I'm completely flabbergasted at the price being asked for sheds that
seem to me to be made out of match wood.

Is there a good book that shows clearly how to build a simple wooden
shed out of 2x2 timber and wooden tongue and groove cladding?

Would one of those "sliding" rotary saws be a good tool to cut the
timber? I'm looking for an excuse to buy one

Where could I buy simple fixed windows to fit into said structure? I'm
only interested in getting a little light into the gloom, not
fantastic ventilation.


Ta,

Clive

Clive pretended :
I'm completely flabbergasted at the price being asked for sheds that
seem to me to be made out of match wood.

Is there a good book that shows clearly how to build a simple wooden
shed out of 2x2 timber and wooden tongue and groove cladding?

Why should you need one?

Just go along to a showroom and look at how their huts are constructed,
make a few notes, take a few digi photos. Then decide what layout you
need and get on with it.


Would one of those "sliding" rotary saws be a good tool to cut the
timber?

Yes.
I'm looking for an excuse to buy one

Where could I buy simple fixed windows to fit into said structure? I'm
only interested in getting a little light into the gloom, not
fantastic ventilation.

You do not need to buy a window, just the glass. Just make a frame out
of 2x2 then add some 1/2 x 1/2 fixed along the inside of the 2x2 frame
to sit the glass against. More 1/2x 1/2 to retain the glass on the
outside.

--
Regards,
Harry (M1BYT) (L)
http://www.ukradioamateur.co.uk

On 21 Mar, 13:15, Clive wrote:
I'm completely flabbergasted at the price being asked for sheds that
seem to me to be made out of match wood.

Is there a good book that shows clearly how to build a simple wooden
shed out of 2x2 timber and wooden tongue and groove cladding?

Would one of those "sliding" rotary saws be a good tool to cut the
timber? I'm looking for an excuse to buy one

Where could I buy simple fixed windows to fit into said structure? I'm
only interested in getting a little light into the gloom, not
fantastic ventilation.

Ta,

Clive

http://www.popularmechanics.com/home...36.html?page=1

Covers some of the bases.

Adam

Hi Clive

On Fri, 21 Mar 2008 06:15:11 -0700 (PDT), Clive
wrote:

I'm completely flabbergasted at the price being asked for sheds that
seem to me to be made out of match wood.

People are (seem) prepared to pay for the convenience of a 'pack-flat'
shed...


Is there a good book that shows clearly how to build a simple wooden
shed out of 2x2 timber and wooden tongue and groove cladding?

It's not all that difficult.
I've had some success in the past building garages & workshops like
this.... it's probably overkill - but it worked for me...

Use thin plywood (6mm) for starters. Needn't be anything fancy -
shuttering ply if you can get it or OSB... whatever's cheapest.

Cut one sheet of ply for each side and each end of the shed.
Also cut suitable pieces for the roof (either /\ or single slope.

Fix a framework of 2x2" (or maybe 2x3" for a larger structure) to the
plywood - battery drill-driver and a box of Screwfix turbo-screws. Bit
of gripfill if you really want a de-luxe job.

Arrange a base. Timber (say 3/4" shuttering ply or better - sit it on
treated fenceposts, levelled on sand and paving slabs. Lay a concrete
base if you want to make life difficult g.

Start assembling the sides - use long screws to fix the 2x2 pieces to
each other, rather than relying on the plywood to take secure fixings.

Fix the roof to the sides.

Now obtain some 'building paper' (friendly local roofers ?) - and
staple it to the outside of the plywood. Then clad the outside of the
shed with whatever timber finish you require - tongue & groove, waney
edge etc. Needn't be anything very thick - it's strong anough already.

Cover roof with Onduline - fixed to the plywood, after using more
building paper to cover the ply.

As I say - probably well over-the-top - but the ply sheets ensure that
everything starts out flat and square - and makes for a draught-proof
shed - also a very strong construction.


Would one of those "sliding" rotary saws be a good tool to cut the
timber? I'm looking for an excuse to buy one

Yes - ideal too for making sure that the 2"x2" timber has nice square
ends - likewise any timber cladding that you use.


Where could I buy simple fixed windows to fit into said structure? I'm
only interested in getting a little light into the gloom, not
fantastic ventilation.

If you use Onduline on the roof then there's matching translucent
roofing in the same profile (let light in through the roof & then you
can have shelves all round the walls g)

Alternatively - sheets of thinnish plastic / perspex etc - simply cut
to fit in-between the 2x2's and use thinner timber (say 1" x 1/2") to
frame round them.

Hope this helps
Adrian

Adrian brought next idea :
Arrange a base. Timber (say 3/4" shuttering ply or better - sit it on
treated fenceposts, levelled on sand and paving slabs. Lay a concrete
base if you want to make life difficult g.

I'll just add to that with...

What ever you use for a base, make sure there is some waterproof
surface between the ground and any wood to prevent moisture rising up
into the wood. The wider the air space under the floor, the better it
dries out and the longer it will normally last.

--
Regards,
Harry (M1BYT) (L)
http://www.ukradioamateur.co.uk

"Clive" wrote in message
...
I'm completely flabbergasted at the price being asked for sheds that
seem to me to be made out of match wood.

Is there a good book that shows clearly how to build a simple wooden
shed out of 2x2 timber and wooden tongue and groove cladding?

Would one of those "sliding" rotary saws be a good tool to cut the
timber? I'm looking for an excuse to buy one

Where could I buy simple fixed windows to fit into said structure? I'm
only interested in getting a little light into the gloom, not
fantastic ventilation.


Ta,

Clive



http://www.popularmechanics.com/home...t/1276536.html

http://www.buildeazy.com/shed_1.html

http://www.freeww.com/storagebuildings.html

Would one of those "sliding" rotary saws be a good tool to cut the
timber? I'm looking for an excuse to buy one



Despite what the others have said, I cannot see the point of the
'sliding' chop saw in this case - just adds to the price, weight and
complexity of the tool, when all you want is a basic chop saw costing
£30 from Lidls, Aldis, Ebay, etc. All you need is a the most basic in
the range just to quickly cut your framing timbers at something
reasonably approaching a right angle.

I'm talking from the experience of having built two wooden sheds of
quite reasonable size. I'm also a bit doubtful about the need for the
building paper and this cladding with ply and then weatherboard - I
can see the point about the ply keeping everything square but that
seems OTT to me and just adding to the cost and complexity. Your
choice... and the paper thing does depend a bit if you are using the
shed for just storage or if you are going to live in it !

Rob

Harry Bloomfield wrote:
Clive pretended :
I'm completely flabbergasted at the price being asked for sheds that
seem to me to be made out of match wood.

Is there a good book that shows clearly how to build a simple wooden
shed out of 2x2 timber and wooden tongue and groove cladding?

Why should you need one?

Just go along to a showroom and look at how their huts are
constructed, make a few notes, take a few digi photos. Then decide
what layout you need and get on with it.

Absolutely. Think of a shed as four wall panels & a roof - all you need to
take note of is how the corners are attached to each other.


Would one of those "sliding" rotary saws be a good tool to cut the
timber?

Yes.
I'm looking for an excuse to buy one

A fixed chop saw of decent make will be a lot better than a cheap sliding
one.

Where could I buy simple fixed windows to fit into said structure?
I'm only interested in getting a little light into the gloom, not
fantastic ventilation.

You do not need to buy a window, just the glass. Just make a frame out
of 2x2 then add some 1/2 x 1/2 fixed along the inside of the 2x2 frame
to sit the glass against. More 1/2x 1/2 to retain the glass on the
outside.

You've done this before Harry :-)+


--
Dave - The Medway Handyman
www.medwayhandyman.co.uk
01634 717930
07850 597257

"robgraham" wrote in message
...


Would one of those "sliding" rotary saws be a good tool to cut the
timber? I'm looking for an excuse to buy one



Despite what the others have said, I cannot see the point of the
'sliding' chop saw in this case - just adds to the price, weight and
complexity of the tool, when all you want is a basic chop saw costing
£30 from Lidls, Aldis, Ebay, etc. All you need is a the most basic in
the range just to quickly cut your framing timbers at something
reasonably approaching a right angle.

I'm talking from the experience of having built two wooden sheds of
quite reasonable size. I'm also a bit doubtful about the need for the
building paper and this cladding with ply and then weatherboard - I
can see the point about the ply keeping everything square but that
seems OTT to me and just adding to the cost and complexity. Your
choice... and the paper thing does depend a bit if you are using the
shed for just storage or if you are going to live in it !

Rob

False economy is the point ie you might not think that you will ever need a
sliding compound mitre saw but those who have bought a basic chop saw in the
past will probably tell you now they wish they had bought the sliding mitre
saw because it gave more flexability,depth and wideness of cut over the
stationary fixed height and width chop saw.

George wrote:
"robgraham" wrote in message
...


Would one of those "sliding" rotary saws be a good tool to cut the
timber? I'm looking for an excuse to buy one



Despite what the others have said, I cannot see the point of the
'sliding' chop saw in this case - just adds to the price, weight and
complexity of the tool, when all you want is a basic chop saw costing
£30 from Lidls, Aldis, Ebay, etc. All you need is a the most basic in
the range just to quickly cut your framing timbers at something
reasonably approaching a right angle.

I'm talking from the experience of having built two wooden sheds of
quite reasonable size. I'm also a bit doubtful about the need for the
building paper and this cladding with ply and then weatherboard - I
can see the point about the ply keeping everything square but that
seems OTT to me and just adding to the cost and complexity. Your
choice... and the paper thing does depend a bit if you are using the
shed for just storage or if you are going to live in it !

Rob

False economy is the point ie you might not think that you will ever
need a sliding compound mitre saw but those who have bought a basic
chop saw in the past will probably tell you now they wish they had
bought the sliding mitre saw because it gave more flexability,depth
and wideness of cut over the stationary fixed height and width chop
saw.

"wideness"? You made that up didn't you :-) I think 'width'.


--
Dave - The Medway Handyman
www.medwayhandyman.co.uk
01634 717930
07850 597257

"Clive" wrote in message
...
I'm completely flabbergasted at the price being asked for sheds that
seem to me to be made out of match wood.

Is there a good book that shows clearly how to build a simple wooden
shed out of 2x2 timber and wooden tongue and groove cladding?

Mine is made of 12 mm ply on the inside with 65x45 framing at 600 mm centers
to keep the ply flat.
Then insulated and clad.
You can buy shuttering ply cheap and it is good for fixing shelves and stuff
to.

Its easy to build too, just overlap the corners and drive some screws into
the frame.

The floor is a structural job.. 18 mm ply glued to 25 mm polystyrene glued
to 12 mm ply all on top of some bearers. I can jump up and down and it
doesn't flex noticeably.

The Medway Handyman brought next idea :
You do not need to buy a window, just the glass. Just make a frame out
of 2x2 then add some 1/2 x 1/2 fixed along the inside of the 2x2 frame
to sit the glass against. More 1/2x 1/2 to retain the glass on the
outside.

You've done this before Harry :-)+

Well, just a couple of times ;o)

The most difficult bit is working out how much wood to buy and finding
a reasonably priced supplier.

--
Regards,
Harry (M1BYT) (L)
http://www.ukradioamateur.co.uk

"Harry Bloomfield" wrote in message
k...
The Medway Handyman brought next idea :
You do not need to buy a window, just the glass. Just make a frame out
of 2x2 then add some 1/2 x 1/2 fixed along the inside of the 2x2 frame
to sit the glass against. More 1/2x 1/2 to retain the glass on the
outside.

You've done this before Harry :-)+

Well, just a couple of times ;o)

The most difficult bit is working out how much wood to buy and finding
a reasonably priced supplier.

--
Regards,
Harry (M1BYT) (L)
http://www.ukradioamateur.co.uk



Thats why we draw up plans to get the right amount.

George submitted this idea :
Thats why we draw up plans to get the right amount.

Back of a fag packet?

--
Regards,
Harry (M1BYT) (L)
http://www.ukradioamateur.co.uk

"Harry Bloomfield" wrote in message
k...
George submitted this idea :
Thats why we draw up plans to get the right amount.

Back of a fag packet?

--
Regards,
Harry (M1BYT) (L)
http://www.ukradioamateur.co.uk



The builder thats knocking round this neck of the woods does that...up to
now 7 people have had the wrong DG units turning up and refused by the
residents.

Yep never trust anyone who's good at writing down stuff on a stamp.

"George" wrote in message
...

"Harry Bloomfield" wrote in message
k...
George submitted this idea :
Thats why we draw up plans to get the right amount.

Back of a fag packet?

--
Regards,
Harry (M1BYT) (L)
http://www.ukradioamateur.co.uk



The builder thats knocking round this neck of the woods does that...up to
now 7 people have had the wrong DG units turning up and refused by the
residents.

Yep never trust anyone who's good at writing down stuff on a stamp.



A lot of the UK telephone network was designed on beer mats. ;-)
I used to be able to split them down the middle to get several sheets out of
one mat when they were in short supply.

On 21 Mar, 13:15, Clive wrote:

Is there a good book that shows clearly how to build a simple wooden
shed out of 2x2 timber and wooden tongue and groove cladding?

2x2 is too skinny, and you want larch from a decent timberyard, not
"construction" whitewood or pressure-treated toxic crap. Bendrey
Brothers if you're around Bristol - my last was costing me £16/cube
foot.

I do like Sobon's books (US-style simple timber framing), but they're
about real "framed" sheds on an 8x8 cube or larger, not a minimal UK
garden hutlet.

Would one of those "sliding" rotary saws be a good tool to cut the
timber? I'm looking for an excuse to buy one

You don't even need the slider for cross-cutting this stuff. If you do
want a slider, make sure that the depth stop allows you to also use it
for cutting halved joints. If you can do that much, they're useful. As
a mere chop saw, personally I can't be bothered as I'll still need
another saw to cut the joints.

Or you can do the lot with a few trestles, G clamps and a decent
handheld circular with adjustable depth. Stanley's nice adjustable
square (heavy aluminium with a swinging bar) makes a good guidebar
for this level of carpentry.

Where could I buy simple fixed windows to fit into said structure?

Recycle. Most of mine are sealed DG units taken from houses or shops
being converted to tiny flats. Can't move for skiploads of things
round my way.

Are you going to have a big sign and carpark?

--
Rod

Hypothyroidism is a seriously debilitating condition with an insidious
onset.
Although common it frequently goes undiagnosed.
www.thyromind.info www.thyroiduk.org www.altsupportthyroid.org

False economy is the point ie you might not think that you will ever need a
sliding compound mitre saw but those who have bought a basic chop saw in the
past will probably tell you now they wish they had bought the sliding mitre
saw because it gave more flexability,depth and wideness of cut over the
stationary fixed height and width chop saw.

No - in the 3 or 4 years that I have had the simple chop saw, I have
had absolutely no need for a sliding one and no desire to find an
excuse to buy one as the OP is looking for. OK no doubt there is use
for the sliding compound mitre but I've never seen any and I have my
suspicions that like all tools, cameras, computers, stereos, etc.
with multiple facilities, the more exotic ones get use about once in
the item's life. Gimmicks IMO.

Rob

"robgraham" wrote in message
...

False economy is the point ie you might not think that you will ever
need a
sliding compound mitre saw but those who have bought a basic chop saw in
the
past will probably tell you now they wish they had bought the sliding
mitre
saw because it gave more flexability,depth and wideness of cut over the
stationary fixed height and width chop saw.

No - in the 3 or 4 years that I have had the simple chop saw, I have
had absolutely no need for a sliding one and no desire to find an
excuse to buy one as the OP is looking for. OK no doubt there is use
for the sliding compound mitre but I've never seen any and I have my
suspicions that like all tools, cameras, computers, stereos, etc.
with multiple facilities, the more exotic ones get use about once in
the item's life. Gimmicks IMO.

Rob


Can you Mitre 6" torus on your chop saw? bearing in mind most of the chop
saws can only manage 5" and then the wood has to be turned over to complete
the cut.

"Clive" wrote in message
...
I'm completely flabbergasted at the price being asked for sheds that
seem to me to be made out of match wood.

Is there a good book that shows clearly how to build a simple wooden
shed out of 2x2 timber and wooden tongue and groove cladding?

Would one of those "sliding" rotary saws be a good tool to cut the
timber? I'm looking for an excuse to buy one

Where could I buy simple fixed windows to fit into said structure? I'm
only interested in getting a little light into the gloom, not
fantastic ventilation.


Ta,

Clive


Dunno how much you're thinking of laying out for the saw? but do think about
a sliding compound mitre saw more than just a plain chop saw.

£65 or lower will get you one of these? thats less than a chop saw in the
sheds.

http://tinyurl.com/2rxr7g

robgraham wrote:
False economy is the point ie you might not think that you will ever
need a sliding compound mitre saw but those who have bought a basic
chop saw in the past will probably tell you now they wish they had
bought the sliding mitre saw because it gave more flexability,depth
and wideness of cut over the stationary fixed height and width chop
saw.

No - in the 3 or 4 years that I have had the simple chop saw, I have
had absolutely no need for a sliding one and no desire to find an
excuse to buy one as the OP is looking for. OK no doubt there is use
for the sliding compound mitre but I've never seen any and I have my
suspicions that like all tools, cameras, computers, stereos, etc.
with multiple facilities, the more exotic ones get use about once in
the item's life. Gimmicks IMO.

Agree/disagree :-)

I carry a little Wickes chop saw in the van for general purpose jobs. I
also have an Axminster sliding compound mitre saw which I bung in the van
for decking jobs (6 x 2 timber) or large skirting board jobs. Little chop
saw copes with 90% of jobs, sliding saw invaluable with larger timber.



--
Dave - The Medway Handyman
www.medwayhandyman.co.uk
01634 717930
07850 597257

robgraham wrote:

False economy is the point ie you might not think that you will ever need a
sliding compound mitre saw but those who have bought a basic chop saw in the
past will probably tell you now they wish they had bought the sliding mitre
saw because it gave more flexability,depth and wideness of cut over the
stationary fixed height and width chop saw.

No - in the 3 or 4 years that I have had the simple chop saw, I have
had absolutely no need for a sliding one and no desire to find an
excuse to buy one as the OP is looking for. OK no doubt there is use
for the sliding compound mitre but I've never seen any and I have my
suspicions that like all tools, cameras, computers, stereos, etc.
with multiple facilities, the more exotic ones get use about once in
the item's life. Gimmicks IMO.

A SCMS is not a gimmick (unless you buy a toy one), but it is designed
to achieve different things.

A basic chop saw is ideal for cutting framing timber quickly and square,
and even a small basic one will be invaluable building a shed. A good
chop saw will give better results than a mediocre SCMS.

However you would not use a chop saw to mitre a 12" window board, or use
it to accurately dimension wider stock for a furniture building project.
It is also unlikely to have the capacity to mitre the larger cornice and
pelmet mouldings.

--
Cheers,

John.

/================================================== ===============\
| Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk |
|-----------------------------------------------------------------|
| John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk |
\================================================= ================/

Harry Bloomfield wrote:
The Medway Handyman brought next idea :
You do not need to buy a window, just the glass. Just make a frame
out of 2x2 then add some 1/2 x 1/2 fixed along the inside of the
2x2 frame to sit the glass against. More 1/2x 1/2 to retain the
glass on the outside.

You've done this before Harry :-)+

Well, just a couple of times ;o)

The most difficult bit is working out how much wood to buy and finding
a reasonably priced supplier.

I used to have that problem with doing estimates for decking. Spent a
little time mucking about with Excel & now I have a spreadsheet that does it
for me. I just enter the overall dimensions, direction of boards & joist
spacing & it works out the joist run, board run & number of screws required.
Since done another one for laminate flooring quotes. Works out number of
packs, length of edge strip etc.


--
Dave - The Medway Handyman
www.medwayhandyman.co.uk
01634 717930
07850 597257

"Clive" wrote in message
...
I'm completely flabbergasted at the price being asked for sheds that
seem to me to be made out of match wood.

Is there a good book that shows clearly how to build a simple wooden
shed out of 2x2 timber and wooden tongue and groove cladding?

Would one of those "sliding" rotary saws be a good tool to cut the
timber? I'm looking for an excuse to buy one

Where could I buy simple fixed windows to fit into said structure? I'm
only interested in getting a little light into the gloom, not
fantastic ventilation.


Ta,

Clive

My last 'shed' building project was a play house to keep the kids out of the
way. I think I may have over-engineered it slightly...

http://www.freewebs.com/fortmiddlewood/

I only have a fixed chop saw but that was invaluable in increasing the speed
of construction. Besdies that the most useful tools were the Makita
drill/driver and impact driver - took a lot of the effort out :-)

Cheers

Mark

Mark Spice wrote:
"Clive" wrote in message
...
I'm completely flabbergasted at the price being asked for sheds that
seem to me to be made out of match wood.

Is there a good book that shows clearly how to build a simple wooden
shed out of 2x2 timber and wooden tongue and groove cladding?

Would one of those "sliding" rotary saws be a good tool to cut the
timber? I'm looking for an excuse to buy one

Where could I buy simple fixed windows to fit into said structure?
I'm only interested in getting a little light into the gloom, not
fantastic ventilation.


Ta,

Clive

My last 'shed' building project was a play house to keep the kids out
of the way. I think I may have over-engineered it slightly...

http://www.freewebs.com/fortmiddlewood/

I only have a fixed chop saw but that was invaluable in increasing
the speed of construction. Besdies that the most useful tools were
the Makita drill/driver and impact driver - took a lot of the effort
out :-)

Brilliant Mark - what a Dad!

I'm building something similar for my granddaughter, but I'm not sure I have
the sizes & proportions right.

Could you post the dimensions please? W x D, H of platform & H overall?

Cheers


--
Dave - The Medway Handyman
www.medwayhandyman.co.uk
01634 717930
07850 597257

"The Medway Handyman" wrote in message
m...
Mark Spice wrote:
"Clive" wrote in message

...
I'm completely flabbergasted at the price being asked for sheds that
seem to me to be made out of match wood.

Is there a good book that shows clearly how to build a simple wooden
shed out of 2x2 timber and wooden tongue and groove cladding?

Would one of those "sliding" rotary saws be a good tool to cut the
timber? I'm looking for an excuse to buy one

Where could I buy simple fixed windows to fit into said structure?
I'm only interested in getting a little light into the gloom, not
fantastic ventilation.


Ta,

Clive

My last 'shed' building project was a play house to keep the kids out
of the way. I think I may have over-engineered it slightly...

http://www.freewebs.com/fortmiddlewood/

I only have a fixed chop saw but that was invaluable in increasing
the speed of construction. Besdies that the most useful tools were
the Makita drill/driver and impact driver - took a lot of the effort
out :-)

Brilliant Mark - what a Dad!

I'm building something similar for my granddaughter, but I'm not sure I
have
the sizes & proportions right.

Could you post the dimensions please? W x D, H of platform & H overall?

Cheers


--
Dave - The Medway Handyman
www.medwayhandyman.co.uk
01634 717930
07850 597257



The base is about 8ft square. The platform is at 4 foot of the ground and
the whole thing is 9 ft high at the front sloping down to 8 ft at the back.
Luckily our neighbours are very understanding and don't seem too bothered at
living next door to a watchtower - but I didn't put any windows at the back
just to preserve the neighbours privacy.

Hope this helps

Mark

Mark Spice wrote:

My last 'shed' building project was a play house to keep the kids out of the
way. I think I may have over-engineered it slightly...

http://www.freewebs.com/fortmiddlewood/

Fantastic!

Pete

Mark Spice wrote:


My last 'shed' building project was a play house to keep the kids
out of the way. I think I may have over-engineered it slightly...

http://www.freewebs.com/fortmiddlewood/

I only have a fixed chop saw but that was invaluable in increasing
the speed of construction. Besdies that the most useful tools were
the Makita drill/driver and impact driver - took a lot of the effort
out :-)

Brilliant Mark - what a Dad!

I'm building something similar for my granddaughter, but I'm not
sure I have the sizes & proportions right.

Could you post the dimensions please? W x D, H of platform & H
overall?



The base is about 8ft square. The platform is at 4 foot of the
ground and the whole thing is 9 ft high at the front sloping down to
8 ft at the back. Luckily our neighbours are very understanding and
don't seem too bothered at living next door to a watchtower - but I
didn't put any windows at the back just to preserve the neighbours
privacy.

Here is the framework for my effort, inclement weather & excessive
handymanning have delayed things.
http://i99.photobucket.com/albums/l2.../playhouse.jpg

Its around 1200mm x 1200mm at the base.

I reckon the top 'half' is too tall, so I'm planning to trim it down a bit.
Can't now reduce the bottom 'half' easily since I glued & screwed it :-(


--
Dave - The Medway Handyman
www.medwayhandyman.co.uk
01634 717930
07850 597257

On Fri, 21 Mar 2008 19:32:45 -0000, "dennis@home"
wrote:

A lot of the UK telephone network was designed on beer mats. ;-)
I used to be able to split them down the middle to get several sheets out of
one mat when they were in short supply.

We had a framed table knapkin in the office with the circuit diagram (schematic)
of a printed circuit board we had to design.

Geo

"dennis@home" wrote in message



The builder thats knocking round this neck of the woods does that...up
to
now 7 people have had the wrong DG units turning up and refused by the
residents.

Yep never trust anyone who's good at writing down stuff on a stamp.



A lot of the UK telephone network was designed on beer mats. ;-)
I used to be able to split them down the middle to get several sheets out
of
one mat when they were in short supply.


The Ten Commandments were carved out on a tablet of stone....look what
happend there!

"The Medway Handyman" wrote in message


Here is the framework for my effort, inclement weather & excessive
handymanning have delayed things.
http://i99.photobucket.com/albums/l2.../playhouse.jpg


Sun is shining and you're prattling on here,so whats stopping you now?

Its around 1200mm x 1200mm at the base.

I reckon the top 'half' is too tall, so I'm planning to trim it down a
bit.
Can't now reduce the bottom 'half' easily since I glued & screwed it :-(


I do hope its secured into the ground? don't want little medway handy people
flying about the garden in heavy gales.

--
Dave - The Medway Handyman
www.medwayhandyman.co.uk
01634 717930
07850 597257

George wrote:
"The Medway Handyman" wrote in
message


Here is the framework for my effort, inclement weather & excessive
handymanning have delayed things.
http://i99.photobucket.com/albums/l2.../playhouse.jpg


Sun is shining and you're prattling on here,so whats stopping you now?

It isn't bloody well shining here mate - its snowing! I'm waiting for a
break in the weather to go & look at the fence panels that came down last
week.

Its around 1200mm x 1200mm at the base.

I reckon the top 'half' is too tall, so I'm planning to trim it down
a bit. Can't now reduce the bottom 'half' easily since I glued &
screwed it :-(


I do hope its secured into the ground? don't want little medway handy
people flying about the garden in heavy gales.

It isn't yet, but it will be. It survived lasts Mondays gales without
moving though. Claddings not on yet of course.


--
Dave - The Medway Handyman
www.medwayhandyman.co.uk
01634 717930
07850 597257

"The Medway Handyman" wrote in message
m...
George wrote:
"The Medway Handyman" wrote in
message


Here is the framework for my effort, inclement weather & excessive
handymanning have delayed things.
http://i99.photobucket.com/albums/l2.../playhouse.jpg


Sun is shining and you're prattling on here,so whats stopping you now?

It isn't bloody well shining here mate - its snowing! I'm waiting for a
break in the weather to go & look at the fence panels that came down last
week.

Its around 1200mm x 1200mm at the base.

I reckon the top 'half' is too tall, so I'm planning to trim it down
a bit. Can't now reduce the bottom 'half' easily since I glued &
screwed it :-(


I do hope its secured into the ground? don't want little medway handy
people flying about the garden in heavy gales.

It isn't yet, but it will be. It survived lasts Mondays gales without
moving though. Claddings not on yet of course.


--
Dave - The Medway Handyman
www.medwayhandyman.co.uk
01634 717930
07850 597257



Tis a good job Noah didn't have that attitude...otherwise we'd have been all
washed up.

Harry Bloomfield wrote:
George submitted this idea :
Thats why we draw up plans to get the right amount.

Back of a fag packet?

CorelDraw ;-)

John Rumm wrote:
robgraham wrote:

False economy is the point ie you might not think that you will ever
need a
sliding compound mitre saw but those who have bought a basic chop saw
in the
past will probably tell you now they wish they had bought the sliding
mitre
saw because it gave more flexability,depth and wideness of cut over the
stationary fixed height and width chop saw.

No - in the 3 or 4 years that I have had the simple chop saw, I have
had absolutely no need for a sliding one and no desire to find an
excuse to buy one as the OP is looking for. OK no doubt there is use
for the sliding compound mitre but I've never seen any and I have my
suspicions that like all tools, cameras, computers, stereos, etc.
with multiple facilities, the more exotic ones get use about once in
the item's life. Gimmicks IMO.

A SCMS is not a gimmick (unless you buy a toy one), but it is designed
to achieve different things.

A basic chop saw is ideal for cutting framing timber quickly and square,
and even a small basic one will be invaluable building a shed. A good
chop saw will give better results than a mediocre SCMS.

However you would not use a chop saw to mitre a 12" window board, or use
it to accurately dimension wider stock for a furniture building project.
It is also unlikely to have the capacity to mitre the larger cornice and
pelmet mouldings.

Do it by hand and get some ruddy exercise.

Good grief. One cheap cross cut saw is all you need.

"The Natural Philosopher" wrote in message


Do it by hand and get some ruddy exercise.

Good grief. One cheap cross cut saw is all you need.


Hahahaha Hahahaha, I like people like you...given the opertunity of the loan
of a sliding mitre saw and they'll jump at the chance to do the job with it.

George says...

"The Natural Philosopher" wrote in message


Do it by hand and get some ruddy exercise.

Good grief. One cheap cross cut saw is all you need.


Hahahaha Hahahaha, I like people like you...given the opertunity of the loan
of a sliding mitre saw and they'll jump at the chance to do the job with it.




Funny you should say that. I've got a decent sliding mitre
saw, but sometimes it is just too much damn trouble to use
it, so I use the cross cut saw instead. Lately I've been
cutting some 5 metre lengths of 3 x 2" and it is quicker to
cut it by hand than keep manouvering the saw and wood into
position each time. Swinging 5 metre lengths of timbers
around in a room only slightly bigger is a tad awkward to
say the least.

Soon I've got a lot of 5 metre lengths of 6 x 2" to cut to
size but it will be a toss up whether to use the hand saw
or power saw. I don't know which will be the lesser of the
two evils - the manual sawing or trying to balance and use
the sliding mitre saw in an awkward place (balanced between
ceiling joists).
--
David in Normandy.
To e-mail you must include the password FROG on the
subject line, or it will be automatically deleted
by a filter and not reach my inbox.

"David in Normandy" wrote in message


Funny you should say that. I've got a decent sliding mitre
saw, but sometimes it is just too much damn trouble to use
it, so I use the cross cut saw instead. Lately I've been
cutting some 5 metre lengths of 3 x 2" and it is quicker to
cut it by hand than keep manouvering the saw and wood into
position each time. Swinging 5 metre lengths of timbers
around in a room only slightly bigger is a tad awkward to
say the least.

Soon I've got a lot of 5 metre lengths of 6 x 2" to cut to
size but it will be a toss up whether to use the hand saw
or power saw. I don't know which will be the lesser of the
two evils - the manual sawing or trying to balance and use
the sliding mitre saw in an awkward place (balanced between
ceiling joists).
--
David in Normandy.
To e-mail you must include the password FROG on the
subject line, or it will be automatically deleted
by a filter and not reach my inbox.

If you find its a lot of trouble using it why did you buy it?

Tell me how and what do you use to saw the wood on if you dont use the mitre
saw?

George says...
If you find its a lot of trouble using it why did you buy it?

Tell me how and what do you use to saw the wood on if you dont use the mitre
saw?




With a hand saw I can take the saw to the timber.
With a chop say I have to take the timber to the saw.

I use the chop saw on shorter lengths of timber when I've
got a lot to do. It's great for that. It's just too awkward
to use with long timber in a confined space and lots of
obstacles.

Horses for courses as they say.
--
David in Normandy.
To e-mail you must include the password FROG on the
subject line, or it will be automatically deleted
by a filter and not reach my inbox.