Have a small portable compressor, craftsman, decent for trim install and
such, easy to carry up stairs.

Was working great, now it will run and run, but never gets the tank
above 20 PSI. I find no leaks in the tubing, the check valve is free, I
took the head off, the two loose pieces of shim stock that they use as
reed valves look OK, but is there a way to test these? Without a spark
plug hole, I'm unsure of how to test rings...

Before I take it to Sears, anybody got any ideas?

Stuart

I'd give a squirt of ND-30 oil onto the rings, and see if that helps.

Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..

"Stuart Wheaton" wrote in message
...

Have a small portable compressor, craftsman, decent for trim install and
such, easy to carry up stairs.

Was working great, now it will run and run, but never gets the tank
above 20 PSI. I find no leaks in the tubing, the check valve is free, I
took the head off, the two loose pieces of shim stock that they use as
reed valves look OK, but is there a way to test these? Without a spark
plug hole, I'm unsure of how to test rings...

Before I take it to Sears, anybody got any ideas?

Stuart

"Stormin Mormon" fired this volley in
:


Before I take it to Sears, anybody got any ideas?


What about the unloader? Most of those small oil-less compressors have a
flow-actuated unloader that allows the motor to get up to speed before the
valve closes.

Rarely, my DeWalt Emglo double-sausage will have the unloader stick for
about a minute before it finally kicks over.

LLoyd

On 7/28/2012 6:08 PM, Lloyd E. Sponenburgh wrote:
"Stormin Mormon" fired this volley in
:


Before I take it to Sears, anybody got any ideas?


What about the unloader? Most of those small oil-less compressors have a
flow-actuated unloader that allows the motor to get up to speed before the
valve closes.

Rarely, my DeWalt Emglo double-sausage will have the unloader stick for
about a minute before it finally kicks over.

LLoyd



This actually has an oil crankcase and a mechanical unloader triggered
when the contactor opens, but I will look at that, I recall it was
sticking closed a while ago, maybe it went the other way now. I would
think I'd hear it hissing like crazy.

Stuart

In article ,
Stuart Wheaton wrote:

Have a small portable compressor, craftsman, decent for trim install and
such, easy to carry up stairs.

Was working great, now it will run and run, but never gets the tank
above 20 PSI. I find no leaks in the tubing, the check valve is free, I
took the head off, the two loose pieces of shim stock that they use as
reed valves look OK, but is there a way to test these? Without a spark
plug hole, I'm unsure of how to test rings...

Before I take it to Sears, anybody got any ideas?

Stuart

I doubt the shim stock is supposed to be loose, though I don't know
which particular one you have. Often it breaks (at which point what's
left becomes loose) and I have one where bits of it got down inside
after breaking and dorked the cylinder and piston, jamming between them
so as to scratch the cylinder wall and cut the piston seal (oilless.)

It's often fiscally silly to repair them (parts are more than a
replacement, and they were not that great to begin with.)

On the particular oilless version I have, with the head off the cylinder
is easy to pull as well.

--
Cats, coffee, chocolate...vices to live by
Please don't feed the trolls. Killfile and ignore them so they will go away.

"Stuart Wheaton" wrote in message
...

Have a small portable compressor, craftsman, decent for trim install and such, easy
to carry up stairs.

Was working great, now it will run and run, but never gets the tank above 20 PSI.
I find no leaks in the tubing, the check valve is free, I took the head off, the
two loose pieces of shim stock that they use as reed valves look OK, but is there a
way to test these? Without a spark plug hole, I'm unsure of how to test rings...

Before I take it to Sears, anybody got any ideas?

Stuart

I have one of those and had a similar problem. The cause was
a blown head gasket. On the gasket there is a thin web that separates
the suction side from the high pressure side. This was faulty on mine.
The gasket set from sears parts was cheap enough but the S/H on
top made me make my own gasket with bulk gasket material from
NAPA. Works fine now.
Art

Artemus wrote:

I have one of those and had a similar problem. The cause was
a blown head gasket. On the gasket there is a thin web that separates
the suction side from the high pressure side. This was faulty on mine.
The gasket set from sears parts was cheap enough but the S/H on
top made me make my own gasket with bulk gasket material from
NAPA. Works fine now.


No local Sears parts warehouse? I needed a pully for an old
Craftsman belt driven table saw and picked it up from a Sear warehouse
across town. I've bought knobs for appliances from them, as well.

On 7/28/2012 9:00 PM, Michael A. Terrell wrote:

Artemus wrote:

I have one of those and had a similar problem. The cause was
a blown head gasket. On the gasket there is a thin web that separates
the suction side from the high pressure side. This was faulty on mine.
The gasket set from sears parts was cheap enough but the S/H on
top made me make my own gasket with bulk gasket material from
NAPA. Works fine now.


No local Sears parts warehouse? I needed a pully for an old
Craftsman belt driven table saw and picked it up from a Sear warehouse
across town. I've bought knobs for appliances from them, as well.



It was the head gasket. I got foxed out a bit because the natural
separation line is the metal gasket below the head gasket, where the
reed valves sit. I was afraid of hurting the soft gasket above that...
not to worry, it was already broken. There's a Sears sevice and
parts center a few miles from here, I'll have the thing running again on
monday. If I strike out there, there is a NAPA on the way back.

thanks guys.

Stuart

It's rare to hear of someone repair anything, now days. I'm pleased, and
encouraged. Thank you for writing, and thank you again, for telling us what
turned out to be the problem.

Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..

"Stuart Wheaton" wrote in message
...

It was the head gasket. I got foxed out a bit because the natural
separation line is the metal gasket below the head gasket, where the
reed valves sit. I was afraid of hurting the soft gasket above that...
not to worry, it was already broken. There's a Sears sevice and
parts center a few miles from here, I'll have the thing running again on
monday. If I strike out there, there is a NAPA on the way back.

thanks guys.

Stuart

Stuart Wheaton wrote:

On 7/28/2012 9:00 PM, Michael A. Terrell wrote:

Artemus wrote:

I have one of those and had a similar problem. The cause was
a blown head gasket. On the gasket there is a thin web that separates
the suction side from the high pressure side. This was faulty on mine.
The gasket set from sears parts was cheap enough but the S/H on
top made me make my own gasket with bulk gasket material from
NAPA. Works fine now.


No local Sears parts warehouse? I needed a pully for an old
Craftsman belt driven table saw and picked it up from a Sear warehouse
across town. I've bought knobs for appliances from them, as well.


It was the head gasket. I got foxed out a bit because the natural
separation line is the metal gasket below the head gasket, where the
reed valves sit. I was afraid of hurting the soft gasket above that...
not to worry, it was already broken. There's a Sears sevice and
parts center a few miles from here, I'll have the thing running again on
monday. If I strike out there, there is a NAPA on the way back.


Sometimes the OEM parts are a lot cheaper than the materials to do it
the hard way.

I'm remembering the $6 thermostat for my vehicle, a couple decades ago. I
knew I had a couple at home. So, I put in a used one, from a different
vehicle. It was too big, and tightening broke the cast housing. The $6
thermostat would have been cheaper than the $5 housing, the trip to the junk
yard, stomping around in the mud, and buy the $6 thermostat on the way home.

Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..

"Michael A. Terrell" wrote in message
...

Sometimes the OEM parts are a lot cheaper than the materials to do it
the hard way.

"Stuart Wheaton" wrote in message
...
On 7/28/2012 9:00 PM, Michael A. Terrell wrote:

Artemus wrote:

I have one of those and had a similar problem. The cause was
a blown head gasket. On the gasket there is a thin web that separates
the suction side from the high pressure side. This was faulty on mine.
The gasket set from sears parts was cheap enough but the S/H on
top made me make my own gasket with bulk gasket material from
NAPA. Works fine now.


No local Sears parts warehouse? I needed a pully for an old
Craftsman belt driven table saw and picked it up from a Sear warehouse
across town. I've bought knobs for appliances from them, as well.



It was the head gasket. I got foxed out a bit because the natural separation line
is the metal gasket below the head gasket, where the reed valves sit. I was afraid
of hurting the soft gasket above that... not to worry, it was already broken.
There's a Sears sevice and parts center a few miles from here, I'll have the thing
running again on monday. If I strike out there, there is a NAPA on the way back.

thanks guys.

Stuart


Hopefully you'll have better luck with your local sears parts than I did.
My local place told me it wasn't an item they carried in stock and wouldn't
even order it for me. $6 for a complete gasket set plus $8 S/H vs less than
an hour with the NAPA stuff I already had on hand.
Art

Artemus wrote:

Hopefully you'll have better luck with your local sears parts than I did.
My local place told me it wasn't an item they carried in stock and wouldn't
even order it for me. $6 for a complete gasket set plus $8 S/H vs less than
an hour with the NAPA stuff I already had on hand.


I would have called Sears corporate and raised hell.

On Sun, 29 Jul 2012 15:59:24 -0400, "Michael A. Terrell"
wrote:


Artemus wrote:

Hopefully you'll have better luck with your local sears parts than I did.
My local place told me it wasn't an item they carried in stock and wouldn't
even order it for me. $6 for a complete gasket set plus $8 S/H vs less than
an hour with the NAPA stuff I already had on hand.


I would have called Sears corporate and raised hell.
================

Waste of time. Sears was bought out by [bankrupt] K-Mart,
using the pension funds, and then merged with K-Mart. Sears
Holdings is in long term decline, and may be setting up a
bust-out scam as they continue to draw down
merchandice/assets, stiff suppliers, and close stores.


http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sears_Holdings_Corporation
http://www.forbes.com/sites/heathers...ofit-forecast/
http://www.searsholdings.com/
http://www.reuters.com/article/2010/...63546020100406
http://www.searchenginecorp.com/pens...-plan-retirees
http://www.retail-worker.com/forum/about11718-0.html


--
Unka' George

"Gold is the money of kings,
silver is the money of gentlemen,
barter is the money of peasants,
but debt is the money of slaves"

-Norm Franz, "Money and Wealth in the New Millenium"

On Jul 29, 1:31*pm, "Artemus" wrote:
"Stuart Wheaton" wrote in message

...





On 7/28/2012 9:00 PM, Michael A. Terrell wrote:

Artemus wrote:

I have one of those and had a similar problem. *The cause was
a blown head gasket. *On the gasket there is a thin web that separates
the suction side from the high pressure side. *This was faulty on mine.
The gasket set from sears parts was cheap enough but the S/H on
top made me make my own gasket with bulk gasket material from
NAPA. *Works fine now.

* * No local Sears parts warehouse? *I needed a pully for an old
Craftsman belt driven table saw and picked it up from a Sear warehouse
across town. *I've bought knobs for appliances from them, as well.

It was the head gasket. *I got foxed out a bit because the natural separation line
is the metal gasket below the head gasket, where the reed valves sit. *I was afraid
of hurting the soft gasket above that... not to worry, it was already broken.
There's a Sears sevice and parts center a few miles from here, I'll have the thing
running again on monday. *If I strike out there, there is a NAPA on the way back.

thanks guys.

Stuart

Hopefully you'll have better luck with your local sears parts than I did.
My local place told me it wasn't an item they carried in stock and wouldn't
even order it for me. *$6 for a complete gasket set plus $8 S/H vs less than
an hour with the NAPA stuff I already had on hand.
Art

The b-in-l has a Craftsman portable, works fine for most of what he
does. Was there when he mentioned that it didn't work anymore. Poked
around, found the same problem as above, the head gasket had blown
between intake and outlet, a very thin section on the gasket. Shim
stock valves ARE just loose pieces sitting in divots in the head.
Closest Sears catalog place is 20 miles away and I KNEW they didn't
have parts. So made a gasket, probably a half-hour's work plus
reassembly. Worked fine after that, held pressure over a couple of
days. Factory gasket would have been the same cheesy plastic that
failed, if it had been available.

Stan

Glad to hear someone can repair things. Good job.

Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..

"Stanley Schaefer" wrote in message
...

Hopefully you'll have better luck with your local sears parts than I did.
My local place told me it wasn't an item they carried in stock and
wouldn't
even order it for me. $6 for a complete gasket set plus $8 S/H vs less
than
an hour with the NAPA stuff I already had on hand.
Art

The b-in-l has a Craftsman portable, works fine for most of what he
does. Was there when he mentioned that it didn't work anymore. Poked
around, found the same problem as above, the head gasket had blown
between intake and outlet, a very thin section on the gasket. Shim
stock valves ARE just loose pieces sitting in divots in the head.
Closest Sears catalog place is 20 miles away and I KNEW they didn't
have parts. So made a gasket, probably a half-hour's work plus
reassembly. Worked fine after that, held pressure over a couple of
days. Factory gasket would have been the same cheesy plastic that
failed, if it had been available.

Stan

On 7/29/2012 3:31 PM, Artemus wrote:
"Stuart Wheaton" wrote in message
...
On 7/28/2012 9:00 PM, Michael A. Terrell wrote:

Artemus wrote:

I have one of those and had a similar problem. The cause was
a blown head gasket. On the gasket there is a thin web that separates
the suction side from the high pressure side. This was faulty on mine.
The gasket set from sears parts was cheap enough but the S/H on
top made me make my own gasket with bulk gasket material from
NAPA. Works fine now.


No local Sears parts warehouse? I needed a pully for an old
Craftsman belt driven table saw and picked it up from a Sear warehouse
across town. I've bought knobs for appliances from them, as well.



It was the head gasket. I got foxed out a bit because the natural separation line
is the metal gasket below the head gasket, where the reed valves sit. I was afraid
of hurting the soft gasket above that... not to worry, it was already broken.
There's a Sears sevice and parts center a few miles from here, I'll have the thing
running again on monday. If I strike out there, there is a NAPA on the way back.

thanks guys.

Stuart


Hopefully you'll have better luck with your local sears parts than I did.
My local place told me it wasn't an item they carried in stock and wouldn't
even order it for me. $6 for a complete gasket set plus $8 S/H vs less than
an hour with the NAPA stuff I already had on hand.
Art



Gasket kit in stock, no line, in and out less than 5 minutes.
Compressor works great.

Stuart

"Stuart Wheaton" wrote in message
...
On 7/29/2012 3:31 PM, Artemus wrote:
"Stuart Wheaton" wrote in message
...
On 7/28/2012 9:00 PM, Michael A. Terrell wrote:

Artemus wrote:

I have one of those and had a similar problem. The cause was
a blown head gasket. On the gasket there is a thin web that separates
the suction side from the high pressure side. This was faulty on mine.
The gasket set from sears parts was cheap enough but the S/H on
top made me make my own gasket with bulk gasket material from
NAPA. Works fine now.


No local Sears parts warehouse? I needed a pully for an old
Craftsman belt driven table saw and picked it up from a Sear warehouse
across town. I've bought knobs for appliances from them, as well.



It was the head gasket. I got foxed out a bit because the natural separation
line
is the metal gasket below the head gasket, where the reed valves sit. I was
afraid
of hurting the soft gasket above that... not to worry, it was already broken.
There's a Sears sevice and parts center a few miles from here, I'll have the
thing
running again on monday. If I strike out there, there is a NAPA on the way back.

thanks guys.

Stuart


Hopefully you'll have better luck with your local sears parts than I did.
My local place told me it wasn't an item they carried in stock and wouldn't
even order it for me. $6 for a complete gasket set plus $8 S/H vs less than
an hour with the NAPA stuff I already had on hand.
Art



Gasket kit in stock, no line, in and out less than 5 minutes. Compressor works
great.

Stuart

Excellent. It isn't often that Murphy loses one.
Art