Any Ideas?
Well, I've gone and done it.
I was changing out the water pump in my car and I busted off a bolt in the aluminum block. So, I tried an easyout. After breaking that thing off in there I decided to weld a nut to the little bit of bolt that was sticking out. The result is now a bolt that is completely flush with the block and it has an easyout broke off in it. I'm thinking of just putting it back together and hoping that it doesn't leak with the one bolt missing. Does anyone else have any other tricks up their sleeves? Relz |
Any Ideas?
More successive drilling, pray to goddamm god you drill *straight* and
fairly on-center so's you don't screw up the threads, and eventually "peel" off what's left of bolt in the aluminum hole, mebbe clean out what's left w/ a tap, at that point. Also can use concentrated nitric acid (bomb quality g), which dissolves Fe but leaves Al alone. Can try that now, or proly better after drilling, say, a 3/16-1/4 hole thru a 3/8 bolt. Others have said this works, and chemically it is entirely valid, but I tried it once for a 1/4-20 tap that broke off in Alum, and it didn't work for me--coulda been ****ty nitric, could be some steel alloys are more resistant than others, dunno. See the threads here on PB Blaster, Kroil, etc, for the *next* time. g Ahm not an auto 'spert (or any kind of spert, except on things like Harold bein a spineless moralistic turncoat asshole), but you can also try the fellows at rec.autos.tech. ---------------------------- Mr. P.V.'d formerly Droll Troll "Relz" wrote in message ... Well, I've gone and done it. I was changing out the water pump in my car and I busted off a bolt in the aluminum block. So, I tried an easyout. After breaking that thing off in there I decided to weld a nut to the little bit of bolt that was sticking out. The result is now a bolt that is completely flush with the block and it has an easyout broke off in it. I'm thinking of just putting it back together and hoping that it doesn't leak with the one bolt missing. Does anyone else have any other tricks up their sleeves? Relz |
Any Ideas?
On Tue, 15 Nov 2005 07:24:31 -0600, "Relz"
wrote: Well, I've gone and done it. I was changing out the water pump in my car and I busted off a bolt in the aluminum block. So, I tried an easyout. After breaking that thing off in there I decided to weld a nut to the little bit of bolt that was sticking out. The result is now a bolt that is completely flush with the block and it has an easyout broke off in it. I'm thinking of just putting it back together and hoping that it doesn't leak with the one bolt missing. Does anyone else have any other tricks up their sleeves? Relz Nothing easy about a E Zout IME. Try welding a washer to the stub then a nut on the washer. Someone else might have a better strategy. Oh yea toss whats left of the EZouts, DE ----== Posted via Newsfeeds.Com - Unlimited-Unrestricted-Secure Usenet News==---- http://www.newsfeeds.com The #1 Newsgroup Service in the World! 120,000+ Newsgroups ----= East and West-Coast Server Farms - Total Privacy via Encryption =---- |
Any Ideas?
Relz wrote: Well, I've gone and done it. I was changing out the water pump in my car and I busted off a bolt in the aluminum block. So, I tried an easyout. After breaking that thing off in there I decided to weld a nut to the little bit of bolt that was sticking out. The result is now a bolt that is completely flush with the block and it has an easyout broke off in it. I'm thinking of just putting it back together and hoping that it doesn't leak with the one bolt missing. Does anyone else have any other tricks up their sleeves? Relz I did the same thing on my cast iron Jeep engine, but there was just enough bolt sticking out that I was able to weld a nut on with a mig. I have read in an old Lincoln welding book a technique for removing bolts that are broken off below the surface. This book said to use a stick welder, and to put the electrode down in the hole, and build up the weld until it was far enough above the surface to weld on a nut. I don't think you will get away with leaving one bolt missing. Dave |
Any Ideas?
WHen that happens to me, I drill the broken bolt with 1/2 the dia of the
bolt. By all means go slow and true! Tap in a flathead screwdriver bit that fits to a 3/8 ratchet, tap it in tight. Apply small heat to the AL , hope to hell it turns out, 9 X out of 10 this works for me. Searcher |
Any Ideas?
i was wondering if you guys put grease on the (new) bolt(s) when you
reassemble it so that it can't happen again. when i reassemble stuff with steel bolts into aluminum castings i put grease on the bolts but i'm wondering if that's a bad thing to do. so far as i know the bolts that i've done this to haven't worked themselves loose, i torque them down to the specified values, etc. i always figured it was water getting in there that caused the problem to begin with, either that the water caused the aluminum to corrode and locked the bolt (with that white aluminum corrosion frazz) or there was a galvanic reaction between the steel and aluminum that corroded the aluminum and created that white frazz that locked the bolt.(?) b.w. "Searcher1" wrote in message news:Kxmef.15726$rO4.1417@trnddc05... WHen that happens to me, I drill the broken bolt with 1/2 the dia of the bolt. By all means go slow and true! Tap in a flathead screwdriver bit that fits to a 3/8 ratchet, tap it in tight. Apply small heat to the AL , hope to hell it turns out, 9 X out of 10 this works for me. Searcher |
Any Ideas?
Don't use grease, use the appropriate version of 'Never Seize'
William Wixon wrote: i was wondering if you guys put grease on the (new) bolt(s) when you reassemble it so that it can't happen again. when i reassemble stuff with steel bolts into aluminum castings i put grease on the bolts but i'm wondering if that's a bad thing to do. so far as i know the bolts that i've done this to haven't worked themselves loose, i torque them down to the specified values, etc. i always figured it was water getting in there that caused the problem to begin with, either that the water caused the aluminum to corrode and locked the bolt (with that white aluminum corrosion frazz) or there was a galvanic reaction between the steel and aluminum that corroded the aluminum and created that white frazz that locked the bolt.(?) b.w. "Searcher1" wrote in message news:Kxmef.15726$rO4.1417@trnddc05... WHen that happens to me, I drill the broken bolt with 1/2 the dia of the bolt. By all means go slow and true! Tap in a flathead screwdriver bit that fits to a 3/8 ratchet, tap it in tight. Apply small heat to the AL , hope to hell it turns out, 9 X out of 10 this works for me. Searcher |
Any Ideas?
Last time this happened to me was on a water pump change for a 262 V6 GM
(same as a V8). I put it back together with the 3 good bolts and it was fine for another 120K miles, when I sold the van. - - Rex Burkheimer WM Automotive Fort Worth TX Relz wrote: Well, I've gone and done it. I was changing out the water pump in my car and I busted off a bolt in the aluminum block. So, I tried an easyout. After breaking that thing off in there I decided to weld a nut to the little bit of bolt that was sticking out. The result is now a bolt that is completely flush with the block and it has an easyout broke off in it. I'm thinking of just putting it back together and hoping that it doesn't leak with the one bolt missing. Does anyone else have any other tricks up their sleeves? Relz |
Any Ideas?
Relz writes:
Does anyone else have any other tricks up their sleeves? You have to assume that bolt isn't coming out, so forget more welding, etc. Create a decent center dimple on the stump by cutting crossed slots with a Dremel type cutoff tool. Use a hand drill to drill out enough to get a thread repair tap and coil in there. |
Any Ideas?
"Searcher1" wrote in message news:Kxmef.15726$rO4.1417@trnddc05... WHen that happens to me, I drill the broken bolt with 1/2 the dia of the bolt. By all means go slow and true! Tap in a flathead screwdriver bit that fits to a 3/8 ratchet, tap it in tight. Apply small heat to the AL , hope to hell it turns out, 9 X out of 10 this works for me. Searcher I would love to give this a try, however, I can't drill through the easyout. Relz |
Any Ideas?
"DE" wrote Nothing easy about a E Zout IME. Try welding a washer to the stub then a nut on the washer. Someone else might have a better strategy. Oh yea toss whats left of the EZouts, DE I was surprised at how easy it was to break the EZout. I've heard the straight, tapered style are better. Does anyone have any experience with this style? Relz |
Any Ideas?
In article t,
RoyJ wrote: Don't use grease, use the appropriate version of 'Never Seize' Seconded enthusiastically! :) I work part-time as a shop tech at a Medical Supply house. Sunrise Medical, the makers of the Quickie wheelchairs, have a bad habit of using hardened socket-head machine screws to fasten aluminum assemblies. After a few years, these screws can become almost impossible to remove due to the corrosion between the steel and aluminum. Sunrise isn't the only maker that does this, but they're the biggest one. I've often asked their tech support folks whether their engineers have ever heard of galvanic corrosion or metal galling. A good demonstration of GC is to use an aluminum patch for a hole in your car fender. DAMHIKT! IF I _do_ manage to get them apart, when they go back together, there's a healthy dose of Never-Sieze on the screws. I haven't yet had one of the screws loosen, but they're easily removed the next time the chair comes in for service. |
Any Ideas?
On Tue, 15 Nov 2005 08:40:32 -0500, Proctologically Violated©® wrote:
More successive drilling, pray to goddamm god you drill *straight* and fairly on-center so's you don't screw up the threads, and eventually "peel" off what's left of bolt in the aluminum hole, mebbe clean out what's left w/ a tap, at that point. Get thee a set of left-hand twist drill bits for this job. The torque and heat from drilling has backed out stuck bolts for me in this situation. Worst case, you still have a hole, so you're no worse off than with a right-hand drill bit. But yeah, keep it straight. Make a guide to help with that, maybe? See the threads here on PB Blaster, Kroil, etc, for the *next* time. g anti-seize is made for this, isn't it? You know, the grey "jumping grease" that gets on _everything_? Dave Hinz |
Any Ideas?
Proctologically Violated©® wrote:
More successive drilling, pray to goddamm god you drill *straight* and fairly on-center so's you don't screw up the threads, and eventually "peel" off what's left of bolt in the aluminum hole, mebbe clean out what's left w/ a tap, at that point. Also can use concentrated nitric acid (bomb quality g), which dissolves Fe but leaves Al alone. Can try that now, or proly better after drilling, say, a 3/16-1/4 hole thru a 3/8 bolt. Others have said this works, and chemically it is entirely valid, but I tried it once for a 1/4-20 tap that broke off in Alum, and it didn't work for me--coulda been ****ty nitric, could be some steel alloys are more resistant than others, dunno. See the threads here on PB Blaster, Kroil, etc, for the *next* time. g Ahm not an auto 'spert (or any kind of spert, except on things like Harold bein a spineless moralistic turncoat asshole), but you can also try the fellows at rec.autos.tech. ---------------------------- Mr. P.V.'d formerly Droll Troll "Relz" wrote in message ... Well, I've gone and done it. I was changing out the water pump in my car and I busted off a bolt in the aluminum block. So, I tried an easyout. After breaking that thing off in there I decided to weld a nut to the little bit of bolt that was sticking out. The result is now a bolt that is completely flush with the block and it has an easyout broke off in it. I'm thinking of just putting it back together and hoping that it doesn't leak with the one bolt missing. Does anyone else have any other tricks up their sleeves? Relz The nitric acid won't work unless you can change it out regularly (it weakens as it reacts with the iron), and you're willing to wait a few days as it eats through the eazy-out. Too late now, but he would've been better off just drilling out the bolt and putting in a helicoil. Once a steel fastener rusts and seizes in aluminum, the chance of getting it out cleanly is somewhere between slim and none. |
Any Ideas?
Richard J Kinch wrote:
Relz writes: Does anyone else have any other tricks up their sleeves? You have to assume that bolt isn't coming out, so forget more welding, etc. Create a decent center dimple on the stump by cutting crossed slots with a Dremel type cutoff tool. Use a hand drill to drill out enough to get a thread repair tap and coil in there. The real problem here is the busted off easyout (should be called a nowayout). I would suggest a carbide drill - the 'tipped' variety - usually sold to drill concrete or rock. With care and a little luck it will eat the easyout for breakfast. A solid carbide drill costs mucho and will break if you look at it the wrong way. Those damned easyouts should be outlawed! Around here we use aircraft-grade gasket goo. Liberally slathered on the bolt it will prevent seizing even when the assembly in routinely submrged in salt water! Regards. Ken. |
Any Ideas?
On Tue, 15 Nov 2005 15:06:03 GMT, with neither quill nor qualm,
"William Wixon" quickly quoth: i was wondering if you guys put grease on the (new) bolt(s) when you reassemble it so that it can't happen again. when i reassemble stuff with steel bolts into aluminum castings i put grease on the bolts but i'm wondering if that's a bad thing to do. so far as i Yes, it is. Grease can either allow them to come loose or it can evaporate and you end up with stuck bolts anyway. Use an anti-seize compound for aluminum instead. ----- = The wealth of reality, cannot be seen from your locality. = http://www.diversify.com Comprehensive Website Development |
Any Ideas?
|
Any Ideas?
On Tue, 15 Nov 2005 15:06:03 GMT, "William Wixon"
wrote: i was wondering if you guys put grease on the (new) bolt(s) when you reassemble it so that it can't happen again. when i reassemble stuff with steel bolts into aluminum castings i put grease on the bolts but i'm wondering if that's a bad thing to do. so far as i know the bolts that i've done this to haven't worked themselves loose, i torque them down to the specified values, etc. i always figured it was water getting in there that caused the problem to begin with, either that the water caused the aluminum to corrode and locked the bolt (with that white aluminum corrosion frazz) or there was a galvanic reaction between the steel and aluminum that corroded the aluminum and created that white frazz that locked the bolt.(?) b.w. I always use copper never seize when putting car stuff back together. Course..I have about 20 cans of it Gunner "Searcher1" wrote in message news:Kxmef.15726$rO4.1417@trnddc05... WHen that happens to me, I drill the broken bolt with 1/2 the dia of the bolt. By all means go slow and true! Tap in a flathead screwdriver bit that fits to a 3/8 ratchet, tap it in tight. Apply small heat to the AL , hope to hell it turns out, 9 X out of 10 this works for me. Searcher "Pax Americana is a philosophy. Hardly an empire. Making sure other people play nice and dont kill each other (and us) off in job lots is hardly empire building, particularly when you give them self determination under "play nice" rules. Think of it as having your older brother knock the **** out of you for torturing the cat." Gunner |
Any Ideas?
Relz wrote:
"DE" wrote Nothing easy about a E Zout IME. Try welding a washer to the stub then a nut on the washer. Someone else might have a better strategy. Oh yea toss whats left of the EZouts, DE I was surprised at how easy it was to break the EZout. I've heard the straight, tapered style are better. Does anyone have any experience with this style? All EZouts are potentially the tool of the Devil. |
Any Ideas?
On Tue, 15 Nov 2005 10:16:10 -0600, "Relz"
wrote: "DE" wrote Nothing easy about a E Zout IME. Try welding a washer to the stub then a nut on the washer. Someone else might have a better strategy. Oh yea toss whats left of the EZouts, DE I was surprised at how easy it was to break the EZout. I've heard the straight, tapered style are better. Does anyone have any experience with this style? IMO ez outs should require a license to own. Yes the square tapered are much better than the spiral version. However you still have to know how to use them and it's not as ez as people think. First off with the aluminum job you're in a bad shape. It's probably possible to get it out but it will not be a easy job. I've had people bring me these in after spending two days drilling on them making the biggest mess you've ever seen. I pulled at least 5 pieces of broken drill bit points out of one these (many of them going off at every angle imaginable into the aluminum). Took me 1 1/2 hours to do what should of been a 15 minute job just because they tried to do it themselves. Since you've got the easy out stuck in there you're limited on what you can do. The best method would be EDM but it can be hard to get the piece off and find a place who will do it. The carbide drill suggested by another poster is another possibility. However the likely hood of being able to do it with a hand drill is low with it on the car and not messing up the aluminum at the same time. It will probably take a good many of the carbide bits to get it done as well. A carbide burr in a dremel at low speed is actually one of the better ways to go if you don't have the skill to weld to the easy out and get it out of the bolt. BTW you really need to use stainless to weld to the easy out. Mild steel rod has a low chance of ever getting a good hold on the high carbon steel in the easy out. As for the bolt in the aluminum remember two things. Heat is you friend in a case like this and patients is a virtue on a job like this. Don't get in a hurry. Don't put to much force on a easy out. If the bolt didn't come out with the full size of the bolt turning it then the small size of the easy out isn't likely to do it either. Easy outs are for bolts that broke when tightening or broke because of to much force was put on them. Not for bolts that broke because they wouldn't turn when trying to remove them. For those kinds of bolts then something has to change before the easy out has a chance to work. Either the piece is heated to red heat (not possible on aluminum) and allowed to cool or some other thing has happened to loosen the stuck threads. The way I would of gone about trying to remove this bolt is that I would of first welded a washer on it (preferably with stainless rod). Then I would of welded a nut on the washer. Then I would of heated everything as much as I could without melting the aluminum and allow to cool. Then I would of tapped on the bolt/nut combination to try and get things broken up a little (note tap not hit, small hammer light blows). Spraying with a good penetrating oil may or may not help but it rarely hurts. Carefully try to work the bolt back and forth. Just trying to unscrew it rarely works. You need to try and break up the corrosion in the threads. Wiggling a slightly loose crescent wrench back and forth on the nut is a good way to get the light blows needed to work it loose. If you can ever get it to move slightly back and forth then the odds of you getting it out are pretty good. Just keep working it till it moves more and more. Once it starts moving keep blasting it with penetrating oil to try and work some into the threads. It will most likely come out if you keep this up and don't get in a hurry. If the bolt never does move after a good bit of careful working back and forth then you can try with a little more force. Slowly working it back and forth with more force till it either moves or the nut breaks off the bolt. In which case you've got two choices. Welding another nut on the bolt (in some cases it may take a dozen tries before the heat of welding and the working causes the bolt to finally come free) or you can drill it out. This is hard to do for many since it's really hard to get in the center of the bolt when drilling. Start small and work your way up through the drill index till you just start to see threads on one side of the hole then stop. At this point depending on how accurate you drilled the hole you can start working on picking the threads out or you can start working on getting the rest of the bolt out to the threads with a carbide burr in a dremel (the last is the most likely scenario). For the most part I don't recommend using a tap to get the remaining threads out. There's to much chance of the tap getting bound in the hole and breaking. With care it can work but even with care they will sometimes get bound up. Wow that's rather long and rambling. Hopefully somebody will get some good out part of it. This a subject that hits close to home since I'm usually the one everybody brings these things to after they've already made a mess of it. It's much easier for me if they just bring it to me in the first place. Wayne Cook Shamrock, TX http://members.dslextreme.com/users/waynecook/index.htm |
Any Ideas?
It's a water pump, right? So the worst thing that will happen is that it
will leak coolant. No big deal. So I would just bolt it up with the remaining bolts and a big gob of RTV gasket goop and see if it leaks... Unless you want to pull the motor, you aren't going to be able to either drill it straight, keep nitric acid on it, or any of the other solutions... BTW, my 19 year-old smart-alek son calls this 'Hardy boy' work, as in, "Dad, you going to Hardy boy this thing or do it right?" |
Any Ideas?
"Emmo" wrote in message ... It's a water pump, right? So the worst thing that will happen is that it will leak coolant. No big deal. So I would just bolt it up with the remaining bolts and a big gob of RTV gasket goop and see if it leaks... well, maybe. on a previous vette, the optispark distributor is underneath the water pump. if the water pumpt leaks, the optispark corrodes and needs replacement (ie, hundreds of dollars). gm didn't learn to do this right for about 4 model years. Unless you want to pull the motor, you aren't going to be able to either drill it straight, keep nitric acid on it, or any of the other solutions... BTW, my 19 year-old smart-alek son calls this 'Hardy boy' work, as in, "Dad, you going to Hardy boy this thing or do it right?" regards, charlie http://glassartists.org/chaniarts |
Any Ideas?
On Tue, 15 Nov 2005 12:32:36 -0700, Charles Spitzer wrote:
well, maybe. on a previous vette, the optispark distributor is underneath the water pump. if the water pumpt leaks, the optispark corrodes and needs replacement (ie, hundreds of dollars). gm didn't learn to do this right for about 4 model years. Well, "do this right", I guess, depends on if you think the engineers, or the beancounters, were in charge of the decision. |
Any Ideas?
Dave Hinz wrote:
On Tue, 15 Nov 2005 12:32:36 -0700, Charles Spitzer wrote: well, maybe. on a previous vette, the optispark distributor is underneath the water pump. if the water pumpt leaks, the optispark corrodes and needs replacement (ie, hundreds of dollars). gm didn't learn to do this right for about 4 model years. Well, "do this right", I guess, depends on if you think the engineers, or the beancounters, were in charge of the decision. Or - if you have to abandon the bolt/location as a fastener how about rigging up a clamping arrangement outboard of the water pump flange? Ken. |
Any Ideas?
Tim Killian wrote:
Too late now, but he would've been better off just drilling out the bolt and putting in a helicoil. Once a steel fastener rusts and seizes in aluminum, the chance of getting it out cleanly is somewhere between slim and none. Yeah, and Slim rode out of town at high noon yesterday..... Jeff -- Jeffry Wisnia (W1BSV + Brass Rat '57 EE) "Truth exists; only falsehood has to be invented." |
Any Ideas?
Dave Hinz wrote:
See the threads here on PB Blaster, Kroil, etc, for the *next* time. g anti-seize is made for this, isn't it? You know, the grey "jumping grease" that gets on _everything_? Dave Hinz I think he was talking about something to get the already stuck bolt loose... If it's stuckded already it's too late for anti-seize unless your grandaddy was H.G. Wells and he left you plans for a time machine. Jeff -- Jeffry Wisnia (W1BSV + Brass Rat '57 EE) "Truth exists; only falsehood has to be invented." |
Any Ideas?
On Tue, 15 Nov 2005 16:24:58 -0500, Jeff Wisnia wrote:
Dave Hinz wrote: See the threads here on PB Blaster, Kroil, etc, for the *next* time. g anti-seize is made for this, isn't it? You know, the grey "jumping grease" that gets on _everything_? I think he was talking about something to get the already stuck bolt loose... Right, but so there isn't a next time where he needs kroil, the anti-seize is the way to go. If it's stuckded already it's too late for anti-seize unless your grandaddy was H.G. Wells and he left you plans for a time machine. I'm not allowed to discuss it. |
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Ken Davey wrote:
Richard J Kinch wrote: Those damned easyouts should be outlawed! The only thing they ever got out easy was the money from my wallet when I bought a small set years ago. Never found anything stuck lightly enough for them to do any good on. Jeff -- Jeffry Wisnia (W1BSV + Brass Rat '57 EE) "Truth exists; only falsehood has to be invented." |
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Jeff Wisnia wrote:
Ken Davey wrote: Richard J Kinch wrote: Those damned easyouts should be outlawed! The only thing they ever got out easy was the money from my wallet when I bought a small set years ago. Never found anything stuck lightly enough for them to do any good on. Jeff I used one for the first time ever, successfully, to pull out a corroded AA battery from a minimag flashlight after drilling out the core. I was amazed, of course I spent more time and energy then what the minimag is worth. cheers T. Alan |
Any Ideas?
When drilling the broken bolt or stud out, it's obviously important to
drill on center and straight. A guide really helps. If a bolt or stud is broken beneath the surface, and there are a few threads showing, I'll drill out a same size bolt on the lathe, thread it into the hole, and use that to guide the drill. Same thing if there are threads above the hole, except that I'll use a nut or coupler nut to connect the broken bolt and the drilled guide bolt. If neither of those will work, I'll often use the original part to guide a full size drill bit to spot the hole, then drill with the correct smaller size drill. Or, use the part to hold a guide bushing to start the drill. John Martin |
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Jim Stewart wrote:
Relz wrote: "DE" wrote Nothing easy about a E Zout IME. Try welding a washer to the stub then a nut on the washer. Someone else might have a better strategy. Oh yea toss whats left of the EZouts, DE I was surprised at how easy it was to break the EZout. I've heard the straight, tapered style are better. Does anyone have any experience with this style? All EZouts are potentially the tool of the Devil. There is no such thing as an easy out. Drilling and a helicoil or other thread fixing device is the way to go. With aluminum and steel you dont need locktite. G never sieze is the stuff to use when you put that pump back on. John |
Any Ideas?
"Relz" wrote in message ... Well, I've gone and done it. I was changing out the water pump in my car and I busted off a bolt in the aluminum block. So, I tried an easyout. After breaking that thing off in there I decided to weld a nut to the little bit of bolt that was sticking out. The result is now a bolt that is completely flush with the block and it has an easyout broke off in it. I'm thinking of just putting it back together and hoping that it doesn't leak with the one bolt missing. Does anyone else have any other tricks up their sleeves? Relz I want to thank everyone for all their input and suggestions. I thought I'd give you all an update and ask a few more questions: To begin with, I work in the same building with a welding company. I talked with a welder over there and he agreed that welding stainless would work out better. He even lent me a spool of stainless to take home and use. He also suggested heating said broken bolt off before welding to it. He was saying that it would weld better if the bolt was pre-heated. Is this sound doctrine in your guys' experience? He even suggested using a plasma cutter. He told me of a situation where he used a plasma cutter to blast out a tap without wrecking the internal threads. I've seen my dad cut nuts off a bolt without harming the bolt threads, but he used an oxy-acetalene torch, not a plasma cutter. If I had a plasma cutter, I would grab some scrap and see if this idea works. Can I get a volunteer? Can someone try this out and let the group know how it works? I was telling my dad about my predicament. He went over to my house today while I was at work. He called me to tell me that he got the bolt out. I asked him how he did it and if he used the stainless welding wire. Now, you have to realize that this man's background is from the farm and he has been working on the railroad for decades. He's used to big, crude, rusty objects that weigh tons and tons. He's used to using rosebuds on the end of 3-foot torches and breaking out the sledgehammer to fix any problems, you see. So, between railroad repair experience and a farmer gotta-get-it-done attitude he decides to drill some holes just above the busted bolt and one below it for punch access. He basically beats the bolt up enough that he can then get on it with a pair of needlenose pliers and pull the thing out. There was only about a 1/4 inch of bolt engagment left in the block (it broke off as I was backing it out). I'm hearing this over the phone and I'm used to a little finer precision than what a sledgehammer can bring, so in my mind I'm envisioning a complete mess. But I have faith in my dad. He's taught me an awful lot. He says that I just need to put a little JB Weld in there and I'll be good to go. "JB Weld?", I ask; I've only used it on oil pans before. I would think the proper way to do it would be to fill the drilled holes in with weld, bolt on the old pump, use a transfer punch to locate the hole, then drill and tap my way to a perfect fix. In his opinion, that was way to much fuss. He's used JB Weld to repair tractor engine blocks before and has stories of repairing 3/4 ton Ford differentials with this magical mixture. I checked the JB Weld website and this stuff bonds with aluminum and is good up to 500 degrees F. I figure I'll give this stuff a try and if it doesn't work then I'll dig or chip it out and figure out how to weld aluminum. And I'm definitely going to get some anti-seize compound to slather on the bolts before I put them back in. So, that's where I'm at now. Relz |
Any Ideas?
DE wrote in
: Nothing easy about a E Zout IME. Try welding a washer to the stub then a nut on the washer. Someone else might have a better strategy. Oh yea toss whats left I've never had any luck with EZ outs. The Alden screw extractors actually work. You need enough room to use a power drill though. http://www.aldn.com/ -- Dan |
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