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Need a gear , older Enco lathe
OK guys, help me find a gear for my lathe.
Enco 1024 Enco is no help. Suggestions welcome. Rex B -------- Original Message -------- Subject: part inquiry Enco lathe Rex: Unfortunatly I have no information on your lathe except that it is not interchangable with the #110-2034. That lathe was discontinued several years ago. Sorry I couldn't help you. Glenn X6220 -----Original Message----- From: Rex Burkheimer ] To: Enco Customer Service Subject: part inquiry Enco lathe Model 1024 Lathe, built 1986 I need a compound gear in the quick change gearbox. This is a 16/32 tooth gear, with a bronze bushing bore of approx 19/32 I do not have a manual, so am using the 110-2034 manual as a reference. The construction is similar, perhaps the gears are common to my lathe. In that manual, the part is #45, part number is 3D-2 Can you supply this part? -- Rex Burkheimer Marketing Director, WM Automotive Warehouse Fort Worth TX 817.834.5559 x3105 Visit our forum at http://wmautomotive.com/forum This e-mail is intended for the use of the addressee(s) only and may contain privileged, confidential, or proprietary information that is exempt from disclosure under law. If you are not the intended recipient, please do not read, copy, use or disclose the contents of this communication to others. Please notify the sender that you have received this e-mail in error by replying to the e-mail. Please then delete the e-mail and destroy any copies of it. Thank you. -- Rex Burkheimer Marketing Director, WM Automotive Warehouse Fort Worth TX 817.834.5559 x3105 Visit our forum at http://wmautomotive.com/forum |
In article ,
Rex Burkheimer wrote: OK guys, help me find a gear for my lathe. Enco 1024 Enco is no help. [ ... ] I need a compound gear in the quick change gearbox. This is a 16/32 tooth gear, with a bronze bushing bore of approx 19/32 I do not have a manual, so am using the 110-2034 manual as a reference. The construction is similar, perhaps the gears are common to my lathe. In that manual, the part is #45, part number is 3D-2 Suggestions welcome. First off -- you need more information in your article, as I suggested to the previous request. Your 19/32" is almost certainly 15.00 mm instead, and we need other information such as the OD (from which the pitch diameter can probably be determined), and it possible the detailed tooth form. Your dimensions should be in metric units, as this machine was manufactured in a metric country, and all imperial units (such as you r 19/32") will have to be converted to metric before anything meaningful can be calculated. You might also include the tooth width to give those who have metric gear catalogs a chance of finding matching gears to use, even if you are planning to bore out an existing good gear, and turn down the broken one for a press fit. If you have a milling machine and a dividing head, you can probably turn a ring of similar metal, press fit it, and cut new gear teeth. People have also been known to weld or braze material into the broken tooth area and to cut new teeth after setting the index head from the remaining teeth. Good Luck, DoN. -- Email: | Voice (all times): (703) 938-4564 (too) near Washington D.C. | http://www.d-and-d.com/dnichols/DoN.html --- Black Holes are where God is dividing by zero --- |
DoN. Nichols wrote:
Rex Burkheimer wrote: OK guys, help me find a gear for my lathe. Enco 1024 Enco is no help. I need a compound gear in the quick change gearbox. This is a 16/32 tooth gear, with a bronze bushing bore of approx 19/32 I do not have a manual, so am using the 110-2034 manual as a reference. The construction is similar, perhaps the gears are common to my lathe. In that manual, the part is #45, part number is 3D-2 First off -- you need more information in your article, as I suggested to the previous request. Your 19/32" is almost certainly 15.00 mm instead, and we need other information such as the OD (from which the pitch diameter can probably be determined), and it possible the detailed tooth form. Your dimensions should be in metric units, as this machine was manufactured in a metric country, and all imperial units (such as you r 19/32") will have to be converted to metric before anything meaningful can be calculated. Don, I agree, but I was at home, and all my measuring tools and charts ar at the shop. I was really hoping someone might have a spare one laying around. If you have a milling machine and a dividing head, you can probably turn a ring of similar metal, press fit it, and cut new gear teeth. I have both, but don't feel up to that task, unless as a last resort. I have used the milling machine hardly at all, and the indexer not at all. People have also been known to weld or braze material into the broken tooth area and to cut new teeth after setting the index head from the remaining teeth. All the teeth are distorted on this one. I will get more precise measurements and try to figure it out from the Boston Gear catalog. Thanks for the input. Rex |
"Rex Burkheimer" wrote in message ... OK guys, help me find a gear for my lathe. Enco 1024 Enco is no help. Suggestions welcome. Rex B I would look for a stock gear that you can cut down or boar out to get the job gone. Try : http://www.martinsprocket.com/ -- Roger Shoaf About the time I had mastered getting the toothpaste back in the tube, then they come up with this striped stuff. |
In article , Rex B "" wrote:
DoN. Nichols wrote: Rex Burkheimer wrote: OK guys, help me find a gear for my lathe. [ ... ] Your dimensions should be in metric units, as this machine was manufactured in a metric country, and all imperial units (such as you r 19/32") will have to be converted to metric before anything meaningful can be calculated. Don, I agree, but I was at home, and all my measuring tools and charts ar at the shop. I was really hoping someone might have a spare one laying around. Well ... since there were apparently several versions of this made, I think that you'll need the more precise measurements anyway so someone can know whether what they have is right or not. [ ... ] People have also been known to weld or braze material into the broken tooth area and to cut new teeth after setting the index head from the remaining teeth. All the teeth are distorted on this one. Ouch! This means that you will have to check the module shape and the pressure angle on the gear which meshes with it, as everything is too distorted to work from. I will get more precise measurements and try to figure it out from the Boston Gear catalog. Thanks for the input. You're welcome. Good Luck, DoN. -- Email: | Voice (all times): (703) 938-4564 (too) near Washington D.C. | http://www.d-and-d.com/dnichols/DoN.html --- Black Holes are where God is dividing by zero --- |
Roger Shoaf wrote: "Rex Burkheimer" wrote in message ... OK guys, help me find a gear for my lathe. Enco 1024 Enco is no help. Those South Bends, Logans and Clausings are looking better now aren't they. You can still buy these parts both new and used for the American iron and the Chineese iron is unobtainium. As a general rule, it seems, that spares become nonexistent when the machines go out of production. Not really logical given that few machines require parts until they begin to show signs of age. |
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Roger Shoaf wrote:
"Rex Burkheimer" wrote in message ... OK guys, help me find a gear for my lathe. Enco 1024 Enco is no help. Those South Bends, Logans and Clausings are looking better now aren't they. You can still buy these parts both new and used for the American iron and the Chineese iron is unobtainium. As a general rule, it seems, that spares become nonexistent when the machines go out of production. Not really logical given that few machines require parts until they begin to show signs of age. Hey, I like the challenge of repairing the difficult. And I have a Logan lathe to do it with :P |
People have also been known to weld or braze material into the broken tooth area and to cut new teeth after setting the index head from the remaining teeth. All the teeth are distorted on this one. Ouch! This means that you will have to check the module shape and the pressure angle on the gear which meshes with it, as everything is too distorted to work from. Actually, the gear right next to it is perfect, and identical. So I have a great pattern. |
- - Rex Burkheimer WM Automotive Fort Worth TX Roger Shoaf wrote: "Rex Burkheimer" wrote in message ... OK guys, help me find a gear for my lathe. Enco 1024 Enco is no help. Suggestions welcome. Rex B I would look for a stock gear that you can cut down or boar out to get the job gone. Try : http://www.martinsprocket.com/ Will do. I did that on an Atlas last year, exact same situation, also a 16/32, albeit smaller. I did have a bit of a problem chucking onto the good gear (32 Tooth) so I could cut uff the bad gear that shared the common hub. I used a 3-jaw chuck, but I can see that a 4-jaw is the better choice based on simple division. Is there a better workholding method that is easier on the gear teeth? I do not have an arbor for this size but would buy one if that's the best tool. |
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I do not have an arbor for this size but would buy one if that's the best tool. Make an arbor. Another good excuse to make, tools to make tools, to .... GmcD |
Those South Bends, Logans and Clausings are looking better now aren't
they. You can still buy these parts both new and used for the American iron and the Chineese iron is unobtainium. As a general rule, it seems, Thats not entirely true. More and more parts for clausing machines are becoming unavailable. There are no parts for my rockwell machines. chuck |
Chuck Sherwood wrote: Those South Bends, Logans and Clausings are looking better now aren't they. You can still buy these parts both new and used for the American iron and the Chineese iron is unobtainium. As a general rule, it seems, Thats not entirely true. More and more parts for clausing machines are becoming unavailable. There are no parts for my rockwell machines. Well, to be fair... This is an Enco brand, made in 1986. Enco is still in business. If it were an American-made machine, and the company was still around, there would be parts available, at some price. For example, Clausing still offers most parts for the Atlas lathes, last made around 1970. They did not have this same gear for a lathe made in the early 1950s, but it was listed as recently as 4 years ago. That's a 50 year old lathe, not 20 like the Enco. 20 years is well within the normal service life of any lathe. Shame on Enco for not making an effort to support their older sales. Rex B |
In article .com,
wrote: Roger Shoaf wrote: "Rex Burkheimer" wrote in message ... OK guys, help me find a gear for my lathe. Enco 1024 Enco is no help. Those South Bends, Logans and Clausings are looking better now aren't they. You can still buy these parts both new and used for the American iron and the Chineese iron is unobtainium. As a general rule, it seems, that spares become nonexistent when the machines go out of production. Not really logical given that few machines require parts until they begin to show signs of age. How fricking hard can it be to find a metric gear, given you have others in the gear train and the original, though damaged one? Sheesh. I'd *never* approach the lathe manufacturer in a case like this unless the gear had internal splines or something really, really oddball. And maybe not even then. You'd pay far more than a gear supplier would charge. PDW |
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How fricking hard can it be to find a metric gear, given you have others in the gear train and the original, though damaged one? Sheesh. I'd *never* approach the lathe manufacturer in a case like this unless the gear had internal splines or something really, really oddball. And maybe not even then. You'd pay far more than a gear supplier would charge. PDW ================================= the problem may be that because metric gears are generally specified by module and pd, it is difficult to identify. Try this: (1) Count the number of teeth on the good gear. (I sugest marking a space and not the tooth where you start.) (2) Measure the outside diameter of the good gear in m/m (3) Add 2 to the number of teeth [step 1] (4) Divide the outside diameter of the gear by the number of teeth + 2. This will be the metric module, typically 1.00 or 1.50 for lathes in that size range. (5) Measure the width of the teeth of the good gear in m/m. Use google to look for gears you can adapt. If the gear cluster is not hard you should be able to machine off the damaged gear, and modify an existing gear to replace it. The newer epoxies combined with a light press fit should prove adequate, or you can drill/ream a 1/8 or 3/16 diameter hole at the joint between the shaft and gear and install a dowel pin as a round keyway. |
F. George McDuffee wrote:
it is difficult to identify. If it's difficult, then it might me the description. :-) One way: m = do / (t+2) with: m = module; do = diameter (outer), t = #of teeth Or the other way (with two meshing gears): m = dist * 2 / (t1 + t2) with: dist.: distance between axles t1, t2: # of teeth of gear1 & gear2 m: module Nick -- Motormodelle / Engine Models: http://www.motor-manufaktur.de Ellwe 2FB * VTM 87 * DLM-S3a * cubic more to come ... |
Let the record show that Gunner wrote back on
Wed, 29 Jun 2005 11:18:44 GMT in rec.crafts.metalworking : Roger Shoaf wrote: "Rex Burkheimer" wrote in message ... OK guys, help me find a gear for my lathe. Enco 1024 Enco is no help. Those South Bends, Logans and Clausings are looking better now aren't they. You can still buy these parts both new and used for the American iron and the Chineese iron is unobtainium. As a general rule, it seems, that spares become nonexistent when the machines go out of production. Not really logical given that few machines require parts until they begin to show signs of age. Maybe people ought to consider making the spare parts before the machine breaks and they can't make those parts. You can do it in your "spare time". From the spare steel you just happen to have laying about. Indeed! Another reason to hunt for American iron. yeah. -- pyotr filipivich. as an explaination for the decline in the US's tech edge, James Niccol wrote "It used to be that the USA was pretty good at producing stuff teenaged boys could lose a finger or two playing with." |
I dunno where to get that specific part or a nearly identical part. You
may/probably need to consider making it. I was thinking that a 16T gear that fits that sized shaft wouldn't have a lot of material between the teeth and the hole (especially with a bearing bush), but I don't have one handy to compare it to. As for possible sources of metric gears to use for a repair, see what you can scrounge up in the way of imported reduction gearheads or other power tools with gears in 'em. Gears from something made in Japan, of recent manufacture, would very likely be of high quality. Still, if you find a 16T, it will still need some modification to mate with a good 32T. You haven't said if these gears are made in one piece, smack together, or if they have a section of common drive material between them. It would seem odd to me that these gears are in such bad condition if the others are in very good condition. If they were just too soft, it's explained. WB ............. "Rex Burkheimer" wrote in message ... OK guys, help me find a gear for my lathe. Enco 1024 Enco is no help. Suggestions welcome. Rex B -------- Original Message -------- Subject: part inquiry Enco lathe Rex: Unfortunatly I have no information on your lathe except that it is not interchangable with the #110-2034. That lathe was discontinued several years ago. Sorry I couldn't help you. Glenn X6220 -----Original Message----- From: Rex Burkheimer ] To: Enco Customer Service Subject: part inquiry Enco lathe Model 1024 Lathe, built 1986 I need a compound gear in the quick change gearbox. This is a 16/32 tooth gear, with a bronze bushing bore of approx 19/32 I do not have a manual, so am using the 110-2034 manual as a reference. The construction is similar, perhaps the gears are common to my lathe. In that manual, the part is #45, part number is 3D-2 Can you supply this part? -- Rex Burkheimer Marketing Director, WM Automotive Warehouse Fort Worth TX 817.834.5559 x3105 Visit our forum at http://wmautomotive.com/forum This e-mail is intended for the use of the addressee(s) only and may contain privileged, confidential, or proprietary information that is exempt from disclosure under law. If you are not the intended recipient, please do not read, copy, use or disclose the contents of this communication to others. Please notify the sender that you have received this e-mail in error by replying to the e-mail. Please then delete the e-mail and destroy any copies of it. Thank you. -- Rex Burkheimer Marketing Director, WM Automotive Warehouse Fort Worth TX 817.834.5559 x3105 Visit our forum at http://wmautomotive.com/forum ----== Posted via Newsfeeds.Com - Unlimited-Uncensored-Secure Usenet News==---- http://www.newsfeeds.com The #1 Newsgroup Service in the World! 120,000+ Newsgroups ----= East and West-Coast Server Farms - Total Privacy via Encryption =---- |
On Fri, 01 Jul 2005 10:07:57 GMT, pyotr filipivich
wrote: Maybe people ought to consider making the spare parts before the machine breaks and they can't make those parts. You can do it in your "spare time". From the spare steel you just happen to have laying about. The question arises.."which" spare part? Taken to the logical extreme, one should have at least 1 spare and complete lathe, and then a spare lathe for the spare lathe, and a spare lathe for the spare lathe, for the lathe.... Gunner "Considering the events of recent years, the world has a long way to go to regain its credibility and reputation with the US." unknown |
On Sat, 02 Jul 2005 20:14:38 GMT, Gunner
wrote: The question arises.."which" spare part? Taken to the logical extreme, one should have at least 1 spare and complete lathe, and then a spare lathe for the spare lathe, and a spare lathe for the spare lathe, for the lathe.... This is why I use a 1978 Maytag dishwasher which has been totally rebuilt over the years, have the same unit from 1989 (purchased for $10 four years ago) as a spare, and most parts of another one ($1) in a box out in the shed. I also have the "Maytag Man's" home address in case I need parts on a Sunday morning. Gerry :-)} London, Canada |
Let the record show that Gunner wrote back on Sat,
02 Jul 2005 20:14:38 GMT in rec.crafts.metalworking : On Fri, 01 Jul 2005 10:07:57 GMT, pyotr filipivich wrote: Maybe people ought to consider making the spare parts before the machine breaks and they can't make those parts. You can do it in your "spare time". From the spare steel you just happen to have laying about. The question arises.."which" spare part? Taken to the logical extreme, one should have at least 1 spare and complete lathe, and then a spare lathe for the spare lathe, and a spare lathe for the spare lathe, for the lathe.... Yes, and your point...? :-) I'm sure as a machine broker, you would not mind providing these second machines, eh no? For a reasonable fee, it's not like I'm against people making a profit. All you need to do is figure out which parts are going to break first, and make the replacement part before they do. Then in your afternoons, you can figure out the economic forecasts and which stocks to buy or sell. Evenings you're free to do what you want. And in your spare time, no doubt you can figure out the answer tot he question: what do women want. On second thought, lets go back to figuring out which part is going to break first and making the replacement before it does. Gunner "Considering the events of recent years, the world has a long way to go to regain its credibility and reputation with the US." unknown -- pyotr filipivich. as an explaination for the decline in the US's tech edge, James Niccol wrote "It used to be that the USA was pretty good at producing stuff teenaged boys could lose a finger or two playing with." |
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