"Jim K" wrote in message
...

On Tuesday, July 30, 2013 12:54:05 PM UTC+1, Brian Gaff wrote:
I wonder why they don't make such things of a durable plastic? Having
screws

that rust does seem a little short sighted. Where are these screws? Maybe

the next one you get you need to get the screws plated en masse and then
see

what happens.



Gone are the days when outside things were made with galvanised bits
that

one could unscrew after ten years with little problems it seems.

Brian



--

From the Sofa of Brian Gaff Reply address is active

"Andy Cap" wrote in message

...

On 07/30/2013 10:14 AM, Andrew Mawson wrote:

I'm sure this has been covered before but doesn't come to hand in a

search:



Can anyone recommend from personal experience a modestly priced LED
PIR

floodlight. I have many of the conventional 150 watt (78mm lamp) and
500

watt (117mm lamp) scattered around the various outbuildings of the
farm,

and today's job was (yet again) to replace the bulbs. The first two
150

watt one thwarted me due to rusted screws seizing solid, then the rain

defeated me with the four 500 watt ones that need changing but they
are

quite likely in the same condition - they only last a year or so
before

the corrosion gets to them. I have been down sizing bulbs on changing

them to 130 and 400 watts but perhaps the time is right to change to

LEDs ? Usually the high brightness of an incandescent light is not

needed when it is pitch black all around.



AWEM



I bought one of these 10W ones from Homebase, earlier year to replace a

tubed one and it's been fine. Can't vouch for the life though.



http://tinyurl.com/nm5vth9



It's gives soft white light, rather than the bright light of a tube,
but

perfectly adequate for a small area behind a house for example.



Andy C


or one can dump the screws completely on installation and replace with a
cable tie, cut it to replace bulbs etc & fit a new one...

Jim K

Excellent lateral thinking Jim, but I fear that a normal tywrap won't take
the not inconsiderable heat for long - maybe a twist of wire through the
hole (though not copper or there will be more galvanic corrosion). The screw
clamps the glass onto its seal so whatever makes the closure needs to be
able to be pretty tight.

AWEM