There is a cracked set screw in one of m Kwik 200 tool holders. Its a 1/2
inch holder so its one of the most common and cheapest to find used. That
being said there aren't as many used Kwik 200 tool holders to be found on
the most obvious source (Ebay) as their used to be. I hate to pitch a tool
holder I already have over such a cheap part.

Here is the problem. There is a tool in the holder and its well secured. I
want to take the tool out, but even a clean crisp brand new hex key just
pops around like the screw is rounded, but its not. I'd like to save the
tool in the holder other wise I might be tempted to press it out.

On Fri, 17 May 2019 19:43:54 -0700, "Bob La Londe"
wrote:

There is a cracked set screw in one of m Kwik 200 tool holders. It’s a 1/2
inch holder so its one of the most common and cheapest to find used. That
being said there aren't as many used Kwik 200 tool holders to be found on
the most obvious source (Ebay) as their used to be. I hate to pitch a tool
holder I already have over such a cheap part.

Here is the problem. There is a tool in the holder and its well secured. I
want to take the tool out, but even a clean crisp brand new hex key just
pops around like the screw is rounded, but its not. I'd like to save the
tool in the holder other wise I might be tempted to press it out.

Try drilling out the set screw. Often one can drill a hole lengthwise
through a screw/bolt which seems to release some of the tension and
allows the resulting "tube" to be removed easily with an "easyout".

Even fairly hard set screws can be drilled with a high speed drill bit
at low cutting speeds and high feed pressure.
--
cheers,

John B.

On Sat, 18 May 2019 10:23:48 +0700, John B.
wrote:

On Fri, 17 May 2019 19:43:54 -0700, "Bob La Londe"
wrote:

There is a cracked set screw in one of m Kwik 200 tool holders. It’s a 1/2
inch holder so its one of the most common and cheapest to find used. That
being said there aren't as many used Kwik 200 tool holders to be found on
the most obvious source (Ebay) as their used to be. I hate to pitch a tool
holder I already have over such a cheap part.

Here is the problem. There is a tool in the holder and its well secured. I
want to take the tool out, but even a clean crisp brand new hex key just
pops around like the screw is rounded, but its not. I'd like to save the
tool in the holder other wise I might be tempted to press it out.

Try drilling out the set screw. Often one can drill a hole lengthwise
through a screw/bolt which seems to release some of the tension and
allows the resulting "tube" to be removed easily with an "easyout".

Even fairly hard set screws can be drilled with a high speed drill bit
at low cutting speeds and high feed pressure.
Have you tried a left spiral drill bit? I prefer them over so-called
"easy-out" by 1000 to 1.

Bob La Londe wrote:
There is a cracked set screw in one of m Kwik 200 tool holders. It?s a 1/2
inch holder so its one of the most common and cheapest to find used. That
being said there aren't as many used Kwik 200 tool holders to be found on
the most obvious source (Ebay) as their used to be. I hate to pitch a tool
holder I already have over such a cheap part.

Here is the problem. There is a tool in the holder and its well secured. I
want to take the tool out, but even a clean crisp brand new hex key just
pops around like the screw is rounded, but its not. I'd like to save the
tool in the holder other wise I might be tempted to press it out.


If the tool is sticking out by a reasonable amount I wonder if you could
cool it enough to shrink it free(er). First thought was to dunk the
exposed end of the tool in liquid nitrogen while keeping the holder
warm, but that might be overkill. Dry ice in acetone is more readily
available and might be adequate.

You'd probably have to epoxy a wrench in the set screw to back the screw
out once the chill takes effect.

Please post what you try and how it works!

bob prohaska

On Fri, 17 May 2019 23:53:32 -0400, Gerry
wrote:

On Sat, 18 May 2019 10:23:48 +0700, John B.
wrote:

On Fri, 17 May 2019 19:43:54 -0700, "Bob La Londe"
wrote:

There is a cracked set screw in one of m Kwik 200 tool holders. It’s a 1/2
inch holder so its one of the most common and cheapest to find used. That
being said there aren't as many used Kwik 200 tool holders to be found on
the most obvious source (Ebay) as their used to be. I hate to pitch a tool
holder I already have over such a cheap part.

Here is the problem. There is a tool in the holder and its well secured. I
want to take the tool out, but even a clean crisp brand new hex key just
pops around like the screw is rounded, but its not. I'd like to save the
tool in the holder other wise I might be tempted to press it out.

Try drilling out the set screw. Often one can drill a hole lengthwise
through a screw/bolt which seems to release some of the tension and
allows the resulting "tube" to be removed easily with an "easyout".

Even fairly hard set screws can be drilled with a high speed drill bit
at low cutting speeds and high feed pressure.
Have you tried a left spiral drill bit? I prefer them over so-called
"easy-out" by 1000 to 1.

The "easy-outs" I use are a tapered square ground from a high speed
tool bit. We found that the ones with the L.H. (sort of) screw thread
were a bit too much as if you drilled the correct size hole the
easy-out would never slip... it would break instead and getting the
broken easy-out, out of the broken bolt, was even more difficult than
removing the bolt itself :-(

As for L.H. drill bits, I never had access to any but they should work
well. I've seen screws or small bolts get hand loose when a hole was
drilled all the way through. If a L.H. drill bit was used then "Bob's
your Uncle" and it would be out all ready :-)
--
cheers,

John B.

"Bob La Londe" wrote in message
...
There is a cracked set screw in one of m Kwik 200 tool holders. It's
a 1/2 inch holder so its one of the most common and cheapest to find
used. That being said there aren't as many used Kwik 200 tool
holders to be found on the most obvious source (Ebay) as their used
to be. I hate to pitch a tool holder I already have over such a
cheap part.

Here is the problem. There is a tool in the holder and its well
secured. I want to take the tool out, but even a clean crisp brand
new hex key just pops around like the screw is rounded, but its not.
I'd like to save the tool in the holder other wise I might be
tempted to press it out.

Is enough of the screw exposed to cut it off? The ends of dull hacksaw
blades are still sharp and can be ground thinner on a wheel that's
dressed straight, or better on a surface grinder. They also make good
flat springs with a mounting hole.

Try an English hex bit if it's metric, or vice versa.

Perhaps you could grind the end of the next larger size hex bit until
it can be jammed in. Just shorten the modified bit to restore it.

On 5/17/2019 11:23 PM, John B. wrote:
On Fri, 17 May 2019 23:53:32 -0400, Gerry
wrote:

On Sat, 18 May 2019 10:23:48 +0700, John B.
wrote:

On Fri, 17 May 2019 19:43:54 -0700, "Bob La Londe"
wrote:

There is a cracked set screw in one of m Kwik 200 tool holders. Its a 1/2
inch holder so its one of the most common and cheapest to find used. That
being said there aren't as many used Kwik 200 tool holders to be found on
the most obvious source (Ebay) as their used to be. I hate to pitch a tool
holder I already have over such a cheap part.

Here is the problem. There is a tool in the holder and its well secured. I
want to take the tool out, but even a clean crisp brand new hex key just
pops around like the screw is rounded, but its not. I'd like to save the
tool in the holder other wise I might be tempted to press it out.
Try drilling out the set screw. Often one can drill a hole lengthwise
through a screw/bolt which seems to release some of the tension and
allows the resulting "tube" to be removed easily with an "easyout".

Even fairly hard set screws can be drilled with a high speed drill bit
at low cutting speeds and high feed pressure.
Have you tried a left spiral drill bit? I prefer them over so-called
"easy-out" by 1000 to 1.
The "easy-outs" I use are a tapered square ground from a high speed
tool bit. We found that the ones with the L.H. (sort of) screw thread
were a bit too much as if you drilled the correct size hole the
easy-out would never slip... it would break instead and getting the
broken easy-out, out of the broken bolt, was even more difficult than
removing the bolt itself :-(

As for L.H. drill bits, I never had access to any but they should work
well. I've seen screws or small bolts get hand loose when a hole was
drilled all the way through. If a L.H. drill bit was used then "Bob's
your Uncle" and it would be out all ready :-)
--
cheers,

John B.


Â* I got my set of LH bits at Horrible Fright ... and they hold up
reasonably well unless you try to drill hardened steel . OTOH there's a
set of stripped screw removers out in my toolbox that came from Sears ,
It would probably work in Bob's case since they are a better grade of
hardened steel . Got a set for rounded bolt heads too ... and they work
on stripped out allen head cap screws .

--
Snag
Yes , I'm old
and crochety - and armed .
Get outta my woods !

On 5/17/19 9:43 PM, Bob La Londe wrote:
There is a cracked set screw in one of m Kwik 200 tool holders.Â* Its a 1/2 inch holder so its one of the most common and cheapest to find used.Â* That being said there aren't as many used Kwik 200 tool holders to be found on the most obvious source (Ebay) as their used to be.Â* I hate to pitch a tool holder I already have over such a cheap part.

Here is the problem.Â* There is a tool in the holder and its well secured.Â* I want to take the tool out, but even a clean crisp brand new hex key just pops around like the screw is rounded, but its not.Â* I'd like to save the tool in the holder other wise I might be tempted to press it out.

If there is some exposed screw where it contacts the tool bit, use a cutoff disc in a Dremel tool to cut through the screw. That will relieve the pressure on the screw and should allow you to back it out.

--
Bob Nichols AT comcast.net I am "RNichols42"

On Friday, May 17, 2019 at 10:44:00 PM UTC-4, Bob La Londe wrote:
There is a cracked set screw in one of m Kwik 200 tool holders. Its a 1/2
inch holder so its one of the most common and cheapest to find used. That
being said there aren't as many used Kwik 200 tool holders to be found on
the most obvious source (Ebay) as their used to be. I hate to pitch a tool
holder I already have over such a cheap part.

Here is the problem. There is a tool in the holder and its well secured. I
want to take the tool out, but even a clean crisp brand new hex key just
pops around like the screw is rounded, but its not. I'd like to save the
tool in the holder other wise I might be tempted to press it out.

I would expect the set screw to be metric.

How about finding the Allen wrench that is just a bit too large and grinding it so it fits?

Dan

On Friday, May 17, 2019 at 10:44:00 PM UTC-4, Bob La Londe wrote:
There is a cracked set screw in one of m Kwik 200 tool holders. Its a 1/2
inch holder so its one of the most common and cheapest to find used. That
being said there aren't as many used Kwik 200 tool holders to be found on
the most obvious source (Ebay) as their used to be. I hate to pitch a tool
holder I already have over such a cheap part.

Here is the problem. There is a tool in the holder and its well secured. I
want to take the tool out, but even a clean crisp brand new hex key just
pops around like the screw is rounded, but its not. I'd like to save the
tool in the holder other wise I might be tempted to press it out.

Many years ago a friend had a similar problem. We jury rigged a edm. But my friend ended up taking the part to a machine shop with an edm machine.

Dan

On Fri, 17 May 2019 19:43:54 -0700, "Bob La Londe"
wrote:

There is a cracked set screw in one of m Kwik 200 tool holders. It’s a 1/2
inch holder so its one of the most common and cheapest to find used. That
being said there aren't as many used Kwik 200 tool holders to be found on
the most obvious source (Ebay) as their used to be. I hate to pitch a tool
holder I already have over such a cheap part.

Here is the problem. There is a tool in the holder and its well secured. I
want to take the tool out, but even a clean crisp brand new hex key just
pops around like the screw is rounded, but its not. I'd like to save the
tool in the holder other wise I might be tempted to press it out.

Two solutions:

1 EDM An EDM power supply is fairly easy to make. I use soft
drafting lead (4H) as the machining tool. Fill the hole with kerosene
and with a steady hand (or a drill press, slowly bore a hole straight
through the set screw. That usually relieves the stress enough to
unscrew. If not, move the tool sideways in the hole to cut a slot
almost to the tool post threads.

2. broken stud welding rod. I'm not sure who owns the rod now, as
they've been bought out several times. This is a specialty rod.
Simply poke it down into the hole until an arc starts against the
setscrew. The rod coating forms a protective coating on the threads
that prevents neither an arc forming nor damage to the threads.

build the post of weld metal high enough that vice grips or channel
locks can get a grip. Simply unscrew the assembly. The protective
flux chips off as the broken screw comes out.

I used to own a welding supply wholesale company with a retail
showroom. This company made a wide variety of specialty rods. Came
in packs of 5 rods if I recall. Somewhat expensive but when ya gotta
have 'em.

John
John DeArmond
http://www.neon-john.com
http://www.tnduction.com
Tellico Plains, Occupied TN
See website for email address

"Jim Wilkins" wrote in message
"Bob La Londe" wrote in message

Here is the problem. There is a tool in the holder and
its well secured. I want to take the tool out, but even
a clean crisp brand new hex key just pops around like the
screw is rounded, but its not.


Try an English hex bit if it's metric, or vice versa.


There yah go. That's what I was thinking too.. phil k.

On 5/17/2019 7:43 PM, Bob La Londe wrote:
There is a cracked set screw in one of m Kwik 200 tool holders.Â* Its a
1/2 inch holder so its one of the most common and cheapest to find
used.Â* That being said there aren't as many used Kwik 200 tool holders
to be found on the most obvious source (Ebay) as their used to be.Â* I
hate to pitch a tool holder I already have over such a cheap part.

Here is the problem.Â* There is a tool in the holder and its well
secured.Â* I want to take the tool out, but even a clean crisp brand new
hex key just pops around like the screw is rounded, but its not.Â* I'd
like to save the tool in the holder other wise I might be tempted to
press it out.


I think that ultimately the screw exerts greater pressure on the threads
when I try to turn it because it is cracked. IE: Tries to expand.

"Bob La Londe" wrote in message
...
On 5/17/2019 7:43 PM, Bob La Londe wrote:
There is a cracked set screw in one of m Kwik 200 tool holders. It's
a 1/2 inch holder so its one of the most common and cheapest to
find used. That being said there aren't as many used Kwik 200 tool
holders to be found on the most obvious source (Ebay) as their used
to be. I hate to pitch a tool holder I already have over such a
cheap part.

Here is the problem. There is a tool in the holder and its well
secured. I want to take the tool out, but even a clean crisp brand
new hex key just pops around like the screw is rounded, but its
not. I'd like to save the tool in the holder other wise I might be
tempted to press it out.


I think that ultimately the screw exerts greater pressure on the
threads when I try to turn it because it is cracked. IE: Tries to
expand.

If you had to slice open the slot above the tool bit with a cutoff
wheel to part the setscrews you'd still have a useable toolholder.

On Sat, 18 May 2019 11:23:03 +0700, John B.
wrote:

On Fri, 17 May 2019 23:53:32 -0400, Gerry
wrote:

On Sat, 18 May 2019 10:23:48 +0700, John B.
wrote:

On Fri, 17 May 2019 19:43:54 -0700, "Bob La Londe"
wrote:

There is a cracked set screw in one of m Kwik 200 tool holders. It’s a 1/2
inch holder so its one of the most common and cheapest to find used. That
being said there aren't as many used Kwik 200 tool holders to be found on
the most obvious source (Ebay) as their used to be. I hate to pitch a tool
holder I already have over such a cheap part.

Here is the problem. There is a tool in the holder and its well secured. I
want to take the tool out, but even a clean crisp brand new hex key just
pops around like the screw is rounded, but its not. I'd like to save the
tool in the holder other wise I might be tempted to press it out.

Try drilling out the set screw. Often one can drill a hole lengthwise
through a screw/bolt which seems to release some of the tension and
allows the resulting "tube" to be removed easily with an "easyout".

Even fairly hard set screws can be drilled with a high speed drill bit
at low cutting speeds and high feed pressure.
Have you tried a left spiral drill bit? I prefer them over so-called
"easy-out" by 1000 to 1.

The "easy-outs" I use are a tapered square ground from a high speed
tool bit. We found that the ones with the L.H. (sort of) screw thread
were a bit too much as if you drilled the correct size hole the
easy-out would never slip... it would break instead and getting the
broken easy-out, out of the broken bolt, was even more difficult than
removing the bolt itself :-(

As for L.H. drill bits, I never had access to any but they should work
well. I've seen screws or small bolts get hand loose when a hole was
drilled all the way through. If a L.H. drill bit was used then "Bob's
your Uncle" and it would be out all ready :-)
I try to drill the head off the screw using a LH drill bit larger than
the screw body and, generaly, just before the head coms off (at the
point where tension is removed), the screw backs out.

On Sat, 18 May 2019 14:22:03 -0700, Bob La Londe
wrote:

On 5/17/2019 7:43 PM, Bob La Londe wrote:
There is a cracked set screw in one of m Kwik 200 tool holders.* It’s a
1/2 inch holder so its one of the most common and cheapest to find
used.* That being said there aren't as many used Kwik 200 tool holders
to be found on the most obvious source (Ebay) as their used to be.* I
hate to pitch a tool holder I already have over such a cheap part.

Here is the problem.* There is a tool in the holder and its well
secured.* I want to take the tool out, but even a clean crisp brand new
hex key just pops around like the screw is rounded, but its not.* I'd
like to save the tool in the holder other wise I might be tempted to
press it out.


I think that ultimately the screw exerts greater pressure on the threads
when I try to turn it because it is cracked. IE: Tries to expand.
Drill into the screw with a drill that is the slightly less than the
minor diameter of the thread until the drill is almost as deep as the
bottom of the screw. Then go into the same hole with a flat bottom
drill, still keeping away from the very bottom of the screw. This will
allow the screw to relax away from the tool in the toolholder. After
removing the tool go back into the hole a third time with the flat
bottom drill and it should just screw out of the hole.
Eric

On 2019-05-18, Bob La Londe wrote:
There is a cracked set screw in one of m Kwik 200 tool holders. It?s a 1/2
inch holder so its one of the most common and cheapest to find used. That
being said there aren't as many used Kwik 200 tool holders to be found on
the most obvious source (Ebay) as their used to be. I hate to pitch a tool
holder I already have over such a cheap part.

Understood.

Here is the problem. There is a tool in the holder and its well secured. I
want to take the tool out, but even a clean crisp brand new hex key just
pops around like the screw is rounded, but its not. I'd like to save the
tool in the holder other wise I might be tempted to press it out.

First off -- is it possible that the hex socket is metric
instead of imperial (or imperial if you are using a metric hex key set)?

But -- if you are willing to spend some money to be prepared for
future problems like this -- there is a set of tools for drilling out
taps -- and which will work on hardened setscrews too.

Look for "omegadrill" (Omegadrill set # OD-SET 1). They have a
URL on the box www.omegadrill.com. I got mine from MSC a while back.
They are sometimes offered in their sales flyers -- but be sitting down
when you look at the price. MSC's regular web price at the moment is
$162.51. I could not find it in the flyer within easy reach. MSC's
part number is: 77215606. You can check the other three sources below
for the set -- or perhaps even be able to buy individual drills (the
most expensive part of the 4-drill set).

You did not mention the size of the setscrew. Is this like the
Aloris sets -- just one of the clones? If so, a 200 size is like the
BXA size. For those, the OD-3/16 might fit down into the socket to
start the drilling on center, and the OD-1/4 could likely drill out the
setscrew to near the bottom of the threads. These are the two largest
bits in the set. And it is likely that the screws are a metric
setscrew close to a 5/16" Imperial one. (About 8mm).

The bits look quite weird, but work well in a rigid machine.

O.K. Their "where to buy" link points to two I know and two I
don't

================================================== ====================
MSC Industrial Supply, 1-800-645-7270
www.mscdirect.com

McMaster-Carr Supply, 1-630-833-0300
www.mcmaster.com

Airgas Rutland Tool, 1-800-289-4787
www.rutlandtool.com

Travers Tool Company, 1-800-221-0270
www.travers.com
================================================== ====================

Anyway -- loosen or remove all the other setscrews, clamp the
holder in a vise, and drill through the setscrew until the tool becomes
a little loose in the holder. Then pull it out, and move up to the next
size of bit from the omegadrill set and keep going. Hopefully, when it
bites in, it will spin the screw down into the channel the tool shank
normally fits in.

Another possibility -- check if there is clearance between the
top of the tool shank and the top of the shank channel in the holder.
If so -- try an abrasive disc -- something like the ones in Dremel sets,
but likely you'll need a larger diameter. I have one about 3" diameter
driven by a compressed air tool -- assuming you have an air compressor.
I got this at a local auto parts place for not too much money. Given
this, you may be able to cut through the bottom end of the setscrew,
remove the tool, and then remove the top half of the setscrew.

Good Luck,
DoN.

--
Remove oil spill source from e-mail
Email: | (KV4PH) Voice (all times): (703) 938-4564
(too) near Washington D.C. | http://www.d-and-d.com/dnichols/DoN.html
--- Black Holes are where God is dividing by zero ---

"Bob La Londe" wrote in message ...

There is a cracked set screw in one of m Kwik 200 tool holders. Its a 1/2
inch holder so its one of the most common and cheapest to find used. That
being said there aren't as many used Kwik 200 tool holders to be found on
the most obvious source (Ebay) as their used to be. I hate to pitch a tool
holder I already have over such a cheap part.

Here is the problem. There is a tool in the holder and its well secured. I
want to take the tool out, but even a clean crisp brand new hex key just
pops around like the screw is rounded, but its not. I'd like to save the
tool in the holder other wise I might be tempted to press it out.

*************

Well I drilled it out and smacked an extractor into it and still nothing.
Unfortunately it drilled slightly off center and I don't think I want to
chase down to the threads with bigger drills now. I think my next step will
be to see if I can rotary cut a notch or two with a tiny burr and use a
small drift to back drive it out.

On Wed, 22 May 2019 09:24:08 -0700
"Bob La Londe" wrote:

snip
Well I drilled it out and smacked an extractor into it and still nothing.
Unfortunately it drilled slightly off center and I don't think I want to
chase down to the threads with bigger drills now. I think my next step will
be to see if I can rotary cut a notch or two with a tiny burr and use a
small drift to back drive it out.

Slightly larger left-hand drill bit? Not cheap, especially for a set
but McMaster carries most sizes in singles too. A good chance it would
just unscrew when you hit the magic size that relieves the tension on
it...

Do you have enough material to just drill a bigger hole, thread and use
a larger set screw?

--
Leon Fisk
Grand Rapids MI

On 5/22/2019 9:49 AM, Leon Fisk wrote:

Do you have enough material to just drill a bigger hole, thread and use
a larger set screw?

I don't know how hard the tool holder is, but that's not a bad option.

On 22/05/2019 22:11, Bob La Londe wrote:
On 5/22/2019 9:49 AM, Leon Fisk wrote:

Do you have enough material to just drill a bigger hole, thread and use
a larger set screw?

I don't know how hard the tool holder is, but that's not a bad option.

I recently used some diamond hole saws to remove the remains of a broken
HSS tap in a harder steel. Cheap Chinese hole saws but each went in
about 1/4" before losing it cutting ability. I went through 3 and then
just pulled out the remnants of the tap, haven't tried to finish the
tapping yet, may temper the part slightly before trying to finish the
tapping. The part is an ER16 collet holder which I was tapping 3/8" UNF
to suit a Broom Wade die grinder as I have ER16 collets and thought it
an improvement on my previous homemade collet and collet holder..

On Sat, 18 May 2019 09:59:19 -0400, Neon John wrote:

On Fri, 17 May 2019 19:43:54 -0700, "Bob La Londe"
wrote:

There is a cracked set screw in one of m Kwik 200 tool holders. It’s a 1/2
inch holder so its one of the most common and cheapest to find used. That
being said there aren't as many used Kwik 200 tool holders to be found on
the most obvious source (Ebay) as their used to be. I hate to pitch a tool
holder I already have over such a cheap part.

Here is the problem. There is a tool in the holder and its well secured. I
want to take the tool out, but even a clean crisp brand new hex key just
pops around like the screw is rounded, but its not. I'd like to save the
tool in the holder other wise I might be tempted to press it out.

Two solutions:

1 EDM An EDM power supply is fairly easy to make. I use soft
drafting lead (4H) as the machining tool. Fill the hole with kerosene
and with a steady hand (or a drill press, slowly bore a hole straight
through the set screw. That usually relieves the stress enough to
unscrew. If not, move the tool sideways in the hole to cut a slot
almost to the tool post threads.

2. broken stud welding rod. I'm not sure who owns the rod now, as
they've been bought out several times. This is a specialty rod.
Simply poke it down into the hole until an arc starts against the
setscrew. The rod coating forms a protective coating on the threads
that prevents neither an arc forming nor damage to the threads.

build the post of weld metal high enough that vice grips or channel
locks can get a grip. Simply unscrew the assembly. The protective
flux chips off as the broken screw comes out.

I used to own a welding supply wholesale company with a retail
showroom. This company made a wide variety of specialty rods. Came
in packs of 5 rods if I recall. Somewhat expensive but when ya gotta
have 'em.

John
John DeArmond
http://www.neon-john.com
http://www.tnduction.com
Tellico Plains, Occupied TN
See website for email address

John, can you give us a general idea of what the "fairly easy" EDM
power supply is like?

--
Ed Huntress

On Wednesday, May 22, 2019 at 7:50:50 PM UTC-4, Ed Huntress wrote:


John, can you give us a general idea of what the "fairly easy" EDM
power supply is like?

--
Ed Huntress

It has been a long long time ago, but what I remember is that we used an isolation transformer with a dipper and bucket voltage doubler connected to the output. So that would be a transformer, two diodes, two film capaciters, and maybe a resister to limit the current when ( not if ) the electrode shorts to the work. We used a wooden dowel in the drill press so the drill press was not hot. We used the drill press spindle stops as a rough adjustment and just leaned on the spindle for the fine feed. Crude but it worked.

Dan

wrote in message
...

On Wednesday, May 22, 2019 at 7:50:50 PM UTC-4, Ed Huntress wrote:


John, can you give us a general idea of what the "fairly easy" EDM
power supply is like?

--
Ed Huntress

It has been a long long time ago, but what I remember is that we used an
isolation transformer with a dipper and bucket voltage doubler connected
to the output. So that would be a transformer, two diodes, two film
capaciters, and maybe a resister to limit the current when ( not if ) the
electrode shorts to the work. We used a wooden dowel in the drill press so
the drill press was not hot. We used the drill press spindle stops as a
rough adjustment and just leaned on the spindle for the fine feed. Crude
but it worked.

Dan

A good video on building an edm drill is
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rpHYBz7ToII. He buys the power supply from
https://baxedm.com/ (not cheap) but I think he had lots of good ideas for
the rest of the system and he covers how it all works and where to get the
parts very well.

--
Regards,
Carl Ijames

On Wed, 22 May 2019 17:56:17 -0700 (PDT), "
wrote:

On Wednesday, May 22, 2019 at 7:50:50 PM UTC-4, Ed Huntress wrote:


John, can you give us a general idea of what the "fairly easy" EDM
power supply is like?

--
Ed Huntress

It has been a long long time ago, but what I remember is that we used an isolation transformer with a dipper and bucket voltage doubler connected to the output. So that would be a transformer, two diodes, two film capaciters, and maybe a resister to limit the current when ( not if ) the electrode shorts to the work. We used a wooden dowel in the drill press so the drill press was not hot. We used the drill press spindle stops as a rough adjustment and just leaned on the spindle for the fine feed. Crude but it worked.

Dan

OK, that's a basic type of old tap-buster circuit. I wondered if John
had anything in there to prevent arcs and sticking. Those simple
circuits tend to weld the elctrode and work together if you don't have
a really good touch.

If he's using 4H pencil lead I think he has a hell of a lot of
resistance in the circuit. That does limit the arcing and welding.

Anyway, these can be a good way to erode a piece of hardened steel,
but my experience with commercial ones is that they're bog slow unless
the mork is very small -- like a set screw.

BTW, the commercial ones generally *drop* the voltage, not double it.
But that would depend on the rest of your circuit, including the
electrode. They usually use copper or another metal..

--
Ed Huntress

On Wednesday, May 22, 2019 at 9:26:53 PM UTC-4, Ed Huntress wrote:


OK, that's a basic type of old tap-buster circuit. I wondered if John
had anything in there to prevent arcs and sticking. Those simple
circuits tend to weld the elctrode and work together if you don't have
a really good touch.

We had the work submerged in kerosene and had no problem with sticking. I can not remember if we used the carbon from a flashlight battery or a nail.



If he's using 4H pencil lead I think he has a hell of a lot of
resistance in the circuit. That does limit the arcing and welding.

Anyway, these can be a good way to erode a piece of hardened steel,
but my experience with commercial ones is that they're bog slow unless
the mork is very small -- like a set screw.

For a one time need , slow was better than nothing. For something used regularly, a stepper motor drive and a micro controller would mean you could set it up and then do something else.


BTW, the commercial ones generally *drop* the voltage, not double it.
But that would depend on the rest of your circuit, including the
electrode. They usually use copper or another metal..


We did not double the voltage. Just used a voltage doubler circuit. The actual voltage depended on the voltage required to arc.

Dan


--
Ed Huntress

On Wed, 22 May 2019 14:11:28 -0700, Bob La Londe
wrote:

On 5/22/2019 9:49 AM, Leon Fisk wrote:

Do you have enough material to just drill a bigger hole, thread and use
a larger set screw?

I don't know how hard the tool holder is, but that's not a bad option.

Gonna do them all/both, so it doesn't happen again? Good man.

--
If more sane people were armed,
crazy people would get off fewer shots.
Support the 2nd Amendment

On 5/25/2019 10:25 PM, Larry Jaques wrote: On Wed, 22 May 2019 14:11:28
-0700, Bob La Londe
wrote:

On 5/22/2019 9:49 AM, Leon Fisk wrote:

Do you have enough material to just drill a bigger hole, thread and use
a larger set screw?

I don't know how hard the tool holder is, but that's not a bad option.

Gonna do them all/both, so it doesn't happen again? Good man.

--
If more sane people were armed,
crazy people would get off fewer shots.
Support the 2nd Amendment


Actually I want a TC tapper or three for this mill. I am seriously
considering using a 1/2 shank ER collet chuck to make a first one out of
this tool holder. The the set screw becomes mute as there will be a
"slot" for the anti twist pin in the straight shank collet chuck. I've
already made a couple TC tappers that way for my TTS style tool holder
mill out of 1144 so my only concern becomes the hardness of this tool
holder and how to hold it in the lathe. Probably with an expanding
mandrel.

"Bob La Londe" wrote in message
...
On 5/25/2019 10:25 PM, Larry Jaques wrote: On Wed, 22 May 2019
14:11:28 -0700, Bob La Londe
wrote:

On 5/22/2019 9:49 AM, Leon Fisk wrote:

Do you have enough material to just drill a bigger hole, thread
and use
a larger set screw?

I don't know how hard the tool holder is, but that's not a bad
option.

Gonna do them all/both, so it doesn't happen again? Good man.

--
If more sane people were armed,
crazy people would get off fewer shots.
Support the 2nd Amendment


Actually I want a TC tapper or three for this mill. I am seriously
considering using a 1/2 shank ER collet chuck to make a first one
out of this tool holder. The the set screw becomes mute as there
will be a "slot" for the anti twist pin in the straight shank collet
chuck. I've already made a couple TC tappers that way for my TTS
style tool holder mill out of 1144 so my only concern becomes the
hardness of this tool holder and how to hold it in the lathe.
Probably with an expanding mandrel.

I confused TTS with TTC lathe toolholders.

On 5/27/2019 9:12 AM, Jim Wilkins wrote:
"Bob La Londe" wrote in message
...
On 5/25/2019 10:25 PM, Larry Jaques wrote: On Wed, 22 May 2019
14:11:28 -0700, Bob La Londe
wrote:

On 5/22/2019 9:49 AM, Leon Fisk wrote:

Do you have enough material to just drill a bigger hole, thread
and use
a larger set screw?

I don't know how hard the tool holder is, but that's not a bad
option.

Gonna do them all/both, so it doesn't happen again? Good man.

--
If more sane people were armed,
crazy people would get off fewer shots.
Support the 2nd Amendment


Actually I want a TC tapper or three for this mill. I am seriously
considering using a 1/2 shank ER collet chuck to make a first one
out of this tool holder. The the set screw becomes mute as there
will be a "slot" for the anti twist pin in the straight shank collet
chuck. I've already made a couple TC tappers that way for my TTS
style tool holder mill out of 1144 so my only concern becomes the
hardness of this tool holder and how to hold it in the lathe.
Probably with an expanding mandrel.

I confused TTS with TTC lathe toolholders.




TTS is a 3/4 straight shank tool holder with a flange that has a recess
to clear a flush ground 3/4 R8 Collet when it extends from the spindle
to loosen a tool. The tool indexes repeatably off the spindle nose.
TTS I believe is a trademark owned by Tormach and stands for Tormach
Tooling System. I use the term TTS "style" to indicate the tool holders
I made are not made by Tormach.

This tool is a Kwik 200, but I plan to make some TC tappers similar to
ones I made with a TTS style shank and body.

On Wed, 22 May 2019 09:24:08 -0700, "Bob La Londe"
wrote:



"Bob La Londe" wrote in message ...

There is a cracked set screw in one of m Kwik 200 tool holders. It’s a 1/2
inch holder so its one of the most common and cheapest to find used. That
being said there aren't as many used Kwik 200 tool holders to be found on
the most obvious source (Ebay) as their used to be. I hate to pitch a tool
holder I already have over such a cheap part.

Here is the problem. There is a tool in the holder and its well secured. I
want to take the tool out, but even a clean crisp brand new hex key just
pops around like the screw is rounded, but its not. I'd like to save the
tool in the holder other wise I might be tempted to press it out.

*************

Well I drilled it out and smacked an extractor into it and still nothing.
Unfortunately it drilled slightly off center and I don't think I want to
chase down to the threads with bigger drills now. I think my next step will
be to see if I can rotary cut a notch or two with a tiny burr and use a
small drift to back drive it out.

Simply drill it out. They are only surface hardened. Good steel..so if
you have a carbide bit, by all means use it..but they come out easy
enough.

I have to do it a lot in the machine shops I service.

__

"Poor widdle Wudy...mentally ill, lies constantly, doesnt know who he is, or even what gender "he" is.

No more pathetic creature has ever walked the earth. But...he is locked into a mental hospital for the safety of the public.

Which is a very good thing."

Asun rauhassa, valmistaudun sotaan.


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On Sun, 19 May 2019 09:05:04 -0700, wrote:

On Sat, 18 May 2019 14:22:03 -0700, Bob La Londe
wrote:

On 5/17/2019 7:43 PM, Bob La Londe wrote:
There is a cracked set screw in one of m Kwik 200 tool holders.* It’s a
1/2 inch holder so its one of the most common and cheapest to find
used.* That being said there aren't as many used Kwik 200 tool holders
to be found on the most obvious source (Ebay) as their used to be.* I
hate to pitch a tool holder I already have over such a cheap part.

Here is the problem.* There is a tool in the holder and its well
secured.* I want to take the tool out, but even a clean crisp brand new
hex key just pops around like the screw is rounded, but its not.* I'd
like to save the tool in the holder other wise I might be tempted to
press it out.


I think that ultimately the screw exerts greater pressure on the threads
when I try to turn it because it is cracked. IE: Tries to expand.
Drill into the screw with a drill that is the slightly less than the
minor diameter of the thread until the drill is almost as deep as the
bottom of the screw. Then go into the same hole with a flat bottom
drill, still keeping away from the very bottom of the screw. This will
allow the screw to relax away from the tool in the toolholder. After
removing the tool go back into the hole a third time with the flat
bottom drill and it should just screw out of the hole.
Eric

That is a very good method.

__

"Poor widdle Wudy...mentally ill, lies constantly, doesnt know who he is, or even what gender "he" is.

No more pathetic creature has ever walked the earth. But...he is locked into a mental hospital for the safety of the public.

Which is a very good thing."

Asun rauhassa, valmistaudun sotaan.


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