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My mechanic likes to use Castrol extended and change oil every 5000 miles. I have alway s used Pennzoil 10/30 and changed oil every 3000 miles. which one is right? Or both of us right? Whaddaya think guys?
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On 06/16/2019 07:31 AM, Terry Coombs wrote:
I also use Wix filters , best filter on the market IMO .


I use either NAPA Gold or Wix depending on where I buy the filter. I've
been told Wix makes the NAPA filter. My preference has a lot to do with
the threading. The base of Wix filters is punched and threaded into the
body of the filter and I find it easier to start than the brands that
are punched outward, if that makes any sense.


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On 06/16/2019 07:41 AM, Meanie wrote:
Today's engines are well designed to drive farther than the 3000 mile
change, especially if using synthetic blends. Though, you didn't provide
vehicle info, I'll guess it as within 10 years old and the 5000 mile
change will not hurt it, thus, the 3000 surely won't hurt either. You're
just spending more money. It is recommended to follow the manufacturers
guide in the manual.


I get the maintenance light every 5000 miles and change the oil then. I
was on vacation so I'm over this time but it will live.

It's a different animal but when a company I worked for went to Detroit
60 diesels they also started to do oil analysis. The protocol had been
12000 miles for oil and filters but it was lengthened to 20000. The shop
manager said they still weren't seeing significant degradation at 20000
but they needed to set some figure.


https://www.bobistheoilguy.com/engine-oil-analysis/

Some airport FBO's can send a sample to a lab or you can get a kit from
some places:

https://www.edmunds.com/car-maintena...lling-you.html







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wrote

My mechanic likes to use Castrol extended and change oil
every 5000 miles. I have alway s used Pennzoil 10/30 and
changed oil every 3000 miles. which one is right?


Neither depending on what sort of vehicle it is,
where you are and how you use that vehicle and
what the manufacturer recommends oil change
wise and how old the vehicle is.

Or both of us right? Whaddaya think guys?


I gave up thinking, it just makes my head hurt.
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On 6/16/2019 12:12 PM, rbowman wrote:
On 06/16/2019 07:31 AM, Terry Coombs wrote:
I also use Wix filters , best filter on the market IMO .


I use either NAPA Gold or Wix depending on where I buy the filter.
I've been told Wix makes the NAPA filter. My preference has a lot to
do with the threading. The base of Wix filters is punched and threaded
into the body of the filter and I find it easier to start than the
brands that are punched outward, if that makes any sense.


Â* Makes sense to me . In fact , Wix makes NAPA Gold filters . IIRC the
Wix number for your Evo (and some Shovelheads) is a 51215 , the NAPA
Gold is 1215 . Back around 1999 or so some guys on the XL-List cut up a
bunch of filters to see how they compared . Fram was the cheesiest with
the least and thinnest filtration medium . Wix won over all , and I
haven't used anything else since .

--
Snag
Yes , I'm old
and crochety - and armed .
Get outta my woods !

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On 6/16/2019 1:28 PM, rbowman wrote:
On 06/16/2019 07:41 AM, Meanie wrote:
Today's engines are well designed to drive farther than the 3000 mile
change, especially if using synthetic blends. Though, you didn't provide
vehicle info, I'll guess it as within 10 years old and the 5000 mile
change will not hurt it, thus, the 3000 surely won't hurt either. You're
just spending more money. It is recommended to follow the manufacturers
guide in the manual.


I get the maintenance light every 5000 miles and change the oil then. I
was on vacation so I'm over this time but it will live.

It's a different animal but when a company I worked for went to Detroit
60 diesels they also started to do oil analysis. The protocol had been
12000 miles for oil and filters but it was lengthened to 20000. The shop
manager said they still weren't seeing significant degradation at 20000
but they needed to set some figure.


https://www.bobistheoilguy.com/engine-oil-analysis/

Some airport FBO's can send a sample to a lab or you can get a kit from
some places:

https://www.edmunds.com/car-maintena...lling-you.html







I've heard/read similar stories about engine mileage being extended to
10,000 or more without issues. Many experts also note that the old 3000
mileage change habit is wasting money.


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On 6/16/2019 1:42 PM, Terry Coombs wrote:
On 6/16/2019 12:12 PM, rbowman wrote:
On 06/16/2019 07:31 AM, Terry Coombs wrote:
I also use Wix filters , best filter on the market IMO .


I use either NAPA Gold or Wix depending on where I buy the filter.
I've been told Wix makes the NAPA filter. My preference has a lot to
do with the threading. The base of Wix filters is punched and threaded
into the body of the filter and I find it easier to start than the
brands that are punched outward, if that makes any sense.


Â* Makes sense to me . In fact , Wix makes NAPA Gold filters . IIRC the
Wix number for your Evo (and some Shovelheads) is a 51215 , the NAPA
Gold is 1215 . Back around 1999 or so some guys on the XL-List cut up a
bunch of filters to see how they compared . Fram was the cheesiest with
the least and thinnest filtration medium . Wix won over all , and I
haven't used anything else since .


Throughout the years, I have often seen comparison videos of oil filters
and Fram continuously ends up at the bottom. Wix, Mobile 1, Bosch,
Purolater usually on top as well as a few others depending who's doing
the test and what model filter.
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On 6/16/2019 1:24 PM, Meanie wrote:
On 6/16/2019 1:42 PM, Terry Coombs wrote:
On 6/16/2019 12:12 PM, rbowman wrote:
On 06/16/2019 07:31 AM, Terry Coombs wrote:
I also use Wix filters , best filter on the market IMO .

I use either NAPA Gold or Wix depending on where I buy the filter.
I've been told Wix makes the NAPA filter. My preference has a lot to
do with the threading. The base of Wix filters is punched and
threaded into the body of the filter and I find it easier to start
than the brands that are punched outward, if that makes any sense.


Â*Â* Makes sense to me . In fact , Wix makes NAPA Gold filters . IIRC
the Wix number for your Evo (and some Shovelheads) is a 51215 , the
NAPA Gold is 1215 . Back around 1999 or so some guys on the XL-List
cut up a bunch of filters to see how they compared . Fram was the
cheesiest with the least and thinnest filtration medium . Wix won over
all , and I haven't used anything else since .


Throughout the years, I have often seen comparison videos of oil filters
and Fram continuously ends up at the bottom. Wix, Mobile 1, Bosch,
Purolater usually on top as well as a few others depending who's doing
the test and what model filter.


But have you ever seen any actual performance tests that indicate the
visual comparisons have any relevance to actual filtration performance
and resultant demonstrably better engine performance in terms of fewer
oil contamination or other failures even remotely that could be
demonstrated as owing to the filter?

--

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Default Lonely Psychopathic Senile Ozzie Troll Alert!

On Mon, 17 Jun 2019 03:40:29 +1000, cantankerous trolling geezer Rodent
Speed, the auto-contradicting senile sociopath, blabbered, again:


I gave up thinking, it just makes my head hurt.


Finally you make sense, senile asshole troll!

--
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"You on the other hand are a heavyweight bull****ter who demonstrates
your particular prowess at it every day."
MID:
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"Meanie" wrote in message ...
On 6/16/2019 1:28 PM, rbowman wrote:
On 06/16/2019 07:41 AM, Meanie wrote:
Today's engines are well designed to drive farther than the 3000 mile
change, especially if using synthetic blends. Though, you didn't provide
vehicle info, I'll guess it as within 10 years old and the 5000 mile
change will not hurt it, thus, the 3000 surely won't hurt either. You're
just spending more money. It is recommended to follow the manufacturers
guide in the manual.


I get the maintenance light every 5000 miles and change the oil then. I
was on vacation so I'm over this time but it will live.

It's a different animal but when a company I worked for went to Detroit
60 diesels they also started to do oil analysis. The protocol had been
12000 miles for oil and filters but it was lengthened to 20000. The shop
manager said they still weren't seeing significant degradation at 20000
but they needed to set some figure.


https://www.bobistheoilguy.com/engine-oil-analysis/

Some airport FBO's can send a sample to a lab or you can get a kit from
some places:

https://www.edmunds.com/car-maintena...lling-you.html


I've heard/read similar stories about engine mileage being extended to
10,000 or more without issues.


In fact 10K is the manufacturer recommendation with my Hyundai Getz.

Many experts also note that the old 3000 mileage change habit is wasting
money.


Corse it is.

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On Mon, 17 Jun 2019 04:48:16 +1000, cantankerous trolling geezer Rodent
Speed, the auto-contradicting senile sociopath, blabbered, again:


In fact 10K is the manufacturer recommendation with my Hyundai Getz.


Nobody was talking to you, you lonely senile pest!

--
Marland's answer to senile Rodent's statement, "I don't leak":
"That¢s because so much **** and ****e emanates from your gob that there is
nothing left to exit normally, your arsehole has clammed shut through disuse
and the end of prick is only clear because you are such a ******."
Message-ID:


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On Mon, 17 Jun 2019 04:48:16 +1000, "Rod Speed"
wrote:



"Meanie" wrote in message ...
On 6/16/2019 1:28 PM, rbowman wrote:
On 06/16/2019 07:41 AM, Meanie wrote:
Today's engines are well designed to drive farther than the 3000 mile
change, especially if using synthetic blends. Though, you didn't provide
vehicle info, I'll guess it as within 10 years old and the 5000 mile
change will not hurt it, thus, the 3000 surely won't hurt either. You're
just spending more money. It is recommended to follow the manufacturers
guide in the manual.

I get the maintenance light every 5000 miles and change the oil then. I
was on vacation so I'm over this time but it will live.

It's a different animal but when a company I worked for went to Detroit
60 diesels they also started to do oil analysis. The protocol had been
12000 miles for oil and filters but it was lengthened to 20000. The shop
manager said they still weren't seeing significant degradation at 20000
but they needed to set some figure.


https://www.bobistheoilguy.com/engine-oil-analysis/

Some airport FBO's can send a sample to a lab or you can get a kit from
some places:

https://www.edmunds.com/car-maintena...lling-you.html


I've heard/read similar stories about engine mileage being extended to
10,000 or more without issues.


In fact 10K is the manufacturer recommendation with my Hyundai Getz.


12,000 km / 7500 miles / 6 months per my Kia manual.
I usually go ~ 9000 km. ... it's time to add and the oil is
looking dirty.
With my several old Taurus 3 litre cars - I'd change the oil
a little earlier than the manual recommendation ~ 7000 km
and it would still look new - not darkened.
John T.

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On Sun, 16 Jun 2019 13:28:36 -0500, dpb wrote:

On 6/16/2019 1:24 PM, Meanie wrote:
On 6/16/2019 1:42 PM, Terry Coombs wrote:
On 6/16/2019 12:12 PM, rbowman wrote:
On 06/16/2019 07:31 AM, Terry Coombs wrote:
I also use Wix filters , best filter on the market IMO .

I use either NAPA Gold or Wix depending on where I buy the filter.
I've been told Wix makes the NAPA filter. My preference has a lot to
do with the threading. The base of Wix filters is punched and
threaded into the body of the filter and I find it easier to start
than the brands that are punched outward, if that makes any sense.


Â*Â* Makes sense to me . In fact , Wix makes NAPA Gold filters . IIRC
the Wix number for your Evo (and some Shovelheads) is a 51215 , the
NAPA Gold is 1215 . Back around 1999 or so some guys on the XL-List
cut up a bunch of filters to see how they compared . Fram was the
cheesiest with the least and thinnest filtration medium . Wix won over
all , and I haven't used anything else since .


Throughout the years, I have often seen comparison videos of oil filters
and Fram continuously ends up at the bottom. Wix, Mobile 1, Bosch,
Purolater usually on top as well as a few others depending who's doing
the test and what model filter.


But have you ever seen any actual performance tests that indicate the
visual comparisons have any relevance to actual filtration performance
and resultant demonstrably better engine performance in terms of fewer
oil contamination or other failures even remotely that could be
demonstrated as owing to the filter?


Oil related engine failures are so rare it would be hard to really
make any kind of comparison. I know people, mostly single mom types,
who never change their oil and they end up throwing the car away for
things other than an engine failure. The oil looks like tar but it
still seems to be working.
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On 6/16/2019 2:28 PM, dpb wrote:
On 6/16/2019 1:24 PM, Meanie wrote:
On 6/16/2019 1:42 PM, Terry Coombs wrote:
On 6/16/2019 12:12 PM, rbowman wrote:
On 06/16/2019 07:31 AM, Terry Coombs wrote:
I also use Wix filters , best filter on the market IMO .

I use either NAPA Gold or Wix depending on where I buy the filter.
I've been told Wix makes the NAPA filter. My preference has a lot to
do with the threading. The base of Wix filters is punched and
threaded into the body of the filter and I find it easier to start
than the brands that are punched outward, if that makes any sense.


Â*Â* Makes sense to me . In fact , Wix makes NAPA Gold filters . IIRC
the Wix number for your Evo (and some Shovelheads) is a 51215 , the
NAPA Gold is 1215 . Back around 1999 or so some guys on the XL-List
cut up a bunch of filters to see how they compared . Fram was the
cheesiest with the least and thinnest filtration medium . Wix won
over all , and I haven't used anything else since .


Throughout the years, I have often seen comparison videos of oil
filters and Fram continuously ends up at the bottom. Wix, Mobile 1,
Bosch, Purolater usually on top as well as a few others depending
who's doing the test and what model filter.


But have you ever seen any actual performance tests that indicate the
visual comparisons have any relevance to actual filtration performance
and resultant demonstrably better engine performance in terms of fewer
oil contamination or other failures even remotely that could be
demonstrated as owing to the filter?

--


None and I highly doubt a filter will cause major damage to an engine.
The exception is installing the wrong size filter and it comes off while
driving, thus, all oil poured out and the engine seized. Yes, I know
someone who had it happen.
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On 6/16/2019 1:24 PM, Meanie wrote:
On 6/16/2019 1:42 PM, Terry Coombs wrote:
On 6/16/2019 12:12 PM, rbowman wrote:
On 06/16/2019 07:31 AM, Terry Coombs wrote:
I also use Wix filters , best filter on the market IMO .

I use either NAPA Gold or Wix depending on where I buy the filter.
I've been told Wix makes the NAPA filter. My preference has a lot to
do with the threading. The base of Wix filters is punched and
threaded into the body of the filter and I find it easier to start
than the brands that are punched outward, if that makes any sense.


Â*Â* Makes sense to me . In fact , Wix makes NAPA Gold filters . IIRC
the Wix number for your Evo (and some Shovelheads) is a 51215 , the
NAPA Gold is 1215 . Back around 1999 or so some guys on the XL-List
cut up a bunch of filters to see how they compared . Fram was the
cheesiest with the least and thinnest filtration medium . Wix won
over all , and I haven't used anything else since .


Throughout the years, I have often seen comparison videos of oil
filters and Fram continuously ends up at the bottom. Wix, Mobile 1,
Bosch, Purolater usually on top as well as a few others depending
who's doing the test and what model filter.


Â* Well , I can't think of a less biased group than a bunch of Harley
riders - virtually all of them/us wrench on our own bikes - deciding
"what's best for my ride" ...

--
Snag
Yes , I'm old
and crochety - and armed .
Get outta my woods !

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On Sun, 16 Jun 2019 10:56:22 -0400, Ralph Mowery
wrote:

In article ,
says...

My mechanic likes to use Castrol extended and change oil every 5000 miles. I have alway s used Pennzoil 10/30 and changed oil every 3000 miles. which one is right? Or both of us right? Whaddaya think guys?



Follow the makers recommendations. I had a 1990 Camery and I think the
change was at 7500 miles. With the way I drive (mostly to work 15miles
each way) I put close to enough miles on the car I changed it twice a
year. Once at the anual state inspection and once 6 months later. Put
190,000 miles on it before getting a new car. Had no engine problems.

If you live in an area with dirt roads, drive only a mile or two each
time, or put the car to hard use , then the 3000 might be ok, but for
normal use I would go to atleast 5000 and maybe more if the manual says
so.

I don't put many miles on the cars now,so it is once a year when I get
it inspected that I have the oil and filter changed. I only had 3500 on
one car last year but had it serviced and oil changed.

My recommendation to my customers when Iwas in the business was to
follow the "severe service" schedule as better than90% of noth
american driving meets 1 or more of the conditions called out for
severe service.
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On Sun, 16 Jun 2019 11:28:26 -0600, rbowman
wrote:

On 06/16/2019 07:41 AM, Meanie wrote:
Today's engines are well designed to drive farther than the 3000 mile
change, especially if using synthetic blends. Though, you didn't provide
vehicle info, I'll guess it as within 10 years old and the 5000 mile
change will not hurt it, thus, the 3000 surely won't hurt either. You're
just spending more money. It is recommended to follow the manufacturers
guide in the manual.


I get the maintenance light every 5000 miles and change the oil then. I
was on vacation so I'm over this time but it will live.

It's a different animal but when a company I worked for went to Detroit
60 diesels they also started to do oil analysis. The protocol had been
12000 miles for oil and filters but it was lengthened to 20000. The shop
manager said they still weren't seeing significant degradation at 20000
but they needed to set some figure.


https://www.bobistheoilguy.com/engine-oil-analysis/

Some airport FBO's can send a sample to a lab or you can get a kit from
some places:

https://www.edmunds.com/car-maintena...lling-you.html



A single oil analysis means NOTHING. You need to do them at regular
intervals to determine trends. When does metal contamination start to
accellerate? What about acid levels?. As soon as you find out where
the metal contaminatio nstarts you know the oil SHOULD have been
changed earlier. Same with the acids, and other "bad" stuff.

Once you have the trends you adjust your changes accordingly and
reduce your monitoring to the later stages.


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On Sun, 16 Jun 2019 14:17:43 -0400, Meanie wrote:

On 6/16/2019 1:28 PM, rbowman wrote:
On 06/16/2019 07:41 AM, Meanie wrote:
Today's engines are well designed to drive farther than the 3000 mile
change, especially if using synthetic blends. Though, you didn't provide
vehicle info, I'll guess it as within 10 years old and the 5000 mile
change will not hurt it, thus, the 3000 surely won't hurt either. You're
just spending more money. It is recommended to follow the manufacturers
guide in the manual.


I get the maintenance light every 5000 miles and change the oil then. I
was on vacation so I'm over this time but it will live.

It's a different animal but when a company I worked for went to Detroit
60 diesels they also started to do oil analysis. The protocol had been
12000 miles for oil and filters but it was lengthened to 20000. The shop
manager said they still weren't seeing significant degradation at 20000
but they needed to set some figure.


https://www.bobistheoilguy.com/engine-oil-analysis/

Some airport FBO's can send a sample to a lab or you can get a kit from
some places:

https://www.edmunds.com/car-maintena...lling-you.html







I've heard/read similar stories about engine mileage being extended to
10,000 or more without issues. Many experts also note that the old 3000
mileage change habit is wasting money.

Not nearly as muchas going 10000 when you SHOULD have changed it at
3 - and you end up replacing or rebuilding an engine -- - -

Gasoline and oil are the 2 cheapest things you will put into your
engine - - - - - -
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wrote in message
...
On Mon, 17 Jun 2019 04:48:16 +1000, "Rod Speed"
wrote:



"Meanie" wrote in message
...
On 6/16/2019 1:28 PM, rbowman wrote:
On 06/16/2019 07:41 AM, Meanie wrote:
Today's engines are well designed to drive farther than the 3000 mile
change, especially if using synthetic blends. Though, you didn't
provide
vehicle info, I'll guess it as within 10 years old and the 5000 mile
change will not hurt it, thus, the 3000 surely won't hurt either.
You're
just spending more money. It is recommended to follow the
manufacturers
guide in the manual.

I get the maintenance light every 5000 miles and change the oil then. I
was on vacation so I'm over this time but it will live.

It's a different animal but when a company I worked for went to Detroit
60 diesels they also started to do oil analysis. The protocol had been
12000 miles for oil and filters but it was lengthened to 20000. The
shop
manager said they still weren't seeing significant degradation at 20000
but they needed to set some figure.


https://www.bobistheoilguy.com/engine-oil-analysis/

Some airport FBO's can send a sample to a lab or you can get a kit from
some places:

https://www.edmunds.com/car-maintena...lling-you.html


I've heard/read similar stories about engine mileage being extended to
10,000 or more without issues.


In fact 10K is the manufacturer recommendation with my Hyundai Getz.


12,000 km / 7500 miles / 6 months per my Kia manual.
I usually go ~ 9000 km. ... it's time to add and the oil is
looking dirty.


I didn't bother for 30K

With my several old Taurus 3 litre cars - I'd change the oil
a little earlier than the manual recommendation ~ 7000 km
and it would still look new - not darkened.


With my 73 Golf, I never bothered to change it at all in 45 years.



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On Sun, 16 Jun 2019 13:28:36 -0500, dpb wrote:

On 6/16/2019 1:24 PM, Meanie wrote:
On 6/16/2019 1:42 PM, Terry Coombs wrote:
On 6/16/2019 12:12 PM, rbowman wrote:
On 06/16/2019 07:31 AM, Terry Coombs wrote:
I also use Wix filters , best filter on the market IMO .

I use either NAPA Gold or Wix depending on where I buy the filter.
I've been told Wix makes the NAPA filter. My preference has a lot to
do with the threading. The base of Wix filters is punched and
threaded into the body of the filter and I find it easier to start
than the brands that are punched outward, if that makes any sense.


** Makes sense to me . In fact , Wix makes NAPA Gold filters . IIRC
the Wix number for your Evo (and some Shovelheads) is a 51215 , the
NAPA Gold is 1215 . Back around 1999 or so some guys on the XL-List
cut up a bunch of filters to see how they compared . Fram was the
cheesiest with the least and thinnest filtration medium . Wix won over
all , and I haven't used anything else since .


Throughout the years, I have often seen comparison videos of oil filters
and Fram continuously ends up at the bottom. Wix, Mobile 1, Bosch,
Purolater usually on top as well as a few others depending who's doing
the test and what model filter.


But have you ever seen any actual performance tests that indicate the
visual comparisons have any relevance to actual filtration performance
and resultant demonstrably better engine performance in terms of fewer
oil contamination or other failures even remotely that could be
demonstrated as owing to the filter?

The only REAL problem with some filters is the filtration media
"splits" or comes loose from the endcaps - or drainback valves leak or
come apart - or cans leak - or the "base gaskets" don't properly seal
against the mount so they ALWAYS leak.

There ARE better quality filters than the base fram orange can
filters - the extraguard and synthetic Fram's being 2 of several.

There may be getter filters available than a WIX - but not many
applications where the "better" filter would have any effect under
normal use.

I'm going back to using Frams on my 13 year old Ranger with 368000km
on it - with synthetic oil changed twice a year. The oil AND filter
are still "clean" at these intervals (works out to about 6000km per
change) so why do I need anything "better"??
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wrote in message
...
On Sun, 16 Jun 2019 13:28:36 -0500, dpb wrote:

On 6/16/2019 1:24 PM, Meanie wrote:
On 6/16/2019 1:42 PM, Terry Coombs wrote:
On 6/16/2019 12:12 PM, rbowman wrote:
On 06/16/2019 07:31 AM, Terry Coombs wrote:
I also use Wix filters , best filter on the market IMO .

I use either NAPA Gold or Wix depending on where I buy the filter.
I've been told Wix makes the NAPA filter. My preference has a lot to
do with the threading. The base of Wix filters is punched and
threaded into the body of the filter and I find it easier to start
than the brands that are punched outward, if that makes any sense.


Makes sense to me . In fact , Wix makes NAPA Gold filters . IIRC
the Wix number for your Evo (and some Shovelheads) is a 51215 , the
NAPA Gold is 1215 . Back around 1999 or so some guys on the XL-List
cut up a bunch of filters to see how they compared . Fram was the
cheesiest with the least and thinnest filtration medium . Wix won over
all , and I haven't used anything else since .


Throughout the years, I have often seen comparison videos of oil filters
and Fram continuously ends up at the bottom. Wix, Mobile 1, Bosch,
Purolater usually on top as well as a few others depending who's doing
the test and what model filter.


But have you ever seen any actual performance tests that indicate the
visual comparisons have any relevance to actual filtration performance
and resultant demonstrably better engine performance in terms of fewer
oil contamination or other failures even remotely that could be
demonstrated as owing to the filter?


Oil related engine failures are so rare it would
be hard to really make any kind of comparison.


Yeah, the mechanic who did the rego check did say that
someone had blown up their Getz engine that way but it
wasnt clear if that was just running out of oil completely.

I did find mine had an odd clicking noise at idle at 3OK with
no oil or filter change that went away with an oil and filter
change. Didnt bother to check if it was the oil or the filter.

I know people, mostly single mom types, who never change
their oil and they end up throwing the car away for things
other than an engine failure.


I did that with my 73 Golf. Still have it but stopped using it
when the known windscreen leak produced a rusted floor
that meant it could no longer be registered and I couldnt
be arsed fixing it after 45 years.

The oil looks like tar


Mine didnt, but the Golf did use some oil.

but it still seems to be working.


Yeah, mine was working fine, no smoky exhaust or anything.

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On Sunday, June 16, 2019 at 2:28:41 PM UTC-4, dpb wrote:
On 6/16/2019 1:24 PM, Meanie wrote:
On 6/16/2019 1:42 PM, Terry Coombs wrote:
On 6/16/2019 12:12 PM, rbowman wrote:
On 06/16/2019 07:31 AM, Terry Coombs wrote:
I also use Wix filters , best filter on the market IMO .

I use either NAPA Gold or Wix depending on where I buy the filter.
I've been told Wix makes the NAPA filter. My preference has a lot to
do with the threading. The base of Wix filters is punched and
threaded into the body of the filter and I find it easier to start
than the brands that are punched outward, if that makes any sense.


Â*Â* Makes sense to me . In fact , Wix makes NAPA Gold filters . IIRC
the Wix number for your Evo (and some Shovelheads) is a 51215 , the
NAPA Gold is 1215 . Back around 1999 or so some guys on the XL-List
cut up a bunch of filters to see how they compared . Fram was the
cheesiest with the least and thinnest filtration medium . Wix won over
all , and I haven't used anything else since .


Throughout the years, I have often seen comparison videos of oil filters
and Fram continuously ends up at the bottom. Wix, Mobile 1, Bosch,
Purolater usually on top as well as a few others depending who's doing
the test and what model filter.


But have you ever seen any actual performance tests that indicate the
visual comparisons have any relevance to actual filtration performance
and resultant demonstrably better engine performance in terms of fewer
oil contamination or other failures even remotely that could be
demonstrated as owing to the filter?

--


Same question as to changing oil at 3,000 vs 5,000. I didn't think any
new cars were less than 5K today. I'd like to see any studies that show
3K vs 5K or similar has any real effect on any engine problems in the
typical life of a car. Meaning, if you have a car, change the oil every
5K, get rid of it at 150K is there any evidence that a failure occurred
that would not have if you changed it at 3K? Or even if you keep the
car to 250K, does it really make a difference or is it just money down
the train to change it more often?


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On 6/16/2019 5:06 PM, trader_4 wrote:
On Sunday, June 16, 2019 at 2:28:41 PM UTC-4, dpb wrote:
On 6/16/2019 1:24 PM, Meanie wrote:
On 6/16/2019 1:42 PM, Terry Coombs wrote:
On 6/16/2019 12:12 PM, rbowman wrote:
On 06/16/2019 07:31 AM, Terry Coombs wrote:
I also use Wix filters , best filter on the market IMO .

I use either NAPA Gold or Wix depending on where I buy the filter.
I've been told Wix makes the NAPA filter. My preference has a lot to
do with the threading. The base of Wix filters is punched and
threaded into the body of the filter and I find it easier to start
than the brands that are punched outward, if that makes any sense.


Â*Â* Makes sense to me . In fact , Wix makes NAPA Gold filters . IIRC
the Wix number for your Evo (and some Shovelheads) is a 51215 , the
NAPA Gold is 1215 . Back around 1999 or so some guys on the XL-List
cut up a bunch of filters to see how they compared . Fram was the
cheesiest with the least and thinnest filtration medium . Wix won over
all , and I haven't used anything else since .


Throughout the years, I have often seen comparison videos of oil filters
and Fram continuously ends up at the bottom. Wix, Mobile 1, Bosch,
Purolater usually on top as well as a few others depending who's doing
the test and what model filter.


But have you ever seen any actual performance tests that indicate the
visual comparisons have any relevance to actual filtration performance
and resultant demonstrably better engine performance in terms of fewer
oil contamination or other failures even remotely that could be
demonstrated as owing to the filter?

--


Same question as to changing oil at 3,000 vs 5,000. I didn't think any
new cars were less than 5K today. I'd like to see any studies that show
3K vs 5K or similar has any real effect on any engine problems in the
typical life of a car. Meaning, if you have a car, change the oil every
5K, get rid of it at 150K is there any evidence that a failure occurred
that would not have if you changed it at 3K? Or even if you keep the
car to 250K, does it really make a difference or is it just money down
the train to change it more often?


My car is 7500 miles for normal driving. The warranty is for 100,000
miles. They would not offer the warranty if they did not think it would
make it that far.

I imagine testing of some sort was done to conclude that

https://www.roadandtrack.com/car-cul...st-that-claim/



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"Clare Snyder" wrote in message
...
On Sun, 16 Jun 2019 14:17:43 -0400, Meanie wrote:

On 6/16/2019 1:28 PM, rbowman wrote:
On 06/16/2019 07:41 AM, Meanie wrote:
Today's engines are well designed to drive farther than the 3000 mile
change, especially if using synthetic blends. Though, you didn't
provide
vehicle info, I'll guess it as within 10 years old and the 5000 mile
change will not hurt it, thus, the 3000 surely won't hurt either.
You're
just spending more money. It is recommended to follow the manufacturers
guide in the manual.

I get the maintenance light every 5000 miles and change the oil then. I
was on vacation so I'm over this time but it will live.

It's a different animal but when a company I worked for went to Detroit
60 diesels they also started to do oil analysis. The protocol had been
12000 miles for oil and filters but it was lengthened to 20000. The shop
manager said they still weren't seeing significant degradation at 20000
but they needed to set some figure.


https://www.bobistheoilguy.com/engine-oil-analysis/

Some airport FBO's can send a sample to a lab or you can get a kit from
some places:

https://www.edmunds.com/car-maintena...lling-you.html







I've heard/read similar stories about engine mileage being extended to
10,000 or more without issues. Many experts also note that the old 3000
mileage change habit is wasting money.

Not nearly as muchas going 10000 when you SHOULD have changed it at
3 - and you end up replacing or rebuilding an engine -- - -

Gasoline and oil are the 2 cheapest things you will put into your
engine - - - - - -


Not with modern engines that require nothing else before you replace the car
for other reasons.

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Default Lonely Psychopathic Senile Ozzie Troll Alert!

On Mon, 17 Jun 2019 06:59:23 +1000, cantankerous trolling geezer Rodent
Speed, the auto-contradicting senile sociopath, blabbered, again:


Yeah, mine was working fine, no smoky exhaust or anything.


Better than your senile brain, senile Rodent? You know, as it keeps
producing ONLY ****!

--
The Natural Philosopher about senile Rot:
"Rod speed is not a Brexiteer. He is an Australian troll and arsehole."
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Default Lonely Psychopathic Senile Ozzie Troll Alert!

On Mon, 17 Jun 2019 06:52:59 +1000, cantankerous trolling geezer Rodent
Speed, the auto-contradicting senile sociopath, blabbered, again:


With my 73 Golf,


You can shove THAT one up your arse, too, senile Rodent!

--
Richard addressing Rot Speed:
"**** you're thick/pathetic excuse for a troll."
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On 06/16/2019 02:50 PM, Clare Snyder wrote:
Gasoline and oil are the 2 cheapest things you will put into your
engine - - - - - -


That's been my theory.
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