I found myself in need to cut 1/2" mild steel plate today. The cut was about
4-3/4".
I tried first with my only reciprocating saw which is 18V cordless and a
Lenox 18 tpi blade (the only one I had on hand). The cut progressed very
slowly. I thought I would try my Bosch 1590 jig-saw not expecting much
(Bosch do not recommend use beyond 3/8") and I was not disappointed: It was
even worse. In the end I did most of the cut using a hacksaw with 18 tpi
blade (A DeWalt past its prime). This in fact was the fastest way and also
the cleanest (except for the mess that the lubricating wax makes :-).

I specifically avoided using a 4-1/2" cut-off wheel in my grinder: I find
those things very messy and hard to control. This policy was vindicated when
I tried to cut off a couple of the corners of the said plate. It was not
that fast either.

Oddly enough I find using the hacksaw less fatiguing than any of the other
tools: something about the better posture and rhythmic dynamic movement as
opposed to having to hold a vibrating tool still.

Although I do not expect to have to cut this sort of material in future very
often it got me thinking: Say one needed an even longer cut - 6" to 8". What
would be a good low cost ($200) alternative:
1) A corded recip saw with a 14 tpi blade - something like Milwaukee 6563-21
for $200
2) A portable band saw - no name off EBay for $110 including shipping. This
will cut only 4-1/2 by 4-1/2" so presumably the cut would have to be done
from two directions.
3) Put a abrasive disk in a circular saw with a decent motor and an all
metal construction (I could not do that today with my cordless as the guards
are plastic) - all for less than $100.

Thanks,

--
Michael Koblic,
Campbell River, BC

Michael Koblic wrote:
I found myself in need to cut 1/2" mild steel plate today. The cut was about
4-3/4".
I tried first with my only reciprocating saw which is 18V cordless and a
Lenox 18 tpi blade (the only one I had on hand). The cut progressed very
slowly. I thought I would try my Bosch 1590 jig-saw not expecting much
(Bosch do not recommend use beyond 3/8") and I was not disappointed: It was
even worse. In the end I did most of the cut using a hacksaw with 18 tpi
blade (A DeWalt past its prime). This in fact was the fastest way and also
the cleanest (except for the mess that the lubricating wax makes :-).

I specifically avoided using a 4-1/2" cut-off wheel in my grinder: I find
those things very messy and hard to control. This policy was vindicated when
I tried to cut off a couple of the corners of the said plate. It was not
that fast either.

Oddly enough I find using the hacksaw less fatiguing than any of the other
tools: something about the better posture and rhythmic dynamic movement as
opposed to having to hold a vibrating tool still.

Although I do not expect to have to cut this sort of material in future very
often it got me thinking: Say one needed an even longer cut - 6" to 8". What
would be a good low cost ($200) alternative:
1) A corded recip saw with a 14 tpi blade - something like Milwaukee 6563-21
for $200
2) A portable band saw - no name off EBay for $110 including shipping. This
will cut only 4-1/2 by 4-1/2" so presumably the cut would have to be done
from two directions.
3) Put a abrasive disk in a circular saw with a decent motor and an all
metal construction (I could not do that today with my cordless as the guards
are plastic) - all for less than $100.

Thanks,


A worm drive 7-1/4" saw with a Tenryu or Matsu****a blade will cut through
plate like butter. Google this group on tenryu and you will see ..

Grant

Michael Koblic wrote:
I found myself in need to cut 1/2" mild steel plate today. The cut was about
4-3/4".
....
For straight cuts, check out 319-4083

http://www.use-enco.com/CGI/INPDFF?P...MITEM=319-4083

Alternatively, you could put a ferrous metal cutting blade in
your worm drive circular saw. Note that non-worm saws don't
have the mustard for this kind of duty.

NON-optional safety gear

* Use hearing and eyeball protection! This is not a
quiet operation but it is a little cleaner than a
chop saw.
* Use gloves!
* Use long sleeves and protect yourself from high -
velocity steel swarf.
* Lubricate cut with wax

It works surprisingly fast and leaves a straight non - HAZ cut.

--Winston

On Tue, 2 Sep 2008 21:20:51 -0700, "Michael Koblic"
wrote:

I found myself in need to cut 1/2" mild steel plate today. The cut was about
4-3/4".
I tried first with my only reciprocating saw which is 18V cordless and a
Lenox 18 tpi blade (the only one I had on hand). The cut progressed very
slowly. I thought I would try my Bosch 1590 jig-saw not expecting much
(Bosch do not recommend use beyond 3/8") and I was not disappointed: It was
even worse. In the end I did most of the cut using a hacksaw with 18 tpi
blade (A DeWalt past its prime). This in fact was the fastest way and also
the cleanest (except for the mess that the lubricating wax makes :-).

I specifically avoided using a 4-1/2" cut-off wheel in my grinder: I find
those things very messy and hard to control. This policy was vindicated when
I tried to cut off a couple of the corners of the said plate. It was not
that fast either.

Oddly enough I find using the hacksaw less fatiguing than any of the other
tools: something about the better posture and rhythmic dynamic movement as
opposed to having to hold a vibrating tool still.

Although I do not expect to have to cut this sort of material in future very
often it got me thinking: Say one needed an even longer cut - 6" to 8". What
would be a good low cost ($200) alternative:
1) A corded recip saw with a 14 tpi blade - something like Milwaukee 6563-21
for $200
2) A portable band saw - no name off EBay for $110 including shipping. This
will cut only 4-1/2 by 4-1/2" so presumably the cut would have to be done
from two directions.
3) Put a abrasive disk in a circular saw with a decent motor and an all
metal construction (I could not do that today with my cordless as the guards
are plastic) - all for less than $100.

Thanks,


Keep in mind that a reciprocating saw only cuts in one direction..the
other half of the time its reversing. And its a bit hard on the blades
for this reason.

You want faster? Buy a bandsaw, or a Portaband

Gunner

"Obama, raises taxes and kills babies. Sarah Palin - raises babies
and kills taxes." Pyotr Flipivich

Michael Koblic wrote:
I found myself in need to cut 1/2" mild steel plate today. The cut was about
4-3/4".
I tried first with my only reciprocating saw which is 18V cordless and a
Lenox 18 tpi blade (the only one I had on hand). The cut progressed very
slowly. I thought I would try my Bosch 1590 jig-saw not expecting much
(Bosch do not recommend use beyond 3/8") and I was not disappointed: It was
even worse. In the end I did most of the cut using a hacksaw with 18 tpi
blade (A DeWalt past its prime). This in fact was the fastest way and also
the cleanest (except for the mess that the lubricating wax makes :-).

I specifically avoided using a 4-1/2" cut-off wheel in my grinder: I find
those things very messy and hard to control. This policy was vindicated when
I tried to cut off a couple of the corners of the said plate. It was not
that fast either.

Oddly enough I find using the hacksaw less fatiguing than any of the other
tools: something about the better posture and rhythmic dynamic movement as
opposed to having to hold a vibrating tool still.

It is fun to just chew though something random with a hacksaw every now
and then.

Gunner Asch wrote:
On Tue, 2 Sep 2008 21:20:51 -0700, "Michael Koblic"
wrote:

I found myself in need to cut 1/2" mild steel plate today. The cut
was about 4-3/4".
I tried first with my only reciprocating saw ...

You want faster? Buy a bandsaw, or a Portaband

Gunner

"Obama, raises taxes and kills babies. Sarah Palin - raises babies
and kills taxes." Pyotr Flipivich

I picked up a used portaband at the pawn shop for under a c-note , then
built a stand to mount it as a vert saw from scrap . Biggest limitation for
me is it only makes straight cuts , I need curves sometimes . I can buzz
thru a piece of 4140 stock over 2" diameter in a couple of minutes , using a
HF variable pitch band (three for twenty bucks or so ).
--
Snag
'90 Ultra "Strider"
'39 WLDD "Popcycle"
Buncha cars and a truck

I cut most stuff with my mill these days.
--
Due to extreme spam originating from Google Groups, and their inattention
to spammers, I and many others block all articles originating
from Google Groups. If you want your postings to be seen by
more readers you will need to find a different means of
posting on Usenet.
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On Wed, 03 Sep 2008 05:32:49 GMT, with neither quill nor qualm,
Winston quickly quoth:

Michael Koblic wrote:
I found myself in need to cut 1/2" mild steel plate today. The cut was about
4-3/4".
...
For straight cuts, check out 319-4083

http://www.use-enco.com/CGI/INPDFF?P...MITEM=319-4083

Alternatively, you could put a ferrous metal cutting blade in
your worm drive circular saw. Note that non-worm saws don't
have the mustard for this kind of duty.

If you're looking for something to build timberframe homes with, a
worm drive is it. Here's a nice little beauty of a Makita, a
16-15/16" circular saw. thud

Tawm, take one of these to your spare warehouse, take it down by hand,
and sell the lumber!

--
The best and safest thing is to keep a balance in your life,
acknowledge the great powers around us and in us. If you can
do that, and live that way, you are really a wise man.
-- Euripides

I would say that the 4 1/2" abrasive disk is the worst choice of all for
cutting thick materials that are wide, where the abrasive wheel is more
or less buried in the stock. ---Especially when hand-held.
A 14" chop saw, although messy, can be a good choice for
(solid)rounds, squares and rectangles, up to about 2" X 2" in my mind.
Tubes can be even bigger, since the wheel isn't in contact with all
that much material. the big problem, (again, in my mind) is that when
cutting materials where the wheel is deep in the material, the sides of
the wheel rub in the cut. This makes the wheel slightly tapered from
the cutting edge back toward the saw arbor. So, as the wheel goes
deeper, not only does the edge of the wheel cut, but the sides have to
cut as well to widen the cut to accept the thickest part of the wheel.
This takes a LOT of power and therefore, cutting action almost stops!


For cutting jobs as you have there, I use a "gas ax"; (oxy-propane
cutting torch). It doesn't care whether you are going straight or
curving. Plan for the rough kerf (depends on your skill level) and
grind to finish.

For the occasional cut, take the piece to a local fab shop. The one I
usually use considers 1/2" thick plate to be "sheet metal" and shears
it. One "thunk" and it's done.

I have a Porta band and like it a lot where it fits the work.

The saw that gets the most use in my shop is the 4X6 horizontal/vertical
band saw.

One other approach is the do the cutting on a horizontal milling
machine, using a slitting saw. There, you are only limited by the X
length of the table traverse.

Pete Stanaitis
---------------------------------

Ignoramus27629 wrote:

I cut most stuff with my mill these days.

How?

On 2008-09-03, Grant Erwin wrote:
Ignoramus27629 wrote:

I cut most stuff with my mill these days.

How?

Let's say that I want to cut a pipe, I put it in a vise and cut it
with an endmill.

--
Due to extreme spam originating from Google Groups, and their inattention
to spammers, I and many others block all articles originating
from Google Groups. If you want your postings to be seen by
more readers you will need to find a different means of
posting on Usenet.
http://improve-usenet.org/

Ignoramus27629 wrote:
On 2008-09-03, Grant Erwin wrote:
Ignoramus27629 wrote:

I cut most stuff with my mill these days.

How?

Let's say that I want to cut a pipe, I put it in a vise and cut it
with an endmill.

When I want to drive a screw, I put a screwdriver in a vise and rotate the
work around it with my lathe.

I have very clever techniques.

On 2008-09-03, Cydrome Leader wrote:
Ignoramus27629 wrote:
On 2008-09-03, Grant Erwin wrote:
Ignoramus27629 wrote:

I cut most stuff with my mill these days.

How?

Let's say that I want to cut a pipe, I put it in a vise and cut it
with an endmill.

When I want to drive a screw, I put a screwdriver in a vise and rotate the
work around it with my lathe.

I have very clever techniques.

I thought you used a hacksaw to cut that 1/2" thick plate? Are you
done yet?
--
Due to extreme spam originating from Google Groups, and their inattention
to spammers, I and many others block all articles originating
from Google Groups. If you want your postings to be seen by
more readers you will need to find a different means of
posting on Usenet.
http://improve-usenet.org/

Ignoramus27629 wrote:
On 2008-09-03, Cydrome Leader wrote:
Ignoramus27629 wrote:
On 2008-09-03, Grant Erwin wrote:
Ignoramus27629 wrote:

I cut most stuff with my mill these days.

How?

Let's say that I want to cut a pipe, I put it in a vise and cut it
with an endmill.

When I want to drive a screw, I put a screwdriver in a vise and rotate the
work around it with my lathe.

I have very clever techniques.

I thought you used a hacksaw to cut that 1/2" thick plate? Are you
done yet?

As usual, you're confusing me for somebody else, but cutting 1/2" mild
steel with a hacksaw isn't an impossible for anybody that can actually
handle a hacksaw, or actually knows how to use tools.

On 2008-09-03, Cydrome Leader wrote:
Ignoramus27629 wrote:
On 2008-09-03, Cydrome Leader wrote:
Ignoramus27629 wrote:
On 2008-09-03, Grant Erwin wrote:
Ignoramus27629 wrote:

I cut most stuff with my mill these days.

How?

Let's say that I want to cut a pipe, I put it in a vise and cut it
with an endmill.

When I want to drive a screw, I put a screwdriver in a vise and rotate the
work around it with my lathe.

I have very clever techniques.

I thought you used a hacksaw to cut that 1/2" thick plate? Are you
done yet?

As usual, you're confusing me for somebody else, but cutting 1/2" mild
steel with a hacksaw isn't an impossible for anybody that can actually
handle a hacksaw, or actually knows how to use tools.

I can give you a piece of 1/2" plate, for free. You use your hacksaw
to cut it and come back when you are done. I will give you a free
virtual pat on the back.

--
Due to extreme spam originating from Google Groups, and their inattention
to spammers, I and many others block all articles originating
from Google Groups. If you want your postings to be seen by
more readers you will need to find a different means of
posting on Usenet.
http://improve-usenet.org/

Ignoramus27629 wrote:
On 2008-09-03, Cydrome Leader wrote:
Ignoramus27629 wrote:
On 2008-09-03, Cydrome Leader wrote:
Ignoramus27629 wrote:
On 2008-09-03, Grant Erwin wrote:
Ignoramus27629 wrote:

I cut most stuff with my mill these days.

How?

Let's say that I want to cut a pipe, I put it in a vise and cut it
with an endmill.

When I want to drive a screw, I put a screwdriver in a vise and rotate the
work around it with my lathe.

I have very clever techniques.

I thought you used a hacksaw to cut that 1/2" thick plate? Are you
done yet?

As usual, you're confusing me for somebody else, but cutting 1/2" mild
steel with a hacksaw isn't an impossible for anybody that can actually
handle a hacksaw, or actually knows how to use tools.

I can give you a piece of 1/2" plate, for free. You use your hacksaw
to cut it and come back when you are done. I will give you a free
virtual pat on the back.

I don't want to take your time, afer all you're probably going to be busy
painting a large resistor.

On 2008-09-03, Cydrome Leader wrote:
Ignoramus27629 wrote:
On 2008-09-03, Cydrome Leader wrote:
Ignoramus27629 wrote:
On 2008-09-03, Cydrome Leader wrote:
Ignoramus27629 wrote:
On 2008-09-03, Grant Erwin wrote:
Ignoramus27629 wrote:

I cut most stuff with my mill these days.

How?

Let's say that I want to cut a pipe, I put it in a vise and cut it
with an endmill.

When I want to drive a screw, I put a screwdriver in a vise and rotate the
work around it with my lathe.

I have very clever techniques.

I thought you used a hacksaw to cut that 1/2" thick plate? Are you
done yet?

As usual, you're confusing me for somebody else, but cutting 1/2" mild
steel with a hacksaw isn't an impossible for anybody that can actually
handle a hacksaw, or actually knows how to use tools.

I can give you a piece of 1/2" plate, for free. You use your hacksaw
to cut it and come back when you are done. I will give you a free
virtual pat on the back.

I don't want to take your time, afer all you're probably going to be busy
painting a large resistor.

I think that you are very important. So I can give you a little bit of
my time.

--
Due to extreme spam originating from Google Groups, and their inattention
to spammers, I and many others block all articles originating
from Google Groups. If you want your postings to be seen by
more readers you will need to find a different means of
posting on Usenet.
http://improve-usenet.org/

On Wed, 03 Sep 2008 05:25:11 -0700, with neither quill nor qualm,
Larry Jaques quickly quoth:

On Wed, 03 Sep 2008 05:32:49 GMT, with neither quill nor qualm,
Winston quickly quoth:

Michael Koblic wrote:
I found myself in need to cut 1/2" mild steel plate today. The cut was about
4-3/4".
...
For straight cuts, check out 319-4083

http://www.use-enco.com/CGI/INPDFF?P...MITEM=319-4083

Alternatively, you could put a ferrous metal cutting blade in
your worm drive circular saw. Note that non-worm saws don't
have the mustard for this kind of duty.

If you're looking for something to build timberframe homes with, a
worm drive is it. Here's a nice little beauty of a Makita, a
16-15/16" circular saw. thud

Tawm, take one of these to your spare warehouse, take it down by hand,
and sell the lumber!

It'd be nice if I'd link it, huh? blush So solly!
http://tinyurl.com/5ue7jj

--
The best and safest thing is to keep a balance in your life,
acknowledge the great powers around us and in us. If you can
do that, and live that way, you are really a wise man.
-- Euripides

Ignoramus27629 wrote:

On 2008-09-03, Grant Erwin wrote:

Ignoramus27629 wrote:


I cut most stuff with my mill these days.

How?


Let's say that I want to cut a pipe, I put it in a vise and cut it
with an endmill.


So you have e.g. a 1/2" kerf?

I'm just asking - unlike other posters I'm trying very hard to be
friendly and keep the spirit of community alive.

Grant

Larry Jaques wrote:


It'd be nice if I'd link it, huh? blush So solly!
http://tinyurl.com/5ue7jj

Borat liiiiike.

--Winston

On 2008-09-03, Grant Erwin wrote:
Ignoramus27629 wrote:

On 2008-09-03, Grant Erwin wrote:

Ignoramus27629 wrote:


I cut most stuff with my mill these days.

How?


Let's say that I want to cut a pipe, I put it in a vise and cut it
with an endmill.


So you have e.g. a 1/2" kerf?

On one end, yes, as big as the end mill. The other end (that is held
in the vise) is clean.

The advantage is that it is a quiet process, e.g. I can do it at
midnight when everyone is sleeping.

i

I'm just asking - unlike other posters I'm trying very hard to be
friendly and keep the spirit of community alive.

Grant

--
Due to extreme spam originating from Google Groups, and their inattention
to spammers, I and many others block all articles originating
from Google Groups. If you want your postings to be seen by
more readers you will need to find a different means of
posting on Usenet.
http://improve-usenet.org/

On Wed, 03 Sep 2008 18:48:51 GMT, with neither quill nor qualm, Grant
Erwin quickly quoth:

Ignoramus27629 wrote:

On 2008-09-03, Grant Erwin wrote:

Ignoramus27629 wrote:


I cut most stuff with my mill these days.

How?


Let's say that I want to cut a pipe, I put it in a vise and cut it
with an endmill.


So you have e.g. a 1/2" kerf?

I'm just asking - unlike other posters I'm trying very hard to be
friendly and keep the spirit of community alive.

I saw the metal-cutting table saw at HF today, on sale for $80.
That leaves only a 1/8" kerf and is likely MUCH quicker.

--
The best and safest thing is to keep a balance in your life,
acknowledge the great powers around us and in us. If you can
do that, and live that way, you are really a wise man.
-- Euripides

On Wed, 03 Sep 2008 19:01:44 GMT, with neither quill nor qualm,
Winston quickly quoth:

Larry Jaques wrote:


It'd be nice if I'd link it, huh? blush So solly!
http://tinyurl.com/5ue7jj

Borat liiiiike.

Again, please, in English this time.

--
The best and safest thing is to keep a balance in your life,
acknowledge the great powers around us and in us. If you can
do that, and live that way, you are really a wise man.
-- Euripides

On 2008-09-04, Larry Jaques novalidaddress@di wrote:
On Wed, 03 Sep 2008 18:48:51 GMT, with neither quill nor qualm, Grant
Erwin quickly quoth:

Ignoramus27629 wrote:

On 2008-09-03, Grant Erwin wrote:

Ignoramus27629 wrote:


I cut most stuff with my mill these days.

How?


Let's say that I want to cut a pipe, I put it in a vise and cut it
with an endmill.


So you have e.g. a 1/2" kerf?

I'm just asking - unlike other posters I'm trying very hard to be
friendly and keep the spirit of community alive.

I saw the metal-cutting table saw at HF today, on sale for $80.
That leaves only a 1/8" kerf and is likely MUCH quicker.


And a lot noisier.
--
Due to extreme spam originating from Google Groups, and their inattention
to spammers, I and many others block all articles originating
from Google Groups. If you want your postings to be seen by
more readers you will need to find a different means of
posting on Usenet.
http://improve-usenet.org/

Winston wrote:
....
NON-optional safety gear ...

And watch where those red-hot chips are flying. You can set something
on fire! BTDT

Bob
--
Nota for President

Ignoramus27629 wrote:
On 2008-09-04, Larry Jaques novalidaddress@di wrote:
On Wed, 03 Sep 2008 18:48:51 GMT, with neither quill nor qualm, Grant
Erwin quickly quoth:

Ignoramus27629 wrote:

On 2008-09-03, Grant Erwin wrote:

Ignoramus27629 wrote:


I cut most stuff with my mill these days.

How?


Let's say that I want to cut a pipe, I put it in a vise and cut it
with an endmill.


So you have e.g. a 1/2" kerf?

I'm just asking - unlike other posters I'm trying very hard to be
friendly and keep the spirit of community alive.

I saw the metal-cutting table saw at HF today, on sale for $80.
That leaves only a 1/8" kerf and is likely MUCH quicker.


And a lot noisier.

I gotta say , my $75 pawnshop portaband (with mods for vert use) is
quieter than my mill , gives less waste , and is lots quicker ...
--
Snag
'90 Ultra "Strider"
'39 WLDD "Popcycle"
Buncha cars and a truck

On 2008-09-04, Terry Coombs wrote:
Ignoramus27629 wrote:
On 2008-09-04, Larry Jaques novalidaddress@di wrote:
On Wed, 03 Sep 2008 18:48:51 GMT, with neither quill nor qualm, Grant
Erwin quickly quoth:

Ignoramus27629 wrote:

On 2008-09-03, Grant Erwin wrote:

Ignoramus27629 wrote:


I cut most stuff with my mill these days.

How?


Let's say that I want to cut a pipe, I put it in a vise and cut it
with an endmill.


So you have e.g. a 1/2" kerf?

I'm just asking - unlike other posters I'm trying very hard to be
friendly and keep the spirit of community alive.

I saw the metal-cutting table saw at HF today, on sale for $80.
That leaves only a 1/8" kerf and is likely MUCH quicker.


And a lot noisier.

I gotta say , my $75 pawnshop portaband (with mods for vert use) is
quieter than my mill , gives less waste , and is lots quicker ...

What kind of mill do you have?
--
Due to extreme spam originating from Google Groups, and their inattention
to spammers, I and many others block all articles originating
from Google Groups. If you want your postings to be seen by
more readers you will need to find a different means of
posting on Usenet.
http://improve-usenet.org/

Ignoramus27629 wrote:
On 2008-09-04, Terry Coombs wrote:
Ignoramus27629 wrote:
On 2008-09-04, Larry Jaques novalidaddress@di wrote:
On Wed, 03 Sep 2008 18:48:51 GMT, with neither quill nor qualm,
Grant Erwin quickly quoth:

Ignoramus27629 wrote:

On 2008-09-03, Grant Erwin wrote:

Ignoramus27629 wrote:


I cut most stuff with my mill these days.

How?


Let's say that I want to cut a pipe, I put it in a vise and cut
it with an endmill.


So you have e.g. a 1/2" kerf?

I'm just asking - unlike other posters I'm trying very hard to be
friendly and keep the spirit of community alive.

I saw the metal-cutting table saw at HF today, on sale for $80.
That leaves only a 1/8" kerf and is likely MUCH quicker.


And a lot noisier.

I gotta say , my $75 pawnshop portaband (with mods for vert use) is
quieter than my mill , gives less waste , and is lots quicker ...

What kind of mill do you have?

I picked up an RF45 clone a couple of months ago (gear drive , square
dovetail column , 9X32 bed and 800 pounds) . Biggest my limited space (well
, and budget) would allow . You would not believe what I got stuffed into my
8 X 12 foot shed ... pretty much a complete mini-machine shop .
--
Snag
'90 Ultra "Strider"
'39 WLDD "Popcycle"
Buncha cars and a truck

Larry Jaques wrote:
On Wed, 03 Sep 2008 19:01:44 GMT, with neither quill nor qualm,
Winston quickly quoth:


Larry Jaques wrote:


It'd be nice if I'd link it, huh? blush So solly!
http://tinyurl.com/5ue7jj

Borat liiiiike.


Again, please, in English this time.

I say, Larry old chap.

Your selection of portable circular saw struck me as the
sort of tool that would be useful and decorative.

I found myself thinking "why, if I needed to cut up some
6 x 6 lumber in one pass, this would be a most efficient
way to do it."

Well done, old boy!

--Winston

On Wed, 03 Sep 2008 21:54:49 -0500, with neither quill nor qualm,
Ignoramus27629 quickly quoth:

On 2008-09-04, Terry Coombs wrote:
Ignoramus27629 wrote:
On 2008-09-04, Larry Jaques novalidaddress@di wrote:
On Wed, 03 Sep 2008 18:48:51 GMT, with neither quill nor qualm, Grant
Erwin quickly quoth:

Ignoramus27629 wrote:

On 2008-09-03, Grant Erwin wrote:

Ignoramus27629 wrote:


I cut most stuff with my mill these days.

How?


Let's say that I want to cut a pipe, I put it in a vise and cut it
with an endmill.


So you have e.g. a 1/2" kerf?

I'm just asking - unlike other posters I'm trying very hard to be
friendly and keep the spirit of community alive.

I saw the metal-cutting table saw at HF today, on sale for $80.
That leaves only a 1/8" kerf and is likely MUCH quicker.


And a lot noisier.

I gotta say , my $75 pawnshop portaband (with mods for vert use) is
quieter than my mill , gives less waste , and is lots quicker ...

What kind of mill do you have?

Obviously, a slow and noisy one. Prolly a Harley on a stand with a
collet holder or chuck welded onto the rear sprocket.

--
Who is wise? He that learns from every One.
Who is powerful? He that governs his Passions.
Who is rich? He that is content.
Who is that? Nobody.
-- Benjamin Franklin

On Thu, 04 Sep 2008 06:38:53 GMT, with neither quill nor qualm,
Winston quickly quoth:

Larry Jaques wrote:
On Wed, 03 Sep 2008 19:01:44 GMT, with neither quill nor qualm,
Winston quickly quoth:


Larry Jaques wrote:


It'd be nice if I'd link it, huh? blush So solly!
http://tinyurl.com/5ue7jj

Borat liiiiike.


Again, please, in English this time.

I say, Larry old chap.

Your selection of portable circular saw struck me as the
sort of tool that would be useful and decorative.

I found myself thinking "why, if I needed to cut up some
6 x 6 lumber in one pass, this would be a most efficient
way to do it."

Well done, old boy!

You said all that in two words? What language is that, Winston?

P.S: Thank you.

P.P.S: More Power! arr, arr, arr


--
Who is wise? He that learns from every One.
Who is powerful? He that governs his Passions.
Who is rich? He that is content.
Who is that? Nobody.
-- Benjamin Franklin

"Michael Koblic" wrote in message
...
I found myself in need to cut 1/2" mild steel plate today. The cut was
about 4-3/4".
I tried first with my only reciprocating saw which is 18V cordless and a
Lenox 18 tpi blade (the only one I had on hand). The cut progressed very
slowly. I thought I would try my Bosch 1590 jig-saw not expecting much
(Bosch do not recommend use beyond 3/8") and I was not disappointed: It
was even worse. In the end I did most of the cut using a hacksaw with 18
tpi blade (A DeWalt past its prime). This in fact was the fastest way and
also the cleanest (except for the mess that the lubricating wax makes :-).

I specifically avoided using a 4-1/2" cut-off wheel in my grinder: I find
those things very messy and hard to control. This policy was vindicated
when I tried to cut off a couple of the corners of the said plate. It was
not that fast either.

Oddly enough I find using the hacksaw less fatiguing than any of the other
tools: something about the better posture and rhythmic dynamic movement as
opposed to having to hold a vibrating tool still.

Although I do not expect to have to cut this sort of material in future
very often it got me thinking: Say one needed an even longer cut - 6" to
8". What would be a good low cost ($200) alternative:
1) A corded recip saw with a 14 tpi blade - something like Milwaukee
6563-21 for $200
2) A portable band saw - no name off EBay for $110 including shipping.
This will cut only 4-1/2 by 4-1/2" so presumably the cut would have to be
done from two directions.
3) Put a abrasive disk in a circular saw with a decent motor and an all
metal construction (I could not do that today with my cordless as the
guards are plastic) - all for less than $100.

Thanks,

I have a cheap Black & Decker 7 1/4" circular saw I have used for years with
an abrasive blade for cutting steel. I think I bought the saw at K-Mart for
29.95. 17 years ago. I never put a wood blade in that saw. All I use it
for is quick portable steel cuts. I don't know how long the blades would
last doing thicker stuff, but I have cut tons of lighter angler up 1/4" and
C-channel upto 4" with it.

Bob La Londe
www.YumaBassMan.com

"Grant Erwin" wrote in message
news:Mhpvk.408$jE1.383@trnddc03...
Michael Koblic wrote:

3) Put a abrasive disk in a circular saw with a decent motor and an all
metal construction (I could not do that today with my cordless as the
guards are plastic) - all for less than $100.

Thanks,


A worm drive 7-1/4" saw with a Tenryu or Matsu****a blade will cut through
plate like butter. Google this group on tenryu and you will see ..

Interesting. I have been using an fiber re-enforced abrasive blade in my
14" chop saw. They seem to last about the best of anything and cut ok. How
would one of these blades compare for speed? Is the durability enough to
make up for the cost. I mean would they last as long as 5 fiber abrasive
disks? 10? 20?

Do they need to be cooled with liquid? The local metal yard where I
occasionally buy a few pieces of steel has what looks like a 20" blade that
they keep cool with a white milky liquid that is recollected and filtered
below the feed table.

Bob La Londe
www.YumaBassMan.com

Ignoramus27629 wrote:
On 2008-09-03, Grant Erwin wrote:
Ignoramus27629 wrote:

On 2008-09-03, Grant Erwin wrote:

Ignoramus27629 wrote:


I cut most stuff with my mill these days.

How?


Let's say that I want to cut a pipe, I put it in a vise and cut it
with an endmill.


So you have e.g. a 1/2" kerf?

On one end, yes, as big as the end mill. The other end (that is held
in the vise) is clean.

This is similar to how I cut 2x4s. I lay on them with a belt sander until
it sands right through.

On Sep 2, 10:20*pm, "Michael Koblic" wrote:
I found myself in need to cut 1/2" mild steel plate today. The cut was about
4-3/4".
I tried first with my only reciprocating saw which is 18V cordless and a
Lenox 18 tpi blade (the only one I had on hand). The cut progressed very
slowly. I thought I would try my Bosch 1590 jig-saw not expecting much
(Bosch do not recommend use beyond 3/8") and I was not disappointed: It was
even worse. In the end I did most of the cut using a hacksaw with 18 tpi
blade (A DeWalt past its prime). This in fact was the fastest way and also
the cleanest (except for the mess that the lubricating wax makes :-).

I specifically avoided using a 4-1/2" cut-off wheel in *my grinder: I find
those things very messy and hard to control. This policy was vindicated when
I tried to cut off a couple of the corners of the said plate. It was not
that fast either.

Oddly enough I find using the hacksaw less fatiguing than any of the other
tools: something about the better posture and rhythmic dynamic movement as
opposed to having to hold a vibrating tool still.

Although I do not expect to have to cut this sort of material in future very
often it got me thinking: Say one needed an even longer cut - 6" to 8". What
would be a good low cost ($200) alternative:
1) A corded recip saw with a 14 tpi blade - something like Milwaukee 6563-21
for $200
2) A portable band saw - no name off EBay for $110 including shipping. This
will cut only 4-1/2 by 4-1/2" so presumably the cut would have to be done
from two directions.
3) Put a abrasive disk in a circular saw with a decent motor and an all
metal construction (I could not do that today with my cordless as the guards
are plastic) - all for less than $100.

Thanks,

--
Michael Koblic,
Campbell River, BC

My first choice would be the 4x6 bandsaw. You can use it in the
vertical position with the auxilary table for longer cuts as long as
the width of the offcut doesn't exceed the width of the throat. Not
fast but less taxing than a long hacksaw session would be. My HF cost
about $90 after discount and coupon, well worth it 8 years ago.

Stan

On Sep 4, 12:15*pm, wrote:

My first choice would be the 4x6 bandsaw. *You can use it in the
vertical position with the auxilary table for longer cuts as long as
the width of the offcut doesn't exceed the width of the throat. *Not
fast but less taxing than a long hacksaw session would be. *My HF cost
about $90 after discount and coupon, well worth it 8 years ago.

Stan

Mine too, as long as I know that it's mild steel without hardened
spots. Second choice is the abrasive chop saw which will cut or at
least not be damaged by hard steel. The cheap discount-store wheel on
it chokes at about 1" wide steel. Angle cuts well with the corner up
but not with one leg flat.

I used to think that the abrasive saw was better for thin tubing until
I tried cutting 3/4" conduit with a 14TPI blade on the bandsaw. I
lowered the head by hand slowly rather than using the counterbalanced
feed.

Making straight cuts in steel with a hacksaw isn't all that much effort for
most folks. Your cut probably would've gone quicker with a sharp blade and
fewer teeth per inch for 1/2" plate/bar.

Making a few cuts per day isn't so bad, but when you get involved in other
projects that require lots of material to be cut, hand sawing gets to be too
tedious.
That's when you'll appreciate the 4x6 bandsaw that several others have
recommended.

It's like having an obedient helper involved in the project.. so you can
drill, weld assemble or do other procedures while the saw just hums away,
getting the other materials ready.

WB
..........
metalworking projects
www.kwagmire.com/metal_proj.html


"Michael Koblic" wrote in message
...
I found myself in need to cut 1/2" mild steel plate today. The cut was
about 4-3/4".
I tried first with my only reciprocating saw which is 18V cordless and a
Lenox 18 tpi blade (the only one I had on hand). The cut progressed very
slowly. I thought I would try my Bosch 1590 jig-saw not expecting much
(Bosch do not recommend use beyond 3/8") and I was not disappointed: It
was even worse. In the end I did most of the cut using a hacksaw with 18
tpi blade (A DeWalt past its prime). This in fact was the fastest way and
also the cleanest (except for the mess that the lubricating wax makes :-).

I specifically avoided using a 4-1/2" cut-off wheel in my grinder: I find
those things very messy and hard to control. This policy was vindicated
when I tried to cut off a couple of the corners of the said plate. It was
not that fast either.

Oddly enough I find using the hacksaw less fatiguing than any of the other
tools: something about the better posture and rhythmic dynamic movement as
opposed to having to hold a vibrating tool still.

Although I do not expect to have to cut this sort of material in future
very often it got me thinking: Say one needed an even longer cut - 6" to
8". What would be a good low cost ($200) alternative:
1) A corded recip saw with a 14 tpi blade - something like Milwaukee
6563-21 for $200
2) A portable band saw - no name off EBay for $110 including shipping.
This will cut only 4-1/2 by 4-1/2" so presumably the cut would have to be
done from two directions.
3) Put a abrasive disk in a circular saw with a decent motor and an all
metal construction (I could not do that today with my cordless as the
guards are plastic) - all for less than $100.

Thanks,

--
Michael Koblic,
Campbell River, BC

Larry Jaques wrote:

....

You said all that in two words? What language is that, Winston?

It's pidgeon Kazakh, a highly compressed dialect.

The phrase 'Borat liiiiike' can only be translated as:

1) "Say, she's rather nice!"

2) "I say, Larry old chap. Your selection of portable
circular saw struck me as the sort of tool that
would be useful and decorative. I found myself
thinking "why, if I needed to cut up some
6 x 6 lumber in one pass, this would be a most
efficient way to do it.""


As you can imagine, the second definition is rarely employed.

--Winston

Larry Jaques wrote:
On Wed, 03 Sep 2008 21:54:49 -0500, with neither quill nor qualm,
Ignoramus27629 quickly quoth:

On 2008-09-04, Terry Coombs wrote:
Ignoramus27629 wrote:
On 2008-09-04, Larry Jaques novalidaddress@di wrote:
On Wed, 03 Sep 2008 18:48:51 GMT, with neither quill nor qualm,
Grant Erwin quickly quoth:

Ignoramus27629 wrote:

On 2008-09-03, Grant Erwin wrote:

Ignoramus27629 wrote:


I cut most stuff with my mill these days.

How?


Let's say that I want to cut a pipe, I put it in a vise and cut
it with an endmill.


So you have e.g. a 1/2" kerf?

I'm just asking - unlike other posters I'm trying very hard to be
friendly and keep the spirit of community alive.

I saw the metal-cutting table saw at HF today, on sale for $80.
That leaves only a 1/8" kerf and is likely MUCH quicker.


And a lot noisier.

I gotta say , my $75 pawnshop portaband (with mods for vert use)
is quieter than my mill , gives less waste , and is lots quicker ...

What kind of mill do you have?

Obviously, a slow and noisy one. Prolly a Harley on a stand with a
collet holder or chuck welded onto the rear sprocket.

Nah , they went belt drive in the late 80's ...
--
Snag
'90 Ultra "Strider"
'39 WLDD "Popcycle"
Buncha cars and a truck

Many thanks to all those who provided helpful suggestions, even those who
ignored the $200 limit :-)

To summarize:

1) Hacksaw with a lower tooth count - agreed wholeheartedly! Would you
believe that on the day in question there was no blade with less than 18 tpi
in town? I have since learned to hoard consumables. Also agree that for more
than an occasional cut this would get very old very quickly.

2) Abrasive disk - with many reservations but costwise very attractive: One
can often pick up old circular saws in garage sales and dedicate them to
this job.

3) Tenryu or similar blade. This piqued my interest. I e-mailed one of the
dealers. The Tenryu site was not exactly clear what kind of thickness these
blades can cope with - many were listed with outright limits such as 1/8" or
1/4". I am not sure that I got a clear answer but the implication was that
the right sort of blade would cut in a circular saw up to 1" thickness
without a worm drive. I shall look into this further.

4) Porta-band - although the method of making 8" cuts in a plate remains
unclear. I shall probably get one just for the hell of it and because I have
not bought a major tool for at least two weeks.

5) Stationary band saw if you live in the USA. Nothing here under $300.

I am eternally grateful that I live in the age of the internet and have
access to this group.

--
Michael Koblic,
Campbell River, BC


"Wild_Bill" wrote in message
...
Making straight cuts in steel with a hacksaw isn't all that much effort
for most folks. Your cut probably would've gone quicker with a sharp blade
and fewer teeth per inch for 1/2" plate/bar.

Making a few cuts per day isn't so bad, but when you get involved in other
projects that require lots of material to be cut, hand sawing gets to be
too tedious.
That's when you'll appreciate the 4x6 bandsaw that several others have
recommended.

It's like having an obedient helper involved in the project.. so you can
drill, weld assemble or do other procedures while the saw just hums away,
getting the other materials ready.