What, exactly, is the situation regarding the phasing out of tungsten
lightbulbs?
All my main room lights are on dimmer switches so do I fill my spare
bedroom with bulbs for the future?
--
Jim S
Tyneside UK
www.jimscott.co.uk

On Oct 15, 10:26*am, Jim S wrote:
What, exactly, is the situation regarding the phasing out of tungsten
lightbulbs?
All my main room lights are on dimmer switches so do I fill my spare
bedroom with bulbs for the future?

You can buy halogen replacements, which are pretty much identical
albeit more expensive to buy and less expensive to run.

Or you can readily buy dimmable CFLs these days.

If you really like the stone age, it is more authentic to light a fire
in the corner of the room.

Jim S wrote:
What, exactly, is the situation regarding the phasing out of tungsten
lightbulbs?
All my main room lights are on dimmer switches so do I fill my spare
bedroom with bulbs for the future?
yes.

On Sat, 15 Oct 2011 02:36:33 -0700 (PDT)
Bolted wrote:

On Oct 15, 10:26Â*am, Jim S wrote:
What, exactly, is the situation regarding the phasing out of
tungsten lightbulbs?
All my main room lights are on dimmer switches so do I fill my spare
bedroom with bulbs for the future?

You can buy halogen replacements, which are pretty much identical
albeit more expensive to buy and less expensive to run.

Or you can readily buy dimmable CFLs these days.

If you really like the stone age, it is more authentic to light a fire
in the corner of the room.

There is nothing wrong with liking something as it was, such as
tungsten bulbs. My wife reacts to fluorescents, they give her
headaches.
Funnily enough, I am about to by a wood-burning stove for the
house. Maybe we'll leave the door open, so we can read by its light. g

--
Davey.

On 15/10/2011 10:26, Jim S wrote:
What, exactly, is the situation regarding the phasing out of tungsten
lightbulbs?
All my main room lights are on dimmer switches so do I fill my spare
bedroom with bulbs for the future?

You may already be too late, or you could be lucky and get some very
cheap in the 99p Shop or the clearance sections of other shops.

You can now get halogen bulbs inside ordinary light bulbs. These work
with ordinary dimmers, they come on instantly and, in my opinion, they
give a much nicer light than CFLs. They are slightly more efficient
that the traditional light bulbs e.g. 42W replacing 60W (but nowhere
near as efficient as CFLs).

On Sat, 15 Oct 2011 02:36:33 -0700, Bolted wrote:

On Oct 15, 10:26Â*am, Jim S wrote:
What, exactly, is the situation regarding the phasing out of tungsten
lightbulbs?
All my main room lights are on dimmer switches so do I fill my spare
bedroom with bulbs for the future?

You can buy halogen replacements, which are pretty much identical albeit
more expensive to buy and less expensive to run.

Or you can readily buy dimmable CFLs these days.

Which have the same horrible light.

If you really like the stone age, it is more authentic to light a fire
in the corner of the room.


Don't be silly.
--
Use the BIG mirror service in the UK:
http://www.mirrorservice.org

*lightning protection* - a w_tom conductor

Gareth wrote:

You can now get halogen bulbs inside ordinary light bulbs. These work
with ordinary dimmers, they come on instantly and, in my opinion, they
give a much nicer light than CFLs.

I must check those out. Almost all my lighting uses small 40W screw-thread
reflector bulbs - if there isn't an alternative available I'm faced with
having to replace all the fittings.

In article
,
Bolted wrote:
You can buy halogen replacements, which are pretty much identical
albeit more expensive to buy and less expensive to run.

Or you can readily buy dimmable CFLs these days.

If you really like the stone age, it is more authentic to light a fire
in the corner of the room.

Quite. Although the implementation I see in most houses where they're
paranoid about changed to CFL is more akin to candle light, level wise.
But without the pleasant effect.

--
*Sorry, I don't date outside my species.

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

In article ,
Bert Coules wrote:
Gareth wrote:

You can now get halogen bulbs inside ordinary light bulbs. These work
with ordinary dimmers, they come on instantly and, in my opinion, they
give a much nicer light than CFLs.

I must check those out. Almost all my lighting uses small 40W
screw-thread reflector bulbs - if there isn't an alternative available
I'm faced with having to replace all the fittings.

It's only *some* tungsten lamps which are 'banned'. Mainly GLS (basic
lamps). 'Specials' - like it seems you have - are still available. Even
although they are generally less efficient than the old GLS types.

http://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Main_Ind...r_1/index.html

--
*Not all men are annoying. Some are dead.

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

Dave Plowman wrote:

It's only *some* tungsten lamps which are 'banned'. Mainly GLS (basic
lamps). 'Specials' - like it seems you have - are still available.

Thanks for that. Mine are R50s - I couldn't remember the designation when I
wrote my last post. I'm puzzled though: what's the justification for doing
away with the larger bulbs and not the smaller?

"Bert Coules" wrote in message
...
Dave Plowman wrote:

It's only *some* tungsten lamps which are 'banned'. Mainly GLS (basic
lamps). 'Specials' - like it seems you have - are still available.

Thanks for that. Mine are R50s - I couldn't remember the designation when
I wrote my last post. I'm puzzled though: what's the justification for
doing away with the larger bulbs and not the smaller?

the larger bulbs use more power, which apparantly means more greenarse
gasses produced, which is killing the plannet they rekon, so get rid of them
and the greenarses can feel smug that they have done their bit to save the
planet,

don't worry, they'll get to the smaller bulbs in time, then they will start
moaning about the mercury in the cfl's and make us switch to led's, untill
someone points out something bad about the manafacture of them and they make
us all use fart gas for lighting... they produce enough of it, so may as
well burn it for light.

"Jim S" wrote in message
...
What, exactly, is the situation regarding the phasing out of tungsten
lightbulbs?
All my main room lights are on dimmer switches so do I fill my spare
bedroom with bulbs for the future?
--
Jim S
Tyneside UK
www.jimscott.co.uk


You've raised a point indirectly for me. I have 8 off 50 watt GU10 tungsten
bulbs on two dimmer switches, so thats a total load max of 200 watts per
dimmer. I recall that when fitting the dimmer switch, it needs a minimum
load to work properly which was 100 watts, SO I am OK if two out of our
bulbs go pop.

Now I have seen in my local Tescos that there are Philips LED GU10 lamps
that are 4 watts each and are compatible with dimmers.

So if I replace the 8 off 50 watt bulbs with these 4 watt dimmable LED
GU10's thats a load of 16 watts per dimmer knob.....

Have I got to change the dimmer switch as well?

Stephen.

It would be interesting to find out what it is about the compacts that
causes this, as I too find them naff. However if you pay a bit more and get
the proper white ones, they seem to do this less. i suspect then that its
the el cheapo coatings used that are the issue. could be persistance of the
phospher or maybe the emission frequencies of the stuff, I don't know.
Brian

--
Brian Gaff -
Note:- In order to reduce spam, any email without 'Brian Gaff'
in the display name may be lost.
Blind user, so no pictures please!
"Davey" wrote in message
...
On Sat, 15 Oct 2011 02:36:33 -0700 (PDT)
Bolted wrote:

On Oct 15, 10:26 am, Jim S wrote:
What, exactly, is the situation regarding the phasing out of
tungsten lightbulbs?
All my main room lights are on dimmer switches so do I fill my spare
bedroom with bulbs for the future?

You can buy halogen replacements, which are pretty much identical
albeit more expensive to buy and less expensive to run.

Or you can readily buy dimmable CFLs these days.

If you really like the stone age, it is more authentic to light a fire
in the corner of the room.

There is nothing wrong with liking something as it was, such as
tungsten bulbs. My wife reacts to fluorescents, they give her
headaches.
Funnily enough, I am about to by a wood-burning stove for the
house. Maybe we'll leave the door open, so we can read by its light. g

--
Davey.

"Gareth" wrote in message
o.uk...

On 15/10/2011 10:26, Jim S wrote:
What, exactly, is the situation regarding the phasing out of tungsten
lightbulbs?
All my main room lights are on dimmer switches so do I fill my spare
bedroom with bulbs for the future?

You may already be too late, or you could be lucky and get some very cheap
in the 99p Shop or the clearance sections of other shops.

No you don't.

After the initial period where everybody mistakenly thought that it wasn't
allowed to sell 100W bulbs they are now easily available at a market stall
near you.

It will be ages before they run out of 60W bulbs

tim

One could I guess make a case that tungston should be refitted during the
cold days of winter to reduce heating costs.. grin.
Brian

--
Brian Gaff -
Note:- In order to reduce spam, any email without 'Brian Gaff'
in the display name may be lost.
Blind user, so no pictures please!
"The Natural Philosopher" wrote in message
...
Jim S wrote:
What, exactly, is the situation regarding the phasing out of tungsten
lightbulbs?
All my main room lights are on dimmer switches so do I fill my spare
bedroom with bulbs for the future?
yes.

If you like dim light and want to maximise the life of light bulbs of the
tungston persuation, then why not wire two in series. they will probably
never blow.

Brian

--
Brian Gaff -
Note:- In order to reduce spam, any email without 'Brian Gaff'
in the display name may be lost.
Blind user, so no pictures please!
"Jim S" wrote in message
...
What, exactly, is the situation regarding the phasing out of tungsten
lightbulbs?
All my main room lights are on dimmer switches so do I fill my spare
bedroom with bulbs for the future?
--
Jim S
Tyneside UK
www.jimscott.co.uk

On 15/10/2011 13:23, Brian Gaff wrote:

It would be interesting to find out what it is about the compacts that
causes this, as I too find them naff. However if you pay a bit more and get
the proper white ones, they seem to do this less. i suspect then that its
the el cheapo coatings used that are the issue. could be persistance of the
phospher or maybe the emission frequencies of the stuff, I don't know.

Probably due to their sharper rise and fall flicker...

Might also be related to their non continuous spectrum.

I must admit I am not sure why the quality of light from the compact
versions seems so poor compared to that from a traditional linear tube
ones.

--
Cheers,

John.

/================================================== ===============\
| Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk |
|-----------------------------------------------------------------|
| John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk |
\================================================= ================/

On 15/10/2011 13:26, Brian Gaff wrote:
One could I guess make a case that tungston should be refitted during the
cold days of winter to reduce heating costs.. grin.

If you have all electric heating (assuming its not a heat pump system),
then there is no real energy saving advantage to getting rid of them in
the first place!


--
Cheers,

John.

/================================================== ===============\
| Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk |
|-----------------------------------------------------------------|
| John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk |
\================================================= ================/

On 15/10/2011 13:35, John Rumm wrote:
On 15/10/2011 13:23, Brian Gaff wrote:

It would be interesting to find out what it is about the compacts that
causes this, as I too find them naff. However if you pay a bit more
and get
the proper white ones, they seem to do this less. i suspect then that its
the el cheapo coatings used that are the issue. could be persistance
of the
phospher or maybe the emission frequencies of the stuff, I don't know.

Probably due to their sharper rise and fall flicker...

Might also be related to their non continuous spectrum.

I must admit I am not sure why the quality of light from the compact
versions seems so poor compared to that from a traditional linear tube
ones.


Agree, I think it is that all CFLs available in non specialist outlets
have a low colour temp (mostly 2700K) probably in an attempt to match
incandescant. To my eyes, that just makes them an unpleasant colour and
seem dim. Linear lamps have always tried to emulate daylight and, at
least to me, preferable.

Also, converting our flourescent tubes to elecronic ballasts has made
them much more pleasant to work in as there is little or no 100Hz flicker.

Chris K

On Oct 15, 1:01*pm, "Stephen" wrote:
"Jim S" wrote in message

...

What, exactly, is the situation regarding the phasing out of tungsten
lightbulbs?
All my main room lights are on dimmer switches so do I fill my spare
bedroom with bulbs for the future?
--
Jim S
* * * *Tyneside UK
* *www.jimscott.co.uk

You've raised a point indirectly for me. I have 8 off 50 watt GU10 tungsten
bulbs on two dimmer switches, so thats a total load max of 200 watts per
dimmer. I recall that when fitting the dimmer switch, it needs a minimum
load to work properly which was 100 watts, SO I am OK if two out of our
bulbs go pop.

Now I have seen in my local Tescos that there are Philips LED GU10 lamps
that are 4 watts each and are compatible with dimmers.

So if I replace the 8 off 50 watt bulbs with these 4 watt dimmable LED
GU10's thats a load of 16 watts per dimmer knob.....

Have I got to change the dimmer switch as well?

Stephen.

Yes. You might get away with leaving the dimmer set to max all the
tiem, or switching it to max very quickly, but if you set it to dim
the CR power supply in the LED bulb will fry fairly quickly.


NT

On 15/10/2011 13:01, Stephen wrote:
"Jim wrote in message
...
What, exactly, is the situation regarding the phasing out of tungsten
lightbulbs?
All my main room lights are on dimmer switches so do I fill my spare
bedroom with bulbs for the future?

You've raised a point indirectly for me. I have 8 off 50 watt GU10 tungsten
bulbs on two dimmer switches, so thats a total load max of 200 watts per
dimmer. I recall that when fitting the dimmer switch, it needs a minimum
load to work properly which was 100 watts, SO I am OK if two out of our
bulbs go pop.

Now I have seen in my local Tescos that there are Philips LED GU10 lamps
that are 4 watts each and are compatible with dimmers.

So if I replace the 8 off 50 watt bulbs with these 4 watt dimmable LED
GU10's thats a load of 16 watts per dimmer knob.....

Have I got to change the dimmer switch as well?

Probably... or use a combination of real bulbs and energy saving to keep
above the threshold but reduce the total. This can also work well with
multibulb fittings I find - you can use a few CFLs to keep the spaces
populated and running costs down, while contributing some[1] light, but
have a real tungsten one in there as well to give proper colour
rendition ans usable illumination.

[1] For example one of the fittings in my hall has three separate BC
lamp holders. Its fitted with two 7W compact candle CFLs that claim 40W
filament lamp equivalence, and one traditional 40W clear candle bulb.
Using a Lux meter 6' below the fitting shows that the two CFLs (when
warmed up) provide 14 lux between them. Adding the incandescent brings
the total up to 36 lux.


--
Cheers,

John.

/================================================== ===============\
| Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk |
|-----------------------------------------------------------------|
| John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk |
\================================================= ================/

In article ,
John Rumm wrote:

I must admit I am not sure why the quality of light from the compact
versions seems so poor compared to that from a traditional linear tube
ones.

Cost and size? Maximum perceived light output seems to be the selling war
- not the quality of it. And given the quoted light output is just not in
the same ballpark as most see from a GLS, it makes me wonder why they
bother.

It's rather like the official MPG figures for cars. Pie in the sky. So
only useful for comparing two similar products by anoraks.

--
*How many roads must a man travel down before he admits he is lost?

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

In article ,
Jim S writes:
What, exactly, is the situation regarding the phasing out of tungsten
lightbulbs?
All my main room lights are on dimmer switches so do I fill my spare
bedroom with bulbs for the future?

Across the extended family, we have two rooms with dimmers.

1) Central light taking 5 x SES 25W candles.

There's an 18W halogen replacement, and I tried one.
It was very noticably dimmer than the 25W candles, so I went
to the next size up, 28W halogen. That's fine, so they've now
all been replaced with 28W halogens. So far, none of the
halogen replacements have died, and the increase in light
output has been welcomed.

2) Central light with 3 x BC 60W cables plus 2 x 60W wall lights.

In this case, I wanted to reduce power consumption, mindful of
the 300W of lighting, but the fittings/shades were very much
wanted, and so I had to think of some way which retained them.
I decided to convert them all to 12V halogens.

I made up five adaptors to convert BC to GY6.35 (bi-pin), so I
could retrofit 12V capsule lamps, being careful to make them so
filament position was the same as with the 60W candles.
http://www.cucumber.demon.co.uk/lights/adapter.jpg
I bought 35W 12V halogen capsules to replace the 60W mains lamps.

The dimmable electronic transformers are mounted in a vented
metal case in the room above (including additional self-resetting
termal trips), but this required some rewiring, which was
fortunately easily done as there's currently no floor covering
in the room above (which was the reason for doing this now).

Two further considerations. 12V lighting will draw 20 times
more current on the 12V side, so consideration needs to be given
to the current carry capacity of conductors. Secondly, I want to
be able to revert to mains lamps in the future without gaining
access under the floor again, so any new cabling used will still
be mains to allow reuse in the future.

The central light at 3 x 35W 12V will draw 8.75A which is within
the capabilities of 1mm T&E, so I did try using the existing
wiring, but with the expectation the voltage drop would be too
high for efficient 12V operation, and indeed it was. So I swapped
this for 2.5mm cable. What surprised me was this didn't make much
difference - I was still losing too much in the cable - much more
than I initially calculated, until I remembered the output is high
frequency, and the skin effect. Didn't have any 4mm cable, so went
straight to 6mm, and that worked fine, helped (from the skin effect
perspective) by being multi-conductor. The 1mm cable seemed to be
OK for the wall lights, one of which was directly below the
transformer, but I did change out a length of the other one for
2.5mm just to give a bit more headroom. I also rewired the central
light itself, using 2.5mm extra-flexible test meter singles from
the rose down to the point where it splits to each lampholder.

Anyway, this has been a stunning success. Unfortunately, I didn't
actually measure the light level in the room before starting, but
the 35W 12V halogen capsules produce noticably more light than
the 60W 240V candles had done (although the halogen capsules are
high efficiency type).

--
Andrew Gabriel
[email address is not usable -- followup in the newsgroup]

On Sat, 15 Oct 2011 12:19:38 +0100, Gazz wrote:

"Bert Coules" wrote in message
...
Dave Plowman wrote:

It's only *some* tungsten lamps which are 'banned'. Mainly GLS (basic
lamps). 'Specials' - like it seems you have - are still available.

Thanks for that. Mine are R50s - I couldn't remember the designation when
I wrote my last post. I'm puzzled though: what's the justification for
doing away with the larger bulbs and not the smaller?

the larger bulbs use more power, which apparantly means more greenarse
gasses produced, which is killing the plannet they rekon, so get rid of them
and the greenarses can feel smug that they have done their bit to save the
planet,

don't worry, they'll get to the smaller bulbs in time, then they will start
moaning about the mercury in the cfl's and make us switch to led's, untill
someone points out something bad about the manafacture of them and they make
us all use fart gas for lighting... they produce enough of it, so may as
well burn it for light.

As of course was the first street lighting.
--
Jim S

In article ,
"Brian Gaff" writes:
It would be interesting to find out what it is about the compacts that
causes this, as I too find them naff. However if you pay a bit more and get
the proper white ones, they seem to do this less. i suspect then that its
the el cheapo coatings used that are the issue. could be persistance of the
phospher or maybe the emission frequencies of the stuff, I don't know.

No one's been able to find out, because in double-blind tests,
the claimed effects show no correleation with type of lighting.

There was certainly a measurable effect with poorly made
linear tubes running at mains frequency which end up
slightly rectifying and generating 50Hz or 60Hz flicker.
But that doesn't apply to CFLs.

Of course, you can buy cheap CFLs with poor coatings and
colour rendering, but they're actually quite hard to find
if you stear clear of no-names.

--
Andrew Gabriel
[email address is not usable -- followup in the newsgroup]

In article ,
"Stephen" writes:
You've raised a point indirectly for me. I have 8 off 50 watt GU10 tungsten
bulbs on two dimmer switches, so thats a total load max of 200 watts per
dimmer. I recall that when fitting the dimmer switch, it needs a minimum
load to work properly which was 100 watts, SO I am OK if two out of our
bulbs go pop.

40W is normal min load, unless the dimmer is much higher power.

Now I have seen in my local Tescos that there are Philips LED GU10 lamps
that are 4 watts each and are compatible with dimmers.

So if I replace the 8 off 50 watt bulbs with these 4 watt dimmable LED
GU10's thats a load of 16 watts per dimmer knob.....

Have I got to change the dimmer switch as well?

Yes, after swapping for LEDs you'll need to change it to a
brightener instead, but that doesn't exist ;-)

--
Andrew Gabriel
[email address is not usable -- followup in the newsgroup]

On Oct 15, 10:41*am, Davey wrote:
On Sat, 15 Oct 2011 02:36:33 -0700 (PDT)

Bolted wrote:
On Oct 15, 10:26*am, Jim S wrote:
What, exactly, is the situation regarding the phasing out of
tungsten lightbulbs?
All my main room lights are on dimmer switches so do I fill my spare
bedroom with bulbs for the future?

You can buy halogen replacements, which are pretty much identical
albeit more expensive to buy and less expensive to run.

Or you can readily buy dimmable CFLs these days.

If you really like the stone age, it is more authentic to light a fire
in the corner of the room.

There is nothing wrong with liking something as it was, such as
tungsten bulbs. *My wife reacts to fluorescents, they give her
headaches.
Funnily enough, I am about to by a wood-burning stove for the
house. Maybe we'll leave the door open, so we can read by its light. g

--
Davey.


If you get high frequency fluorescents (electronic ballast) she should
not be affected.
CFLs are high frequency.

In article ,
Bolted wrote:

You can buy halogen replacements, which are pretty much identical
albeit more expensive to buy and less expensive to run.

beware if running them at an angle. We have a load of these, and in the
dining room they fit in a lamp at something like 45 deg. Similarly, another
one fits horizontally. They fail really quickly - looking at them it seems
the filament isn't supported well enough and it drops and breaks. The ones
that are either in pendants or upright in table lamps are great and have
lasted well.

Or you can readily buy dimmable CFLs these days.

Ignoring the fact that many of these give horrible light, you have to be
careful using them with dimmers. Many dimmers (older ones anyway) have a
minimul wattage to work reliably - they won't all drive dimmerable CFLs
reliably.

Darren

I wonderhow much radio frequency interference all this causes if there are
any folk with hobbies in the radio reception or ham area, you might
otherwise become public enemy no 1!
Brian

--
Brian Gaff -
Note:- In order to reduce spam, any email without 'Brian Gaff'
in the display name may be lost.
Blind user, so no pictures please!
"Andrew Gabriel" wrote in message
...
In article ,
Jim S writes:
What, exactly, is the situation regarding the phasing out of tungsten
lightbulbs?
All my main room lights are on dimmer switches so do I fill my spare
bedroom with bulbs for the future?

Across the extended family, we have two rooms with dimmers.

1) Central light taking 5 x SES 25W candles.

There's an 18W halogen replacement, and I tried one.
It was very noticably dimmer than the 25W candles, so I went
to the next size up, 28W halogen. That's fine, so they've now
all been replaced with 28W halogens. So far, none of the
halogen replacements have died, and the increase in light
output has been welcomed.

2) Central light with 3 x BC 60W cables plus 2 x 60W wall lights.

In this case, I wanted to reduce power consumption, mindful of
the 300W of lighting, but the fittings/shades were very much
wanted, and so I had to think of some way which retained them.
I decided to convert them all to 12V halogens.

I made up five adaptors to convert BC to GY6.35 (bi-pin), so I
could retrofit 12V capsule lamps, being careful to make them so
filament position was the same as with the 60W candles.
http://www.cucumber.demon.co.uk/lights/adapter.jpg
I bought 35W 12V halogen capsules to replace the 60W mains lamps.

The dimmable electronic transformers are mounted in a vented
metal case in the room above (including additional self-resetting
termal trips), but this required some rewiring, which was
fortunately easily done as there's currently no floor covering
in the room above (which was the reason for doing this now).

Two further considerations. 12V lighting will draw 20 times
more current on the 12V side, so consideration needs to be given
to the current carry capacity of conductors. Secondly, I want to
be able to revert to mains lamps in the future without gaining
access under the floor again, so any new cabling used will still
be mains to allow reuse in the future.

The central light at 3 x 35W 12V will draw 8.75A which is within
the capabilities of 1mm T&E, so I did try using the existing
wiring, but with the expectation the voltage drop would be too
high for efficient 12V operation, and indeed it was. So I swapped
this for 2.5mm cable. What surprised me was this didn't make much
difference - I was still losing too much in the cable - much more
than I initially calculated, until I remembered the output is high
frequency, and the skin effect. Didn't have any 4mm cable, so went
straight to 6mm, and that worked fine, helped (from the skin effect
perspective) by being multi-conductor. The 1mm cable seemed to be
OK for the wall lights, one of which was directly below the
transformer, but I did change out a length of the other one for
2.5mm just to give a bit more headroom. I also rewired the central
light itself, using 2.5mm extra-flexible test meter singles from
the rose down to the point where it splits to each lampholder.

Anyway, this has been a stunning success. Unfortunately, I didn't
actually measure the light level in the room before starting, but
the 35W 12V halogen capsules produce noticably more light than
the 60W 240V candles had done (although the halogen capsules are
high efficiency type).

--
Andrew Gabriel
[email address is not usable -- followup in the newsgroup]

Gazz wrote:


"Bert Coules" wrote in message
...
Dave Plowman wrote:

It's only *some* tungsten lamps which are 'banned'. Mainly GLS (basic
lamps). 'Specials' - like it seems you have - are still available.

Thanks for that. Mine are R50s - I couldn't remember the designation
when I wrote my last post. I'm puzzled though: what's the
justification for doing away with the larger bulbs and not the smaller?

the larger bulbs use more power, which apparantly means more greenarse
gasses produced, which is killing the plannet they rekon, so get rid of
them and the greenarses can feel smug that they have done their bit to
save the planet,

don't worry, they'll get to the smaller bulbs in time, then they will
start moaning about the mercury in the cfl's and make us switch to
led's, untill someone points out something bad about the manafacture of
them and they make us all use fart gas for lighting... they produce
enough of it, so may as well burn it for light.
+1
Made me smile anyway..

Try here for an expanded version of what you are saying

http://www.clarewind.org.uk/events-1.php?event=35

Brian Gaff wrote:
One could I guess make a case that tungston should be refitted during the
cold days of winter to reduce heating costs.. grin.
Brian

More to the point if using nuclear electricity a light bulb at 100%
efficiency is similar to oil at 40-50p a liter pricewise and creates no
CO2 at all.

In article ,
"Brian Gaff" writes:
I wonderhow much radio frequency interference all this causes if there are
any folk with hobbies in the radio reception or ham area, you might
otherwise become public enemy no 1!

The original dimmer (going back some years) did interfere slightly
with MW or LW (can't remember which), but it was changed for an X10
DIN rail dimmer some 8-10 years ago as part of the home automation,
and I don't recall getting any interference from that. I guess
there's the potential for the 12V supply to generate some.

I'll try a MW or LW radio (if I can find one) and let you know.
It certainly doesn't interfere with FM.

--
Andrew Gabriel
[email address is not usable -- followup in the newsgroup]

On Sat, 15 Oct 2011 13:52:22 +0000 (UTC), Andrew Gabriel wrote:

Yes, after swapping for LEDs you'll need to change it to a
brightener instead, but that doesn't exist ;-)

LED is getting there. Bought the pack of three LED torches on offer
in Costco this month (£12.58 inc VAT). Flippin eck they is bright.
Quoted battery life (3 x AAA's) is only 4 hours on 50% but they are
the best torch I have had for a long time. Single CREE LED, quoted at
150 lumens. It knocks spots of 3D cell or 6D cell maglights, no dark
spot in the middle, very light and compact, not so good as a weapon
but you could blind 'em instead. B-)

You do have to watch the ratings though. I waiting for a LED GLS
replacement to come along. Saw somthing the other day in Bean 'n
Queued that was a clear GLS envelope with a rid inside covered with
LED elements. Nearly bought one to try until I spotted the light
output was only 100 lumen. They also had some other LED GLS shaped
things but I think the light only came out of the rounded top not,
more or less, in all directions, unsurprisingly these had an output
around 500 lumen presumably on axis of the beam...

--
Cheers
Dave.

On 15/10/2011 14:05, Andrew Gabriel wrote:

I made up five adaptors to convert BC to GY6.35 (bi-pin), so I
could retrofit 12V capsule lamps, being careful to make them so
filament position was the same as with the 60W candles.
http://www.cucumber.demon.co.uk/lights/adapter.jpg
I bought 35W 12V halogen capsules to replace the 60W mains lamps.

You would think there would be a commercial market for something like
this that includes a small SMPSU in the base to facilitate use of 12V
lamps in mains fittings. (I have seen commercial ones that take G9 mains
halogen capsules).



--
Cheers,

John.

/================================================== ===============\
| Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk |
|-----------------------------------------------------------------|
| John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk |
\================================================= ================/

On 15/10/2011 22:20, Dave Liquorice wrote:

You do have to watch the ratings though. I waiting for a LED GLS
replacement to come along. Saw somthing the other day in Bean 'n
Queued that was a clear GLS envelope with a rid inside covered with
LED elements. Nearly bought one to try until I spotted the light
output was only 100 lumen. They also had some other LED GLS shaped
things but I think the light only came out of the rounded top not,
more or less, in all directions, unsurprisingly these had an output
around 500 lumen presumably on axis of the beam...

Leeds branch of Clas Ohlson had the "LEDs on a PCB in a GLS" the first
(and so far only) time I went in for a look around. Wasn't tempted to
buy one to try though. Seemed like a convenience store for those who
can't be bothered to shop around. 50cm SATA cable for £4.99 anyone?

On Sat, 15 Oct 2011 22:20:17 +0100 (BST)
"Dave Liquorice" wrote:

On Sat, 15 Oct 2011 13:52:22 +0000 (UTC), Andrew Gabriel wrote:

Yes, after swapping for LEDs you'll need to change it to a
brightener instead, but that doesn't exist ;-)

LED is getting there. Bought the pack of three LED torches on offer
in Costco this month (£12.58 inc VAT). Flippin eck they is bright.
Quoted battery life (3 x AAA's) is only 4 hours on 50% but they are
the best torch I have had for a long time. Single CREE LED, quoted at
150 lumens. It knocks spots of 3D cell or 6D cell maglights, no dark
spot in the middle, very light and compact, not so good as a weapon.

In Detroit, the 5 D-cell Maglights are known as Malice Green lights,
after a guy who was beaten to desth by cops using these.
See:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Malice_Green
Don't mess with Detroit cops, especially if you happen to be black
and poor! Being stoned doesn't help, either.
--
Davey.
--
Davey.

In article ,
John Rumm writes:
On 15/10/2011 14:05, Andrew Gabriel wrote:

I made up five adaptors to convert BC to GY6.35 (bi-pin), so I
could retrofit 12V capsule lamps, being careful to make them so
filament position was the same as with the 60W candles.
http://www.cucumber.demon.co.uk/lights/adapter.jpg
I bought 35W 12V halogen capsules to replace the 60W mains lamps.

You would think there would be a commercial market for something like
this that includes a small SMPSU in the base to facilitate use of 12V
lamps in mains fittings. (I have seen commercial ones that take G9 mains
halogen capsules).

Yes, but I think it would be a difficult sell - people just don't
understand lighting.

Someone (Philips, I think) did produce a GLS-like lamp with a LV
halogen capsule and SMPSU in the base. The capsule was not changable,
you chucked it all out when the filament (or SMPSU) broke. They were
only available in rather low power ratings, probably because the
heat from something like a 35W halogen would kill a SMPSU. I don't
recall if they were dimmable either. They were very expensive and I
haven't seen them around for some time now.

--
Andrew Gabriel
[email address is not usable -- followup in the newsgroup]

On Oct 15, 7:51*pm, The Natural Philosopher
wrote:
Brian Gaff wrote:
One could I guess make a case that tungston should be refitted during the
cold days of winter to reduce heating costs.. grin.
*Brian

More to the point if using nuclear electricity a light bulb at 100%
efficiency is similar to oil at 40-50p a liter *pricewise and creates no
CO2 at all.

Cobblers.

In message , Brian Gaff
writes
If you like dim light and want to maximise the life of light bulbs of the
tungston persuation, then why not wire two in series. they will probably
never blow.

Hence the expression "as dim as two Toc H lamps in series" (a favourite
of one of one of my elderly works colleagues).
--
Ian

In message , Gareth
writes

On 15/10/2011 10:26, Jim S wrote:
What, exactly, is the situation regarding the phasing out of tungsten
lightbulbs?
All my main room lights are on dimmer switches so do I fill my spare
bedroom with bulbs for the future?

You may already be too late, or you could be lucky and get some very
cheap in the 99p Shop or the clearance sections of other shops.

You can now get halogen bulbs inside ordinary light bulbs. These work
with ordinary dimmers, they come on instantly and, in my opinion, they
give a much nicer light than CFLs. They are slightly more efficient
that the traditional light bulbs e.g. 42W replacing 60W (but nowhere
near as efficient as CFLs).

In that case it must either give out less light or less heat, and as
pointed out elsewhere the heat given off reduces the demand on the
heating system for most of the year., so they are only more efficient in
summer.
--
hugh