Proctologically Violated©® wrote:
More successive drilling, pray to goddamm god you drill *straight* and
fairly on-center so's you don't screw up the threads, and eventually "peel"
off what's left of bolt in the aluminum hole, mebbe clean out what's left
w/ a tap, at that point.

Also can use concentrated nitric acid (bomb quality g), which dissolves Fe
but leaves Al alone. Can try that now, or proly better after drilling, say,
a 3/16-1/4 hole thru a 3/8 bolt.
Others have said this works, and chemically it is entirely valid, but I
tried it once for a 1/4-20 tap that broke off in Alum, and it didn't work
for me--coulda been ****ty nitric, could be some steel alloys are more
resistant than others, dunno.

See the threads here on PB Blaster, Kroil, etc, for the *next* time. g

Ahm not an auto 'spert (or any kind of spert, except on things like Harold
bein a spineless moralistic turncoat asshole), but you can also try the
fellows at rec.autos.tech.
----------------------------
Mr. P.V.'d
formerly Droll Troll
"Relz" wrote in message
...

Well, I've gone and done it.

I was changing out the water pump in my car and I busted off a bolt in the
aluminum block. So, I tried an easyout. After breaking that thing off in
there I decided to weld a nut to the little bit of bolt that was sticking
out. The result is now a bolt that is completely flush with the block and
it has an easyout broke off in it.

I'm thinking of just putting it back together and hoping that it doesn't
leak with the one bolt missing.

Does anyone else have any other tricks up their sleeves?

Relz




The nitric acid won't work unless you can change it out regularly (it
weakens as it reacts with the iron), and you're willing to wait a few
days as it eats through the eazy-out.

Too late now, but he would've been better off just drilling out the bolt
and putting in a helicoil. Once a steel fastener rusts and seizes in
aluminum, the chance of getting it out cleanly is somewhere between slim
and none.