DVR XP
Anyone using this beast?
How good a unit is it? Any drawbacks? |
DVR XP
In article MSaRi.15421$G25.14167@edtnps89,
wrote: Anyone using this beast? How good a unit is it? Any drawbacks? Yes, reasonable quality, mine had some minor fit and finish issues, quickly resolved. There are some reports that the percentage of poor quality units has increased with the move to China -- -------------------------------------------------------- Personal e-mail is the n7bsn but at amsat.org This posting address is a spam-trap and seldom read RV and Camping FAQ can be found at http://www.ralphandellen.us/rv |
DVR XP
On Wed, 17 Oct 2007 08:24:23 -0500, Steve Russell
wrote: Hello, I used a DVR-XP extensively when I was demonstrating woodturning at The Woodworking Shows. I found it to be a very capable lathe, although I would have preferred a dial to change the speed, in lieu of the buttons on the controller (a minor nit pick). My unit was mounted to a steel stand and I quickly found out that it was difficult to clean under the bedway (in the centre of the rails) because of the amount of clearance under the unit. If you have an air compressor, you could easily just blow it out after each use, but when I was on the road demonstrating it was always a problem (another minor nit pick). The only other thing I noticed was the bedways... I would have liked to see more mass in the bedways, given the capacity of this lathe and the amount of forces that would be generated when turning items near the capacity of the unit. Although the size and mass of the bedways were increased over the previous Nova lathe model, I still would have liked to have seen some more "beef" in the bedway section. In turning, the XP had ample power for the pieces I was turning and it performed very well, with very good torque - even when taking large cuts in green wood bowls with an Irish ground bowl gouge. In its price range, it's definitely worth a look. Take care and all the best to you and yours! Steve.. I've been considering this lathe as a move up from my jet 1442vs.. I like the lathe on paper and appreciate the belt-less drive and all.. My question is on low speed.. the ads all say 100 to 3,000 rpm or whatever and I was wondering why they'd limit it that way, when other digital lathes state low speed at zero?? mac Please remove splinters before emailing |
DVR XP
I am not sure if this is true or not, but... I heard that this Nova
when turned off, the speed goes back to zero automatically. I think this is a wonderful safety feature. It has led to me using the variable speed knob on my PM to turn it off and on when I turn, and the on/off knob to turn the lathe off at the end of a turning session. How many times have you turned your lathe on with the speed set too high because you forgot? robo hippy On Oct 17, 9:00 am, mac davis wrote: On Wed, 17 Oct 2007 08:24:23 -0500, Steve Russell wrote: Hello, I used a DVR-XP extensively when I was demonstrating woodturning at The Woodworking Shows. I found it to be a very capable lathe, although I would have preferred a dial to change the speed, in lieu of the buttons on the controller (a minor nit pick). My unit was mounted to a steel stand and I quickly found out that it was difficult to clean under the bedway (in the centre of the rails) because of the amount of clearance under the unit. If you have an air compressor, you could easily just blow it out after each use, but when I was on the road demonstrating it was always a problem (another minor nit pick). The only other thing I noticed was the bedways... I would have liked to see more mass in the bedways, given the capacity of this lathe and the amount of forces that would be generated when turning items near the capacity of the unit. Although the size and mass of the bedways were increased over the previous Nova lathe model, I still would have liked to have seen some more "beef" in the bedway section. In turning, the XP had ample power for the pieces I was turning and it performed very well, with very good torque - even when taking large cuts in green wood bowls with an Irish ground bowl gouge. In its price range, it's definitely worth a look. Take care and all the best to you and yours! Steve.. I've been considering this lathe as a move up from my jet 1442vs.. I like the lathe on paper and appreciate the belt-less drive and all.. My question is on low speed.. the ads all say 100 to 3,000 rpm or whatever and I was wondering why they'd limit it that way, when other digital lathes state low speed at zero?? mac Please remove splinters before emailing |
DVR XP
"mac davis" wrote in message ... Steve.. I've been considering this lathe as a move up from my jet 1442vs.. I like the lathe on paper and appreciate the belt-less drive and all.. My question is on low speed.. the ads all say 100 to 3,000 rpm or whatever and I was wondering why they'd limit it that way, when other digital lathes state low speed at zero?? There's always the source www.teknatool.com and the downloadable manual. Also has the copy from the FWW test http://www.teknatool.com/products/La... pril%2007.pdf which certainly found no fault with the fit/finish. http://groups.msn.com/NovaOwners is another place to check. I've got the 300 with the bed Steve thought should be beefed up and the silly-looking tailstock they began with. Looks like the Stubby type. I swing capacity over the bed no problems, so I think it's perception, not reality. As to the speed, remember a reluctance motor is a bit different than an induction type, which doesn't make much torque at 2 rpm, BTW. You want oomph at low end the DC types are your meat. |
DVR XP
"robo hippy" wrote in message oups.com... I am not sure if this is true or not, but... I heard that this Nova when turned off, the speed goes back to zero automatically. I think this is a wonderful safety feature. It has led to me using the variable speed knob on my PM to turn it off and on when I turn, and the on/off knob to turn the lathe off at the end of a turning session. How many times have you turned your lathe on with the speed set too high because you forgot? robo hippy you will only turn it on with the speed too high one or two times, and then you learn to check - if you don't learn to check, a flying piece of wood will teach you -- Posted via a free Usenet account from http://www.teranews.com |
DVR XP
In article .com,
robo hippy wrote: I am not sure if this is true or not, but... I heard that this Nova when turned off, the speed goes back to zero automatically. I think this is a wonderful safety feature. It has led to me using the variable speed knob on my PM to turn it off and on when I turn, and the on/off knob to turn the lathe off at the end of a turning session. How many times have you turned your lathe on with the speed set too high because you forgot? robo hippy Actually it resets to 500 rpm, which I do love. I can echo much of Steve's other comments though. One thing I am getting ready to do, mine is too low, so I am going to raise it, by putting blocks between the lathe and the (home brew) stand. This will allow me to better clear the chips out of the ways. My stand also has a sand box at the bottom to add weight -- -------------------------------------------------------- Personal e-mail is the n7bsn but at amsat.org This posting address is a spam-trap and seldom read RV and Camping FAQ can be found at http://www.ralphandellen.us/rv |
DVR XP
On Wed, 17 Oct 2007 09:19:21 -0700, robo hippy wrote:
I am not sure if this is true or not, but... I heard that this Nova when turned off, the speed goes back to zero automatically. I think this is a wonderful safety feature. It has led to me using the variable speed knob on my PM to turn it off and on when I turn, and the on/off knob to turn the lathe off at the end of a turning session. How many times have you turned your lathe on with the speed set too high because you forgot? robo hippy Not me, Reed... I've never started the lathe with a bowl blank on it after buffing something at 1,900 rpm.. at least not that I'll admit.. mac Please remove splinters before emailing |
DVR XP
Hey Mr Hippy, You mentioned something that I've wondered about, ie.
leaving my Leeson controller switches on. Does using the speed control as an on-off switch during a turning session do any harm and why does the control need both a run switch and a power switch? I guess to start up where I left off, but wouldn't the power switch do the same since there is no default to zero rpm? Something to do with the electronics? Turn to Safety, Arch Fortiter http://community.webtv.net/almcc/MacsMusings |
DVR XP
Arch wrote:
Hey Mr Hippy, You mentioned something that I've wondered about, ie. leaving my Leeson controller switches on. Does using the speed control as an on-off switch during a turning session do any harm and why does the control need both a run switch and a power switch? I guess to start up where I left off, but wouldn't the power switch do the same since there is no default to zero rpm? Something to do with the electronics? Turn to Safety, Arch Fortiter http://community.webtv.net/almcc/MacsMusings Not Hippy, but if you stop with the button, it restarts at the same speed. If you turn the switch off, when you turn it back on it beeps a burbles awhile like a computer booting up, then is ready to run at the default second set speed. My second speed is 450(I changed it from 500) the first default set is 250, the third 750. It comes with five default set speeds, but you can use the up and down buttons to change in increments of 5 rpm. I love that on roughing out because I just hold the down button until the shimmy stops. As the piece is evened out rounder I can gradually speed it up to make the cutting faster. -- Gerald Ross Cochran, GA There's nothing wrong with Southern California that a rise in the ocean level wouldn't cure. |
DVR XP
On Wed, 17 Oct 2007 22:24:53 -0700, "William Noble" wrote:
"robo hippy" wrote in message roups.com... I am not sure if this is true or not, but... I heard that this Nova when turned off, the speed goes back to zero automatically. I think this is a wonderful safety feature. It has led to me using the variable speed knob on my PM to turn it off and on when I turn, and the on/off knob to turn the lathe off at the end of a turning session. How many times have you turned your lathe on with the speed set too high because you forgot? robo hippy you will only turn it on with the speed too high one or two times, and then you learn to check - if you don't learn to check, a flying piece of wood will teach you Yep.. the definition of experience is "recognizing your mistakes when you repeat them" mac Please remove splinters before emailing |
DVR XP
"Steve Russell" wrote in message .. . Hello George, I was actually referring to their latest DVR-XP model, not the earlier Nova 3000 model (that also needed more beef in the bedway, IMHO and a better tailstock) when I mentioned I thought the bedway needed more "beef". :-) While it's true that the latest model benefited from a redesign of the bedways that included a flared out design with increased mass, I still think it could use some more weight in the bedways. Of course, I'm from Texas and we like everything big! :-) Take care and all the best to you and yours! Still remember the sign in a greasy spoon in Anchorage which proclaimed "Pie $2.50. Texas size $1.00." The non-beefed rails have plenty rigidity for me, but I don't hack at rough pieces and strain the system, I peel wood. Those prone to mounting severely out-of-balance and out-of-round pieces and stuffing a tool into the rotation might find the banjo is weaker than the bed. Speeds below the 100 rpm rate are almost more trouble than they're worth, because you have to concentrate on steady tool position to keep it from following your push into a low spot and getting whacked by the next high rather than normal swing and pare. I find the 360 setting to be just about the lower limit for "normal" cutting. Guy with a bandsaw should find little need for anything below 200 cutting over the bed, where the "beef" comes into play. Fortunately I elevated my bed on 1.5" pads above the tabletop, because I was sick and tired of having to use a hook to drag clumps of shavings out from underneath. I have to be really lazy about cleanout, and be spindle turning or hollowing before I get into a shaving pack situation now. Ol' Blue taught me a lot of things! |
DVR XP
On Fri, 19 Oct 2007 09:42:36 -0500, Steve Russell
wrote: Hello Mac. Apologies for the lathe reply... We're shooting a new DVD video and every spare moment is spent in the studio shooting video... That's a good question... I'm not sure of the answer, but it might have to do with how the Digital Variable Reluctance motor is configured and constructed. Obviously, having the ability to go lower than 100 RPM is desirable when mounting larger imbalanced blanks, but there are ways around this if you have a blank that causes too much vibration at the 100RPM speed limit. I would not let that particular fact stop me from purchasing this lathe, but it should be factored into your decision if you plan on doing work near the capacity of the lathe and you anticipate routinely mounting imbalanced pieces. Thanks, Steve... I received an email from the manufacturer confirming the 100 low speed.. Nothing I do now requires that low a speed for turning, but some woods like to be sanded slower.. probably not THAT slow, but on a large diameter bowl, the 450 rpm on my Jet seems like 1,000 on the outer edge.. *g* It's really hard to justify spending that much for a lathe when my 1442 does everything I need.. but the design and such sure make me want to part with the bucks.. OTOH, it's not like there are a bunch of buyers for used lathes here in Baja.. and even if someone was interested, I'm not sure that I'd want to get competition started.. ;-] mac Please remove splinters before emailing |
DVR XP
Mac,
FWIW, I pushed my 1442 to about capacity for the first time this weekend. I had 2 black locust crotch blanks almost 15" diameter and about 5" thick, very wet. Since it was a tad greater than the 14" swing, I just rotated the head and 90 degrees and did it all outboard (no tailstock assist) with the banjo on the left of the headstock. I has careful to get it as balanced as possible at the BS first. I thought that was a lot of wood for a mid-sized lathe but it handled it pretty well. 450rpm was surprisingly unscary. The only thing that was a bit anoying was that the tool rest would not stay locked (it would rotate a bit) when I worked with a downward angle on the interior. I'm sure that I could fix that by tweaking either the tool or my technique if i did that on a regular basis. Anyway, my lathe is a supplement to my flatwork, not the center of my woodworking world. I was pleasantly surprised that the tool could function reasonably well at it's theoretical capacity. If I am limited to 15" or so, that seems pretty reasonable for a less than "pro" lathe. regards, Steve "mac davis" wrote in message ... On Fri, 19 Oct 2007 09:42:36 -0500, Steve Russell wrote: Hello Mac. Apologies for the lathe reply... We're shooting a new DVD video and every spare moment is spent in the studio shooting video... That's a good question... I'm not sure of the answer, but it might have to do with how the Digital Variable Reluctance motor is configured and constructed. Obviously, having the ability to go lower than 100 RPM is desirable when mounting larger imbalanced blanks, but there are ways around this if you have a blank that causes too much vibration at the 100RPM speed limit. I would not let that particular fact stop me from purchasing this lathe, but it should be factored into your decision if you plan on doing work near the capacity of the lathe and you anticipate routinely mounting imbalanced pieces. Thanks, Steve... I received an email from the manufacturer confirming the 100 low speed.. Nothing I do now requires that low a speed for turning, but some woods like to be sanded slower.. probably not THAT slow, but on a large diameter bowl, the 450 rpm on my Jet seems like 1,000 on the outer edge.. *g* It's really hard to justify spending that much for a lathe when my 1442 does everything I need.. but the design and such sure make me want to part with the bucks.. OTOH, it's not like there are a bunch of buyers for used lathes here in Baja.. and even if someone was interested, I'm not sure that I'd want to get competition started.. ;-] mac Please remove splinters before emailing -- Posted via a free Usenet account from http://www.teranews.com |
DVR XP
Thanks everyone for your input. We just had a wood show up here, and I
bought the DVRXP. I got the outrigger, bed extention, and cast iron stand for about $2,700 plus taxes. Now I have to put it all together, hope I have all the nuts and bolts.( There is always one missing :) ) wrote in message news:MSaRi.15421$G25.14167@edtnps89... Anyone using this beast? How good a unit is it? Any drawbacks? |
DVR XP
On Mon, 22 Oct 2007 07:17:22 -0400, "Stephen M"
wrote: Mac, FWIW, I pushed my 1442 to about capacity for the first time this weekend. I had 2 black locust crotch blanks almost 15" diameter and about 5" thick, very wet. Since it was a tad greater than the 14" swing, I just rotated the head and 90 degrees and did it all outboard (no tailstock assist) with the banjo on the left of the headstock. I has careful to get it as balanced as possible at the BS first. I thought that was a lot of wood for a mid-sized lathe but it handled it pretty well. 450rpm was surprisingly unscary. The only thing that was a bit anoying was that the tool rest would not stay locked (it would rotate a bit) when I worked with a downward angle on the interior. I'm sure that I could fix that by tweaking either the tool or my technique if i did that on a regular basis. Anyway, my lathe is a supplement to my flatwork, not the center of my woodworking world. I was pleasantly surprised that the tool could function reasonably well at it's theoretical capacity. If I am limited to 15" or so, that seems pretty reasonable for a less than "pro" lathe. regards, Steve WOW! That would scare the hell out of me, Steve.. Both the idea of something that big hanging off the lathe, and possible side force on the headstock bearings.. I was told here to use the tailstock whenever I could on stuff like that to minimize side thrust of whatever.. Actually, as I remember it now, it was when I posted pictures of a 10" round chunk of plum about a foot long mounted on my poor old Jet mini.. Was the tool rest itself rotating, or the tool rest holder/banjo moving? I've had to adjust the bolt under the bed rails a few times to keep the banjo locking tight.. You weren't using that POS tool rest extension, were you? mac Please remove splinters before emailing |
DVR XP
On Mon, 22 Oct 2007 10:34:39 -0500, Steve Russell
wrote: Steve.. I made my choice last week.... I could have dug up about $3,000 to get a DVR and accessories, or $3,200 to have the RV carport that I use for the outdoor shop cemented.. The Jet needs some maintenance, but is fine for my business, so the DVR would be a fun toy.. The contractor came down to $2,400 to dig out the red dirt and pour a 4" slab, (15 x 40"), so I can roll my tools around, and it seemed like a no-brainer to go for the home improvement.. Now, If one of the pen orders I've got bids out on come in, maybe a new toy will be in order.. ; -] BTW: Since moving to Mexico, I no longer have the problem of large, uneven stuff to turn... wood is kinda scarce here, especially green.. Back in the States, where we had lots of large logs to play with, if I couldn't get it pretty true with the chain saw and band saw before it went on the lathe, I usually used you method of letting the heavy part revolve down.. then went at it with a recip saw with a real ugly 8" Dewalt blade in it.. Hello Mac, I know what you mean about the rim speed... Try roughing a 46" platter at 150 RPM. The rim is *cooking* to say the least. I like to call it NASCAR turning. :-o I did a few 42" bowls not long ago on my outbound side and the air flow coming off them made it seem like I was standing in front of a high-velocity fan... As for your current lathe... Sounds like you can keep it for a while at least. Maybe you can spend the difference on some sweet tools. :-) Also, if you do happen to mount an imbalanced piece on the lathe, you can easily remove some of the weight by using a power carver like the Arbortech, or even an electric chainsaw to lop off a bit here and there. Since the lathe will automatically rotate the heavy side to the bottom of the spindle, it's a simple matter to perform a rough balance on the piece to help you have an easier time when roughing. If you really get into working near your capacity, there are balancing chucks you can buy (I have the Kel McNaughton Balancer) that will allow you to move weights to specific areas around the spindle to offset for imbalanced loads. Kel's balancer has 2, (5) pound weights that are independently moveable in a 360 degree radius to balance loads on the chuck/spindle. I use it when working with larger pieces and with off-centre pieces. Works like a charm! If I can ever help you, please do not hesitate to contact me. Take care and all the best to you and yours! -- Better Woodturning and Finishing Through Chemistry... Steven D. Russell Eurowood Werks Woodturning Studio, The Woodlands, Texas Machinery, Tool and Product Testing for the Woodworking and Woodturning Industries Website: http://www.woodturningvideosplus.com Free Monthly Woodturning Newsletter * Your email is kept confidential Sign up at: http://www.woodturningvideosplus.com/lathe-talk.html mac Please remove splinters before emailing |
DVR XP
On Mon, 22 Oct 2007 20:05:09 GMT, wrote:
Thanks everyone for your input. We just had a wood show up here, and I bought the DVRXP. I got the outrigger, bed extention, and cast iron stand for about $2,700 plus taxes. Now I have to put it all together, hope I have all the nuts and bolts.( There is always one missing :) ) Cool... Let us know how you like it... mac Please remove splinters before emailing |
DVR XP
Both the idea of something that big hanging off the lathe, and possible
side force on the headstock bearings.. I was told here to use the tailstock whenever I could on stuff like that to minimize side thrust of whatever.. Perhaps not the best practice but I was kind of curious to see if it could be done without chaging my shorts. That's why I felt compelled to post; it worked despite my doubtful expectations. Actually, as I remember it now, it was when I posted pictures of a 10" round chunk of plum about a foot long mounted on my poor old Jet mini.. Was the tool rest itself rotating, or the tool rest holder/banjo moving? The former. The banjo locked solid and the tool rest rotated within the banjo. I was using a scraping cut at about 4:00 (left handed) So there was not just downward force on the rest, but a backward force near the end of the rest. I do not own a curved rest and the geometry would not allow me to get the rest into the hollow, so there was a fair amount of cantelever. I've had to adjust the bolt under the bed rails a few times to keep the banjo locking tight.. You weren't using that POS tool rest extension, were you? No, I've seen enough advice against that. Regards, Steve -- Posted via a free Usenet account from http://www.teranews.com |
DVR XP
On Tue, 23 Oct 2007 14:55:03 -0500, Steve Russell
wrote: Some good ideas, Steve, but I'll settle for just the cement surface for now.. They wanted to make it really smooth.. they're fanatics about that here, but I actually had them rough it up a bit.. It's outside and basically for the flatwork tools, which I don't use much.. The lathes, work bench, band saw and hand tools are all inside in the shop.. It just got to be too much of a hassle rolling tools around on the "packed red dirt"... the surface loosened up and holes started forming... It's really ads excitement to using the CMS when a wheel falls into a hole during a cut... Useless background info: When we bought our lots in Baja, we paid a bit more to be in the "multi-use" area... Translation is that you can keep an RV there, where most of the area has a 30 day limit for them.. the CC&R's used to say that if you keep an RV, it has to be under cover in a structure matching the house, so when we were designing the house we included an RV carport.. They gave us 3 options for the carport floor, red dirt, gravel and cement... Cement being the most expensive, at $5,000... No way was I going to pay that much to park a little 28' trailer on, so we went with red dirt.. Then, we found out that the CC&R's had changed to "and a 2nd RV, if covered", which meant that our trailer didn't HAVE to be in the carport... Parking it on the other side of the RV hookup gave us a 15 x 40' covered patio with a 12' roof.. perfect place to put all the "messy" tools, since the shop is in the house.. Hello Mac, Sounds like you made the best choice... Congrats on your new shop floor! You might want to consider adding epoxy floor paint to your new floor when it has cured. I did this to my studio floor and it was the best money I ever spent. Not only is it easier to clean than bare concrete, but spills just wipe up, engine oil will not stain it either. :-) It's not that hard to do it yourself if you're interested. I purchased the epoxy paint for about $50.00 per gallon, with a few gallons of epoxy thinner. After power washing the floor, I applied a dilute acid (wearing a special respirator) to acid etch the floor surface for better adhesion of the epoxy. After that fully dried (I waited two days, with fans blowing across it), I applied a sealer coat of epoxy. This is the regular epoxy cut 50/50 with epoxy thinner and applied it with a disposable roller. Once that cured (a day or so), I applied a base coat of epoxy (regular epoxy paint cut 80/20 epoxy to thinner) and let that cure for two days. Two more coats of the base epoxy paint, a few days apart, followed by a final coat cut 10%. It was not much work, but it took about two weeks to fully complete. Most of the time was just spent waiting for the epoxy to cure. My studio is 30' x 30' and I used light grey epoxy. It was well worth the effort. I have even burned rubber with a car (don't ask) on the cured floor and the epoxy has never lifted. In fact, you can just wipe the rubber away. :-) The best time to coat your floor is when it's new (must be cured first though) as once you start putting everything inside, you will probably never get around to it again. There is also some silica available that you can add to the epoxy to make it less slippery. I did not add this when I did my floor as I thought this would make it harder to clean. The only time the floor is slippery is when it's wet, but that's not too often. I give it a good moping with straight bleach (wearing a respirator) about once every two years and it looks brand new again. Amazing stuff... Take care and best wishes to you as you build your new shop! Take care. mac Please remove splinters before emailing |
DVR XP
It never ceases to amaze me that people will pay several hundred thousand
dollars to have someone else tell them how to live. Maybe this is an out dated idea but, my parents taught me how to take care of myself. "Steve Russell" wrote in message .. . Hello Mac, I feel your pain on the CC&R's... Around here, you have to get permission to breathe. :-o Everything is closely regulated and to do almost anything, you have to fill out forms, get committee approval and then permits, etc... If they don't like something, you get the whole package back and you get to start all over again. It can take weeks, or months to get some things approved. Sounds like you've got everything covered. Best wishes to you in all of your woodturning and woodworking endeavours! |
DVR XP
On Wed, 24 Oct 2007 14:05:35 -0500, Steve Russell
wrote: Hello Mac, I feel your pain on the CC&R's... Around here, you have to get permission to breathe. :-o Everything is closely regulated and to do almost anything, you have to fill out forms, get committee approval and then permits, etc... If they don't like something, you get the whole package back and you get to start all over again. It can take weeks, or months to get some things approved. Sounds like you've got everything covered. Best wishes to you in all of your woodturning and woodworking endeavours! Thanks, Steve... I hated CC&R's in the states, but appreciate them here... In the older areas, there are every kind of "homes" imaginable.. 1 story, 2 story, trailers, trailers with ramada and Baja room, etc.... We're in the "newer" area and have both sea and mountain views, and unlike the older areas, have a 15' height and 5,000 sq ft restriction to maintain everyone's view.. I'd be really ****ed if someone built a 2 or 3 story mega house between the sea and my shop windows.. mac Please remove splinters before emailing |
DVR XP
On Wed, 24 Oct 2007 17:59:40 -0700, "CW" wrote:
It never ceases to amaze me that people will pay several hundred thousand dollars to have someone else tell them how to live. Maybe this is an out dated idea but, my parents taught me how to take care of myself. I used to feel that way until I moved to Mexico... there are lots of areas here where folks can builds whatever they want, and that's cool... But we chose this place partly because we knew that buildings and traffic would be controlled and that we could do our RV and shop thing without being hassled.. I took pretty much all we had to buy two 30,000 lots and build a $150,000 house, (no financing here, all cash), and I'd hate someone with lots of bucks building a huge duplex or something next door... Folks go crazy here because of cheap building costs... there are several home near the sea that are 10,000 sf or more.. like anyone needs that much space..lol mac Please remove splinters before emailing |
DVR XP
"Steve Russell" wrote in message .. . Hello Mac, I know what you mean. I grumble occasionally about the red tape and paperwork, but I'm glad I live where I do... It's strict here, but that keeps the character of the area intact. Plastic. I live in a master planned community and it's been a wonderful place to live for the last 13 years. If you say so, Comrad. While it might be nice to live in an area where you can do and build whatever you want (as the other poster mentioned), I prefer to live in an area that protects the look and style of the area over time. Besides, if you're in a "do as you wish" area, someone might move in next to you and open a pig farm... That's what zoning laws are for. Not good enough for the truly paranoid though. |
DVR XP
Why anybody would want to live in beanerland is beyond me.
"mac davis" wrote in message ... On Wed, 24 Oct 2007 17:59:40 -0700, "CW" wrote: It never ceases to amaze me that people will pay several hundred thousand dollars to have someone else tell them how to live. Maybe this is an out dated idea but, my parents taught me how to take care of myself. I used to feel that way until I moved to Mexico... there are lots of areas here where folks can builds whatever they want, and that's cool... But we chose this place partly because we knew that buildings and traffic would be controlled and that we could do our RV and shop thing without being hassled.. I took pretty much all we had to buy two 30,000 lots and build a $150,000 house, (no financing here, all cash), and I'd hate someone with lots of bucks building a huge duplex or something next door... Folks go crazy here because of cheap building costs... there are several home near the sea that are 10,000 sf or more.. like anyone needs that much space..lol mac Please remove splinters before emailing |
DVR XP
On Sat, 27 Oct 2007 17:33:15 -0700, CW wrote:
Why anybody would want to live in beanerland is beyond me. Do I smell a troll? And a redneck one at that :-). |
DVR XP
On Sat, 27 Oct 2007 17:33:15 -0700, "CW" wrote:
Why anybody would want to live in beanerland is beyond me. I guess that's why they make paint in more than one color... Bigots have lives too, I guess..... "mac davis" wrote in message .. . On Wed, 24 Oct 2007 17:59:40 -0700, "CW" wrote: It never ceases to amaze me that people will pay several hundred thousand dollars to have someone else tell them how to live. Maybe this is an out dated idea but, my parents taught me how to take care of myself. I used to feel that way until I moved to Mexico... there are lots of areas here where folks can builds whatever they want, and that's cool... But we chose this place partly because we knew that buildings and traffic would be controlled and that we could do our RV and shop thing without being hassled.. I took pretty much all we had to buy two 30,000 lots and build a $150,000 house, (no financing here, all cash), and I'd hate someone with lots of bucks building a huge duplex or something next door... Folks go crazy here because of cheap building costs... there are several home near the sea that are 10,000 sf or more.. like anyone needs that much space..lol mac Please remove splinters before emailing mac Please remove splinters before emailing |
DVR XP
In article ,
Larry Blanchard wrote: On Sat, 27 Oct 2007 17:33:15 -0700, CW wrote: Why anybody would want to live in beanerland is beyond me. Do I smell a troll? And a redneck one at that :-). Just someone that almost -never- posts anything helpful, useful, or asks related questions (check the posting history) -- -------------------------------------------------------- Personal e-mail is the n7bsn but at amsat.org This posting address is a spam-trap and seldom read RV and Camping FAQ can be found at http://www.ralphandellen.us/rv |
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