Lamps usually have a maximum allowed watt light that may be used in them
(many have a 60 or 100 watt limit). If you are converting to compact
fluorescent bulbs, which limit value do you use? The equivalent light output
or the wattage that the bulb uses? If rated at 60 watts how big a compact
fluorescent can you use?

In article 6ad15f757f749@uwe, Michael_S u30266@uwe wrote:
Lamps usually have a maximum allowed watt light that may be used in them
(many have a 60 or 100 watt limit). If you are converting to compact
fluorescent bulbs, which limit value do you use? The equivalent light output
or the wattage that the bulb uses?

The wattage. The limits are just to make make sure you don't exceed
the current the lamp's internal wires are designed for, or possibly
the amount of heat the lamp or fixture can dissipate.

If rated at 60 watts how big a compact fluorescent can you use?

Probably way larger than you'll be able to buy. A 60 watt CF would be
comparable to a ~240W incandescent. I'm not sure anyone sells CFs
that large.
--
Jim Prescott - Computing and Networking Group
School of Engineering and Applied Sciences, University of Rochester, NY

"Michael_S" u30266@uwe writes:

Lamps usually have a maximum allowed watt light that may be used in them
(many have a 60 or 100 watt limit). If you are converting to compact
fluorescent bulbs, which limit value do you use? The equivalent light output
or the wattage that the bulb uses? If rated at 60 watts how big a compact
fluorescent can you use?

The limit is the actual wattage, but if your lamps and light fixtures
are anything like mine, the real limit is that the higher-output bulbs
are too large physically to fit. E.g., I found that the 18-watt CF
bulbs that are supposed to be equivalent to 75-watt incandescent bulbs
were too big to fit in some of my fixtures, but the 13-watt
actual/60-watt equivalent size fit fine. The 100-watt-equivalent CF
bulbs are even larger, and an actual 100-watt CF bulb would be
gigantic!

-Sandra

"Michael_S" u30266@uwe writes:

Lamps usually have a maximum allowed watt light that may be used in them
(many have a 60 or 100 watt limit). If you are converting to compact
fluorescent bulbs, which limit value do you use? The equivalent light output
or the wattage that the bulb uses? If rated at 60 watts how big a compact
fluorescent can you use?

Generally speaking, those ratings are reflective of the electrical
capacity of the fixture and its ability to tolerate heat. As such,
look to the elctrical rating, not light output. i.e. You should be
able to use on hella big CF in there.

However, I have seen on CF boxes that they're not to be used in
enclosed fixtures. I'm not sure of the specific "why" on that, so be
sure to heed that as applicable.

Best Regards,
--
Todd H.
http://www.toddh.net/

This applies to screw-in base type compact fluorescents (CFs.) Fixtures
built for fluorescents avoid most these issues, or at least deal with
them better.

1. The fixture rating is for electrical and heat reasons. The CF will
be far cooler for the same power. You still shouldn't overload the
wires, but probably can't.

2. Size is major factor. If it fits you're probably OK. Brighter CFs
will almost always have more surface area. Typically only the 60W
replacements are the same size as a basic incandescent bulb.

3. Enclosed fixtures will trap heat and ballasts don't like heat! Try
not to put CFs upside down, unless rated for it. The heat goes right to
the electronics.

4. Use only reflector CFs to replace "R" lamps in recessed lights.
Because the light is generated at the surface of a CF, reflectors are
problematic. Very few reflectors designed for incandescents work well
with CFs.

5. Don't use CFs where you look directly at the lamp. The surface
brightness of most CF's is around the level that can be damaging to the
eyes.

6. Don't switch them on & off quickly. The actual trade off point is
now (very approximately) 5 minutes. But, the longer they burn each time
(on average,) the more you save.

7. Don't use a dimmer unless the CF is rated for it, then most dimmers
will work.

The worst thing you can do is to put a long CF, upside down in a
recessed can so that it sticks out where you can't avoid looking at it.
It hurts, doesn't light well and burns out way too soon.

The best uses are table lamps (replacement harps can help accommodate
large CFs,) and outdoor fixtures. (You can use very small amounts of
light out doors. I have 7W "flame shape" CFs in my outdoor lanterns.)
In these cases, they can be indistiquishable from incandescents and
save lots of money for years at a time.

Richard Reid, LC
Luminous Views


Todd H. wrote:
"Michael_S" u30266@uwe writes:

Lamps usually have a maximum allowed watt light that may be used in them
(many have a 60 or 100 watt limit). If you are converting to compact
fluorescent bulbs, which limit value do you use? The equivalent light output
or the wattage that the bulb uses? If rated at 60 watts how big a compact
fluorescent can you use?

Generally speaking, those ratings are reflective of the electrical
capacity of the fixture and its ability to tolerate heat. As such,
look to the elctrical rating, not light output. i.e. You should be
able to use on hella big CF in there.

However, I have seen on CF boxes that they're not to be used in
enclosed fixtures. I'm not sure of the specific "why" on that, so be
sure to heed that as applicable.

Best Regards,
--
Todd H.
http://www.toddh.net/

"RickR" wrote in
ps.com:


The worst thing you can do is to put a long CF, upside down in a
recessed can so that it sticks out where you can't avoid looking at
it. It hurts, doesn't light well and burns out way too soon.

I have some in recessed- but not IC - cans. I have recessed lighting in
the kitchen and great room that is on pretty much constantly.

I get about the regular projected life out of them; whatever it says on the
box. I write the date I install it and the fixture number (cue the OCD
rant about numbering my fixtures...)

The burnout issue seems to be with IC cans. I can't install them in an IC
fixture without having them burn out in a month or so before I got smart
and figured out what was happening.

--
Mit der Dummheit kämpfen Götter selbst vergebens.

There is so much variation in cans, CFs & homes that absolutes are
rare. I'm glad you found a solution that works. Are they reflector CFs
or omindirectional?

I trust your CFs are not hanging out below the ceiling and so bright as
to be painful, yet provide enough to let you work. ;-)

Richard Reid, LC

Rich wrote:
"RickR" wrote in
ps.com:


The worst thing you can do is to put a long CF, upside down in a
recessed can so that it sticks out where you can't avoid looking at
it. It hurts, doesn't light well and burns out way too soon.

I have some in recessed- but not IC - cans. I have recessed lighting in
the kitchen and great room that is on pretty much constantly.

I get about the regular projected life out of them; whatever it says on the
box. I write the date I install it and the fixture number (cue the OCD
rant about numbering my fixtures...)

The burnout issue seems to be with IC cans. I can't install them in an IC
fixture without having them burn out in a month or so before I got smart
and figured out what was happening.

--
Mit der Dummheit kämpfen Götter selbst vergebens.

"RickR" wrote in
ps.com:

There is so much variation in cans, CFs & homes that absolutes are
rare. I'm glad you found a solution that works. Are they reflector CFs
or omindirectional?

I b'lieve they're reflectors.

I trust your CFs are not hanging out below the ceiling and so bright
as to be painful, yet provide enough to let you work. ;-)

They achieve full brightness in about 15 or 20 minutes. The light is
bright in the kitchen, as it should be when you're doing food prep. And
they fit just the same way the regular or halogen incandescents fit, no
ugly protrusions.

--
Mit der Dummheit kämpfen Götter selbst vergebens.