Well, I've gone and done it.

I was changing out the water pump in my car and I busted off a bolt in the
aluminum block. So, I tried an easyout. After breaking that thing off in
there I decided to weld a nut to the little bit of bolt that was sticking
out. The result is now a bolt that is completely flush with the block and
it has an easyout broke off in it.

I'm thinking of just putting it back together and hoping that it doesn't
leak with the one bolt missing.

Does anyone else have any other tricks up their sleeves?

Relz

More successive drilling, pray to goddamm god you drill *straight* and
fairly on-center so's you don't screw up the threads, and eventually "peel"
off what's left of bolt in the aluminum hole, mebbe clean out what's left
w/ a tap, at that point.

Also can use concentrated nitric acid (bomb quality g), which dissolves Fe
but leaves Al alone. Can try that now, or proly better after drilling, say,
a 3/16-1/4 hole thru a 3/8 bolt.
Others have said this works, and chemically it is entirely valid, but I
tried it once for a 1/4-20 tap that broke off in Alum, and it didn't work
for me--coulda been ****ty nitric, could be some steel alloys are more
resistant than others, dunno.

See the threads here on PB Blaster, Kroil, etc, for the *next* time. g

Ahm not an auto 'spert (or any kind of spert, except on things like Harold
bein a spineless moralistic turncoat asshole), but you can also try the
fellows at rec.autos.tech.
----------------------------
Mr. P.V.'d
formerly Droll Troll
"Relz" wrote in message
...
Well, I've gone and done it.

I was changing out the water pump in my car and I busted off a bolt in the
aluminum block. So, I tried an easyout. After breaking that thing off in
there I decided to weld a nut to the little bit of bolt that was sticking
out. The result is now a bolt that is completely flush with the block and
it has an easyout broke off in it.

I'm thinking of just putting it back together and hoping that it doesn't
leak with the one bolt missing.

Does anyone else have any other tricks up their sleeves?

Relz

On Tue, 15 Nov 2005 07:24:31 -0600, "Relz"
wrote:

Well, I've gone and done it.

I was changing out the water pump in my car and I busted off a bolt in the
aluminum block. So, I tried an easyout. After breaking that thing off in
there I decided to weld a nut to the little bit of bolt that was sticking
out. The result is now a bolt that is completely flush with the block and
it has an easyout broke off in it.

I'm thinking of just putting it back together and hoping that it doesn't
leak with the one bolt missing.

Does anyone else have any other tricks up their sleeves?

Relz

Nothing easy about a E Zout IME. Try welding a washer
to the stub then a nut on the washer. Someone else
might have a better strategy. Oh yea toss whats left
of the EZouts, DE

----== Posted via Newsfeeds.Com - Unlimited-Unrestricted-Secure Usenet News==----
http://www.newsfeeds.com The #1 Newsgroup Service in the World! 120,000+ Newsgroups
----= East and West-Coast Server Farms - Total Privacy via Encryption =----

Relz wrote:
Well, I've gone and done it.

I was changing out the water pump in my car and I busted off a bolt in the
aluminum block. So, I tried an easyout. After breaking that thing off in
there I decided to weld a nut to the little bit of bolt that was sticking
out. The result is now a bolt that is completely flush with the block and
it has an easyout broke off in it.

I'm thinking of just putting it back together and hoping that it doesn't
leak with the one bolt missing.

Does anyone else have any other tricks up their sleeves?

Relz

I did the same thing on my cast iron Jeep engine, but there was just
enough bolt sticking out that I was able to weld a nut on with a mig.
I have read in an old Lincoln welding book a technique for removing
bolts that are broken off below the surface. This book said to use a
stick welder, and to put the electrode down in the hole, and build up
the weld until it was far enough above the surface to weld on a nut.

I don't think you will get away with leaving one bolt missing.

Dave

WHen that happens to me, I drill the broken bolt with 1/2 the dia of the
bolt. By all means go slow and true! Tap in a flathead screwdriver bit that
fits to a 3/8 ratchet, tap it in tight. Apply small heat to the AL , hope to
hell it turns out, 9 X out of 10 this works for me.
Searcher

i was wondering if you guys put grease on the (new) bolt(s) when you
reassemble it so that it can't happen again.
when i reassemble stuff with steel bolts into aluminum castings i put grease
on the bolts but i'm wondering if that's a bad thing to do. so far as i
know the bolts that i've done this to haven't worked themselves loose, i
torque them down to the specified values, etc. i always figured it was
water getting in there that caused the problem to begin with, either that
the water caused the aluminum to corrode and locked the bolt (with that
white aluminum corrosion frazz) or there was a galvanic reaction between the
steel and aluminum that corroded the aluminum and created that white frazz
that locked the bolt.(?)

b.w.



"Searcher1" wrote in message
news:Kxmef.15726$rO4.1417@trnddc05...
WHen that happens to me, I drill the broken bolt with 1/2 the dia of the
bolt. By all means go slow and true! Tap in a flathead screwdriver bit
that fits to a 3/8 ratchet, tap it in tight. Apply small heat to the AL ,
hope to hell it turns out, 9 X out of 10 this works for me.
Searcher

Don't use grease, use the appropriate version of 'Never Seize'

William Wixon wrote:
i was wondering if you guys put grease on the (new) bolt(s) when you
reassemble it so that it can't happen again.
when i reassemble stuff with steel bolts into aluminum castings i put grease
on the bolts but i'm wondering if that's a bad thing to do. so far as i
know the bolts that i've done this to haven't worked themselves loose, i
torque them down to the specified values, etc. i always figured it was
water getting in there that caused the problem to begin with, either that
the water caused the aluminum to corrode and locked the bolt (with that
white aluminum corrosion frazz) or there was a galvanic reaction between the
steel and aluminum that corroded the aluminum and created that white frazz
that locked the bolt.(?)

b.w.



"Searcher1" wrote in message
news:Kxmef.15726$rO4.1417@trnddc05...

WHen that happens to me, I drill the broken bolt with 1/2 the dia of the
bolt. By all means go slow and true! Tap in a flathead screwdriver bit
that fits to a 3/8 ratchet, tap it in tight. Apply small heat to the AL ,
hope to hell it turns out, 9 X out of 10 this works for me.
Searcher

Last time this happened to me was on a water pump change for a 262 V6 GM
(same as a V8). I put it back together with the 3 good bolts and it was
fine for another 120K miles, when I sold the van.

- -
Rex Burkheimer
WM Automotive
Fort Worth TX

Relz wrote:
Well, I've gone and done it.

I was changing out the water pump in my car and I busted off a bolt in the
aluminum block. So, I tried an easyout. After breaking that thing off in
there I decided to weld a nut to the little bit of bolt that was sticking
out. The result is now a bolt that is completely flush with the block and
it has an easyout broke off in it.

I'm thinking of just putting it back together and hoping that it doesn't
leak with the one bolt missing.

Does anyone else have any other tricks up their sleeves?

Relz

Relz writes:

Does anyone else have any other tricks up their sleeves?

You have to assume that bolt isn't coming out, so forget more welding, etc.

Create a decent center dimple on the stump by cutting crossed slots with a
Dremel type cutoff tool. Use a hand drill to drill out enough to get a
thread repair tap and coil in there.

"Searcher1" wrote in message
news:Kxmef.15726$rO4.1417@trnddc05...
WHen that happens to me, I drill the broken bolt with 1/2 the dia of the
bolt. By all means go slow and true! Tap in a flathead screwdriver bit
that fits to a 3/8 ratchet, tap it in tight. Apply small heat to the AL ,
hope to hell it turns out, 9 X out of 10 this works for me.
Searcher


I would love to give this a try, however, I can't drill through the easyout.

Relz

"DE" wrote

Nothing easy about a E Zout IME. Try welding a washer
to the stub then a nut on the washer. Someone else
might have a better strategy. Oh yea toss whats left
of the EZouts, DE

I was surprised at how easy it was to break the EZout. I've heard the
straight, tapered style are better.
Does anyone have any experience with this style?

Relz

In article t,
RoyJ wrote:

Don't use grease, use the appropriate version of 'Never Seize'


Seconded enthusiastically!

I work part-time as a shop tech at a Medical Supply house.

Sunrise Medical, the makers of the Quickie wheelchairs, have a bad habit
of using hardened socket-head machine screws to fasten aluminum
assemblies. After a few years, these screws can become almost impossible
to remove due to the corrosion between the steel and aluminum.

Sunrise isn't the only maker that does this, but they're the biggest
one. I've often asked their tech support folks whether their engineers
have ever heard of galvanic corrosion or metal galling.

A good demonstration of GC is to use an aluminum patch for a hole in
your car fender. DAMHIKT!

IF I _do_ manage to get them apart, when they go back together, there's
a healthy dose of Never-Sieze on the screws. I haven't yet had one of
the screws loosen, but they're easily removed the next time the chair
comes in for service.

On Tue, 15 Nov 2005 08:40:32 -0500, Proctologically Violated©® wrote:
More successive drilling, pray to goddamm god you drill *straight* and
fairly on-center so's you don't screw up the threads, and eventually "peel"
off what's left of bolt in the aluminum hole, mebbe clean out what's left
w/ a tap, at that point.

Get thee a set of left-hand twist drill bits for this job. The torque
and heat from drilling has backed out stuck bolts for me in this
situation. Worst case, you still have a hole, so you're no worse off
than with a right-hand drill bit.

But yeah, keep it straight. Make a guide to help with that, maybe?

See the threads here on PB Blaster, Kroil, etc, for the *next* time. g

anti-seize is made for this, isn't it? You know, the grey "jumping
grease" that gets on _everything_?

Dave Hinz

Proctologically Violated©® wrote:
More successive drilling, pray to goddamm god you drill *straight* and
fairly on-center so's you don't screw up the threads, and eventually "peel"
off what's left of bolt in the aluminum hole, mebbe clean out what's left
w/ a tap, at that point.

Also can use concentrated nitric acid (bomb quality g), which dissolves Fe
but leaves Al alone. Can try that now, or proly better after drilling, say,
a 3/16-1/4 hole thru a 3/8 bolt.
Others have said this works, and chemically it is entirely valid, but I
tried it once for a 1/4-20 tap that broke off in Alum, and it didn't work
for me--coulda been ****ty nitric, could be some steel alloys are more
resistant than others, dunno.

See the threads here on PB Blaster, Kroil, etc, for the *next* time. g

Ahm not an auto 'spert (or any kind of spert, except on things like Harold
bein a spineless moralistic turncoat asshole), but you can also try the
fellows at rec.autos.tech.
----------------------------
Mr. P.V.'d
formerly Droll Troll
"Relz" wrote in message
...

Well, I've gone and done it.

I was changing out the water pump in my car and I busted off a bolt in the
aluminum block. So, I tried an easyout. After breaking that thing off in
there I decided to weld a nut to the little bit of bolt that was sticking
out. The result is now a bolt that is completely flush with the block and
it has an easyout broke off in it.

I'm thinking of just putting it back together and hoping that it doesn't
leak with the one bolt missing.

Does anyone else have any other tricks up their sleeves?

Relz




The nitric acid won't work unless you can change it out regularly (it
weakens as it reacts with the iron), and you're willing to wait a few
days as it eats through the eazy-out.

Too late now, but he would've been better off just drilling out the bolt
and putting in a helicoil. Once a steel fastener rusts and seizes in
aluminum, the chance of getting it out cleanly is somewhere between slim
and none.

Richard J Kinch wrote:
Relz writes:

Does anyone else have any other tricks up their sleeves?

You have to assume that bolt isn't coming out, so forget more
welding, etc.

Create a decent center dimple on the stump by cutting crossed slots
with a Dremel type cutoff tool. Use a hand drill to drill out enough
to get a thread repair tap and coil in there.

The real problem here is the busted off easyout (should be called a
nowayout).
I would suggest a carbide drill - the 'tipped' variety - usually sold to
drill concrete or rock.
With care and a little luck it will eat the easyout for breakfast.
A solid carbide drill costs mucho and will break if you look at it the wrong
way.
Those damned easyouts should be outlawed!
Around here we use aircraft-grade gasket goo.
Liberally slathered on the bolt it will prevent seizing even when the
assembly in routinely submrged in salt water!

Regards.
Ken.

On Tue, 15 Nov 2005 15:06:03 GMT, with neither quill nor qualm,
"William Wixon" quickly quoth:

i was wondering if you guys put grease on the (new) bolt(s) when you
reassemble it so that it can't happen again.
when i reassemble stuff with steel bolts into aluminum castings i put grease
on the bolts but i'm wondering if that's a bad thing to do. so far as i

Yes, it is. Grease can either allow them to come loose or it can
evaporate and you end up with stuck bolts anyway.

Use an anti-seize compound for aluminum instead.

-----
= The wealth of reality, cannot be seen from your locality. =
http://www.diversify.com Comprehensive Website Development

On 15 Nov 2005 06:44:41 -0800, wrote:


Relz wrote:
Well, I've gone and done it.

I was changing out the water pump in my car and I busted off a bolt in the
aluminum block. So, I tried an easyout. After breaking that thing off in
there I decided to weld a nut to the little bit of bolt that was sticking
out. The result is now a bolt that is completely flush with the block and
it has an easyout broke off in it.

I'm thinking of just putting it back together and hoping that it doesn't
leak with the one bolt missing.

Does anyone else have any other tricks up their sleeves?

Relz

I did the same thing on my cast iron Jeep engine, but there was just
enough bolt sticking out that I was able to weld a nut on with a mig.
I have read in an old Lincoln welding book a technique for removing
bolts that are broken off below the surface. This book said to use a
stick welder, and to put the electrode down in the hole, and build up
the weld until it was far enough above the surface to weld on a nut.

I don't think you will get away with leaving one bolt missing.

Dave

I recently helped a guy change a clutch in his pickup. There was a
steel stud thingy that was the pivot point for the clutch fork..and he
had managed to beak off the end of the stud thingy in the bell
housing. So I went in with an endmill with the side flutes dulled on
a belt sander and face milled the stud flat (drill motor), then made
up a steel rod a smide smaller than the hole, drilled a hole through
it and stuck in a piece of heat shrink tubing, then stuck a 6011 rod
down the heat shrink, put the rod down the hold until it was on top of
the broken part and fired up the welder, then pushed in the electrode
until it arced and then welded for a second or two. I then used a
slide hammer to pull the rod and busted thingy out. Worked slick.

(insert diety of your choice) was with us.

Gunner

"Pax Americana is a philosophy. Hardly an empire.
Making sure other people play nice and dont kill each other (and us)
off in job lots is hardly empire building, particularly when you give
them self determination under "play nice" rules.

Think of it as having your older brother knock the **** out of you
for torturing the cat." Gunner

On Tue, 15 Nov 2005 15:06:03 GMT, "William Wixon"
wrote:

i was wondering if you guys put grease on the (new) bolt(s) when you
reassemble it so that it can't happen again.
when i reassemble stuff with steel bolts into aluminum castings i put grease
on the bolts but i'm wondering if that's a bad thing to do. so far as i
know the bolts that i've done this to haven't worked themselves loose, i
torque them down to the specified values, etc. i always figured it was
water getting in there that caused the problem to begin with, either that
the water caused the aluminum to corrode and locked the bolt (with that
white aluminum corrosion frazz) or there was a galvanic reaction between the
steel and aluminum that corroded the aluminum and created that white frazz
that locked the bolt.(?)

b.w.

I always use copper never seize when putting car stuff back together.
Course..I have about 20 cans of it

Gunner




"Searcher1" wrote in message
news:Kxmef.15726$rO4.1417@trnddc05...
WHen that happens to me, I drill the broken bolt with 1/2 the dia of the
bolt. By all means go slow and true! Tap in a flathead screwdriver bit
that fits to a 3/8 ratchet, tap it in tight. Apply small heat to the AL ,
hope to hell it turns out, 9 X out of 10 this works for me.
Searcher



"Pax Americana is a philosophy. Hardly an empire.
Making sure other people play nice and dont kill each other (and us)
off in job lots is hardly empire building, particularly when you give
them self determination under "play nice" rules.

Think of it as having your older brother knock the **** out of you
for torturing the cat." Gunner

Relz wrote:
"DE" wrote


Nothing easy about a E Zout IME. Try welding a washer
to the stub then a nut on the washer. Someone else
might have a better strategy. Oh yea toss whats left
of the EZouts, DE


I was surprised at how easy it was to break the EZout. I've heard the
straight, tapered style are better.
Does anyone have any experience with this style?

All EZouts are potentially the tool of the Devil.

On Tue, 15 Nov 2005 10:16:10 -0600, "Relz"
wrote:


"DE" wrote

Nothing easy about a E Zout IME. Try welding a washer
to the stub then a nut on the washer. Someone else
might have a better strategy. Oh yea toss whats left
of the EZouts, DE

I was surprised at how easy it was to break the EZout. I've heard the
straight, tapered style are better.
Does anyone have any experience with this style?

IMO ez outs should require a license to own. Yes the square tapered
are much better than the spiral version. However you still have to
know how to use them and it's not as ez as people think.

First off with the aluminum job you're in a bad shape. It's probably
possible to get it out but it will not be a easy job. I've had people
bring me these in after spending two days drilling on them making the
biggest mess you've ever seen. I pulled at least 5 pieces of broken
drill bit points out of one these (many of them going off at every
angle imaginable into the aluminum). Took me 1 1/2 hours to do what
should of been a 15 minute job just because they tried to do it
themselves.

Since you've got the easy out stuck in there you're limited on what
you can do. The best method would be EDM but it can be hard to get the
piece off and find a place who will do it. The carbide drill suggested
by another poster is another possibility. However the likely hood of
being able to do it with a hand drill is low with it on the car and
not messing up the aluminum at the same time. It will probably take a
good many of the carbide bits to get it done as well.

A carbide burr in a dremel at low speed is actually one of the
better ways to go if you don't have the skill to weld to the easy out
and get it out of the bolt. BTW you really need to use stainless to
weld to the easy out. Mild steel rod has a low chance of ever getting
a good hold on the high carbon steel in the easy out.

As for the bolt in the aluminum remember two things. Heat is you
friend in a case like this and patients is a virtue on a job like
this.

Don't get in a hurry.

Don't put to much force on a easy out. If the bolt didn't come out
with the full size of the bolt turning it then the small size of the
easy out isn't likely to do it either. Easy outs are for bolts that
broke when tightening or broke because of to much force was put on
them. Not for bolts that broke because they wouldn't turn when trying
to remove them. For those kinds of bolts then something has to change
before the easy out has a chance to work. Either the piece is heated
to red heat (not possible on aluminum) and allowed to cool or some
other thing has happened to loosen the stuck threads.

The way I would of gone about trying to remove this bolt is that I
would of first welded a washer on it (preferably with stainless rod).
Then I would of welded a nut on the washer. Then I would of heated
everything as much as I could without melting the aluminum and allow
to cool. Then I would of tapped on the bolt/nut combination to try and
get things broken up a little (note tap not hit, small hammer light
blows). Spraying with a good penetrating oil may or may not help but
it rarely hurts. Carefully try to work the bolt back and forth. Just
trying to unscrew it rarely works. You need to try and break up the
corrosion in the threads. Wiggling a slightly loose crescent wrench
back and forth on the nut is a good way to get the light blows needed
to work it loose. If you can ever get it to move slightly back and
forth then the odds of you getting it out are pretty good. Just keep
working it till it moves more and more. Once it starts moving keep
blasting it with penetrating oil to try and work some into the
threads. It will most likely come out if you keep this up and don't
get in a hurry.

If the bolt never does move after a good bit of careful working back
and forth then you can try with a little more force. Slowly working it
back and forth with more force till it either moves or the nut breaks
off the bolt. In which case you've got two choices. Welding another
nut on the bolt (in some cases it may take a dozen tries before the
heat of welding and the working causes the bolt to finally come free)
or you can drill it out. This is hard to do for many since it's really
hard to get in the center of the bolt when drilling. Start small and
work your way up through the drill index till you just start to see
threads on one side of the hole then stop. At this point depending on
how accurate you drilled the hole you can start working on picking the
threads out or you can start working on getting the rest of the bolt
out to the threads with a carbide burr in a dremel (the last is the
most likely scenario). For the most part I don't recommend using a tap
to get the remaining threads out. There's to much chance of the tap
getting bound in the hole and breaking. With care it can work but even
with care they will sometimes get bound up.


Wow that's rather long and rambling. Hopefully somebody will get
some good out part of it. This a subject that hits close to home since
I'm usually the one everybody brings these things to after they've
already made a mess of it. It's much easier for me if they just bring
it to me in the first place.



Wayne Cook
Shamrock, TX
http://members.dslextreme.com/users/waynecook/index.htm

It's a water pump, right? So the worst thing that will happen is that it
will leak coolant. No big deal. So I would just bolt it up with the
remaining bolts and a big gob of RTV gasket goop and see if it leaks...

Unless you want to pull the motor, you aren't going to be able to either
drill it straight, keep nitric acid on it, or any of the other solutions...

BTW, my 19 year-old smart-alek son calls this 'Hardy boy' work, as in, "Dad,
you going to Hardy boy this thing or do it right?"

"Emmo" wrote in message
...
It's a water pump, right? So the worst thing that will happen is that it
will leak coolant. No big deal. So I would just bolt it up with the
remaining bolts and a big gob of RTV gasket goop and see if it leaks...

well, maybe. on a previous vette, the optispark distributor is underneath
the water pump. if the water pumpt leaks, the optispark corrodes and needs
replacement (ie, hundreds of dollars). gm didn't learn to do this right for
about 4 model years.

Unless you want to pull the motor, you aren't going to be able to either
drill it straight, keep nitric acid on it, or any of the other
solutions...

BTW, my 19 year-old smart-alek son calls this 'Hardy boy' work, as in,
"Dad, you going to Hardy boy this thing or do it right?"

regards,
charlie
http://glassartists.org/chaniarts

On Tue, 15 Nov 2005 12:32:36 -0700, Charles Spitzer wrote:

well, maybe. on a previous vette, the optispark distributor is underneath
the water pump. if the water pumpt leaks, the optispark corrodes and needs
replacement (ie, hundreds of dollars). gm didn't learn to do this right for
about 4 model years.

Well, "do this right", I guess, depends on if you think the engineers,
or the beancounters, were in charge of the decision.

Dave Hinz wrote:
On Tue, 15 Nov 2005 12:32:36 -0700, Charles Spitzer
wrote:

well, maybe. on a previous vette, the optispark distributor is
underneath
the water pump. if the water pumpt leaks, the optispark corrodes and
needs
replacement (ie, hundreds of dollars). gm didn't learn to do this
right for
about 4 model years.

Well, "do this right", I guess, depends on if you think the engineers,
or the beancounters, were in charge of the decision.

Or - if you have to abandon the bolt/location as a fastener how about
rigging up a clamping arrangement outboard of the water pump flange?

Ken.

Tim Killian wrote:

Too late now, but he would've been better off just drilling out the bolt
and putting in a helicoil. Once a steel fastener rusts and seizes in
aluminum, the chance of getting it out cleanly is somewhere between slim
and none.

Yeah, and Slim rode out of town at high noon yesterday.....

Jeff


--
Jeffry Wisnia

(W1BSV + Brass Rat '57 EE)

"Truth exists; only falsehood has to be invented."

Dave Hinz wrote:



See the threads here on PB Blaster, Kroil, etc, for the *next* time. g


anti-seize is made for this, isn't it? You know, the grey "jumping
grease" that gets on _everything_?

Dave Hinz


I think he was talking about something to get the already stuck bolt
loose...

If it's stuckded already it's too late for anti-seize unless your
grandaddy was H.G. Wells and he left you plans for a time machine.

Jeff

--
Jeffry Wisnia

(W1BSV + Brass Rat '57 EE)

"Truth exists; only falsehood has to be invented."

On Tue, 15 Nov 2005 16:24:58 -0500, Jeff Wisnia wrote:
Dave Hinz wrote:



See the threads here on PB Blaster, Kroil, etc, for the *next* time. g

anti-seize is made for this, isn't it? You know, the grey "jumping
grease" that gets on _everything_?

I think he was talking about something to get the already stuck bolt
loose...

Right, but so there isn't a next time where he needs kroil, the
anti-seize is the way to go.

If it's stuckded already it's too late for anti-seize unless your
grandaddy was H.G. Wells and he left you plans for a time machine.

I'm not allowed to discuss it.

Ken Davey wrote:

Richard J Kinch wrote:


Those damned easyouts should be outlawed!

The only thing they ever got out easy was the money from my wallet when
I bought a small set years ago. Never found anything stuck lightly
enough for them to do any good on.

Jeff


--
Jeffry Wisnia

(W1BSV + Brass Rat '57 EE)

"Truth exists; only falsehood has to be invented."

Jeff Wisnia wrote:
Ken Davey wrote:

Richard J Kinch wrote:


Those damned easyouts should be outlawed!


The only thing they ever got out easy was the money from my wallet when
I bought a small set years ago. Never found anything stuck lightly
enough for them to do any good on.

Jeff


I used one for the first time ever, successfully, to pull out a corroded
AA battery from a minimag flashlight after drilling out the core. I was
amazed, of course I spent more time and energy then what the minimag is
worth.

cheers
T. Alan

When drilling the broken bolt or stud out, it's obviously important to
drill on center and straight. A guide really helps.

If a bolt or stud is broken beneath the surface, and there are a few
threads showing, I'll drill out a same size bolt on the lathe, thread
it into the hole, and use that to guide the drill. Same thing if there
are threads above the hole, except that I'll use a nut or coupler nut
to connect the broken bolt and the drilled guide bolt.

If neither of those will work, I'll often use the original part to
guide a full size drill bit to spot the hole, then drill with the
correct smaller size drill. Or, use the part to hold a guide bushing
to start the drill.

John Martin

Jim Stewart wrote:

Relz wrote:
"DE" wrote


Nothing easy about a E Zout IME. Try welding a washer
to the stub then a nut on the washer. Someone else
might have a better strategy. Oh yea toss whats left
of the EZouts, DE


I was surprised at how easy it was to break the EZout. I've heard the
straight, tapered style are better.
Does anyone have any experience with this style?

All EZouts are potentially the tool of the Devil.

There is no such thing as an easy out. Drilling and a helicoil or
other thread fixing device is the way to go. With aluminum and steel you
dont need locktite. G

never sieze is the stuff to use when you put that pump back on.

John

"Relz" wrote in message
...
Well, I've gone and done it.

I was changing out the water pump in my car and I busted off a bolt in the
aluminum block. So, I tried an easyout. After breaking that thing off in
there I decided to weld a nut to the little bit of bolt that was sticking
out. The result is now a bolt that is completely flush with the block and
it has an easyout broke off in it.

I'm thinking of just putting it back together and hoping that it doesn't
leak with the one bolt missing.

Does anyone else have any other tricks up their sleeves?

Relz


I want to thank everyone for all their input and suggestions. I thought I'd
give you all an update and ask a few more questions:

To begin with, I work in the same building with a welding company. I talked
with a welder over there and he agreed that welding stainless would work out
better. He even lent me a spool of stainless to take home and use. He also
suggested heating said broken bolt off before welding to it. He was saying
that it would weld better if the bolt was pre-heated. Is this sound
doctrine in your guys' experience? He even suggested using a plasma cutter.
He told me of a situation where he used a plasma cutter to blast out a tap
without wrecking the internal threads. I've seen my dad cut nuts off a bolt
without harming the bolt threads, but he used an oxy-acetalene torch, not a
plasma cutter. If I had a plasma cutter, I would grab some scrap and see if
this idea works. Can I get a volunteer? Can someone try this out and let
the group know how it works?

I was telling my dad about my predicament. He went over to my house today
while I was at work. He called me to tell me that he got the bolt out. I
asked him how he did it and if he used the stainless welding wire. Now, you
have to realize that this man's background is from the farm and he has been
working on the railroad for decades. He's used to big, crude, rusty objects
that weigh tons and tons. He's used to using rosebuds on the end of 3-foot
torches and breaking out the sledgehammer to fix any problems, you see. So,
between railroad repair experience and a farmer gotta-get-it-done attitude
he decides to drill some holes just above the busted bolt and one below it
for punch access. He basically beats the bolt up enough that he can then
get on it with a pair of needlenose pliers and pull the thing out. There
was only about a 1/4 inch of bolt engagment left in the block (it broke off
as I was backing it out).

I'm hearing this over the phone and I'm used to a little finer precision
than what a sledgehammer can bring, so in my mind I'm envisioning a complete
mess. But I have faith in my dad. He's taught me an awful lot. He says
that I just need to put a little JB Weld in there and I'll be good to go.
"JB Weld?", I ask; I've only used it on oil pans before. I would think the
proper way to do it would be to fill the drilled holes in with weld, bolt on
the old pump, use a transfer punch to locate the hole, then drill and tap my
way to a perfect fix. In his opinion, that was way to much fuss. He's used
JB Weld to repair tractor engine blocks before and has stories of repairing
3/4 ton Ford differentials with this magical mixture. I checked the JB Weld
website and this stuff bonds with aluminum and is good up to 500 degrees F.
I figure I'll give this stuff a try and if it doesn't work then I'll dig or
chip it out and figure out how to weld aluminum. And I'm definitely going
to get some anti-seize compound to slather on the bolts before I put them
back in.

So, that's where I'm at now.

Relz

DE wrote in
:

Nothing easy about a E Zout IME. Try welding a washer
to the stub then a nut on the washer. Someone else
might have a better strategy. Oh yea toss whats left

I've never had any luck with EZ outs. The Alden screw extractors actually
work. You need enough room to use a power drill though.

http://www.aldn.com/


--

Dan