I recently had a battery corrode in my black
4D cell Mag light. Old style bulb, if that's
relevant.

The 4D mag light by my front door was dead. I
managed to get the tail cap off (two big pipe
wrenches) and find the bottom battery had
corroded. Brand new battery, Endurance, from
Advance Auto Parts. After considerable scrubbing
and sanding, the light works again. I'm leaving it
in peices over night to dry. Then load up with
four Rayovac cells, and a shot of grease on the
tail cap threads.

The 4D mag is my "grab and go" light, in case I
need to go some where in a hurry.

It was only happy coincidence that I found the
corroded battery. Might have been there for
years, if I'd not needed the light for a bulb
test.

Since that time, others have told me that
batteries
corrode only in D cell mags, and typically the
battery next to the tail cap. Has anyone else
had this happen? Is it a common problem?

--
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..

In article ,
"Stormin Mormon" wrote:

I recently had a battery corrode in my black
4D cell Mag light. Old style bulb, if that's
relevant.

The 4D mag light by my front door was dead. I
managed to get the tail cap off (two big pipe
wrenches) and find the bottom battery had
corroded. Brand new battery, Endurance, from
Advance Auto Parts. After considerable scrubbing
and sanding, the light works again. I'm leaving it
in peices over night to dry. Then load up with
four Rayovac cells, and a shot of grease on the
tail cap threads.

The 4D mag is my "grab and go" light, in case I
need to go some where in a hurry.

It was only happy coincidence that I found the
corroded battery. Might have been there for
years, if I'd not needed the light for a bulb
test.

Since that time, others have told me that
batteries
corrode only in D cell mags, and typically the
battery next to the tail cap. Has anyone else
had this happen? Is it a common problem?

Been there done that! The only batteries in the a, c,d series that I
will use are Duracells. Had too many problems with others, especially
the bunny brand.

Chuck P.

Completely dead non-rechargeable batteries will generally always leak (and
those with manufacturing defects, prematurely dead).
With all the advancements in common batteries, apparently not much attention
has been given to making them completely leakproof.
I'm aware that most brand name cells guarantee their cells won't leak, but
I've never bothered sending any damaged items in for repair or replacement.

My trusty 20+ year old Brinkmann which uses 2 AAs just had a bad case of
leaky alkaline cells recently. I suspect the head rotated in the toolbox
enough to turn it on and kill the batteries completely dead, then they
leaked badly.

There was so much leakage and corrosion that the cells wouldn't push out
until I put vinegar in the body tube and let it soak for maybe 2 hours, then
forced them out with a hardwood dowel rod.

After cleaning up the damage and crystaline crap, I found out that one of
the brass contacts for the bulb pins had corroded away.
I could probably make a new conact from a small cable connecor contact or
other small part, but I just bagged the parts and put 'em in a box.
I have enough good flashlighs that I shoulda retired the Brinkmann years
ago. I kept using it because I'd put one of the Nite Ize 3-LED conversion
lamps in it.

In C or D cell flashlights, there is often enough oversize in the I.D. to be
able to wrap some plastic film around the batteries to form a barrier (that
thin clear stuff sold as page protectors for 3-ring binders). That may
minimize the housing damage if the leak is in the center, and it's
discovered soon enough.

I generally always use the plastic film wrap just because I don't like the
batteries rattling in the housing, which generally causes changes in the
level of light output (although I use Caig DeoxIT grease/paste on all the
contacts and housing threads).

--
WB
..........


"Stormin Mormon" wrote in message
...
I recently had a battery corrode in my black
4D cell Mag light. Old style bulb, if that's
relevant.

The 4D mag light by my front door was dead. I
managed to get the tail cap off (two big pipe
wrenches) and find the bottom battery had
corroded. Brand new battery, Endurance, from
Advance Auto Parts. After considerable scrubbing
and sanding, the light works again. I'm leaving it
in peices over night to dry. Then load up with
four Rayovac cells, and a shot of grease on the
tail cap threads.

The 4D mag is my "grab and go" light, in case I
need to go some where in a hurry.

It was only happy coincidence that I found the
corroded battery. Might have been there for
years, if I'd not needed the light for a bulb
test.

Since that time, others have told me that
batteries
corrode only in D cell mags, and typically the
battery next to the tail cap. Has anyone else
had this happen? Is it a common problem?

--
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
.

I've got 4 or 5 of that same light. I think I generally run Duracells
and have not had much problem. If it is ever dropped replace the
batteries, I've had two do this and it only seems to take weeks -
regardless of how many hrs on the set. One rolled off a milk crate
and hit the concrete floor tail first, a few weeks later it didn't
work and I couldn't get the tail cap off.

Come to think of it the one in the motor home rolled off the table the
last trip - I should take some new batteries over and put them in it.

nttp

That's turning into an interesting discussion.
Others write that the bunny brand is totally
reliable. I got a box load (display pack for a
store) of Energizer AAA, and about one out of 6 or
so were corroded. Expires in 2009, too. Not
expired stock.

I think I've stumbled into a debate. Which brand
of battery.

--
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..


"Pilgrim"
wrote in message
news
Been there done that! The only batteries in the a,
c,d series that I
will use are Duracells. Had too many problems with
others, especially
the bunny brand.

Chuck P.

I wonder if a condom could be used to protect
D-cells? I mean, it likely can, but not sure how
practical that is. Poke a hole in the one end....
and expect some strange looks at the time of your
next battery change. The plastic binder stuff
proably better, anyway.

The LED module may be still usable, on your next
Minimag or equivilant.

My Rayovac AA NiMH cells sometimes rattle in my
minimag. A little electric tape on the battery
helps.

I used some Ox Gard or some brand of grey gook on
the threads. (I jokingly call it Ox Gored, an Old
Testament reference.)

--
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..


"Wild_Bill" wrote in
message
...
Completely dead non-rechargeable batteries will
generally always leak (and
those with manufacturing defects, prematurely
dead).
With all the advancements in common batteries,
apparently not much attention
has been given to making them completely
leakproof.
I'm aware that most brand name cells guarantee
their cells won't leak, but
I've never bothered sending any damaged items in
for repair or replacement.

My trusty 20+ year old Brinkmann which uses 2 AAs
just had a bad case of
leaky alkaline cells recently. I suspect the head
rotated in the toolbox
enough to turn it on and kill the batteries
completely dead, then they
leaked badly.

There was so much leakage and corrosion that the
cells wouldn't push out
until I put vinegar in the body tube and let it
soak for maybe 2 hours, then
forced them out with a hardwood dowel rod.

After cleaning up the damage and crystaline crap,
I found out that one of
the brass contacts for the bulb pins had corroded
away.
I could probably make a new conact from a small
cable connecor contact or
other small part, but I just bagged the parts and
put 'em in a box.
I have enough good flashlighs that I shoulda
retired the Brinkmann years
ago. I kept using it because I'd put one of the
Nite Ize 3-LED conversion
lamps in it.

In C or D cell flashlights, there is often enough
oversize in the I.D. to be
able to wrap some plastic film around the
batteries to form a barrier (that
thin clear stuff sold as page protectors for
3-ring binders). That may
minimize the housing damage if the leak is in the
center, and it's
discovered soon enough.

I generally always use the plastic film wrap just
because I don't like the
batteries rattling in the housing, which generally
causes changes in the
level of light output (although I use Caig DeoxIT
grease/paste on all the
contacts and housing threads).

--
WB
..........


"Stormin Mormon"
wrote in
message
...
I recently had a battery corrode in my black
4D cell Mag light. Old style bulb, if that's
relevant.

The 4D mag light by my front door was dead. I
managed to get the tail cap off (two big pipe
wrenches) and find the bottom battery had
corroded. Brand new battery, Endurance, from
Advance Auto Parts. After considerable scrubbing
and sanding, the light works again. I'm leaving
it
in peices over night to dry. Then load up with
four Rayovac cells, and a shot of grease on the
tail cap threads.

The 4D mag is my "grab and go" light, in case I
need to go some where in a hurry.

It was only happy coincidence that I found the
corroded battery. Might have been there for
years, if I'd not needed the light for a bulb
test.

Since that time, others have told me that
batteries
corrode only in D cell mags, and typically the
battery next to the tail cap. Has anyone else
had this happen? Is it a common problem?

--
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
.

If dropped? I can't remember if this one was
dropped. I wonder if that's a pattern?

--
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..


"Rob Morden" wrote in
message
...
I've got 4 or 5 of that same light. I think I
generally run Duracells
and have not had much problem. If it is ever
dropped replace the
batteries, I've had two do this and it only seems
to take weeks -
regardless of how many hrs on the set. One rolled
off a milk crate
and hit the concrete floor tail first, a few weeks
later it didn't
work and I couldn't get the tail cap off.

Come to think of it the one in the motor home
rolled off the table the
last trip - I should take some new batteries over
and put them in it.

nttp

On Feb 17, 8:00*pm, "Stormin Mormon"
wrote:
...
I used some Ox Gard or some brand of grey gook on
the threads. (I jokingly call it Ox Gored, an Old
Testament reference.)
Christopher A. Young

The usual animal term for it is "Monkey Snot".

jsw

Stormin Mormon wrote:
That's turning into an interesting discussion.
Others write that the bunny brand is totally
reliable. I got a box load (display pack for a
store) of Energizer AAA, and about one out of 6 or
so were corroded. Expires in 2009, too. Not
expired stock.

I think I've stumbled into a debate. Which brand
of battery.


Strange, I thought this was 2010; The Year We Made Contact.

2009 should have been LAST year.

On Wed, 17 Feb 2010 09:08:46 -0500, "Stormin Mormon"
wrote:

I recently had a battery corrode in my black
4D cell Mag light. Old style bulb, if that's
relevant.


corroded. Brand new battery, Endurance, from
Advance Auto Parts.

Then load up with
four Rayovac cells, and a shot of grease on the
tail cap threads.

Rayovac is the one major brand I don't trust. I had a Rayovac AAA
leak in my autodarkening welding helmet. Given my druthers I get
Duracell or EverReady's

RWL

On Feb 17, 7:08*am, "Stormin Mormon"
wrote:
I recently had a battery corrode in my black
4D cell Mag light. Old style bulb, if that's
relevant.

The 4D mag light by my front door was dead. I
managed to get the tail cap off (two big pipe
wrenches) and find the bottom battery had
corroded. Brand new battery, Endurance, from
Advance Auto Parts. After considerable scrubbing
and sanding, the light works again. I'm leaving it
in peices over night to dry. Then load up with
four Rayovac cells, and a shot of grease on the
tail cap threads.

The 4D mag is my "grab and go" light, in case I
need to go some where in a hurry.

It was only happy coincidence that I found the
corroded battery. Might have been there for
years, if I'd not needed the light for a bulb
test.

Since that time, others have told me that
batteries
corrode only in D cell mags, and typically the
battery next to the tail cap. Has anyone else
had this happen? Is it a common problem?

--
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
*www.lds.org
.

Have had the same with name-brand cells in AA Mini-Maglites. Only
there, the switch "cookie" at the end that the reflector depresses
when screwed in to turn it on disintegrates, turns to gray powder.
Maglite sells switch kits with the tool to remove the old one and
install the new for a couple of bucks plus shipping, you can get just
about every piece on any of the flashlights from the company as
spares. Prices are pretty reasonable, too. Very nice when the cap
gets chewed up from being dropped or the lens ring gets dinged. Not
enough room in a Mini-Maglite to put a protective plastic sleeve in
around the battery stack. Have had to make up a midget slide-hammer
puller to get batteries out of them after one leaked, really messy
job. Once the switch is out, it's just a tube and regular nylon bore
brushes with some vinegar gets the crap out, then a whirl with some
wet or dry gets the thing shined up for next time.

Stan

On Feb 17, 4:08*am, "Stormin Mormon"
wrote:
I recently had a battery corrode in my black
4D cell Mag light. Old style bulb, if that's
relevant.

The 4D mag light by my front door was dead. I
managed to get the tail cap off (two big pipe
wrenches) and find the bottom battery had
corroded. Brand new battery, Endurance, from
Advance Auto Parts. After considerable scrubbing
and sanding, the light works again. I'm leaving it
in peices over night to dry. Then load up with
four Rayovac cells, and a shot of grease on the
tail cap threads.

The 4D mag is my "grab and go" light, in case I
need to go some where in a hurry.

It was only happy coincidence that I found the
corroded battery. Might have been there for
years, if I'd not needed the light for a bulb
test.

Since that time, others have told me that
batteries
corrode only in D cell mags, and typically the
battery next to the tail cap. Has anyone else
had this happen? Is it a common problem?

--
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
*www.lds.org
.

I've lost a couple AA Mag lights that way and so have my friends.
Don't remember the brand. I am have some problems with Sam's Club
Members Mark AA's leaking and corroding things.
Karl

I've noticed elevated temperatures seem to greatly accelerate corrosion
in batteries of every description... like leaving flashlights, or
storing spare batteries in the car and/or in the influence of other heat
sources.

For the record, I live in earthquake country and personal experience
through the years has convinced me that wading through debris in the
dark isn't fun anymore.

I have two Mini Mag's I've declared mission critical, and dedicated to
quake emergency use only. One is between the mattresses at the foot of
the bed (along with a good size white painted crow bar). The other is in
a drawer near the front door. Both can be easily located by feel in the
dark, and are placed so they can't roll or tumble away.

To prevent corrosion 'surprises' I replace the batteries in both every
two years, and have my Google calendar set up to automatically remind
me. Both lights are also dated with PostIt tape as a back up.

Of course I also have several other various lights scattered around for
general use, including a robust little 'Pulsar' LED keychain light with
momentary squeeze switch... perfect for quick peeks, and finding a
'real' light should push ever come to shove. The momentary switch works
extremely well at preventing accidental pocket activations. Had it for 6
or 7 years... replaced the batteries twice IIRC.

What I'd like is battery technology that will (economically) allow
flashlights and the like to be stowed corrosion free, long term in
warm/hot environments... like car interiors.

Erik

On Wed, 17 Feb 2010 09:08:46 -0500, "Stormin Mormon"
wrote:

I recently had a battery corrode in my black
4D cell Mag light. Old style bulb, if that's
relevant.

The 4D mag light by my front door was dead. I
managed to get the tail cap off (two big pipe
wrenches) and find the bottom battery had
corroded. Brand new battery, Endurance, from
Advance Auto Parts. After considerable scrubbing
and sanding, the light works again. I'm leaving it
in peices over night to dry. Then load up with
four Rayovac cells, and a shot of grease on the
tail cap threads.

The 4D mag is my "grab and go" light, in case I
need to go some where in a hurry.

It was only happy coincidence that I found the
corroded battery. Might have been there for
years, if I'd not needed the light for a bulb
test.

Since that time, others have told me that
batteries
corrode only in D cell mags, and typically the
battery next to the tail cap. Has anyone else
had this happen? Is it a common problem?

One thing I've concluded after several years experience is that all
Chinese made batteries (primary cells, anyway) are crap. It's not a
political issue for me, just lots of experience. I prefer Duracell,
but I'll use any batteries that aren't made in China. Their lower
price is negated by the shorter service they give, plus they are
really prone to leaking. For a while we bought the cheapies at work
(from Fastenal, as well as other vendors); that ended up costing us
more in the long run. Lots of the AA cells even would leak while still
in the wrapper. Back to the good stuff now.

Maybe the Advance brand is from "over yonder".

Joe

And, what makes you think that I purchased the
batteries (and noticed the corrosion) in 2010?

--
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..


"cavelamb" wrote in
message
...
Stormin Mormon wrote:
That's turning into an interesting discussion.
Others write that the bunny brand is totally
reliable. I got a box load (display pack for a
store) of Energizer AAA, and about one out of 6
or
so were corroded. Expires in 2009, too. Not
expired stock.

I think I've stumbled into a debate. Which brand
of battery.


Strange, I thought this was 2010; The Year We Made
Contact.

2009 should have been LAST year.

Have had the same with name-brand cells in AA
Mini-Maglites. Only
there, the switch "cookie" at the end that the
reflector depresses
when screwed in to turn it on disintegrates, turns
to gray powder.

CY: Not sure what you mean.

Maglite sells switch kits with the tool to remove
the old one and
install the new for a couple of bucks plus
shipping, you can get just
about every piece on any of the flashlights from
the company as
spares. Prices are pretty reasonable, too.

cY: I just screw the lens head off, pop the bulb
out, and pull the switch apart with my finger
nails.

Very nice when the cap
gets chewed up from being dropped or the lens ring
gets dinged. Not
enough room in a Mini-Maglite to put a protective
plastic sleeve in
around the battery stack.

CY: Mine, the Rayovac rechargables are loose
enough to rattle.

Have had to make up a midget slide-hammer
puller to get batteries out of them after one
leaked, really messy
job. Once the switch is out, it's just a tube and
regular nylon bore
brushes with some vinegar gets the crap out, then
a whirl with some
wet or dry gets the thing shined up for next time.

CY: Sounds like good cleaning. I didn't think of
bore brushes, though I've used pipe cleaning
brushes like for copper pipe soldering.

Stan

"Erik" wrote in message
...
I've noticed elevated temperatures seem to greatly
accelerate corrosion
in batteries of every description... like leaving
flashlights, or
storing spare batteries in the car and/or in the
influence of other heat
sources.

CY: yes, heat does that.

For the record, I live in earthquake country and
personal experience
through the years has convinced me that wading
through debris in the
dark isn't fun anymore.

CY: I can imagine that. Strap on head lamp is a
good idea.

I have two Mini Mag's I've declared mission
critical, and dedicated to
quake emergency use only. One is between the
mattresses at the foot of
the bed (along with a good size white painted crow
bar). The other is in
a drawer near the front door. Both can be easily
located by feel in the
dark, and are placed so they can't roll or tumble
away.

CY: That sounds like good preparations. Please
consider adding a head lamp to your earthquake
lights.

To prevent corrosion 'surprises' I replace the
batteries in both every
two years, and have my Google calendar set up to
automatically remind
me. Both lights are also dated with PostIt tape as
a back up.

CY: What brand of battery do you like?

Of course I also have several other various lights
scattered around for
general use, including a robust little 'Pulsar'
LED keychain light with
momentary squeeze switch... perfect for quick
peeks, and finding a
'real' light should push ever come to shove. The
momentary switch works
extremely well at preventing accidental pocket
activations. Had it for 6
or 7 years... replaced the batteries twice IIRC.

CY: i have squeeze lights on the zipper pulls of
my emergency bags. Wh ich remidns me, I've got to
replace the squeeze lights one day soon.

What I'd like is battery technology that will
(economically) allow
flashlights and the like to be stowed corrosion
free, long term in
warm/hot environments... like car interiors.

CY: Not economical, but I wonder if the Energizer
lithium batteries do well in hot climaes?

Erik

That sounds like wisdom. I'd have to read the
package on those Advance. You're likelly right.

--
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..


"Joe" wrote in message
...

One thing I've concluded after several years
experience is that all
Chinese made batteries (primary cells, anyway) are
crap. It's not a
political issue for me, just lots of experience. I
prefer Duracell,
but I'll use any batteries that aren't made in
China. Their lower
price is negated by the shorter service they give,
plus they are
really prone to leaking. For a while we bought the
cheapies at work
(from Fastenal, as well as other vendors); that
ended up costing us
more in the long run. Lots of the AA cells even
would leak while still
in the wrapper. Back to the good stuff now.

Maybe the Advance brand is from "over yonder".

Joe

On Wed, 17 Feb 2010 23:42:14 -0500, GeoLane at PTD dot NET
GeoLane at PTD dot NET wrote:

snip
Rayovac is the one major brand I don't trust. I had a Rayovac AAA
leak in my autodarkening welding helmet. Given my druthers I get
Duracell or EverReady's

I've had both Duracell and Energizer batteries leak and ruin
flashlights and other stuff. If it is really bad damage I
pack it up and send it to them. Received a $20 check for my
ruined Mini-Mag (back when they used to sell for that much)
and another time they sent me a replacement battery operated
35mm slide viewer. If the damage is only minor I clean it up
myself. These were batteries that still had a good charge
and were within their "use by dates" (shrug).

So far I haven't had any serious problem with Rayovac. I
always try to buy batteries that have a damaged device
replacement warranties...

--
Leon Fisk
Grand Rapids MI/Zone 5b
Remove no.spam for email

CY: That sounds like good preparations. Please
consider adding a head lamp to your earthquake
lights.

I have a few headlamps and other lights around I use and maintain
regularly... my master plan for the Mini Mags is to insure initial light
so I won't be stumbling through debris looking for more suitable light.
The Mini Mags are located near where I am 90% of the time at home.

By the way, both Mini Mags were in place, and got a good bit of use
following the 94 Northridge quake... our area of town was 'power free'
for 4 days following that one. I carried a MM around 24/7 for months
after Northridge.

To prevent corrosion 'surprises' I replace the
batteries in both every
two years, and have my Google calendar set up to
automatically remind
me. Both lights are also dated with PostIt tape as
a back up.

CY: What brand of battery do you like?

I like Duracell, but have also used a lot of Radio Shack batteries with
no problems... I think keeping them cool and fresh is the main key to
reliable battery powered devices.

Erik wrote in news:spam-E12698.02131918022010
@news.dslextreme.com:

I have two Mini Mag's I've declared mission critical, and dedicated to
quake emergency use only. One is between the mattresses at the foot of
the bed (along with a good size white painted crow bar). snip


Curious if the white paint is significant. I understand painting the usual
bare metal found at the ends of the bar for corrosion staining on linens
but is the color meaningful in some way?

Charles U Farley wrote:
Erik wrote in news:spam-E12698.02131918022010
@news.dslextreme.com:

I have two Mini Mag's I've declared mission critical, and dedicated
to quake emergency use only. One is between the mattresses at the
foot of the bed (along with a good size white painted crow bar).
snip


Curious if the white paint is significant. I understand painting the
usual bare metal found at the ends of the bar for corrosion staining
on linens but is the color meaningful in some way?

easier to find in dim light

On Wed, 17 Feb 2010 22:50:18 -0800 (PST), the infamous
scrawled the following:

On Feb 17, 7:08*am, "Stormin Mormon"
wrote:
I recently had a battery corrode in my black

--
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Demons
*www.lds.org
.

If you guys are going to quote the Jayzussfreaks, please snip their
sigs first. Thank you.

--
"Just think of the tragedy of teaching children not to doubt."
-- Clarence Darrow

In article ,
"chaniarts" wrote:

Charles U Farley wrote:
Erik wrote in news:spam-E12698.02131918022010
@news.dslextreme.com:

I have two Mini Mag's I've declared mission critical, and dedicated
to quake emergency use only. One is between the mattresses at the
foot of the bed (along with a good size white painted crow bar).
snip


Curious if the white paint is significant. I understand painting the
usual bare metal found at the ends of the bar for corrosion staining
on linens but is the color meaningful in some way?

easier to find in dim light

Exactly!

Erik

On Wed, 17 Feb 2010 20:01:14 -0500, "Stormin Mormon"
wrote:

If dropped? I can't remember if this one was
dropped. I wonder if that's a pattern?

Quite possibly. Many alkaline cells have a very different
construction from the older plain-vanilla (Leclance) cells. The
Leclance cell has a carbon rod in the middle, a zinc can, and
manganese dioxide plus ammonium chloride in between. Many alkaline
cells use a can pressed from carbon and whatnot, a zinc rod in the
middle, and an alkaline mixture containing fine zinc between. Dropping
an alkaline cell might fracture that outside can, leading to leakage.

Please wear good rubber gloves and proper eye protection before
attempting to saw open an alkaline cell. The KOH in those cells is
nothing to snicker at.

Best -- Terry

I carry a mini mag and a squeeze light when I'm up
and about. And a short light with three AAA cells
in my nightrobe pocket.

20 years ago, a RS guy told me Duracell is the
company that makes RS batteries. Could easily have
changed.

Thinking I should sticker outside the Mag Light,
as to what brand of batteries contained. In case
they leak and the light is unsavable.

--
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..


"Erik" wrote in message
...


By the way, both Mini Mags were in place, and got
a good bit of use
following the 94 Northridge quake... our area of
town was 'power free'
for 4 days following that one. I carried a MM
around 24/7 for months
after Northridge.

I like Duracell, but have also used a lot of Radio
Shack batteries with
no problems... I think keeping them cool and fresh
is the main key to
reliable battery powered devices.

The old carbon cells. If you pull them apart, the
zinc can comes apart fairly easily with diagonal
side cutting pliers. The carbon rod is good for
writing on sidewalks. And the manganese dioxide
will make your Mom yell at you about the mess
(this, I know...)

Never been urged to saw open an alkaline cell. I'm
sure you are right.

--
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..


"Terry" wrote in message
...

Many alkaline cells have a very different
construction from the older plain-vanilla
(Leclance) cells. The
Leclance cell has a carbon rod in the middle, a
zinc can, and
manganese dioxide plus ammonium chloride in
between. Many alkaline
cells use a can pressed from carbon and whatnot, a
zinc rod in the
middle, and an alkaline mixture containing fine
zinc between. Dropping
an alkaline cell might fracture that outside can,
leading to leakage.

Please wear good rubber gloves and proper eye
protection before
attempting to saw open an alkaline cell. The KOH
in those cells is
nothing to snicker at.

Best -- Terry