I wonder if a condom could be used to protect
D-cells? I mean, it likely can, but not sure how
practical that is. Poke a hole in the one end....
and expect some strange looks at the time of your
next battery change. The plastic binder stuff
proably better, anyway.

The LED module may be still usable, on your next
Minimag or equivilant.

My Rayovac AA NiMH cells sometimes rattle in my
minimag. A little electric tape on the battery
helps.

I used some Ox Gard or some brand of grey gook on
the threads. (I jokingly call it Ox Gored, an Old
Testament reference.)

--
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..


"Wild_Bill" wrote in
message
...
Completely dead non-rechargeable batteries will
generally always leak (and
those with manufacturing defects, prematurely
dead).
With all the advancements in common batteries,
apparently not much attention
has been given to making them completely
leakproof.
I'm aware that most brand name cells guarantee
their cells won't leak, but
I've never bothered sending any damaged items in
for repair or replacement.

My trusty 20+ year old Brinkmann which uses 2 AAs
just had a bad case of
leaky alkaline cells recently. I suspect the head
rotated in the toolbox
enough to turn it on and kill the batteries
completely dead, then they
leaked badly.

There was so much leakage and corrosion that the
cells wouldn't push out
until I put vinegar in the body tube and let it
soak for maybe 2 hours, then
forced them out with a hardwood dowel rod.

After cleaning up the damage and crystaline crap,
I found out that one of
the brass contacts for the bulb pins had corroded
away.
I could probably make a new conact from a small
cable connecor contact or
other small part, but I just bagged the parts and
put 'em in a box.
I have enough good flashlighs that I shoulda
retired the Brinkmann years
ago. I kept using it because I'd put one of the
Nite Ize 3-LED conversion
lamps in it.

In C or D cell flashlights, there is often enough
oversize in the I.D. to be
able to wrap some plastic film around the
batteries to form a barrier (that
thin clear stuff sold as page protectors for
3-ring binders). That may
minimize the housing damage if the leak is in the
center, and it's
discovered soon enough.

I generally always use the plastic film wrap just
because I don't like the
batteries rattling in the housing, which generally
causes changes in the
level of light output (although I use Caig DeoxIT
grease/paste on all the
contacts and housing threads).

--
WB
..........


"Stormin Mormon"
wrote in
message
...
I recently had a battery corrode in my black
4D cell Mag light. Old style bulb, if that's
relevant.

The 4D mag light by my front door was dead. I
managed to get the tail cap off (two big pipe
wrenches) and find the bottom battery had
corroded. Brand new battery, Endurance, from
Advance Auto Parts. After considerable scrubbing
and sanding, the light works again. I'm leaving
it
in peices over night to dry. Then load up with
four Rayovac cells, and a shot of grease on the
tail cap threads.

The 4D mag is my "grab and go" light, in case I
need to go some where in a hurry.

It was only happy coincidence that I found the
corroded battery. Might have been there for
years, if I'd not needed the light for a bulb
test.

Since that time, others have told me that
batteries
corrode only in D cell mags, and typically the
battery next to the tail cap. Has anyone else
had this happen? Is it a common problem?

--
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
.