I finally got around and re-adjusted the clutch on the Clausing 6913
lathe. (13x48). The clutch was previously slipping and I could only
make the lightest of cuts.

Now, the clutch no longer slips when engaged, and can still be
disengaged, and I can take much heavier cuts. And what I like the most
is that I can again use power feed.

The problem I had with one piece of metal, is that when I cut it with
power feed and a carbide insert, it would make an endless chip, that
warps and gets everywhere, and it seems to be unsafe. How can I ensure
that this chip breaks?

i

Ignoramus12664 fired this volley in
:

How can I ensure
that this chip breaks?


Use a cutter with a chipbreaker groove. "Stringy" chips ARE dangerous,
and pretty easily avoided.

They're not only dangerous when flying around the chuck, but also to the
operator who has to clean up afterwards.

Lloyd

On Sat, 18 May 2013 20:38:30 -0500, Ignoramus12664
wrote:

I finally got around and re-adjusted the clutch on the Clausing 6913
lathe. (13x48). The clutch was previously slipping and I could only
make the lightest of cuts.

Now, the clutch no longer slips when engaged, and can still be
disengaged, and I can take much heavier cuts. And what I like the most
is that I can again use power feed.

The problem I had with one piece of metal, is that when I cut it with
power feed and a carbide insert, it would make an endless chip, that
warps and gets everywhere, and it seems to be unsafe. How can I ensure
that this chip breaks?

i

1. Buy inserts with a built in "chip breaker"

2. Buy tool holders with an external chip breaker.

http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=9&ved=0CFUQ FjAI&url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.kennametal.com%2Fcontent %2Fdam%2Fkennametal%2Fkennametal%2Fcommon%2FResour ces%2FTechnical%2520Tips%2FTurning%2FTechTip_138_C hoosing_correct_chipbreaker.pdf

http://www.toolingu.com/definition-2...ipbreaker.html

http://www.practicalmachinist.com/vb...reaker-219269/

etc etc

With the proper grind/chip breaker..your chips will come off the
cutter in the shape of the # 9

And yes indeed...while pretty..they are unsafe as hell. Depending on
the thickness and the metals...they can pull you into your lathe and
sever limbs/fingers etc etc

Gunner


--
"You guess the truth hurts?

Really?

"Hurt" aint the word.

For Liberals, the truth is like salt to a slug.
Sunlight to a vampire.
Raid® to a cockroach.
Sheriff Brody to a shark
Bush to a Liberal

The truth doesn't just hurt. It's painful, like a red hot poker shoved
up their ass. Like sliding down a hundred foot razor blade using their
dick as a brake.

They HATE the truth."

"Ignoramus12664" wrote in message
...
I finally got around and re-adjusted the clutch on the Clausing 6913
lathe. (13x48). The clutch was previously slipping and I could only
make the lightest of cuts.

Now, the clutch no longer slips when engaged, and can still be
disengaged, and I can take much heavier cuts. And what I like the most
is that I can again use power feed.

The problem I had with one piece of metal, is that when I cut it with
power feed and a carbide insert, it would make an endless chip, that
warps and gets everywhere, and it seems to be unsafe. How can I ensure
that this chip breaks?

i


Chip breakers rely on a given amount of feed in order to function properly.
Rule of thumb is to increase feed when a chip doesn't break.
Do not expect a chip breaker to function with light feeds, or shallow depths
of cut.

Harold

Ignoramus12664 on Sat, 18 May
2013 20:38:30 -0500 typed in rec.crafts.metalworking the following:
I finally got around and re-adjusted the clutch on the Clausing 6913
lathe. (13x48). The clutch was previously slipping and I could only
make the lightest of cuts.

Now, the clutch no longer slips when engaged, and can still be
disengaged, and I can take much heavier cuts. And what I like the most
is that I can again use power feed.

The problem I had with one piece of metal, is that when I cut it with
power feed and a carbide insert, it would make an endless chip, that
warps and gets everywhere, and it seems to be unsafe. How can I ensure
that this chip breaks?

Get a chip breaker - it either is a configuration "built" into the
index, or is an additional "fiddly bit" on plain inserts.

Long "chips" are bad news. Even if they don't snag you - well,
the rule for getting them out of the way is "don't!" Use pliers or a
tool - dat stuff will cut gloves real fast, too.
While it is true that if you have found one end of such a chip,
there is ha high probability that there is another end; otoh, there is
no promise that you can pull it loose unless you can actually _see_
the other end.
Of course, that assumes that you are not grabbing it while the
machine is turning.

tschus
pyotr


OT3H, have friends who claimed they got everything so dialed in, the
chip went up, over and into a bin. No clean up needed.
--
pyotr filipivich
"With Age comes Wisdom. Although more often, Age travels alone."

"Ignoramus12664" wrote in message
...

I finally got around and re-adjusted the clutch on the Clausing 6913
lathe. (13x48). The clutch was previously slipping and I could only
make the lightest of cuts.

Now, the clutch no longer slips when engaged, and can still be
disengaged, and I can take much heavier cuts. And what I like the most
is that I can again use power feed.

The problem I had with one piece of metal, is that when I cut it with
power feed and a carbide insert, it would make an endless chip, that
warps and gets everywhere, and it seems to be unsafe. How can I ensure
that this chip breaks?

i

My experience agrees with Harold's response. I had long chips even with a
chip breaker, I increased the feed per revolution, the chips broke, IIRC I
was feeding over 0.010" per revolution, maybe closer to 0.020". I had short
blue chips and the finish looked good.

RogerN

On Sat, 18 May 2013 20:38:30 -0500, Ignoramus12664
wrote:

I finally got around and re-adjusted the clutch on the Clausing 6913
lathe. (13x48). The clutch was previously slipping and I could only
make the lightest of cuts.

Now, the clutch no longer slips when engaged, and can still be
disengaged, and I can take much heavier cuts. And what I like the most
is that I can again use power feed.

The problem I had with one piece of metal, is that when I cut it with
power feed and a carbide insert, it would make an endless chip, that
warps and gets everywhere, and it seems to be unsafe. How can I ensure
that this chip breaks?

i

Err... Iggy, you need to read up on "Chip Breakers" as applied to
lathe tools.

But I confess that the first time I did any extensive stainless
turning I did the same thing - ran off a 12 ft., light brown, chip
before I could get at the Big Red Button :-)
An old boy named Smith wandered over and commented, "Looks as though
you might need to grind a chip breaker on that tool", and than showed
me how to grind one :-)
--
Cheers,

John B.

On Sun, 19 May 2013 05:12:13 GMT, "Harold & Susan Vordos"
wrote:


"Ignoramus12664" wrote in message
...
I finally got around and re-adjusted the clutch on the Clausing 6913
lathe. (13x48). The clutch was previously slipping and I could only
make the lightest of cuts.

Now, the clutch no longer slips when engaged, and can still be
disengaged, and I can take much heavier cuts. And what I like the most
is that I can again use power feed.

The problem I had with one piece of metal, is that when I cut it with
power feed and a carbide insert, it would make an endless chip, that
warps and gets everywhere, and it seems to be unsafe. How can I ensure
that this chip breaks?

i


Chip breakers rely on a given amount of feed in order to function properly.
Rule of thumb is to increase feed when a chip doesn't break.
Do not expect a chip breaker to function with light feeds, or shallow depths
of cut.

Harold

Good points. And sometimes, don't expect them to work at all.

If Iggy is dealing with some nickel alloy (like stainless), a higher
feedrate will work-harden the chip and help it break. If it's some
dead-soft low-carbon steel, maybe, maybe not.

--
Ed Huntress

"Ignoramus12664" wrote in message
...
I finally got around and re-adjusted the clutch on the Clausing 6913
lathe. (13x48). The clutch was previously slipping and I could only
make the lightest of cuts.

Now, the clutch no longer slips when engaged, and can still be
disengaged, and I can take much heavier cuts. And what I like the most
is that I can again use power feed.

The problem I had with one piece of metal, is that when I cut it with
power feed and a carbide insert, it would make an endless chip, that
warps and gets everywhere, and it seems to be unsafe. How can I ensure
that this chip breaks?


Buy a ****ing clue.

On 2013-05-19, Ed Huntress wrote:
On Sun, 19 May 2013 05:12:13 GMT, "Harold & Susan Vordos"
wrote:


"Ignoramus12664" wrote in message
...
I finally got around and re-adjusted the clutch on the Clausing 6913
lathe. (13x48). The clutch was previously slipping and I could only
make the lightest of cuts.

Now, the clutch no longer slips when engaged, and can still be
disengaged, and I can take much heavier cuts. And what I like the most
is that I can again use power feed.

The problem I had with one piece of metal, is that when I cut it with
power feed and a carbide insert, it would make an endless chip, that
warps and gets everywhere, and it seems to be unsafe. How can I ensure
that this chip breaks?

i


Chip breakers rely on a given amount of feed in order to function properly.
Rule of thumb is to increase feed when a chip doesn't break.
Do not expect a chip breaker to function with light feeds, or shallow depths
of cut.

Harold

Good points. And sometimes, don't expect them to work at all.

If Iggy is dealing with some nickel alloy (like stainless), a higher
feedrate will work-harden the chip and help it break. If it's some
dead-soft low-carbon steel, maybe, maybe not.


Just low carbon steel in this instance.

i

On 2013-05-19, RogerN wrote:
"Ignoramus12664" wrote in message
...

I finally got around and re-adjusted the clutch on the Clausing 6913
lathe. (13x48). The clutch was previously slipping and I could only
make the lightest of cuts.

Now, the clutch no longer slips when engaged, and can still be
disengaged, and I can take much heavier cuts. And what I like the most
is that I can again use power feed.

The problem I had with one piece of metal, is that when I cut it with
power feed and a carbide insert, it would make an endless chip, that
warps and gets everywhere, and it seems to be unsafe. How can I ensure
that this chip breaks?

i

My experience agrees with Harold's response. I had long chips even with a
chip breaker, I increased the feed per revolution, the chips broke, IIRC I
was feeding over 0.010" per revolution, maybe closer to 0.020". I had short
blue chips and the finish looked good.

OK, I will try that, but I did not want to puch my lathe too hard.

i

On Sun, 19 May 2013 10:19:12 -0500, Ignoramus17710
wrote:

On 2013-05-19, Ed Huntress wrote:
On Sun, 19 May 2013 05:12:13 GMT, "Harold & Susan Vordos"
wrote:


"Ignoramus12664" wrote in message
...
I finally got around and re-adjusted the clutch on the Clausing 6913
lathe. (13x48). The clutch was previously slipping and I could only
make the lightest of cuts.

Now, the clutch no longer slips when engaged, and can still be
disengaged, and I can take much heavier cuts. And what I like the most
is that I can again use power feed.

The problem I had with one piece of metal, is that when I cut it with
power feed and a carbide insert, it would make an endless chip, that
warps and gets everywhere, and it seems to be unsafe. How can I ensure
that this chip breaks?

i


Chip breakers rely on a given amount of feed in order to function properly.
Rule of thumb is to increase feed when a chip doesn't break.
Do not expect a chip breaker to function with light feeds, or shallow depths
of cut.

Harold

Good points. And sometimes, don't expect them to work at all.

If Iggy is dealing with some nickel alloy (like stainless), a higher
feedrate will work-harden the chip and help it break. If it's some
dead-soft low-carbon steel, maybe, maybe not.


Just low carbon steel in this instance.

i

Aggressive feed and good chip breakers should do it. If not, that's
life. g

Low carbon steel should break from compression failure (you'd need a
video to see it). But you need enough feed to "crumple" the chip in
compression. You'll recognize it when you see it.

--
Ed Huntress

Ed Huntress fired this volley in
:

But you need enough feed to "crumple" the chip in
compression. You'll recognize it when you see it.


Ig,
I might add after your last comment about "not pushing your lathe too
hard", that they're designed for that. Don't baby it, or you'll just
wear out tooling and patience prematurely. Time (your time and your
employees') is money.

There's nothin' wrong with smokin' blue chips once in a while.

Lloyd

"Lloyd E. Sponenburgh" lloydspinsidemindspring.com fired this volley in
. 3.70:

There's nothin' wrong with smokin' blue chips once in a while.

But I might also add, that ties in with your question about coolant.
You want the chips hot, but not the body of the work.

Lloyd

On Sun, 19 May 2013 01:19:19 -0500, "RogerN"
wrote:

"Ignoramus12664" wrote in message
...

I finally got around and re-adjusted the clutch on the Clausing 6913
lathe. (13x48). The clutch was previously slipping and I could only
make the lightest of cuts.

Now, the clutch no longer slips when engaged, and can still be
disengaged, and I can take much heavier cuts. And what I like the most
is that I can again use power feed.

The problem I had with one piece of metal, is that when I cut it with
power feed and a carbide insert, it would make an endless chip, that
warps and gets everywhere, and it seems to be unsafe. How can I ensure
that this chip breaks?

i

My experience agrees with Harold's response. I had long chips even with a
chip breaker, I increased the feed per revolution, the chips broke, IIRC I
was feeding over 0.010" per revolution, maybe closer to 0.020". I had short
blue chips and the finish looked good.

RogerN


I often use HSS or brazed carbide with no chipbreaker. And slow feeds
so it wouldn't help anyway. Hope nobody cringes but I use a
screwdriver to pull out nests as it runs. I have had the screwdriver
snatched out of my hands and rapidly tossed accross the room more than
once.

I do use carbide inserts for heavy ruffing cuts and get it to run "9"
shape chips.

Karl

On 2013-05-19, Karl Townsend wrote:
On Sun, 19 May 2013 01:19:19 -0500, "RogerN"
wrote:

"Ignoramus12664" wrote in message
...

I finally got around and re-adjusted the clutch on the Clausing 6913
lathe. (13x48). The clutch was previously slipping and I could only
make the lightest of cuts.

Now, the clutch no longer slips when engaged, and can still be
disengaged, and I can take much heavier cuts. And what I like the most
is that I can again use power feed.

The problem I had with one piece of metal, is that when I cut it with
power feed and a carbide insert, it would make an endless chip, that
warps and gets everywhere, and it seems to be unsafe. How can I ensure
that this chip breaks?

i

My experience agrees with Harold's response. I had long chips even with a
chip breaker, I increased the feed per revolution, the chips broke, IIRC I
was feeding over 0.010" per revolution, maybe closer to 0.020". I had short
blue chips and the finish looked good.

RogerN


I often use HSS or brazed carbide with no chipbreaker. And slow feeds
so it wouldn't help anyway. Hope nobody cringes but I use a
screwdriver to pull out nests as it runs. I have had the screwdriver
snatched out of my hands and rapidly tossed accross the room more than
once.

I do use carbide inserts for heavy ruffing cuts and get it to run "9"
shape chips.

Karl


i hate to admit to the same thing

On Sun, 19 May 2013 12:58:50 -0500, "Lloyd E. Sponenburgh"
lloydspinsidemindspring.com wrote:

Ed Huntress fired this volley in
:

But you need enough feed to "crumple" the chip in
compression. You'll recognize it when you see it.


Ig,
I might add after your last comment about "not pushing your lathe too
hard", that they're designed for that. Don't baby it, or you'll just
wear out tooling and patience prematurely. Time (your time and your
employees') is money.

There's nothin' wrong with smokin' blue chips once in a while.

Lloyd

Very well said!!


--
"You guess the truth hurts?

Really?

"Hurt" aint the word.

For Liberals, the truth is like salt to a slug.
Sunlight to a vampire.
Raid® to a cockroach.
Sheriff Brody to a shark
Bush to a Liberal

The truth doesn't just hurt. It's painful, like a red hot poker shoved
up their ass. Like sliding down a hundred foot razor blade using their
dick as a brake.

They HATE the truth."

On Sun, 19 May 2013 13:20:50 -0500, Ignoramus17710
wrote:

On 2013-05-19, Karl Townsend wrote:
On Sun, 19 May 2013 01:19:19 -0500, "RogerN"
wrote:

"Ignoramus12664" wrote in message
...

I finally got around and re-adjusted the clutch on the Clausing 6913
lathe. (13x48). The clutch was previously slipping and I could only
make the lightest of cuts.

Now, the clutch no longer slips when engaged, and can still be
disengaged, and I can take much heavier cuts. And what I like the most
is that I can again use power feed.

The problem I had with one piece of metal, is that when I cut it with
power feed and a carbide insert, it would make an endless chip, that
warps and gets everywhere, and it seems to be unsafe. How can I ensure
that this chip breaks?

i

My experience agrees with Harold's response. I had long chips even with a
chip breaker, I increased the feed per revolution, the chips broke, IIRC I
was feeding over 0.010" per revolution, maybe closer to 0.020". I had short
blue chips and the finish looked good.

RogerN


I often use HSS or brazed carbide with no chipbreaker. And slow feeds
so it wouldn't help anyway. Hope nobody cringes but I use a
screwdriver to pull out nests as it runs. I have had the screwdriver
snatched out of my hands and rapidly tossed accross the room more than
once.

I do use carbide inserts for heavy ruffing cuts and get it to run "9"
shape chips.

Karl


i hate to admit to the same thing

I use a bit of rod with an L bent into one end..and a 18" length.
Takes longer to pull me into the work.


--
"You guess the truth hurts?

Really?

"Hurt" aint the word.

For Liberals, the truth is like salt to a slug.
Sunlight to a vampire.
Raid® to a cockroach.
Sheriff Brody to a shark
Bush to a Liberal

The truth doesn't just hurt. It's painful, like a red hot poker shoved
up their ass. Like sliding down a hundred foot razor blade using their
dick as a brake.

They HATE the truth."

In article ,
Ignoramus17710 wrote:

On 2013-05-19, Karl Townsend wrote:
On Sun, 19 May 2013 01:19:19 -0500, "RogerN"
wrote:

"Ignoramus12664" wrote in message
...

I finally got around and re-adjusted the clutch on the Clausing 6913
lathe. (13x48). The clutch was previously slipping and I could only
make the lightest of cuts.

Now, the clutch no longer slips when engaged, and can still be
disengaged, and I can take much heavier cuts. And what I like the most
is that I can again use power feed.

The problem I had with one piece of metal, is that when I cut it with
power feed and a carbide insert, it would make an endless chip, that
warps and gets everywhere, and it seems to be unsafe. How can I ensure
that this chip breaks?

i

My experience agrees with Harold's response. I had long chips even with a
chip breaker, I increased the feed per revolution, the chips broke, IIRC I
was feeding over 0.010" per revolution, maybe closer to 0.020". I had
short
blue chips and the finish looked good.

RogerN


I often use HSS or brazed carbide with no chipbreaker. And slow feeds
so it wouldn't help anyway. Hope nobody cringes but I use a
screwdriver to pull out nests as it runs. I have had the screwdriver
snatched out of my hands and rapidly tossed accross the room more than
once.

I do use carbide inserts for heavy ruffing cuts and get it to run "9"
shape chips.

Karl


i hate to admit to the same thing

I use a thin sheet metal chip hook that's made for the purpose. It has
been snatched from my hand, but doesn't weigh much.

I got it from Enco or MSC, and it's marked "Waco Products" on the
plastic handle. The blade is a flat blue spring steel strip with a
hook punched in one end.

Joe Gwinn

On 2013-05-19, Lloyd E. Sponenburgh lloydspinsidemindspring.com wrote:
"Lloyd E. Sponenburgh" lloydspinsidemindspring.com fired this volley in
. 3.70:

There's nothin' wrong with smokin' blue chips once in a while.

But I might also add, that ties in with your question about coolant.
You want the chips hot, but not the body of the work.

Lloyd

Lloyd, I am happy now, that I can make thick blue chips that are also
very consistent. And I agree with you in general, as long as the motor
keeps up the RPM (which I can simply hear), it should be fine.

i

On Sun, 19 May 2013 12:14:53 -0500, Ignoramus17710
wrote:


OK, I will try that, but I did not want to puch my lathe too hard.

Unless you stall the motor, slip the belts, get the tool chattering
(and wreck the finish) or start breaking tooling, you can never Puch
your lathe too hard. Would I Steyr you wrong?

Unless you just don't give a Daimler... ;-P

-- Bruce --

On 5/18/2013 9:38 PM, Ignoramus12664 wrote:
I finally got around and re-adjusted the clutch on the Clausing 6913
lathe. (13x48). The clutch was previously slipping and I could only
make the lightest of cuts.

Now, the clutch no longer slips when engaged, and can still be
disengaged, and I can take much heavier cuts. And what I like the most
is that I can again use power feed.

The problem I had with one piece of metal, is that when I cut it with
power feed and a carbide insert, it would make an endless chip, that
warps and gets everywhere, and it seems to be unsafe. How can I ensure
that this chip breaks?

i


I just "pulse" the feed engagement handle every few seconds and produce
nice 10" long "springs". The "springs" are easy to handle and sometimes
stack up nicely in a bundle.

Tom Gardner Mars@Tacks fired this volley in
:

I just "pulse" the feed engagement handle every few seconds and produce
nice 10" long "springs". The "springs" are easy to handle and
sometimes
stack up nicely in a bundle.

Hmmmm... My first reaction to that was that it would create lousy surface
finish... but then I realized these are roughing cuts! blush

Good idea, Tom.

I have a bunch of those foot-long springs of 6011 in the recycle bin.
(only, they broke apart on their own).


Lloyd

On Mon, 20 May 2013 11:29:35 -0700, "Bruce L. Bergman (munged human
readable)" wrote:

On Sun, 19 May 2013 12:14:53 -0500, Ignoramus17710
wrote:


OK, I will try that, but I did not want to puch my lathe too hard.

Unless you stall the motor, slip the belts, get the tool chattering
(and wreck the finish) or start breaking tooling, you can never Puch
your lathe too hard. Would I Steyr you wrong?

Unless you just don't give a Daimler... ;-P

-- Bruce --
That was a funny post. I like it when I can Saab with laughter. You
must be the Scion of a comedian. I hope I don't have to Dodge any
tomatoes from my bad puns. I better pull up my Sachs and put on my
shoes and run. Even better, I can Triumph by jumping on my Mustang to
get away.
Earache

Ignoramus17710 wrote:
On 2013-05-19, Karl Townsend wrote:
On Sun, 19 May 2013 01:19:19 -0500, "RogerN"
wrote:

"Ignoramus12664" wrote in message
...

I finally got around and re-adjusted the clutch on the Clausing 6913
lathe. (13x48). The clutch was previously slipping and I could only
make the lightest of cuts.

Now, the clutch no longer slips when engaged, and can still be
disengaged, and I can take much heavier cuts. And what I like the most
is that I can again use power feed.

The problem I had with one piece of metal, is that when I cut it with
power feed and a carbide insert, it would make an endless chip, that
warps and gets everywhere, and it seems to be unsafe. How can I ensure
that this chip breaks?

i

My experience agrees with Harold's response. I had long chips even with a
chip breaker, I increased the feed per revolution, the chips broke, IIRC I
was feeding over 0.010" per revolution, maybe closer to 0.020". I had short
blue chips and the finish looked good.

RogerN


I often use HSS or brazed carbide with no chipbreaker. And slow feeds
so it wouldn't help anyway. Hope nobody cringes but I use a
screwdriver to pull out nests as it runs. I have had the screwdriver
snatched out of my hands and rapidly tossed accross the room more than
once.

I do use carbide inserts for heavy ruffing cuts and get it to run "9"
shape chips.

Karl


i hate to admit to the same thing





If you run a lathe you should have a chip hook, a long steel rod with
short 90 deg. bend on the end and a handle like a file handle on the other.

John

"Ed Huntress" wrote in message
...
On Sun, 19 May 2013 05:12:13 GMT, "Harold & Susan Vordos"
wrote:


"Ignoramus12664" wrote in message
...
I finally got around and re-adjusted the clutch on the Clausing 6913
lathe. (13x48). The clutch was previously slipping and I could only
make the lightest of cuts.

Now, the clutch no longer slips when engaged, and can still be
disengaged, and I can take much heavier cuts. And what I like the most
is that I can again use power feed.

The problem I had with one piece of metal, is that when I cut it with
power feed and a carbide insert, it would make an endless chip, that
warps and gets everywhere, and it seems to be unsafe. How can I ensure
that this chip breaks?

i


Chip breakers rely on a given amount of feed in order to function
properly.
Rule of thumb is to increase feed when a chip doesn't break.
Do not expect a chip breaker to function with light feeds, or shallow
depths
of cut.

Harold

Good points. And sometimes, don't expect them to work at all.

If Iggy is dealing with some nickel alloy (like stainless), a higher
feedrate will work-harden the chip and help it break. If it's some
dead-soft low-carbon steel, maybe, maybe not.

--
Ed Huntress

I've never failed to break mild steel chips. Throw feed at it until it
breaks---and it will. Bear in mind, I'm speaking of operating industrially
rated equipment, where power isn't an issue. Home type machines often lack
power, rigidity and the speed required (carbide).

Stainless can be a different issue, with which I agree. Stick to the free
machining grades and it's a non-issue. I prefer them (416, 303 Se, then
303 S) to almost anything where machining and chip breaking is concerned.
No problems with work hardening----just use sharp tools and keep the cut
moving.

I have experienced materials that refuse to break. In such a case, I try
for a coil spring. It's much safer than strings.

Harold

"Ed Huntress" wrote in message
...
On Sun, 19 May 2013 05:12:13 GMT, "Harold & Susan Vordos"
wrote:


"Ignoramus12664" wrote in message
...
I finally got around and re-adjusted the clutch on the Clausing 6913
lathe. (13x48). The clutch was previously slipping and I could only
make the lightest of cuts.

Now, the clutch no longer slips when engaged, and can still be
disengaged, and I can take much heavier cuts. And what I like the most
is that I can again use power feed.

The problem I had with one piece of metal, is that when I cut it with
power feed and a carbide insert, it would make an endless chip, that
warps and gets everywhere, and it seems to be unsafe. How can I ensure
that this chip breaks?

i


Chip breakers rely on a given amount of feed in order to function
properly.
Rule of thumb is to increase feed when a chip doesn't break.
Do not expect a chip breaker to function with light feeds, or shallow
depths
of cut.

Harold

Good points. And sometimes, don't expect them to work at all.

If Iggy is dealing with some nickel alloy (like stainless), a higher
feedrate will work-harden the chip and help it break. If it's some
dead-soft low-carbon steel, maybe, maybe not.

--
Ed Huntress

I've never failed to break mild steel chips (speaking of roughing---all bets
are off for finish cuts). Increase feed rate until it breaks, If it fails
to do so and you run out of power, decrease the width of the chip breaker,
or increase the depth---anything to cause the chip to curl tighter. Avoid
an abrupt inner corner at the exit, however, so chips can't stack up.

When roughing, mild steel breaks perfectly well when conditions are right.

Harold

On Tue, 21 May 2013 04:49:33 GMT, "Harold & Susan Vordos"
wrote:


"Ed Huntress" wrote in message
.. .
On Sun, 19 May 2013 05:12:13 GMT, "Harold & Susan Vordos"
wrote:


"Ignoramus12664" wrote in message
...
I finally got around and re-adjusted the clutch on the Clausing 6913
lathe. (13x48). The clutch was previously slipping and I could only
make the lightest of cuts.

Now, the clutch no longer slips when engaged, and can still be
disengaged, and I can take much heavier cuts. And what I like the most
is that I can again use power feed.

The problem I had with one piece of metal, is that when I cut it with
power feed and a carbide insert, it would make an endless chip, that
warps and gets everywhere, and it seems to be unsafe. How can I ensure
that this chip breaks?

i


Chip breakers rely on a given amount of feed in order to function
properly.
Rule of thumb is to increase feed when a chip doesn't break.
Do not expect a chip breaker to function with light feeds, or shallow
depths
of cut.

Harold

Good points. And sometimes, don't expect them to work at all.

If Iggy is dealing with some nickel alloy (like stainless), a higher
feedrate will work-harden the chip and help it break. If it's some
dead-soft low-carbon steel, maybe, maybe not.

--
Ed Huntress

I've never failed to break mild steel chips. Throw feed at it until it
breaks---and it will. Bear in mind, I'm speaking of operating industrially
rated equipment, where power isn't an issue. Home type machines often lack
power, rigidity and the speed required (carbide).

My little belt-driven SB10L, which is a more typical hobbyist's
machine, doesn't like that kind of treatment. So I fiddle with
grinding chipbreakers into my HSS tools until I get the best results I
can.

Sometimes, machining some hot-rolled crap (which I try to avoid),
ain't nuthin' that's going to break them, even pushing the feedrate to
the machine's limits.

I have a really good bird's-nest hook. g


Stainless can be a different issue, with which I agree. Stick to the free
machining grades and it's a non-issue. I prefer them (416, 303 Se, then
303 S) to almost anything where machining and chip breaking is concerned.
No problems with work hardening----just use sharp tools and keep the cut
moving.

I have experienced materials that refuse to break. In such a case, I try
for a coil spring. It's much safer than strings.

I have some cool-looking ones. d8-)

I'm sure that experienced commercial machinists would look at my
setups and could give me a solution, but it's not much of a problem
for me, anyway, because I don't often machine the materials that give
that trouble.

Right now, I'm not machining anything. I have to replace the belt on
my machine. Jim Rozen gave me some belt material but now I have to
decide how to join it. Do you have any glue recommendations? I can
make a clean scarf with no problem.

--
Ed Huntress


Harold

"Ed Huntress" wrote in message
...
snip----

Right now, I'm not machining anything. I have to replace the belt on
my machine. Jim Rozen gave me some belt material but now I have to
decide how to join it. Do you have any glue recommendations? I can
make a clean scarf with no problem.

--
Ed Huntress

Sorry, no. I have nothing to offer. I've never been faced with that
problem, and have not been around the flat belt machines. Virtually all of
my experience has come in industry, where such machines were not found.

The only SB that I ever experienced was a 17" Turnado (geared head), which I
found to be borderline junk. It couldn't stand up to the rigors of the
production shop. Not trying to be rude, just reporting what I
experienced. There's a huge number of satisfied SB owners, I know.

Luck with the belt.

With those sticky materials that don't break well with HSS, a narrower and
deeper breaker can be the solution, but it's not easy hitting the perfect
balance, as a narrow breaker tends to trap the chip. I have a lot of
experience with HSS----I used it alongside brazed carbide and insert tooling
up to the day I closed the doors on my commercial (non CNC) shop. The
real negative is that it's not easy sharpening once installed in a setup,
unlike insert carbide. Registration is lost when the tool is removed for
sharpening. For CNC operations, it most likely wouldn't serve well at all,
but for the guy running manual machines, it really is a great solution to
machining. That, of course, depends on one's ability to fashion tools with
the correct geometry.

Harold

On Tue, 21 May 2013 20:23:18 GMT, "Harold & Susan Vordos"
wrote:


"Ed Huntress" wrote in message
.. .
snip----

Right now, I'm not machining anything. I have to replace the belt on
my machine. Jim Rozen gave me some belt material but now I have to
decide how to join it. Do you have any glue recommendations? I can
make a clean scarf with no problem.

--
Ed Huntress

Sorry, no. I have nothing to offer. I've never been faced with that
problem, and have not been around the flat belt machines. Virtually all of
my experience has come in industry, where such machines were not found.

The only SB that I ever experienced was a 17" Turnado (geared head), which I
found to be borderline junk. It couldn't stand up to the rigors of the
production shop. Not trying to be rude, just reporting what I
experienced. There's a huge number of satisfied SB owners, I know.

Luck with the belt.

With those sticky materials that don't break well with HSS, a narrower and
deeper breaker can be the solution, but it's not easy hitting the perfect
balance, as a narrow breaker tends to trap the chip. I have a lot of
experience with HSS----I used it alongside brazed carbide and insert tooling
up to the day I closed the doors on my commercial (non CNC) shop. The
real negative is that it's not easy sharpening once installed in a setup,
unlike insert carbide. Registration is lost when the tool is removed for
sharpening. For CNC operations, it most likely wouldn't serve well at all,
but for the guy running manual machines, it really is a great solution to
machining. That, of course, depends on one's ability to fashion tools with
the correct geometry.

Harold

I have a lot of old brazed carbide tools, but sharpening them is a
problem and I rarely waste my time with them. I use carbide mostly for
turning fiberglass and other abrasive materials. When I'm building
fishing rods and making ferrules, I cut enough of it that HSS just
doesn't keep an edge.

However, I'll keep the narrow chip breaker in mind. And I'll keep
looking for a good glue for the belt.

Thanks, Harold.

--
Ed Huntress

On Tue, 21 May 2013 10:34:30 -0400, Ed Huntress
wrote:



Right now, I'm not machining anything. I have to replace the belt on
my machine. Jim Rozen gave me some belt material but now I have to
decide how to join it. Do you have any glue recommendations? I can
make a clean scarf with no problem.

Wasn't there a recent thread about joining flat belts?

Anyway, we used to use hot animal glue - hoof and hide - to join flat
leather belts. The length of the scarf is covered (I think) in the
Machinery's Handbook but is several inches.

We normally used those patented splices that look like a row of
staples for most machines though.
--
Cheers,

John B.

Hey Ed,

How is Jim doing? His name gets in my thoughts every so often 'cause
I miss him here. Good guy. I know why he isn't here, and that is
really too bad for us.

Please say "Hi !!!" from me.

Take care.

Brian Lawson,
Bothwell, Ontario (Used to be Windsor, Ontario when Jim was still
here)

On Tue, 21 May 2013 19:29:17 -0400, Brian Lawson
wrote:


Hey Ed,

How is Jim doing? His name gets in my thoughts every so often 'cause
I miss him here. Good guy. I know why he isn't here, and that is
really too bad for us.

Please say "Hi !!!" from me.

Take care.

Brian Lawson,
Bothwell, Ontario (Used to be Windsor, Ontario when Jim was still
here)

I haven't been in touch with him for a long while, Brian, but I must
do so. I'm making a note now to say hi from you when I do.

Last I heard, he was doing great.

--
Ed Huntress

On Wed, 22 May 2013 06:27:40 +0700, John B. slocomb
wrote:

On Tue, 21 May 2013 10:34:30 -0400, Ed Huntress
wrote:



Right now, I'm not machining anything. I have to replace the belt on
my machine. Jim Rozen gave me some belt material but now I have to
decide how to join it. Do you have any glue recommendations? I can
make a clean scarf with no problem.

Wasn't there a recent thread about joining flat belts?

Anyway, we used to use hot animal glue - hoof and hide - to join flat
leather belts. The length of the scarf is covered (I think) in the
Machinery's Handbook but is several inches.

Yeah, but there's got to be something better now.


We normally used those patented splices that look like a row of
staples for most machines though.

Dobie Dave has one of those staplers that he'll let me use, but it's
'way too wide for my belt. The one on the lathe now is stapled. But I
figured I'd just glue it.

--
Ed Huntress

"Ed Huntress" wrote in message
...

On Wed, 22 May 2013 06:27:40 +0700, John B. slocomb
wrote:

On Tue, 21 May 2013 10:34:30 -0400, Ed Huntress
wrote:



Right now, I'm not machining anything. I have to replace the belt on
my machine. Jim Rozen gave me some belt material but now I have to
decide how to join it. Do you have any glue recommendations? I can
make a clean scarf with no problem.

Wasn't there a recent thread about joining flat belts?

Anyway, we used to use hot animal glue - hoof and hide - to join flat
leather belts. The length of the scarf is covered (I think) in the
Machinery's Handbook but is several inches.

Yeah, but there's got to be something better now.

I wonder how that polyurethane gorilla glue, or similar, would work?

snip
--
Ed Huntress

On 5/20/2013 3:16 PM, Lloyd E. Sponenburgh wrote:
Tom Gardner Mars@Tacks fired this volley in
:

I just "pulse" the feed engagement handle every few seconds and produce
nice 10" long "springs". The "springs" are easy to handle and
sometimes
stack up nicely in a bundle.

Hmmmm... My first reaction to that was that it would create lousy surface
finish... but then I realized these are roughing cuts! blush

Good idea, Tom.

I have a bunch of those foot-long springs of 6011 in the recycle bin.
(only, they broke apart on their own).


Lloyd


I really hate to wrestle that 3' Brillo pad out of the chip tray!

On 2013-05-21, John B slocomb wrote:
On Tue, 21 May 2013 10:34:30 -0400, Ed Huntress
wrote:



Right now, I'm not machining anything. I have to replace the belt on
my machine. Jim Rozen gave me some belt material but now I have to
decide how to join it. Do you have any glue recommendations? I can
make a clean scarf with no problem.

Wasn't there a recent thread about joining flat belts?

Anyway, we used to use hot animal glue - hoof and hide - to join flat
leather belts. The length of the scarf is covered (I think) in the
Machinery's Handbook but is several inches.

We normally used those patented splices that look like a row of
staples for most machines though.

And -- you can also lace them with leather and a bunch of holes.
The leather on the pulley side runs parallel to the belt edges, and that
on the other side runs diagonally between rows of holes. An old South
Bend _How to Run a Lathe_ manual used to cover that.

Enjoy,
DoN.

--
Remove oil spill source from e-mail
Email: | Voice (all times): (703) 938-4564
(too) near Washington D.C. | http://www.d-and-d.com/dnichols/DoN.html
--- Black Holes are where God is dividing by zero ---

On Tue, 21 May 2013 19:49:50 -0500, "RogerN"
wrote:

"Ed Huntress" wrote in message
.. .

On Wed, 22 May 2013 06:27:40 +0700, John B. slocomb
wrote:

On Tue, 21 May 2013 10:34:30 -0400, Ed Huntress
wrote:



Right now, I'm not machining anything. I have to replace the belt on
my machine. Jim Rozen gave me some belt material but now I have to
decide how to join it. Do you have any glue recommendations? I can
make a clean scarf with no problem.

Wasn't there a recent thread about joining flat belts?

Anyway, we used to use hot animal glue - hoof and hide - to join flat
leather belts. The length of the scarf is covered (I think) in the
Machinery's Handbook but is several inches.

Yeah, but there's got to be something better now.

I wonder how that polyurethane gorilla glue, or similar, would work?

snip

I use that stuff for a variety of things, including gluing my son's
soccer shoes back together, and it's true that it's somewhat flexible
and has great adhesion.

I just don't think it's flexible *enough*. Something like Pliobond or
Shoe Goo would be more flexible. But I don't know if they have enough
sheer strength.

I'll probably wind up calling some adhesives expert. Cripes, I used to
write long articles about adhesive assembly, but the adhesives I know
about are almost as old as hide glue.

--
Ed Huntress

On 22 May 2013 03:17:53 GMT, "DoN. Nichols"
wrote:

On 2013-05-21, John B slocomb wrote:
On Tue, 21 May 2013 10:34:30 -0400, Ed Huntress
wrote:



Right now, I'm not machining anything. I have to replace the belt on
my machine. Jim Rozen gave me some belt material but now I have to
decide how to join it. Do you have any glue recommendations? I can
make a clean scarf with no problem.

Wasn't there a recent thread about joining flat belts?

Anyway, we used to use hot animal glue - hoof and hide - to join flat
leather belts. The length of the scarf is covered (I think) in the
Machinery's Handbook but is several inches.

We normally used those patented splices that look like a row of
staples for most machines though.

And -- you can also lace them with leather and a bunch of holes.
The leather on the pulley side runs parallel to the belt edges, and that
on the other side runs diagonally between rows of holes. An old South
Bend _How to Run a Lathe_ manual used to cover that.

Enjoy,
DoN.

Yeah, that's my other option. You have to cut relief grooves in the
belt with a woodcarver's gouge, but it looks doable.

Skiving, though, is easier for me. So I'm going to try gluing.

--
Ed Huntress

"Ed Huntress" wrote in message
...
On Tue, 21 May 2013 19:49:50 -0500, "RogerN"
wrote:

"Ed Huntress" wrote in message
. ..

On Wed, 22 May 2013 06:27:40 +0700, John B. slocomb
wrote:

On Tue, 21 May 2013 10:34:30 -0400, Ed Huntress
wrote:



Right now, I'm not machining anything. I have to replace the belt on
my machine. Jim Rozen gave me some belt material but now I have to
decide how to join it. Do you have any glue recommendations? I can
make a clean scarf with no problem.

Wasn't there a recent thread about joining flat belts?

Anyway, we used to use hot animal glue - hoof and hide - to join flat
leather belts. The length of the scarf is covered (I think) in the
Machinery's Handbook but is several inches.

Yeah, but there's got to be something better now.

I wonder how that polyurethane gorilla glue, or similar, would work?

snip

I use that stuff for a variety of things, including gluing my son's
soccer shoes back together, and it's true that it's somewhat flexible
and has great adhesion.

I just don't think it's flexible *enough*. Something like Pliobond or
Shoe Goo would be more flexible. But I don't know if they have enough
sheer strength.

I'll probably wind up calling some adhesives expert. Cripes, I used to
write long articles about adhesive assembly, but the adhesives I know
about are almost as old as hide glue.

--
Ed Huntress

The best stuff is called Barge cement. It's alike pliobond, but a lot better
on leather. It is what shoe makers use to attach soles.

That being said, the stuff is hard to find (just like shoemakers) and a
gallon would last me 20 lifetimes.

I have used Gorilla glue on my lathe belt and it is still working fine 10+
years later.
I think that, although the dried glue is fairly rigid, it is able to
fracture into a series of narrow rigid joints that roll around the pulleys
like tank treads