Well, not so much a shed, more a home from home! The walls will be
studwork, with OSB on the outside, followed by paper & shiplap, filled
with Kingspan / Celotex, then plasterboarded on the inside. Floor is to
be concrete, insulated, then screeded. I'm fine with the planning once I
start on the timber, but would like to seeke some opinions for the floor
and base...

My plan is to lay a 6" concrete raft, with a membrane underneath,
followed by a blockwork wall (one course). Inside will be the
insulation, finally screeded over by 70mm or so. For the insulation, I
have been looking at using Jabolite, but was wondering whether I would
get acceptable results using large sheets of polystyrene. My in-laws get
several 8x4 sheets of this a week in their business, which would save a
bit on this stage. However, I'm not convinced that it would stand the
load, without giving, and subsequently causing problems with the screed.
Any ideas folks? The shed is only going to be used as a radio /
electronics play area, with a small office setup, so no heavy equipment.

Secondly, ideas for heating. I've considered using electric underfloor
heating, with a tiled floor, but not sure how good this will be as a
primary source of heat. Another option is a small air conditioning unit
(handy in summer & winter!). Whatever I go for, it has to be electric
based, as the shed is a bit far down the garden to run a zone from the
central heating system in the house!

Any suggestions gratefully received...


Gary

"Gary Cavie" wrote in message
t...
Well, not so much a shed, more a home from home! The walls will be
studwork, with OSB on the outside, followed by paper & shiplap, filled
with Kingspan / Celotex, then plasterboarded on the inside. Floor is to
be concrete, insulated, then screeded. I'm fine with the planning once I
start on the timber, but would like to seeke some opinions for the floor
and base...

Several new houses I've come across have a concrete floor, a plastic
memebrane, sheets of 1" (or so) polystyrene, then 18mm t&g chipboard. If
it stands the "load" in a house, I'd expect it to be OK in a radio shack,
even with a few AR88s!

--
73
Brian
www.g8osn.org.uk

In article ,
lid says...

"Gary Cavie" wrote in message
t...
Well, not so much a shed, more a home from home! The walls will be
studwork, with OSB on the outside, followed by paper & shiplap, filled
with Kingspan / Celotex, then plasterboarded on the inside. Floor is to
be concrete, insulated, then screeded. I'm fine with the planning once I
start on the timber, but would like to seeke some opinions for the floor
and base...

Several new houses I've come across have a concrete floor, a plastic
memebrane, sheets of 1" (or so) polystyrene, then 18mm t&g chipboard. If
it stands the "load" in a house, I'd expect it to be OK in a radio shack,
even with a few AR88s!

--
73
Brian
www.g8osn.org.uk


It's not the radios that will be the problem - it's the weight of me in
a swivel chair that will give the floor something to think about!

That's what I call a fast response BTW - have you got your modulator
link sorted out yet to the car radio?

Gary Cavie wrote:

insulation, finally screeded over by 70mm or so. For the insulation, I
have been looking at using Jabolite, but was wondering whether I would
get acceptable results using large sheets of polystyrene. My in-laws get
several 8x4 sheets of this a week in their business, which would save a
bit on this stage. However, I'm not convinced that it would stand the
load, without giving, and subsequently causing problems with the screed.
Any ideas folks? The shed is only going to be used as a radio /
electronics play area, with a small office setup, so no heavy equipment.

I think jablite basically *is* large sheets of polystyrene... I actually
used it to insulate the walls of my workshop since it was way cheaper
than I could get celotex or similar for at the time. e.c:

http://www.internode.ltd.uk/workshop/images/poly.jpg

Secondly, ideas for heating. I've considered using electric underfloor
heating, with a tiled floor, but not sure how good this will be as a
primary source of heat. Another option is a small air conditioning unit
(handy in summer & winter!). Whatever I go for, it has to be electric
based, as the shed is a bit far down the garden to run a zone from the
central heating system in the house!

How big is the room space?

My workshop is about 8 x 12 ish and is well insulated (although it has a
uninsulated suspended wood floor over concrete) and is easily heated by
a small wall mounted fan heater that will do upto 2.2kW (but in reality
lives on its 800W setting). Controlled via a separate room stat it will
get the room to a comfortable temp in under 10 mins from "cold" (I never
turn the heating off and leave the stat set to 5 degrees to keep things
dew free).

--
Cheers,

John.

/================================================== ===============\
| Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk |
|-----------------------------------------------------------------|
| John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk |
\================================================= ================/

Gary Cavie wrote:

That's what I call a fast response BTW - have you got your modulator
link sorted out yet to the car radio?

Modulator link to the car radio? Arrgghhh!!! Hey, I expect 'hams' to be
able to rip things apart to apply 'direct injection' AF techniques. Much
better than doing it RF!!!

--
Adrian C

In article ,
says...
Gary Cavie wrote:

insulation, finally screeded over by 70mm or so. For the insulation, I
have been looking at using Jabolite, but was wondering whether I would
get acceptable results using large sheets of polystyrene. My in-laws get
several 8x4 sheets of this a week in their business, which would save a
bit on this stage. However, I'm not convinced that it would stand the
load, without giving, and subsequently causing problems with the screed.
Any ideas folks? The shed is only going to be used as a radio /
electronics play area, with a small office setup, so no heavy equipment.

I think jablite basically *is* large sheets of polystyrene... I actually
used it to insulate the walls of my workshop since it was way cheaper
than I could get celotex or similar for at the time. e.c:

http://www.internode.ltd.uk/workshop/images/poly.jpg

Looks great - I want one of those!
(Those 2 JB's above the CU - they aren't hidden & inaccessible are
they?!)



Secondly, ideas for heating. I've considered using electric underfloor
heating, with a tiled floor, but not sure how good this will be as a
primary source of heat. Another option is a small air conditioning unit
(handy in summer & winter!). Whatever I go for, it has to be electric
based, as the shed is a bit far down the garden to run a zone from the
central heating system in the house!

How big is the room space?

Overall size is 5m x 4m externally, so about 4.5 x 3.5 internally, with
2.2m ceiling. Fan heater may well be an option, or even a kickspace one
beneath one of the units (forgot to mention, it's also going to have a
sink / worktop area!)


My workshop is about 8 x 12 ish and is well insulated (although it has a
uninsulated suspended wood floor over concrete) and is easily heated by
a small wall mounted fan heater that will do upto 2.2kW (but in reality
lives on its 800W setting). Controlled via a separate room stat it will
get the room to a comfortable temp in under 10 mins from "cold" (I never
turn the heating off and leave the stat set to 5 degrees to keep things
dew free).

On Wed, 25 Jan 2006 22:44:41 GMT, "Brian Reay"
wrote:

Several new houses I've come across have a concrete floor, a plastic
memebrane, sheets of 1" (or so) polystyrene, then 18mm t&g chipboard. If
it stands the "load" in a house, I'd expect it to be OK in a radio shack,
even with a few AR88s!

Friend of mine had a murphy B40. Very heavy bit of kit which needed at
least two people to lift:
http://www.portabletubes.co.uk/boats/murphy3.htm

sponix

Gary Cavie wrote:

Looks great - I want one of those!
(Those 2 JB's above the CU - they aren't hidden & inaccessible are
they?!)

You can unscrew the panel should you wish... (although since that would
involve moving the workbench (or more difficult all the cr*p that
resides under/on/near it I would be tempted to take a saw to it should I
need access!)

How big is the room space?


Overall size is 5m x 4m externally, so about 4.5 x 3.5 internally, with
2.2m ceiling. Fan heater may well be an option, or even a kickspace one
beneath one of the units (forgot to mention, it's also going to have a
sink / worktop area!)

I would have thought a few small fanheaters on thermostats would do the
job easily enough and also save having any cold spots that might result
with just one heat source. Perhaps a small oil filled rad might work for
some background heat. You could always do some heatloss calcs for it if
you want to get it "right". (I have always been surprised just how good
the thermal performance of mine has been - especially since I did not
use the best insulation in the first place).


--
Cheers,

John.

/================================================== ===============\
| Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk |
|-----------------------------------------------------------------|
| John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk |
\================================================= ================/

For the insulation, I have been looking at using Jabolite, but was
wondering whether I would get acceptable results using large sheets
of polystyrene.

Jablite actually is just a brand name for polystyrene.

Secondly, ideas for heating. I've considered using electric underfloor
heating, with a tiled floor, but not sure how good this will be as a
primary source of heat.

An infrequently used shed should probably not have underfloor heating.
Underfloor heating is excellent at providing background heat, but hopeless
at heating a room rapidly when needed, which is likely to be the most
efficient method of heating a shed.

I would recommend a thermostatic electric convector heater with selectable
fan assist. This will rapidly bring the shed up to temp when needed, and can
also be used for frost protection.

Christian.

In article , cmcardle75
@nospam.yahooxxxx.co.uk says...
For the insulation, I have been looking at using Jabolite, but was
wondering whether I would get acceptable results using large sheets
of polystyrene.

Jablite actually is just a brand name for polystyrene.

I knew to my untrained eye it looked like polystyrene, but didn;t know
if it was a denser, stronger version. Looks like a few quid saved!


Secondly, ideas for heating. I've considered using electric underfloor
heating, with a tiled floor, but not sure how good this will be as a
primary source of heat.

An infrequently used shed should probably not have underfloor heating.
Underfloor heating is excellent at providing background heat, but hopeless
at heating a room rapidly when needed, which is likely to be the most
efficient method of heating a shed.

I would recommend a thermostatic electric convector heater with selectable
fan assist. This will rapidly bring the shed up to temp when needed, and can
also be used for frost protection.

Christian.




My shed at present is not infrequently used - I spend too much time in
it (2-3 hours per night, and several hours over a weekend!) I think I
will go for the convector / fan approach - I use a 1250W convector in
the current one, which isn't really enough - shed thermally very leaky,
especially when the kids leave the bl**dy door wide open, as they've
just done!!!


Thanks for the advice Christian.

My shed at present is not infrequently used - I spend too much time in
it (2-3 hours per night, and several hours over a weekend!) I think I
will go for the convector / fan approach - I use a 1250W convector in
the current one, which isn't really enough - shed thermally very leaky,
especially when the kids leave the bl**dy door wide open, as they've
just done!!!

With proper insulation and a closed door, a cheap standard 2.2kW electric
fan convector will bring the shed up to temperature in a couple of minutes.

Christian.

We were somewhere around Barstow, on the edge of the desert, when the
drugs began to take hold. I remember (sPoNiX) saying
something like:

Friend of mine had a murphy B40. Very heavy bit of kit which needed at
least two people to lift:

You can lift it yourself if you do it right.

I've got a B62 variant. Lovely bit of kit - made up to a quality rather
than down to a price. A modern professional comms reciever costing many
thousands can just about compete with it for sensitivity.

An old scrap metal man was telling me that in the late 50s/early 60s
thousands of them were released from MoD stores and sold for scrap
value; hardly surprising, there's a lot of ally in them.

http://www.portabletubes.co.uk/boats/murphy3.htm

Ha. I hadn't come across that site before. Many thanks.
--

Dave

"Adrian C" wrote in message
...
Gary Cavie wrote:

That's what I call a fast response BTW - have you got your modulator link
sorted out yet to the car radio?

Modulator link to the car radio? Arrgghhh!!! Hey, I expect 'hams' to be
able to rip things apart to apply 'direct injection' AF techniques. Much
better than doing it RF!!!

Hmm, new car so ripping it apart isn't a good option.

Basic idea is on hold, I'm still trying to find a way to mount the antenna
really neatly so the car will fit in the garage.

__
73
Brian
www.g8osn.org.uk

"Grimly Curmudgeon" wrote in message
...
We were somewhere around Barstow, on the edge of the desert, when the
drugs began to take hold. I remember (sPoNiX) saying
something like:

Friend of mine had a murphy B40. Very heavy bit of kit which needed at
least two people to lift:

You can lift it yourself if you do it right.

I've got a B62 variant. Lovely bit of kit - made up to a quality rather
than down to a price. A modern professional comms reciever costing many
thousands can just about compete with it for sensitivity.

An old scrap metal man was telling me that in the late 50s/early 60s
thousands of them were released from MoD stores and sold for scrap
value; hardly surprising, there's a lot of ally in them.


"When I was a lad", a local army surplus dealer sold the crates that things
like 19 sets were packed in and threw the 19 sets etc away- or sold them for
10 bob (50p), or 5 bob if he needed to shift them!

--
73
Brian
www.g8osn.org.uk

"Gary Cavie" wrote in message
t...


It's not the radios that will be the problem - it's the weight of me in
a swivel chair that will give the floor something to think about!

Well, I knew that but was too polite to say.

That's what I call a fast response BTW - have you got your modulator
link sorted out yet to the car radio?

Still thinking on it. Main problem is the antenna mount- idea was to use a
roof rack but the real Honda one is too high to allow the folded antenna to
clear the garage door, the alternate rack didn't fit very well (I've just
returned it).

I'm thinking on a home made bracket but need to make a cover that will mould
around the fore-aft roof rail cover.

To get back OT for the group, any ideas on a moulding material I can form to
shape then will "set", while remaining resistant to sun, rain, etc.

__
73
Brian
www.g8osn.org.uk

In article ,
lid says...

To get back OT for the group, any ideas on a moulding material I can form to
shape then will "set", while remaining resistant to sun, rain, etc.


Rapid Electronics used to have something in their education catalogue -
aimed at CDT students, to allow them to make models. I can't remember
what the change process was, but it could be moulded, then hardened. If
the model was useless, then it could somehow be reverted back to the
flexible state. It wasn't a complicated process IIRC, which probably
rules it out for car / weather use! I don't have a Rapid catalogue to
hand - hang on a moment...


Back again - scrap that idea, it's called liquid polymorph, and states
that it is liquid at room temperatures, and sets solid at 2 degrees
(sounds almost like water doesn't it?). Unless you plan to only have the
car in freezing conditions (and after visiting you last year, that might
not be so unlikely!!) it probably won't be a lot of use :-(

Gary