On Tue, 21 May 2013 04:49:33 GMT, "Harold & Susan Vordos"
wrote:


"Ed Huntress" wrote in message
.. .
On Sun, 19 May 2013 05:12:13 GMT, "Harold & Susan Vordos"
wrote:


"Ignoramus12664" wrote in message
...
I finally got around and re-adjusted the clutch on the Clausing 6913
lathe. (13x48). The clutch was previously slipping and I could only
make the lightest of cuts.

Now, the clutch no longer slips when engaged, and can still be
disengaged, and I can take much heavier cuts. And what I like the most
is that I can again use power feed.

The problem I had with one piece of metal, is that when I cut it with
power feed and a carbide insert, it would make an endless chip, that
warps and gets everywhere, and it seems to be unsafe. How can I ensure
that this chip breaks?

i


Chip breakers rely on a given amount of feed in order to function
properly.
Rule of thumb is to increase feed when a chip doesn't break.
Do not expect a chip breaker to function with light feeds, or shallow
depths
of cut.

Harold

Good points. And sometimes, don't expect them to work at all.

If Iggy is dealing with some nickel alloy (like stainless), a higher
feedrate will work-harden the chip and help it break. If it's some
dead-soft low-carbon steel, maybe, maybe not.

--
Ed Huntress

I've never failed to break mild steel chips. Throw feed at it until it
breaks---and it will. Bear in mind, I'm speaking of operating industrially
rated equipment, where power isn't an issue. Home type machines often lack
power, rigidity and the speed required (carbide).

My little belt-driven SB10L, which is a more typical hobbyist's
machine, doesn't like that kind of treatment. So I fiddle with
grinding chipbreakers into my HSS tools until I get the best results I
can.

Sometimes, machining some hot-rolled crap (which I try to avoid),
ain't nuthin' that's going to break them, even pushing the feedrate to
the machine's limits.

I have a really good bird's-nest hook. g


Stainless can be a different issue, with which I agree. Stick to the free
machining grades and it's a non-issue. I prefer them (416, 303 Se, then
303 S) to almost anything where machining and chip breaking is concerned.
No problems with work hardening----just use sharp tools and keep the cut
moving.

I have experienced materials that refuse to break. In such a case, I try
for a coil spring. It's much safer than strings.

I have some cool-looking ones. d8-)

I'm sure that experienced commercial machinists would look at my
setups and could give me a solution, but it's not much of a problem
for me, anyway, because I don't often machine the materials that give
that trouble.

Right now, I'm not machining anything. I have to replace the belt on
my machine. Jim Rozen gave me some belt material but now I have to
decide how to join it. Do you have any glue recommendations? I can
make a clean scarf with no problem.

--
Ed Huntress


Harold