I'm sure this has been covered before but doesn't come to hand in a search:

Can anyone recommend from personal experience a modestly priced LED PIR
floodlight. I have many of the conventional 150 watt (78mm lamp) and 500
watt (117mm lamp) scattered around the various outbuildings of the farm, and
today's job was (yet again) to replace the bulbs. The first two 150 watt one
thwarted me due to rusted screws seizing solid, then the rain defeated me
with the four 500 watt ones that need changing but they are quite likely in
the same condition - they only last a year or so before the corrosion gets
to them. I have been down sizing bulbs on changing them to 130 and 400 watts
but perhaps the time is right to change to LEDs ? Usually the high
brightness of an incandescent light is not needed when it is pitch black all
around.

AWEM

On 07/30/2013 10:14 AM, Andrew Mawson wrote:
I'm sure this has been covered before but doesn't come to hand in a search:

Can anyone recommend from personal experience a modestly priced LED PIR
floodlight. I have many of the conventional 150 watt (78mm lamp) and 500
watt (117mm lamp) scattered around the various outbuildings of the farm,
and today's job was (yet again) to replace the bulbs. The first two 150
watt one thwarted me due to rusted screws seizing solid, then the rain
defeated me with the four 500 watt ones that need changing but they are
quite likely in the same condition - they only last a year or so before
the corrosion gets to them. I have been down sizing bulbs on changing
them to 130 and 400 watts but perhaps the time is right to change to
LEDs ? Usually the high brightness of an incandescent light is not
needed when it is pitch black all around.

AWEM

I bought one of these 10W ones from Homebase, earlier year to replace a
tubed one and it's been fine. Can't vouch for the life though.

http://tinyurl.com/nm5vth9

It's gives soft white light, rather than the bright light of a tube, but
perfectly adequate for a small area behind a house for example.

Andy C

"Andrew Mawson" wrote:
I'm sure this has been covered before but doesn't come to hand in a search:

Can anyone recommend from personal experience a modestly priced LED PIR floodlight.

After discovering prowlers around my barn I put up solar PIR LED
floodlights these are relatively low powered but to my mind that is better
than a glaring 500W halogen light. I got them from ToolSatan 35236 @ £20
ea.

Aluminium bodied LED with PIR from Amazon are £19 each. They are 10W so
should be more than bright enough.

--
€¢DarWin|
_/ _/

"Andrew Mawson" wrote in message
...
I'm sure this has been covered before but doesn't come to hand in a
search:

Can anyone recommend from personal experience a modestly priced LED PIR
floodlight. I have many of the conventional 150 watt (78mm lamp) and 500
watt (117mm lamp) scattered around the various outbuildings of the farm,
and today's job was (yet again) to replace the bulbs. The first two 150
watt one thwarted me due to rusted screws seizing solid, then the rain
defeated me with the four 500 watt ones that need changing but they are
quite likely in the same condition - they only last a year or so before
the corrosion gets to them. I have been down sizing bulbs on changing them
to 130 and 400 watts but perhaps the time is right to change to LEDs ?
Usually the high brightness of an incandescent light is not needed when it
is pitch black all around.

AWEM

There are these for ~£3 but not PIR -
http://cpc.farnell.com/pro-elec/ht01...8587&CMP=NLem1

I wonder why they don't make such things of a durable plastic? Having screws
that rust does seem a little short sighted. Where are these screws? Maybe
the next one you get you need to get the screws plated en masse and then see
what happens.

Gone are the days when outside things were made with galvanised bits that
one could unscrew after ten years with little problems it seems.
Brian

--
From the Sofa of Brian Gaff Reply address is active
"Andy Cap" wrote in message
...
On 07/30/2013 10:14 AM, Andrew Mawson wrote:
I'm sure this has been covered before but doesn't come to hand in a
search:

Can anyone recommend from personal experience a modestly priced LED PIR
floodlight. I have many of the conventional 150 watt (78mm lamp) and 500
watt (117mm lamp) scattered around the various outbuildings of the farm,
and today's job was (yet again) to replace the bulbs. The first two 150
watt one thwarted me due to rusted screws seizing solid, then the rain
defeated me with the four 500 watt ones that need changing but they are
quite likely in the same condition - they only last a year or so before
the corrosion gets to them. I have been down sizing bulbs on changing
them to 130 and 400 watts but perhaps the time is right to change to
LEDs ? Usually the high brightness of an incandescent light is not
needed when it is pitch black all around.

AWEM

I bought one of these 10W ones from Homebase, earlier year to replace a
tubed one and it's been fine. Can't vouch for the life though.

http://tinyurl.com/nm5vth9

It's gives soft white light, rather than the bright light of a tube, but
perfectly adequate for a small area behind a house for example.

Andy C

On 07/30/2013 12:54 PM, Brian Gaff wrote:
I wonder why they don't make such things of a durable plastic? Having screws
that rust does seem a little short sighted. Where are these screws? Maybe
the next one you get you need to get the screws plated en masse and then see
what happens.

Gone are the days when outside things were made with galvanised bits that
one could unscrew after ten years with little problems it seems.
Brian


They're actually really nice quality aa described in the only review -
not mine !

or one can dump the screws completely on installation and replace with a cable tie, cut it to replace bulbs etc & fit a new one...

Jim K

On Tuesday, July 30, 2013 12:54:05 PM UTC+1, Brian Gaff wrote:
I wonder why they don't make such things of a durable plastic? Having screws

that rust does seem a little short sighted. Where are these screws? Maybe

the next one you get you need to get the screws plated en masse and then see

what happens.



Gone are the days when outside things were made with galvanised bits that

one could unscrew after ten years with little problems it seems.

Brian



--

From the Sofa of Brian Gaff Reply address is active

"Andy Cap" wrote in message

...

On 07/30/2013 10:14 AM, Andrew Mawson wrote:

I'm sure this has been covered before but doesn't come to hand in a

search:



Can anyone recommend from personal experience a modestly priced LED PIR

floodlight. I have many of the conventional 150 watt (78mm lamp) and 500

watt (117mm lamp) scattered around the various outbuildings of the farm,

and today's job was (yet again) to replace the bulbs. The first two 150

watt one thwarted me due to rusted screws seizing solid, then the rain

defeated me with the four 500 watt ones that need changing but they are

quite likely in the same condition - they only last a year or so before

the corrosion gets to them. I have been down sizing bulbs on changing

them to 130 and 400 watts but perhaps the time is right to change to

LEDs ? Usually the high brightness of an incandescent light is not

needed when it is pitch black all around.



AWEM



I bought one of these 10W ones from Homebase, earlier year to replace a

tubed one and it's been fine. Can't vouch for the life though.



http://tinyurl.com/nm5vth9



It's gives soft white light, rather than the bright light of a tube, but

perfectly adequate for a small area behind a house for example.



Andy C

Brian Gaff wrote:
I wonder why they don't make such things of a durable plastic? Having screws
that rust does seem a little short sighted. Where are these screws? Maybe
the next one you get you need to get the screws plated en masse and then see
what happens.

Gone are the days when outside things were made with galvanised bits that
one could unscrew after ten years with little problems it seems.

Given that stainless steel nuts/bolts/screws are dirt cheap nowadays
it's a great pity that this sort of thing doesn't have all stainless
scrws/

--
Chris Green
·

In article om, bm
writes

"Andrew Mawson" wrote in
message
...
I'm sure this has been covered before but doesn't come to hand in a
search:

Can anyone recommend from personal experience a modestly priced LED PIR
floodlight. I have many of the conventional 150 watt (78mm lamp) and 500
watt (117mm lamp) scattered around the various outbuildings of the farm,
and today's job was (yet again) to replace the bulbs. The first two 150
watt one thwarted me due to rusted screws seizing solid, then the rain
defeated me with the four 500 watt ones that need changing but they are
quite likely in the same condition - they only last a year or so before
the corrosion gets to them. I have been down sizing bulbs on changing them
to 130 and 400 watts but perhaps the time is right to change to LEDs ?
Usually the high brightness of an incandescent light is not needed when it
is pitch black all around.

AWEM

There are these for ~£3 but not PIR -
http://cpc.farnell.com/pro-elec/ht01...8587?Ntt=LA039
8587&CMP=NLem1

Bought one of these try, total junk, very dim. You know those warnings
not to stare directly into the beam of ultrabright leds? This product
does not need one.

I think it needs to be one of the high output dies in the 5-20W range to
be much use, sold on Amazon but not tried yet.
--
fred
it's a ba-na-na . . . .

On Tue, 30 Jul 2013 14:14:30 +0100, wrote:

Brian Gaff wrote:
I wonder why they don't make such things of a durable plastic? Having screws
that rust does seem a little short sighted. Where are these screws? Maybe
the next one you get you need to get the screws plated en masse and then see
what happens.

Gone are the days when outside things were made with galvanised bits that
one could unscrew after ten years with little problems it seems.

Given that stainless steel nuts/bolts/screws are dirt cheap nowadays
it's a great pity that this sort of thing doesn't have all stainless
scrws/

Well, yes. I tend to replace most of the fasteners with st. st. and grease
them as well.
One outside light was taken from a bathroom nearly 50 years ago (and it was
ancient then) and is still easy to get into.
--
Peter.
The gods will stay away
whilst religions hold sway

"Jim K" wrote in message
...

On Tuesday, July 30, 2013 12:54:05 PM UTC+1, Brian Gaff wrote:
I wonder why they don't make such things of a durable plastic? Having
screws

that rust does seem a little short sighted. Where are these screws? Maybe

the next one you get you need to get the screws plated en masse and then
see

what happens.



Gone are the days when outside things were made with galvanised bits
that

one could unscrew after ten years with little problems it seems.

Brian



--

From the Sofa of Brian Gaff Reply address is active

"Andy Cap" wrote in message

...

On 07/30/2013 10:14 AM, Andrew Mawson wrote:

I'm sure this has been covered before but doesn't come to hand in a

search:



Can anyone recommend from personal experience a modestly priced LED
PIR

floodlight. I have many of the conventional 150 watt (78mm lamp) and
500

watt (117mm lamp) scattered around the various outbuildings of the
farm,

and today's job was (yet again) to replace the bulbs. The first two
150

watt one thwarted me due to rusted screws seizing solid, then the rain

defeated me with the four 500 watt ones that need changing but they
are

quite likely in the same condition - they only last a year or so
before

the corrosion gets to them. I have been down sizing bulbs on changing

them to 130 and 400 watts but perhaps the time is right to change to

LEDs ? Usually the high brightness of an incandescent light is not

needed when it is pitch black all around.



AWEM



I bought one of these 10W ones from Homebase, earlier year to replace a

tubed one and it's been fine. Can't vouch for the life though.



http://tinyurl.com/nm5vth9



It's gives soft white light, rather than the bright light of a tube,
but

perfectly adequate for a small area behind a house for example.



Andy C


or one can dump the screws completely on installation and replace with a
cable tie, cut it to replace bulbs etc & fit a new one...

Jim K

Excellent lateral thinking Jim, but I fear that a normal tywrap won't take
the not inconsiderable heat for long - maybe a twist of wire through the
hole (though not copper or there will be more galvanic corrosion). The screw
clamps the glass onto its seal so whatever makes the closure needs to be
able to be pretty tight.

AWEM

On 30/07/2013 12:54, Brian Gaff wrote:
I wonder why they don't make such things of a durable plastic? Having screws
that rust does seem a little short sighted.

With the LED floodlights the metal case acts as a substantial heat sink.
The LED is screwed directly to the casing. With many LED products sold
for main lighting use heat is the main killer. This is overcome in these
cheap LED floodights where the led is a single 10/30W array.




--
mailto:news{at}admac(dot}myzen{dot}co{dot}uk

On 30/07/2013 10:14, Andrew Mawson wrote:
I'm sure this has been covered before but doesn't come to hand in a search:

Can anyone recommend from personal experience a modestly priced LED PIR
floodlight. I have many of the conventional 150 watt (78mm lamp) and 500
watt (117mm lamp) scattered around the various outbuildings of the farm,
and today's job was (yet again) to replace the bulbs. The first two 150
watt one thwarted me due to rusted screws seizing solid, then the rain
defeated me with the four 500 watt ones that need changing but they are
quite likely in the same condition - they only last a year or so before
the corrosion gets to them. I have been down sizing bulbs on changing
them to 130 and 400 watts but perhaps the time is right to change to
LEDs ? Usually the high brightness of an incandescent light is not
needed when it is pitch black all around.

Why not buy a 20W LED floodlight from Ebay and check that its bright
enough? I have a 10W version and it adequately lights the area where I
previously had an (over-powering) 150W conventional light.

Many of the UK Ebay sellers have warm white and cool white. I suspect
that for your usage the cool white (daylight/6500K) would work better.

Go for the ones with a single led rather than the ones with multiple LEDs.

Example taken at random from Ebay (possibly up to £10 cheaper from other
UK suppliers)
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/PIR-10W-20...em5 af15c1a64



--
mailto:news{at}admac(dot}myzen{dot}co{dot}uk

On 30/07/2013 19:12, alan wrote:


Go for the ones with a single led rather than the ones with multiple LEDs.

Example taken at random from Ebay (possibly up to £10 cheaper from other
UK suppliers)
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/PIR-10W-20...em5 af15c1a64


Additional info

There is one gotcha with the cheap LED floodlights

They come pre-wired with around 1 foot of 3 core mains cable

The mains wire is relatively thin (outside diameter 5 to 6mm - it only
has to supply 30W) and therefore the bush into the back of the unit only
accepts cable of this diameter if you wish to replace the short length
of supplied cable.

The units can be easily dismantled and they have waterproof caskets
between mating halfs.

The back box on these lamps is relatively full of the mains to DC
converter and the mains cable is crimped to the input wires of the
converter. There may not be enough room to use a chock block if you want
to remake this connection. Soldering with heat shrink or re-crimping may
be necessary.

Alternatively you may need a waterproof connector or box of some kind
to join your exiting wiring to the pre-wired floodlight.

--
mailto:news{at}admac(dot}myzen{dot}co{dot}uk

On 30/07/2013 14:41, fred wrote:

There are these for ~£3 but not PIR -
http://cpc.farnell.com/pro-elec/ht01...8587?Ntt=LA039

8587&CMP=NLem1

Bought one of these try, total junk, very dim. You know those warnings
not to stare directly into the beam of ultrabright leds? This product
does not need one.

Its about the same output as my two AA cell torch.
Plenty bright enough at 10 feet with the reflector removed.

Brian Gaff wrote:
Gone are the days when outside things were made with galvanised bits that
one could unscrew after ten years with little problems it seems.

I was quite impressed that I was able to unscrew the black enanamelled conduit that had been buried in my plaster for 40+ years with just a tap from a spanner.

Owain

"alan" wrote in message ...

On 30/07/2013 19:12, alan wrote:


Go for the ones with a single led rather than the ones with multiple
LEDs.

Example taken at random from Ebay (possibly up to £10 cheaper from other
UK suppliers)
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/PIR-10W-20...em5 af15c1a64


Additional info

There is one gotcha with the cheap LED floodlights

They come pre-wired with around 1 foot of 3 core mains cable

The mains wire is relatively thin (outside diameter 5 to 6mm - it only has
to supply 30W) and therefore the bush into the back of the unit only
accepts cable of this diameter if you wish to replace the short length of
supplied cable.

The units can be easily dismantled and they have waterproof caskets between
mating halfs.

The back box on these lamps is relatively full of the mains to DC converter
and the mains cable is crimped to the input wires of the converter. There
may not be enough room to use a chock block if you want to remake this
connection. Soldering with heat shrink or re-crimping may be necessary.

Alternatively you may need a waterproof connector or box of some kind
to join your exiting wiring to the pre-wired floodlight.


That indeed may be a 'gotcha' . All my PIRs (14 at a quick mental count)
have an external waterproof switch across the PIR so that they can be turned
'permanently on' which involves a three core and earth cable entering the
back of the unit. Saves waving your arms around to keep the light on while
trying to hitch a stock trailer full of pigs

AWEM

On 30/07/2013 20:51, Andrew Mawson wrote:


That indeed may be a 'gotcha' . All my PIRs (14 at a quick mental count)
have an external waterproof switch across the PIR so that they can be
turned 'permanently on' which involves a three core and earth cable
entering the back of the unit. Saves waving your arms around to keep the
light on while trying to hitch a stock trailer full of pigs

Many PIR floodlights with just a 3 core mains inlet have a similar built
in function. Switch on - switch off - switch on again within a certain
short period (within 10 seconds) and the light stays on.

To revert back to PIR operation switch off - wait a while and switch
back on. The light will then usually come on for the timer period then
switch off - to be controlled by the PIR/timer afterwards

I don't know if the LED PIR floodlights on Ebay have the same
functionality - my LED floodlight doesn't have a PIR.

--
mailto:news{at}admac(dot}myzen{dot}co{dot}uk

On 30/07/2013 21:53, alan wrote:
On 30/07/2013 20:51, Andrew Mawson wrote:


That indeed may be a 'gotcha' . All my PIRs (14 at a quick mental count)
have an external waterproof switch across the PIR so that they can be
turned 'permanently on' which involves a three core and earth cable
entering the back of the unit. Saves waving your arms around to keep the
light on while trying to hitch a stock trailer full of pigs

Many PIR floodlights with just a 3 core mains inlet have a similar built
in function. Switch on - switch off - switch on again within a certain
short period (within 10 seconds) and the light stays on.

To revert back to PIR operation switch off - wait a while and switch
back on. The light will then usually come on for the timer period then
switch off - to be controlled by the PIR/timer afterwards

I don't know if the LED PIR floodlights on Ebay have the same
functionality - my LED floodlight doesn't have a PIR.



Edit: For instance see
http://www.jcc.co.uk/media/downloads/pdf/JC45102.pdf
(check manual mode of operation)

--
mailto:news{at}admac(dot}myzen{dot}co{dot}uk

On Tue, 30 Jul 2013 10:38:32 +0100, Andy Cap wrote:

I bought one of these 10W ones from Homebase, earlier year to replace a
tubed one and it's been fine. Can't vouch for the life though.

http://tinyurl.com/nm5vth9

HOW MUCH!

EBay/Amazon/CPC are more or less half that price!

--
Cheers
Dave.

On Tue, 30 Jul 2013 12:54:05 +0100, Brian Gaff wrote:

I wonder why they don't make such things of a durable plastic?

Heat sink for the LED and/or power supply.

Having screws that rust does seem a little short sighted.

The cheapo halogen floods are not much more than a bit of painted
pressed steel, they are made down to a price...

The 10 W single chip IP65 800 lumen LED floods that CPC sell have
stainless steel screws and 1 m of lead. LA04484 £15.45 + VAT.

--
Cheers
Dave.

On 07/30/2013 11:38 PM, Dave Liquorice wrote:


HOW MUCH!

EBay/Amazon/CPC are more or less half that price!


It a shame when poor people have to worry about every penny ! ;-)

On 31/07/2013 07:47, Andy Cap wrote:
On 07/30/2013 11:38 PM, Dave Liquorice wrote:


HOW MUCH!

EBay/Amazon/CPC are more or less half that price!


It a shame when poor people have to worry about every penny ! ;-)


Some of us rich people stay rich by shopping at Aldi/Lidl.


--
mailto:news{at}admac(dot}myzen{dot}co{dot}uk

On Tue, 30 Jul 2013 23:45:18 +0100 (BST), Dave Liquorice wrote:

On Tue, 30 Jul 2013 12:54:05 +0100, Brian Gaff wrote:

I wonder why they don't make such things of a durable plastic?

Heat sink for the LED and/or power supply.

Having screws that rust does seem a little short sighted.

The cheapo halogen floods are not much more than a bit of painted
pressed steel, they are made down to a price...

The 10 W single chip IP65 800 lumen LED floods that CPC sell have
stainless steel screws and 1 m of lead. LA04484 £15.45 + VAT.

On a slightly different tack, I'm impressed by the CFL floodlight from Aldi
that I fitted for a neighbour. It's a good wash of white light without
excessive glare and comes on immediately even in the winter.
IIRC it's about 20 - 22W and the lamp isn't replacable. I don't know if
bigger versions are available.
Our local street lights have been replaced with CFLs and, along with the new
luminaires, give a good spread of light without being dazzling.
--
Peter.
The gods will stay away
whilst religions hold sway

On 07/31/2013 08:30 AM, alan wrote:

HOW MUCH!

EBay/Amazon/CPC are more or less half that price!


It a shame when poor people have to worry about every penny ! ;-)


Some of us rich people stay rich by shopping at Aldi/Lidl.



I've always found their parking bays too narrow for the Bentley.

"alan" wrote in message ...

On 30/07/2013 20:51, Andrew Mawson wrote:


That indeed may be a 'gotcha' . All my PIRs (14 at a quick mental count)
have an external waterproof switch across the PIR so that they can be
turned 'permanently on' which involves a three core and earth cable
entering the back of the unit. Saves waving your arms around to keep the
light on while trying to hitch a stock trailer full of pigs

Many PIR floodlights with just a 3 core mains inlet have a similar built in
function. Switch on - switch off - switch on again within a certain short
period (within 10 seconds) and the light stays on.

To revert back to PIR operation switch off - wait a while and switch back
on. The light will then usually come on for the timer period then switch
off - to be controlled by the PIR/timer afterwards

I don't know if the LED PIR floodlights on Ebay have the same
functionality - my LED floodlight doesn't have a PIR.


Not a lot of use when fed from a locked building with the isolator inside¬!

AWEM

On 31/07/2013 10:04, Andy Cap wrote:
On 07/31/2013 08:30 AM, alan wrote:

HOW MUCH!

EBay/Amazon/CPC are more or less half that price!


It a shame when poor people have to worry about every penny ! ;-)


Some of us rich people stay rich by shopping at Aldi/Lidl.



I've always found their parking bays too narrow for the Bentley.


My local Aldi car park often looks like a forecourt for an up-market
Chelsea Tractor dealership.

For those of use with real cars, my local has introduced double size
parking bays (for mothers with prams), and if they are full use the
disabled bays.

--
mailto:news{at}admac(dot}myzen{dot}co{dot}uk

On Tue, 30 Jul 2013 12:54:05 +0100, "Brian Gaff"
wrote:

I wonder why they don't make such things of a durable plastic?

Not LEDs but that's why I bought these:
http://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Main_Ind...hts_Smartflood

The components clip together and the final fixing screws are recessed.
I'd previously used B&Q quartz halogen floods that had to be replaced
when the lamp went because the screw had rusted. Mind you they only
cost £10.

On Wed, 31 Jul 2013 10:04:56 +0100, Andy Cap
wrote:

Some of us rich people stay rich by shopping at Aldi/Lidl.



I've always found their parking bays too narrow for the Bentley.

Simple; use two spaces.
http://youparklikea****.com/image/56759610094
I see you've already been snapped.

On Tuesday, 30 July 2013 14:14:30 UTC+1, wrote:
Brian Gaff wrote:

I wonder why they don't make such things of a durable plastic? Having screws

that rust does seem a little short sighted. Where are these screws? Maybe

the next one you get you need to get the screws plated en masse and then see

what happens.



Gone are the days when outside things were made with galvanised bits that

one could unscrew after ten years with little problems it seems.



Given that stainless steel nuts/bolts/screws are dirt cheap nowadays

it's a great pity that this sort of thing doesn't have all stainless

scrws/

Are the good ones that cheap? A friend of mine has a canel boat and was looking for screws and they cost a fortune as they are marine grade SS.
The saem goes for teh yatch varnish he's been using so muvh more expensive than the usual stuff.

On Wed, 31 Jul 2013 05:46:45 -0700 (PDT), whisky-dave wrote:

Given that stainless steel nuts/bolts/screws are dirt cheap nowadays

it's a great pity that this sort of thing doesn't have all stainless

scrws/

Are the good ones that cheap? A friend of mine has a canel boat and was looking for screws and they cost a fortune as they are marine grade SS.
The saem goes for teh yatch varnish he's been using so muvh more expensive than the usual stuff.

Marine grade is, I assume, A4; A2 should be OK for freshwater use. I've used
A2 on bikes for decades and roads tend to be a bit saltier than canals.
--
Peter.
The gods will stay away
whilst religions hold sway

A friend of mine has a canel boat and was looking for screws and they cost
a fortune as they are marine grade SS.
The saem goes for teh yatch varnish he's been using so muvh more expensive
than the usual stuff.

The problem there is he must have mentioned the word 'boat' when buying,
that is a code word to all sellers to at least double, if not tripple the
price of their goods,

When i had a motorhome, i called in at a boat chandlers on the canal side
once, just to see what they sold,
they had a lot of exactly the same things motorhomes use (fiamma range of
roof vents and fans, whale water pumps and hose/fittings etc)

i thought the motorhome prices were bad, but blimey, almost double for the
exact same water pump i had in my motorhome,