way, when other digital lathes state low
speed at zero??


mac

Please remove splinters before emailing

I am not sure if this is true or not, but... I heard that this Nova
when turned off, the speed goes back to zero automatically. I think
this is a wonderful safety feature. It has led to me using the
variable speed knob on my PM to turn it off and on when I turn, and
the on/off knob to turn the lathe off at the end of a turning session.
How many times have you turned your lathe on with the speed set too
high because you forgot?
robo hippy

On Oct 17, 9:00 am, mac davis wrote:
On Wed, 17 Oct 2007 08:24:23 -0500, Steve Russell
wrote:



Hello,

I used a DVR-XP extensively when I was demonstrating woodturning at The
Woodworking Shows. I found it to be a very capable lathe, although I would
have preferred a dial to change the speed, in lieu of the buttons on the
controller (a minor nit pick).

My unit was mounted to a steel stand and I quickly found out that it was
difficult to clean under the bedway (in the centre of the rails) because of
the amount of clearance under the unit. If you have an air compressor, you
could easily just blow it out after each use, but when I was on the road
demonstrating it was always a problem (another minor nit pick).

The only other thing I noticed was the bedways... I would have liked to see
more mass in the bedways, given the capacity of this lathe and the amount of
forces that would be generated when turning items near the capacity of the
unit. Although the size and mass of the bedways were increased over the
previous Nova lathe model, I still would have liked to have seen some more
"beef" in the bedway section.

In turning, the XP had ample power for the pieces I was turning and it
performed very well, with very good torque - even when taking large cuts in
green wood bowls with an Irish ground bowl gouge. In its price range, it's
definitely worth a look. Take care and all the best to you and yours!

Steve.. I've been considering this lathe as a move up from my jet 1442vs..
I like the lathe on paper and appreciate the belt-less drive and all..

My question is on low speed.. the ads all say 100 to 3,000 rpm or whatever and I
was wondering why they'd limit it that way, when other digital lathes state low
speed at zero??

mac

Please remove splinters before emailing

"mac davis" wrote in message
...
Steve.. I've been considering this lathe as a move up from my jet 1442vs..
I like the lathe on paper and appreciate the belt-less drive and all..

My question is on low speed.. the ads all say 100 to 3,000 rpm or whatever
and I
was wondering why they'd limit it that way, when other digital lathes
state low
speed at zero??


There's always the source www.teknatool.com and the downloadable manual.

Also has the copy from the FWW test
http://www.teknatool.com/products/La... pril%2007.pdf
which certainly found no fault with the fit/finish.

http://groups.msn.com/NovaOwners is another place to check.

I've got the 300 with the bed Steve thought should be beefed up and the
silly-looking tailstock they began with. Looks like the Stubby type. I
swing capacity over the bed no problems, so I think it's perception, not
reality. As to the speed, remember a reluctance motor is a bit different
than an induction type, which doesn't make much torque at 2 rpm, BTW. You
want oomph at low end the DC types are your meat.

"robo hippy" wrote in message
oups.com...
I am not sure if this is true or not, but... I heard that this Nova
when turned off, the speed goes back to zero automatically. I think
this is a wonderful safety feature. It has led to me using the
variable speed knob on my PM to turn it off and on when I turn, and
the on/off knob to turn the lathe off at the end of a turning session.
How many times have you turned your lathe on with the speed set too
high because you forgot?
robo hippy




you will only turn it on with the speed too high one or two times, and then
you learn to check - if you don't learn to check, a flying piece of wood
will teach you



--
Posted via a free Usenet account from http://www.teranews.com

In article .com,
robo hippy wrote:

I am not sure if this is true or not, but... I heard that this Nova
when turned off, the speed goes back to zero automatically. I think
this is a wonderful safety feature. It has led to me using the
variable speed knob on my PM to turn it off and on when I turn, and
the on/off knob to turn the lathe off at the end of a turning session.
How many times have you turned your lathe on with the speed set too
high because you forgot?
robo hippy
Actually it resets to 500 rpm, which I do love. I can echo much of
Steve's other comments though. One thing I am getting ready to do, mine
is too low, so I am going to raise it, by putting blocks between the
lathe and the (home brew) stand. This will allow me to better clear the
chips out of the ways. My stand also has a sand box at the bottom to add
weight

--
--------------------------------------------------------
Personal e-mail is the n7bsn but at amsat.org
This posting address is a spam-trap and seldom read
RV and Camping FAQ can be found at
http://www.ralphandellen.us/rv

On Wed, 17 Oct 2007 09:19:21 -0700, robo hippy wrote:

I am not sure if this is true or not, but... I heard that this Nova
when turned off, the speed goes back to zero automatically. I think
this is a wonderful safety feature. It has led to me using the
variable speed knob on my PM to turn it off and on when I turn, and
the on/off knob to turn the lathe off at the end of a turning session.
How many times have you turned your lathe on with the speed set too
high because you forgot?
robo hippy

Not me, Reed... I've never started the lathe with a bowl blank on it after
buffing something at 1,900 rpm.. at least not that I'll admit..


mac

Please remove splinters before emailing

Hey Mr Hippy, You mentioned something that I've wondered about, ie.
leaving my Leeson controller switches on. Does using the speed control
as an on-off switch during a turning session do any harm and why does
the control need both a run switch and a power switch? I guess to start
up where I left off, but wouldn't the power switch do the same since
there is no default to zero rpm? Something to do with the electronics?


Turn to Safety, Arch
Fortiter


http://community.webtv.net/almcc/MacsMusings

Arch wrote:
Hey Mr Hippy, You mentioned something that I've wondered about, ie.
leaving my Leeson controller switches on. Does using the speed control
as an on-off switch during a turning session do any harm and why does
the control need both a run switch and a power switch? I guess to start
up where I left off, but wouldn't the power switch do the same since
there is no default to zero rpm? Something to do with the electronics?


Turn to Safety, Arch
Fortiter


http://community.webtv.net/almcc/MacsMusings



Not Hippy, but if you stop with the button, it restarts at the same
speed. If you turn the switch off, when you turn it back on it beeps a
burbles awhile like a computer booting up, then is ready to run at the
default second set speed. My second speed is 450(I changed it from
500) the first default set is 250, the third 750. It comes with five
default set speeds, but you can use the up and down buttons to change
in increments of 5 rpm. I love that on roughing out because I just
hold the down button until the shimmy stops. As the piece is evened
out rounder I can gradually speed it up to make the cutting faster.

--
Gerald Ross
Cochran, GA

There's nothing wrong with Southern
California that a rise in the ocean
level wouldn't cure.

On Wed, 17 Oct 2007 22:24:53 -0700, "William Noble" wrote:


"robo hippy" wrote in message
roups.com...
I am not sure if this is true or not, but... I heard that this Nova
when turned off, the speed goes back to zero automatically. I think
this is a wonderful safety feature. It has led to me using the
variable speed knob on my PM to turn it off and on when I turn, and
the on/off knob to turn the lathe off at the end of a turning session.
How many times have you turned your lathe on with the speed set too
high because you forgot?
robo hippy




you will only turn it on with the speed too high one or two times, and then
you learn to check - if you don't learn to check, a flying piece of wood
will teach you

Yep.. the definition of experience is "recognizing your mistakes when you repeat
them"


mac

Please remove splinters before emailing

"Steve Russell" wrote in message
.. .
Hello George,

I was actually referring to their latest DVR-XP model, not the earlier
Nova
3000 model (that also needed more beef in the bedway, IMHO and a better
tailstock) when I mentioned I thought the bedway needed more "beef". :-)

While it's true that the latest model benefited from a redesign of the
bedways that included a flared out design with increased mass, I still
think
it could use some more weight in the bedways. Of course, I'm from Texas
and
we like everything big! :-) Take care and all the best to you and yours!


Still remember the sign in a greasy spoon in Anchorage which proclaimed "Pie
$2.50. Texas size $1.00."

The non-beefed rails have plenty rigidity for me, but I don't hack at rough
pieces and strain the system, I peel wood. Those prone to mounting severely
out-of-balance and out-of-round pieces and stuffing a tool into the rotation
might find the banjo is weaker than the bed.

Speeds below the 100 rpm rate are almost more trouble than they're worth,
because you have to concentrate on steady tool position to keep it from
following your push into a low spot and getting whacked by the next high
rather than normal swing and pare. I find the 360 setting to be just about
the lower limit for "normal" cutting.

Guy with a bandsaw should find little need for anything below 200 cutting
over the bed, where the "beef" comes into play.

Fortunately I elevated my bed on 1.5" pads above the tabletop, because I was
sick and tired of having to use a hook to drag clumps of shavings out from
underneath. I have to be really lazy about cleanout, and be spindle turning
or hollowing before I get into a shaving pack situation now. Ol' Blue
taught me a lot of things!

On Fri, 19 Oct 2007 09:42:36 -0500, Steve Russell
wrote:

Hello Mac.

Apologies for the lathe reply... We're shooting a new DVD video and every
spare moment is spent in the studio shooting video...

That's a good question... I'm not sure of the answer, but it might have to
do with how the Digital Variable Reluctance motor is configured and
constructed. Obviously, having the ability to go lower than 100 RPM is
desirable when mounting larger imbalanced blanks, but there are ways around
this if you have a blank that causes too much vibration at the 100RPM speed
limit.

I would not let that particular fact stop me from purchasing this lathe, but
it should be factored into your decision if you plan on doing work near the
capacity of the lathe and you anticipate routinely mounting imbalanced
pieces.

Thanks, Steve...
I received an email from the manufacturer confirming the 100 low speed..

Nothing I do now requires that low a speed for turning, but some woods like to
be sanded slower.. probably not THAT slow, but on a large diameter bowl, the 450
rpm on my Jet seems like 1,000 on the outer edge.. *g*

It's really hard to justify spending that much for a lathe when my 1442 does
everything I need.. but the design and such sure make me want to part with the
bucks..
OTOH, it's not like there are a bunch of buyers for used lathes here in Baja..
and even if someone was interested, I'm not sure that I'd want to get
competition started.. ;-]


mac

Please remove splinters before emailing

Mac,

FWIW, I pushed my 1442 to about capacity for the first time this weekend. I
had 2 black locust crotch blanks almost 15" diameter and about 5" thick,
very wet. Since it was a tad greater than the 14" swing, I just rotated the
head and 90 degrees and did it all outboard (no tailstock assist) with the
banjo on the left of the headstock.

I has careful to get it as balanced as possible at the BS first. I thought
that was a lot of wood for a mid-sized lathe but it handled it pretty well.
450rpm was surprisingly unscary. The only thing that was a bit anoying was
that the tool rest would not stay locked (it would rotate a bit) when I
worked with a downward angle on the interior.
I'm sure that I could fix that by tweaking either the tool or my technique
if i did that on a regular basis.

Anyway, my lathe is a supplement to my flatwork, not the center of my
woodworking world. I was pleasantly surprised that the tool could function
reasonably well at it's theoretical capacity. If I am limited to 15" or so,
that seems pretty reasonable for a less than "pro" lathe.

regards,


Steve


"mac davis" wrote in message
...
On Fri, 19 Oct 2007 09:42:36 -0500, Steve Russell

wrote:

Hello Mac.

Apologies for the lathe reply... We're shooting a new DVD video and every
spare moment is spent in the studio shooting video...

That's a good question... I'm not sure of the answer, but it might have to
do with how the Digital Variable Reluctance motor is configured and
constructed. Obviously, having the ability to go lower than 100 RPM is
desirable when mounting larger imbalanced blanks, but there are ways
around
this if you have a blank that causes too much vibration at the 100RPM
speed
limit.

I would not let that particular fact stop me from purchasing this lathe,
but
it should be factored into your decision if you plan on doing work near
the
capacity of the lathe and you anticipate routinely mounting imbalanced
pieces.

Thanks, Steve...
I received an email from the manufacturer confirming the 100 low speed..

Nothing I do now requires that low a speed for turning, but some woods
like to
be sanded slower.. probably not THAT slow, but on a large diameter bowl,
the 450
rpm on my Jet seems like 1,000 on the outer edge.. *g*

It's really hard to justify spending that much for a lathe when my 1442
does
everything I need.. but the design and such sure make me want to part with
the
bucks..
OTOH, it's not like there are a bunch of buyers for used lathes here in
Baja..
and even if someone was interested, I'm not sure that I'd want to get
competition started.. ;-]


mac

Please remove splinters before emailing


--
Posted via a free Usenet account from http://www.teranews.com

Thanks everyone for your input. We just had a wood show up here, and I
bought the DVRXP. I got the outrigger, bed extention, and cast iron stand
for about $2,700 plus taxes. Now I have to put it all together, hope I have
all the nuts and bolts.( There is always one missing )



wrote in message
news:MSaRi.15421$G25.14167@edtnps89...
Anyone using this beast?
How good a unit is it?
Any drawbacks?

On Mon, 22 Oct 2007 07:17:22 -0400, "Stephen M"
wrote:

Mac,

FWIW, I pushed my 1442 to about capacity for the first time this weekend. I
had 2 black locust crotch blanks almost 15" diameter and about 5" thick,
very wet. Since it was a tad greater than the 14" swing, I just rotated the
head and 90 degrees and did it all outboard (no tailstock assist) with the
banjo on the left of the headstock.

I has careful to get it as balanced as possible at the BS first. I thought
that was a lot of wood for a mid-sized lathe but it handled it pretty well.
450rpm was surprisingly unscary. The only thing that was a bit anoying was
that the tool rest would not stay locked (it would rotate a bit) when I
worked with a downward angle on the interior.
I'm sure that I could fix that by tweaking either the tool or my technique
if i did that on a regular basis.

Anyway, my lathe is a supplement to my flatwork, not the center of my
woodworking world. I was pleasantly surprised that the tool could function
reasonably well at it's theoretical capacity. If I am limited to 15" or so,
that seems pretty reasonable for a less than "pro" lathe.

regards,


Steve

WOW! That would scare the hell out of me, Steve..

Both the idea of something that big hanging off the lathe, and possible side
force on the headstock bearings..

I was told here to use the tailstock whenever I could on stuff like that to
minimize side thrust of whatever..

Actually, as I remember it now, it was when I posted pictures of a 10" round
chunk of plum about a foot long mounted on my poor old Jet mini..

Was the tool rest itself rotating, or the tool rest holder/banjo moving?

I've had to adjust the bolt under the bed rails a few times to keep the banjo
locking tight..

You weren't using that POS tool rest extension, were you?


mac

Please remove splinters before emailing

On Mon, 22 Oct 2007 10:34:39 -0500, Steve Russell
wrote:

Steve.. I made my choice last week....

I could have dug up about $3,000 to get a DVR and accessories, or $3,200 to have
the RV carport that I use for the outdoor shop cemented..

The Jet needs some maintenance, but is fine for my business, so the DVR would be
a fun toy..

The contractor came down to $2,400 to dig out the red dirt and pour a 4" slab,
(15 x 40"), so I can roll my tools around, and it seemed like a no-brainer to go
for the home improvement..

Now, If one of the pen orders I've got bids out on come in, maybe a new toy will
be in order.. ; -]

BTW: Since moving to Mexico, I no longer have the problem of large, uneven stuff
to turn... wood is kinda scarce here, especially green..

Back in the States, where we had lots of large logs to play with, if I couldn't
get it pretty true with the chain saw and band saw before it went on the lathe,
I usually used you method of letting the heavy part revolve down.. then went at
it with a recip saw with a real ugly 8" Dewalt blade in it..



Hello Mac,

I know what you mean about the rim speed... Try roughing a 46" platter at
150 RPM. The rim is *cooking* to say the least. I like to call it NASCAR
turning. :-o I did a few 42" bowls not long ago on my outbound side and the
air flow coming off them made it seem like I was standing in front of a
high-velocity fan...

As for your current lathe... Sounds like you can keep it for a while at
least. Maybe you can spend the difference on some sweet tools. :-) Also, if
you do happen to mount an imbalanced piece on the lathe, you can easily
remove some of the weight by using a power carver like the Arbortech, or
even an electric chainsaw to lop off a bit here and there.

Since the lathe will automatically rotate the heavy side to the bottom of
the spindle, it's a simple matter to perform a rough balance on the piece to
help you have an easier time when roughing. If you really get into working
near your capacity, there are balancing chucks you can buy (I have the Kel
McNaughton Balancer) that will allow you to move weights to specific areas
around the spindle to offset for imbalanced loads.

Kel's balancer has 2, (5) pound weights that are independently moveable in a
360 degree radius to balance loads on the chuck/spindle. I use it when
working with larger pieces and with off-centre pieces. Works like a charm!
If I can ever help you, please do not hesitate to contact me. Take care and
all the best to you and yours!
--
Better Woodturning and Finishing Through Chemistry...

Steven D. Russell
Eurowood Werks Woodturning Studio, The Woodlands, Texas
Machinery, Tool and Product Testing for the Woodworking and Woodturning
Industries

Website: http://www.woodturningvideosplus.com
Free Monthly Woodturning Newsletter * Your email is kept confidential
Sign up at: http://www.woodturningvideosplus.com/lathe-talk.html


mac

Please remove splinters before emailing

On Mon, 22 Oct 2007 20:05:09 GMT, wrote:

Thanks everyone for your input. We just had a wood show up here, and I
bought the DVRXP. I got the outrigger, bed extention, and cast iron stand
for about $2,700 plus taxes. Now I have to put it all together, hope I have
all the nuts and bolts.( There is always one missing )

Cool...
Let us know how you like it...


mac

Please remove splinters before emailing

Both the idea of something that big hanging off the lathe, and possible
side
force on the headstock bearings..

I was told here to use the tailstock whenever I could on stuff like that
to
minimize side thrust of whatever..

Perhaps not the best practice but I was kind of curious to see if it could
be done without chaging my shorts. That's why I felt compelled to post; it
worked despite my doubtful expectations.

Actually, as I remember it now, it was when I posted pictures of a 10"
round
chunk of plum about a foot long mounted on my poor old Jet mini..

Was the tool rest itself rotating, or the tool rest holder/banjo moving?

The former. The banjo locked solid and the tool rest rotated within the
banjo. I was using a scraping cut at about 4:00 (left handed) So there was
not just downward force on the rest, but a backward force near the end of
the rest. I do not own a curved rest and the geometry would not allow me to
get the rest into the hollow, so there was a fair amount of cantelever.


I've had to adjust the bolt under the bed rails a few times to keep the
banjo
locking tight..

You weren't using that POS tool rest extension, were you?

No, I've seen enough advice against that.

Regards,

Steve





--
Posted via a free Usenet account from http://www.teranews.com

On Tue, 23 Oct 2007 14:55:03 -0500, Steve Russell
wrote:

Some good ideas, Steve, but I'll settle for just the cement surface for now..

They wanted to make it really smooth.. they're fanatics about that here, but I
actually had them rough it up a bit..

It's outside and basically for the flatwork tools, which I don't use much..

The lathes, work bench, band saw and hand tools are all inside in the shop..

It just got to be too much of a hassle rolling tools around on the "packed red
dirt"... the surface loosened up and holes started forming...
It's really ads excitement to using the CMS when a wheel falls into a hole
during a cut...

Useless background info:

When we bought our lots in Baja, we paid a bit more to be in the "multi-use"
area... Translation is that you can keep an RV there, where most of the area has
a 30 day limit for them.. the CC&R's used to say that if you keep an RV, it has
to be under cover in a structure matching the house, so when we were designing
the house we included an RV carport..
They gave us 3 options for the carport floor, red dirt, gravel and cement...
Cement being the most expensive, at $5,000...
No way was I going to pay that much to park a little 28' trailer on, so we went
with red dirt..
Then, we found out that the CC&R's had changed to "and a 2nd RV, if covered",
which meant that our trailer didn't HAVE to be in the carport...
Parking it on the other side of the RV hookup gave us a 15 x 40' covered patio
with a 12' roof.. perfect place to put all the "messy" tools, since the shop is
in the house..


Hello Mac,

Sounds like you made the best choice... Congrats on your new shop floor! You
might want to consider adding epoxy floor paint to your new floor when it
has cured. I did this to my studio floor and it was the best money I ever
spent. Not only is it easier to clean than bare concrete, but spills just
wipe up, engine oil will not stain it either. :-)

It's not that hard to do it yourself if you're interested. I purchased the
epoxy paint for about $50.00 per gallon, with a few gallons of epoxy
thinner. After power washing the floor, I applied a dilute acid (wearing a
special respirator) to acid etch the floor surface for better adhesion of
the epoxy. After that fully dried (I waited two days, with fans blowing
across it), I applied a sealer coat of epoxy. This is the regular epoxy cut
50/50 with epoxy thinner and applied it with a disposable roller.

Once that cured (a day or so), I applied a base coat of epoxy (regular epoxy
paint cut 80/20 epoxy to thinner) and let that cure for two days. Two more
coats of the base epoxy paint, a few days apart, followed by a final coat
cut 10%. It was not much work, but it took about two weeks to fully
complete. Most of the time was just spent waiting for the epoxy to cure.

My studio is 30' x 30' and I used light grey epoxy. It was well worth the
effort. I have even burned rubber with a car (don't ask) on the cured floor
and the epoxy has never lifted. In fact, you can just wipe the rubber away.
:-) The best time to coat your floor is when it's new (must be cured first
though) as once you start putting everything inside, you will probably never
get around to it again.

There is also some silica available that you can add to the epoxy to make it
less slippery. I did not add this when I did my floor as I thought this
would make it harder to clean. The only time the floor is slippery is when
it's wet, but that's not too often. I give it a good moping with straight
bleach (wearing a respirator) about once every two years and it looks brand
new again. Amazing stuff... Take care and best wishes to you as you build
your new shop! Take care.


mac

Please remove splinters before emailing

It never ceases to amaze me that people will pay several hundred thousand
dollars to have someone else tell them how to live. Maybe this is an out
dated idea but, my parents taught me how to take care of myself.

"Steve Russell" wrote in message
.. .
Hello Mac,

I feel your pain on the CC&R's... Around here, you have to get permission
to
breathe. :-o Everything is closely regulated and to do almost anything,
you
have to fill out forms, get committee approval and then permits, etc...

If they don't like something, you get the whole package back and you get
to
start all over again. It can take weeks, or months to get some things
approved. Sounds like you've got everything covered. Best wishes to you in
all of your woodturning and woodworking endeavours!

On Wed, 24 Oct 2007 14:05:35 -0500, Steve Russell
wrote:

Hello Mac,

I feel your pain on the CC&R's... Around here, you have to get permission to
breathe. :-o Everything is closely regulated and to do almost anything, you
have to fill out forms, get committee approval and then permits, etc...

If they don't like something, you get the whole package back and you get to
start all over again. It can take weeks, or months to get some things
approved. Sounds like you've got everything covered. Best wishes to you in
all of your woodturning and woodworking endeavours!

Thanks, Steve...

I hated CC&R's in the states, but appreciate them here... In the older areas,
there are every kind of "homes" imaginable.. 1 story, 2 story, trailers,
trailers with ramada and Baja room, etc....

We're in the "newer" area and have both sea and mountain views, and unlike the
older areas, have a 15' height and 5,000 sq ft restriction to maintain
everyone's view..
I'd be really ****ed if someone built a 2 or 3 story mega house between the sea
and my shop windows..


mac

Please remove splinters before emailing

On Wed, 24 Oct 2007 17:59:40 -0700, "CW" wrote:

It never ceases to amaze me that people will pay several hundred thousand
dollars to have someone else tell them how to live. Maybe this is an out
dated idea but, my parents taught me how to take care of myself.

I used to feel that way until I moved to Mexico... there are lots of areas here
where folks can builds whatever they want, and that's cool... But we chose this
place partly because we knew that buildings and traffic would be controlled and
that we could do our RV and shop thing without being hassled..

I took pretty much all we had to buy two 30,000 lots and build a $150,000 house,
(no financing here, all cash), and I'd hate someone with lots of bucks building
a huge duplex or something next door...
Folks go crazy here because of cheap building costs... there are several home
near the sea that are 10,000 sf or more.. like anyone needs that much space..lol


mac

Please remove splinters before emailing

"Steve Russell" wrote in message
.. .
Hello Mac,

I know what you mean. I grumble occasionally about the red tape and
paperwork, but I'm glad I live where I do... It's strict here, but that
keeps the character of the area intact.

Plastic.

I live in a master planned community
and it's been a wonderful place to live for the last 13 years.

If you say so, Comrad.


While it might be nice to live in an area where you can do and build
whatever you want (as the other poster mentioned), I prefer to live in an
area that protects the look and style of the area over time. Besides, if
you're in a "do as you wish" area, someone might move in next to you and
open a pig farm...

That's what zoning laws are for. Not good enough for the truly paranoid
though.

Why anybody would want to live in beanerland is beyond me.

"mac davis" wrote in message
news
On Wed, 24 Oct 2007 17:59:40 -0700, "CW" wrote:

It never ceases to amaze me that people will pay several hundred thousand
dollars to have someone else tell them how to live. Maybe this is an out
dated idea but, my parents taught me how to take care of myself.

I used to feel that way until I moved to Mexico... there are lots of areas
here
where folks can builds whatever they want, and that's cool... But we chose
this
place partly because we knew that buildings and traffic would be
controlled and
that we could do our RV and shop thing without being hassled..

I took pretty much all we had to buy two 30,000 lots and build a $150,000
house,
(no financing here, all cash), and I'd hate someone with lots of bucks
building
a huge duplex or something next door...
Folks go crazy here because of cheap building costs... there are several
home
near the sea that are 10,000 sf or more.. like anyone needs that much
space..lol


mac

Please remove splinters before emailing

On Sat, 27 Oct 2007 17:33:15 -0700, CW wrote:

Why anybody would want to live in beanerland is beyond me.

Do I smell a troll? And a redneck one at that :-).

On Sat, 27 Oct 2007 17:33:15 -0700, "CW" wrote:

Why anybody would want to live in beanerland is beyond me.

I guess that's why they make paint in more than one color...
Bigots have lives too, I guess.....


"mac davis" wrote in message
news
On Wed, 24 Oct 2007 17:59:40 -0700, "CW" wrote:

It never ceases to amaze me that people will pay several hundred thousand
dollars to have someone else tell them how to live. Maybe this is an out
dated idea but, my parents taught me how to take care of myself.

I used to feel that way until I moved to Mexico... there are lots of areas
here
where folks can builds whatever they want, and that's cool... But we chose
this
place partly because we knew that buildings and traffic would be
controlled and
that we could do our RV and shop thing without being hassled..

I took pretty much all we had to buy two 30,000 lots and build a $150,000
house,
(no financing here, all cash), and I'd hate someone with lots of bucks
building
a huge duplex or something next door...
Folks go crazy here because of cheap building costs... there are several
home
near the sea that are 10,000 sf or more.. like anyone needs that much
space..lol


mac

Please remove splinters before emailing



mac

Please remove splinters before emailing

In article ,
Larry Blanchard wrote:

On Sat, 27 Oct 2007 17:33:15 -0700, CW wrote:

Why anybody would want to live in beanerland is beyond me.

Do I smell a troll? And a redneck one at that :-).

Just someone that almost -never- posts anything helpful, useful, or asks
related questions (check the posting history)

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