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Joining a co-axial cable
I need to cut and re-join a co-axial TV aerial cable but I've no idea what
tools and connectors I'll need. I might also need a bit of cable to connect the two ends but there's a lot of different types of cable and I haven't the foggiest when it comes to co-ax. Everything will be in a damp, cold environment. I also wanted to fit a wall plate connector and make up a short length of cable from the TV to the wall but wall plates with back boxes don't exist for some reason. Any advice? TIA. -- john "Technology is dominated by two types of people: those who understand what they do not manage, and those who manage what they do not understand." - Putt's Law |
#2
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Joining a co-axial cable
Sneezy wrote:
I need to cut and re-join a co-axial TV aerial cable but I've no idea what tools and connectors I'll need. I might also need a bit of cable to connect I would suggest you use two F-Plugs (these make a much better connection than the normal Belling Lee type of aerial plugs), and a Female/Female F-socket joiner. You will also need some self amalgamating tape. F-plugs are very easy to fit if you get the twist on ones. Once fitted to the cable they then screw into the f coupler so there is no chance of it pulling apart. Finally cocoon it in self amalgamating tape - that will ensure it is water proof. Maplin order codes: FU04E, FE92A, KW29G the two ends but there's a lot of different types of cable and I haven't the foggiest when it comes to co-ax. Everything will be in a damp, cold If you want the best quality co-ax then look for CT100 or compatible cable (in addition to the usual braided screen it also has a foil screen and hence is much less susceptible to interference). Maplin, CPC, and Screwfix stock it. Maplin will sell it by the meter which may be better if you don't need much. Maplin order code XS16S environment. I also wanted to fit a wall plate connector and make up a short length of cable from the TV to the wall but wall plates with back boxes don't exist for some reason. Any advice? Most wall plates fit onto standard electrical accessory back boxes or "pattresses ". Maplin order code VW96E, YB15R If you are planning to use the TV aerial feed for digital TV (i.e. freeview) then make sure the socket you get is also fully screened. It is also easy enough to make your own using a female/female joining connector like that described above mounted in a hole drilled in an electrical accessory blanking plate (order code HL86T). You simply terminate the downlead in a f-plug - and connect it to the coupler inside the box (you may need to use a right angled f-plug to get it to fit inside the box). The connect your fly lead to the front of the box with another f-plug. -- Cheers, John. /================================================== ===============\ | Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk | |-----------------------------------------------------------------| | John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk | \================================================= ================/ |
#3
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Joining a co-axial cable
On Fri, 26 Mar 2004 02:33:45 +0000, Sneezy wrote:
I need to cut and re-join a co-axial TV aerial cable but I've no idea what tools and connectors I'll need. I might also need a bit of cable to connect the two ends but there's a lot of different types of cable and I haven't the foggiest when it comes to co-ax. Everything will be in a damp, cold environment. I also wanted to fit a wall plate connector and make up a short length of cable from the TV to the wall but wall plates with back boxes don't exist for some reason. Any advice? TIA. Maplins sell a coaxial joining connector. Much better than trying to solder inner and outer. Or put a coax plug on both ends and use an inline coupler. Dont be tempted as I have seen many times, to just twist the wire together or use choc block UGH!! HTH Dave -- And you were born knowing all about ms windows....?? |
#4
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Joining a co-axial cable
In article 24,
Sneezy wrote: I also wanted to fit a wall plate connector and make up a short length of cable from the TV to the wall but wall plates with back boxes don't exist for some reason. Any advice? Eh? Just about any wiring accessory maker lists TV and or FM aerial outlets to match their 13 amp sockets etc that fit a standard one gang box. Even the sheds stock them. -- *Cover me. I'm changing lanes. Dave Plowman London SW 12 RIP Acorn |
#5
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Joining a co-axial cable
John Rumm wrote in
: Sneezy wrote: I need to cut and re-join a co-axial TV aerial cable but I've no idea what tools and connectors I'll need. I might also need a bit of cable to connect I would suggest you use two F-Plugs (these make a much better connection than the normal Belling Lee type of aerial plugs), and a Female/Female F-socket joiner. You will also need some self amalgamating tape. F-plugs are very easy to fit if you get the twist on ones. Once fitted to the cable they then screw into the f coupler so there is no chance of it pulling apart. Finally cocoon it in self amalgamating tape - that will ensure it is water proof. Maplin order codes: FU04E, FE92A, KW29G the two ends but there's a lot of different types of cable and I haven't the foggiest when it comes to co-ax. Everything will be in a damp, cold If you want the best quality co-ax then look for CT100 or compatible cable (in addition to the usual braided screen it also has a foil screen and hence is much less susceptible to interference). Maplin, CPC, and Screwfix stock it. Maplin will sell it by the meter which may be better if you don't need much. Maplin order code XS16S environment. I also wanted to fit a wall plate connector and make up a short length of cable from the TV to the wall but wall plates with back boxes don't exist for some reason. Any advice? Most wall plates fit onto standard electrical accessory back boxes or "pattresses ". Maplin order code VW96E, YB15R If you are planning to use the TV aerial feed for digital TV (i.e. freeview) then make sure the socket you get is also fully screened. It is also easy enough to make your own using a female/female joining connector like that described above mounted in a hole drilled in an electrical accessory blanking plate (order code HL86T). You simply terminate the downlead in a f-plug - and connect it to the coupler inside the box (you may need to use a right angled f-plug to get it to fit inside the box). The connect your fly lead to the front of the box with another f-plug. Great - many thanks. -- john "Technology is dominated by two types of people: those who understand what they do not manage, and those who manage what they do not understand." - Putt's Law |
#6
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Joining a co-axial cable
Dave Plowman wrote in
: In article 24, Sneezy wrote: I also wanted to fit a wall plate connector and make up a short length of cable from the TV to the wall but wall plates with back boxes don't exist for some reason. Any advice? Eh? Just about any wiring accessory maker lists TV and or FM aerial outlets to match their 13 amp sockets etc that fit a standard one gang box. Even the sheds stock them. Yes but more often than not with online sites the plate and box are in different sections of the site and info on compatability is thin on the ground. I have a habit of buying things that don't fit DIY stores are too expensive - B & Q being a case in point: my mate had to buy 5m of wire when he only wanted 1. -- john "Technology is dominated by two types of people: those who understand what they do not manage, and those who manage what they do not understand." - Putt's Law |
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Joining a co-axial cable
In article 21,
Sneezy wrote: Yes but more often than not with online sites the plate and box are in different sections of the site and info on compatability is thin on the ground. If you mean the depth of the box, play it safe and use 35 mm deep boxes for everything - they make wiring easier, and are little different to chase in. I have a habit of buying things that don't fit DIY stores are too expensive - B & Q being a case in point: my mate had to buy 5m of wire when he only wanted 1. My local one sells most cables by the metre. But I tend to buy full drums of just about any cable - it gets used eventually. ;-) -- *Marathon runners with bad footwear suffer the agony of defeat.* Dave Plowman London SW 12 RIP Acorn |
#8
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Joining a co-axial cable
On Fri, 26 Mar 2004 20:07:09 +0000 (GMT), in uk.d-i-y Dave Plowman
strung together this: In article 21, Sneezy wrote: Yes but more often than not with online sites the plate and box are in different sections of the site and info on compatability is thin on the ground. If you mean the depth of the box, play it safe and use 35 mm deep boxes for everything - they make wiring easier, and are little different to chase in. 35mm is a little excessive for most things, they're usually reserved for use with cooker switches and the like. 25mm is suitable for sockets, tv points etc.. -- SJW A.C.S. Ltd. |
#9
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Joining a co-axial cable
In article ,
Lurch wrote: If you mean the depth of the box, play it safe and use 35 mm deep boxes for everything - they make wiring easier, and are little different to chase in. 35mm is a little excessive for most things, they're usually reserved for use with cooker switches and the like. 25mm is suitable for sockets, tv points etc.. While 1 inch may be suitable for most of these things at a pinch, deep boxes are usually easier to fix - especially to plasterboard, etc. And co-ax doesn't like being bent tightly. Also, there's far less chance of trapped wires with deep boxes - although this will depend to some extent on the make of fitting. -- *"I am " is reportedly the shortest sentence in the English language. * Dave Plowman London SW 12 RIP Acorn |
#10
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Joining a co-axial cable
Sneezy wrote in
22.124: I need to cut and re-join a co-axial TV aerial cable but I've no idea what tools and connectors I'll need. I might also need a bit of cable to connect the two ends but there's a lot of different types of cable and I haven't the foggiest when it comes to co-ax. Everything will be in a damp, cold environment. I also wanted to fit a wall plate connector and make up a short length of cable from the TV to the wall but wall plates with back boxes don't exist for some reason. Any advice? One final thing - is co-ax like electrical cable in that you can cut/strip it with a sharp knife or do you need a (pricey) stripper thing? I'm assuming that you remove the insulation, leaving just the inner copper wire, when fitting the connectors. -- john "Technology is dominated by two types of people: those who understand what they do not manage, and those who manage what they do not understand." - Putt's Law |
#11
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Joining a co-axial cable
Dave Plowman wrote in
: In article 21, Sneezy wrote: I have a habit of buying things that don't fit DIY stores are too expensive - B & Q being a case in point: my mate had to buy 5m of wire when he only wanted 1. My local one sells most cables by the metre. But I tend to buy full drums of just about any cable - it gets used eventually. ;-) Well B & Q are stopping selling cable by the metre for some reason - can't think why :-/ We did ask but we were told that the eletrician didn't start til 5 and no one else could help. Customer service huh -- john "Technology is dominated by two types of people: those who understand what they do not manage, and those who manage what they do not understand." - Putt's Law |
#12
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Joining a co-axial cable
Sneezy wrote in message . 222.124...
I need to cut and re-join a co-axial TV aerial cable but I've no idea what tools and connectors I'll need. I might also need a bit of cable to connect the two ends but there's a lot of different types of cable and I haven't the foggiest when it comes to co-ax. Everything will be in a damp, cold environment. I also wanted to fit a wall plate connector and make up a short length of cable from the TV to the wall but wall plates with back boxes don't exist for some reason. Any advice? In addition to what others have said.... You don't say exactly why you want to need to cut and rejoin (maybe twice?) the co-ax; but if there's a way of extending te cable to where you need it without doing this (ie by replacing it with a longer length) then go for it. There's a good chance you could reduce your picture quality by introducing joints; best avoided if possible. David |
#13
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Joining a co-axial cable
In article , Lurch
wrote: 35mm is a little excessive for most things, they're usually reserved for use with cooker switches and the like. 25mm is suitable for sockets, tv points etc.. It depends. For digital feeds it is more important to not kink the cable, so the extra depth of a 35mm box can be useful. -- AJL Electronics (G6FGO) Ltd : Satellite and TV aerial systems http://www.classicmicrocars.co.uk : http://www.ajlelectronics.co.uk |
#14
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Joining a co-axial cable
In article ,
Lurch wrote: 35mm is a little excessive for most things, they're usually reserved for use with cooker switches and the like. Just following up as I'm still not fully metric, I tend to use 45mm boxes for cookers - I hate having to cram in wires. I've noticed when fixing 'pro' installations that many sparks cut the tails so short it's difficult to get at the screws without standing on your head, and that the fault I've been fixing was due to a loose connection. And with short tails if the wire is damaged as it often is, it's a bigger repair job. -- *That's it! I‘m calling grandma! Dave Plowman London SW 12 RIP Acorn |
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Joining a co-axial cable
"Sneezy" wrote
| Well B & Q are stopping selling cable by the metre for some reason - | can't think why :-/ Because if everyone who buys a 'metre' of cable actually cuts off 110 cm that works out at 10% shrinkage of stock. Much better to make people buy 5m when they only need 3. Owain |
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Joining a co-axial cable
In article ,
Owain wrote: Because if everyone who buys a 'metre' of cable actually cuts off 110 cm that works out at 10% shrinkage of stock. Given the mark up on cut lengths, I'd think they'd taken this into consideration. Much better to make people buy 5m when they only need 3. Wonder what the mark up is on these sort of cut lengths? -- *You sound reasonable......time to up my medication Dave Plowman London SW 12 RIP Acorn |
#17
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Joining a co-axial cable
Sneezy wrote in message . 222.124...
Sneezy wrote in 22.124: I need to cut and re-join a co-axial TV aerial cable but I've no idea what tools and connectors I'll need. I might also need a bit of cable to connect the two ends but there's a lot of different types of cable and I haven't the foggiest when it comes to co-ax. Everything will be in a damp, cold environment. I also wanted to fit a wall plate connector and make up a short length of cable from the TV to the wall but wall plates with back boxes don't exist for some reason. Any advice? One final thing - is co-ax like electrical cable in that you can cut/strip it with a sharp knife or do you need a (pricey) stripper thing? I'm assuming that you remove the insulation, leaving just the inner copper wire, when fitting the connectors. Coax has 4 parts: inner copper conductor thick insulation outer concentric copper conductor outer PVC cover You must join inner to inner and outer to outer. Avoid any litle floating wires that can short it all. DOnt just twist the wires as they will oxidise, screw connect or solder. A knife is fine. No need to pay for a pricey stripper. But one word: coax joins in damp places have a habit of corroding and failing. So waterproof it really thoroughly. Regards, NT |
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Joining a co-axial cable
On Sat, 27 Mar 2004 14:04:48 +0000 (GMT), Dave Plowman
wrote: Wonder what the mark up is on these sort of cut lengths? Significant I'd say. I usually like to buy my cable by the drum rather than by metre length. However given the changes introduced with part P I will soon have no need of cable as I won't be able to take the jobs on. PoP --- If you need to contact me please submit your comments via the web form at http://www.anyoldtripe.co.uk. I'll probably still ignore you but at least I'll get the message..... |
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Joining a co-axial cable
"Owain" wrote in message ... "Sneezy" wrote | Well B & Q are stopping selling cable by the metre for some reason - | can't think why :-/ Because if everyone who buys a 'metre' of cable actually cuts off 110 cm that works out at 10% shrinkage of stock. Much better to make people buy 5m when they only need 3. Well they only need to employ 'till idiots' who can use a tape measure and all their problems should be solved, and those of the customer trying to pay !... |
#21
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Joining a co-axial cable
"Owain" wrote in
: "Sneezy" wrote | Well B & Q are stopping selling cable by the metre for some reason - | can't think why :-/ Because if everyone who buys a 'metre' of cable actually cuts off 110 cm that works out at 10% shrinkage of stock. Much better to make people buy 5m when they only need 3. Yup. And how many people nick a handful of cable clips from the box, or a tap washer from a packet of assorted washers... It just grated a bit - having to buy 5m when we only needed 1m. Actually, we needed about 10cm - I cut the fitted plug off a fridge, threaded the cable through a worktop, put a new plug on and discovered that it no longer reached the plug socket Much swearing ensued I was doing it for my mate who can't see so well. So it was off to B & Q for all the bits necessary to extend the cable. All in about £5 vanished on a connector box and cable! The markup on cable more than covers loses. Your average home user can't justify buying 100m of cable when they only need 1 or 2m and aren't likely to ever need the cable again. I know I can't. -- john "Technology is dominated by two types of people: those who understand what they do not manage, and those who manage what they do not understand." - Putt's Law |
#22
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Joining a co-axial cable
Sneezy wrote:
"Owain" wrote in : "Sneezy" wrote Well B & Q are stopping selling cable by the metre for some reason - can't think why :-/ Because if everyone who buys a 'metre' of cable actually cuts off 110 cm that works out at 10% shrinkage of stock. Much better to make people buy 5m when they only need 3. Yup. And how many people nick a handful of cable clips from the box, or a tap washer from a packet of assorted washers... It just grated a bit - having to buy 5m when we only needed 1m. Actually, we needed about 10cm - I cut the fitted plug off a fridge, threaded the cable through a worktop, put a new plug on and discovered that it no longer reached the plug socket Much swearing ensued I was doing it for my mate who can't see so well. So it was off to B & Q for all the bits necessary to extend the cable. All in about £5 vanished on a connector box and cable! Surely you'd have been better off buying a cheap extension lead and doing the joining under the wortop. I wouldn't dare suggest just using the extension lead through the worktop as a permanent means of connecting the appliance in this NG. -- James... www.jameshart.co.uk |
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Joining a co-axial cable
On Sat, 27 Mar 2004 08:51:22 +0000, in uk.d-i-y "Andy Luckman (AJL
Electronics)" strung together this: In article , Lurch wrote: 35mm is a little excessive for most things, they're usually reserved for use with cooker switches and the like. 25mm is suitable for sockets, tv points etc.. It depends. For digital feeds it is more important to not kink the cable, so the extra depth of a 35mm box can be useful. I did actually think of that today, whilst fitting a new plate to digital tv system. I was going to follow it up when I got back in with the insertion of the word 'most' before sockets, tv points etc.. -- SJW A.C.S. Ltd. |
#24
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Joining a co-axial cable
"James Hart" wrote in news:c44icj$2digii$1@ID-
76251.news.uni-berlin.de: Sneezy wrote: "Owain" wrote in : "Sneezy" wrote Well B & Q are stopping selling cable by the metre for some reason - can't think why :-/ Because if everyone who buys a 'metre' of cable actually cuts off 110 cm that works out at 10% shrinkage of stock. Much better to make people buy 5m when they only need 3. Yup. And how many people nick a handful of cable clips from the box, or a tap washer from a packet of assorted washers... It just grated a bit - having to buy 5m when we only needed 1m. Actually, we needed about 10cm - I cut the fitted plug off a fridge, threaded the cable through a worktop, put a new plug on and discovered that it no longer reached the plug socket Much swearing ensued I was doing it for my mate who can't see so well. So it was off to B & Q for all the bits necessary to extend the cable. All in about £5 vanished on a connector box and cable! Surely you'd have been better off buying a cheap extension lead and doing the joining under the wortop. I wouldn't dare suggest just using the extension lead through the worktop as a permanent means of connecting the appliance in this NG. Well, since I was doing the work for him it makes him the customer. What the customer wants, the customer gets - they are, after all, always right The connector box is hidden under the worktop and there's plenty of slack to pull the fridge out if needs be. My suggestion was to drill out a hole in the worktop that would allow the plug to pass through - I've done this myself at my old flat - but he didn't want a big hole. I have issues with hidden extension leads - I just don't think of them as safe. Far better to have the extension in view. Maybe I need help -- john "Technology is dominated by two types of people: those who understand what they do not manage, and those who manage what they do not understand." - Putt's Law |
#25
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Joining a co-axial cable
In article ,
Jerry. wrote: Because if everyone who buys a 'metre' of cable actually cuts off 110 cm that works out at 10% shrinkage of stock. Much better to make people buy 5m when they only need 3. Well they only need to employ 'till idiots' who can use a tape measure and all their problems should be solved, and those of the customer trying to pay I bought some polythene tube the other day by the metre at B&Q. They look it up in a catalogue which has life sized pics to help them identify it - and a bar code to scan. But she just asked me how long it was - didn't actually check. Real performance cutting it - all they had was a dirty great hydraulic job for steel chains, etc, when I expected snips on a chain. Perhaps someone cut the chain for the snips with the hydraulic cutter... -- *Puritanism: The haunting fear that someone, somewhere may be happy. Dave Plowman London SW 12 RIP Acorn |
#26
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Joining a co-axial cable
"Dave Plowman" wrote in message ... In article , Jerry. wrote: Because if everyone who buys a 'metre' of cable actually cuts off 110 cm that works out at 10% shrinkage of stock. Much better to make people buy 5m when they only need 3. Well they only need to employ 'till idiots' who can use a tape measure and all their problems should be solved, and those of the customer trying to pay I bought some polythene tube the other day by the metre at B&Q. They look it up in a catalogue which has life sized pics to help them identify it - and a bar code to scan. My local one, since much improved, had catalogues with actual off cuts stuck to the page, didn't stop the 'till idiot' getting it wrong on more than one occasion ! But she just asked me how long it was - didn't actually check. Real performance cutting it - all they had was a dirty great hydraulic job for steel chains, etc, when I expected snips on a chain. Perhaps someone cut the chain for the snips with the hydraulic cutter... I'm not sure what system they have now, but at one time they had both the hydraulic cutter and snipes padlocked with a sign telling customers to ask for assistance - trouble was finding someone who had the keys. As I said, the store is much improved, internally rebuilt and extended, they had to either improve or close I suspect.... |
#27
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Joining a co-axial cable
"Dave Plowman" wrote
| Real performance cutting it - all they had was a dirty | great hydraulic job for steel chains, etc, when I | expected snips on a chain. | Perhaps someone cut the chain for the snips with the | hydraulic cutter... I'd assumed that snips on a chain now contravened the elfin sayftee reggerlashuns. Thou shalt not have anything in they shop with which a pure sweet innocent unattended child might disfinger itself. Owain |
#28
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Joining a co-axial cable
In article ,
Owain wrote: I'd assumed that snips on a chain now contravened the elfin sayftee reggerlashuns. Thou shalt not have anything in they shop with which a pure sweet innocent unattended child might disfinger itself. Pity. I'd hoped it might get those not run over by the fork lift trucks. -- *Work is for people who don't know how to fish. Dave Plowman London SW 12 RIP Acorn |
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