In message , Gazz writes


"Bert Coules" wrote in message
...
Dave Plowman wrote:

It's only *some* tungsten lamps which are 'banned'. Mainly GLS (basic
lamps). 'Specials' - like it seems you have - are still available.

Thanks for that. Mine are R50s - I couldn't remember the designation
when I wrote my last post. I'm puzzled though: what's the
justification for doing away with the larger bulbs and not the smaller?

the larger bulbs use more power, which apparantly means more greenarse
gasses produced, which is killing the plannet they rekon, so get rid of
them and the greenarses can feel smug that they have done their bit to
save the planet,

don't worry, they'll get to the smaller bulbs in time, then they will
start moaning about the mercury in the cfl's and make us switch to
led's, untill someone points out something bad about the manafacture of
them and they make us all use fart gas for lighting... they produce
enough of it, so may as well burn it for light.
I have cfl that has failed. The only way to get rid of it legit is tot
take it to the local tip which is a round trip of about 8 miles using
over a litre of petrol at £1.38 in my Landie. (No bus service goes
anywhere near)
--
hugh

In message
,
Owain writes
On Oct 15, 11:56*am, "Bert Coules" wrote:
Thanks for that. *Mine are R50s - I couldn't remember the designation when I
wrote my last post. *I'm puzzled though: what's the justification for doing
away with the larger bulbs and not the smaller?

Bulb manufacturers make more profit on the fancy smaller bulbs.

Bulb manufacturers lobby the EU for changes in the lightbulb laws.

Owain

And the people who make the decisions are not answerable to anyone -
neither electors nor consumers.
--
hugh

In message , John
Rumm writes
On 15/10/2011 13:01, Stephen wrote:
"Jim wrote in message
...
What, exactly, is the situation regarding the phasing out of tungsten
lightbulbs?
All my main room lights are on dimmer switches so do I fill my spare
bedroom with bulbs for the future?

You've raised a point indirectly for me. I have 8 off 50 watt GU10 tungsten
bulbs on two dimmer switches, so thats a total load max of 200 watts per
dimmer. I recall that when fitting the dimmer switch, it needs a minimum
load to work properly which was 100 watts, SO I am OK if two out of our
bulbs go pop.

Now I have seen in my local Tescos that there are Philips LED GU10 lamps
that are 4 watts each and are compatible with dimmers.

So if I replace the 8 off 50 watt bulbs with these 4 watt dimmable LED
GU10's thats a load of 16 watts per dimmer knob.....

Have I got to change the dimmer switch as well?

Probably... or use a combination of real bulbs and energy saving to
keep above the threshold but reduce the total. This can also work well
with multibulb fittings I find - you can use a few CFLs to keep the
spaces populated and running costs down, while contributing some[1]
light, but have a real tungsten one in there as well to give proper
colour rendition ans usable illumination.

[1] For example one of the fittings in my hall has three separate BC
lamp holders. Its fitted with two 7W compact candle CFLs that claim 40W
filament lamp equivalence, and one traditional 40W clear candle bulb.
Using a Lux meter 6' below the fitting shows that the two CFLs (when
warmed up) provide 14 lux between them. Adding the incandescent brings
the total up to 36 lux.


I have 4 Par38 downlighters in the kitchen. Two are now CFL equivalents.
2 are 80w incandescent. The latter give instant light and are over the
sink and hob so give welcome heat in winter
--
hugh

In article ,
hugh ] writes:
In message , Gareth
writes

You can now get halogen bulbs inside ordinary light bulbs. These work
with ordinary dimmers, they come on instantly and, in my opinion, they
give a much nicer light than CFLs. They are slightly more efficient
that the traditional light bulbs e.g. 42W replacing 60W (but nowhere
near as efficient as CFLs).

In that case it must either give out less light or less heat, and as

Less of both.

As mentioned in another thread, I tried swapping 25W candles for
their replacements which are 18W halogens - noticabley dimmer.
Had to go up to the 28W version (which is supposed to replace 40W).
Actually, nowhere on the packaging for any of these lamps that I
have does it claim they have the same light output was the ones
they are supposed to replace. I can easily show with a light meter
that the 70W and 42W (100W and 60W replacements) are dimmer than
their original GLS lamps.

--
Andrew Gabriel
[email address is not usable -- followup in the newsgroup]

In article ,
hugh ] writes:
In message , John
Rumm writes
Probably... or use a combination of real bulbs and energy saving to
keep above the threshold but reduce the total. This can also work well
with multibulb fittings I find - you can use a few CFLs to keep the
spaces populated and running costs down, while contributing some[1]
light, but have a real tungsten one in there as well to give proper
colour rendition ans usable illumination.

[1] For example one of the fittings in my hall has three separate BC
lamp holders. Its fitted with two 7W compact candle CFLs that claim 40W
filament lamp equivalence, and one traditional 40W clear candle bulb.

Equivalence of a 7W CFL will be about 4 x 7 = 28W.
CFL candles usually have quite a lossy outer bulb, which will drag
that down. If the fittings rely on the expected filament position
for lamp optics, then much of the light from the CFL comes from
elsewhere on the lamp.

Using a Lux meter 6' below the fitting shows that the two CFLs (when
warmed up) provide 14 lux between them. Adding the incandescent brings
the total up to 36 lux.

I have 4 Par38 downlighters in the kitchen. Two are now CFL equivalents.
2 are 80w incandescent. The latter give instant light and are over the
sink and hob so give welcome heat in winter

If the fittings are well ventilated, you might consider a GE Genura,
although it's an R80 replacement so might not fit well in some cases.
The GE Genura is a 23W electrodeless CFL, with slightly more light
output than a 100W R80, and thus fairly unique in generating more
light than the filament lamp it replaces in the same size. They
are expensive, but should last a long time providing they don't run
too hot (they have no electrodes to wear out, which is the normal
CFL failure mode). B&Q used to stock them (not looked for ages though.)

--
Andrew Gabriel
[email address is not usable -- followup in the newsgroup]

On 16/10/2011 19:44, Andrew Gabriel wrote:
In ,
] writes:
In messageaeGdnaQRTI2MHgTTnZ2dnUVZ8hmdnZ2d@brightvie w.co.uk, John
writes
Probably... or use a combination of real bulbs and energy saving to
keep above the threshold but reduce the total. This can also work well
with multibulb fittings I find - you can use a few CFLs to keep the
spaces populated and running costs down, while contributing some[1]
light, but have a real tungsten one in there as well to give proper
colour rendition ans usable illumination.

[1] For example one of the fittings in my hall has three separate BC
lamp holders. Its fitted with two 7W compact candle CFLs that claim 40W
filament lamp equivalence, and one traditional 40W clear candle bulb.

Equivalence of a 7W CFL will be about 4 x 7 = 28W.

I would estimate more like 3 x 7 in this case...

Its a difficult one to judge - with all three on, there is not much
visible difference looking at the lamps, or for that matter looking at
the light spilling on the walls. However, the moment the filament lamp
fails, its a case "who turned out the lights?", the loss in overall
illumination is then very noticeable (whereas removing one of the CFLs
does not make much difference).

On the bright side, they are physically similar in appearance, and a
good colour temperature match (even if not comparable for colour rendition).

CFL candles usually have quite a lossy outer bulb, which will drag
that down. If the fittings rely on the expected filament position
for lamp optics, then much of the light from the CFL comes from
elsewhere on the lamp.

No these are cap up, on a three armed pendent affair with hemispherical
semi opaque glass shades above, and a dangly bits round the bottom - so
the bulb is free to do its stuff without interference.



--
Cheers,

John.

/================================================== ===============\
| Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk |
|-----------------------------------------------------------------|
| John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk |
\================================================= ================/

On Sat, 15 Oct 2011 11:36:40 +0100, "Dave Plowman (News)"
wrote:

In article
,
Bolted wrote:
You can buy halogen replacements, which are pretty much identical
albeit more expensive to buy and less expensive to run.

Or you can readily buy dimmable CFLs these days.

If you really like the stone age, it is more authentic to light a fire
in the corner of the room.

Quite. Although the implementation I see in most houses where they're
paranoid about changed to CFL is more akin to candle light, level wise.
But without the pleasant effect.

And, like candles, they take a while to reach full brightness.
--
(\__/) M.
(='.'=) Due to the amount of spam posted via googlegroups and
(")_(") their inaction to the problem. I am blocking some articles
posted from there. If you wish your postings to be seen by
everyone you will need use a different method of posting.

On Oct 15, 10:53*am, Gareth wrote:
On 15/10/2011 10:26, Jim S wrote:

What, exactly, is the situation regarding the phasing out of tungsten
lightbulbs?
All my main room lights are on dimmer switches so do I fill my spare
bedroom with bulbs for the future?

You may already be too late, or you could be lucky and get some very
cheap in the 99p Shop or the clearance sections of other shops.

Or Asda, or Morrisons, or Tesco, or... They are still widely
available, just not in 100W versions.

MBQ

On Sun, 16 Oct 2011 19:44:50 +0100, Andrew Gabriel
wrote:

If the fittings are well ventilated, you might consider a GE Genura,
although it's an R80 replacement so might not fit well in some cases.

I have six GE Genuras in a ceiling track fitting (it's a big room!).
Their brightness is impressive, but like all CFLs (IME) they fail suddenly
long before their advertised lifetime, and they're jolly expensive to
replace. Temperature may be an issue, because they're in bog standard
unventilated fittings, but being intended as an R80 replacement surely
that's exactly what they should be designed for?

I'm surprised the manufacturers can get away with quoting an 'average
lifetime' that is only achievable if the lamp has good ventilation,
something which I would think is hardly ever the case with an R80 fitting.

Richard.
http://www.rtrussell.co.uk/

hugh ] writes:

In that case it must either give out less light or less heat, and as
pointed out elsewhere the heat given off reduces the demand on the
heating system for most of the year., so they are only more efficient in
summer.

And the light ends up as heat!


--
Windmill, Use t m i l l
J.R.R. Tolkien:- @ O n e t e l . c o m
All that is gold does not glister / Not all who wander are lost

hugh ] writes:

And the people who make the decisions are not answerable to anyone -
neither electors nor consumers.

In practice, that's an accurate description of any gov't.

--
Windmill, Use t m i l l
J.R.R. Tolkien:- @ O n e t e l . c o m
All that is gold does not glister / Not all who wander are lost

In article op.v3h7f6apn5ksl5@richard,
Richard Russell wrote:
If the fittings are well ventilated, you might consider a GE Genura,
although it's an R80 replacement so might not fit well in some cases.

I have six GE Genuras in a ceiling track fitting (it's a big room!).
Their brightness is impressive, but like all CFLs (IME) they fail
suddenly long before their advertised lifetime, and they're jolly
expensive to replace. Temperature may be an issue, because they're in
bog standard unventilated fittings, but being intended as an R80
replacement surely that's exactly what they should be designed for?

I'm surprised the manufacturers can get away with quoting an 'average
lifetime' that is only achievable if the lamp has good ventilation,
something which I would think is hardly ever the case with an R80
fitting.

I've tried them too. Very impressive. But what seems to be the problem is
if they are run pointing downwards - as pretty well all spots are - the
heat from the unit effects the life of the electronics. And at that high
cost it saved me no money at all over a tungsten. If pointing upwards,
they may well have their claimed life...

--
*Time is the best teacher; unfortunately it kills all its students.

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

On Mon, 17 Oct 2011 18:05:19 +0100
"Dave Plowman (News)" wrote:

In article op.v3h7f6apn5ksl5@richard,
Richard Russell wrote:
If the fittings are well ventilated, you might consider a GE
Genura, although it's an R80 replacement so might not fit well in
some cases.

I have six GE Genuras in a ceiling track fitting (it's a big room!).
Their brightness is impressive, but like all CFLs (IME) they fail
suddenly long before their advertised lifetime, and they're jolly
expensive to replace. Temperature may be an issue, because they're
in bog standard unventilated fittings, but being intended as an R80
replacement surely that's exactly what they should be designed for?

I'm surprised the manufacturers can get away with quoting an
'average lifetime' that is only achievable if the lamp has good
ventilation, something which I would think is hardly ever the case
with an R80 fitting.

I've tried them too. Very impressive. But what seems to be the
problem is if they are run pointing downwards - as pretty well all
spots are - the heat from the unit effects the life of the
electronics. And at that high cost it saved me no money at all over a
tungsten. If pointing upwards, they may well have their claimed
life...


Our house has lots of previously-installed upward-pointing lights. I
hate them. But that seems to be the trend, illuminate your ceiling.
Strange.
--
Davey.

"Richard Russell" writes:

I have six GE Genuras in a ceiling track fitting (it's a big room!).
Their brightness is impressive, but like all CFLs (IME) they fail suddenly
long before their advertised lifetime, and they're jolly expensive to
replace.

Indeed. The expense is the reason I never bought any.

But I wonder if the early failures (of all types) could be due in part
to surge voltages on the mains.

In this country the surges may not be as frequent, but people in Canada
who were at the end of miles of overhead power lines could expect a few
equipment failures every time there was a powerful thunderstorm. (I
remember a nuclear research place!)

And a GE blurb reported surges/spikes of 1000V. in such circumstances.

AIR CPC once sold surge suppressors which could be fitted in a consumer
unit. Something like that might help.


--
Windmill, Use t m i l l
J.R.R. Tolkien:- @ O n e t e l . c o m
All that is gold does not glister / Not all who wander are lost

Davey writes:

Our house has lots of previously-installed upward-pointing lights. I
hate them. But that seems to be the trend, illuminate your ceiling.
Strange.

Simulate the outdoors?

--
Windmill, Use t m i l l
J.R.R. Tolkien:- @ O n e t e l . c o m
All that is gold does not glister / Not all who wander are lost

On 15-10-2011 13:26, Brian Gaff wrote:
One could I guess make a case that tungston should be refitted during the
cold days of winter to reduce heating costs.. grin.
Brian

Attractive idea except that heat rises so you will be adding heat to
where it eventually ends up that's why most heating systems are low down
close to the floor where all the cold air is.

On Oct 15, 11:36*am, Bolted wrote:

You can buy halogen replacements, which are pretty much identical
albeit more expensive to buy and less expensive to run.

Will halogens end up being phased out as well?

The GU10s in the spotlight plates I have a lot of in my house kick out
an almighty amount of heat. FWIW, I like this, because it saves
putting the heating on if it's only *a bit* on the cold side.

Neil

On Oct 15, 2:01*pm, "Stephen" wrote:

Now I have seen in my local Tescos that there are Philips LED GU10 lamps
that are 4 watts each and are compatible with dimmers.

I have two of those in my hallway. Tried them in the lounge out of
interest, and they are not as bright as 50W halogens, so be careful.

If they're not warm white, don't bother, either. LED light is
otherwise very blue.

Neil

On Oct 16, 12:37*am, Davey wrote:

In Detroit, the 5 D-cell Maglights are known as Malice Green lights,
after a guy who was beaten to desth by cops using these.
See:http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Malice_Green
Don't mess with Detroit cops, especially if you happen to be black
and poor! Being stoned doesn't help, either.

Given that 2 or 3D is bright enough for most purposes, I have always
assumed that the only reason security guards carry them is so they can
use them as weapons without having to worry about getting into trouble
for carrying them.

Neil

On Tue, 18 Oct 2011 01:58:43 -0700 (PDT)
Neil Williams wrote:

On Oct 16, 12:37Â*am, Davey wrote:

In Detroit, the 5 D-cell Maglights are known as Malice Green lights,
after a guy who was beaten to desth by cops using these.
See:http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Malice_Green
Don't mess with Detroit cops, especially if you happen to be black
and poor! Being stoned doesn't help, either.

Given that 2 or 3D is bright enough for most purposes, I have always
assumed that the only reason security guards carry them is so they can
use them as weapons without having to worry about getting into trouble
for carrying them.

Neil

Sounds right. You don't need more than 3x3D cells for looking into cars.
-
Davey.

On 18 Oct 2011 09:10:20 GMT
Huge wrote:

Neil Williams wrote:

Quote:
"Ah, but what you do is replace 2 of the
batteries in a 5-cell with a stack of coins (2p's in the UK, no idea
what the merkins use) to make the flashlight a better cosh. Or so I'm
told."

And wait for it to melt in your hand? Rather you than me.
My wife's handbag is like the one that little old lady used a few
months ago to stop a jewellery shop robbery, so I feel safe!

Where did the text go, that I was replying to? Strange, it was there in
the original, but I had to copy and paste it for this reply.
--
Davey.

Huge wrote:
[snip]

I don't own a Maglight. I have a diver's torch that serves the same purpose.

How does the diver find his way around?

In article , Neil Williams wrote:
On Oct 16, 12:37*am, Davey wrote:

In Detroit, the 5 D-cell Maglights are known as Malice Green lights,
after a guy who was beaten to desth by cops using these.
See:http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Malice_Green
Don't mess with Detroit cops, especially if you happen to be black
and poor! Being stoned doesn't help, either.

Given that 2 or 3D is bright enough for most purposes, I have always
assumed that the only reason security guards carry them is so they can
use them as weapons without having to worry about getting into trouble
for carrying them.

See also
http://www.niton999.co.uk/shop/produ...ode_AA319.html
http://www.amazon.com/Black-Maglite-.../dp/B001D4CTII
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Baton_%...e-handle_baton

On Mon, 17 Oct 2011 08:51:54 -0700 (PDT), Man at B&Q wrote:

On Oct 15, 10:53*am, Gareth wrote:
On 15/10/2011 10:26, Jim S wrote:

What, exactly, is the situation regarding the phasing out of tungsten
lightbulbs?
All my main room lights are on dimmer switches so do I fill my spare
bedroom with bulbs for the future?

You may already be too late, or you could be lucky and get some very
cheap in the 99p Shop or the clearance sections of other shops.

Or Asda, or Morrisons, or Tesco, or... They are still widely
available, just not in 100W versions.

MBQ

Thank you.
That was all I wanted to know )
--
Jim S
Tyneside UK
www.jimscott.co.uk

On 18 Oct 2011 10:12:56 GMT
Huge wrote:

On 2011-10-18, Davey wrote:
On 18 Oct 2011 09:10:20 GMT
Huge wrote:

Neil Williams wrote:

Quote:
"Ah, but what you do is replace 2 of the
batteries in a 5-cell with a stack of coins (2p's in the UK, no idea
what the merkins use) to make the flashlight a better cosh. Or so
I'm told."

And wait for it to melt in your hand?

Why would it melt?


I have always felt that putting coins inside a torch would be akin to
carrying a fully charged battery in a pocket full of coins, ie asking
for a short right where you don't want it.
--
Davey.

In article ,
Davey wrote:
On 18 Oct 2011 10:12:56 GMT
Huge wrote:

On 2011-10-18, Davey wrote:
On 18 Oct 2011 09:10:20 GMT
Huge wrote:

Neil Williams wrote:

Quote:
"Ah, but what you do is replace 2 of the
batteries in a 5-cell with a stack of coins (2p's in the UK, no idea
what the merkins use) to make the flashlight a better cosh. Or so
I'm told."

And wait for it to melt in your hand?

Why would it melt?


I have always felt that putting coins inside a torch would be akin to
carrying a fully charged battery in a pocket full of coins, ie asking
for a short right where you don't want it.

Not if they are fitted in so nothing can move.

--
From KT24

Using a RISC OS computer running v5.16

On 18/10/2011 09:35, Rob wrote:
On 15-10-2011 13:26, Brian Gaff wrote:
One could I guess make a case that tungston should be refitted during the
cold days of winter to reduce heating costs.. grin.
Brian

Attractive idea except that heat rises so you will be adding heat to
where it eventually ends up that's why most heating systems are low down
close to the floor where all the cold air is.

Assuming you have other sources of heating, then it does not really
matter. If the air in the room is still, then the lamp will help heat
the stratified top layer, thus pushing the effects of your other heaters
down lower. If there are decent convection currents running in the room,
then the hot air will circulate.

--
Cheers,

John.

/================================================== ===============\
| Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk |
|-----------------------------------------------------------------|
| John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk |
\================================================= ================/

On 18/10/2011 12:40, Davey wrote:
On 18 Oct 2011 10:12:56 GMT
wrote:

On 2011-10-18, wrote:
On 18 Oct 2011 09:10:20 GMT
wrote:

Neil wrote:

Quote:
"Ah, but what you do is replace 2 of the
batteries in a 5-cell with a stack of coins (2p's in the UK, no idea
what the merkins use) to make the flashlight a better cosh. Or so
I'm told."

And wait for it to melt in your hand?

Why would it melt?


I have always felt that putting coins inside a torch would be akin to
carrying a fully charged battery in a pocket full of coins, ie asking
for a short right where you don't want it.

I expect the idea is that you chose a coin of similar diameter to the
battery you are replacing. So a stack of them is no more able to move
about than the batteries are likely to change order.

--
Cheers,

John.

/================================================== ===============\
| Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk |
|-----------------------------------------------------------------|
| John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk |
\================================================= ================/

John Rumm wrote:
On 18/10/2011 12:40, Davey wrote:
On 18 Oct 2011 10:12:56 GMT
wrote:

On 2011-10-18, wrote:
On 18 Oct 2011 09:10:20 GMT
wrote:

Neil wrote:

Quote:
"Ah, but what you do is replace 2 of the
batteries in a 5-cell with a stack of coins (2p's in the UK, no
idea what the merkins use) to make the flashlight a better cosh.
Or so I'm told."

And wait for it to melt in your hand?

Why would it melt?


I have always felt that putting coins inside a torch would be akin to
carrying a fully charged battery in a pocket full of coins, ie asking
for a short right where you don't want it.

I expect the idea is that you chose a coin of similar diameter to the
battery you are replacing. So a stack of them is no more able to move
about than the batteries are likely to change order.

You would need to wrap them (the sides, not the ends) in insulation so that
they couldn't touch the case if it was metal or unlined with an insulator.
Otherwise they would short the batteries to earth.

Tim

On 18/10/2011 09:55, Neil Williams wrote:
On Oct 15, 2:01 pm, wrote:

Now I have seen in my local Tescos that there are Philips LED GU10 lamps
that are 4 watts each and are compatible with dimmers.

I have two of those in my hallway. Tried them in the lounge out of
interest, and they are not as bright as 50W halogens, so be careful.

If they're not warm white, don't bother, either. LED light is
otherwise very blue.

White LEDs on their own are quite blue, however many of those designed
for interior lighting are actually combination LED/Fluorescent and give
a warmer (if CFL like) light.


--
Cheers,

John.

/================================================== ===============\
| Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk |
|-----------------------------------------------------------------|
| John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk |
\================================================= ================/

On Oct 18, 2:28*pm, John Rumm wrote:

White LEDs on their own are quite blue, however many of those designed
for interior lighting are actually combination LED/Fluorescent and give
a warmer (if CFL like) light.

Yep, the ones I have are like that and produce a light not completely
dissimilar to a halogen GU10, though with a very slight[1] flicker and
blue tinge.

[1] I am extremely sensitive to flicker - the days of 50 and 60Hz CRT
monitors were horrible and interlace was unusable - but I can *only
just* notice it on these.

Neil

On Oct 18, 2:26*pm, "Tim Downie" wrote:

You would need to wrap them (the sides, not the ends) in insulation so that
they couldn't touch the case if it was metal or unlined with an insulator..
Otherwise they would short the batteries to earth.

Which as long as you put them at the negative end of the bottom
battery is fine. Most traditional metal torches that I've seen ground
the negative end of the bottom-most battery to the case - why provide
an extra wire when the case can do the job?

(For avoidance of doubt I do not own a "large" Maglite and would not
be looking to turn one into a cosh even if I did).

Neil

On Saturday, October 15, 2011 2:05:50 PM UTC+1, Andrew Gabriel wrote:
In article ,
Jim S writes:
What, exactly, is the situation regarding the phasing out of tungsten
lightbulbs?
All my main room lights are on dimmer switches so do I fill my spare
bedroom with bulbs for the future?

Across the extended family, we have two rooms with dimmers.

1) Central light taking 5 x SES 25W candles.

There's an 18W halogen replacement, and I tried one.
It was very noticably dimmer than the 25W candles, so I went
to the next size up, 28W halogen. That's fine, so they've now
all been replaced with 28W halogens. So far, none of the
halogen replacements have died, and the increase in light
output has been welcomed.

2) Central light with 3 x BC 60W cables plus 2 x 60W wall lights.

In this case, I wanted to reduce power consumption, mindful of
the 300W of lighting, but the fittings/shades were very much
wanted, and so I had to think of some way which retained them.
I decided to convert them all to 12V halogens.

I made up five adaptors to convert BC to GY6.35 (bi-pin), so I
could retrofit 12V capsule lamps, being careful to make them so
filament position was the same as with the 60W candles.
http://www.cucumber.demon.co.uk/lights/adapter.jpg
I bought 35W 12V halogen capsules to replace the 60W mains lamps.

How did you connect up the leads to the old GLS bulb base (assuming that is what it is ?).
Would the insurance be OK in a fire if they found those ?
Simon.

Tim Streater wrote:
In article ,
"Tim Downie" wrote:

John Rumm wrote:
On 18/10/2011 12:40, Davey wrote:
On 18 Oct 2011 10:12:56 GMT
wrote:

On 2011-10-18, wrote:
On 18 Oct 2011 09:10:20 GMT
wrote:

Neil wrote:

Quote:
"Ah, but what you do is replace 2 of the
batteries in a 5-cell with a stack of coins (2p's in the UK, no
idea what the merkins use) to make the flashlight a better cosh.
Or so I'm told."

And wait for it to melt in your hand?

Why would it melt?

I have always felt that putting coins inside a torch would be akin
to carrying a fully charged battery in a pocket full of coins, ie
asking for a short right where you don't want it.

I expect the idea is that you chose a coin of similar diameter to
the battery you are replacing. So a stack of them is no more able
to move about than the batteries are likely to change order.

You would need to wrap them (the sides, not the ends) in insulation
so that they couldn't touch the case if it was metal or unlined with
an insulator. Otherwise they would short the batteries to earth.

You sure? Doesn't the end of the battery furthest from the blub earth
to the case of the torch? In which case it wouldn't matter if the
coins did touch the case as long as you put them at the end away from
the bulb. Although I suppose if you wanted to use it as a cosh you'd
want all the weight at the front.

I was assuming that they were inserted near the bulb end but as you say, if
you're just replacing the "lowest" battery, then it wouldn't be a problem.

Tim

On 18/10/11 14:51, Neil Williams wrote:
On Oct 18, 2:26 pm, "Tim Downie" wrote:

You would need to wrap them (the sides, not the ends) in insulation so that
they couldn't touch the case if it was metal or unlined with an insulator.
Otherwise they would short the batteries to earth.

Which as long as you put them at the negative end of the bottom
battery is fine. Most traditional metal torches that I've seen ground
the negative end of the bottom-most battery to the case - why provide
an extra wire when the case can do the job?


But that would mean putting the added heft at the wrong end of th torch?



(For avoidance of doubt I do not own a "large" Maglite and would not
be looking to turn one into a cosh even if I did).

Neil


--
djc

On 18/10/11 11:53, Alan Braggins wrote:
In article , Neil Williams wrote:

Given that 2 or 3D is bright enough for most purposes, I have always
assumed that the only reason security guards carry them is so they can
use them as weapons without having to worry about getting into trouble
for carrying them.

See also
http://www.niton999.co.uk/shop/produ...ode_AA319.html
http://www.amazon.com/Black-Maglite-.../dp/B001D4CTII
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Baton_%...e-handle_baton

and most relevant
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Baton_%...29#Flashlights


--
djc

"Neil Williams" wrote in message
...


(For avoidance of doubt I do not own a "large" Maglite and would not
be looking to turn one into a cosh even if I did).

I have a four D cell one.
You don't need to modify it to be a cosh.

It hardly ever gets used since I bought a £4 LED torch from Lidl.
The Lidl one is much brighter and the three AA cells last for ages.

"djc" wrote in message
...
On 18/10/11 14:51, Neil Williams wrote:
On Oct 18, 2:26 pm, "Tim Downie" wrote:

You would need to wrap them (the sides, not the ends) in insulation so
that
they couldn't touch the case if it was metal or unlined with an
insulator.
Otherwise they would short the batteries to earth.

Which as long as you put them at the negative end of the bottom
battery is fine. Most traditional metal torches that I've seen ground
the negative end of the bottom-most battery to the case - why provide
an extra wire when the case can do the job?


But that would mean putting the added heft at the wrong end of th torch?

You wouldn't hit them with the front of the torch.
You want it to continue working so you can find them to hit them again.

In article ,
Man at B&Q wrote:

You may already be too late, or you could be lucky and get some very
cheap in the 99p Shop or the clearance sections of other shops.

Or Asda, or Morrisons, or Tesco, or... They are still widely
available, just not in 100W versions.


Found some excellent energy saving bulbs up our local elcheapo store the
other day. Almost as good as the old ones - bright, decent light, dimmable.

http://twitter.com/#!/dmchapman/stat...623808/photo/1

Darren

D.M.Chapman wrote:
In article ,
Man at B&Q wrote:
You may already be too late, or you could be lucky and get some very
cheap in the 99p Shop or the clearance sections of other shops.

Or Asda, or Morrisons, or Tesco, or... They are still widely
available, just not in 100W versions.


Found some excellent energy saving bulbs up our local elcheapo store the
other day. Almost as good as the old ones - bright, decent light, dimmable.

http://twitter.com/#!/dmchapman/stat...623808/photo/1

What an annoying link. It wants me to sign in to/ up for Twitter before
it will show me the picture.

--
Tciao for Now!

John.