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| Metalworking (rec.crafts.metalworking) Discuss various aspects of working with metal, such as machining, welding, metal joining, screwing, casting, hardening/tempering, blacksmithing/forging, spinning and hammer work, sheet metal work. |
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#1
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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That's it. No more fluorescent bulbs.
I bought some LED PAR replacement bulbs and installed them in the
porch overhang. Instant on! At 19 degrees F. And the light color is far superior to the old fluorescent bulbs I had in there. And no mercury. I'm dubious about the 22 year lifespan but if they last 5 years I'll be happy. I have 3 8 foot fixtures in the shop with bad ballasts. I'm just gonna pitch the damn fixtures and install LEDs. New ballasts are more expensive and they are a bitch to replace 16 feet inn the air. Just as much work to install new fixtures for new style bulbs. So I'll just put in LEDs and be done with it. I have never been happy with other than incandescent lighting, the color of the light has always been best. But the LEDs finally look great to me. Eric --- This email is free from viruses and malware because avast! Antivirus protection is active. http://www.avast.com |
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#2
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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That's it. No more fluorescent bulbs.
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#4
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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That's it. No more fluorescent bulbs.
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#5
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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That's it. No more fluorescent bulbs.
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#6
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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That's it. No more fluorescent bulbs.
On Thu, 12 Dec 2013 13:50:15 -0800, mike wrote:
On 12/12/2013 9:47 AM, wrote: I bought some LED PAR replacement bulbs and installed them in the porch overhang. Instant on! At 19 degrees F. And the light color is far superior to the old fluorescent bulbs I had in there. And no mercury. I'm dubious about the 22 year lifespan but if they last 5 years I'll be happy. I have 3 8 foot fixtures in the shop with bad ballasts. I'm just gonna pitch the damn fixtures and install LEDs. New ballasts are more expensive and they are a bitch to replace 16 feet inn the air. Just as much work to install new fixtures for new style bulbs. So I'll just put in LEDs and be done with it. I have never been happy with other than incandescent lighting, the color of the light has always been best. But the LEDs finally look great to me. Eric --- This email is free from viruses and malware because avast! Antivirus protection is active. http://www.avast.com I had a nice chat at a garage sale with a guy who'd just installed LED's in his garage. They were very nice. But there were a whole lot of them. He told me the price, but I fainted and can't remember what it was. One of my clients just relamped their entire factory and warehouse with LEDs. Replaced 460 watt halide vapour bulbs with 160 watt LEDs - and it is brighter now than with the ol;d lights - and instant on - no buzzing - about $460 per unit |
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#7
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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That's it. No more fluorescent bulbs.
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#8
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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That's it. No more fluorescent bulbs.
On Thu, 12 Dec 2013 18:57:13 -0600, "Lloyd E. Sponenburgh"
lloydspinsidemindspring.com wrote: fired this volley in : Replaced 460 watt halide vapour bulbs with 160 watt LEDs - and it is brighter now than with the ol;d lights - and instant on - no buzzing - about $460 per unit That's going to be an iffy payback. I have a number of those metal/halide vapor lights in my high overhead in the barn... they've been in almost daily service for me for over 18 years... never a replacement ballast or bulb; And I bought them USED from a parking garage demolition project in 1995. No telling how long they'd been in service there. That being the case, they last at LEAST as long as the LEDs claim to, but mine are only about $30 per lamp. I figger it'll take about two years to save $430 in power per bulb on a difference of only 300 watts. And that's if the LED lamps really hold up long enough to pay back. The vapor lamps are proven, LONG-lasting technology. Lloyd The building is 8 years old. They have had several ballast failures already. Payback should be less than 5 years . Perhaps the30? year old units you have are higher quality than what was available 8 years ago???. The light is also brighter, and at the same less harsh (softer shadows) than the old light - and most of this is factory - "work space". The LEDs are also a lot easier to reposition. |
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#9
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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That's it. No more fluorescent bulbs.
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#10
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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That's it. No more fluorescent bulbs.
On Thu, 12 Dec 2013 16:59:37 -0600, Jon Elson
wrote: wrote: Just as much work to install new fixtures for new style bulbs. So I'll just put in LEDs and be done with it. I have never been happy with other than incandescent lighting, the color of the light has always been best. But the LEDs finally look great to me. I built my own LED light a year ago for our laundry room/pantry, which had a single recessed bulb that poorly lit the room. I put 10 1 W LEDs on a piece of copper-clad PC board (as a heat sink) and built a DC-DC converter power supply from a National Semi reference circuit for one of their chips. it worked VERY well, and is blazingly bright. It IS a bit harsh-blue, but is fine for that room. Might not be optimum for the living room or kitchen, though. I bought the parts to do a 20-LED string for a tube fluorescent retrofit, but haven't gotten around to it, yet. I picked up a 1 meter long string of LEDs in plastic strip from eBay, including a power supply with 2-prong 120v plug for $7.89 (delivered) a while back. It uses 3528 LEDs. They work well and are cool and inexpensive to run. Love 'em. I'm really sold on LED tech. If the Chinese would get better power supplies in their products, the Europeans and American's would likely -never- sell another one of their extremely high-priced products. At best, some of them are 50x overpriced. It's ridiculous. -- And the day came when the risk to remain tight in a bud was more painful than the risk it took to blossom. -- Anaïs Nin |
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#11
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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That's it. No more fluorescent bulbs.
On Thu, 12 Dec 2013 18:02:20 -0500, "Pete C."
wrote: wrote: I bought some LED PAR replacement bulbs and installed them in the porch overhang. Instant on! At 19 degrees F. And the light color is far superior to the old fluorescent bulbs I had in there. And no mercury. I'm dubious about the 22 year lifespan but if they last 5 years I'll be happy. I have 3 8 foot fixtures in the shop with bad ballasts. I'm just gonna pitch the damn fixtures and install LEDs. New ballasts are more expensive and they are a bitch to replace 16 feet inn the air. Just as much work to install new fixtures for new style bulbs. So I'll just put in LEDs and be done with it. I have never been happy with other than incandescent lighting, the color of the light has always been best. But the LEDs finally look great to me. Eric While I'm a fan of LED lighting for household use now that the technology has matured in the last year or two, I have not yet seen anything LED to replace the ubiquitous dual 4' T8 shop light. Certainly not at a reasonable price given the shop light costs $20 with lamps, so a LED replacement should be under $100 or so. Those LED street lights are nice, but way outside a reasonable price range for shoplight replacement. Check these out. Maybe you have now! http://tinyurl.com/lffa779 cool white 12v $ (oops, 60cm/2', but $1.75 I'd build or buy new fixtures & power supplies for that savings. http://tinyurl.com/lj9hd9s pure white 110v (my color choice) $$ Simple replacement bulb. http://tinyurl.com/lky5ozr choose color 110v $$$ but under your limit AHA! 4-footers, love their warning about "ballets" US seller. These would be direct replacement after bypassing the ballast. $32 ($25 apiece in case lot of 100) I don't think these would be as bright as fluors because of the derating, but they'd be nice, long, bright strips. My 20W incan replacement bulb is called a corn light, but uses 104 of the 5050 chips instead of conical plastic coated LEDs. http://tinyurl.com/lhcgzxw It's brighter than a 100W cool white bulb or 25W CFL. -- And the day came when the risk to remain tight in a bud was more painful than the risk it took to blossom. -- Anaïs Nin |
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#12
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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That's it. No more fluorescent bulbs.
Larry Jaques wrote: Check these out. Maybe you have now! http://tinyurl.com/lffa779 cool white 12v $ (oops, 60cm/2', but $1.75 I'd build or buy new fixtures & power supplies for that savings. http://tinyurl.com/lj9hd9s pure white 110v (my color choice) $$ Simple replacement bulb. http://tinyurl.com/lky5ozr choose color 110v $$$ but under your limit AHA! 4-footers, love their warning about "ballets" US seller. These would be direct replacement after bypassing the ballast. $32 ($25 apiece in case lot of 100) I don't think these would be as bright as fluors because of the derating, but they'd be nice, long, bright strips. My 20W incan replacement bulb is called a corn light, but uses 104 of the 5050 chips instead of conical plastic coated LEDs. http://tinyurl.com/lhcgzxw It's brighter than a 100W cool white bulb or 25W CFL. Have you seen these 3W LED fixtures? I mounted one form a shelf over my computer desk to illuminate the keyboard. I think one will fit un place of the light bulb on my drill press, and I plan on installing a bunch of them as emergency lighting. Each comes with an AC power supply, but they will run on DC. http://www.ebay.com/itm/110873993773 $4.86 each, free shipping. -- Anyone wanting to run for any political office in the US should have to have a DD214, and a honorable discharge. |
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#13
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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That's it. No more fluorescent bulbs.
On Thu, 12 Dec 2013 20:53:45 -0800, Larry Jaques
wrote: On Thu, 12 Dec 2013 16:59:37 -0600, Jon Elson wrote: wrote: Just as much work to install new fixtures for new style bulbs. So I'll just put in LEDs and be done with it. I have never been happy with other than incandescent lighting, the color of the light has always been best. But the LEDs finally look great to me. I built my own LED light a year ago for our laundry room/pantry, which had a single recessed bulb that poorly lit the room. I put 10 1 W LEDs on a piece of copper-clad PC board (as a heat sink) and built a DC-DC converter power supply from a National Semi reference circuit for one of their chips. it worked VERY well, and is blazingly bright. It IS a bit harsh-blue, but is fine for that room. Might not be optimum for the living room or kitchen, though. I bought the parts to do a 20-LED string for a tube fluorescent retrofit, but haven't gotten around to it, yet. I picked up a 1 meter long string of LEDs in plastic strip from eBay, including a power supply with 2-prong 120v plug for $7.89 (delivered) a while back. It uses 3528 LEDs. They work well and are cool and inexpensive to run. Love 'em. I'm really sold on LED tech. If the Chinese would get better power supplies in their products, the Europeans and American's would likely -never- sell another one of their extremely high-priced products. At best, some of them are 50x overpriced. It's ridiculous. " If you want first quality oats you need to be willing to pay first quality prices. If you are willing to settle for oats that have already been through the horse, they come a little cheaper". With the Chinese stuff, the oats have already been through the horse at least once. Failure rate on the chinese LEDs I've purchaced has been something north of 25% within 6 months. |
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#14
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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That's it. No more fluorescent bulbs.
Larry Jaques wrote: http://tinyurl.com/lky5ozr choose color 110v $$$ but under your limit AHA! 4-footers, love their warning about "ballets" US seller. These would be direct replacement after bypassing the ballast. $32 ($25 apiece in case lot of 100) That looks promising, I ordered one to test. |
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#15
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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That's it. No more fluorescent bulbs.
On Thu, 12 Dec 2013 19:39:13 -0500, wrote:
On Thu, 12 Dec 2013 13:50:15 -0800, mike wrote: On 12/12/2013 9:47 AM, wrote: I bought some LED PAR replacement bulbs and installed them in the porch overhang. Instant on! At 19 degrees F. And the light color is far superior to the old fluorescent bulbs I had in there. And no mercury. I'm dubious about the 22 year lifespan but if they last 5 years I'll be happy. I have 3 8 foot fixtures in the shop with bad ballasts. I'm just gonna pitch the damn fixtures and install LEDs. New ballasts are more expensive and they are a bitch to replace 16 feet inn the air. Just as much work to install new fixtures for new style bulbs. So I'll just put in LEDs and be done with it. I have never been happy with other than incandescent lighting, the color of the light has always been best. But the LEDs finally look great to me. Eric --- This email is free from viruses and malware because avast! Antivirus protection is active. http://www.avast.com I had a nice chat at a garage sale with a guy who'd just installed LED's in his garage. They were very nice. But there were a whole lot of them. He told me the price, but I fainted and can't remember what it was. One of my clients just relamped their entire factory and warehouse with LEDs. Replaced 460 watt halide vapour bulbs with 160 watt LEDs - and it is brighter now than with the ol;d lights - and instant on - no buzzing - about $460 per unit Possible not bad if the power company kicked in. I re-lighted my warehouse and shop and the power company gave me close to 50% back. I'm now all T5 and T8 lamps. LED's are geting in the good price ballpark. Remove 333 to reply. Randy |
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#16
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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That's it. No more fluorescent bulbs.
On Fri, 13 Dec 2013 00:33:18 -0500, "Michael A. Terrell"
wrote: Larry Jaques wrote: Check these out. Maybe you have now! http://tinyurl.com/lffa779 cool white 12v $ (oops, 60cm/2', but $1.75 I'd build or buy new fixtures & power supplies for that savings. http://tinyurl.com/lj9hd9s pure white 110v (my color choice) $$ Simple replacement bulb. http://tinyurl.com/lky5ozr choose color 110v $$$ but under your limit AHA! 4-footers, love their warning about "ballets" US seller. These would be direct replacement after bypassing the ballast. $32 ($25 apiece in case lot of 100) I don't think these would be as bright as fluors because of the derating, but they'd be nice, long, bright strips. My 20W incan replacement bulb is called a corn light, but uses 104 of the 5050 chips instead of conical plastic coated LEDs. http://tinyurl.com/lhcgzxw It's brighter than a 100W cool white bulb or 25W CFL. Have you seen these 3W LED fixtures? I mounted one form a shelf over my computer desk to illuminate the keyboard. I think one will fit un place of the light bulb on my drill press, and I plan on installing a bunch of them as emergency lighting. Each comes with an AC power supply, but they will run on DC. http://www.ebay.com/itm/110873993773 $4.86 each, free shipping. Eek! ****-colored 3000k light. Also, you'll have to isolate those in the ceiling or they'll suck every ounce of heat out of your house in four minutes flat. More money, but it's a more pure art form for the shop. titter http://tinyurl.com/n3wanz7 Screw a magnet on the back. -- And the day came when the risk to remain tight in a bud was more painful than the risk it took to blossom. -- Anaïs Nin |
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#17
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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That's it. No more fluorescent bulbs.
In article ,
Randy333 wrote: and instant on - no buzzing - about $460 per unit Possible not bad if the power company kicked in. I re-lighted my warehouse and shop and the power company gave me close to 50% back. I'm now all T5 and T8 lamps. LED's are geting in the good price ballpark. There are some good deals on "can light replacements" via electric utility subsidy around here - different ones subsidized in different states, but typically $15 or so for a 9-10W unit that replaces the whole bottom trim ring (if replacing) or is the whole bottom trim ring (if new.) Nominally 1/2 price of what they go for unsubsidized, and very nice light output (all into the room, none into the can.) Instant on, love the cold, both of the versions on subsidy here are also dimmable (though the LED dimmers spoil the instant-on by 1/2 second or so) and wet-location rated. -- Cats, coffee, chocolate...vices to live by Please don't feed the trolls. Killfile and ignore them so they will go away. |
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#18
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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That's it. No more fluorescent bulbs.
Ecnerwal wrote: In article , Randy333 wrote: and instant on - no buzzing - about $460 per unit Possible not bad if the power company kicked in. I re-lighted my warehouse and shop and the power company gave me close to 50% back. I'm now all T5 and T8 lamps. LED's are geting in the good price ballpark. There are some good deals on "can light replacements" via electric utility subsidy around here - different ones subsidized in different states, but typically $15 or so for a 9-10W unit that replaces the whole bottom trim ring (if replacing) or is the whole bottom trim ring (if new.) Nominally 1/2 price of what they go for unsubsidized, and very nice light output (all into the room, none into the can.) Instant on, love the cold, both of the versions on subsidy here are also dimmable (though the LED dimmers spoil the instant-on by 1/2 second or so) and wet-location rated. I just put 13 of those LED can units in a new installation and they are working beautifully. For new the unit is barely double the cost of the basic trim ring it negates so it's pretty cheap. |
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#19
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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That's it. No more fluorescent bulbs.
On Thu, 12 Dec 2013 20:41:51 -0800, Larry Jaques
wrote: On Thu, 12 Dec 2013 09:47:54 -0800, wrote: I bought some LED PAR replacement bulbs and installed them in the porch overhang. Instant on! At 19 degrees F. And the light color is far superior to the old fluorescent bulbs I had in there. And no What color temp are they? mercury. I'm dubious about the 22 year lifespan but if they last 5 years I'll be happy. I have 3 8 foot fixtures in the shop with bad ballasts. I'm just gonna pitch the damn fixtures and install LEDs. New ballasts are more expensive and they are a bitch to replace 16 feet inn the air. Just as much work to install new fixtures for new style bulbs. So I'll just put in LEDs and be done with it. I have never been happy with other than incandescent lighting, the color of the light has always been best. I've always despised the yellow light from typical incandescents and preferred the light from 4100k or higher fluors and now LEDs. In CFLs, I prefer the 5000 to the 6500k. The 6500k seem to have a bluish tone to them. 4100k is the lowest temp I like in fluor. But the LEDs finally look great to me. I buy 5000k to 6500k LEDs and love the whiter color. The ones I'm experimenting with now in E27 bases use 5050 LED components. The 15W power supply died a couple months into the test, maybe 120 hours! eBay got my money back from them. The 20W from another supplier has been working for about 6 months now. It's the equivalent of a good 100W incan (23W fluor) but is 6500k color. NICE and white. Chinese import, cost $12.34. A little 4W E27 screw-in uses 3W of power and 24 of the 5050 chips. It works well for reading in an articulated fixture. It cost $2.76. The little spots I got for the emergency lighting use 3x3 Epistar drivers. They're MR16 bases and draw 7W, despite being rated 9W. They downgrade the power to give a longer life, I believe. $2.13 each. I accidentally bought a dozen E27-based 6W bulbs which use 3528 LED chips. I didn't pay enough attention so I got -220v- bulbs. They're about 1/3 the brightness at 120v. I'll sell all twelve of them to any of the resident Canucks for $30 plus actual shipping. Ping me offline. I'm waiting for American mfgrs to come down to a sane price before buying one. Chrikey, $65-238 PER BULB? Get real! Anything under $50 in the USA right now is a 40 or 60W equivalent and most are 2700k, very yellow to me. Ick! I have a few CFLs, dimmables from China, which are lasting 5+ years. Unfortunately, they're about 3000k and are too yellow for my tastes. I dunno the color temp but I think it's close to 4000k. Anyway, not yellow and not blue. The blue light is just too hard for me to see by. For the shop lights I will be a little more selective than for porch lights. My son and I had the same idea about new fixture placement though. I'm gonna attach them to the old 8 foot skeletons of the present fixtures. Eric --- This email is free from viruses and malware because avast! Antivirus protection is active. http://www.avast.com |
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#20
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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That's it. No more fluorescent bulbs.
Larry Jaques wrote: On Fri, 13 Dec 2013 00:33:18 -0500, "Michael A. Terrell" ? wrote: ? ?Larry Jaques wrote: ?? ?? Check these out. Maybe you have now! ?? http://tinyurl.com/lffa779 cool white 12v $ (oops, 60cm/2', but $1.75 ?? I'd build or buy new fixtures ? power supplies for that savings. ?? ?? http://tinyurl.com/lj9hd9s pure white 110v (my color choice) $$ ?? Simple replacement bulb. ?? ?? http://tinyurl.com/lky5ozr choose color 110v $$$ but under your limit ?? AHA! 4-footers, love their warning about "ballets" US seller. ?? These would be direct replacement after bypassing the ballast. ?? $32 ($25 apiece in case lot of 100) ?? ?? I don't think these would be as bright as fluors because of the ?? derating, but they'd be nice, long, bright strips. ?? ?? My 20W incan replacement bulb is called a corn light, but uses 104 of ?? the 5050 chips instead of conical plastic coated LEDs. ?? http://tinyurl.com/lhcgzxw It's brighter than a 100W cool white bulb ?? or 25W CFL. ? ? ? Have you seen these 3W LED fixtures? I mounted one form a shelf over ?my computer desk to illuminate the keyboard. I think one will fit un ?place of the light bulb on my drill press, and I plan on installing a ?bunch of them as emergency lighting. Each comes with an AC power ?supply, but they will run on DC. ? ??http://www.ebay.com/itm/110873993773? $4.86 each, free shipping. Eek! ****-colored 3000k light. Also, you'll have to isolate those in the ceiling or they'll suck every ounce of heat out of your house in four minutes flat. More money, but it's a more pure art form for the shop. ?titter? http://tinyurl.com/n3wanz7 Screw a magnet on the back. And wire nut 120V to the loose wires? That thing is ~4" long and 2" diameter. All I'm after is emergency lighting, and they will not suck out any heat. I was planning on making a long, thin box to mount them down the hallway, and some similar mounts for the rest of the house. The heatsink is almost cold to the touch. It measures less than 6° F rise and has been on for hours. It is 2" from the back of the flange, to the back of the heat sink, so it won't take much space. -- Anyone wanting to run for any political office in the US should have to have a DD214, and a honorable discharge. |
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#21
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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That's it. No more fluorescent bulbs.
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#22
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That's it. No more fluorescent bulbs.
On Fri, 13 Dec 2013 11:08:00 -0500, "Pete C."
wrote: Larry Jaques wrote: http://tinyurl.com/lky5ozr choose color 110v $$$ but under your limit AHA! 4-footers, love their warning about "ballets" US seller. These would be direct replacement after bypassing the ballast. $32 ($25 apiece in case lot of 100) That looks promising, I ordered one to test. I didn't like the 18W figure at all, so let us know how bright they are. I may go for some of the 2-footers @ $1.75 each. -- And the day came when the risk to remain tight in a bud was more painful than the risk it took to blossom. -- Anaïs Nin |
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#23
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That's it. No more fluorescent bulbs.
Larry Jaques wrote: On Fri, 13 Dec 2013 11:08:00 -0500, "Pete C." wrote: Larry Jaques wrote: http://tinyurl.com/lky5ozr choose color 110v $$$ but under your limit AHA! 4-footers, love their warning about "ballets" US seller. These would be direct replacement after bypassing the ballast. $32 ($25 apiece in case lot of 100) That looks promising, I ordered one to test. I didn't like the 18W figure at all, so let us know how bright they are. I may go for some of the 2-footers @ $1.75 each. 18W consumption for an LED puts the "incandescent equivalent" at around 50W, so a "fluorescent equivalent" of 32W (same as the T8) or better is reasonable. |
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#24
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That's it. No more fluorescent bulbs.
On Fri, 13 Dec 2013 19:09:43 -0500, "Michael A. Terrell"
wrote: Larry Jaques wrote: On Fri, 13 Dec 2013 00:33:18 -0500, "Michael A. Terrell" ? wrote: ? ?Larry Jaques wrote: ?? ?? Check these out. Maybe you have now! ?? http://tinyurl.com/lffa779 cool white 12v $ (oops, 60cm/2', but $1.75 ?? I'd build or buy new fixtures ? power supplies for that savings. ?? ?? http://tinyurl.com/lj9hd9s pure white 110v (my color choice) $$ ?? Simple replacement bulb. ?? ?? http://tinyurl.com/lky5ozr choose color 110v $$$ but under your limit ?? AHA! 4-footers, love their warning about "ballets" US seller. ?? These would be direct replacement after bypassing the ballast. ?? $32 ($25 apiece in case lot of 100) ?? ?? I don't think these would be as bright as fluors because of the ?? derating, but they'd be nice, long, bright strips. ?? ?? My 20W incan replacement bulb is called a corn light, but uses 104 of ?? the 5050 chips instead of conical plastic coated LEDs. ?? http://tinyurl.com/lhcgzxw It's brighter than a 100W cool white bulb ?? or 25W CFL. ? ? ? Have you seen these 3W LED fixtures? I mounted one form a shelf over ?my computer desk to illuminate the keyboard. I think one will fit un ?place of the light bulb on my drill press, and I plan on installing a ?bunch of them as emergency lighting. Each comes with an AC power ?supply, but they will run on DC. ? ??http://www.ebay.com/itm/110873993773? $4.86 each, free shipping. Eek! ****-colored 3000k light. Also, you'll have to isolate those in the ceiling or they'll suck every ounce of heat out of your house in four minutes flat. More money, but it's a more pure art form for the shop. ?titter? http://tinyurl.com/n3wanz7 Screw a magnet on the back. And wire nut 120V to the loose wires? That thing is ~4" long and 2" diameter. No, you pull the front bezel out and pop a donut in the hole to rim the edge, pull your zip cord through that, and wirenut it inside the can. All I'm after is emergency lighting, and they will not suck out any heat. I was planning on making a long, thin box to mount them down the hallway, and some similar mounts for the rest of the house. I went with inexpensive pullcord globe lamps. They were $4 each and $4 delivery for all, so $28 for 6, delivered. Sucha deal! Pull- switches cost another $4 each and the lamp place cut the holes and installed them at that price, or I would have done it myself, though my Whitney/Roper hand punch doesn't have a die that large. They had a nice little desk-mounted DiAcro punch which worked well. The spots do brighten the bottom of the globe a bit more, but the diffusion is great, so it's hardly noticeable. I was pleased. It makes them better for reading if you sit directly under them, with them mounted on the ceiling. I mounted one surface-style, but will have to go into the attic and drill holes/solder wiring for the rest, preferring that over wire nuts for longevity. That'll probably happen in January, when handyman work is gone for the season. I'm surprisingly busy right now for the first time since I started the business. http://tinyurl.com/lokpctl lamps I wanted point control on lighting so I opted for the pull switches. I may try some of the 48-LED panels in those. Have you seen them? They stay pretty cool, too, and draw 135ma at 12v. I'm really surprised that nobody has boxes or bezels for them yet. They're not quite as bright as the 9W spots, but this is emergency lighting, after all. Dim beats dark by 1000%, and bright draws too much energy. http://tinyurl.com/lmk9ybx The heatsink is almost cold to the touch. It measures less than 6° F rise and has been on for hours. It is 2" from the back of the flange, to the back of the heat sink, so it won't take much space. Nice! The MR-16 style LEDs I bought replace the old halogens and are 2" in diameter, too. Their heatsinks do rise in temp, but won't burn you in the ranges I have: 3, 4, and 9W. The 9W flashlight I made has an (so far) open bulb. I need to clean that up to protect it, but it's sturdy so far. http://tinyurl.com/l75hr6y -- And the day came when the risk to remain tight in a bud was more painful than the risk it took to blossom. -- Anaïs Nin |
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#25
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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That's it. No more fluorescent bulbs.
In article ,
"Pete C." wrote: 18W consumption for an LED puts the "incandescent equivalent" at around 50W, so a "fluorescent equivalent" of 32W (same as the T8) or better is reasonable. Only for fairly crappy LEDs, IMHO. Of course, there are plenty of crappy LEDs available for folks that see LED and don't pay attention to lumens, watts, or lumens per watt. 50 incandescent, 810 lumens is the best I find on a quick look. My old-tech (as these things go - it's a few years old) 20W RAB LPAK puts out ~1400 lumens from 20-22 watts (of course, it's a kinda expensive exterior fixture.) 8.9 watt more recent and much less-expensive can-lights, 620 lumens -- Cats, coffee, chocolate...vices to live by Please don't feed the trolls. Killfile and ignore them so they will go away. |
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#26
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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That's it. No more fluorescent bulbs.
On Sat, 14 Dec 2013 07:39:35 -0800, Larry Jaques
wrote: On Fri, 13 Dec 2013 19:09:43 -0500, "Michael A. Terrell" wrote: Larry Jaques wrote: On Fri, 13 Dec 2013 00:33:18 -0500, "Michael A. Terrell" ? wrote: ? ?Larry Jaques wrote: ?? ?? Check these out. Maybe you have now! ?? http://tinyurl.com/lffa779 cool white 12v $ (oops, 60cm/2', but $1.75 ?? I'd build or buy new fixtures ? power supplies for that savings. ?? ?? http://tinyurl.com/lj9hd9s pure white 110v (my color choice) $$ ?? Simple replacement bulb. ?? ?? http://tinyurl.com/lky5ozr choose color 110v $$$ but under your limit ?? AHA! 4-footers, love their warning about "ballets" US seller. ?? These would be direct replacement after bypassing the ballast. ?? $32 ($25 apiece in case lot of 100) ?? ?? I don't think these would be as bright as fluors because of the ?? derating, but they'd be nice, long, bright strips. ?? ?? My 20W incan replacement bulb is called a corn light, but uses 104 of ?? the 5050 chips instead of conical plastic coated LEDs. ?? http://tinyurl.com/lhcgzxw It's brighter than a 100W cool white bulb ?? or 25W CFL. ? ? ? Have you seen these 3W LED fixtures? I mounted one form a shelf over ?my computer desk to illuminate the keyboard. I think one will fit un ?place of the light bulb on my drill press, and I plan on installing a ?bunch of them as emergency lighting. Each comes with an AC power ?supply, but they will run on DC. ? ??http://www.ebay.com/itm/110873993773? $4.86 each, free shipping. Eek! ****-colored 3000k light. Also, you'll have to isolate those in the ceiling or they'll suck every ounce of heat out of your house in four minutes flat. More money, but it's a more pure art form for the shop. ?titter? http://tinyurl.com/n3wanz7 Screw a magnet on the back. And wire nut 120V to the loose wires? That thing is ~4" long and 2" diameter. No, you pull the front bezel out and pop a donut in the hole to rim the edge, pull your zip cord through that, and wirenut it inside the can. All I'm after is emergency lighting, and they will not suck out any heat. I was planning on making a long, thin box to mount them down the hallway, and some similar mounts for the rest of the house. I went with inexpensive pullcord globe lamps. They were $4 each and $4 delivery for all, so $28 for 6, delivered. Sucha deal! Pull- switches cost another $4 each and the lamp place cut the holes and installed them at that price, or I would have done it myself, though my Whitney/Roper hand punch doesn't have a die that large. They had a nice little desk-mounted DiAcro punch which worked well. The spots do brighten the bottom of the globe a bit more, but the diffusion is great, so it's hardly noticeable. I was pleased. It makes them better for reading if you sit directly under them, with them mounted on the ceiling. I mounted one surface-style, but will have to go into the attic and drill holes/solder wiring for the rest, preferring that over wire nuts for longevity. That'll probably happen in January, when handyman work is gone for the season. I'm surprisingly busy right now for the first time since I started the business. http://tinyurl.com/lokpctl lamps I wanted point control on lighting so I opted for the pull switches. I may try some of the 48-LED panels in those. Have you seen them? They stay pretty cool, too, and draw 135ma at 12v. I'm really surprised that nobody has boxes or bezels for them yet. They're not quite as bright as the 9W spots, but this is emergency lighting, after all. Dim beats dark by 1000%, and bright draws too much energy. http://tinyurl.com/lmk9ybx The heatsink is almost cold to the touch. It measures less than 6° F rise and has been on for hours. It is 2" from the back of the flange, to the back of the heat sink, so it won't take much space. Nice! The MR-16 style LEDs I bought replace the old halogens and are 2" in diameter, too. Their heatsinks do rise in temp, but won't burn you in the ranges I have: 3, 4, and 9W. The 9W flashlight I made has an (so far) open bulb. I need to clean that up to protect it, but it's sturdy so far. http://tinyurl.com/l75hr6y Just have another of my 3c LED units starting to flash - on it's way out in less than 4 months --- |
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#27
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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That's it. No more fluorescent bulbs.
On Thu, 12 Dec 2013 19:39:13 -0500, wrote:
On Thu, 12 Dec 2013 13:50:15 -0800, mike wrote: On 12/12/2013 9:47 AM, wrote: I bought some LED PAR replacement bulbs and installed them in the porch overhang. Instant on! At 19 degrees F. And the light color is far superior to the old fluorescent bulbs I had in there. And no mercury. I'm dubious about the 22 year lifespan but if they last 5 years I'll be happy. I have 3 8 foot fixtures in the shop with bad ballasts. I'm just gonna pitch the damn fixtures and install LEDs. New ballasts are more expensive and they are a bitch to replace 16 feet inn the air. Just as much work to install new fixtures for new style bulbs. So I'll just put in LEDs and be done with it. I have never been happy with other than incandescent lighting, the color of the light has always been best. But the LEDs finally look great to me. Eric --- This email is free from viruses and malware because avast! Antivirus protection is active. http://www.avast.com I had a nice chat at a garage sale with a guy who'd just installed LED's in his garage. They were very nice. But there were a whole lot of them. He told me the price, but I fainted and can't remember what it was. One of my clients just relamped their entire factory and warehouse with LEDs. Replaced 460 watt halide vapour bulbs with 160 watt LEDs - and it is brighter now than with the ol;d lights - and instant on - no buzzing - about $460 per unit How many units did he install? -- "Owning a sailboat is like marrying a nymphomaniac. You don’t want to do that but it is great if your best friend does. That way you get all the benefits without any of the upkeep" --- This email is free from viruses and malware because avast! Antivirus protection is active. http://www.avast.com |
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#28
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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That's it. No more fluorescent bulbs.
On Thu, 12 Dec 2013 20:53:45 -0800, Larry Jaques
wrote: On Thu, 12 Dec 2013 16:59:37 -0600, Jon Elson wrote: wrote: Just as much work to install new fixtures for new style bulbs. So I'll just put in LEDs and be done with it. I have never been happy with other than incandescent lighting, the color of the light has always been best. But the LEDs finally look great to me. I built my own LED light a year ago for our laundry room/pantry, which had a single recessed bulb that poorly lit the room. I put 10 1 W LEDs on a piece of copper-clad PC board (as a heat sink) and built a DC-DC converter power supply from a National Semi reference circuit for one of their chips. it worked VERY well, and is blazingly bright. It IS a bit harsh-blue, but is fine for that room. Might not be optimum for the living room or kitchen, though. I bought the parts to do a 20-LED string for a tube fluorescent retrofit, but haven't gotten around to it, yet. I picked up a 1 meter long string of LEDs in plastic strip from eBay, including a power supply with 2-prong 120v plug for $7.89 (delivered) a while back. It uses 3528 LEDs. They work well and are cool and inexpensive to run. Love 'em. I'm really sold on LED tech. If the Chinese would get better power supplies in their products, the Europeans and American's would likely -never- sell another one of their extremely high-priced products. At best, some of them are 50x overpriced. It's ridiculous. Im looking to install LED lighting in my sailboats. Any suggestions for best sources/pricing? 1 meter or longer runs. Gunner -- "Owning a sailboat is like marrying a nymphomaniac. You don’t want to do that but it is great if your best friend does. That way you get all the benefits without any of the upkeep" --- This email is free from viruses and malware because avast! Antivirus protection is active. http://www.avast.com |
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#29
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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That's it. No more fluorescent bulbs.
On Sat, 14 Dec 2013 09:37:45 -0500, "Pete C."
wrote: Larry Jaques wrote: On Fri, 13 Dec 2013 11:08:00 -0500, "Pete C." wrote: Larry Jaques wrote: http://tinyurl.com/lky5ozr choose color 110v $$$ but under your limit AHA! 4-footers, love their warning about "ballets" US seller. These would be direct replacement after bypassing the ballast. $32 ($25 apiece in case lot of 100) That looks promising, I ordered one to test. I didn't like the 18W figure at all, so let us know how bright they are. I may go for some of the 2-footers @ $1.75 each. 18W consumption for an LED puts the "incandescent equivalent" at around 50W, so a "fluorescent equivalent" of 32W (same as the T8) or better is reasonable. Like I said, please let me know how it turns out in the real world. I'm skeptical but hopeful. -- And the day came when the risk to remain tight in a bud was more painful than the risk it took to blossom. -- Anaïs Nin |
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#30
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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That's it. No more fluorescent bulbs.
On Sat, 14 Dec 2013 12:37:16 -0800, Gunner Asch
wrote: On Thu, 12 Dec 2013 20:53:45 -0800, Larry Jaques wrote: On Thu, 12 Dec 2013 16:59:37 -0600, Jon Elson wrote: wrote: Just as much work to install new fixtures for new style bulbs. So I'll just put in LEDs and be done with it. I have never been happy with other than incandescent lighting, the color of the light has always been best. But the LEDs finally look great to me. I built my own LED light a year ago for our laundry room/pantry, which had a single recessed bulb that poorly lit the room. I put 10 1 W LEDs on a piece of copper-clad PC board (as a heat sink) and built a DC-DC converter power supply from a National Semi reference circuit for one of their chips. it worked VERY well, and is blazingly bright. It IS a bit harsh-blue, but is fine for that room. Might not be optimum for the living room or kitchen, though. I bought the parts to do a 20-LED string for a tube fluorescent retrofit, but haven't gotten around to it, yet. I picked up a 1 meter long string of LEDs in plastic strip from eBay, including a power supply with 2-prong 120v plug for $7.89 (delivered) a while back. It uses 3528 LEDs. They work well and are cool and inexpensive to run. Love 'em. I'm really sold on LED tech. If the Chinese would get better power supplies in their products, the Europeans and American's would likely -never- sell another one of their extremely high-priced products. At best, some of them are 50x overpriced. It's ridiculous. Im looking to install LED lighting in my sailboats. Any suggestions for best sources/pricing? 1 meter or longer runs. I'm happy with this, but I didn't buy the waterproof style (but did get a 120v p/s) 1M of 3528 chips for undercabinet use. $7.89 when I bought them in June w/ free shipping. http://tinyurl.com/kra9yvz Mine were in a rectangular plastic housing, like a rope light. Another US vendor which has no housing: http://tinyurl.com/mxlpv2f $5.99 delivered for a meter of lights. http://tinyurl.com/ldy6ydt 5M for $13.88, smaller 3528 chips, dimmer 5M of 5050 chips for $19.88, brighter. Free shipping. 10M of 3528s for $15.99, free ship http://tinyurl.com/lmcf6eq Buy a short length of each to see which brightness you need where, then buy long strings of them and go crazy. -- And the day came when the risk to remain tight in a bud was more painful than the risk it took to blossom. -- Anaïs Nin |
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#31
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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That's it. No more fluorescent bulbs.
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#32
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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That's it. No more fluorescent bulbs.
On Sat, 14 Dec 2013 21:17:49 -0800, Larry Jaques
wrote: On Sat, 14 Dec 2013 12:37:16 -0800, Gunner Asch wrote: On Thu, 12 Dec 2013 20:53:45 -0800, Larry Jaques wrote: On Thu, 12 Dec 2013 16:59:37 -0600, Jon Elson wrote: wrote: Just as much work to install new fixtures for new style bulbs. So I'll just put in LEDs and be done with it. I have never been happy with other than incandescent lighting, the color of the light has always been best. But the LEDs finally look great to me. I built my own LED light a year ago for our laundry room/pantry, which had a single recessed bulb that poorly lit the room. I put 10 1 W LEDs on a piece of copper-clad PC board (as a heat sink) and built a DC-DC converter power supply from a National Semi reference circuit for one of their chips. it worked VERY well, and is blazingly bright. It IS a bit harsh-blue, but is fine for that room. Might not be optimum for the living room or kitchen, though. I bought the parts to do a 20-LED string for a tube fluorescent retrofit, but haven't gotten around to it, yet. I picked up a 1 meter long string of LEDs in plastic strip from eBay, including a power supply with 2-prong 120v plug for $7.89 (delivered) a while back. It uses 3528 LEDs. They work well and are cool and inexpensive to run. Love 'em. I'm really sold on LED tech. If the Chinese would get better power supplies in their products, the Europeans and American's would likely -never- sell another one of their extremely high-priced products. At best, some of them are 50x overpriced. It's ridiculous. Im looking to install LED lighting in my sailboats. Any suggestions for best sources/pricing? 1 meter or longer runs. I'm happy with this, but I didn't buy the waterproof style (but did get a 120v p/s) 1M of 3528 chips for undercabinet use. $7.89 when I bought them in June w/ free shipping. http://tinyurl.com/kra9yvz Mine were in a rectangular plastic housing, like a rope light. Another US vendor which has no housing: http://tinyurl.com/mxlpv2f $5.99 delivered for a meter of lights. http://tinyurl.com/ldy6ydt 5M for $13.88, smaller 3528 chips, dimmer 5M of 5050 chips for $19.88, brighter. Free shipping. 10M of 3528s for $15.99, free ship http://tinyurl.com/lmcf6eq Buy a short length of each to see which brightness you need where, then buy long strings of them and go crazy. I dont need any waterproof styles..I just need some that will provide decent lighting and any heat wont damage the fiberglass they are attached to. This can be done with Epoxy or a heat gun, right? -- "Owning a sailboat is like marrying a nymphomaniac. You don’t want to do that but it is great if your best friend does. That way you get all the benefits without any of the upkeep" --- This email is free from viruses and malware because avast! Antivirus protection is active. http://www.avast.com |
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#33
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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That's it. No more fluorescent bulbs.
On Sun, 15 Dec 2013 00:45:56 -0800, Gunner Asch
wrote: On Sat, 14 Dec 2013 21:17:49 -0800, Larry Jaques wrote: On Sat, 14 Dec 2013 12:37:16 -0800, Gunner Asch wrote: On Thu, 12 Dec 2013 20:53:45 -0800, Larry Jaques wrote: On Thu, 12 Dec 2013 16:59:37 -0600, Jon Elson wrote: wrote: Just as much work to install new fixtures for new style bulbs. So I'll just put in LEDs and be done with it. I have never been happy with other than incandescent lighting, the color of the light has always been best. But the LEDs finally look great to me. I built my own LED light a year ago for our laundry room/pantry, which had a single recessed bulb that poorly lit the room. I put 10 1 W LEDs on a piece of copper-clad PC board (as a heat sink) and built a DC-DC converter power supply from a National Semi reference circuit for one of their chips. it worked VERY well, and is blazingly bright. It IS a bit harsh-blue, but is fine for that room. Might not be optimum for the living room or kitchen, though. I bought the parts to do a 20-LED string for a tube fluorescent retrofit, but haven't gotten around to it, yet. I picked up a 1 meter long string of LEDs in plastic strip from eBay, including a power supply with 2-prong 120v plug for $7.89 (delivered) a while back. It uses 3528 LEDs. They work well and are cool and inexpensive to run. Love 'em. I'm really sold on LED tech. If the Chinese would get better power supplies in their products, the Europeans and American's would likely -never- sell another one of their extremely high-priced products. At best, some of them are 50x overpriced. It's ridiculous. Im looking to install LED lighting in my sailboats. Any suggestions for best sources/pricing? 1 meter or longer runs. I'm happy with this, but I didn't buy the waterproof style (but did get a 120v p/s) 1M of 3528 chips for undercabinet use. $7.89 when I bought them in June w/ free shipping. http://tinyurl.com/kra9yvz Mine were in a rectangular plastic housing, like a rope light. Another US vendor which has no housing: http://tinyurl.com/mxlpv2f $5.99 delivered for a meter of lights. http://tinyurl.com/ldy6ydt 5M for $13.88, smaller 3528 chips, dimmer 5M of 5050 chips for $19.88, brighter. Free shipping. 10M of 3528s for $15.99, free ship http://tinyurl.com/lmcf6eq Buy a short length of each to see which brightness you need where, then buy long strings of them and go crazy. I dont need any waterproof styles..I just need some that will provide decent lighting and any heat wont damage the fiberglass they are attached to. This can be done with Epoxy or a heat gun, right? I re-did my 40 ft. sloop with LED strips - epoxy circuit board stock in about 30 in. lengths with a single row of LED. 12 VDC straight off the battery bank. I used a couple of little high intensity LED bulbs that fit a two pin fixture for me and Mother's reading lights. I left the compass light and the navigation lights as they were because I couldn't get an LED to fit the binnacle and at that time LED navigation light bulbs were pretty expensive. Oh yes, and a 12 volt florescent light over the Head mirror . The strips were epoxy glued to a strip of hard wood and the hard wood screwed to the overhead. There was no heat problems whatsoever. We were living aboard and had an electric fridge and the change to LED's changed my battery charging schedule from once a day to once in two days with a pretty old battery bank. -- Cheers, John B. |
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#34
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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That's it. No more fluorescent bulbs.
On Sun, 15 Dec 2013 00:45:56 -0800, Gunner Asch
wrote: On Sat, 14 Dec 2013 21:17:49 -0800, Larry Jaques wrote: On Sat, 14 Dec 2013 12:37:16 -0800, Gunner Asch wrote: On Thu, 12 Dec 2013 20:53:45 -0800, Larry Jaques wrote: On Thu, 12 Dec 2013 16:59:37 -0600, Jon Elson wrote: wrote: Just as much work to install new fixtures for new style bulbs. So I'll just put in LEDs and be done with it. I have never been happy with other than incandescent lighting, the color of the light has always been best. But the LEDs finally look great to me. I built my own LED light a year ago for our laundry room/pantry, which had a single recessed bulb that poorly lit the room. I put 10 1 W LEDs on a piece of copper-clad PC board (as a heat sink) and built a DC-DC converter power supply from a National Semi reference circuit for one of their chips. it worked VERY well, and is blazingly bright. It IS a bit harsh-blue, but is fine for that room. Might not be optimum for the living room or kitchen, though. I bought the parts to do a 20-LED string for a tube fluorescent retrofit, but haven't gotten around to it, yet. I picked up a 1 meter long string of LEDs in plastic strip from eBay, including a power supply with 2-prong 120v plug for $7.89 (delivered) a while back. It uses 3528 LEDs. They work well and are cool and inexpensive to run. Love 'em. I'm really sold on LED tech. If the Chinese would get better power supplies in their products, the Europeans and American's would likely -never- sell another one of their extremely high-priced products. At best, some of them are 50x overpriced. It's ridiculous. Im looking to install LED lighting in my sailboats. Any suggestions for best sources/pricing? 1 meter or longer runs. I'm happy with this, but I didn't buy the waterproof style (but did get a 120v p/s) 1M of 3528 chips for undercabinet use. $7.89 when I bought them in June w/ free shipping. http://tinyurl.com/kra9yvz Mine were in a rectangular plastic housing, like a rope light. Another US vendor which has no housing: http://tinyurl.com/mxlpv2f $5.99 delivered for a meter of lights. http://tinyurl.com/ldy6ydt 5M for $13.88, smaller 3528 chips, dimmer 5M of 5050 chips for $19.88, brighter. Free shipping. 10M of 3528s for $15.99, free ship http://tinyurl.com/lmcf6eq Buy a short length of each to see which brightness you need where, then buy long strings of them and go crazy. I dont need any waterproof styles..I just need some that will provide decent lighting and any heat wont damage the fiberglass they are attached to. This can be done with Epoxy or a heat gun, right? In a humid enviro like a boat (when on water, not when stored in the desert), I'd opt for the waterproofing since it's just a few bucks more. It's just a line of clear RTV. Some of that tape comes with 3M (real or fake, I don't know, but my 48-LED units had the 3M logo paper on it) adhesive doublesided tape on the back. AAMOF, those are inexpensive and handy to stick up, too. http://tinyurl.com/lb93x35 Do people -really- use heat guns to semi-permanently adhere things? It wouldn't be my first or fifth choice. shrug I'm a real fan of indirect lighting, so I'd put it on the bottomside of the cabs you build, etc. Or hide them behind a short wooden bat on the ceiling/deck. -- I merely took the energy it takes to pout and wrote some blues. --Duke Ellington |
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#35
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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That's it. No more fluorescent bulbs.
Larry Jaques wrote: On Sat, 14 Dec 2013 09:37:45 -0500, "Pete C." wrote: Larry Jaques wrote: On Fri, 13 Dec 2013 11:08:00 -0500, "Pete C." wrote: Larry Jaques wrote: http://tinyurl.com/lky5ozr choose color 110v $$$ but under your limit AHA! 4-footers, love their warning about "ballets" US seller. These would be direct replacement after bypassing the ballast. $32 ($25 apiece in case lot of 100) That looks promising, I ordered one to test. I didn't like the 18W figure at all, so let us know how bright they are. I may go for some of the 2-footers @ $1.75 each. 18W consumption for an LED puts the "incandescent equivalent" at around 50W, so a "fluorescent equivalent" of 32W (same as the T8) or better is reasonable. Like I said, please let me know how it turns out in the real world. I'm skeptical but hopeful. Yep, I should have a report in a couple weeks. Shipping will probably be a bit slow with the combination of holiday and weather even though it's not coming that far. |
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#36
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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That's it. No more fluorescent bulbs.
Larry Jaques wrote: On Sat, 14 Dec 2013 12:26:01 -0500, wrote: Just have another of my 3c LED units starting to flash - on it's way out in less than 4 months --- Poor clare. You just buy from the wrong cheap Chiwanese dealer.  Look for epistar or cree electronics. They seem to be better.P.S: Whassa "3c LED unit"? 3° C Maximum operating temperature? ;-) -- Anyone wanting to run for any political office in the US should have to have a DD214, and a honorable discharge. |
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#37
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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That's it. No more fluorescent bulbs.
On Sat, 14 Dec 2013 21:20:46 -0800, Larry Jaques
wrote: On Sat, 14 Dec 2013 12:26:01 -0500, wrote: Just have another of my 3c LED units starting to flash - on it's way out in less than 4 months --- Poor clare. You just buy from the wrong cheap Chiwanese dealer. Look for epistar or cree electronics. They seem to be better.P.S: Whassa "3c LED unit"? Mine are Cree - and 3c means "Cheap Chinese Crap". I have purchaces from 2 or 4 different online dealers - the lamps are obviously from at least 2 different "factories" and there has been very little difference between them. About 220 of them 12 volt, andabout 30 120 volt. Some with 3 3 watt crees and some with 4. |
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#38
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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That's it. No more fluorescent bulbs.
On Sun, 15 Dec 2013 16:18:56 -0500, wrote:
On Sat, 14 Dec 2013 21:20:46 -0800, Larry Jaques wrote: On Sat, 14 Dec 2013 12:26:01 -0500, wrote: Just have another of my 3c LED units starting to flash - on it's way out in less than 4 months --- Poor clare. You just buy from the wrong cheap Chiwanese dealer. Look for epistar or cree electronics. They seem to be better.P.S: Whassa "3c LED unit"? Mine are Cree - and 3c means "Cheap Chinese Crap". I'da used "C3" or "CCC", ah reckon. But whatever. I have purchaces from 2 or 4 different online dealers - the lamps are obviously from at least 2 different "factories" and there has been very little difference between them. About 220 of them 12 volt, andabout 30 120 volt. What bases? E14, E27, MR16, GU10? I picked up several different adaptors to be able to play all bases. Some with 3 3 watt crees and some with 4. OK, then look for Epistar next time. g -- I merely took the energy it takes to pout and wrote some blues. --Duke Ellington |
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#39
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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That's it. No more fluorescent bulbs.
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#40
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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That's it. No more fluorescent bulbs.
Larry Jaques writes:
I accidentally bought a dozen E27-based 6W bulbs which use 3528 LED chips. I didn't pay enough attention so I got -220v- bulbs. They're about 1/3 the brightness at 120v. I'll sell all twelve of them to any of the resident Canucks for $30 plus actual shipping. Ping me offline. You could find a surplus transformer with 120 & 240V taps cheap. Or just run them off 208/240. -- A host is a host from coast to & no one will talk to a host that's close........[v].(301) 56-LINUX Unless the host (that isn't close).........................pob 1433 is busy, hung or dead....................................20915-1433 |
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