OK guys, help me find a gear for my lathe.
Enco 1024
Enco is no help.

Suggestions welcome.

Rex B


-------- Original Message --------
Subject: part inquiry Enco lathe

Rex:
Unfortunatly I have no information on your lathe except that it is not
interchangable with the #110-2034. That lathe was discontinued several years
ago. Sorry I couldn't help you.
Glenn X6220

-----Original Message-----
From: Rex Burkheimer ]
To: Enco Customer Service
Subject: part inquiry Enco lathe


Model 1024 Lathe, built 1986
I need a compound gear in the quick change gearbox.
This is a 16/32 tooth gear, with a bronze bushing bore of approx 19/32
I do not have a manual, so am using the 110-2034 manual as a reference.
The construction is similar, perhaps the gears are common to my lathe.
In that manual, the part is #45, part number is 3D-2

Can you supply this part?

--
Rex Burkheimer
Marketing Director, WM Automotive Warehouse
Fort Worth TX 817.834.5559 x3105
Visit our forum at http://wmautomotive.com/forum
This e-mail is intended for the use of the addressee(s) only and may contain
privileged, confidential, or proprietary information that is exempt from
disclosure under law. If you are not the intended recipient, please do not
read, copy, use or disclose the contents of this communication to others.
Please notify the sender that you have received this e-mail in error by
replying to the e-mail. Please then delete the e-mail and destroy any copies
of it. Thank you.


--
Rex Burkheimer
Marketing Director, WM Automotive Warehouse
Fort Worth TX 817.834.5559 x3105
Visit our forum at http://wmautomotive.com/forum

In article ,
Rex Burkheimer wrote:
OK guys, help me find a gear for my lathe.
Enco 1024
Enco is no help.

[ ... ]

I need a compound gear in the quick change gearbox.
This is a 16/32 tooth gear, with a bronze bushing bore of approx 19/32
I do not have a manual, so am using the 110-2034 manual as a reference.
The construction is similar, perhaps the gears are common to my lathe.
In that manual, the part is #45, part number is 3D-2

Suggestions welcome.

First off -- you need more information in your article, as I
suggested to the previous request.

Your 19/32" is almost certainly 15.00 mm instead, and we need
other information such as the OD (from which the pitch diameter can
probably be determined), and it possible the detailed tooth form.

Your dimensions should be in metric units, as this machine was
manufactured in a metric country, and all imperial units (such as you r
19/32") will have to be converted to metric before anything meaningful
can be calculated.

You might also include the tooth width to give those who have
metric gear catalogs a chance of finding matching gears to use, even if
you are planning to bore out an existing good gear, and turn down the
broken one for a press fit.

If you have a milling machine and a dividing head, you can
probably turn a ring of similar metal, press fit it, and cut new gear
teeth.

People have also been known to weld or braze material into the
broken tooth area and to cut new teeth after setting the index head from
the remaining teeth.

Good Luck,
DoN.
--
Email: | Voice (all times): (703) 938-4564
(too) near Washington D.C. | http://www.d-and-d.com/dnichols/DoN.html
--- Black Holes are where God is dividing by zero ---

DoN. Nichols wrote:
Rex Burkheimer wrote:
OK guys, help me find a gear for my lathe.
Enco 1024
Enco is no help.

I need a compound gear in the quick change gearbox.
This is a 16/32 tooth gear, with a bronze bushing bore of approx 19/32
I do not have a manual, so am using the 110-2034 manual as a reference.
The construction is similar, perhaps the gears are common to my lathe.
In that manual, the part is #45, part number is 3D-2



First off -- you need more information in your article, as I
suggested to the previous request.

Your 19/32" is almost certainly 15.00 mm instead, and we need
other information such as the OD (from which the pitch diameter can
probably be determined), and it possible the detailed tooth form.

Your dimensions should be in metric units, as this machine was
manufactured in a metric country, and all imperial units (such as you r
19/32") will have to be converted to metric before anything meaningful
can be calculated.

Don, I agree, but I was at home, and all my measuring tools and charts
ar at the shop. I was really hoping someone might have a spare one
laying around.

If you have a milling machine and a dividing head, you can
probably turn a ring of similar metal, press fit it, and cut new gear
teeth.

I have both, but don't feel up to that task, unless as a last resort. I
have used the milling machine hardly at all, and the indexer not at all.

People have also been known to weld or braze material into the
broken tooth area and to cut new teeth after setting the index head from
the remaining teeth.

All the teeth are distorted on this one.

I will get more precise measurements and try to figure it out from the
Boston Gear catalog.

Thanks for the input.

Rex

"Rex Burkheimer" wrote in message
...
OK guys, help me find a gear for my lathe.
Enco 1024
Enco is no help.

Suggestions welcome.

Rex B

I would look for a stock gear that you can cut down or boar out to get the
job gone.

Try : http://www.martinsprocket.com/

--

Roger Shoaf

About the time I had mastered getting the toothpaste back in the tube, then
they come up with this striped stuff.

In article , Rex B "" wrote:
DoN. Nichols wrote:
Rex Burkheimer wrote:
OK guys, help me find a gear for my lathe.

[ ... ]

Your dimensions should be in metric units, as this machine was
manufactured in a metric country, and all imperial units (such as you r
19/32") will have to be converted to metric before anything meaningful
can be calculated.

Don, I agree, but I was at home, and all my measuring tools and charts
ar at the shop. I was really hoping someone might have a spare one
laying around.

Well ... since there were apparently several versions of this
made, I think that you'll need the more precise measurements anyway so
someone can know whether what they have is right or not.

[ ... ]

People have also been known to weld or braze material into the
broken tooth area and to cut new teeth after setting the index head from
the remaining teeth.

All the teeth are distorted on this one.

Ouch! This means that you will have to check the module shape
and the pressure angle on the gear which meshes with it, as everything
is too distorted to work from.

I will get more precise measurements and try to figure it out from the
Boston Gear catalog.

Thanks for the input.

You're welcome.

Good Luck,
DoN.

--
Email: | Voice (all times): (703) 938-4564
(too) near Washington D.C. | http://www.d-and-d.com/dnichols/DoN.html
--- Black Holes are where God is dividing by zero ---

Roger Shoaf wrote:
"Rex Burkheimer" wrote in message
...
OK guys, help me find a gear for my lathe.
Enco 1024
Enco is no help.

Those South Bends, Logans and Clausings are looking better now aren't
they. You can still buy these parts both new and used for the American
iron and the Chineese iron is unobtainium. As a general rule, it seems,
that spares become nonexistent when the machines go out of production.
Not really logical given that few machines require parts until they
begin to show signs of age.

On 28 Jun 2005 19:15:44 -0700, wrote:



Roger Shoaf wrote:
"Rex Burkheimer" wrote in message
...
OK guys, help me find a gear for my lathe.
Enco 1024
Enco is no help.

Those South Bends, Logans and Clausings are looking better now aren't
they. You can still buy these parts both new and used for the American
iron and the Chineese iron is unobtainium. As a general rule, it seems,
that spares become nonexistent when the machines go out of production.
Not really logical given that few machines require parts until they
begin to show signs of age.


Indeed! Another reason to hunt for American iron.

Gunner

"Pax Americana is a philosophy. Hardly an empire.
Making sure other people play nice and dont kill each other (and us)
off in job lots is hardly empire building, particularly when you give
them self determination under "play nice" rules.

Think of it as having your older brother knock the **** out of you
for torturing the cat." Gunner

Roger Shoaf wrote:

"Rex Burkheimer" wrote in message
...

OK guys, help me find a gear for my lathe.
Enco 1024
Enco is no help.


Those South Bends, Logans and Clausings are looking better now aren't
they. You can still buy these parts both new and used for the American
iron and the Chineese iron is unobtainium. As a general rule, it seems,
that spares become nonexistent when the machines go out of production.
Not really logical given that few machines require parts until they
begin to show signs of age.

Hey, I like the challenge of repairing the difficult. And I have a Logan
lathe to do it with :P

People have also been known to weld or braze material into the
broken tooth area and to cut new teeth after setting the index head from
the remaining teeth.

All the teeth are distorted on this one.


Ouch! This means that you will have to check the module shape
and the pressure angle on the gear which meshes with it, as everything
is too distorted to work from.

Actually, the gear right next to it is perfect, and identical. So I have
a great pattern.

- -
Rex Burkheimer
WM Automotive
Fort Worth TX

Roger Shoaf wrote:
"Rex Burkheimer" wrote in message
...

OK guys, help me find a gear for my lathe.
Enco 1024
Enco is no help.

Suggestions welcome.

Rex B


I would look for a stock gear that you can cut down or boar out to get the
job gone.

Try : http://www.martinsprocket.com/

Will do. I did that on an Atlas last year, exact same situation, also a
16/32, albeit smaller. I did have a bit of a problem chucking onto the
good gear (32 Tooth) so I could cut uff the bad gear that shared the
common hub. I used a 3-jaw chuck, but I can see that a 4-jaw is the
better choice based on simple division. Is there a better workholding
method that is easier on the gear teeth? I do not have an arbor for
this size but would buy one if that's the best tool.

snip
I do not have an arbor for
this size but would buy one if that's the best tool.
Make an arbor. Another good excuse to make, tools to make tools,
to ....

GmcD

Those South Bends, Logans and Clausings are looking better now aren't
they. You can still buy these parts both new and used for the American
iron and the Chineese iron is unobtainium. As a general rule, it seems,

Thats not entirely true. More and more parts for clausing machines are
becoming unavailable. There are no parts for my rockwell machines.

chuck

Chuck Sherwood wrote:
Those South Bends, Logans and Clausings are looking better now aren't
they. You can still buy these parts both new and used for the American
iron and the Chineese iron is unobtainium. As a general rule, it seems,


Thats not entirely true. More and more parts for clausing machines are
becoming unavailable. There are no parts for my rockwell machines.

Well, to be fair... This is an Enco brand, made in 1986. Enco is still
in business. If it were an American-made machine, and the company was
still around, there would be parts available, at some price.
For example, Clausing still offers most parts for the Atlas lathes,
last made around 1970. They did not have this same gear for a lathe made
in the early 1950s, but it was listed as recently as 4 years ago.
That's a 50 year old lathe, not 20 like the Enco. 20 years is well
within the normal service life of any lathe.
Shame on Enco for not making an effort to support their older sales.

Rex B

In article .com,
wrote:

Roger Shoaf wrote:
"Rex Burkheimer" wrote in message
...
OK guys, help me find a gear for my lathe.
Enco 1024
Enco is no help.

Those South Bends, Logans and Clausings are looking better now aren't
they. You can still buy these parts both new and used for the American
iron and the Chineese iron is unobtainium. As a general rule, it seems,
that spares become nonexistent when the machines go out of production.
Not really logical given that few machines require parts until they
begin to show signs of age.

How fricking hard can it be to find a metric gear, given you have
others in the gear train and the original, though damaged one? Sheesh.
I'd *never* approach the lathe manufacturer in a case like this unless
the gear had internal splines or something really, really oddball. And
maybe not even then. You'd pay far more than a gear supplier would
charge.

PDW

snip
How fricking hard can it be to find a metric gear, given you have
others in the gear train and the original, though damaged one? Sheesh.
I'd *never* approach the lathe manufacturer in a case like this unless
the gear had internal splines or something really, really oddball. And
maybe not even then. You'd pay far more than a gear supplier would
charge.
PDW
=================================
the problem may be that because metric gears are generally
specified by module and pd, it is difficult to identify. Try
this:

(1) Count the number of teeth on the good gear. (I sugest marking
a space and not the tooth where you start.)

(2) Measure the outside diameter of the good gear in m/m

(3) Add 2 to the number of teeth [step 1]

(4) Divide the outside diameter of the gear by the number of
teeth + 2. This will be the metric module, typically 1.00 or
1.50 for lathes in that size range.

(5) Measure the width of the teeth of the good gear in m/m.

Use google to look for gears you can adapt. If the gear cluster
is not hard you should be able to machine off the damaged gear,
and modify an existing gear to replace it. The newer epoxies
combined with a light press fit should prove adequate, or you can
drill/ream a 1/8 or 3/16 diameter hole at the joint between the
shaft and gear and install a dowel pin as a round keyway.

F. George McDuffee wrote:

it is difficult to identify.

If it's difficult, then it might me the description. :-)

One way:
m = do / (t+2)

with: m = module; do = diameter (outer), t = #of teeth

Or the other way (with two meshing gears):
m = dist * 2 / (t1 + t2)

with:
dist.: distance between axles
t1, t2: # of teeth of gear1 & gear2
m: module


Nick


--
Motormodelle / Engine Models:
http://www.motor-manufaktur.de
Ellwe 2FB * VTM 87 * DLM-S3a * cubic
more to come ...

Let the record show that Gunner wrote back on
Wed, 29 Jun 2005 11:18:44 GMT in rec.crafts.metalworking :

Roger Shoaf wrote:
"Rex Burkheimer" wrote in message
...
OK guys, help me find a gear for my lathe.
Enco 1024
Enco is no help.

Those South Bends, Logans and Clausings are looking better now aren't
they. You can still buy these parts both new and used for the American
iron and the Chineese iron is unobtainium. As a general rule, it seems,
that spares become nonexistent when the machines go out of production.
Not really logical given that few machines require parts until they
begin to show signs of age.

Maybe people ought to consider making the spare parts before the
machine breaks and they can't make those parts. You can do it in your
"spare time". From the spare steel you just happen to have laying about.

Indeed! Another reason to hunt for American iron.

yeah.
--
pyotr filipivich.
as an explaination for the decline in the US's tech edge, James
Niccol wrote "It used to be that the USA was pretty good at
producing stuff teenaged boys could lose a finger or two playing with."

I dunno where to get that specific part or a nearly identical part. You
may/probably need to consider making it.

I was thinking that a 16T gear that fits that sized shaft wouldn't have a
lot of material between the teeth and the hole (especially with a bearing
bush), but I don't have one handy to compare it to.

As for possible sources of metric gears to use for a repair, see what you
can scrounge up in the way of imported reduction gearheads or other power
tools with gears in 'em.
Gears from something made in Japan, of recent manufacture, would very likely
be of high quality.

Still, if you find a 16T, it will still need some modification to mate with
a good 32T.
You haven't said if these gears are made in one piece, smack together, or if
they have a section of common drive material between them.

It would seem odd to me that these gears are in such bad condition if the
others are in very good condition. If they were just too soft, it's
explained.

WB
.............

"Rex Burkheimer" wrote in message
...
OK guys, help me find a gear for my lathe.
Enco 1024
Enco is no help.

Suggestions welcome.

Rex B


-------- Original Message --------
Subject: part inquiry Enco lathe

Rex:
Unfortunatly I have no information on your lathe except that it is not
interchangable with the #110-2034. That lathe was discontinued several
years
ago. Sorry I couldn't help you.
Glenn X6220

-----Original Message-----
From: Rex Burkheimer ]
To: Enco Customer Service
Subject: part inquiry Enco lathe


Model 1024 Lathe, built 1986
I need a compound gear in the quick change gearbox.
This is a 16/32 tooth gear, with a bronze bushing bore of approx 19/32
I do not have a manual, so am using the 110-2034 manual as a reference.
The construction is similar, perhaps the gears are common to my lathe.
In that manual, the part is #45, part number is 3D-2

Can you supply this part?

--
Rex Burkheimer
Marketing Director, WM Automotive Warehouse
Fort Worth TX 817.834.5559 x3105
Visit our forum at http://wmautomotive.com/forum
This e-mail is intended for the use of the addressee(s) only and may
contain
privileged, confidential, or proprietary information that is exempt from
disclosure under law. If you are not the intended recipient, please do not
read, copy, use or disclose the contents of this communication to others.
Please notify the sender that you have received this e-mail in error by
replying to the e-mail. Please then delete the e-mail and destroy any
copies
of it. Thank you.


--
Rex Burkheimer
Marketing Director, WM Automotive Warehouse
Fort Worth TX 817.834.5559 x3105
Visit our forum at http://wmautomotive.com/forum




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On Fri, 01 Jul 2005 10:07:57 GMT, pyotr filipivich
wrote:

Maybe people ought to consider making the spare parts before the
machine breaks and they can't make those parts. You can do it in your
"spare time". From the spare steel you just happen to have laying about.


The question arises.."which" spare part? Taken to the logical
extreme, one should have at least 1 spare and complete lathe, and then
a spare lathe for the spare lathe, and a spare lathe for the spare
lathe, for the lathe....

Gunner

"Considering the events of recent years,
the world has a long way to go to regain
its credibility and reputation with the US."
unknown

On Sat, 02 Jul 2005 20:14:38 GMT, Gunner
wrote:

The question arises.."which" spare part? Taken to the logical
extreme, one should have at least 1 spare and complete lathe, and then
a spare lathe for the spare lathe, and a spare lathe for the spare
lathe, for the lathe....

This is why I use a 1978 Maytag dishwasher which has been totally
rebuilt over the years, have the same unit from 1989 (purchased for
$10 four years ago) as a spare, and most parts of another one ($1) in
a box out in the shed. I also have the "Maytag Man's" home address in
case I need parts on a Sunday morning.
Gerry :-)}
London, Canada

Let the record show that Gunner wrote back on Sat,
02 Jul 2005 20:14:38 GMT in rec.crafts.metalworking :
On Fri, 01 Jul 2005 10:07:57 GMT, pyotr filipivich
wrote:

Maybe people ought to consider making the spare parts before the
machine breaks and they can't make those parts. You can do it in your
"spare time". From the spare steel you just happen to have laying about.

The question arises.."which" spare part? Taken to the logical
extreme, one should have at least 1 spare and complete lathe, and then
a spare lathe for the spare lathe, and a spare lathe for the spare
lathe, for the lathe....

Yes, and your point...? :-) I'm sure as a machine broker, you would
not mind providing these second machines, eh no? For a reasonable fee,
it's not like I'm against people making a profit.

All you need to do is figure out which parts are going to break first,
and make the replacement part before they do.
Then in your afternoons, you can figure out the economic forecasts and
which stocks to buy or sell. Evenings you're free to do what you want.
And in your spare time, no doubt you can figure out the answer tot he
question: what do women want.
On second thought, lets go back to figuring out which part is going to
break first and making the replacement before it does.



Gunner

"Considering the events of recent years,
the world has a long way to go to regain
its credibility and reputation with the US."
unknown

--
pyotr filipivich.
as an explaination for the decline in the US's tech edge, James
Niccol wrote "It used to be that the USA was pretty good at
producing stuff teenaged boys could lose a finger or two playing with."